By Fletcher Harvey
The perimeter of the Galleria in Hoover proudly boasts a number of different types of restaurants although non-mall shoppers often avoid the trek out Highways 280 or 31, especially on weekend nights. That said, a recent visit to Bonefish Grill reminded us that seafood lovers should consider adding this dining establishment to their favorites list if it is not already there.
When we arrived, “the joint was jumping,” as the song says. The parking area was almost full. The line of hopeful walk-ins was out the door. Fortunately we had made reservations and were quickly seated in the bar area. It was obvious that ten years of service has not diminished the restaurant’s popularity.
DETAILS
What: Bonefish Grill, 3430 Galleria Circle, hoover; 205-985-9545
Prices: Starters, $3.90 to $16.50; Hand Helds (burgers and tacos), $9.30 to $13.90; Soups and salads, $4.90 to $13.90; Entrees, $13.90 to $27
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Brunch served Sunday, 11a.m to 2 p.m..
Info: Full bar; accepts credit cards; reservations recommended; Health Department rating of 92
Bottom line: Review gets four stars out of five
This is not a seafood “joint.” The atmosphere is dark wood and white tablecloths with semi-abstract seaworthy art here and there. The servers wear modified chef’s garb, making one wonder at times who’s in the kitchen. The noise level was at party pitch, yet not to the point that conversation was difficult.
We started with Bonefish’s highly touted bang bang shrimp ($8.90) and an order of mussels Josephine ($9.50).
Bang bang shrimp was a generous portion of crisp, lightly fried shrimp tossed in a creamy sauce and served over a bed of lettuce. Though the menu states spicy, the sauce is quite tasty but does not assault one’s palate. A good choice.
An even better choice was the large bowl of mussels. We have no idea who Josephine is or was, but we’re very glad Bonefish got her recipe. Plump and succulent, the mussels languished with small chunks of tomato in a basil garlic butter sauce that made a tasty sopping sauce with the fresh baked bread long after the shellfish were gone. One of our party admitted that he orders mussels wherever they are offered, and he put these at the top of his list, “even better than Amsterdam.”
The small Tokyo style ahi tuna ($15.50; large $19.30) was a substantial serving. Sliced into medallions and grilled, the sushi-grade tuna was served at room temperature (on purpose!) on a bed of jasmine rice. Mixed vegetables and a serving of shredded cabbage completed the plate. Appropriately lightly seared, the tuna was delicious. Be aware that sinus-clearing wasabi might be lurking beneath the broccoli! That isn’t guacamole resting beside the sliced ginger.
Ordered as an entrée, the crab cake appetizer ($11.30) was also a good choice. Two large, lightly fried cakes fared well in the crab to bread ratio. Red remoulade sauce was pleasantly spicy.
Longfin tilapia imperial ($19.30) was rich and delicious. The substantial serving of tilapia was stuffed with shrimp, scallops and lump crab meat. A creamy lemon-butter sauce made this a special dish.
Recommended by an “impartial” staff member, pecan Parmesan crusted rainbow trout ($17.50) was thin and a bit dry. Served on the side, drawn butter brought the dish back to life. Both the trout and the tilapia were served with an interesting chick pea and tomato combination as the house vegetable. As a second side, grilled asparagus was predictable but surprisingly tender.
A shared chocolate crème brulee ($6.20) was a grand way to end a good evening. A truffle-like mousse, this rich, creamy concoction with its nicely caramelized topping was delicious.
The restaurant remained full throughout the evening . Our server, Sonya, did an admirable job of keeping delays at a minimum despite the exuberant crowd and several large parties.
A note to the few who may not know, Bonefish Grill is the fine seafood dining arm of the group that brings you Outback Steakhouse. Unlike other large chain fish purveyors, the food at Bonefish goes far beyond portion-ready from the company commissary offerings. The menu is interesting and innovative with daily specials depending on availability and the local chef’s interests. With several deliveries a week, there should be no question about the freshness of the seafood.
Bonefish Grill serves dinner daily and lunch Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Sunday brunch is popular. Don’t be dismayed if seafood is not your thing. Bonefish does offer several items of the steak/chicken/pork persuasion.
With good service and excellent seafood at popular prices, Bonefish Grill is justifiably well established in the Birmingham area’s eat-scape.