Where is Gion, Kyoto's Major Geisha District?

Gion is the most prestigious geisha district in Japan which was established during the Edo period in the 17th century.The area is right in front of Yasaka shrine since the shrine’s pilgrims needed an entertainment area where they could take a rest, drink, eat, relax, and prepare for the journey back home. In 1871, Yasaka Shrine, which used to be called the Gion Shrine, was recognized as the kanpei-taisha (the highest ranking government supported shrine). Afterwards, a number of tea houses near the shrine were built and many geisha started serving tea to visitors. During the Meiji period, there would be over 700 teahouses and over 3000 geiko and maiko inside Gion. In 1881 Gion was separated into two parts, Gion Kobu (The Western side of the Hanamikoji Street) and Gion Higashi (The Eastern side of the Hanamikoji Street).

Nowadays, Gion Kobu is inhabited by about 70 geiko and 30 maiko, and they work at 60 teahouses. The map below shows the southern side of Gion Kobu also known as Gion Minamigawa which is the area visited by most tourists. While this part of Gion is most popular housing the Kenninji Temple with Zen Gardens and Kyoto’s oldest geisha house Ichriki Chaya, the other side of Shijo Street known as Gion Shirakawa is called the most beautiful street in Kyoto. Gion Kobu’s geiko and maiko study the Inoue school of dance which is influenced by Noh theatre. The geiko and maiko of Gion kobu also present the Miyako Odori stage performance every April. The crest of Gion kobu represents a dango (sweet rice cakes) skewer with “Ko” sign inside.

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Major Geisha Districts in Kyoto

Kyoto has 5 hanamachi, each with their own history and flavours. Collectively they are known as the Gokagai (五花街), which means “Five Flower Towns.” The Gion geisha district is considered to be the most popular among locals and international travelers. The oldest geisha district is Kamishichiken but it is not well-known as it is outside the city center. Pontocho geisha district is the one closest to the city center. It is near the Pontocho canal which was used by rich merchants to transport goods from Osaka during the Meiji period who were entertained by the geisha in the nearby teahouses. Miyagawacho geisha district is right by Minamiza Kabuki Theater as in Japan it is custom for kabuki artists to hangout with the geisha. In the map below you can only see 4 areas as the Gion district is shown as one area even though it consists of two separate districts: Gion Kobu and Gion Higashi.

The largest and most prestigious of them all is Gion Kobu (祇園甲部). Located beside Yasaka Shrine, it was once a single hanamachi together with its neighbour, Gion Higashi (祇園東), but the split occurred in a fantastical fashion. In 1872 the capital had recently been moved to Tokyo from Kyoto, and Kyoto was experiencing a drop in tourism and its economy was on a downturn. To remedy this issue Kyoto would hold a World Expo that would bring people from around the world to see the wonders that Kyoto had to offer. In order to wow the spectators the governor and the mayor of Kyoto asked the head of a prestigious dance school, Yachiyo Inoue (井上八千代) of the the Inoue School of Dance (井上流), to choreograph and stage a set of dances so that average people could see real geisha dancing for the first time without an invitation to an ochaya. The expo lasted for just over a year, and at the end the dances proved to be the biggest success of all. To show their gratitude to Yachiyo Inoue the governor and the mayor would honour any single wish that she had. Her request was to divide eight neighbourhoods from the total area of Gion and make it into a new hanamachi where only her school of dance would be taught. The new area, Gion Kobu, means “First Class Gion,” and continues to be renowned around the world for its annual dances that take place each April called the Miyako Odori (都をどり), which is known as the “Dances of The Old Capital” in Japanese and the “Cherry Blossom Dances” to English audiences. The symbol of Gion Kobu is eight interlinked dumplings with the “甲”character in the middle.

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Is memoirs of geisha based on true story?

No, it is not based on a true story. However, a real geisha, named Mineko Iwasaki, sued the author of the book because of defamation. Surprisingly, not the plot, but some characters in the book resembled some of the real characters in Mineko Iwasaki’s life that she shared with the author in a private conversation. Also Mineko Iwasaki was uncomfortable with the way Arthur Golden (the author) portrayed geisha as if they are Japanese courtesans.

