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How to Plant and Grow Carrots from Seed: Tips for Success

A close up of a large wooden bowl full of yellow, orange, and reddish purple carrots sits on a patio garden table, with raised beds and potted plants in the background.

Come learn everything you need to know to successfully grow big, beautiful carrots from seed. We’ll explore when and how to plant carrots, our favorite varieties to grow, and important tips for thinning, water, and soil needs. I’ll also cover tips for growing carrots in containers, when and how to harvest carrots, and the best ways to store or preserve them to make them last!

Carrots have always been one of my favorite things to grow in the garden. They’re beautiful, delicious, versatile in the kitchen, last a long time in storage, and are bothered by few pests. The flavor of homegrown carrots can’t be beat, and they’re possibly one of the most fun and rewarding things to harvest! With our tips for success, you’ll be unearthing and enjoying your own long, crunchy beauties in no time. 

Note: This post was originally published in May 2019.

DeannaCat holding a bunch of freshly harvest orange carrots by their green tops. In the foreground is a raised bed full of carrots and beets while a variety of flowers and vegetable grow in raised beds beyond.

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Carrot Varieties


Orange, red, purple, yellow, white… We love to grow several varieties of carrots in one garden bed or plot for a fun colorful harvest!

  • Popular carrot varieties include Scarlet Nantes, Danvers, Imperator, and pretty Cosmic Purple.
  • A few of our current favorites are Bangor, Bolero, Bollin, Sugarsnax, Rubypak and Yellow Moon.
  • If you’re new to growing carrots and don’t want to buy several seed packs to start, consider something like this gorgeous rainbow Starburst blend.
  • Growing a few varieties of carrots with different days to maturity enables you to have a staggered harvest instead of all at once.
  • Folks with short growing seasons (or those getting a late start) could consider smaller, early-maturing varieties like Yaya or “Little Finger” baby carrots.

See a full list of the best places to buy heirloom, non-GMO and organic garden seeds here.


An array of a variety of harvested carrots ranging in color from orange, white, purple, and bright red.


When to Plant Carrots


  • Generally considered a cool-season crop, it’s best to plant carrots in early spring or fall in most climates. However, places with mild summers or temperate winters can potentially grow carrots year-round. That’s what we do here on the Central Coast of California! 

  • For an early summer harvest, plant carrot seeds outside in the spring about 2 to 3 weeks before the last frost date, ideally once the soil has warmed to at least 45°F. 

  • For a fall harvest, plant carrot seeds in the late summer to early fall – about 10 to 12 weeks before your average first frost date if possible. 

  • Here in zone 9, we often plant carrots in mid fall to harvest all winter long. They grow more slowly during the shorter days of winter, but can survive temperatures down to 20°F! They get even sweeter after a kiss of frost.

  • The ideal soil temperature for carrot seed germination (and general growth) is 55 to 75°F, though they’ll sprout in soil as cool as 40°F, albeit more slowly. Temperatures over 80°F can inhibit sprouting or slow growth. 

  • Frost dates vary by location and growing zone (and year to year), so check out our free planting calendars for more details. They’re available for every USDA growing zone!

  • Carrot seeds are best directly sown outside, and can take 3 to 4 months to mature before harvest. See tips on exactly how to plant carrot seeds below.

A planting calendar for zone 8 showing when to start seeds inside, transplant, or plant seeds outside, for a variety of vegetable along with the first and last frost dates.
Get a free seed starting and planting calendar for every zone here!


Preparing Soil Before Planting


The right soil consistency is arguably one of the most important factors to successfully grow carrots. Carrots grow best in a loose, fluffy, well-draining soil that allows their long roots to grow deeply with ease. If soil is too compact, chunky, or rocky, carrots will be short, twisted or otherwise stunted.

While we usually aren’t huge fans of tilling soil, it may be necessary for your carrot bed. If your soil isn’t already fairly loose, work the soil to at least one foot deep to loosen it, such as with a broad fork. Remove any large rocks and break up clumps. Amend clay or compact soil with potting soil, compost, and/or horticultural sand as needed.

After loosening the soil, water deeply (especially if the soil is dry). This reduces the amount you’ll need to water immediately after planting seeds.


An empty raised garden bed with furrows dug in rows.
Freshly amended, watered, and ready to plant carrots. I like to line my carrot rows/furrows with a little seed starting mix to aid in easy germination, explained more below.


