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RICK, WAS READING YOUR VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE ON THE BRIGGS AND STRATTON VALVE ADJUSTMENT FOR THE 17.5 HP OHV
Mechanic's Assistant chat
Customer: HEY RICK, WAS READING YOUR VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE ON THE BRIGGS AND STRATTON VALVE ADJUSTMENT FOR THE 17.5 HP OHV ENGINE. VERY NICE. NOW HERE IS AN INTERESTING QUESTION FOR YOU. I HAD TO REPLACE ONE OF ADJUSTING NUTS SO I DID BOTH AS DESIGN HAD CHANGED. TOOK BOTH ROCKERS OFF AND A METAL CAP FELL OUT THAT GOES ON THE END OF VAVLE STEM. IT FITS BOTH BUT THERE IS ONLY ONE. DOES IT GO ON TOP OR BOTTOM? OR SHOULD THERE BE 2?
Answered by Rick in 10 mins 12 years ago
Outdoor Power Equipment technical trainer since 1990, covering eight states.
4,512 satisfied customers
Specialities include: Small Engine
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Hello, and thank you for choosing JustAnswer. I'll be helping you today and am committed to providing clear and concise answers to your question.
Does it have rubber in the center? If so, that sounds like the intake valve seal. Does it look like the item pictured below?
Does it have rubber in the center? If so, that sounds like the intake valve seal. Does it look like the item pictured below?
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Customer
IT IS ALL METAL, FLAT ON THE SIDE TOUCHING THE ROCKER ARM, ROUGHLY 3/16" HIGH BY 1/4 " AROUND. IT ACTUALLY WILL SNAP ON THE ROUND END OF THE VALVE STEM, IT SNAPS PERFECTLY ON BOTH STEMS BUT I DO NOT KNOW WHICH VALVE IT CAME OFF. IT ALMOST SEEMS THAT IF THERE IS JUST ONE OF THESE THAT IT IS MADE TO OFFSET THE GAP TO A GREATER DISTANCE ON ONE OF THE VALVES. DOES THAT MAKE SENSE?
I'm a bit baffled on this one. If it snaps onto the valve stem, it should be the keeper, but that would be more than a 1/4". Here's a pic of how the head parts should look. Can you perhaps post a picture of what you have?
Customer
WELL, IT'S ALMOST MIDNIGHT HERE. I PUT THE CAP ON THE TOP VALVE WHICH I THINK IS THE INTAKE VALVE? IS THAT CORRECT....TOP = INTAKE? I WOULD HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE IT, TAKE THE PICTURES WHICH IS NO PROBLEM. HOW DO I POST THEM WHEN I HAVE THEM AND WOULD SAY SOME TIME IN THE MORNING BE OK? ACTUALLY I DO NOT SEE IT IN THE PICTURE SO I AM AS BAFFLED AND CURIOUS AS YOU ARE.
Morning would be quite fine. In the box where you are typing your question you'll see an icon that looks like a paperclip. that will allow you to post a picture up to 1 meg in size.
Intake is the lower valve so it stays cooler in Brigg's inverted port design engines (heat rises). Also it will have the aluminum push rod. The upper exhaust valve takes the steel push rod. Sine they're the same length it's easy to get them switched.
Intake is the lower valve so it stays cooler in Brigg's inverted port design engines (heat rises). Also it will have the aluminum push rod. The upper exhaust valve takes the steel push rod. Sine they're the same length it's easy to get them switched.
Customer
I TAKE MY HAT OFF TO YOU, YOU JUST ANSWERED MY NEXT QUESTION BECAUSE I DID TAKE THE PUSH RODS OUT AND CLEAN THEM OFF, THEN I NOTICED THE WEIGHT DIFFERENCE, NICE JOB... I WILL CONTACT YOU IN THE MORNING. WHAT IS GOOD TIME FOR YOU, I AM IN S.C. HOME OF HUMIDITY AND MOSQUITOES AND DO I COME ON TO THIS SITE OR JUST RESPOND TO ONE OF THE EMAILS?
You can do either. Both will still get your message to me. I'm on the west coast, so you'll probably be up and at 'em a bit earlier than me, but I'll respond as soon as I come online if that's okay with you.
I used to go to SC about once a year to a town called Orangeburg where Husqvarana/Poulan has a facility. Gotta say I fell in love with Charleston when I visited. You've got a great state. Have a good night...
I used to go to SC about once a year to a town called Orangeburg where Husqvarana/Poulan has a facility. Gotta say I fell in love with Charleston when I visited. You've got a great state. Have a good night...
Customer
THANKS RICK, I WILL HIT YOU UP AROUND 1PM MY TIME. YES, THE STATE IS PRETTY AWESOME. I AM VERY FAMILIAR WITH ORANGEBURG, I LIVE IN SUMMERVILLE. CHAT WITH YOU TOMORROW AND GOOD NIGHT TO YOU.
Take care. I'm going to post this and please don't respond. It's not to be rude, but this way since I've responded to your last post, it'll reset the website's system so I get an alert once you respond back tomorrow and I can't miss it. Rest easy...
Customer
Customer
Rick, I have 4 more pictures of this, I have it with the rockers off, then the showing the valves with the mystery piece off, then 2 views of it up against a ruler.
This the one?
Customer
THAT'S THE ONE BUDDY....
