MINI Cooper Clutch Replacement (R50/R52/R53 2001-2006) | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

MINI Cooper R50 Clutch Replacement

  • Parts Required: Complete clutch kit
  • Performance Gain: Smoother shifting, no power loss
  • Complementary Modification: Replace starter, overhaul shift bushings, replace flywheel

One of the most common repair procedures for the MINI is the replacement of the clutch assembly (See Figure 1).

Unfortunately, it is a rather big process involving the removal of the transmission. The good news is that it's really not a super-difficult job if you have some information, and a few hints and tips. The first step is to remove the front bumper assembly and the front subframe. See our articles on both front subframe removal and front bumper removal for more info. Disconnect the battery before you begin as we will be working around the starter.

The first step is to remove the axles from the car. On the end of each wheel is a large 32mm nut that secures the axle shaft to the wheel housing. You'll see that one side of the nut has a locking tab that fits into a slot on the axle. Use a standard screwdriver to pry the locking tab up. Don't worry about damaging the nut as you will want to replace this nut when you re-install the axles (See Figure 2 and Figure 3).

You'll probably have to use an impact gun to remove the axle nut. These nuts are usually torqued down to well over 200 ft/lbs (See Figure 4 and Figure 5). The impact gun makes short work of this job. Otherwise, you'll have to loosen these nuts with the car on the ground, with the tires fitted and a very long breaker bar. If you can borrow an impact for just this step, it will be worth it. Once the nuts are off, use a puller to press the axle shaft out of the wheel bearing/housing. You may also want to consider leaving the axles installed in the wheel housings and simply remove them from the end of the front struts.

Now drain the transmission (See our article on changing transmission fluid for more info) and use a standard screwdriver top carefully pry the dust seal out of each side of the transmission. As you do, it will free up the drive axle. (See Figure 6 and Figure 7). Give each a good tug and remove the axles from the car. On the passenger side of the car, you will also have to remove the four bolts holding the axle carrier to the engine block.

Now remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission. If you are replacing the slave, go ahead and remove the hydraulic connection. Otherwise, just set it aside still connected as it is somewhat difficult to bleed the air out (See Figure 8). If you are not going to replace slave cylinder install the special bleeding tool to ensure piston rod of slave does not come out while replacing clutch. If the piston rod does come out than you will have to replace slave cylinder. See our article on slave cylinder removal for more info.

Move up to the top of the transmission and pry the gearshift cable ends off the transmission (See Figure 9). Also squeeze the metal clips securing the cables in the retainer and remove them as well (See our article on replacing gearshift cables for more info).

In order to remove the transmission, most of the intake assembly must be removed. Refer to our articles on Water pump removal and cold air installation for more info. With the lower plastic air duct and throttle body removed you will have access to the bracket underneath. This bracket holds the throttle body in place and also holds the electrical harness box at the front. Remove the 10mm nut as well as the two 14mm bolts holding the bracket to the transmission (See Figure 10 and Figure 11). At the very right of the harness you will see a 16mm bolt underneath. This bolt holds the harness at the rear. This bolt is also one of the mounting bolts holding the transmission to the engine (See Figure 12).

Now move up to behind the engine and remove the two 13mm bolts securing the exhaust manifold heat shield to the cylinder head. Pull back the heat shield covering the exhaust manifold and remove it. It may take a little maneuvering to get it out of the way (See Figure 13 and Figure 14). Now look down between the manifold runners. You'll see a small 10mm bolt holding the heat shield for the starter in place. Carefully remove this bolt. This will allow you to position the shield out of the way to access the mounting bolts and the electrical connections for the starter (See Figure 15). Now move down under the car and remove the electrical connection going to the reverse light switch (See Figure 16).

The next step is to remove the starter. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the cover shield just below the starter and remove the cover (See Figure 17). Also remove the 16mm bolt to the right of the lower cover bolt. This bolt secures the transmission to the engine on this side of the transmission. The other bolt is the one right above securing the starter to the transmission. Now remove the upper mounting bolt for the starter. This bolt isn't visible form underneath and will take a little maneuvering to reach. Use a long extension and ratchet to remove it (See Figure 18). Now remove the lower mounting bolt holding the starter (See Figure 19).

With the lower starter bolt removed, you will be able to move the starter heat shield by sliding the locating grommet off the pin and access the electrical connections to the starter (See Figure 20). Make sure that you have disconnected the battery before doing this. Also remove the electrical connection to the solenoid above. This is a bit difficult to see and you may have to go by feel on this one (See Figure 21). Now remove the starter and the heat shield (See Figure 22).

Now it's time to remove the 16mm mounting bolts holding the transmission to the engine. There are 7 bolts in total, two of which you should already have removed. Work your way around the engine (See Figures 23, 24 and 25) and remove all the bolts. Now place a floor jack under the transmission and jack stands under the engine with a block of wood to support them. Now remove the large 16mm bolt holding the two parts of the transmission mount together (See Figure 26). Now remove the upper and lower portions of the transmission mount. Refer to our article on replacing engine mounts for more information (See Figure 27). Keep in mind that the weight of the transmission will now be partly supported by the floor jack.