Carrots and Fertilizer


Carrots do not need particularly rich soil to thrive. They prefer moderate levels of phosphorus (P), high potash (K) but low nitrogen (N) – so avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer when growing carrots! Using too much nitrogen or strong manure-based compost will promote tall leafy tops but make the carrots themselves grow funky and branch, split, or develop excess legs.

Instead, amend the soil with a well-balanced, mild slow-release organic fertilizer and/or well-aged compost, worked in the top few inches of soil and watered in before planting.


Two baskets of freshly harvested carrots are sitting on a raised bed.


How to Plant Carrot Seeds


Carrots grow best when seeds are planted outside in the garden, aka direct sowed. Like most root crops, they do not transplant well. Therefore, it’s not recommended to start carrots indoors or in seedling trays.

Tiny carrot seeds should be surface sown (meaning sprinkled or lightly pressed into the top of soil) or just barely covered with a very thin layer of soil (1/4” inch or less). I prefer to lightly cover carrot seeds to prevent them from drying out, blowing away, or moving around when watered. They will not sprout if they’re buried too deep

To plant carrots, you can either sow seeds in neat rows or use what I call the “scatter method” – by lightly scattering seeds across a wider surface area of soil. See tips for each option below.

We’ve planted carrots both ways over the years with success. I tend to scatter seed when growing carrots in small raised beds, pots, or wine barrel planters, but prefer to plant them in rows in our larger raised beds along the drip irrigation lines.

After planting carrot seeds, it’s essential that the top of the soil (and seeds) stay consistently damp in order to sprout. Germination (sprouting) may take anywhere from 1 to 3 weeks, depending on the soil conditions, moisture, and temperature. See important tips about watering carrots to follow.


A hand holds 5 packages of carrot seeds. They read cosmic purple, dolciva, sweet nantes. Some are orange, red, purple and yellow.


Planting Carrots in Rows

  • To plant carrots in rows, mark row lines or create very shallow furrows in the soil spaced about 4 to 6 inches apart. You may also see recommendations to space rows of carrots up to 12 to 18 inches apart for traditional in-ground row crops, but they can be spaced much closer in home gardens and raised beds.

  • I like to line each furrow with a sprinkle of seed starting mix or fluffy potting soil, which is much easier for the carrot seeds to sprout in compared to the chunky compost that’s otherwise on top of our raised beds.

  • Lightly sprinkle the carrot seeds along each row, aiming for a couple seeds every inch or so. Avoid sowing too heavily since you’ll need to thin them out to one sprout every 2 inches later.

  • Either leave the seeds uncovered, or lightly cover them with less than ⅛” to ¼” of soil. I gently pinch the seed starting mix in each furrow around the seeds after sowing. Do not compact.


One hand is holding seeds while the other hand is spreading seeds into a small furrow.
Sprinkling carrot seeds along each furrow or row.
Tiny carrot seedlings are sprouting in rows along drip tape lines inside of a garden bed.
A few weeks later, after sprouting.


Planting Carrots with the Scatter Method

  • Rather than tidy rows, you can also scatter carrots seeds across a small garden bed, container or planter to maximize the full growing space. To do so, simply sprinkle the seeds on top of the soil. 

  • Again, don’t go too heavy with the seeds since you’ll want to thin them later to provide adequate spacing. Aim for a light even coverage with a couple seeds every inch or so.

  • When planting several carrot varieties using the scatter method, I go fairly light with each variety, knowing the total amount of seeds will add up.

  • After scattering carrot seeds, I like to follow up with a light sprinkle of potting soil or seed starting mix on top to barely cover them and then water gently.


Small sprouts growing in a raised bed, scattered throughout the growing space.
Scattered carrots sprouting


Watering Carrots


After planting carrot seeds, gently water the soil surface. Avoid blasting them with a strong stream of water, or allowing the water to pool. Otherwise, the seeds will float or move around, causing them to cluster and ruin your nice even spacing.

During germination, keep the seeds moist at all times. You don’t need to water deeply or heavily at this point, just enough so the soil surface doesn’t dry out. I use a watering can or gentle hose sprayer to lightly water every day (or every few days, depending on conditions) for the first few weeks to encourage sprouting, then let the automated drip irrigation take over thereafter.

