Tailored to perfection: Anderson & Sheppard, Savile Row

James Bond may define cutting edge cool, but the word "bespoke" is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers. Exploring the promise of provenance, the 'Mile' cognoscenti's tryst with style extended from the Maharaja of Jaipur to the Maharaja of Cooch-Behar to the Maharajah of Bikaner; Prince Harish Chandra of Jhalawar and even included Princess Indira of Karpurthala.

The Savile Row Bespoke Association, founded in 2004, has laid down some laws to legitimise their claim: to be considered bespoke, a suit must start with an individual pattern created by a master cutter, who will also superintend all production; the tailors will be based in England; and all work will be done by hand and require a minimum of 50 hours. The garments resulting from this time-honored process-and only those-will be worthy of bearing the label Savile Row Bespoke.

The distinctive house style of Anderson & Sheppard is softer and less constructed than its neighbours'. Famously endorsed by celebrated fashion designer Tom Ford: "In my opinion, Anderson & Sheppard is the best tailor in the world," it is the only Savile Row firm to remain a purely bespoke operation.

With all garments made by hand in England, it has not franchised itself, branched out into ready-to-wear or made-to-measure, or licenced its name for overseas use. Each and every customer is measured for his own individual pattern, which is stored on the premises in Anderson & Sheppard's one (and only) shop.

The customer, in consultation with a salesman, selects a fabric; this fabric is cut to pattern by one of the firm's seasoned cutters; the components are stitched together by the rigorously trained tailors; and after two to three fittings, the garment is completed to the customer's satisfaction.

Nuts and bolts

Founded: 1906

Signature Style: The English Drape

USP: Soft style and comfort. Suits that can be worn for business and for leisure. A choice of over 4000 cloths, 90% of which are woven in Britain.

Famous Clients: Prince Harish Chandra of Jhalawar (1938), Princess Indira Karpurthala (1942), The Maharajah of Charkhari (1949), HH The Maharaja of Cooch-Behar (1926), Prince I. H.H. The Maharajah of Bikamer (1930), H.H. The Raja of Bobbili (1931) H.M. The Maharaja of Jaipur (1933), Narayan of Cooch Behar (1934), Maharajah Ajit Singh of Jodhpur (1937), H.H The Marharaja of Chota Udepur (1937), Maharajah of Pithapuram (1939)

Address: Anderson & Sheppard, 32 Old Burlington Street, London W1S 3AT.

Telephone: 0207 734 1420

Website: www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk

Email: [email protected]

Approximate Cost: Two piece suit-3,800

Approximate Time: 12 weeks to complete with 3 fittings in between.