Monochrome Watches
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Buying Guide

Going All-Out This Christmas, with Five Outrageously Expressive Watches

Time to hold nothing back and let things run wild on the wrist for the upcoming festivities!

| By Robin Nooy | 5 min read |

A couple of weeks ago we did a rundown of what we felt are some of the best dress watches for the festive season. A time when we get together with our loved ones to celebrate, enjoy, and take a little break from our daily concerns. While a dress watch certainly seems like a fitting choice for celebrations, there is another way to do things. Why not let loose a little and go for something outrageously expressive? We’re still talking mechanical watches here, so expect complications and decorations throughout, yet in a very outspoken manner. Time to pop the champagne!

Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Merlin edition

Gather around is to be taken quite literally in the Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table Merlin Edition, as it spreads twelve handcrafted and finely detailed sword-wielding figurines around the dial. These surround 56 individual glass, gold and basalt blocks resembling the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, once said to be crossed by Merlin the Magician. All is set in the signature Excalibur case and backed by the in-house calibre RD821 automatic. Limited to just 28 pieces and worn on a calf leather strap, it retails for EUR 376,000.

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For more information, please visit RogerDubuis.com.

Quick Facts – 45mm diameter – rose gold case with sapphire ring – rose gold bezel – sapphire crystal front & back – rose gold crown with guards – 30m water-resistant – black base dial with 56 blocks and 12 figurines – central hour & minute hands – calibre RD821, in-house automatic – 28,800vph – 48h power reserve – Hallmark of Geneva certified – black calfskin leather strap – limited to 28 pieces – EUR 376,000

De bethune DB Kind of grande Complication

Not content with just one or two complications, De Bethune went the extra mile to incorporate a total of eight complications across two dials. Thanks to a swivelling case construction, the DB Kind of Grande Complication is a genuine two-faced watch. On one side, you have the typical star-studded blue titanium display with hours and minutes, perpetual calendar and spherical moon phase, and on the other, a more technical display with a tourbillon, jumping seconds, end of power reserve indication, hours and minutes and retrograde age of the Moon! With production being very limited, this one costs an eye-watering CHF 400,000 before taxes.

For more information, please visit DeBethune.ch.

Quick Facts – 42.3mm x 13.85mm – rotatable titanium case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – classical dial with hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, spherical moon phase – contemporary dial with hours & minutes, jumping seconds, end of power reserve, retrograde age of the moon – DB2529, in-house – manually wound – 552 components – 36,000vph – 96h power reserve tourbillon escapement – alligator leather strap – produced in very low numbers – CHF 400,000 (excl. VAT)

Christiaan van der Klaauw Grande Planetarium Eccentric

Taking things to the next level certainly goes for the Christiaan van der Klaauw Grande Planetarium Eccentric. Already the makers of the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium, the Grande Planetarium Eccentric takes the six planets of the original and adds in Uranus and Neptune to complete our solar system on the wrist. Each planet ‘orbits’ around the sun in its own trajectory, soaring over an aventurine base dial. Marking the 50th anniversary of CvdK, it’s entered into the permanent collection and comes in rose gold for EUR 208,000 or platinum for EUR 227,000.

For more information, please visit Klaauw.com.

Quick Facts – 44mm x 14.3mm – platinum or rose gold case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – aventurine base dial – eccentric planetarium display with 8 coloured planets – open-tip hour & minute hands – manufacture calibre with Andreas Strehler base movement and in-house planetarium module – 21,600vph – 60h power reserve – dark blue leather strap with case-matching folding clasp – EUR 208,000 (rose gold) or EUR 227,000 (platinum)

Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon Eternity

The La Esmeralda Tourbillon by Girard-Perregaux has always been a fascinating watch, harking back to the brand’s famous pocket watch with three golden bridges. This Eternity edition takes this up a few notches, though, thanks to a detailed engraved and enamelled case. The Grand Feu enamel base dial serves as the backdrop for the three signature bridges, two of which have a hand-engraved horse. The hour & minute hands are accompanied by a blued running seconds indicator on the tourbillon. Around the back, a decorated hinged caseback reveals the gorgeously finished movement. Limited to just 18 pieces, Girard-Perregaux has put a price of EUR 472,000 on it.

For more information, please visit Girard-Perregaux.com.

Quick Facts – 43mm x 15.1mm – rose gold case, hand-engraved & enamelled – hinged engraved & enamelled caseback – sapphire crystal front & back – hand-guilloché Grand Feu enamel dial – three bridges with engraved horses – central hours & minutes – tourbillon escapement with running seconds – calibre GP19600-2083, in-house – manual winding – 21,600vph – 50h power reserve – light brown calfskin leather strap – limited to 18 pieces – EUR 472,000

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst Limited Edition

A time for celebrations calls for a celebratory watch to match, and what better way to do that than the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst Limited Edition? On paper, the combination of a yellow gold case and a tremblage dial in rhodium and black rhodium shouldn’t really work, but it does. And surprisingly well, we say! In honour of the Datograph’s 25th anniversary, AL&S has opted to leave out the Ab/Auf power reserve display and go above and beyond in terms of movement finishing. Just look at it; it’s a masterpiece! It’s limited to just 25 watches, with a price upon request only.

For more information, please visit ALange-Soehne.com.

Quick Facts – 41mm x 13.1mm – yellow gold case, satin-finished & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 18k solid gold dial – rhodium & black-rhodium tremblage finish – yellow gold applied numerals and details – relief engravings – calibre L915.1, in-house flyback chronograph – manual winding – 426 components – German silver plates & bridges – Haute Horlogerie finishes throughout – 18,000vph – 60h power reserve – dark-brown alligator leather strap with yellow gold deployant buckle – limited to 25 pieces – price upon request

https://monochrome-watches.com/buying-guide-roger-dubuis-knights-of-the-round-table-merlin-de-bethune-db-kind-of-grande-complication-christiaan-van-der-klaauw-grande-planetarium-eccentric-girard-perregaux-la-esmeralda-tourbillon-et/

3 responses

  1. To quote lock, stock, and two smoking barrels: I dunno Tom, seems expensive. The trouble is that, apart from maybe the Lange, all watches on display here are just not particularly pretty.

    Credor make a Goldfeather in rose gold with a guilloché dial that measures 35,5mm and costs around 25.000 Euro’s. I’d take that over anything on display here. It fits the season, and it’s christmas chic rather than season’s gauche.

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  2. I agree with all of this. When i was looking at the prices, i was thinking, you could move the decimal three places to the left and i still wouldn’t buy one of these (except for the ALS). Gaudy watches that don’t do anything for me at any price point.

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  3. As always, most of us miss the point.

    This is not about any watch. This is about f-you money and f-you, i have contacts in the right place thing…..when one peruses the watchmaking skills of our guests across the banqueting table on ones super-yacht

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