Perform a last minute check around the transmission to check for any items that may still be hooked up and with the engine secured on the jack, slowly separate the transmission from the engine. It may help to carefully pry the transmission from the engine using a standard screwdriver. Take your time and pull the engine straight back until the input shaft of the transmission has pulled out of the clutch disc. Use extreme caution here as the jack will be the only thing supporting the transmission. It's recommended that you have a friend help you guide the transmission off the engine and down out of the car (See Figures 28 through 31).

Now it's time to start disassembling the clutch mechanism. Locate the six E8 Torx bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel (See Figures 32, 33 and 34). Usually, you have to lock the flywheel to prevent it form turning as you remove these bolts, however, they are torqued down to only 17ft/lbs. so they are easy to break loose while you hold the pressure plate with your hand. Use a criss-cross pattern when loosening the bolts. It's a good idea to invest in a good set of Torx sockets, both male and female. Don't try to use a regular hex socket on these bolts. They are very easy to round off. On this particular car, I found that one of the pressure plate bolts had been rounded off when I tried to remove it.  If this happens, use a Dremel tool and cut them off in about 1 minute.  Don't waste your time trying vice-grips or other foolish methods - you can cut them off, and you don't need to worry about damaging the pressure plate because you're going to be replacing it anyways. The trick is to cut the bolt head off flush with the pressure plate, then simply pull the pressure plate off and unscrew the remainder of the bolt.

Once the bolts have been unscrewed, remove the pressure plate. Underneath the pressure plate is the clutch disc. This is the part of the clutch that makes physical contact with the flywheel until you press the pedal. It's also a good idea to have a tarp underneath as you'll probably dump a fair amount of clutch dust onto the ground (See Figure 35). Typically, if the clutch disc is badly worn, you'll see that the friction material will be worn down past the rivets holding the disc together. Also, if your flywheel shows any signs of heat glazing or scratches, it's best to take it to a machine shop to have the face of the flywheel re-surfaced. This is also called 'turning' the flywheel. The idea is to give the new clutch disc a good surface to bite into. If the surface is heat glazed and not turned, it can begin to slip. Remove the eight bolts holding the flywheel on in a criss-cross pattern to relieve the torque evenly (See Figure 36).

You'll want to lock the flywheel to remove the bolts holding the flywheel to the engine. These bolts are typically torqued down very tight and you'll find that the flywheel will just turn as you try to loosen them with a breaker bar. In our case, I simply used a BMW water pump removal tool with one of the transmission bolts and also one of the pressure plate bolts. However, any flat piece of steel with two holes will work. The factory tool bolts onto the other side of the engine at the harmonic balancer, which requires and extra set of hands to hold as you loosen the bolts. In our case, we used an electric impact gun to make quick work of the flywheel bolts. Again, loosen them in a criss-cross pattern to relieve the torque evenly and support the flywheel as you loosen the last bolt as it is quite heavy (See Figure 37 and Figure 38).

The next step is to replace the rear main seal. This seal is an important one as it seals the gap between the crankshaft at the engine block. If this seal were to fail, it would start leaking oil all over the ground and likely onto the clutch plate as well, rending your clutch basically useless. This is one of those 'while you're in there' items that really should be replaced. Carefully use a screwdriver to grab one edge of the seal and pry it out a little at a time. The inside edge of the seal is metal, so it will likely take some time to get this seal all the way out. (See Figures 39, 40 and 41).

Now, fit the new seal into the gap between the end of the crankshaft and the engine block. BMW specifies to use of a special tool to drive the seal in, but you can do one of two things here instead. You can either find a section of ABS pipe roughly the same diameter as the seal and carefully drive the seal in or, you can cautiously tap the seal in one section at a time in small increments. The idea here is to install the seal with out cocking it inside the gap. Take your time and make sure it seats flush with the cylinder block. Getting the seal started around the crankshaft can be a bit tricky. Make sure that the lip is oriented correctly and don't touch the lip with bare fingers (See Figure 42).

At this point, you'll want to turn your attention to the transmission, and refurbish the throw-out bearing and arm. Remove the bearing from the plastic hub. This is the portion of the throwout bearing that has direct contact with the pressure plate. Now rotate the throwout arm to allow the plastic retaining hub to be removed (See Figures 43, 44 and 45). Remove the bolt securing the bearing fork to the throwout arm. Rotate the arm enough for the fork to clear the input shaft and pull it down enough to allow you to access the bolts securing the input shaft seal to the transmission (See Figure 46 and Figure 47). Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding the input shaft seal cover/guide tube to the transmission. Carefully pry the input shaft seal cover/guide tube up off the flange and you will see the input shaft seal directly underneath (See Figure 49 and Figure 50).

Now you will need to remove the fork on the throwout arm. The fork is a tight fit on the throwout arm. I found that if I used a pair of channel locks, I was able to press the fork off the throwout arm. You need to pull the throwout arm off in order to replace the two plastic bushings that sit at the top and bottom of the arm. Now remove the plastic bushing at the top where the throwout arm fits. The lower bushing should also come out When you remove the throwout arm from the transmission. This also allows you a little extra room to remove the input shaft seal (See Figure 51 and Figure 52).