After sprouting, provide carrots with deep regular water. Carrots love water! The deeper they have access to water, the bigger and better they’ll grow. Watering time and needs will vary with climate, and will increase as they get larger in size. Rather than watering from above (which can mat down tall carrot greens and increase risk of fungal disease) we like to use drip irrigation in our raised beds to provide consistent water right at the soil level.

Have you ever harvested hairy carrots? That’s usually caused from lack of sufficient water! The carrot itself is a root, but if it’s starving for water, it will send out little feeder roots in search of more. Hairy carrots are still edible (albeit less crisp and juicy) and a good indicator that you’ve been under-watering.

TIP: Another way to keep carrot seeds damp during germination is to cover the carrot bed with a layer of cardboard or burlap to reduce evaporation, either laid across the bed frame or gently on top of the soil. Check under the cover every few days and remove at the first signs of sprouting.


Carrot seedlings growing along irrigation lines of drip tape inside a raised garden bed.
Several weeks later, at a good size to thin the seedlings.


Thinning Carrots


The recommended spacing for carrots is about 2 inches apart. Once the greens are about 3 to 4 inches tall, gently pull or pluck out extra seedlings – leaving the largest, healthiest looking ones to grow. Don’t skip this step! While tedious, thinning is KEY to growing big healthy carrots.

The process of thinning ensures that the roots aren’t overly crowded, and instead, that each carrot has sufficient space to grow to its fullest potential. When left crowded, carrots compete for space, nutrients, and water, and will stay significantly smaller and sometimes twist around one another. 


Carrot seedlings grow along drip tape lines inside of a raised garden bed, nicely thinned and spaced to 1 plant every inch or two.
Nicely spaced carrots. A couple are still just a tad crowded, but I can harvest those early as baby carrots – which doubles as thinning.


Protecting Carrots from Heat or Frost


Carrots thrive in a temperature range of 55 to 75°F. An occasional hot day isn’t a big deal, though sustained temperatures over 80°F can negatively impact the quality and production of carrots, resulting in bitter flavors and slower growth. 

One way to keep carrots cool is to cover them with shade cloth as needed. In warmer climates, you could also plant carrots in a location that receives partial afternoon shade. 

Carrots are generally frost-tolerant and can easily withstand a light frost (down to about 28°F) without protection. However, it’s best to cover carrots if temperatures are going to dip in the mid 20s or lower. Freezing weather will affect carrot tops the most, as the roots are much more protected in the soil. 

We like to use these garden hoops over our raised beds, which we can use to support either shade cloth, frost cloth, or insect netting to protect our plants.


Several wood raised garden beds are covered with hoops and black shade cloth covers to protect the seedlings growing in the beds from heat and  pests.
Protecting our cool-season crops with shade cloth during a fall heat wave


Carrot Pest and Disease Control


Thankfully, carrots are a fairly low-maintenance crop that aren’t bothered by too many pests or diseases. 

A few common carrot pests include whitefly, aphids, carrot weevils, carrot rust flies, flea beetles, root-knot nematodes and cutworms. In our garden, we’ll often find aphids clustered on the base of the greens near the soil line, so check there on occasion. Treat with organic DIY aphid soap spray as needed, which is effective for all soft-bodied insects such as aphids, whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs.

Covering beds with hoops and insect netting is a great way to protect carrots from a wide variety of pests, including insects or larger critters like birds, squirrels, rabbits, or deer that may be attracted to the carrot tops or damage young sprouts.

A number of diseases can affect carrots, including blight, bacterial rot, and fungal diseases. Our carrot greens often get powdery mildew after a couple months of growth. The mildew is never bad enough to negatively impact the carrots themselves, but can make it impossible for us to use the carrot greens (bummer).


A grey tabby cat sitting amongst greens growing in a garden.
What an adorable carrot pest! 😻


Growing Carrots in Containers


Yes, you can grow carrots in containers too! For the best results, choose a pot or container that is at least a foot deep and has adequate drainage. We like to plant carrots in half wine barrels, but something smaller than that would work too.

When growing carrots in containers, the same best practices for soil, planting, fertilizer, and other tips described in this article apply just the same. However, keep in mind that some containers will dry out more quickly than raised beds or in-ground gardens (especially fabric grow bags), so you may have to increase water frequency to keep the soil modestly damp at all times.