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The Karyukai (what is Ochaya, Okiya, Gohanya)

The Karyukai (花柳界)

meaning “The Flower and Willow World,” is the collective name for the areas in which geisha and the traditional establishments where they entertain are located. All hanamachi belong to the karyukai. Its name comes from the oiran and the geisha who once worked side by side in these areas.
The oiran was the opulent flower whose life was fleeting whereas the geisha is the willow whose bends to serve any customer and grows more sturdy with age.Unlike the majority of Japan, it is women who run the karyūkai and all establishments found within it. It is a matriarchy that retains unbroken lines of succession by either producing blood heirs or adopting women, most often geisha, as daughters to take over the business.

Found within the karyukai are the following enterprises:
Okiya (置屋) Ochaya (お茶屋) Gohanya (御飯屋) Kenban (検番) Kaburenjō (歌舞練場)

Okiya (置屋)

The lodging houses at which maiko and geisha live. They are run by a woman known as an Okaasan (お母さん), which means “Mother.” She will look after her charges as if they were her real daughters, which includes clothing them, feeding them, and keeping track of their engagements. She will also stand in for them should any dispute arise.

Ochaya (お茶屋)

Tea houses at which geisha and maiko entertain. They are high class establishments that operate on the rule of Ichigen-san Okotowari (一見さんお断り), which means “No First Time Customers.” The ochaya began their lives as the snack houses located beside popular shrines and eventually grew into places that essentially function as high class party rooms. In order to be entertained at one you must be introduced by an established customer who can vouch for you. Parties with geisha and maiko, called Ozashiki (お座敷), are held in special rooms that are furnished with tables and chairs which guests can relax in while they watch dance performances and play drinking games to have a good time. Often times an ochaya will also have an okiya attached to it that is run by the same proprietress, which is a sign of how prosperous her business is and how well she is managing it. Most ochaya are over a century old and have been passed down from mother to daughter for generations.

Gohanya (御飯屋)

The umbrella term for restaurants that operate within each hanamachi. It’s quite common for customers to take their favourite maiko or geisha out to dinner with them at the finest establishments, known as Ryōtei (料亭), as a show of wealth.

Kenban (検番)

The office of the third party organization who looks after all engagements that geisha and maiko attend. They will go around to each ochaya every morning to collect the tallies for the previous night and then deliver them to the okiya of the geisha and maiko after sorting. If a discrepancy arises then the kenban will have a meeting with the ochaya and the okiya, although this is quite rare. At the beginning of January the numbers for the previous year are tallied up and those who worked the most hours are honoured during the New Year’s celebrations. In some districts it is also the job of a kenban officer to escort a geisha on her erikae or a maiko on her misedashi visits.

Kaburenjo (歌舞練場)

The large dance hall which each hanamachi uses to stage their yearly public performances in. Most have at least one balcony and seating for 200 people. These buildings also have rooms attached to them where geisha and maiko go each day to take their lessons in various art forms.

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How to Become a Geisha, Training of a Maiko

Most women enter the profession at the young age of 15 as compulsory education in Japan only goes up to middle school. Once they’ve made up their minds they can either be referred to the proprietress of an okiya by someone that they know, applying to the geisha union of a specific district, or contacting an okiya directly. Due to the popularity of the internet more and more okiya have started their own websites to showcase the glamorous lives of geisha and maiko and to allow young women to apply directly to them. The woman in question will then be interviewed by the proprietress of an okiya to see whether or not she’s serious about this line of work. If she is accepted then she will move into the okiya and begin her training.

When these women join the profession they are known as Shikomi (仕込み), which means “In Training.” This stage of training will last for approximately one year. During this time the young women will take lessons in dance and music, learn how to wear kimono, and speak in the special dialect of Kyoto known as Kyo Ben (京弁). Once she is deemed ready to enter the profession by her teachers she will take an exam. If she passes then she will set a date for her official debut.

Approximately one month before her debut she will begin to entertain at parties wearing the heavy kimono and makeup that have become iconic symbols of the profession, but instead of directly entertaining guests directly she will sit and watch her seniors and learn from their example. This stage is known as Minarai (見習い), which means “Learning By Observation.”

Once that period is up she will debut in a special ceremony known as Misedashi (見世出し), which means “Open For Business.” From this day forward she will be a Maiko (舞妓), meaning “Woman of Dance,” and undergo an apprenticeship that lasts an average of five years. Unlike geisha, maiko are yet untrained in the art of conversation and other formal arts, so their name reflects their limited specialization in dance.