Use a small pick or other means to carefully pry the input shaft seal out. This seal prevents transmission oil from leaking out past the input shaft and potentially onto the clutch disc. if this happens, it could cause the clutch to slip. Take care as you remove the old seal as the input shaft bearing retainer is directly below the seal and can be damaged easily. Clean the input shaft and slide the new input shaft seal down over the shaft in to place. Carefully press the new shaft seal into position using either the factory tool or a section of pipe roughly the same size as the seal until it sits flush (See Figure 53, 54 and 55).

Now fit the new upper throwout bearing into the slot in the transmission casing. Take note of the tab molded into the bushing and the notch in the casing. Also press the lower bushing into position from outside the transmission (See Figure 56 and Figure 57). Re-fit the input shaft seal cover/guide tube over the new shaft seal. Use the new shaft cover bolts and tighten down the shaft seal cover to 6Nm (4.5ft/lbs.) (See Figures 58 and 59).

Lubricate the lower portion of the throwout arm with lithium moly grease before inserting it into the new lower shift bushing. As you push the throwout arm up through the lower shift bushing, fit the bearing fork over the arm and slide it down so that the hole in the fork lines up with the threaded hole in the throwout arm. After you press the fork into place, lubricate the top part of the arm with lithium moly grease before placing it up into the new upper bushing (See Figure 60, 61 and 62). Now fit the new bolt into the fork, securing it to the throwout arm (See Figure 63).

Rotate the throwout arm fork out to slide the new throwout bearing over the guide tube so that the arms of the fork fit into the slots on the underside of the bearing. Lubricate the shaft splines prior to installing the transmission back into the car with some lithium moly grease (See Figures 64, 65 and 66).

Just a quick note here, but it is important the keep the throwout arm and bearing rotated back towards the transmission when installing the transmission. Inadvertently, I had moved the arm forward while I was trying to get the input shaft of the transmission to line up with the clutch. I wasn't able to do, requiring me to lower the transmission out of the car and inspect to see what the problem was. If you move the lever forward enough, it will cock the bearing on the input shaft as seen in Figure 67. It's a good idea to zip tie the throwout arm lever to the stand off for the clutch slave cylinder to keep it in place prior to installation.

Now back to the engine. With the new rear main seal fitted, it's time to remount the flywheel to the engine. Take note of the small mark on the end of the crankshaft. The Flywheel will have a mark on the mounting face to corresponds with this mark. It's important to make sure that these marks line up as you mount the flywheel. With the flywheel mounted, thread in all the bolts snug and set up the flywheel lock so you can torque the bolts without the engine turning. Now torque the mounting bolts using a criss-cross pattern to 90Nm (66 ft/lbs.) each (See Figures 68 through 71).

Now place the clutch disc onto the flywheel. It's important to note the direction in which the disc is facing. There will be writing on the disc surface indicating the direction. On some clutch kits, the disc with say "gearbox side" In our case, the clutch reads "Getriebeseite" which is German for "gearbox side". Make sure the side with the writing is facing the direction of the transmission (See Figure 73).

Now take the new pressure plate and orient it so that the three open holes on the outside diameter fit onto the three dowel pins on the flywheel. You'll also want to use the clutch alignment tool pressed through the clutch disc in order to position to clutch disc in the center (See Figure 74).

Most clutch kits come with a plastic clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc when you tighten down the pressure plate. In the case of the MINI, the kit does not include this tool. At the time of this writing, the factory alignment tool was well over $100. However I found a cheaper solution. Kingsbourne makes a plastic alignment tool (p.n. GM6) that fits General Motors 2.8L V6 engines as well as the Saab 900SE and 9-3. This tool is around $10 through Pelican Parts. The catch here is that you have to apply force on the tool to keep the disc centered as you torque the pressure plate bolts to the flywheel to 23Nm (17 ft/lbs.) (M8) (See Figure 74) - (for M9 bolts, torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs.).

Now place the transmission back on your floor jack and lift it up into position to be remounted. In my opinion, this is the most difficult part of the job. I recommend having a few friends help you to position the transmission. The idea is to get the input shaft on the transmission to slide into the clutch disc on the engine. It's helpful to thread some rope through one of the holes of the transmission to help rotate it forward. The casing of the transmission makes it a little difficult to get centered exactly on the bottom of the floor jack. The idea is to rotate the transmission enough to locate a few of the mounting bolts. Once the mounting holes line up, thread in the mounting bolts. This will allow just enough space for you to fit a standard screwdriver inside the transmission to turn the flywheel slightly with the starter teeth. Sometimes, the splines on the clutch disc and also the input shaft of the transmission will not mesh perfectly. Turning the flywheel slightly while a helper pushes on the transmission will usually allow the transmission to slide into place. Once seated flush against the engine, re fit all the mounting bolts and torque them to spec (See Figures 75 through 78). After that, all that's left is to reassemble the various components of the transmission, suspension, drive axles and front subframe.

