Indigenous fashion of the Americas: Difference between revisions
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'''Indigenous fashion of the Americas''' is the [[Fashion design|design]] and creation of high-fashion [[clothing]] and [[fashion accessories]] by Native Americans. Indigenous designers frequently incorporate [[Motif (visual arts)|motifs]] and customary materials into their wearable artworks, providing a basis for creating items for the ''[[haute couture]]'' and international fashion markets. Their designs may result from techniques such as [[beadwork]], [[quillwork]], [[leather crafting|leather]], and [[Textile arts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas|textile arts]], such as weaving, twining, and tufting. In some cases, however, they choose not to include any materials associated with Indigenous cultures. |
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#REDIRECT [[Native American fashion]] |
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Controversy has emerged over the misappropriation or inappropriate use of cultural heritage by non-Native designers. Respectful use of imagery by mainstream designers who are not Indigenous can help expand appreciation of Native cultures, but plagiarism of design or malapropos use reinforces negative stereotypes and spurs controversy. Similarly, utilizing artisan craftwork can expand awareness if designers are fairly compensated for their work and given credit for their contributions. Contemporary controversies have spurred both crowd-sourced and legislative action to protect the designs and cultural heritage of Indigenous designers. |
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==History== |
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In Mexico, before 1950 many Indigenous communities were isolated and produced their own traditional clothing. As roads improved and people began moving from the countryside to cities, many put aside their traditional clothing, to blend in with their new cosmopolitan neighbors.{{sfn|Gómez|2011}} In 1965, [[Gilberto Ortiz]] ([[Mixtec]]) moved from [[San Andrés Lagunas]], Oaxaca, to [[Mexico City]] and began training as a tailor under German businessman, José Schroeder. Acquiring traditional European styling, his first major client was movie icon, [[María Félix]]. In 1978, Ortiz left Schroeder and partnered with the Italian businessman, Edmundo Calanchini. He designed mainly for businessmen and politicians until 1997, when he opened his own shop aimed specifically at the haute couture market. In 2006, at the suggestion of his client [[Juan Gabriel]], Ortiz launched his own label, ''Gioros'', an acronym using the first two letters of each of his names, Gilberto Ortiz Osorio. In 2012, he was named one of the top three tailors in the world by the textile firm [[Scabal]]. Typically Ortiz produces classically styled garments using high-end fabrics, but his latest offering in 2017 featured men's and women's jeans.{{sfn|Martínez|2014}}{{sfn|Kemchs|2017}}{{sfn|''El Diario de Chihuahua''|2017}} |
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Since 1995, the [[Canadian Aboriginal Festival]] (CANAB) has hosted a fashion show of [[First Nations in Canada|First Nations]] designers. Dave Jones ([[Garden River First Nation|Garden River Ojibwe]]), began producing an annual fashion show for the Canadian Aboriginal Music Awards (CAMA) in 2001.{{sfn|Willmott|2016|p=187}}{{sfn|Durnan|2013}} By 2008, the CANAB Festival featured six fashion shows, as well as booths for designers to exhibit their wares.{{sfn|Willmott|2016|p=188}} In 1998, the [[Denver Art Museum]] hosted a fashion show, ''Indian Chic'' featuring the works of Dorothy Grant, Wendy Ponca, and Margaret Roach Wheeler. It was the first time a major museum had shown works in their collection of Indigenous garments, labeling them as "fashion".{{sfn|Metcalfe|2010|p=243}} Other Native designers of the 2000s include [[Orlando Dugi]] (Navajo), [[Dallin Maybee]] ([[Northern Arapaho]]/[[Seneca Nation of Indians|Seneca]]), [[Connie Gaussoin]] (Navajo/[[Picuris Pueblo]]), the street style of [[Douglas Miles]] of Apache Skateboards ([[San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation|San Carlos Apache]]/[[Akimel O'odham]]) and the custom shoes of [[Louie Gong]] ([[Nooksack people|Nooksack]]/[[Squamish Nation|Squamish]]).{{Sfn|Metcalfe|2012b|p=85}} Dugi is self-taught in fashion, learning to sew, measure and create patterns from online resources.{{Sfn|Bennett-Begaye|2015|p=95}} [[Jamie Okuma]] ([[Luiseño]]/[[Fort Hall Indian Reservation|Shoshone-Bannock]]), another self-taught artist, became the youngest person to earn the Best of Show ribbon at the Santa Fe Indian Market in 2000.{{sfn|Grinberg|2013}}{{sfn|Indyke|2001}}<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://indiancountrymedianetwork.com/culture/arts-entertainment/native-american-fashions-best-of-the-best-hit-the-runway-in-santa-fe-30-photos/|title=Native American Fashion's Best of the Best Hit the Runway in Santa Fe [30 Photos] – Indian Country Media Network|website=indiancountrymedianetwork.com|language=en-US|access-date=2018-01-17}}</ref> |
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From the turn of the 21st century, there has been a resurgence in [[Latin America]] for Indigenous designs. The trend has been to partner with Indigenous communities of [[artisans]] to create fabrics for non-Native designers.{{sfn|Aconcha|2014}}{{sfn|Resnik|2016}}{{sfn|Castellanos Usigli|2016}}{{sfn|Campos L.|2016}}{{sfn|Contacto Hoy|2017}} In many countries, the Indigenous heritage is seen as part of the national identity and there was little recognition that the design elements non-Native designers used and modified were part of the intellectual property of Indigenous communities. Designers often used remnants of textiles or cut-out embroidery on one garment to use on another. Imitations of Indigenous designs were ordered from labor markets in Asia. After 2010, the trend began to change with slow recognition that original Indigenous designs and designers should be respected.{{sfn|Gómez|2011}} One innovator in this period was Franklin Janeta ([[Puruhá]]), of [[Riobamba]], Ecuador, who began working as an [[embroidery]] artisan as a child, and in 2000 opened Vispu, a store to market his designs. Modifying traditional clothing styles, he altered components like [[necklines]] and sleeve length to create more contemporary fashions.{{sfn|''El Telégrafo''|2017}} Around the same time, [[Eliana Paco Paredes]] ([[Aymara people|Aymara]]) of Bolivia began to design fashions based on the traditional costumes of the ''[[Cholo#Bolivia|cholitas]]'', using wool or [[Aguayo (cloth)|aguayo]] fabrics, but fusing them with lace or silk and decorating them with rhinestones and sequins. In 2016, after showing her work at Bolivian Fashion Week, she was invited to participate in New York Fashion Week.{{sfn|''Prensa Libre''|2016}} |
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In [[Ecuador]], [[Lucía Guillín]] ([[Puruhá]]) launched ''Churandy'' featuring the dress styles of Indigenous Andes communities with contemporary modifications in 2012. Her clothing lines have expanded to include blouses, jackets, and shorts featuring embroidery patterns and colors typical to the region.{{sfn|Alvarado|2015}} The same year, Sisa Morocho (Puruhá) also launched her design company ''Sumak Churay'' in [[Quito]], after studying fashion at the Ana MacAulife Institute. Her father's death had prompted her to leave the family hat business and branch out on her own. Using motifs from the Puruhá culture and adorning them with beads, embroidery, and sequins on brightly colored fabrics, she first sold blouses and then became known for dresses. In 2015, Morocho was able to open a second store featuring her designs in Riobamba.{{sfn|Márquez|2017}}{{sfn|Mendieta T.|2017}} |
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[[File:Modern women's parka by Victoria Kakuktinniq, 2021.jpg|alt=Refer to caption|thumb|Modern women's parka by Inuk designer [[Victoria Kakuktinniq]], 2021.]] |
