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'''Valenciennes lace''' is a type of [[bobbin lace]] which originated in [[Valenciennes]], in the Nord département of [[France]], and flourished from about 1705 to 1780.<ref name="other book"/><ref name="OED">"Valenciennes." ''The Oxford English Dictionay''. 2nd ed. 1989.</ref><ref name="EB">{{cite encyclopedia |encyclopedia=Encyclopædia Britannica |title=Valenciennes lace |url=http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9074691/Valenciennes-lace |accessdate=2008-05-10 |edition=online}}</ref> Later production moved to [[Belgium]] in and around [[Ypres]].<ref name="EB1911 L"/><ref name="EB"/><ref name="Lace book">{{cite book|last=Sharp|first=Mary|coauthors=|editor=|title=Point and Pillow Lace|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=SjVqcPZF30cC&pg=PA105&dq=Valenciennes+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=UqxXFStcLAd6tp7iRcZlt4xTr9s|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2007|month=March|publisher=Herron Press|isbn=1406745626|pages=pp.102-106|quote=}}</ref> The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale.<ref name="EB"/> By the 19th century valenciennes lace could be made by machine.<ref name="other book">{{cite book|last=Haugland|first=Kristina|coauthors=|editor=|title=Grace Kelly: Icon of Style to Royal Bride|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=JE5ITOBYBJUC&pg=PT55&dq=Valenciennes+lace&client=opera&sig=hzoM-TOtQL13VZ5dCjc0SHqlLxk|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2006|month=May|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=0300116446|pages=p.48|quote=}}</ref>
'''Valenciennes lace''' is a type of [[bobbin lace]] which originated in [[Valenciennes]], in the Nord département of [[France]], and flourished from about 1705 to 1780.<ref name="other book"/><ref name="OED">"Valenciennes." ''The Oxford English Dictionay''. 2nd ed. 1989.</ref><ref name="EB">{{cite encyclopedia |encyclopedia=Encyclopædia Britannica |title=Valenciennes lace |url=http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9074691/Valenciennes-lace |accessdate=2008-05-10 |edition=online}}</ref> Later production moved to [[Belgium]] in and around [[Ypres]].<ref name="EB1911 L"/><ref name="EB"/><ref name="Lace book">{{cite book|last=Sharp|first=Mary|coauthors=|editor=|title=Point and Pillow Lace|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=SjVqcPZF30cC&pg=PA105&dq=Valenciennes+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=UqxXFStcLAd6tp7iRcZlt4xTr9s|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2007|month=March|publisher=Herron Press|isbn=1406745626|pages=102–106|quote=}}</ref> The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale.<ref name="EB"/> By the 19th century valenciennes lace could be made by machine.<ref name="other book">{{cite book|last=Haugland|first=Kristina|coauthors=|editor=|title=Grace Kelly: Icon of Style to Royal Bride|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=JE5ITOBYBJUC&pg=PT55&dq=Valenciennes+lace&client=opera&sig=hzoM-TOtQL13VZ5dCjc0SHqlLxk|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2006|month=May|publisher=Yale University Press|isbn=0300116446|pages=48|quote=}}</ref>