Towards the end of their apprenticeship a maiko will enter a stage known as Sakkō (先笄), named for the special sakkō hairstyle that they wear, which lasts approximately 2-4 weeks. During this time they will wear the sakkō hairstyle as a sign that their apprenticeship is ending and that they will soon become geisha. They will even perform a special dance named Kurokami (黒髪), meaning “Black Hair,” to show their newfound womanhood. On the final day of their apprenticeship the maiko will take part in a special ceremony known as Danpatsu Shiki (断髪式), in which fellow maiko and geisha, along with loyal customers, will take turns clipping the wires that held her elaborate hairstyle in place. Once her hair is free she is no longer a maiko.

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Differences Between Geisha and Maiko Outfits and Hair

The entire purpose of a maiko’s outfit is to attract attention to herself. It’s said that this is done because she is not well versed in the arts, so her outfit will speak for her. From her head to her toes her outfit is curated specifically to catch the eye with opulent ornaments. On her head she wears bright and colourful hair ornaments known as Kanzashi (かんざし) that change on a monthly basis to match the various flowers and plants that are in season at the time. The most junior maiko will wear a spray of small flowers with special petal falls called Shidare (しだれ) that sway and catch the eye on onlookers. As she becomes more senior she will trade the small flowers in for large ones, often in groups of 1 or 3 to show her growing maturity. Young geisha will often wear just a single, small kanzashi made from precious jewels in her hair for a few years before forgoing any ornamentation altogether.

The maiko’s kimono collar, known as Eri (衿), is red and delicately embroidered with rich colours that will eventually turn white as she becomes more mature. In contrast, a geisha’s collar is solid white with no embroidery or decoration whatsoever.

The most striking feature of a maiko’s outfit is her long waist sash known as a Darari Obi (だらりの帯). It is 6 meters/22 feet long and worn with two tails in the back that contain the crest of her lodging house. Geisha, on the other hand, will wear a much shorter obi that’s tied in the back in a flat knot. This knot is said to resemble a hand drum, and thus has the name of Taiko Musubi (太鼓結び), which literally means “Drum Knot.”

The obi is held on with a special colourful and wide cord known as an Obijime (帯締め), and to make a maiko’s outfit even more splendid a special type of ornament known as a Pocchiri (ぽっちり) is worn over the obijime. These pocchiri are made from expensive metals and precious stones and are the most expensive part of her entire outfit. During the Edo Period pocchiri functioned like belt buckles and held the obijime together. Today they are simply slipped on and are purely for show. A geisha’s obijime by comparison is only half as wide and will be a single, solid colour.

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Frequently Asked Questions about Geisha

How much does a geisha make? What is geisha’s salary?

Maiko (apprentice geisha) don’t receive any salary, as they are in training. The okiya (maiko lodging house) pays for everything, starting with food, taxis, and accommodation, to kimono and classes. Maiko get some small stipends each month, so they can go shopping during their days off. Geiko (geisha) receive full compensation for their job engagements, however, the monthly income depends on the amount of hours they work. Just like theater performers, there is a huge variation in the income of the geisha based on the skills and popularity. It can be anywhere between $3K a month to tens of thousands of dollars for a popular geisha as she can also get gifts from her clients including expensive silk kimonos and gems that cost more than 5 figures etc.. Geisha’s salary is secret.

Why do geisha paint their face white?

Geishas often have a white because in the past there was no electricity and it was believed that the white powder made the face look beautiful and recognizable in the dark. There are other reasons such as in ancient China entertainers also wore the white powder make-up and white skin symbolized youth and nobility. Geisha also often shared the stage and hung out with kabuki actors who wore white-powder and visible lip and eye liners to be easily seen by the spectators from the distance.

Do geisha sleep with clients? Are geisha concubines, prostitutes?

No, because geishas are cultural performers and well-respected artisans who sell their art; not their body. Geisha never sleep with their clients as it goes against the rules of the public organizations they belong to. Additionally, prostititution is illegal in Japan, so both geisha and the clients would face criminal charges if that is to happen. The connotation emerged in the post-war Japan when some sex workers introduced themselves to foreign soldiers as geisha girls. Also, historically, the entertainment districts in Japan including kabuki theaters, geisha houses and other forms of entertainment venues were located close to each other and governed by similar set of rules which caused some misinterpretations among the early foreign visitors. In the book “memoirs of geisha” the main character sells her virginity which is nothing but fiction and also legally challenged at the court.