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In 2013, [[Victoria Kakuktinniq]] (Inuit) founded ''Victoria's Arctic Fashion'' to market her designs. She creates fur and leather winterwear goods including headbands, jackets, [[gloves]], and [[parkas]], using sealskin and decorated with fox cuffs and embroidery.{{sfn|''Indian Country Today''|2017}}{{sfn|Tamoto|2013}} In 2015, Kakuktinniq won the Business of the Year award from the Nunavut annual trade show.{{sfn|Zerehi|2016}} |
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The Italian designing firm, [[Ermenegildo Zegna]], opened a fashion institute in 2016, in the [[Azcapotzalco]] neighborhood of [[Mexico City]] with the goal of teaching the techniques of design to Indigenous women. Students enrolled were members of the [[Mazahua people|Mazahua]], [[Nahua peoples|Nahua]], [[Otomi people|Otomí]], [[Purépecha]], [[Trique people|Triqui]] and [[Tzeltal people|Tzeltal]] ethnic groups. The training the women received focused on [[tailoring]] techniques rather than on native design elements in an effort to allow the women to move from craftwork into the high fashion market.{{sfn|Hernández|2016}} That same year, Nala Peter (Inuit) began making sealskin bras and [[panties]] at the suggestion of her partner, link marketing them online and was invited to participate in the ''[[Floe Edge]]: Contemporary Art and Collaborations'' exhibition in [[Nunavut]]. Another exhibitor at the show was [[Nicole Camphaug]] (Inuit), who designs footwear with sealskin and fur heels and vamps.{{sfn|McCue|2016}}{{sfn|''Indian Country Today''|2017}} |
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[[Vancouver]] hosted its first Indigenous Fashion Week in 2017 with designs from numerous First Nations designers, including [[Sho Sho Esquiro]]<ref name=":0" /> ([[Kaska Dena]]/Cree), known for elaborately decorated gowns, enhanced with fur, beaver tail, salmon skin, feathers and shells combined with gold trim; Evan Ducharme (Métis), whose work focuses on sustainable and Eco-friendly design{{sfn|Collie|2017}} and incorporates Métis elements like knotted belts based on fishing net techniques;{{sfn|Narang|2017}} [[Jeneen Frei Njootli]] ([[Vuntut Gwitchin First Nation|Vuntut Gwitchin]]), who presented a collection using innovative design incorporating fur and hides; [[Autum Jules]] ([[Teslin Tlingit Council|Tlingit]]), noted for her use of textures and color to reflect the connection between people and the earth; [[Tyler-Alan Jacobs]], ([[Squamish Nation|Squamish]]) whose designs reflect his identity as a [[two-spirit]] artist; and Alano Edzerza ([[Tahltan First Nation|Tahltan]]), known as a multi-media artist whose work incorporates silk-screened images of Native iconography on his garments.{{sfn|Collie|2017}} Jill Setah ([[Yunesit'in]]) participated in the Vancouver event, after having showcased her works at both Oxford Fashion Week and [[Paris Fashion Week]].{{sfn|Narang|2017}} [[Tishynah Buffalo]] ([[Gordon First Nation|George Gordon]]), who lives in [[Alberta]], Canada, was invited to participate in [[London Fashion Week]] in 2017, to showcase her innovative designs which often use [[Hudson's Bay point blanket|Pendleton blanket]]s and are decorated with beadwork and Cree floral patterns.{{sfn|Bell|2017}} [[Helen Oro]], ([[Pelican Lake First Nation|Pelican Lake]]), who designs fashion accessories, also participated in the event. Oro who has found ceremonial beading constricting, adds beadwork to glasses, headbands, [[High-heeled footwear|heels]] and creates jewelry pieces.{{sfn|Bell|2017}}{{sfn|Mattern|2018}}{{sfn|James|2017}} |
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First Nations designers, including [[Sage Paul]] ([[Denesuline]]), launched the first Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto in 2018.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Beaulne-Stuebing |first1=Laura |title=Indigenous fashion designers aren't waiting for the industry to change — they're changing it themselves |url=https://www.cbc.ca/radio/unreserved/indigenous-fashion-designers-milan-1.6790343 |website=CBC |access-date=12 November 2023 |date=26 March 2023}}</ref> |
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==Controversy== |
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In 2017, Parisian designer [[Christian Louboutin]] drew criticism for paying [[Yucatán Peninsula|Yucatec]] [[Maya peoples|Maya]] artisans only 238 pesos (around $13 US) each for bags he sold for around $28,000 pesos (equivalent to $1,550 US). The controversy was sparked when activists called out Louboutin for exploiting the artisans. He paid for all of their materials and paid the workers 478 pesos per day for 6 hours of work, which compares to the average Mexican salary in the region of 80 pesos for 8 hours of work per day. The artisans were thankful for the work and the monies they received, but Louboutin's firm pulled the page advertising the bags from his website.{{sfn|Escobar|Rodríguez|2017}}{{sfn|Fregoso|2017}} That same year, the Peruvian textile company Kuna withdrew a collection after complaints that the company had misappropriated ''kené'' designs from the [[Shipibo-Conibo people]]. The controversy motivated [[Peruvian congress|Congresswoman]] [[Tania Pariona Tarqui]] to introduce legislation to protect the cultural heritage and symbols of Indigenous communities in Peru.{{sfn|''La Vanguardia''|2017}} |
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==See also== |
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*[[Textile arts of indigenous peoples of the Americas]] |
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*[[Inuit clothing]] |
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== References == |
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===Citations=== |
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{{Reflist|30em}} |
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===Bibliography=== |
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{{refbegin|30em}} |
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*{{cite journal|last1=Aconcha|first1=Diana Carolina|title=De los pueblos originarios a la moda actual|journal=Actas de Diseño|date=July 2014|volume=IX|issue=17|pages=136–142|url=http://fido.palermo.edu/servicios_dyc/publicacionesdc/archivos/485_libro.pdf|access-date=13 January 2018|trans-title=From the original peoples to current fashion|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113165712/http://fido.palermo.edu/servicios_dyc/publicacionesdc/archivos/485_libro.pdf|archive-date=13 January 2018|language=es|issn=1850-2032}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Alvarado|first1=Ana Cristina|title=Churandy propone ropa de noche indígena|url=http://www.elcomercio.com/tendencias/moda-indigenas-vestimenta-cultura-chimborazo.html|access-date=13 January 2018|publisher=[[El Comercio (Ecuador)|El Comercio]]|date=5 November 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151107222154/http://www.elcomercio.com/tendencias/moda-indigenas-vestimenta-cultura-chimborazo.html|archive-date=7 November 2015|location=Quito, Ecuador|language=es|trans-title=Churandy proposes Indigenous evening wear|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Avila|first1=Theresa|title=Native American Designers Are Behind More Clothes Than You May Realize|url=https://mic.com/articles/131460/native-american-designers-are-behind-more-clothes-than-you-may-realize#.MzdSuSFOQ|access-date=8 January 2018|publisher=[[Mic (media company)|Mic]]|date=30 December 2015|location=New York City, New York}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Baca|first1=Kim|title=Patta Joest puts the treadle to the metal (pt 1)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16452797/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=11 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=20 August 1999|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=52|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} and {{cite news|ref=none|last1=Baca|first1=Kim|title=Patta Joest puts the treadle to the metal (pt 2)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16452616/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=11 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=20 August 1999|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=53|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Bartkowski|first=Becky|title=Beyond Buckskin: Jessica R. Metcalfe Expands Her Native Fashion Blog into an Online Shop|url=http://www.phoenixnewtimes.com/arts/beyond-buckskin-jessica-r-metcalfe-expands-her-native-fashion-blog-into-an-online-shop-6581427|date=16 May 2012|work=Phoenix New Times|access-date=11 January 2017|archive-url=http://www.phoenixnewtimes.com:80/arts/beyond-buckskin-jessica-r-metcalfe-expands-her-native-fashion-blog-into-an-online-shop-6581427|archive-date=30 May 2016}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Begley|first1=Maggie|title=Grammy Fest party in New York attracts top Indian talent|url=https://indiancountrymedianetwork.com/news/grammy-fest-party-in-new-york-attracts-top-indian-talent/|access-date=12 January 2018|work=[[Indian Country Today]]|date=6 March 2003|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170908122652/https://indiancountrymedianetwork.com/news/grammy-fest-party-in-new-york-attracts-top-indian-talent/|archive-date=8 September 2017|location=New York City, New York}} |