Valenciennes lace is made on a [[Bobbin lace|lace pillow]]<ref name="Lace book"/><ref name="p.20"/> in one piece, with the ''réseau'' (the net-like ground) being made at the same time as the ''toilé'' (the pattern).<ref name="other book"/><ref name="Lace book"/><ref name="p.20"/> It differentiates itself from other types of lace because the openness of the ''réseau'', the closeness and evenness of the ''toilé'', which resembles [[cambric]], and that it lacks any ''cordonnet'' (a loosely spun silk cord used to outline and define the pattern)<ref name="EB1911 L"/>.<ref name="Lace book"/><ref name="p.27">{{cite book|last=Powys|first=Marian|title=Lace and Lace Making|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=2G1sifycRUAC&pg=PA3&dq=making+Valenciennes+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=dmJ3lVQ2-d1avX25IA41pBPWuyU|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2002|month=March|publisher=Dover Publications|isbn=0486418111|pages=pp.27-29}}</ref> Also, in real Flemish Valenciennes lace there are no twisted sides to the mesh; all are closely plaited, and as a rule the shape of the mesh is diamond but without the openings.<ref name="EB1911 L">{{cite encyclopedia |encyclopedia= Encyclopædia Britannica|title=Lace|edition= 11th|}}</ref>
Valenciennes lace is made on a [[Bobbin lace|lace pillow]]<ref name="Lace book"/><ref name="p.20"/> in one piece, with the ''réseau'' (the net-like ground) being made at the same time as the ''toilé'' (the pattern).<ref name="other book"/><ref name="Lace book"/><ref name="p.20"/> It differentiates itself from other types of lace because the openness of the ''réseau'', the closeness and evenness of the ''toilé'', which resembles [[cambric]], and that it lacks any ''cordonnet'' (a loosely spun silk cord used to outline and define the pattern)<ref name="EB1911 L"/>.<ref name="Lace book"/><ref name="p.27">{{cite book|last=Powys|first=Marian|title=Lace and Lace Making|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=2G1sifycRUAC&pg=PA3&dq=making+Valenciennes+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=dmJ3lVQ2-d1avX25IA41pBPWuyU|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2002|month=March|publisher=Dover Publications|isbn=0486418111|pages=27–29}}</ref> Also, in real Flemish Valenciennes lace there are no twisted sides to the mesh; all are closely plaited, and as a rule the shape of the mesh is diamond but without the openings.<ref name="EB1911 L">{{cite encyclopedia |encyclopedia= Encyclopædia Britannica|title=Lace|edition= 11th|}}</ref>


The ''réseau'' ground is made of four threads braided together, with eight threads at the crosses,<ref name="p.20">{{cite book|last=Powys|first=Marian|title=Lace and Lace Making|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=2G1sifycRUAC&pg=PA3&dq=making+Valenciennes+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=dmJ3lVQ2-d1avX25IA41pBPWuyU|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2002|month=March|publisher=Dover Publications|isbn=0486418111|pages=p.20}}</ref> which makes it very strong and firm.<ref name="p.27"/> This is simpler and easier to make than the ground for [[Mechlin lace]], though similar in appearance.<ref name="p.27"/>
The ''réseau'' ground is made of four threads braided together, with eight threads at the crosses,<ref name="p.20">{{cite book|last=Powys|first=Marian|title=Lace and Lace Making|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=2G1sifycRUAC&pg=PA3&dq=making+Valenciennes+lace&lr=&as_brr=3&client=opera&sig=dmJ3lVQ2-d1avX25IA41pBPWuyU|accessdate=2008-05-10|year=2002|month=March|publisher=Dover Publications|isbn=0486418111|pages=20}}</ref> which makes it very strong and firm.<ref name="p.27"/> This is simpler and easier to make than the ground for [[Mechlin lace]], though similar in appearance.<ref name="p.27"/>


