Last spring a friend, the owner of a beautiful Endurance, asked me if I would like to come for a cruise on his other boat. This turned out to be HMS , 20,000 tons of pure lethality, carrying a large crew of Royal Marine Commandos and Naval personnel. I found myself on the bridge as we passed through the Dover Strait, crowded with big ships behaving like dodgem cars. Hannah the navigator reclined in her