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*{{Cite journal|last=Bennett-Begaye|first=Jourdan|date=July 2015|title=What Is Truly Native?|url=http://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=f5h&AN=103600367&site=ehost-live|url-access=subscription|via=EBSCOhost|journal=Native People's Magazine|volume=28|issue=4|pages=93–97|access-date=10 January 2018}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Bell|first1=Roberta|title=Alberta Indigenous designer to showcase culture during London Fashion Week|url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/edmonton/indigenous-designer-alberta-london-fashion-week-1.3966430|access-date=14 January 2018|publisher=[[CBC News]]|date=4 February 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113184214/http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/edmonton/indigenous-designer-alberta-london-fashion-week-1.3966430|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Bhasin|first=Kim|title=Ralph Lauren's Native American Ads Reveal Sad Truth About The Fashion World|url=https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/01/13/ralph-lauren-native-american_n_6444366.html|date=27 January 2015|work=Huffington Post|access-date=11 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170701080526/http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2015/01/13/ralph-lauren-native-american_n_6444366.html|archive-date=1 July 2017|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Brown|first1=Herman|title=Art—a family tradition|url=https://www.yourokmulgee.com/articles/2016/06/08/art-family-tradition|access-date=8 January 2018|publisher=Okmulgee Times|date=8 June 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180108151010/https://www.yourokmulgee.com/articles/2016/06/08/art-family-tradition|archive-date=8 January 2018|location=Okmulgee, Oklahoma}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Busch|first1=Laura|title=D'arcy Moses' Big Bet|url=https://uphere.ca/articles/darcy-moses-big-bet|access-date=10 January 2018|magazine=[[Up Here (magazine)|Up Here]]|publisher=Up Here Publishing|date=1 October 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170630140938/http://uphere.ca/articles/darcy-moses-big-bet|archive-date=30 June 2017|location=Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada|issn=0828-4253}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Campos L.|first1=Paula|title=Voz, la innovadora marca que une artesanía chilena con diseños de lujo|magazine=[[Harper's Bazaar]]|date=25 July 2016|url=http://www.harpersbazaar.cl/moda/voz-la-innovadora-marca-que-une-artesania-chilena-con-disenos-de-lujo/|access-date=13 January 2018|trans-title=Voz, the innovative brand that unites Chilean crafts with luxury designs|publisher=[[Hearst Magazines]], [[Televisa]]|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160730191059/http://www.harpersbazaar.cl/moda/voz-la-innovadora-marca-que-une-artesania-chilena-con-disenos-de-lujo/|archive-date=30 July 2016|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|issn=0017-7873}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Castellanos Usigli|first1=Talía|title=Cómo 4 marcas de moda acercan el trabajo artesanal a los millennials|magazine=[[Vogue Mexico & Latin America|Vogue]]|date=19 August 2016|url=http://www.vogue.mx/moda/estilo-vogue/articulos/marcas-de-moda-latinoamericanas-que-trabajan-con-artesanos/6371|access-date=13 January 2018|trans-title=How 4 fashion brands bring craftsmanship to millennials|publisher=[[Condé Nast]]|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161029231720/http://www.vogue.mx/moda/estilo-vogue/articulos/marcas-de-moda-latinoamericanas-que-trabajan-con-artesanos/6371|archive-date=29 October 2016|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|issn=0042-8000|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Collie|first1=Meghan|title=10 Designers to Watch at Vancouver Indigenous Fashion Week|url=http://www.flare.com/fashion/10-designers-vancouver-indigenous-fashion-week/|magazine=[[Flare (magazine)|Flare]]|publisher=[[Rogers Media]]|access-date=14 January 2018|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada|date=26 July 2017|issn=0708-4927}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Crowley|first=Kate|title=Nanibaa Beck Launches Notabove Jewelry Line with Artist J. Slim|url=http://www.phoenixnewtimes.com/arts/nanibaa-beck-launches-notabove-jewelry-line-with-artist-j-slim-6578150|date=4 December 2013|work=Phoenix New Times|access-date=11 January 2018}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Deerchild|first1=Rosanna|title=Unreserved: Fashion designer Dorothy Grant has been sharing Haida legends for 30 years|url=http://www.cbc.ca/radio/unreserved/all-about-the-arts-fashion-books-and-photography-1.3894618/fashion-designer-dorothy-grant-has-been-sharing-haida-legends-for-30-years-1.3899221|access-date=8 January 2018|publisher=[[CBC Radio]]|date=18 December 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171106034343/http://www.cbc.ca/radio/unreserved/all-about-the-arts-fashion-books-and-photography-1.3894618/fashion-designer-dorothy-grant-has-been-sharing-haida-legends-for-30-years-1.3899221|archive-date=6 November 2017|location=Ottawa, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Durnan|first1=Matt|title=Building confidence in youth: David Jones visits Thompson|url=http://www.thompsoncitizen.net/news/thompson/building-confidence-in-youth-david-jones-visits-thompson-1.1364682|access-date=10 January 2018|publisher=[[Thompson Citizen]]|date=24 April 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180110181714/http://www.thompsoncitizen.net/news/thompson/building-confidence-in-youth-david-jones-visits-thompson-1.1364682|archive-date=10 January 2018|location=Thompson, Manitoba, Canada}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Escobar|first1=Isamar|last2=Rodríguez|first2=Jazmín|title=A indígenas mayas les pagan 200 pesos por adornar bolsas de 28 mil|url=http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/entrada-de-opinion/colaboracion/redaccion/2017/07/8/indigenas-mayas-les-pagan-200-pesos-por-adornar|access-date=13 January 2018|newspaper=[[El Universal (Mexico City)|El Universal]]|date=8 July 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113205844/http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/entrada-de-opinion/colaboracion/redaccion/2017/07/8/indigenas-mayas-les-pagan-200-pesos-por-adornar|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|trans-title=Mayan Indians are paid 200 pesos to decorate bags worth 28 thousand pesos}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Falcon|first1=Janine|title=First Nation old world meets new with these aboriginal fashion designers|url=http://www.metronews.ca/entertainment/2009/07/23/old-world-meets-new.html|access-date=12 January 2018|agency=[[Metro International]]|publisher=Toronto Metro News|date=23 July 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160630052301/http://www.metronews.ca/entertainment/2009/07/23/old-world-meets-new.html|archive-date=30 June 2016|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Fregoso|first1=Juliana|title=Polémica