The Chihuahua: El Perrito the Little Dog

CONTENTS

Introduction (B. Stallard)

Chihuahua Standard (Chihuahua Club of America)

AS A PET

Choosing Your Chihuahua Pet (B. Stallard)

FROM PET TO THE SHOW RING

Chihuahua: An Overview (B. Stallard)

Socialization (C. Soto)

Potty on Command (B. Stallard)

Doggarian (B. Stallard)

My Journey (J. Newton)

DETERMINING SHOW QUALITY

Cosmetics Issues versus Faults and Disqualifications (B. Stallard)

BREEDING FOR SOUNDNESS

Breeding for Soundness (M. Hale)

Structure and Gait (K. and V. Wheeler)

Terrier-Like Temperament (B. Stallard)

The Chihuahua Headpiece (G. Sette and L. McLellan)

GCh Ayrwen Star-Kissed Delight a.k.a. DeeDee (G. & A. Johnson)

HEALTH ISSUES

Health Issues (B. Stallard)

Congenital Diseases in the Chihuahua (K. A. St. John, DVM)

Household Poisons and Hazards (B. Ingles, D. VM.)

IN THE RING

More than Meets the Eye (C. L. Battaglia)

Movement and Gait (L. Harger)

What a Judge Wants to See (Judge A. Bolus)

Proper Dress for Judging (Judge T. Clark)

My Junior Showmanship Experiences (A. Johnson)

My Junior Showmanship Experiences (S. Van Buren)

My Junior Showmanship Experiences (J. Johnson)

Brood Bitch Selection (L. George)

Selecting Sires (C. L. Battaglia)

Chihuahua Pregnancy: A Guide (B. Stallard)

Being a Responsible Breeder (Y. Sakawee)

PUPPIES ON THE GROUND

Litter size, and The Singleton Puppy (C. L. Battaglia)

Early Neurological Stimulation (C. L. Battaglia)

Orphan Puppies (P. Mattie)

Taping Ears (B. Stallard)

Dewclaw Removal (J. Cipollina)

Founder’s Effect (C. L. Battaglia)

About the Authors

INTRODUCTION

Betty Stallard

F undamentally, a Chihuahua is a canine, like any other. All canines have evolved from wolf ancestry, although there was a faulty theory at one time that Chihuahuas evolved from rodents. All canines, and specifically domesticated ones, should be capable of performing the job that they were bred for in order to be happy, to be healthy, and (in the wild) to survive.

Similarities between dogs and wild canines, such as wolves, coyotes, jackals, and foxes, are myriad. First of all, canines are primarily carnivores.

Another similarity between the Chihuahua and wild canines is the teeth. Canine teeth are designed for ripping meat and cracking/grinding bones. The length of the muzzle allows the canine to get sufficient hold of the flesh to rend a portion from the carcass. The joint of the jaw exerts sufficient force to kill and tear, while the powerful neck is the force behind the tearing motion. While one may not want to think of the Chihuahua in such a graphic manner, it is nonetheless exactly what the canine must do to survive in the wild. If Chihuahuas were in the wild, they would also have to be able to do these things to survive. Admittedly, their prey would, by necessity, need to be small. Even a pack couldn’t bring down a deer, but rabbits or other rodents would be possible.

Canines are quadrupeds with feet and nails designed for traction, digging, and tearing. The feet are attached to the legs, knees, shoulders and hips, the suspension system of the canine. The suspension system is attached to the topline by muscles and ligaments, all designed to work together. This is called structure. If any one part is not functioning with the other parts, the animal is impaired in its ability to hunt and survive.

A canine’s body temperature is normal at about 100-103 degrees. They are susceptible to various diseases such as rabies, parvo, lepto, and other zoonotic infections that will increase or decrease the body temperature according to the specific infection. They are also vulnerable to parasites such as fleas, ticks, various internal and external worms, heartworms, mites, and mange. Without care, the domesticated canine, especially the small, young, or old ones, can fall prey to parasites and even die from the loss of blood and nutrition these parasites rob from them.

Canines are intelligent. Wolves and wild canines often hunt in packs with different pack members assigned various hunting assignments, enabling these smaller animals can bring down a much larger animal, such as an elk. The domesticated dog made an intellectual choice to join with man eons ago. As man and canine have developed their unique kinship, the intelligence of the canine has grown, and he has evolved additional methods of survival based on his association with man. This adaptability is highly developed in canines, whereas bears, for example, do not appear to have this type of intelligence and adaptability.

Canines have a great capacity for loyalty to one another and the pack. They are playful, both in the wild and in the domesticated environment. And they recognize and maintain a pack hierarchy in both. In a domestic environment, the necessity for the human to become the pack alpha cannot be overstated.