Valenciennes lace received an impetus in the seventeenth century, when the [[Scheldt]] was channelled for river navigation between [[Cambrai]] and [[Valenciennes]], benefiting the export of Valenciennes' wool, fabric and fine arts. To use up flax yarn, women began to make the famous Valenciennes lace. Early Valenciennes lace was grounded with fancy mesh which was thicker and closer than the open ''réseau'' used later. The more open version was developed in Valenciennes, and thus the type of lace became known under the name of the town.<ref name="Lace book"/> The open mesh started to evolve in the 18th century and by the 19th century the characteristic ground made of four braided threads was in use.<ref name="p.27"/> By the 1900s little of the famous lace was still made in Valenciennes.<ref name="EB1911 V">{{cite encyclopedia |encyclopedia= Encyclopædia Britannica|title=Valenciennes|edition= 11th|}}</ref>
Valenciennes lace received an impetus in the seventeenth century, when the [[Scheldt]] was channelled for river navigation between [[Cambrai]] and [[Valenciennes]], benefiting the export of Valenciennes' wool, fabric and fine arts. To use up flax yarn, women began to make the famous Valenciennes lace. Early Valenciennes lace was grounded with fancy mesh which was thicker and closer than the open ''réseau'' used later. The more open version was developed in Valenciennes, and thus the type of lace became known under the name of the town.<ref name="Lace book"/> The open mesh started to evolve in the 18th century and by the 19th century the characteristic ground made of four braided threads was in use.<ref name="p.27"/> By the 1900s little of the famous lace was still made in Valenciennes.<ref name="EB1911 V">{{cite encyclopedia |encyclopedia= Encyclopædia Britannica|title=Valenciennes|edition= 11th|}}</ref>

Revision as of 20:22, 23 December 2009

Valenciennes lace is a type of bobbin lace which originated in Valenciennes, in the Nord département of France, and flourished from about 1705 to 1780.[1][2][3] Later production moved to Belgium in and around Ypres.[4][3][5] The industry continued onto the 19th century on a diminished scale.[3] By the 19th century valenciennes lace could be made by machine.[1]

Valenciennes lace is made on a lace pillow[5][6] in one piece, with the réseau (the net-like ground) being made at the same time as the toilé (the pattern).[1][5][6] It differentiates itself from other types of lace because the openness of the réseau, the closeness and evenness of the toilé, which resembles cambric, and that it lacks any cordonnet (a loosely spun silk cord used to outline and define the pattern)[4].[5][7] Also, in real Flemish Valenciennes lace there are no twisted sides to the mesh; all are closely plaited, and as a rule the shape of the mesh is diamond but without the openings.[4]

The réseau ground is made of four threads braided together, with eight threads at the crosses,[6] which makes it very strong and firm.[7] This is simpler and easier to make than the ground for Mechlin lace, though similar in appearance.[7]

Valenciennes lace received an impetus in the seventeenth century, when the Scheldt was channelled for river navigation between Cambrai and Valenciennes, benefiting the export of Valenciennes' wool, fabric and fine arts. To use up flax yarn, women began to make the famous Valenciennes lace. Early Valenciennes lace was grounded with fancy mesh which was thicker and closer than the open réseau used later. The more open version was developed in Valenciennes, and thus the type of lace became known under the name of the town.[5] The open mesh started to evolve in the 18th century and by the 19th century the characteristic ground made of four braided threads was in use.[7] By the 1900s little of the famous lace was still made in Valenciennes.[8]

References

  1. ^ a b c Haugland, Kristina (2006). Grace Kelly: Icon of Style to Royal Bride. Yale University Press. p. 48. ISBN 0300116446. Retrieved 2008-05-10. {{cite book}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |coauthors= (help); Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  2. ^ "Valenciennes." The Oxford English Dictionay. 2nd ed. 1989.
  3. ^ a b c "Valenciennes lace". Encyclopædia Britannica (online ed.). Retrieved 2008-05-10.
  4. ^ a b c "Lace". Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). {{cite encyclopedia}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |1= (help)
  5. ^ a b c d e Sharp, Mary (2007). Point and Pillow Lace. Herron Press. pp. 102–106. ISBN 1406745626. Retrieved 2008-05-10. {{cite book}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |coauthors= (help); Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  6. ^ a b c Powys, Marian (2002). Lace and Lace Making. Dover Publications. p. 20. ISBN 0486418111. Retrieved 2008-05-10. {{cite book}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  7. ^ a b c d Powys, Marian (2002). Lace and Lace Making. Dover Publications. pp. 27–29. ISBN 0486418111. Retrieved 2008-05-10. {{cite book}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  8. ^ "Valenciennes". Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). {{cite encyclopedia}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |1= (help)
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