en México por el trabajo de un diseñador top de moda francés con artesanos mayas|url=http://www.infobae.com/america/mexico/2017/08/05/polemica-en-mexico-por-el-trabajo-de-un-disenador-top-de-moda-frances-con-artesanos-mayas/|access-date=13 January 2018|publisher=[[Infobae]]|date=5 August 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170805132123/http://www.infobae.com/america/mexico/2017/08/05/polemica-en-mexico-por-el-trabajo-de-un-disenador-top-de-moda-frances-con-artesanos-mayas/|archive-date=5 August 2017|location=Argentina|language=es|trans-title=Controversy in Mexico for the work of a top French fashion designer with Mayan artisans}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Gilger|first=Lauren|title=Urban Outfitters Pulls Navajo Name from Collection; Heard Museum Weighs In on Native-Inspired Fashion That Should Be Produced|url=http://www.phoenixnewtimes.com/arts/urban-outfitters-pulls-navajo-name-from-collection-heard-museum-weighs-in-on-native-inspired-fashion-that-should-be-produced-6575579|date=19 October 2011|work=Phoenix New Times|access-date=11 January 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180111192818/http://www.phoenixnewtimes.com/arts/urban-outfitters-pulls-navajo-name-from-collection-heard-museum-weighs-in-on-native-inspired-fashion-that-should-be-produced-6575579|archive-date=11 January 2018}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Gómez|first1=Adriana|title=Moda indígena inspira pasarelas en México|url=http://www.emol.com/noticias/Tendencias/2011/11/24/736119/Moda-indigena-inspira-pasarelas-en-Mexico.html|access-date=14 January 2018|agency=[[Associated Press]]|publisher=[[Emol]]|date=17 November 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180114220436/http://www.emol.com/noticias/Tendencias/2011/11/24/736119/Moda-indigena-inspira-pasarelas-en-Mexico.html|archive-date=14 January 2018|location=Santiago, Chile|language=es|trans-title=Indigenous fashion inspires catwalks in Mexico}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Grinberg|first1=Emanuella|title=Native American designers fight cultural caricatures|url=http://edition.cnn.com/2012/11/30/living/native-american-fashion-appropriation/index.html|access-date=12 January 2018|publisher=[[CNN]]|date=4 June 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140813063645/http://edition.cnn.com/2012/11/30/living/native-american-fashion-appropriation/index.html|archive-date=13 August 2014|location=Atlanta, Georgia}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Grinberg|first=Emanuella|title=Taking Native American fashion 'Beyond Buckskin' and headdresses|url=http://www.cnn.com/2013/04/01/living/native-fashion-beyond-buckskin/index.html|date=1 April 2013|work=CNN|access-date=10 January 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160510091628/http://www.cnn.com/2013/04/01/living/native-fashion-beyond-buckskin/index.html|archive-date=10 May 2016}} |
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*{{cite book|last1=Hardin-Burrola|first1=Elizabeth|last2=Sarath|first2=Carol|last3=Rosebrough|first3=Bob|title=Legendary Locals of Gallup|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=i3AuDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA122|year=2017|publisher=Arcadia Publishing Incorporated|location=Charleston, South Carolina|isbn=978-1-4396-6344-8}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Haywood|first1=Phaedra|title=Jeri Ah-be-hill, 1934–2015: Indigenous fashion aficionado was 'a giant in honoring her native culture'|url=http://www.santafenewmexican.com/life/features/jeri-ah-be-hill---indigenous-fashion-aficionado-was/article_b7b30f1e-0b78-5eae-bcab-5222c1270ade.html|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=13 March 2015|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Hernández|first1=Sandra|title=Son Zegna. Indígenas en la alta costura|url=http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/articulo/metropoli/cdmx/2016/10/23/son-zegna-indigenas-en-la-alta-costura|access-date=14 January 2018|newspaper=[[El Universal (Mexico City)|El Universal]]|date=23 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170318021723/http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/articulo/metropoli/cdmx/2016/10/23/son-zegna-indigenas-en-la-alta-costura|archive-date=18 March 2017|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|trans-title=They are Zegna: Indigeous women in high fashion}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Indursky|first1=Bill|title=Native Fashion Now Opens: Virtual Tour|url=http://designlifenetwork.com/native-fashion-now-opens-virtual-tour/|magazine=Design Life|publisher=Design Life Network|access-date=17 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170216045209/http://designlifenetwork.com/native-fashion-now-opens-virtual-tour/|archive-date=16 February 2017|location=New York, New York|date=15 February 2017}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Indyke|first=Dottie|title=Jamie Okuma|url=http://www.southwestart.com/native-american-arts/jamie_okuma|date=May 2001|work=Native Arts|access-date=10 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151231073709/http://www.southwestart.com/native-american-arts/jamie_okuma|archive-date=31 December 2015|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=James|first1=Thia|title=Helen Oro cutting a figure with confidence in fashion world|url=https://thestarphoenix.com/life/bridges/helen-oro-cutting-a-figure-with-confidence-in-fashion-world|access-date=14 January 2018|publisher=[[Saskatoon StarPhoenix]]|date=13 January 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170601144113/http://thestarphoenix.com/life/bridges/helen-oro-cutting-a-figure-with-confidence-in-fashion-world|archive-date=1 June 2017|location=Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Kemchs|first1=Christian|title=El sastre mixteco de los poderosos|url=http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/articulo/nacion/sociedad/2017/05/17/el-sastre-mixteco-de-los-poderosos|access-date=14 January 2018|newspaper=[[El Universal (Mexico City)|El Universal]]|date=17 May 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170610110130/http://www.eluniversal.com.mx/articulo/nacion/sociedad/2017/05/17/el-sastre-mixteco-de-los-poderosos|archive-date=10 June 2017|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|trans-title=The Mixtec tailor for the powerful|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Latimer|first1=Kendal|title=Sask. Indigenous fashion designer to debut on New York runway|url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatchewan/sask-indigenous-fashion-designer-heads-to-new-york-1.3736194|access-date=16 January 2018|publisher=[[CBC News]]|date=25 August 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170516121731/http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatchewan/sask-indigenous-fashion-designer-heads-to-new-york-1.3736194|archive-date=16 May 2017|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada|url-status=dead}} |
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* {{Cite journal|last1=Leavitt|first1=Peter A.|last2=Covarrubias|first2=Rebecca|last3=Perez|first3=Yvonne A.|last4=Fryberg|first4=Stephanie A.|date=2015-03-01|title='Frozen in Time': The Impact of Native American Media Representations on Identity and Self-Understanding|journal=Journal of Social Issues|language=en|volume=71|issue=1|pages=39–53|doi=10.1111/josi.12095|issn=1540-4560}} |
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* {{Cite journal|last=Lefevre|first=Camille|date=August 2016|title=Native Threads|url=http://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=voh&AN=116679849&site=ehost-live|url-access=subscription|via=EBSCOhost|journal=American Craft|volume=76|issue=4|pages=20–21}} |