I wish I could say this was an easy job, but it's not. It's not impossible, but there's a lot of stuff to remove and a lot of tricky spots. One of the things that you want to do is purchase a complete kit that contains everything that you need for the job: all of the nuts, bolts and bushings, as this will be a huge timesaver. The only place that currently sells such a kit is PelicanParts.com.

Hot tip

Purchase a kit with everything in it, not some simple version

Wayne R. Dempsey, Co-Founder & DIY Expert

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Project Photos

Figure 1 Shown here is a complete clutch kit including the dual mass flywheel for the MINI Cooper S. Shown here are the flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, rear main seal, Input shaft seal, throwout bearing, throwout arm bushings, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, input shaft seal cover bolts and the throwout arm fork bolt.
Figure 2 Start by removing the large 32mm nuts securing the axle shafts to the wheel housing.
Figure 3 Use a standard screwdriver to pry the locking tab up. Don't worry about damaging the nut as you will want to replace this nut when you re-install the axles.
Figure 4 You'll probably have to use an impact gun to remove the axle nut. These nuts are usually torqued down to well over 200 ft/lbs. The impact gun makes short work of this job.
Figure 5 Shown here is one of the axle nuts removed. At this point, remove the brake caliper and rotor assembly and use a puller to press the axle shaft out of the wheel bearing.
Figure 6 Once the axles have been removed, You may want to remove the brakes and wheel housings to allow a bit more space to work. Disconnect the ABS sensors from each housing and remove the clamp securing the housing to the strut. See our article on front brakes for more information. Now remove the front bumper and front subframe. (See our articles on each for more info).

