Zegna Fall Winter 2025-2026 “The Legend of Vellus Aureum”. Story by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Photo Courtesy: Getty Research Institute / Zegna.

The Legend of the Golden Fleece

The story of the Golden Fleece, or Aureum Vellus, has captured the imaginations of generations, transcending its origins in Greek mythology to become a symbol of excellence, transformation, and pursuit of the unattainable. Rooted in legend and steeped in the alchemical traditions of the Renaissance, it serves as both a narrative and a metaphor for the perpetual quest for perfection.

Origins in Mythology

In Greek mythology, the Golden Fleece was the prized possession of Chrysomallos, a golden-woolled, winged ram sent by the gods to rescue Phrixus and Helle, two children condemned to death by a jealous stepmother. Chrysomallos carried Phrixus to safety in Colchis, where the ram was sacrificed to Zeus in gratitude. Its gleaming fleece, imbued with divine qualities, was hung in a sacred grove and guarded by a dragon. For Jason and the Argonauts, the retrieval of the fleece became a defining heroic quest, symbolizing the pursuit of ultimate achievement and reward.

By the late 15th and early 16th centuries, the legend of the Golden Fleece found new life in alchemical philosophy. It became a symbol of the Philosopher’s Stone, the mythical substance capable of transmuting base metals into gold and granting eternal life. Salomon Trismosin, a Renaissance alchemist and reputed teacher of Paracelsus, drew upon this symbolism in his seminal work, Aureum Vellus (1598). The German edition, titled Guldin Schatz und Kunstkammer, established a foundational text for European alchemical thought.

Symbolism and Modern Resonance

The Golden Fleece, as interpreted through both mythology and alchemical tradition, embodies the idea of metamorphosis—a relentless pursuit of refinement and the courage to undertake arduous quests. It is no coincidence that the Renaissance’s most celebrated alchemists adopted the fleece as a metaphor for their transformative work, aligning the material and spiritual realms. Trismosin’s autobiography, included in the 1598 printing, reinforced his reputation as a possessor of the Philosopher’s Stone and cemented his role as a custodian of the alchemical legacy.

This blend of ancient myth and Renaissance alchemy continues to resonate in modern narratives of craftsmanship and excellence. The Golden Fleece, and its alchemical interpretation as a symbol of purity and transformation, serves as a powerful metaphor for the relentless pursuit of perfection—a story that aligns seamlessly with ZEGNA’s ethos and its Vellus Aureum legend.

The legend, passed through the ages, becomes more than a tale of mythical heroism. It evolves into a timeless narrative of transformation, an emblem of mastery, and an invitation to strive for greatness. Alchemical rebirth and excellence were reimagined by Alessandro Sartori in the ZEGNA Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection, weaving together the threads of myth, art, and modern craftsmanship into a new Golden Fleece for the contemporary era.

ZEGNA’s The Legend of Vellus Aureum

The Legend of Vellus Aureum is a concept embraced by the luxury fashion house ZEGNA, reflecting their commitment to excellence in wool craftsmanship. The term “Vellus Aureum” translates to “Golden Fleece,” drawing inspiration from Greek mythology, where the Golden Fleece symbolizes resilience, triumph, and perfection. In the myth, the Golden Fleece was the prized possession of a winged ram, representing an ultimate reward for those who pursued extraordinary feats.

ZEGNA’s Vellus Aureum represents their pursuit of the finest wool fibers, a tradition initiated by their founder, Ermenegildo Zegna. In 1963, he established the Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Trophy Awards in Australia to encourage woolgrowers to produce the highest quality wool. The most exceptional fleeces, characterized by their remarkable fineness, are designated as “Vellus Aureum.” Notably, in 2023, a world record was achieved with a single wool fleece measuring a fineness of 9.4 microns.

This dedication to superior quality is further exemplified by the Vellus Aureum Trophy, introduced in 2002 for wools attaining a fineness of under 13.9 microns. The trophy, designed by Swiss artist Not Vital and later reinterpreted in 2013 by American artist Kiki Smith, celebrates the exceptional craftsmanship of woolgrowers.

By embracing the Vellus Aureum ethos, ZEGNA pays homage to its legacy of excellence, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation to redefine benchmarks in luxury fashion. Under the visionary leadership of Alessandro Sartori, the ZEGNA Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection transforms modern menswear with a harmonious fusion of heritage and contemporary design. Sartori’s creative vision, meticulous craftsmanship, and pioneering use of natural fibers reflect the alchemical essence of Vellus Aureum, symbolizing a pursuit of transformative perfection. Drawing inspiration from the legendary Golden Fleece, the collection integrates rich textures, nuanced tones, and designs that celebrate the interplay of nature and artistry. Each piece is a testament to ZEGNA’s unwavering commitment to excellence, weaving a majestic narrative of rebirth and transformation into the very fabric of contemporary fashion.

See All Looks Zegna Fall Winter 2025-2026