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*{{cite web|last1=Lieber|first1=Chavie|title=The Reclaiming of Native American Fashion|url=https://www.racked.com/2016/1/21/10763702/native-american-fashion|website=Racked|publisher=[[Vox Media]]|access-date=9 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180105013620/https://www.racked.com/2016/1/21/10763702/native-american-fashion|archive-date=5 January 2018|location=Washington, D. C.|date=21 January 2016}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Leighty|first1=John M.|title=Native American designs go high fashion;NEWLN:Traditional Lakota patterns adorn contemporary evening wear|url=https://www.upi.com/Archives/1986/07/21/Native-American-designs-go-high-fashionNEWLNTraditional-Lakota-patterns-adorn-contemporary-evening-wear/6690522302400/|access-date=11 January 2018|agency=[[UPI]]|date=21 July 1986|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180111195139/https://www.upi.com/Archives/1986/07/21/Native-American-designs-go-high-fashionNEWLNTraditional-Lakota-patterns-adorn-contemporary-evening-wear/6690522302400/|archive-date=11 January 2018|location=Boca Raton, Florida}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Livingston|first1=Joan|title=Citizen of the Year: Patricia Michaels|url=http://www.taosnews.com/stories/citizen-of-the-year-patricia-michaels,2211|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Taos News]]|date=9 October 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180108160944/http://www.taosnews.com/stories/citizen-of-the-year-patricia-michaels,2211|archive-date=8 January 2018|location=Taos, New Mexico}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=López|first1=Santana|title=Breaking Out: Six artists use prestigious award as opportunity to move forward (pt 1)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16373956/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=15 August 2007|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=Z072|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}}, {{cite news|ref=none|last1=López|first1=Santana|title=Breaking Out: Six artists use prestigious award as opportunity to move forward (pt. 2)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16374030/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=15 August 2007|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=Z044|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} and {{cite news|ref=none|last1=López|first1=Santana|title=Breaking Out: Six artists use prestigious award as opportunity to move forward (pt. 3)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16374062/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=15 August 2007|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=Z074|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Mansfield|first1=Virginia|title=Frankie Welch Has Designs on the Future|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/local/1990/02/22/frankie-welch-has-designs-on-the-future/5d414c1c-1c75-432c-92e6-e7287fa8845f/|access-date=17 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Washington Post]]|date=22 February 1990|location=Washington, D. C.}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Márquez|first1=Cristina|title=Sus diseños tienen la identidad puruhá|magazine=Revista Líderes|date=1 August 2017|url=http://www.revistalideres.ec/lideres/disenos-identidad-puruha-intercultural-moda.html|access-date=13 January 2018|trans-title=Her designs have puruhá identity|publisher=[[El Comercio (Ecuador)|El Comercio]]|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113195955/http://www.revistalideres.ec/lideres/disenos-identidad-puruha-intercultural-moda.html|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=Quito, Ecuador|language=es}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Martínez|first1=Myrna I.|title=Un mexicano, entre los mejores sastres del mundo|url=http://www.elfinanciero.com.mx:80/after-office/sastreria-oficio-que-cae-en-el-olvido.html|access-date=14 January 2018|publisher=El Financiero|date=1 June 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170714025554/http://www.elfinanciero.com.mx/after-office/sastreria-oficio-que-cae-en-el-olvido.html|archive-date=14 July 2017|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|trans-title=A Mexican, among the best tailors of the world|url-status=dead}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Matera|first=Avery|title=VS Fashion Show 2017 Slammed for Cultural Appropriation|url=https://www.teenvogue.com/story/vs-fashion-show-cultural-appropriation-victorias-secret|date=22 November 2017|work=Teen Vogue|access-date=11 January 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171201143037/https://www.teenvogue.com/story/vs-fashion-show-cultural-appropriation-victorias-secret|archive-date=1 December 2017}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Mattern|first1=Ashleigh|title=Sask. Indigenous designer heading to Hollywood|url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatoon/indigenous-fashion-designer-accessories-helen-oro-1.4474104|access-date=14 January 2018|publisher=[[CBC News]]|date=5 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180114041507/http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/saskatoon/indigenous-fashion-designer-accessories-helen-oro-1.4474104|archive-date=14 January 2018|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=McCue|first1=Duncan|title=Putting sexy back in sealskin: Nunavut seamstresses aim for high-end fashion market|url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sealskin-fashion-sexy-nunavut-1.3486990|access-date=18 January 2018|publisher=[[CBC News]]|date=14 March 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170319133900/http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/sealskin-fashion-sexy-nunavut-1.3486990|archive-date=19 March 2017|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Mendieta T.|first1=José A.|title=Moda indígena en Ecuador: para no negar la identidad|url=https://distintaslatitudes.net/11128-2|magazine=Distintas Latitudes|access-date=13 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113200651/https://distintaslatitudes.net/11128-2|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=Mexico City, Mexico|language=es|date=11 August 2017|postscript=Wordpress publication with an editorial board and curated content|trans-title=Indigenous fashion in Ecuador: no denial of identity}} |
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*{{cite web|last1=Metcalfe|first1=Jessica R.|title=Frankie Welch, Politics, and that Cherokee Scarf|url=http://www.beyondbuckskin.com/2012/03/frankie-welch-politics-and-that.html|website=Beyond Buckskin|publisher=Jessica R. Metcalfe|access-date=17 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170716134300/http://www.beyondbuckskin.com/2012/03/frankie-welch-politics-and-that.html|archive-date=16 July 2017|location=Gardena, North Dakota|date=22 March 2012a}} |
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*{{Cite journal|last=Metcalfe|first=Jessica R.|date=July 2012b|title=Native Couture|url=http://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=f5h&AN=77843430&site=ehost-live|url-access=subscription|via=EBSCOhost|journal=Native Peoples Magazine|volume=25|issue=4|pages=84–86|access-date=10 January 2018}} |
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*{{cite thesis|last1=Metcalfe|first1=Jessica RheAnn|title=Native Designers of High Fashion: Expressing Identity, Creativity, and Tradition in Contemporary Customary Clothing Design|date=2010|type=PhD|publisher=The [[University of Arizona]]|location=Tucson, Arizona|hdl=10150/194057}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Metcalfe|first1=Jessica R.|title=Native high fashion: then, now and into the future (pt. 1)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/13072725/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=11 August 2013|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=Z042|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}}, {{cite news|ref=none|last1=Metcalfe|first1=Jessica R.|title=Native high fashion: then, now and into the future (pt. 2)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16369813/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=11 August 2013|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=Z044|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} and {{cite news|ref=none|last1=Metcalfe|first1=Jessica R.|title=Native high fashion: then, now and into the future (pt. 3)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16369826/the_santa_fe_new_mexican/|access-date=8 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Santa Fe New Mexican]]|date=11 August 2013|location=Santa Fe, New Mexico|page=Z045|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{cite journal|last1=Monks|first1=Vicki|title=Margaret Roach Wheeler Chickasaw Textile Artist|journal=[[First American Art Magazine]]|date=Winter 2016|issue=13|pages=70–75|issn=2333-5548}} |