Note: It is possible to not remove the axles from your wheel hubs. Instead, just pop the inner CV joint shafts out of the transmission, and then twist the entire axle/strut/hub assembly 90 degrees so the axles point to the rear of the car. That gets them out of the way...no need to take the axle nut off and pull the axles out of the hubs. However, we at Pelican do not advocate this as it puts a lot of stress on the axle joints. The choice is yours. 
Figure 7 Drain the transmission. Use a standard screwdriver top carefully pry the dust seal out of each side of the transmission. As you do, it will free up the drive axle. Give each a good tug and remove the axles from the car. On the passenger side of the car, you will also have to remove the four bolts holding the axle carrier to the engine block.
Figure 8 Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission. If you are replacing the slave, go ahead and remove the hydraulic connection. Otherwise, just set it aside still connected as it is somewhat difficult to bleed the air out.
Figure 9 Remove the shift cables from the transmission by prying them up and off. It helps to use two screwdrivers here to evenly apply pressure to each side of the joint. Once free, squeeze the metal clips holding them into the black plastic retainer and pull the cables out.
Figure 10 With the lower plastic air duct and throttle body removed you will have access to the bracket underneath. This bracket holds the throttle body in place and also holds the electrical harness box at the front (yellow arrow). Remove the 10mm nut as well as the two 14mm bolts holding the bracket to the transmission.
Figure 11 Shown here is the plastic box holding the electrical harnesses for most of the engine/transmission. You will need to position this up and out of the way to access the transmission mounting bolts underneath.
Figure 12 At the very right of the harness you will see a 16mm bolt underneath. This bolt holds the harness at the rear (green arrow). This bolt is also one of the mounting bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
Figure 13 Remove the two 13mm bolts securing the exhaust manifold heat shield to the cylinder head.
Figure 14 Pull back the heat shield covering the exhaust manifold and remove it. It may take a little maneuvering to get it out of the way.
Figure 15 In between the manifold, you'll see a small 10mm bolt holding the heat shield for the starter in place. Carefully remove this bolt. This will allow you to position the shield out of the way to access the mounting bolts and the electrical connections for the starter.
Figure 16 Now move down to under the car, but don't forget to remove the electrical connection for the reverse lights (green arrow).
Figure 17 Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the cover shield just below the starter and remove the cover. Also remove the 16mm bolt (green arrow) to the right of the cover. This bolt secures the transmission to the engine on this side of the transmission.
Figure 18 Remove the upper mounting bolt for the starter. This bolt isn't visible form underneath and will take a little maneuvering to reach. Use a long extension and ratchet to remove it.
Figure 19 Now remove the lower mounting bolt holding the starter.
Figure 20 Now position the heat shield to the side by sliding the locating grommet off the pin and access the electrical connections to the starter (green arrow). NOTE: Make sure that you have disconnected the battery before doing this.
Figure 21 Don't forget to also remove the electrical connection going to the solenoid (green arrow). This is right above the connection in Figure 20.
Figure 22 Remove the starter from underneath the car and set it aside.
Figure 23 Remove the two lower 16mm mounting bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
Figure 24 Remove the mounting bolt on the front of the engine which also holds the bracket for the alternator wiring and let the harness hang free (green arrow).
Figure 25 Remove the two remaining mounting bolts (green arrows).
Figure 26 Support the engine on jack stands and place a floor jack under the transmission. Now remove the 16mm bolt securing the transmission to the mount.
Figure 27 Now remove the upper and lower portions of the transmission mount. Refer to our article on replacing engine mounts for more information.
Figure 28 Perform a last minute check around the transmission to check for any items that may still be hooked up and with the engine secured on the jack, slowly separate the transmission from the engine. Take your time and pull the engine straight back until the input shaft of the transmission has pulled out of the clutch disc.
Figure 29 In this picture you can see the input shaft of the transmission free of the clutch. As you lower the transmission free of the car, you will need to rotate it in order to clear the driver's side frame rail.
Figure 30 Show here is the clutch assembly on the end of the engine with the transmission removed.
Figure 31 Here is a front view of the engine compartment with the transmission removed. The engine is supported by a jackstand underneath along with the58 engine mount on the passenger side frame rail.
Figure 32 Shown here are the locations of the six E8 Torx bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel (green arrows). Usually, you have to lock the flywheel to prevent it form turning as you remove these bolts, however, they are torqued down to only 17ft/lbs. so they are easy to break loose while you hold the pressure plate with your hand. Use a criss-cross pattern when loosening the bolts.
Figure 33 Shown here is a close-up of one of the E8 Torx bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. It's a good idea to invest in a good set of Torx sockets, both male and female. Don't try to use a regular hex socket on these bolts.
Figure 34 On this particular car, I found that one of the pressure plate bolts had been rounded off when I tried to remove it. If this happens, use a Dremel tool and cut them off in about 1 minute. Don't waste your time trying vice-grips or other foolish methods - you can cut them off, and you don't need to worry about damaging the pressure plate because you're going to be replacing it anyways. The trick is to cut the bolt head off flush with the pressure plate, then simply pull the pressure plate off and unscrew the remainder of the bolt.
Figure 35 Once the bolts have been unscrewed, remove the pressure plate. Underneath the pressure plate is the clutch disc. This is the part of the clutch that makes physical contact with the flywheel until you press the pedal. It's also a good idea to have a tarp underneath as you'll probably dump a fair amount of clutch dust onto the ground.
Figure 36 If your flywheel shows any signs of heat glazing or scratches it's best to take it to a machine shop to have the face of the flywheel re-surfaced. This is also called 'turning' the flywheel. The idea is to give the new clutch disc a good surface to bite into. If the surface is heat glazed and not turned, it can begin to slip. Remove the eight bolts shown here (green arrows) in a criss-cross pattern to relieve the torque evenly.
Figure 37 You'll want to lock the flywheel to remove the bolts holding the flywheel to the engine. These bolts are typically torqued down very tight and you'll find that the flywheel will just turn as you try to loosen them with a breaker bar. In our case, I simply used a BMW water pump removal tool with one of the transmission bolts and also one of the pressure plate bolts. The factory tool bolts onto the other side of the engine at the harmonic balancer, which requires and extra set of hands to hold as you loosen the bolts.
Figure 38 In our case, we used an electric impact gun to make quick work of the flywheel bolts. Again, loosen them in a criss-cross pattern to relieve the torque evenly and support the flywheel as you loosen the last bolt as it is quite heavy.
Figure 39 Shown here is the engine with the flywheel removed.
Figure 40 The next step is to replace the rear main seal (green arrow). This seal is an important one as it seals the gap between the crankshaft at the engine block. If this seal were to fail, it would start leaking oil all over the ground and likely onto the clutch plate as well, rending your clutch basically useless. This is one of those 'while you're in there' items that really should be replaced.
