A fun relatively simple project to make is a chessboard. Like most things, there are several ways that you can tackle a project like this. For this one, we’re going to make and end-grain chessboard, which gives us a little more direction in what this process will look like.
Above we can see our final dimensions and what it will look like when we’re finished.
Needed Tools
- Table Saw
- Crosscut Sled
- Miter Saw (optional)
- Router with Rabbet Bit
- Biscuit Joiner
- Sander
- Router Table (optional)
For this board, we are going to use Walnut and Oak for the checkerboard pattern. You could use other wood as long as there is enough contrast between the two. Let’s start with 4- Walnut boards at 2″x 2″x 12″, 4- White Oak boards at 2″ x 2″ x 12″ (you may have to get other sizes and combine/cut them down to these dimensions). We will also need some more White Oak for the perimeter of the board, and a small amount Cherry wood for an inlay.
Here’s a more detailed parts list:
Material | Qty | Dimensions / Info |
---|---|---|
White Oak | 4 | 2" x 2" x 12" |
Walnut | 4 | 2" x 2" x 12" |
White Oak | 4 | 1.5" x 1" x 20" |
Cherry | 4 | 0.25" x 0.5" x 20" |
Pack of #0 Joining Biscuits | 1 pack (will use 8) | #0 size |
Rubber Feet (with screws) | 4 | 1" wide x 1/2" tall |
Wood Glue | 1 Bottle | N/A |
Preferred Coating / Finish | 1 | Enough to cover 2 square feet |
We’ll start with the main part of the board. Get your 2″ x 2″ x 12″ Oak and Walnut boards together and follow the instructions below.
Next, we will assemble the Oak perimeter of the Chess Board.
Once everything is dry, then it’s time to work on the inlay. Cut all 4 pieces of Cherry wood with opposing 45-degree angles as we did with the Oak pieces for the perimeter. If the pieces seem too small for your crosscut sled or miter saw, a small hand saw and miter box would work well here also. Again you will end up with a long side and a short side like we did the Oak pieces. Cut it so that the long side measures 16.5 in and the short side 15.5 in.
After everything is cut add some glue to the rabbeted areas, and insert the inlay.
Once everything is completely dry you may want to sand the outer edges or even use your router to chamfer or round-over them. Clean the board of all dust and apply your favorite finish. All that’s left after that is to screw the feet onto the bottom of the board. I chose to put the center of the feet one inch from the edges.