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*{{cite book|last=Nadeau|first=Chantal|title=Fur Nation: From the Beaver to Brigitte Bardot|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=wsINwC_nAEYC&pg=PA186|year=2005|publisher=Routledge|location=London, England|isbn=978-1-134-72482-6}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Narang|first1=Sonia|title=These photos show the strength and beauty of aboriginal cultures in Canada|url=https://www.pri.org/stories/2017-09-20/these-photos-show-strength-and-beauty-aboriginal-cultures-canada|access-date=16 January 2018|publisher=[[Public Radio International]]|date=20 September 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180109121017/https://www.pri.org/stories/2017-09-20/these-photos-show-strength-and-beauty-aboriginal-cultures-canada|archive-date=9 January 2018|location=Minneapolis, Minnesota}} |
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*{{cite journal|last1=Parezo|first1=Nancy J.|title=What's in a Name?: The 1940s–1950s 'Squaw Dress'|journal=[[American Indian Quarterly]]|last2=Jones|first2=Angelina R.|date=June 2009|volume=33|issue=3|pages=373–404|doi=10.1353/aiq.0.0058|s2cid=162233209}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Phinney|first1=Susan|title=Designer streamlines a bulky wool coat with a sleek fit and stunning designs|url=http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/article/Designer-streamlines-a-bulky-wool-coat-with-a-1164537.php|access-date=11 January 2018|newspaper=[[Seattle Post-Intelligencer]]|date=19 January 2005|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180111235257/http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/article/Designer-streamlines-a-bulky-wool-coat-with-a-1164537.php|archive-date=11 January 2018|location=Seattle, Washington}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Reid|first1=Betty|title=Navajo women lay claim to world of fashion (pt 1)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16651917/arizona_republic/|access-date=18 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Arizona Republic]]|date=28 July 1999|location=Phoenix, Arizona|page=31|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} and {{cite news|ref=none|last1=Reid|first1=Betty|title=Navajo designers gaining share of fashion market (pt 2)|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16652005/arizona_republic/|access-date=18 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Arizona Republic]]|date=28 July 1999|location=Phoenix, Arizona|page=35|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{cite magazine|last1=Resnik|first1=Jaqueline|title=Cómo ayuda la moda a las artesanas mexicanas|magazine=[[Forbes]]|date=12 September 2016|url=https://www.forbes.com.mx/forbes-life/moda-artesanas-mexicanas/|access-date=13 January 2018|trans-title=How fashion helps Mexican artisans|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113171815/https://www.forbes.com.mx/forbes-life/moda-artesanas-mexicanas/|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=New York, New York|language=es|issn=0015-6914}} |
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*{{Cite news|last=Ross|first=Jenna|title=Tiny North Dakota town a stylemaker's home base|url=http://www.readingeagle.com/life/article/tiny-north-dakota-town-a-stylemakers-home-base|date=2 November 2017|work=Reading Eagle Company|access-date=10 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171102095357/http://www.readingeagle.com/life/article/tiny-north-dakota-town-a-stylemakers-home-base|archive-date=November 2, 2017}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Sinha-Roy|first1=Piya|editor1-last=Simao|editor1-first=Paul|title=No Doubt apologize to Native Americans for Wild West video|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/entertainment-us-nodoubt-apology/no-doubt-apologize-to-native-americans-for-wild-west-video-idUSBRE8A30KU20121104|access-date=12 January 2018|work=[[Reuters]]|date=4 November 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180112225908/https://www.reuters.com/article/entertainment-us-nodoubt-apology/no-doubt-apologize-to-native-americans-for-wild-west-video-idUSBRE8A30KU20121104|archive-date=12 January 2018|location=London, England}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Sinopoli|first1=Danny|title=How a little company from Manitoba is taking over the world one moccasin at a time|url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/how-a-little-company-from-manitoba-is-taking-over-the-world-one-mocccasin-at-a-time/article24917741/|access-date=12 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Globe and Mail]]|date=12 June 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180112192251/https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/fashion-and-beauty/fashion/how-a-little-company-from-manitoba-is-taking-over-the-world-one-mocccasin-at-a-time/article24917741/|archive-date=12 January 2018|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite book|last=Schmitt|first=Rory O'Neill|title=Navajo and Hopi Art in Arizona: Continuing Traditions|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AGxBCwAAQBAJ&pg=PT126|year=2016|publisher=Arcadia Publishing Incorporated|location=Charleston, South Carolina|isbn=978-1-62585-560-2}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Silversmith|first1=Shondiin|title=Fashion show honors great Native women|url=http://navajotimes.com/entertainment/2013/1013/103113apache.php|access-date=18 January 2018|newspaper=[[Navajo Times]]|date=31 October 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131104023129/http://navajotimes.com/entertainment/2013/1013/103113apache.php|archive-date=4 November 2013|location=Window Rock, Arizona}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Tamoto|first1=Connie|title=Exploring the Arctic|url=https://www.winnipegfreepress.com/arts-and-life/life/exploring-the-arctic-233904331.html|access-date=18 January 2018|newspaper=[[Winnipeg Free Press]]|date=30 November 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180118174606/https://www.winnipegfreepress.com/arts-and-life/life/exploring-the-arctic-233904331.html|archive-date=18 January 2018|location=Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada}} |
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*{{cite web|last1=Udy|first1=Vanessa|title=The Appropriation of Aboriginal Cultural Heritage: Examining the Uses and Pitfalls of the Canadian Intellectual Property Regime|url=https://www.sfu.ca/ipinch/outputs/blog/canadian-intellectual-property-regime/|website=Intellectual Property Issues in Cultural Heritage|publisher=[[Simon Fraser University]]|access-date=12 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160401235325/https://www.sfu.ca/ipinch/outputs/blog/canadian-intellectual-property-regime/|archive-date=1 April 2016|location=Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada|date=19 November 2015}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Walker|first1=Jenn|title=The Woman Who Wears the Dress|url=http://www.globemiamitimes.com/the-woman-who-wears-the-dress/|access-date=18 January 2018|publisher=Globe Miami Times|date=19 October 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180118185953/http://www.globemiamitimes.com/the-woman-who-wears-the-dress/|archive-date=18 January 2018|location=Globe, Arizona}} |
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*{{cite book|last=Willmott|first=Corey|editor-last=Lemire|editor-first=Beverly|title=The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society: Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times|chapter-url= https://books.google.com/books?id=_wGaNRoHWI0C&pg=PA187|year=2016|publisher=Taylor & Francis|location=New York, New York|isbn=978-1-351-88969-8|chapter=8. Designing, Producing and Enacting Nationalisms: Contemporary Amerindian Fashions in Canada|pages=167–190}} |