A half wine barrel planter with carrots growing out of it are in the foreground, beyond are a number of garden beds with a variety of vegetables growing inside of them.
A wine barrel planter full of carrots in our old front yard garden


Harvesting Carrots


Now, for the best part! Carrots can take 2 to 4 months to grow from seed to harvest, but they’re well worth the wait. Time to maturity will depend on the variety, weather, soil conditions, and your watering practices. You can wait until carrots reach full size, or start harvesting some younger ones early as “baby carrots” for a staggered harvest.

Sometimes, carrots make it quite obvious they’re ready ready for harvest, with thick orange tops poking up out of the soil! Other times, the carrots may stay more buried so gently explore around the top of the carrot at the soil line. If you see some nice round carrot tops forming, give a few test carrots a pull and see how they’re looking! If they’re all still fairly small, give them some more time.

To harvest carrots, you should be able to gently pull up on the greens with a little wiggle. Digging isn’t recommended since it could damage or break the carrots. Another trick is to first press downwards on the carrot by about an inch (which loosens the soil around it) and then pull it up with more ease.


A hand moves soil away from the top of a growing carrot to illustrate its size.


How to Store Carrots After Harvest


After harvesting carrots, it’s best to remove the green tops prior to storage. Otherwise, the greens will rot quickly and yuck everything up. It’s easy to simply twist them off. However, the greens are edible and need not go to waste! See ideas for how to use carrot greens below. If you don’t want to eat them, at least try to compost them.  

While some resources advise against it, we find that rinsing carrots with water after harvest helps them stay more crisp and last far longer in storage. 

The best way to store carrots is in a sealed plastic bag (or other fairly airtight containers) in the refrigerator. We add add just a little splash of water in the bag, and our carrots stay crisp and crunchy for MONTHS in the fridge. 

It’s important to get them into the fridge soon after harvest to prevent them from going limp. Harvesting carrots during cooler weather also helps them stay firm, such as first thing in the morning.

Another option is to store carrots inside a root storage bin, covered in lightly damp sand and tucked away in a cool dark place. A cool basement or root cellar is perfect! They should also hold up well this way for months.

For even longer term storage, see ideas to preserve carrots in the section below.

A large 4x8' wood frame with wire fencing on top of it, laying on the ground. On top it is covered with a long row of clean carrots, that had just been sprayed off on this makeshift washing station.
Our makeshift washing station. A 2×4″ wood frame with wire over it – previously created for another project, but it works perfectly for rinsing carrots after harvest!
A wicker basket and a large wooden bowl are full of harvested carrots with their green tops removed. The carrots range in color from orange, white, yellow, to purple.
Greens removed and ready for storage.


Can You Eat Carrot Greens?


Yes, carrot greens are edible! In fact, carrot greens are full of vitamin A and C, dietary fiber, calcium, iron, potassium, chlorophyll, antioxidants, and other nutrients with health-promoting benefits. While their flavor is a bit earthy and strong, but there are plenty of tasty ways to utilize them:

  • Juice them in your favorite juicer! Carrot tops are a great addition to green juice.
  • Make carrot green pesto. You can use our delicious “besto pesto” recipe with carrot tops.
  • Similarly, there are quite a few recipes for carrot green chimichurri out there.
  • Use them along with other veggie scraps to create a pot of homemade vegetable broth.
  • Chop them up fresh and use them sparingly as a garnish or seasoning, as you would with other fresh herbs. For example, a little carrot greens sprinkled over a bowl of soup or salad, incorporated into a chickpea or egg salad.


Unfortunately, we don’t always get to make use of our carrot greens since they often get a decent case of powdery mildew by harvest time.

A large garden with many raised beds, in a U-shaped. The beds are redwood, and two feet tall. In the background are tall kale plants and flowers, with the setting sun shining through. In the foreground, one of the tall raised beds is full of carrot greens. A chicken is leaping up in the air to try to eat the carrot greens through the fencing that surrounds the bed.
Chickens love carrot greens too! Hennifer goes to great efforts to keep the perimeter of this bed pruned for us.


Ways to Eat Carrots


  • Of course, one of the best ways to enjoy carrots is fresh. Especially homegrown! The flavor and texture can’t be beat. We love to snack on carrots plain, dipped in hummus, on salad, sliced thin on sandwiches, or my personal favorite – dipped in peanut butter.
  • Cooked carrots are also fantastic. We enjoy them cut into rounds or sticks, sautéed in a little olive oil or butter with salt, pepper, and other seasonings of choice. We also love oven-roasted carrots.
  • Like their greens, carrots are great juiced as well. In addition to enjoying plain carrot juice, I like to add it to homemade kombucha with ginger and/or turmeric as a tasty second ferment flavor.
  • Let’s not forget baked goods! Use homegrown grated carrots in carrot cake, carrot bread, muffins, and more.
  • Carrots are also wonderful in homemade vegetable broth or soups, like our killer creamy roasted carrot and sweet potato soup recipe.