Figure 41 Carefully use a screwdriver to grab one edge of the seal and pry it out a little at a time. The inside edge of the seal is metal, so it will likely take some time to get this seal all the way out.
Figure 42 Now, fit the new seal into the gap between the end of the crankshaft and the engine block. BMW specifies to use of a special tool to drive the seal in, but you can do one of two things here instead. You can either find a section of ABS pipe roughly the same diameter as the seal and carefully drive the seal in or, you can cautiously tap the seal in one section at a time in small increments. The idea here is to install the seal with out cocking it inside the gap. Take your time and make sure it seats flush with the cylinder block. Getting the seal started around the crankshaft can be a bit tricky. Make sure that the lip is oriented correctly and don't touch the lip with bare fingers.
Figure 43 Now it's time to move over to the transmission. Inside the transmission is the mechanism that is directly responsible for actuating the clutch. The throwout bearing runs along the face of the pressure plate.
Figure 44 Remove the bearing from the plastic hub. This is the portion of the throwout bearing that has direct contact with the pressure plate.
Figure 45 Now rotate the throwout arm to allow the plastic retaining hub to be removed.
Figure 46 Remove the bolt securing the bearing fork to the throwout arm.
Figure 47 Now rotate the arm enough for the fork to clear the input shaft and pull it down enough to allow you to access the bolts securing the input shaft seal to the transmission.
Figure 48 Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the input shaft seal cover/guide tube to the transmission.
Figure 49 Carefully pry the input shaft seal cover/guide tube up off the flange.
Figure 50 Remove the shaft seal cover/guide tube and you will see the input shaft seal directly underneath.
Figure 51 The fork is a tight fit on the throwout arm. I found that if I used a pair of channel locks, I was able to press the fork off the throwout arm. You need to pull the throwout arm off in order to replace the two plastic bushings that sit at the top and bottom of the arm.
Figure 52 Now remove the plastic bushing at the top where the throwout arm fits. The lower bushing should also come out When you remove the throwout arm from the transmission. This also allows you a little extra room to remove the input shaft seal.
Figure 53 Use a small pick or other means to carefully pry the input shaft seal out. This seal prevents transmission oil from leaking out past the input shaft and potentially onto the clutch disc. If this happens, it could cause the clutch to slip. Take care as you remove the old seal as the input shaft bearing retainer is directly below the seal and can be damaged easily.
Figure 54 Clean the input shaft and slide the new input shaft seal down over the shaft in to place.
Figure 55 Carefully press the new shaft seal into position using either the factory tool or a section of pipe roughly the same size as the seal until it sits flush.
Figure 56 Now fit the new upper throwout bearing into the slot in the transmission casing. Take note of the tab molded into the bushing and the notch in the casing.
Figure 57 Fit the new lower bushing into the transmission casing as shown.
Figure 58 Re-fit the input shaft seal cover/guide tube over the new shaft seal.
Figure 59 Use the new shaft cover bolts and tighten down the shaft seal cover.
Figure 60 Now lubricate the lower portion of the throwout arm with lithium moly grease before inserting it into the new lower shift bushing.
Figure 61 As you push the throwout arm up through the lower shift bushing, fit the bearing fork over the arm and slide it down so that the hole in the fork lines up with the threaded hole in the throwout arm.
Figure 62 As you press the fork into place, lubricate the top part of the arm with lithium moly grease before placing it up into the new upper bushing.
Figure 63 Now fit the new bolt into the fork, securing it to the throwout arm.
Figure 64 Rotate the throwout arm fork out to slide the new throwout bearing over the guide tube so that the arms of the fork fit into the slots on the underside of the bearing.
Figure 65 Shown here is the completed throwout arm assembly with new bearing installed in the transmission.
Figure 66 Lubricate the shaft splines prior to installing the transmission back into the car with some lithium moly grease.
Figure 67 It's important the keep the throwout arm and bearing rotated back towards the transmission when installing the transmission. Inadvertently, I had moved the arm forward while I was trying to get the input shaft of the transmission to line up with the clutch. I wasn't able to do, requiring me to lower the transmission out of the car and inspect to see what the problem was. If you move the lever forward enough, it will cock the bearing on the input shaft as seen here. It's a good idea to zip tie the throwout arm lever to the stand off for the clutch slave cylinder to keep it in place prior to installation.
Figure 68 Now back to the engine. With the new rear main seal fitted, it's time to remount the flywheel to the engine. Take note of the small mark on the end of the crankshaft (green arrow). This is the alignment mark for the flywheel.
Figure 69 Shown here is the flywheel mounted on the end of the crank. The green arrow points to the alignment mark on the flywheel. You'll want to orient the flywheel so that these two alignment marks are in the same position when you mount the flywheel. Take care as the flywheel is rather heavy.
Figure 70 With the flywheel mounted, thread in all the bolts snug and set up the flywheel lock so you can torque the bolts without the engine turning.
Figure 71 It's a good idea to use all new bolts when mounting the flywheel back onto the engine. For the Cooper S, torque them using a criss-cross pattern and torque each bolt to 90Nm (66 ft/lbs.) (for Non-S, torque to 80Nm (59 ft-lbs.)).
Figure 72 Now place the clutch disc onto the flywheel. It's important to note the direction in which the disc is facing. There will be writing on the disc surface indicating the direction. On some clutch kits, the disc with say "gearbox side" In our case, the clutch reads "Getriebeseite" which is German for gearbox side. Make sure the side with the writing is facing the direction of the transmission.
Figure 73 Now take the new pressure plate and orient it so that the three open holes on the outside diameter fit onto the three dowel pins on the flywheel. You'll also want to use the clutch alignment tool pressed through the clutch disc in order to position to clutch disc in the center (green arrows). Thread in the new Torx bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel (purple arrows).
Figure 74 Most clutch kits come with a plastic clutch alignment tool to center the clutch disc when you tighten down the pressure plate. In the case of the MINI, the kit does not include this tool. At the time of this writing, the factory alignment tool was well over $100. However I found a cheaper solution. Kingsbourne makes a plastic alignment tool (p.n. GM6) that fits General Motors 2.8L V6 engines as well as the Saab 900SE and 9-3. This tool is around $10 through Pelican Parts. The catch here is that you have to apply force on the tool to keep the disc centered as you torque the pressure plate bolts to (M8 bolt) 23Nm (17 ft/lbs.)
Figure 75 Now place the transmission back on your floor jack and lift it up into position to be remounted. In my opinion, this is the most difficult part of the job. I recommend having a few friends help you to position the transmission. The idea is to get the input shaft on the transmission to slide into the clutch disc on the engine.
Figure 76 It's helpful to thread some rope through one of the holes of the transmission to help rotate it forward. The casing of the transmission makes it a little difficult to get centered exactly on the bottom of the floor jack. The idea is to rotate the transmission enough to locate a few of the mounting bolts. The green arrows show the dowels that need to line up.
Figure 77 Here's a view of where you can thread the rope or chain to move the transmission.