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*{{cite news|last1=Zerehi|first1=Sima Sahar|title=25th annual Nunavut trade show and conference opens in Iqaluit|url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/nunavut-trade-show-conference-iqaluit-1.3768723|access-date=18 January 2018|publisher=[[CBC News]]|date=19 September 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161223191812/http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/nunavut-trade-show-conference-iqaluit-1.3768723|archive-date=23 December 2016|location=Toronto, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''Contacto Hoy''|2017}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Artesanías de indígenas colombianos y moda se fusionan en feria BCapital|url=https://contactohoy.com.mx/artesanias-de-indigenas-colombianos-y-moda-se-fusionan-en-feria-bcapital/|access-date=13 January 2018|publisher=Contacto Hoy|date=20 October 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113183317/https://contactohoy.com.mx/artesanias-de-indigenas-colombianos-y-moda-se-fusionan-en-feria-bcapital/|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=Durango, Mexico|language=es|trans-title=Indigenous Colombian crafts and fashion merge at Bogotá Capital fair}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''The Arizona Republic''|2002}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Clothing that's cultural|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16650519/clothing_thats_cultural_the_arizona/|access-date=18 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Arizona Republic]]|date=14 January 2002|location=Phoenix, Arizona|page=78|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{cite magazine|ref={{harvid|''West of the City Magazine''|2016}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Design Studio: Angela Demontigny|magazine=West of the City Magazine|date=10 November 2016|url=http://www.westofthecity.com/people-and-events/design-studio-angela-demontigny/|access-date=12 January 2018|publisher=[[Metroland Media Group]] Ltd.|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180112183615/http://www.westofthecity.com/people-and-events/design-studio-angela-demontigny/|archive-date=12 January 2018|location=Mississauga, Ontario, Canada}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''Prensa Libre''|2016}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Diseñadora aimara boliviana presenta nueva colección|url=http://www.prensalibre.com/vida/moda-y-estilo/diseadora-aimara-boliviana-presenta-nueva-coleccion|access-date=13 January 2018|agency=[[EFE]]|newspaper=[[Prensa Libre (Guatemala)|Prensa Libre]]|date=16 July 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161017173426/http://www.prensalibre.com/vida/moda-y-estilo/diseadora-aimara-boliviana-presenta-nueva-coleccion|archive-date=17 October 2016|location=Guatemala City, Guatemala|language=es|trans-title=Bolivian aimara designer presents new collection}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''El Diario de Chihuahua''|2017}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=El sastre indígena que confecciona la ropa de los poderosos en México|url=http://eldiariodechihuahua.mx/Nacional/2017/10/06/-el-sastre-indigena-que-confecciona-la-ropa-de-los-poderosos-en-mexico-/|access-date=14 January 2018|publisher=[[El Diario de El Paso|El Diario de Chihuahua]]|date=6 October 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171007012644/http://eldiariodechihuahua.mx/Nacional/2017/10/06/-el-sastre-indigena-que-confecciona-la-ropa-de-los-poderosos-en-mexico-/|archive-date=7 October 2017|location=Chihuahua, Mexico|language=es|trans-title=The indigenous tailor who makes the clothes for the powerful in Mexico}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''The Missoulian''|1973}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Indian Fashions Are Unique|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/16429079/indian_fashions_are_unique_the/|access-date=10 January 2018|newspaper=[[The Missoulian]]|date=3 July 1973|location=Missoula, Montana|page=5|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''Indian Country Today''|2017}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Inuit Designers Revive Sealskin Fashion, Celebrate 'National Seal Products Day', May 20|url=https://indiancountrymedianetwork.com/culture/arts-entertainment/inuit-designers-revive-sealskin-fashion-celebrate-national-seal-products-day-may-20/|access-date=18 January 2018|work=[[Indian Country Today]]|date=20 May 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180118173054/https://indiancountrymedianetwork.com/culture/arts-entertainment/inuit-designers-revive-sealskin-fashion-celebrate-national-seal-products-day-may-20/|archive-date=18 January 2018|location=New York City, New York}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''The Daily Inter Lake''|1977}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Jewel Gilham exhibits fashions|url=https://www.newspapers.com/clip/4145868/the_daily_inter_lake/|access-date=10 January 2018|publisher=[[Daily Inter Lake]]|date=1 May 1977|location=Kalispell, Montana|page=14|via = [[Newspapers.com]]}} {{open access}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''El Telégrafo''|2017}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=La moda indígena florece en Ecuador|url=http://www.eltelegrafo.com.ec/noticias/sociedad/4/la-floreciente-industria-de-la-moda-indigena-en-ecuador|access-date=13 January 2018|agency=[[Agence France-Presse]]|publisher=[[El Telégrafo (Ecuador)|El Telégrafo]]|date=14 July 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180113173927/http://www.eltelegrafo.com.ec/noticias/sociedad/4/la-floreciente-industria-de-la-moda-indigena-en-ecuador|archive-date=13 January 2018|location=Guayaquil, Ecuador|language=es|trans-title=Indigenous fashion flourishes in Ecuador}} |
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*{{cite news|ref={{harvid|''La Vanguardia''|2017}}|author=<!--Staff writer(s); no by-line.-->|title=Retiran colección de moda acusada de apropiarse de arte de indígenas peruanos|url=http://www.lavanguardia.com/vida/20170918/431393549137/retiran-coleccion-de-moda-acusada-de-apropiarse-de-arte-de-indigenas-peruanos.html|access-date=13 January 2018|agency=[[EFE]]|newspaper=[[La Vanguardia]]|date=18 September 2017|location=Barcelona, Spain|language=es|trans-title=Retracted fashion collection accused of appropriating Peruvian indigenous art}} |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Indigenous fashion of the Americas}} |
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[[Category:Indigenous fashion designers of the Americas]] |
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[[Category:American fashion]] |
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[[Category:Indigenous fashion]] |
Revision as of 18:33, 4 December 2023
Indigenous fashion of the Americas is the design and creation of high-fashion clothing and fashion accessories by Native Americans. Indigenous designers frequently incorporate motifs and customary materials into their wearable artworks, providing a basis for creating items for the haute couture and international fashion markets. Their designs may result from techniques such as beadwork, quillwork, leather, and textile arts, such as weaving, twining, and tufting. In some cases, however, they choose not to include any materials associated with Indigenous cultures.
Controversy has emerged over the misappropriation or inappropriate use of cultural heritage by non-Native designers. Respectful use of imagery by mainstream designers who are not Indigenous can help expand appreciation of Native cultures, but plagiarism of design or malapropos use reinforces negative stereotypes and spurs controversy. Similarly, utilizing artisan craftwork can expand awareness if designers are fairly compensated for their work and given credit for their contributions. Contemporary controversies have spurred both crowd-sourced and legislative action to protect the designs and cultural heritage of Indigenous designers.