That being said, there are some significant differences between the Chihuahua and all other canines, wild or domesticated. First is their size. The Chihuahua is recognized as the smallest breed in the world. There have been instances of a smaller individual dog in another toy breed, the runt of some litter, perhaps, but the breed is the smallest. Oversized Chihuahuas are not uncommon. While the standard show Chihuahua should not be over six pounds, I have seen pets that are large and fat, even in excess of thirteen pounds. Neither of these things negates the fact that the Chihuahua is the smallest breed.

Another difference is in the varieties of the Chihuahua, long and smooth coats. Some people say long and short coats, but the proper term is smooth coat. The two varieties cover a large range of coat types. The long-coat Chihuahua can be single-coated, with a smooth, long coat which lies flat against the body, giving a look of elegance. It can be double-coated with an undercoat that gives varying degrees of fullness to the coat. This can make the dog look much larger than it is. This double-coated variety can be quite fluffy or full and flowing. There are various parts of the coat to be considered in the long-coat Chihuahua, including the ear fringes, the ruff, the mantle, the chest hair, and the britches.

Regardless of their differences and similarities, there is an overall premise that is primary: a canine must be able to perform the job for which it was bred. That job may be hunting, herding, or companionship; however, if the dog cannot perform its job, it is not an acceptable representative of its breed.

CHIHUAHUA STANDARD

Chihuahua Club of America

General Appearance

A graceful, alert, swift-moving compact little dog with saucy expression and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.

Size, Proportion, Substance

Weight—A well-balanced little dog not to exceed six pounds.

Proportion—The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males. Disqualification—Any dog over six pounds in weight.

Head

A well-rounded apple dome skull, with or without molera.

Expression—Saucy.

Eyes—Full, round, but not protruding; balanced, set well apart; luminous dark or luminous ruby. Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible. Blue eyes or a difference in the color of the iris in both eyes, or two different colors within one iris should be considered a serious fault. Ears—Large, erect-type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a forty-five-degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears.

Stop—Well-defined. When viewed in profile, it forms a near ninety-degree angle where muzzle joins skull.

Muzzle—Moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean.

Nose—Self-colored in blond types or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. In blond types, pink noses permissible.

Bite—Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot or any distortion of the bite or jaw should be penalized as a serious fault. A missing tooth or two is permissible.

Disqualifications—Broken-down or cropped ears.

Neck, Topline, Body

Neck—Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders.

Topline—Level.

Body—Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much barrel-shaped).

Tail—Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out or in a loop over the back with tip just touching the back. (Never tucked between legs.)

Disqualifications—Docked-tail, bobtail.

Forequarters

Shoulders—Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving free movement at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back (never down or low). This gives a well-developed chest and strength of forequarters.

Feet—A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Dewclaws may be removed.

Pasterns—Strong.

Hindquarters

Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in; well let down, firm, and sturdy.

Angulation—Should equal that of forequarters. The feet are in front. Dewclaws may be removed.

Coat

In smooth coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close, and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats are permissible.) Coat placed well over body with ruff on neck and with more scanty on head and ears is preferred. Hair on tail is preferred furry. In long coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly wavy, with undercoat preferred.

Ears—Fringed.

Tail—Full and long (as a plume). Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs, and large ruff on the neck are desired and preferred. (The Chihuahua should be groomed only to create a neat appearance.)

Disqualification—In long coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Color

Any color—Solid, marked, or splashed.

Gait

The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. From the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the footfall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. The legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. The side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. The topline should remain firm, and the backline is level as the dog moves.

Temperament

Alert, projecting the terrier-like attitudes of self-importance, confidence, self-reliance.

Disqualifications

Any dog over six pounds in weight.

Broken-down or cropped ears.

Docked-tail, bobtail.

In long coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.

Approved August 12, 2008

Effective October 1, 2008

THE CHIHUAHUA:

As a Pet

*GCh Rambling Starz Kiss and Tail as puppy;

bred by Betty Stallard

Special information and recommendations:

A Chihuahua is not suitable for young children as they may think it is a toy and injure it.

Biting, aggression, and constant barking are not acceptable in the Chihuahua as a pet. This can often be resolved using a spray bottle for correction.

Obedience classes are always a good idea when you have a potential dictator—I mean Chihuahua, on your hands.

The care and feeding of your pet is up to you. Don’t count on someone else doing it for you. Be responsible.

Do not give a puppy as a pet on the holidays. This rarely works out favorably. Give a book about Chihuahuas and a stuffed one for the holiday, and when the recipient has read and decided a Chihuahua is what he wants, go together to pick it out. Or rather to let the Chihuahua choose the recipient.

CHOOSING YOUR CHIHUAHUA PET

Betty Stallard

O ne would think that finding a promising Chihuahua would be as easy as finding someone with a litter, choosing one to take home, and living happily ever after with a healthy, playful, outgoing pet. Unfortunately, it is not quite that simple.