Valve cap. Not all engines use them. Question is whether one or two? And which valve? I'm thinking there's only one and it goes on the exhaust. Give me a few minutes to dig and verify, though. I don't want to think, I want to be certain...
Customer
THANKS RICK, ONE OTHER THING AND I'M AFRAID OF THE ANSWER ON THIS ONE. WHEN I TOOK THE VALVE COVER OFF I WAS EXPECTING OIL AS USUAL. I GOT A FLOOD OF GAS MIXED IN THE OIL. I CHECKED THE DIP STICK AND THE STICK SMELLS LIKE GAS AND THE LEVEL IS HIGHER THAN THE FULL MARK INDICATING GAS IN THE CASE OIL AS WELL. WHATS YOUR OPINION ON THAT? I WAS ROTATING THE ENGINE CCW WHEN I WAS TRYING TO START IT TO GET THE COMPRESSION OFF. DON'T KNOW, I THINK I WILL LET YOU DECIDE THAT ONE.
Customer
DID YOU GET MY LAST ON THE GAS IN THE OIL?
Looks like one one the exhaust valve is the way to go.
As far as the gas in the oil. Check the needle and seat in the carburetor. If it's damaged, fuel will weep past the cylinder into the sump while it's sitting, which is the usual reason for this symptom. Replace the needle and seat if they're not sealing. Also check the float by removing and shaking it. If you hear gas sloshing inside, the float is leaking and will need to be replaced as well. Since you're in this far, I'd so a bit of spray cleaning of all carburetor jets and passages.
Take out the plug and turn the engine over a few times to clear the cylinder. Then check the air filter. If there's oil contamination, change the air filter and clean the air filter box and breather system as well as you can. Change the oil and oil filter if equipped and you should be back in good shape. This type of problem rarely causes any engine damage.
Let me know if this doesn't fully solve it and we'll continue. This isn't the answer to this issue all the time, but about 80% of the time it's the correct fix.
As far as the gas in the oil. Check the needle and seat in the carburetor. If it's damaged, fuel will weep past the cylinder into the sump while it's sitting, which is the usual reason for this symptom. Replace the needle and seat if they're not sealing. Also check the float by removing and shaking it. If you hear gas sloshing inside, the float is leaking and will need to be replaced as well. Since you're in this far, I'd so a bit of spray cleaning of all carburetor jets and passages.
Take out the plug and turn the engine over a few times to clear the cylinder. Then check the air filter. If there's oil contamination, change the air filter and clean the air filter box and breather system as well as you can. Change the oil and oil filter if equipped and you should be back in good shape. This type of problem rarely causes any engine damage.
Let me know if this doesn't fully solve it and we'll continue. This isn't the answer to this issue all the time, but about 80% of the time it's the correct fix.
Customer
THANKS RICK, I WILL DO ALL THAT, NOW JUST TO REVIEW MY STEPS HERE...PUT THE CAP ON THE EXHAUST VALVE. REMOVE PLUG AND DROP PISTON DOWN 1/4" FROM TDC ENSURING IT IS ON THE STROKE WHERE BOTH VALVES ARE CLOSED. THE TOP VALVE IS THE EXHAUST, GETS THE METAL PUSH ROD AND BOTTOM IS INTAKE WITH THE ALUMINUM PUSH ROD. DO EVERYTHING YOU SAID TO THE CARB ETC, WHAT GAP DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR INTAKE/EXHAUST, I AM THINKING .003 INTAKE AND .005 EXHAUST. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
All of that sounds exactly correct. But shoot for .004" intake and .006" exhaust. It's actually .003"-.005" intake and .005"-.007" exhaust, but the middle ground gives you breathing space since everyone's feel of the proper drag on the feeler gauge is a wee bit different. Shooting for the middle gives you a bit of wiggle room in case you go a little tighter than the Briggs engineer who determined the spec....
Customer
ONE OTHER THING THAT BUGS ME. I DO NOT SEE A VALVE CAP LISTED AS A PART FOR THIS ENGINE AT BRIGGS.... BUT I DO SEE THAT THE EXHAUST VALVE HAS ONE MORE PART SHOWN IN THE BLOCK THAN THE INTAKE DOES. IS THAT THE CAP? WHAT DO YOU THINK WOULD HAPPEN IF I DID NOT USE IT? JUST STRIKES ME ODD THAT ONE HAS IT THE OTHER DOES NOT.
Customer
RICK, DID YOU GET MY LAST ON LEAVING THE VALVE CAP OUT?
Sorry. Missed your reply before I signed off for the night. Here's the item as shown on the parts list. It is rather odd. And I know of no other engines that even use it. My best hunch is the engineer used it as a safeguard against the keyhole-style valve keeper shifting due to the greater heat expansion on the exhaust side. I cannot suggest leaving it out, since it was put there for a reason. Manufacturers these days are always looking to cheapen instead of increase the price on products, so an engineer had to have good financial justification for including it.
Rick41018.7161023495
Rick41018.7161023495Customer
Good morning Rick, I did not notice that little devil on the schematic, thanks for pointing it out. Your right, it is there for a reason. Just wanted to thank you for all your help and if I need some later I will look you up. Brian.
Brian,
It's been a pleasure. May the Lord bless all your hands touch...
Rick
It's been a pleasure. May the Lord bless all your hands touch...
Rick
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