History
In Mexico, before 1950 many Indigenous communities were isolated and produced their own traditional clothing. As roads improved and people began moving from the countryside to cities, many put aside their traditional clothing, to blend in with their new cosmopolitan neighbors.[1] In 1965, Gilberto Ortiz (Mixtec) moved from San Andrés Lagunas, Oaxaca, to Mexico City and began training as a tailor under German businessman, José Schroeder. Acquiring traditional European styling, his first major client was movie icon, María Félix. In 1978, Ortiz left Schroeder and partnered with the Italian businessman, Edmundo Calanchini. He designed mainly for businessmen and politicians until 1997, when he opened his own shop aimed specifically at the haute couture market. In 2006, at the suggestion of his client Juan Gabriel, Ortiz launched his own label, Gioros, an acronym using the first two letters of each of his names, Gilberto Ortiz Osorio. In 2012, he was named one of the top three tailors in the world by the textile firm Scabal. Typically Ortiz produces classically styled garments using high-end fabrics, but his latest offering in 2017 featured men's and women's jeans.[2][3][4]
Since 1995, the Canadian Aboriginal Festival (CANAB) has hosted a fashion show of First Nations designers. Dave Jones (Garden River Ojibwe), began producing an annual fashion show for the Canadian Aboriginal Music Awards (CAMA) in 2001.[5][6] By 2008, the CANAB Festival featured six fashion shows, as well as booths for designers to exhibit their wares.[7] In 1998, the Denver Art Museum hosted a fashion show, Indian Chic featuring the works of Dorothy Grant, Wendy Ponca, and Margaret Roach Wheeler. It was the first time a major museum had shown works in their collection of Indigenous garments, labeling them as "fashion".[8] Other Native designers of the 2000s include Orlando Dugi (Navajo), Dallin Maybee (Northern Arapaho/Seneca), Connie Gaussoin (Navajo/Picuris Pueblo), the street style of Douglas Miles of Apache Skateboards (San Carlos Apache/Akimel O'odham) and the custom shoes of Louie Gong (Nooksack/Squamish).[9] Dugi is self-taught in fashion, learning to sew, measure and create patterns from online resources.[10] Jamie Okuma (Luiseño/Shoshone-Bannock), another self-taught artist, became the youngest person to earn the Best of Show ribbon at the Santa Fe Indian Market in 2000.[11][12][13]
From the turn of the 21st century, there has been a resurgence in Latin America for Indigenous designs. The trend has been to partner with Indigenous communities of artisans to create fabrics for non-Native designers.[14][15][16][17][18] In many countries, the Indigenous heritage is seen as part of the national identity and there was little recognition that the design elements non-Native designers used and modified were part of the intellectual property of Indigenous communities. Designers often used remnants of textiles or cut-out embroidery on one garment to use on another. Imitations of Indigenous designs were ordered from labor markets in Asia. After 2010, the trend began to change with slow recognition that original Indigenous designs and designers should be respected.[1] One innovator in this period was Franklin Janeta (Puruhá), of Riobamba, Ecuador, who began working as an embroidery artisan as a child, and in 2000 opened Vispu, a store to market his designs. Modifying traditional clothing styles, he altered components like necklines and sleeve length to create more contemporary fashions.[19] Around the same time, Eliana Paco Paredes (Aymara) of Bolivia began to design fashions based on the traditional costumes of the cholitas, using wool or aguayo fabrics, but fusing them with lace or silk and decorating them with rhinestones and sequins. In 2016, after showing her work at Bolivian Fashion Week, she was invited to participate in New York Fashion Week.[20]
In Ecuador, Lucía Guillín (Puruhá) launched Churandy featuring the dress styles of Indigenous Andes communities with contemporary modifications in 2012. Her clothing lines have expanded to include blouses, jackets, and shorts featuring embroidery patterns and colors typical to the region.[21] The same year, Sisa Morocho (Puruhá) also launched her design company Sumak Churay in Quito, after studying fashion at the Ana MacAulife Institute. Her father's death had prompted her to leave the family hat business and branch out on her own. Using motifs from the Puruhá culture and adorning them with beads, embroidery, and sequins on brightly colored fabrics, she first sold blouses and then became known for dresses. In 2015, Morocho was able to open a second store featuring her designs in Riobamba.[22][23]
In 2013, Victoria Kakuktinniq (Inuit) founded Victoria's Arctic Fashion to market her designs. She creates fur and leather winterwear goods including headbands, jackets, gloves, and parkas, using sealskin and decorated with fox cuffs and embroidery.[24][25] In 2015, Kakuktinniq won the Business of the Year award from the Nunavut annual trade show.[26]
The Italian designing firm, Ermenegildo Zegna, opened a fashion institute in 2016, in the Azcapotzalco neighborhood of Mexico City with the goal of teaching the techniques of design to Indigenous women. Students enrolled were members of the Mazahua, Nahua, Otomí, Purépecha, Triqui and Tzeltal ethnic groups. The training the women received focused on tailoring techniques rather than on native design elements in an effort to allow the women to move from craftwork into the high fashion market.[27] That same year, Nala Peter (Inuit) began making sealskin bras and panties at the suggestion of her partner, link marketing them online and was invited to participate in the Floe Edge: Contemporary Art and Collaborations exhibition in Nunavut. Another exhibitor at the show was Nicole Camphaug (Inuit), who designs footwear with sealskin and fur heels and vamps.[28][24]
Vancouver hosted its first Indigenous Fashion Week in 2017 with designs from numerous First Nations designers, including Sho Sho Esquiro[13] (Kaska Dena/Cree), known for elaborately decorated gowns, enhanced with fur, beaver tail, salmon skin, feathers and shells combined with gold trim; Evan Ducharme (Métis), whose work focuses on sustainable and Eco-friendly design[29] and incorporates Métis elements like knotted belts based on fishing net techniques;[30] Jeneen Frei Njootli (Vuntut Gwitchin), who presented a collection using innovative design incorporating fur and hides; Autum Jules (Tlingit), noted for her use of textures and color to reflect the connection between people and the earth; Tyler-Alan Jacobs, (Squamish) whose designs reflect his identity as a two-spirit artist; and Alano Edzerza (Tahltan), known as a multi-media artist whose work incorporates silk-screened images of Native iconography on his garments.[29] Jill Setah (Yunesit'in) participated in the Vancouver event, after having showcased her works at both Oxford Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week.[30] Tishynah Buffalo (George Gordon), who lives in Alberta, Canada, was invited to participate in London Fashion Week in 2017, to showcase her innovative designs which often use Pendleton blankets and are decorated with beadwork and Cree floral patterns.[31] Helen Oro, (Pelican Lake), who designs fashion accessories, also participated in the event. Oro who has found ceremonial beading constricting, adds beadwork to glasses, headbands, heels and creates jewelry pieces.[31][32][33]
First Nations designers, including Sage Paul (Denesuline), launched the first Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto in 2018.[34]
Controversy
In 2017, Parisian designer Christian Louboutin drew criticism for paying Yucatec Maya artisans only 238 pesos (around $13 US) each for bags he sold for around $28,000 pesos (equivalent to $1,550 US). The controversy was sparked when activists called out Louboutin for exploiting the artisans. He paid for all of their materials and paid the workers 478 pesos per day for 6 hours of work, which compares to the average Mexican salary in the region of 80 pesos for 8 hours of work per day. The artisans were thankful for the work and the monies they received, but Louboutin's firm pulled the page advertising the bags from his website.[35][36] That same year, the Peruvian textile company Kuna withdrew a collection after complaints that the company had misappropriated kené designs from the Shipibo-Conibo people. The controversy motivated Congresswoman Tania Pariona Tarqui to introduce legislation to protect the cultural heritage and symbols of Indigenous communities in Peru.[37]
See also
References
Citations
- ^ a b Gómez 2011.
- ^ Martínez 2014.
- ^ Kemchs 2017.
- ^ El Diario de Chihuahua 2017.
- ^ Willmott 2016, p. 187.
- ^ Durnan 2013.
- ^ Willmott 2016, p. 188.
- ^ Metcalfe 2010, p. 243.
- ^ Metcalfe 2012b, p. 85.
- ^ Bennett-Begaye 2015, p. 95.
- ^ Grinberg 2013.
- ^ Indyke 2001.
- ^ a b "Native American Fashion's Best of the Best Hit the Runway in Santa Fe [30 Photos] – Indian Country Media Network". indiancountrymedianetwork.com. Retrieved 2018-01-17.
- ^ Aconcha 2014.
- ^ Resnik 2016.
- ^ Castellanos Usigli 2016.
- ^ Campos L. 2016.
- ^ Contacto Hoy 2017.
- ^ El Telégrafo 2017.
- ^ Prensa Libre 2016.
- ^ Alvarado 2015.
- ^ Márquez 2017.
- ^ Mendieta T. 2017.
- ^ a b Indian Country Today 2017.
- ^ Tamoto 2013.
- ^ Zerehi 2016.
- ^ Hernández 2016.
- ^ McCue 2016.
- ^ a b Collie 2017.
- ^ a b Narang 2017.
- ^ a b Bell 2017.
- ^ Mattern 2018.
- ^ James 2017.
- ^ Beaulne-Stuebing, Laura (26 March 2023). "Indigenous fashion designers aren't waiting for the industry to change — they're changing it themselves". CBC. Retrieved 12 November 2023.
- ^ Escobar & Rodríguez 2017.
- ^ Fregoso 2017.
- ^ La Vanguardia 2017.
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