Comments and Suggestions

Connor

February 3, 2024

I was wondering, when replacing the clutch if you absolutely NEED the alignment tool. Is it possible to do it without?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You need it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Dan

November 12, 2023

Hi, I changed the clutch on my daughters '03 cooper r50 as well as the shift cables, driveshafts and master and slave clutch cylinders. I'm now finding it difficult, needs a bit of force, to get into

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If it shifts smooth with the engine off, but not on, it is likely an issue with the clutch disc parts or hydraulics. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Ryan B

March 20, 2023

I have a 2006 mini Cooper s and I’m in the process of replacing the stock dual mass flywheel clutch with a valeo clutch kit with solid flywheel. After putting it back together and connecting

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You might need a non SAC fork or the new flywheel is thinner. You will want to take some measurements to determine where the space is off. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Ladygreasemonkey

March 19, 2023

Do you have a link to this tool? I didn't see it mentioned in your article here, and not in the Bentley manual either. Are you talking about the finger compression tool?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

MINI Special Clutch tools # 212 170 and 210 010, give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts

miniac

March 15, 2023

Does this apply to a 2008 MC convertible R52 Non S?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Applicable Models: R52 MINI Cooper Convertible (2005-08) R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08) R53 MINI Cooper S Hatchback (2002-06) - Nick at Pelican Parts

Lady Greasemonkey

March 13, 2023

So, no ideas on what may have gone awry? Another shop tells me it's because it's a special auto adjuster and we didn't adjust the springs. I believe he's talking about the reset springs on the SAC.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

if you have a self-adjusting clutch (SAC) , you do need a special tool to set and release the pressure plate when installing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Lady Greasemonkey

February 23, 2023

Great article. Followed it by the book, replaced clutch and flywheel, and things went smoothly. 2012 Clubman S, R55, DMF
New clutch grabbed quick off the floor, but shifting felt slightly hard.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for sharing your repair process and experience. These types of comments add so much to the Pelican tech community. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Aquila

October 28, 2020

Nick - Thank you so much for the response to my earlier question. I was able to check out the clutch switch. One other question, I may have missed this. With the front subframe out, does the

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, use an engine support at the top of the engine. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Aquila

October 26, 2020

I am about to take on this job on a 2004 MCS. The clutch failed while I was driving and I was able to limp the car home. Now, the car won't start at all. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Check if the clutch switch is out of adjustment or faulty. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Fault_nut

August 31, 2020

Question: I had no problems with my 2005 Cooper S, then was pulling up to a light and the clutch pedal only engaged near the floor. It was difficult to get in & out of gear, and the clutch would not

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, if the pressure plate has failed or disc / pressure plate has worn past the slave throw, it will act like a faulty hydraulic component. - Nick at Pelican Parts

EIFION

August 18, 2020

A really excellent step by step guide with very helpful pictures.Started sub.frame removal at 7.00 am and had the new clutch installed and the car back on the road by 5.00 pm,the same day-without

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jorgenrique

July 30, 2020

I do not know how you can remove the transmission without removing the subframe?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The first step is to remove the front bumper assembly and the front subframe. See our articles on both front subframe removal and front bumper removal for more info. Disconnect the battery before you

Al

May 19, 2020

RE: What is nutetral on the transmission? That's my question. Thanks

My Question is how to make sure the transmission is in neutral and shifter in car and transmission are in sync. Thanks in

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Place the shifter in neutral. Then align the levers to the cables. As you pop them on, put shifter back in neutral if it moves. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Al 77

May 15, 2020

Thank you so much for this helpful article. Really awesome resource. Have a 2005 R52 S. Manual 6 speed Greta. Used your guide and pulled the transmission out. Installed the valeo kit. When my friend

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

When attaching the cables, move the shift lever to neutral. Then align the shift lever to the position of the cable end to pop on. You will find neutral that way. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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Ethan

April 6, 2020

where can i get this specific clutch alignment tool? Is there a part number you can provide?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The plastic one shown comes with a new clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts

johnnyv

August 5, 2019

"Take your time and make sure it seats flush with the cylinder block. Figure 42"
I should have reviewed your notes before installing the rear main oil seal. Once the seal was in place, I tapped it in

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The seal should sit flush with the crankcase housing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

RuiV

May 3, 2019

Sorry,i forgot to say:no grinder noises either.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Responded to your other post. - Nick at Pelican Parts

RuiV

May 3, 2019

I have a 2002 mini cooper-s and to get the first and reverse gear I have to turn off the car and then start it.Other gears ,no problems.I replaced the slave cylinder and bleed it.What can be the

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Either clutch is worn out or the trans has an internal failure. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Adam

December 20, 2018

Despite my best efforts, apparently I knicked the bearing retainer just a little bit. I cleaned out the area and was wondering if it was a big enough hit to warrant worry. If necessary, I guess

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I can't make out the damage in your photo, so I can't offer insight. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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James

September 10, 2018

Just need to confirm; In order to drop the subframe with an electric steering assist, is it just the one clamp-bolt in the driver's footwell? and the tie rods and electric connectors, of course...

