CHAMELEONS

These lizards are best adapted to life in trees and bushes as they are equipped with modified gripping feet, a prehensile tail, independently movable eyes and a projectile tongue. At any height, they are well camouflaged in surrounding foliage. They spend most of the day hunting approaching insects, which they catch with the aid of their modified tongue. Most chameleons love the sun and exist in all vegetation zones from desert to rain forest to snow line mountain altitudes. All true chameleons have leaf-shaped bodies and are masters of camouflage corresponding to their arboreal habits. Because so many biotopes exist even within a specific subspecies, wild caught chameleons should be avoided and captive bred animals should be chosen as that particular terrarium biotope can be readily duplicated. Color change not only occurs for camouflage, but also for temperature regulation (dark to retain heat from the sun) and to communicate with other chameleons. Change in color results from the migration of melanin from deeper dermal and epidermal layers of melanophores to layers nearer the surface. If it spreads throughout the entire cell, the coloration is darker; if it coalesces at a point within the cell, lighter shades result. Movement of melanin is controlled by the nervous system. Other pigment cells, chromatophores (shades of yellow and red) and guanophores (cells containing a semicrystalline substance that reflects light are located above the melonocytes and the interaction of all 3 cell types produces the many variant and brilliant colors.

CHAMELEONS

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY These vary with species with most requiring a temperature drop at night.

LIGHTING Juvenile animals should be kept in a small enclosure to ensure adequate exposure to full spectrum lighting. Current so-called “full spectrum lighting” assures exposure to UVB light in the range of 290-315 nm and is necessary for the cutaneous synthesis of vitamin D. Many brands of UVB lighting exist, but most current research shows most provide little, if any, UVB radiation. The ZOO MED UVB 5.0/610 is currently recommended. Recent studies have suggested some quartz-halogen yard lights like the Night Vigil quartz or the Sylvannia BLB 350 bug light may produce UVB. It is important to remember that these lights must shine directly on the animal and not pass through glass, plexi-glass or screen tops with diameters of less than 1/8 inch. Zoo Med lights will require changing every 12 months, as the UV-emitting phosphor will deteriorate over time even though the light may glow for years. The UV light will need to be placed within 12 inches of the animal to be of any benefit and therefore, smaller cages for juveniles will ensure proper UV exposure. Recommended photoperiods are 10-14 hours daily with 10-12 hours of darkness. Both light and temperature are necessary for normal physiologic functions and play a vital part in oogenesis, spermatogenesis, gonadal and other endocrine development plus immune functions with maximum antibody production occurring at preferred optimum body temperature (POBT). Animals in forested areas or more shaded areas using a UVB 2.0 would be sufficient.

JACKSON’S Tanzania and Kenya, Africa, Hawaii introductions. Males are horned and up to 14 inches in length. Females are rarely horned except at birth and smaller in size. Daytime temperature of 65-85 F and nighttime at 55-70 F. Humidity of 75-100% with good ventilation. Humidity must be 100% if temperature is over 90 degrees. Live bearing after gestation of 7 to 9 months. Direct sunlight or UVB essential if gravid.

PANTHER (EGG LAYING) Inhabits the warm and humid coastline of the island of Madagascar. Aggressive and require individual housing. Daytime temperature of 85-90 F and nighttime in the low 70’s. Humidity of 60-80%. Egg-laying with up to 4 clutches of 15-35 eggs per year at incubation temperature of 68-74 F. Generally do well in captivity and can live for many years. Many color morphs-red, blue, and yellow. Can be aggressive.

VEILED CHAMELEON (EGG LAYING) Yemen species, which is located on the southernmost tip of the Arabian Peninsula. This area, typical of deserts, can be hot during the day and cool to cold at night. Survives in both desert and desert mountainous regions which may have no measurable rainfall, but produces dew from coastal humidity that collects on leaves and bushes and even the casque on their skull that then trickles down into their mouth. Daytime temperature range of 70-100 F but averages at 85 F. Nighttime ranges 45-70 F. Basking area require. UVB required. Several clutches of 25-30 or more eggs per year with an incubation period of 7 to 9 months. Adults may consume up to 60% plant material such as Ficus, broccoli, bib lettuce, romaine, dandelion and other edible weeds. Can be aggressive

LIGHTING Juvenile animals should be kept in a small enclosure to ensure adequate exposure to full spectrum lighting. Current so-called “full spectrum lighting” assures exposure to UVB light in the range of 290-315 nm and is necessary for the cutaneous synthesis of vitamin D. Many brands of UVB lighting exist, but most current research shows most provide little, if any, UVB radiation. The ZOO MED UVB 5.0/610 is currently recommended. Recent studies have suggested some quartz-halogen yard lights like the Night Vigil quartz or the Sylvannia BLB 350 bug light may produce UVB. It is important to remember that these lights must shine directly on the animal and not pass through glass, plexi-glass or screen tops with diameters of less than 1/8 inch. Zoo Med lights will require changing every 12 months, as the UV-emitting phosphor will deteriorate over time even though the light may glow for years. The UV light will need to be placed within 12 inches of the animal to be of any benefit and therefore, smaller cages for juveniles will ensure proper UV exposure. Recommended photoperiods are 10-14 hours daily with 10-12 hours of darkness. Both light and temperature are necessary for normal physiologic functions and play a vital part in oogenesis, spermatogenesis, gonadal and other endocrine development plus immune functions with maximum antibody production occurring at preferred optimum body temperature (POBT).

CHAMELEONS

PARSONS CHAMELEON (EGG LAYING) This is one of the largest chameleons, attaining lengths of up to 2 feet. They require daytime temperatures of 80-85 F. Nighttime temperatures should not fall below 65 F. High air humidity is needed requiring constant misting.

CAGE DESIGN AND SUBSTRATE The cage must be built, furnished and maintained according to the requirements of the species being kept. All prefer wide over narrow terrariums, so retreating to the rear contributes substantially to the well being of the chameleon. Ventilation is important and the ability to regulate by movement of sliding panels is suggested so that humidity may also be controlled. Full color plastic backgrounds or cork on the outside of the glass help with camouflage. A substrate of turf or indoor/outdoor carpeting may be used but a living terrarium with soil and plants such as the Ficus may actually work better with these more difficult species, especially if breeding is desired. If one cannot keep the plants alive in such a setup, one cannot expect the animal to survive. Plants, branches and small rocks satisfy the urge to climb. Drip systems using IV bags, rain cartons (2.5 gallon square water containers with 15-20 holes poked in the bottom and placed on top of the cage), and/or frequent misting and bubble stones are used for humidity and drinking. One must remember that the flow of water must be sufficient to catch the eye of the chameleon (fairly rapid drip) and drip near favorite perches to prevent lack of water intake and dehydration, a common problem in these species.

DIET Consists of crickets, grasshoppers, cockroaches, wax and flour moths, mealworms, slugs and large flies. Breeding your own tropical green cockroaches or maggots can easily be done and is described in many books. Field collecting in pesticide/herbicide free areas may be the best. All insects must be fed a balanced and nutritious diet prior to being fed and dusting with a vitamin/mineral supplement one to two times weekly may be necessary.