While there are ample backyard and hobby breeders, many buyers have found, to their dismay, that these breeders have little care for their stock and less for the buyer’s satisfaction. Dogs are often kept in unsanitary conditions with little human contact. This does not result in the happy, healthy puppy for which one is seeking. Feces that are not removed promote coccidia, internal and external parasites, and wounds and skin conditions that may be difficult to treat. Lack of proper human contact results in nonsocialized dogs. These animals often cannot become loving, happy members of a family. Additionally, immunizations that are not on schedule and up-to-date can result in a puppy with parvovirus and other diseases. Dewormings that are not kept up to date can also infect the human family members with parasites.

Well, there are pet stores. They would be the best place to purchase a pet, right? Wrong. Pet stores regularly obtain their dogs and cats from backyard and hobby breeders. These are often the puppies or kittens that were leftovers, the unsold specimens. Yes, they are registered with a kennel club, either the AKC (American Kennel Club), CKC (Continental Kennel Club), UKC (United Kennel Club), NKC (National Kennel Club), or NPR (National Pet Registry), among others. Be advised that kennel clubs are a record-keeping enterprises—not arbitrary boards. As long as a person has two animals of the same breed that are properly registered with the same kennel club, they may breed them and register the litter. There are no kennel club standards, etc., by which backyard and hobby breeders are disciplined for breeding less than wonderful stock. So how does one know if their breeder is reputable?

First, a reputable breeder would never sell the puppies to a pet store. You are not getting something from a reputable breeder from a pet store. Most parent clubs have ethic statements that prohibit members from selling to pet stores or at auctions/flea markets. You will have to find a responsible breeder and contact them in order to discuss the purchase of a puppy from him/her. Such a breeder will not be sitting in a parking lot selling puppies out of the trunk of his/her car, nor will he/she meet you at a gas station with two or three puppies from which to choose. Nor will he/she insist on delivering the puppy to your home.

You must be careful, as well, of puppy mill supplier kennels that breed dogs strictly for the dogfight market. These entities have vets on hand and employ individuals to play with the pups. The pups or cats are priced to sell and are often neutered. They may appear to be very legitimate, but it pays to do your homework before purchasing a pet from someone you do not know well.

The Internet and newspaper/magazine advertisements are not good ways to find a breeder either. When you see these ads, be wary of any that advertise the best, smallest, rare colors, largest and other superlatives. A good breeder does not need to resort to these tactics to place puppies. The animal speaks for itself when you see it. Many people have been scammed over the Internet, buying puppies from people who don’t own the puppy but stole someone else’s puppy picture and put it up as their own. Many more have purchased sick puppies and racked up hundreds of dollars in vet bills for a puppy that just doesn’t have a chance to live. Others have bought puppies that when they arrived didn’t even have their milk teeth, proving they were not over four weeks old and not viable away from the mother. Beware of anyone who puts up pictures of puppies next to soup cans or other small items to prove their small size. This is an old trick. Puppies grow up, and will not be that size for long.

Beware of anyone who advertises sizes such as tea cup, miniature, tiny, pocket puppy, standard and toy sizes. The Chihuahua is a member of the toy group; any other designation is not approved and is merely a selling tactic. Chihuahuas have a breed standard regarding size of up to six pounds, which means they may be shown up to that size. There are Chihuahuas that sometimes get bigger, and that does not lessen their suitability as a pet. As a matter of fact, a little sturdier Chihuahua is a better idea if you have children or other pets.

How does one find a good, reputable, responsible, and ethical breeder? One way is to contact the kennel club of your choice—the AKC being my choice registry. Each kennel club has a list of breeders for the various breeds they register. Both the AKC and CKC have kennel inspections. This will help you know the puppy is raised in a clean and healthy environment. In making your choice, it is important to know that a puppy registered in CKC is not eligible for dog shows under the AKC authorization. Only AKC registered dogs may be shown at AKC dog shows. Also, should you ever decide to breed a litter, both animals must be registered with the same kennel club, and their offspring must be registered with the kennel club to which the parents are registered.

One may also contact the parent club or local breed clubs. In Chihuahuas, that would be the Chihuahua Club of America as the parent club. There are many local breed clubs such as Atlanta, Nashville, Tampa Bay, New England, Houston, etc. One may contact any representative of the club for their breeder referrals.

Another way to locate a reputable breeder is to attend a dog show in your area. Breeders and exhibitors come from all over the USA and abroad to show at local shows. This will also allow you to see the good examples of the Chihuahua in the ring. WARNING: Do not attempt to engage someone waiting to go into the ring in conversation. Wait until they have finished showing before you talk to them. If it is Friday or Saturday, they are almost certainly staying over locally, and you may be able to make an appointment to talk about their breed with them. You might invite them out for dinner or just ask for a few moments of their time and any webpage they have. Ask for references of respected and ethical breeders.

Once a list of breeders is compiled, contact them by phone and discuss what you are looking for in detail. This does not mean color and tiny but rather temperament, activity level, and socialization. Tell the breeder where the