It was 1986 when Matt's El Rancho opened at its new location on South Lamar in Austin that I savored their wonderful food for the very first time. Surrounded by a sea of people waiting to be seated, we were greeted warmly by Matt, Sr. with his gracious smile and sincere welcome. When we finally got a table and ordered our food, the Chile Rellenos were to die for! Since leaving Austin a decade later--having made countless trips to Matt's through the years for a Mexican food "fix"--the challenge became bringing Matt's El Rancho to our own dinner table.
Thankfully, Matt Martinez, Jr. (Little Matt), has generously extended to homesick Texas expatriates, and to the world, the wonderful gift of his family's culinary heritage through his series of cookbooks. Mex Tex: Traditional Tex-Mex Taste is the latest and by far the best contribution of all. Unlike Matt's earlier efforts, Mex Tex is a rich and colorful tapestry of wonderful photographs that immediately transport the reader to the restaurant. It makes for an absolutely delightful dining-with-the-eyes experience. For those who've eaten often at Matt's, and treasure this family's vital contribution to "making Austin, Austin," the journey is enhanced greatly by many older photos and Matt's personal accounts, most notably the origin of "Bob Armstrong Dip."
While Matt's delightful array of recipes is absolutely wonderful, and quite accessible to virtually anyone with cooking experience, the larger contribution of Mex Tex should not be overlooked. Beginning with his first book, Matt Martinez's Culinary Frontier appearing ten years ago; to, Matt Makes a Run for the Border: Recipes and Tales from a Tex-Mex Chef; to Mex Tex, Matt Martinez, Jr. is clearly concerned to establish for all time the legitimacy of Mexican food made by himself and many generations of Tejanos (Texans of Mexican descent) as being "authentic" in every sense of the word.
This formidable challenge emerged in 1972 with the appearance of Diana Kennedy's, The Cuisines of Mexico. On the one hand, Kennedy did a good job of exploring much of the culinary picture and meaning and recipes of "Mexican food" as it exists in great variety within Mexico proper. Sadly, Kennedy, followed by legions of her admirers, has also been a mouthpiece of misinformation and misunderstanding regarding Mexican food as it has long been prepared by Texas Mexicans. Kennedy sought to convince the world (and with considerable success) that the Rio Grande River exerts a kind of magical demarcation, with the foods made south of it qualifying as "authentic," while food made to the north of it--tacos, burritos, enchiladas, etc.--as somehow counterfeit. The most obvious result of these misguided efforts was the emergence of the term, "Tex-Mex"--perceived initially (and accurately) as nothing less than a slur, as though Tejanos were unworthy of their own noble ethnic heritage.
To his great credit, Matt Martinez, Jr. responded to this indignity, not with rancor and invective (at least not in print!), but by following Kennedy's lead in publishing cookbooks, in order to set the record straight. Without apology, Matt embraces the necessity of "Tex-Mex" by turning it into MEX TEX, so as to awaken the reader to the actual truth of the matter: Mexican Texas food, while differing in many respects from the "cuisines of Mexico," is genuine--and delicious!--in its own right. The proof (if such is necessary) is that "authentic" Texas-style Mexican food has never been more popular.
Unfortunately, it has been years since I have dined at Matt's El Rancho on South Lamar. And yet, because of his wonderful cookbooks--the best being Mex Tex--Matt Martinez, Jr. makes it possible for us to get our "Mexican Food fix" with great regularity. It is a cookbook no Mexican food junky should be without.
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