Why growing lure of protein supplements is worrying health experts

On a sweltering Janmashtami morning in Mumbai, Sudarshan Pawar’s breakfast differs from his parents’ traditional fare. Instead of the usual vrat foods, the 30-year-old adds a scoop of cocoa and ragi protein powder to his smoothie. This is his source of protein, as no non-vegetarian food is prepared at home on this day.“Three years ago, I barely thought about protein,” says Pawar, an avid runner and cyclist. Pawar represents a growing protein revolution that’s reshaping diets across India, from Mumbai to Mizoram.His parents have also recognised that traditional Indian foods might not provide sufficient protein. “When we eat fish, it is often fried, making it a source of fat rather than protein. And when we have meat dishes, we tend to eat more curry and chapatis than the meat itself,” he notes.Protein supplements have become mainstream, with professionals and celebrities increasingly asking, “Am I getting enough protein?” This shift is driving a multi-million-dollar industry of protein powders, bars and other products.However, this trend has also raised concerns among health professionals about the indiscriminate use of these supplements without proper guidance.The whey protein market in India is projected to grow from $91.8mn in 2023 to $120.3mn by 2028, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.5%, according to Mordor Intelligence. medium113225830In Hyderabad, Ruchika Agarwal, a vegetarian and founder of the health food brand Banter, turned to protein powders at 30 after noticing health issues, including hair loss.Agarwal finds the convenience of protein powders appealing, but both she and Pawar aim for 60-70g of protein daily, closely aligning with the Indian Council of Medical Research’s (ICMR) recommendation of 0.83g per kg of body weight.Achieving this target is challenging. The ICMR emphasises obtaining high-quality proteins and essential amino acids through a balanced diet and exercise, warning that protein utilisation depends on a balanced intake of carbs and fats.The reliance on supplements sometimes clashes with these ideals, as powders may contain added sugars, non-caloric sweeteners and artificial flavours.Sanjana Singh, a 29-year-old creative director from Mumbai, found her experience with protein powders unsatisfactory. “The way protein powder was presented as a ‘compulsion’ made me consume it like medicine rather than part of my diet,” she says. medium113225868Supplement surgePost-pandemic, India has seen a boom in the health food industry, with even dairy giant Amul entering the protein market two years ago.Jayen Mehta, managing director of Amul, notes that while initial consumers were mainly gym-goers, now a wider demographic, including mothers, is embracing protein products.Amul’s website receives orders from diverse locations, including Assam, the Andamans and small towns in Uttarakhand.Social media discussions about protein are expanding from muscle-building to overall nutrition. However, the surge has also led to a rise in substandard supplements, some of which may pose more risks than benefits.In response, regulators are tightening controls. The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) reported 38,053 civil cases and 4,817 criminal cases for non-conforming food samples, including protein powders, in 2022-23.A study in the journal Medicine found that 70% of protein powders had inaccurate protein content, with some containing harmful contaminants. In June, ET reported that the FSSAI would tighten regulations after discovering misleading claims in protein supplements.Shashank Mehta, founder and chief executive officer of The Whole Truth Foods, argues that the problem lies in poor manufacturing practices and unnecessary additives rather than whey protein itself. He highlights issues like counterfeits and amino spiking, which undermine consumer trust. medium113225901Back to basicsDespite the protein frenzy, some experts advocate returning to traditional, whole-food sources. Parmeet Kaur, chief dietitian at AIIMS New Delhi, cautions against over-reliance on marketed products.“As people’s purchasing power increases, they are more likely to buy such products, sometimes at the cost of their health,” she says. She encourages awareness of locally available foods.India faces a challenge in ensuring adequate protein intake, with average consumption at 47g per person per day, lower than other Asian countries and developed nations. Public nutrition programmes often focus on subsidised foodgrains rather than protein-rich foods.Kaur stresses the importance of combining foods for complete protein intake. For vegetarians, combining cereals and pulses with milk and adding nuts and seeds can meet nutritional needs.Krishnendu Roy from the Sahayata Foundation emphasises affordable protein sources like black chana and green moong, as well as curd, paneer and leftover whey from making paneer.Sanjana now prefers natural protein sources such as eggs and paneer, supplementing with plant-based protein powder as recommended by her nutritionist.