midday, late in March, I embarked on my pilgrimage at temple number one of the Shikoku 88 Temples Walk, following in the footsteps of Kobai Daishi (aka Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism. My plan was to walk each day and stay wherever I could find somewhere to sleep. I knew some temples had tsuyado (a free room) as opposed to shukubo (paying guest accommodation) and I was carrying a tent. There were many other places where it was acceptable for pilgrims to sleep, such as bus shelters, parks, rest huts and daishido (small temples with bedding).