How much does it cost to meet a geisha?

The exact cost is never revealed, but an hour with a geisha starts from about 50,000 JPY and it can be booked only after being introduced to a teahouse by a frequent customer. There are some cheaper group events for the tourists and first-timers, starting from 5,000 JPY. A “geisha experience” is usually not meant to be one-time-only and there are so many other costs such as the fee of the meals and drinks; so, how much it costs to meet a geisha is a question that does not have one simple answer in Kyoto. Additionally, some geisha are more popular than others, so there is no standard cost.

How do you apply to become a geisha?

A candidate for a maiko has to be a Japanese girl who graduated from junior high school (the age of 15-16) and who has black hair. Some okiya require an introduction (personal reference), but some of them encourage girls to apply via e-mail or telephone. They just need to send their photo, fill in a survey, and get their parents’ approval.

Who decides when a maiko becomes a geisha

When maiko reaches the age of 20-21, her art masters and the owner of okiya decide if she’s ready to progress into the geiko stage. There’s no official exam, they just have to give her a green light to go further. Upon becoming a geiko, a maiko has to master “Kurokami” (“Jet Black Hair”) dance which she will perform during her sakkou period.

Are geishas respected in Japan?

They are very much respected as they perform cultural arts and crafts that require so much training and can’t be performed by most people. They are also often invited to public and religious ceremonies and often sit at VIP. Geisha’s outfit is unique and costly, the silk kimono costs at least $5K and the sash ornament (pocchiri) is usually worth thousands of dollars.

Do geisha think about quitting and having a family?

As a matter of fact most maiko (apprentice geisha) do not become a full-fledged geisha. They quit at the end of the maiko period. For the rest who chose to be a geisha it is a lifetime profession though so many geisha eventually quit in their thirties and forties and become housewives. If they don’t quit, most geisha become an okiya owner or inherit the okiya they are affiliated with and run a geisha house.

Why do geisha wear wigs but maiko don't?

It’s very difficult and expensive to keep such complicated hairstyles for the rest of the life, so wigs are more convenient. After working hours, professional geiko can wear Western clothes and be normal women. Also many geisha start losing their hair at an early age because of too much pulling as part of the intricate hairstyles. It is healthier to have a wig.

Can geisha marry or have a boyfriend?

Geisha of Kyoto cannot get married. The rule of this profession is “being married to the art, not a man”. If they want to get married, they have to quit the job. Once they quit, it’s usually impossible to come back, however they can debut from the beginning in a different city, under a different name and rules. Maiko cannot have a boyfriend, and if they do, they can easily get caught as they live in very strict conditions. Geisha live alone, they can secretly have a boyfriend.

Do geisha have any days off?

Maiko only have two days off per month, but they can take longer holidays three times per year too – New Year period in January, Golden Week in May, and Obon in August. Geiko decide their own schedule, so they can have days off whenever they feel like.

What is the age limit of being a geisha?

There is no age limit, there are geisha in Gion who are older than 80 years old.

Why did you decide to become a geisha? (often asked to the geisha at Maikoya)

Most maiko answer as their imagination of the fancy world of the geisha. A lot of girls are influenced by the beautiful maiko photos on the internet or TV documentaries about maiko lives. Some of them just want to work as a maiko, as it’s a fun adventure, and they never become geiko.

How did your family react? (often asked to the geisha at Maikoya)

Some families have concerns about their daughters’ living in the lodging house at an early age. However in Japan, part of being a democratic and advanced country, families tend to support the decisions of their daughters. However, maiko get to see their families only once or twice a year (Obon and the new year-eve).

Why do geishas have black teeth?

Geishas usually don’t have black teeth but right before a maiko becomes a geisha, there is about a 4-week long sakkou stage when she blackens her teeth. In the past, up until the 20th century, most women in Japan blackened their teeth as it was believed that blackening the teeth protected one’s health. Teeth blackening, also known as ohaguro, was also associated with maturity in old Japan. When maiko have black teeth, they refrain from drinking hot beverages and alcohol.