A bowl of creamy soup sits next to a cutting board with a loaf of sourdough bread with two slices of bread laid out next to it.
Creamy roasted carrot and sweet potato soup – the perfect dish on a chilly evening, and ideal to freeze for future easy meals!


Ways to Preserve Carrots


If you grow more carrots than you can consume fresh in a timely manner, there are numerous ways to preserve them.


Slice and shredded roots in freezer containers and a silicone bag. Some sliced roots are on a baking sheet that have been frozen.


And that concludes this lesson on growing carrots.


All in all, carrots are a fun, beautiful, fairly easy crop to grow – especially now that you’re armed with all the best tips! If you have been struggling with growing carrots in the past, I hope this article helped. Please leave a comment with any questions you may have. Thanks for tuning in!


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Deannacats signature- Keep on Growing

Deanna Talerico (aka DeannaCat) is a garden educator and writer with over 15 years experience in organic gardening. She is a retired Senior Environmental Health Specialist, and holds a M.A. in Environmental Studies and B.S. in Sustainability and Natural Resources.

32 Comments

  • Becca

    Hi Deanna,
    How do you know when to harvest other than when the top of the carrot is peeking out the soil? I have carrots growing that I planted over two months ago that are still quite small.
    Also, many of my carrots have really thick, tall (2-3 ft!) leafs/greens that have flowered and have really thick stems attached to the carrot. Is this normal??

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Becca, if you can’t see the size of the carrots from above the soil, we would typically harvest a few to see if they are ready to harvest. Carrots can take some time growing so two months isn’t that long as some varieties can take at least 90 days, we still have carrots in our garden right now that we planted at some point during spring, granted, they are mostly full sized and we have been harvesting carrots over the last month or so. In regards to your carrots flowering, if they were started from seed this year, they shouldn’t be flowering as carrots are biennials, they grow a root the first year and if left in the ground, they will flower during their second year of growth. We have seen some carrot varieties have really thick and leafy greens so I wouldn’t be too concerned, patience is key with carrots. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • Sara S.

    Hi guys!

    As always, love your content and thanks to your information and guidance I’m having a great time learning how to start my garden!
    A few carrot questions for you and one compost-related question:
    Carrot Q#1: Based on the growing info from SeedsNow provided for the carrots I’m growing, my carrots should have reached maturity as of last month. I pulled some out today to thin them further and the ones I pulled are still pretty small. Do you have a recommendation on how much longer I should wait before attempting to harvest them?
    Carrot Q#2: How can I encourage more growth to ensure I get the best yield at harvest? should I be trimming the carrot greens to encourage new green growth or will that NEGATIVELY affect my carrots’ growth?
    I will be watering my carrots with compost tea for the first time since planting them in February, but I have been feeding them Neptune’s harvest fish and seaweed fertilizers, hoping that will be a good improvement!

    Compost Q: I might have missed this somewhere in your posts, but can you share more on what you mean when you say “well-matured” compost? I have a worm bin that is pretty well established (thanks to you guys!) and I have started being able to tell when the soil has worm castings versus when it doesn’t (it visually looks darker, richer, and fluffier). As I’ve been potting up my seedlings and young plants, I dip into the worm bin and sift out the bigger pieces to end up with the fluffy worm castings/dirt. I then add that into my potting soil to enrich it for my incoming plants. How does one achieve well-matured compost/worm castings? I appreciate your help and insight!

    Thank you!! Also, so happy Badger is doing alright!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Sarah, we are so glad you enjoy our content and we appreciate your support, Badger is doing great so thank you for that! As far as you carrot questions go, we don’t really pay too much attention to the days to maturity that are on seed packets as they are almost always a little too optimistic. We do pay attention to the days to maturity when it comes to tomatoes or for people who garden in colder climates who have a shorter growing season. I am sure we harvest most of our veggies after the “days to maturity” that are on the seed packs. We harvest the carrots when they are a good size and resemble the variety that we are growing.

