I have been fussing with a Deere 318 tractor for a number of weeks now. The engine is good(compressions comparable

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Customer: I have been fussing with a John Deere 318 tractor for a number of weeks now. The engine is good(compressions comparable around 120 lbs.) the float etc. have been changed out, along with carburetor soaking before the "rebuild". The engine runs, but not enough power for mowing. Why? there is no spark on one side of the coil! A sparkplug and wire attached to one side will spark but when attached at the "positive" post of the coil will not spark. I have a new coil, but when I temperarily wired it in, that gives the same result-spark on the negative post only.
Answered by Hank F. in 5 days 14 years ago
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Have you checked the points to be sure that they are opening for both cylinders. If the point gap is too close, and not breaking for each time, you will get spark only when the points break. I would examine the points. You have tried the coil and it does the same thing, so I assume it is ok. Let me know. Thanks.
Customer
My dad gave me this tractor and everything I know says that it is solid state. Are there points then?
The older 318s had a onan b43g, they have points, the later units have the onan p218g, which is solid state. Do you know which one you have? The b43g uses a coil that looks like an automotive coil, but has two outputs. The p218g uses a coil that is square in shape and has an ignition control mounted on the front crankshaft cover.
Customer
I have P218g the engine serial number is XXXXX
The coil is not square in profile, it is round with two ports where the sparkplug wires go. I have not located the ignition control. When I ordered the coil from John Deere I just told them it was for a 318 and it was solid state. The part they sent is exactly the shape and design as the original.
MP69/MP6935_________UN01JAN94.gifThis should be the p218, from the john deere catalog.P/N HE541-0522 is item #11
Customer
I can see why there is confusion. I have a new coil here which matches the old in shape. The paperwork all indicates that the p/n = H541-0522 but it does not match the john deere diagram shape you show. Sorry to take so long to get back to you but we are getting closer to an answer I feel. thanks so far
The pickup mounts directly under the round armature on the front cover.
Customer
Dear Curtis- I have not found the pickup yet. I am working on what I would call the "back" of the engine and found a broken wire. I am still curious about the pickup location, but here is a photo. If you can give me a clue about where the broken wire should terminate, i am thinking that the missing spark may return. I cannot see where the end belongs yet.

sideways jd318 engine
Which is the broken wire? the one with the white ribbon on it? Where is the wire to the oil pressure switch next to the filter? I have what is labeled as a wiring schematic for a 318 after s/n 475001.??curtis b40405.0533102199
Customer
Thanks for the schematic but the serial number thing is nutty: My engine s/n = K863154135 . The product #(?) is: M00318X423293. That doesn't look like it is after 475000 but I don't know which six digits matter...or if the tractor s/n is just different from the engine number...
Yeah, that white thing labels the top of the broken wire...near the other broken end, there is no fragment or anything coming out of the oil pressure switch, so I assumed that was not the terminal point. can I unscrew that thing and somehow get the pressure signal out...I should pay you for an answer if we are changing topics temporarily...I didn't imagine there were so many issues with this machine...
Customer
I am seeing from this diagram that a white wire is supposed to go to the oil pressure sensor and it feeds together with a coil wire (also white) and a red wire. So, yes, absolutely, the oil pressure sensor is out of circuit presently...the diagram is similar enough to confirm this. Great. So, if that has no bearing on the spark problem, I will fix it and proceed to find that control you mentioned. Help me understand, from my picture, is it left, or right (back towards the battery or front towards the muffler?
The circular piece is inside the gear case and the sensor is under it. It is the backside of the engine ,opposite the flywheel.

Hello,Customer

 

I believe I can save you a lot of trouble here.

You do not need to tear the engine down to get at the ignition controls.

I can assure you that the ignition module and trigger ring (the circular thing), are working properly. If they weren't, you would be getting no spark to either plug.

 

The way this ignition system works is this:

The coil has 2 windings in it - the primary and the secondary. The primary winding is the winding with the 2 small posts (positive and negative). The secondary winding is the winding that the spark plug wires attach to.

Battery voltage is fed to the coil's positive post, and then to the ignition module, through the red wire (in your photo, it looks like yours has faded to orange).

The ignition module is a set of magnetically operated contacts, which open and close like a set of points.

The trigger ring, which is mounted under the flywheel (not inside the gearbox), snaps on to the crankshaft. It has 2 magnets inside it (positive and negative), mounted 180 degrees apart.

As the trigger ring spins, one magnet opens the contacts in the ignition module, and the other magnet closes the contacts.

When the contacts are closed, the 12V is fed back to the negative terminal of the coil through the black wire on the ignition module, and on to ground.

When the voltage is ran through the primary winding of the coil, it creates a very strong magnetic field inside the coil. This magnetic field goes around the secondary winding. As the magnetic field collapses when the IM contacts are opened, it creates a strong surge of power in the secondary winding. This process is called induction.

When the current moves in the secondary winding, it is sent to the spark plugs.

Both plugs are connected inside the coil, so both plugs fire at the same time, twice every revolution - once on the compression stroke, and once on the exhaust stroke.

 

If you are having spark on one plug, there are only 3 causes for the other plug to not have spark:

1. A bad spark plug.

2. A bad coil.

3. A bad spark plug wire.

 

The coil is very easy to test with an ohmmeter.

Remove all wires from the coil.

Set your meter to ohms, and connect the leads across the primary winding (the small posts). It should read 2.9 - 3.6 ohms.

Now connect the leads across the secondary winding (the spark plug wire terminals). It should read 14,500 - 19,800 ohms.

 

When reconnecting the coil, the black wire from the ignition module will go to the negative terminal, and the positive terminal will take the red wire from the ignition module, the capacitor wire, and the 12V supply wire.

 

Hank F.40407.1765500347
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