Another torsion bar question... (1 Viewer)

[jayandcourt]

Okay Guys I've looked and looked but unable to find an answer to this question. I have a 2001 landcruiser that is sporting the stinkbug look badly. So after reading the threads I decided to lift it 1.5 inches or so to look slightly more leveled out. I jacked up the vehicle and accomplished 3.5 turns with the passengers side. Proud of my accomplishment, I moved to the drivers side and wasn't able to budge. I soaked all moving parts with pb blast and began to see some movement. I continued to work and work with a cheater bar and even impact gun to hopefully break free any rust, in which there is none. The bolt and screw are completely free of rust. I can get no more then a 1/4 of a turn from drivers side. Any advice will be greatly appreciated?

 

[Palmer]

Dumb question, but is it bottomed out?

 

[FLWookie]

You are jacking the front of the truck off the ground to relieve that extra stress on the TB, prior to trying to adjust, correct? Is there still thread left on the adjustment bolt to go up tighter?

If they are bottomed out already, you may need to re-clock your torsion bars to account for the sagging they've developed over the last 16 years, or consider buying new OEM style bars to refresh them.

 

[aljollano]

If you are max on the bolt you need to reindex.

A.J

 

[jayandcourt]

There is still room on the bolt for adjustments couple inches on the top and about 1/2 on the bottom of the bolt... yes I did jack the front of the lc up to relieve stress..

 

[ga12r1]

There is still room on the bolt for adjustments couple inches on the top and about 1/2 on the bottom of the bolt... yes I did jack the front of the lc up to relieve stress..

Have you tried backing it off? 1/2 of thread isn’t much. If it backs out easy but won’t tighten anymore I would say you are out of thread. If you can back it off easy you just need to re-index.

 

[jayandcourt]

 

[jayandcourt]

Sorry for the poor image quality I was at work and couldn’t crawl under vehicle, it will back off about 1/2 thread but then it acts like it comes to abrupt halt. There seems to be much more thread above the picture posted...

 

[FLWookie]

Likely a corrosion issue. I had to use a 36" breaker bar with a cheater to get my driver side off for my lift and my truck is VERY rusty.

 

[ga12r1]

I had a adjusting bolt seize on me when I installed the OME bars on my LX. I ended up having to cut out the bolt and anchor and replace them.

When I installed the new bolt and anchor I made sure to use anti-seize on the bolt. I also used a bottle jack to preload the adjuster arm and take all of the pressure off the bolt when I ran it up. That made the initial rough adjustment easier. Once I had it up where I thought it was close I removed the bottle jack and made the final adjuments with the bolt.

 

[jayandcourt]

I had a adjusting bolt seize on me when I installed the OME bars on my LX. I ended up having to cut out the bolt and anchor and replace them.

When I installed the new bolt and anchor I made sure to use anti-seize on the bolt. I also used a bottle jack to preload the adjuster arm and take all of the pressure off the bolt when I ran it up. That made the initial rough adjustment easier. Once I had it up where I thought it was close I removed the bottle jack and made the final adjuments with the bolt.

Do you happen to know of a write up with the part numbers??

 

[ga12r1]

Here are the parts I used to replace the torsion bar adjusting bolt and anchor I had to cut out ..

48169-60010 Swivel Anchor, $41.85
90101-18010 Hex Bolt, $7.33

 

[ga12r1]

I didn’t have a torch so I used a sawzall.

 

[jayandcourt]

Looks like this will be my plan of attack

 

[REZARF]

Ouch, that sucks.

 

[ga12r1]

Looks like this will be my plan of attack

I finally decided to cut it out after busting a 1/2 drive breaker bar trying to back the bolt off. Maybe a 3/4 set would have done it but I didn’t have that in hand and I’m sure it would have been a long hard process anyway. I ground off the bolt head twice thinking I could get it out without cutting the anchor. After all of that there still wasn’t enough clearance to get out the anchor. If I would have broke out the sawzall first it would have saved a lot of time and frustration. Once I committed to the saw it was fairly easy.

That’s been the only time working on my cruisers that I wished I had a cutting torch. The old smoke-wrench would have took about 15 seconds.

 

[landshark9]

@ga12r1
When you cut through this was it loaded up with "torsion?" I'm picturing that thing blowing apart like a mini missile...I need to get after mine once the parts arrive