      In regards to your second carrot question, it sounds like you are doing more than enough to ensure a good carrot harvest. We don’t typically do a whole lot for carrots after they are sown aside from thinning them out. We let our soil in the raised beds do the work, if we are lucky, we can get in a compost tea or two before they are harvested. I wouldn’t trim the carrot greens and I think doing what your are doing should be more than enough for a bountiful harvest.

      As far as compost goes, we are mostly referring to compost or animal manures that need to age before you can use them in the garden. Chicken manure especially should be composted for at least 3-4 months before applying it to garden soil. Worm castings are great to use right out of the bin so no worries there. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • sally

    Thanks so much for this Deanna. I’ve tried growing carrots twice. They were not the prettiest, straightest carrots but they sure tasted good. I grew mokums. I was wondering why my carrots were notl ong and straight, and your lomy fluffy soil recommendation is what I expected. I will try tha and plant some seeds now (I’m in So Ca near coast). Nothing better than good carrots. O think my other problem after reading this is that I did not thin them. Such great advice. Thanks again!

    I have a few good carrot recipes on my site too. I’m not sure if it’s ok to list that here so you can delete if inappropriate. Love your site ! afoodcentriclife.com

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Sally, yes, thinning carrots is key, they also won’t be as straight if there are a lot of rocks in the soil which can restrict their growth. Hope that helps and hopefully you have better luck growing carrots this season!

  • Bre Schumann

    Hi Deanna,

    What about sunlight? I have few full-sun spots in my yard so I’m wondering just how much sun carrots need?

    Also, can you please recommend a store-bought soil for carrots? I think what I have in my raised beds is too chunky. I usually mix raised bed soil and organic compost (bagged from Lowes) together.

    Also, where can I get untreated straw for mulch… I don’t want to call around to farms, I just want to drive to a store and buy it 😉

    Thanks!

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Bre, we have grown carrots in areas that receive part sun and they do just fine so you can reserve the full sun garden spaces for the more sun loving crops. Our raised bed soil is usually fairly chunky as well and we have had carrot seeds sprout fairly successfully in it, we now typically make furrows for the seeds in the raised bed soil, after sowing the seeds, we lightly sprinkle fluffy potting soil or even seedling soil over the top of them for germination. As far as untreated straw for mulch, I would check out your local feed stores to see what type of straw they have available and if they know if it has been treated or not. There are options to purchase untreated straw online but they can be a bit expensive and cumbersome to receive via shipping. Hope that helps and have fun growing!

  • Cindy

    I planted my carrots almost two months ago (mid-March) It took forever for them to even germinate, and even now, the tops are still only about an inch high. They’re just now starting to get their secondary leaves. I’ve never grown them before so I have no idea if such slow growth is normal, or if I’m doing something wrong…

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hi Cindy, what hardiness zone are you growing in? The temperatures may have been too cold for the carrots to germinate and grow well until now. Carrots can be tricky to germinate and we have had some seasons of uneven germination depending on the variety of carrot. We’ve had varied success rates depending on the variety of carrot we grow, Nantes and Cosmic Purple being our two favorites that usually do the best for us. Just keep your carrots fairly well watered and hopefully they start to take off as the temperature warms. We will usually thin out our carrot seedlings as well in hopes of having larger carrots. Hope that helps and have fun growing.

  • Kelley

    I would cut a few leafs every morning and give them to my bunnies. The orange part of the carrot is only good for them as a treat and only a small price but the tops are great for them

  • Joni

    I’ve grown carrots year round in a felt patio planter pot. Found out the hard way that thinning is a must. They totally grow around each othering you don’t. (Still edible!) I live on the CA central coast which is pretty consistent weather.

  • Sandy Forest

    Thank you! My carot cnsumption has jumped this past year and I wil find this article very useful!

    I did not see a section on seed saving, and I wonder if you have tried this with your carot crops?

    • Aaron (Mr. DeannaCat)

      Hello Sandy, glad you found the article helpful! We have not tried to seed save from carrots yet, as we typically don’t even see our carrots start flowering before we harvest them (even after them being in the ground for some time). Good luck!

      • di laur

        Carrots do not produce seed until the second year…
        A horrible pest that I have is wireworms…yuck
        I also lay a board over the seeds until they start to germinate and that helps with the moisture and keeping the birds out of the seeds.

  • Arthur

    I badly wanted to grow carrots in my vegetable garden, I had no idea how. Thanks to this blog post it really helps a lot.

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