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    Basic Rug Hooking: * Complete guide to tools and materials * Step-by-step instructions and photos * 5 beginner projects
    Basic Rug Hooking: * Complete guide to tools and materials * Step-by-step instructions and photos * 5 beginner projects
    Basic Rug Hooking: * Complete guide to tools and materials * Step-by-step instructions and photos * 5 beginner projects
    Ebook81 pages52 minutes

    Basic Rug Hooking: * Complete guide to tools and materials * Step-by-step instructions and photos * 5 beginner projects

    By Judy P. Sopronyi and Alan Wycheck

    ()

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    About this ebook

    Learn to hook with easy step-by-step photos!

    Rug hooking at its simplest is pulling loops of colorful wool fabric through a piece of linen backing to create beautiful designs for the floor or wall. Though in years past this was accomplished with a bent nail, a feed bag, and worn-out clothing, today we have specialized hooks and other tools that make the process much easier. In Basic Rug Hooking, you will learn what tools and materials you need to get started, and how to pull your first loops. Once you've learned and practiced the basics, you will be ready to try any of the 5 hooked projects included. Each project includes the pattern and complete step-by-step illustrated instructions.

    The styles of rugs you can make once you've learned the basic hooking process are endless. Rug hookers today create traditional florals, bright geometrics, pictorials, portaits, and primitives perfect for the modern farmhouse. Basic Rug Hooking teaches you everything you need to know to start hooking today!

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRowmanLittlefield
    Release dateOct 1, 2021
    ISBN9780811770552
    Basic Rug Hooking: * Complete guide to tools and materials * Step-by-step instructions and photos * 5 beginner projects

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      Book preview

      Basic Rug Hooking - Judy P. Sopronyi

      Introduction

      Janet Stanley Reid, a rug hooker with eighteen years of experience, loves to teach beginners. In this book, she shares her knowledge of the craft and her teaching experience to take you step by step through the process, with lots of tips to help you develop and refine your skills.

      Spend some time with chapters 1 and 2 to get an understanding of rug hooking tools and materials and some familiarity with the basic motions involved in rug hooking. For the most part, the later chapters progress from simple to more difficult projects, with new skills and techniques introduced along the way.

      Once you’re comfortable with the process, give some thought to developing your own patterns. That’s the way the craft started out, and we encourage you to carry that history forward.

      Part I

      Basic Tools and Skills

      chpt_fig_001

      1

      Tools and Materials

      There are many tools and materials available that add to the ease of rug hooking. However, keep in mind that the craft began with some imagination, a bent nail, a burlap feed bag, a pair of scissors, and the good parts of worn-out clothing. While we highly recommend that you scrap the idea of a bent nail and buy a hook, there are alternatives to high-priced gizmos. When you’re just starting out, you might want to try some of the simpler tools before you launch into the purchase of such things as hooking frames and cutters.

      Refer to the resources in the back of the book for companies that provide the more specialized rug hooking tools and materials.

      Wool

      chpt_fig_002

      Quality counts with the wool you select. The ideal weight is 12 to 14 ounces per yard. If you’re uncertain of the weight, cut a piece 36 x 36 inches and weigh it on a postal or kitchen scale. The Dorr Mill Store, Woolrich, and the Wool Studio specialize in fabrics for rug hooking, as do rug hooking shops.

      Blends of wool and man-made fibers such as polyester do not tear as well as 100 percent wool. Tearing determines the lengthwise or crosswise grain of the fabric prior to cutting.

      chpt_fig_003

      By cutting strips from the different color areas of plaids, you’ll have hues that you can rely on to work well together.

      chpt_fig_004chpt_fig_005

      The wool needs to be fairly tightly woven, or the strips you cut will simply separate into individual threads. This example (above) is too loosely woven for hooking strips, but it could be used as a backing.

      Visit thrift shops to find clothing made of attractive wool, but keep in mind that the finish of worsted wool such as in men’s suits is too flat, and the wool of a winter coat is too heavy. Thrift shop kilts and fabric from a pair of pants yield plenty of desirable, inexpensive wool.

      Backings and Hooks

      The foundation of your work should be of good quality. Hooked rugs can last for generations, so an investment in a good backing is well worth it. Buy backing from a rug hooking source to be sure you’re getting the quality you need.

      chpt_fig_006

      MONK’S CLOTH

      Although you can buy this even-weave cotton backing in fabric shops, the weight and strength may not be appropriate. The monk’s cloth available from hooking shops has a lighter-colored thread incorporated in the weave to aid in keeping patterns straight.

      chpt_fig_007

      LINEN

      This strong, durable fabric is ideal for rug hooking. Buy the type available from hooking resources to be assured of the appropriate weight and density. The color is usually unbleached and neutral. It’s available in a smooth, hairless version as well as a rougher type.

      POLYESTER

      This is a fairly new material available for rug hooking.

      It comes in several colors such as oatmeal, soft blue, and rose, which make it especially desirable for projects such as Red in chapter 3 where the background is left unhooked. It’s also called Verel or panel fabric, owing to its use on cubicle dividers in offices.

      RUG WARP

      Rug warp is cotton and similar to monk’s cloth. The threads in the fabric are heavier than in monk’s cloth, and whereas monk’s cloth has two threads woven together, rug warp has one. Rug warp is especially good for larger rugs. It’s shown at left lying beneath two varieties of linen backing.

      BURLAP

      Originally used as a backing when the craft of rug hooking developed, burlap has been found not to wear well and is not recommended for modern rugs. Burlap is made of jute with short fibers that don’t interlock. The weave loosens when damp and contracts when dry, resulting in quick wearing and broken fibers.

      chpt_fig_008

      SEWING MACHINE

      While not necessary, a zigzag-equipped sewing machine can quickly protect the raw edges of the rug backing. Use the zigzag stitch to sew along the raw edges to keep them from fraying. The straight stitch of a sewing machine is also used for attaching the binding in chapter 4, although the binding can be sewn on by hand.

      chpt_fig_009

      MASKING TAPE

      This is another way to keep the edges of backing fabric from fraying. Just fold it over the edge lengthwise.

      chpt_fig_010

      HOOKS

      This necessary tool pulls strips of wool from beneath the backing to form loops. Many different handle styles are available. Choose one that feels good in your hand. Hooks also come with a wider shank to aid in enlarging holes for wider wool strips, and some shanks are bent, which you may find more comfortable to use. Size medium or coarse hooks work well for strip width cut sizes #5 and up. For narrow cuts such #3 or #4, look for a fine hook, marked F on the end of the handle. (Page 11 shows cut sizes.)

      Transfer Aids

      There are several ways to copy a pattern onto a backing.

      chpt_fig_011

      TULLE

      This fine, transparent fabric associated with bridal veils can be used to transfer patterns from paper to backing. Just

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