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, it is the same as with hydraulic power steering, minus the hydraulic lines. The rack stays on subframe, the steering shaft, connectors and tie rods have to be removed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Towlie

August 6, 2018

Just to add, I did have to remove one of the gear lever things to get the gearbox out. Could I have put it back wrong somehow so now the cables are doing some weird gear combination? It does the same

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Got it, thanks. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Towlie

August 6, 2018

Hi, first of all, great guide! Unfortunately, I think something may have gone badly wrong... Fired her up still on stands, no wheels, pumped the clutch pedal till she felt good, slipped into 1st

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Traction control is coming on because the wheels are off the ground. - Nick at Pelican Parts

RT808

July 27, 2018

Is it necessary to drop the sub-frame which I'm trying to avoiding d more work.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

yes it is. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Dennis

July 10, 2018

Hello I have all bolts of transmission removed and separated about an inch
From engine it seems like there is no room in engine compartment to go any further I was thinking of removing the subframe

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

it is mentioned in the first paragrah: - Nick at Pelican Parts

June 23, 2018

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Mike

March 18, 2017

Digging up an old thread but I just finished a clutch install on my 2006 S. I wanted to add a small follow up on getting the gearbox back in the car. After fighting it on the jack for an hour, I

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Sweet custom tool idea!! I like it. Thanks for sharing, we DIY'ers must work together! - Casey at Pelican Parts

whobeyou

November 20, 2016

I need the part number for the Cover Shield listed in Step 17. Can anyone help me out? :

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I’m not the best with part numbers. Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

nick

October 17, 2016

Do you expect any major differences between this guide and reality if I'm following it on a 2003 R50 Mini Cooper Hatchback?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

No, should be pretty much the same. - Nick at Pelican Parts

AJ

April 26, 2016

What is the correct oil for the Getrag 6-speed trans?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

What vehicle? - Nick at Pelican Parts

AJ

April 26, 2016

I accidentally moved the shift mechanism on the transmission somewhere along the way. How do I make sure is it in the correct position before putting the trans back in the car?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It shouldn't matter, as the cables will attach to the it no matter the potion. For neutral, just move the levers to the center of the travel. - Nick at Pelican Parts

minimanic

March 11, 2016

What are the Torque specs for the mounting bolts? It says see figures 75 thru 78 but the figures only go to 77.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I don’t have that info. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Brian

January 18, 2016

I have performed this thanks to this excellent write up, and have started driving the car finally after a month in my garage. I replaced the clutch, flywheel, both rear and input shaft seals, and

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

No, they seal immediately. Something may be wrong with the seal. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mini Mike

January 9, 2016

Where can I get a new cover shield my mini didn't have one

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Simps

January 2, 2016

Hello I got a 2003 mini 5 sp there was no trans when I got it.I was having a hard time trying a 5 sp trans so I got a 6 sp.Now what I want to know is if the 5 sp and 6 sp have the same spline disc.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Best bet, check the part number for your clutch, then see what trans it goes to. To be sure, Give our parts specialists a call at 1-310-626-8765 - Nick at Pelican Parts

Brian

November 26, 2015

I am looking for a super clutch kit for my 2006 Mini built in 11/05. When I follow the link on this page, it takes me to a super kit for a 2006 built after May 2006. What part number is required for

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I’m not the best with part numbers. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mike

November 5, 2015

Installed new pressure plate, clutch, fly, and throw bearing. I did not change the slave, but when I disconnected it from tranny I did not compress it while it sat off to the side. Now, tranny is

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would try bleeding the hydraulic system. If that doesn't do it, to you may need to replace the master and slave. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Ally

November 3, 2015

Ive just had a new clutch fitted in my 2006 mini cooper S, the clutch pedal is now very low and i was told this was because it was new, is this correct? Or does this mean there's air trapped & it

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Might be air trapped. I would have them check. However, i would expect it to be lower than the travel of a worn clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Dr.

September 10, 2015

My 2005 Mini Cooper S with 87,000 non hot roded miles has a clutch petal on the floor. I replaced the Master & Slave Cylinder and bleed with a pressure bleeder. No help! Exchanged both units with

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Does the clutch fork have resistance when pressed by hand? - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mike

June 9, 2015

I have a 2004 Cooper S with a slightly odd clutch issue. It starts to bite quite low on the pedal but seems to not fully engage until near the top BUT this changes with engine temp and which gear

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Maybe just a worn out clutch. That would be my guess. - Nick at Pelican Parts

2004 Tennessee

May 13, 2015

I replaced clutch and now the throw out bearing is making a noise. Is there a reason for this. The clutch only has about 10,000 miles on it.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Was the bearing replaced with the new clutch? - Nick at Pelican Parts

Coopspeed

May 12, 2015

2006 Mini Cooper S, does the throwout bearing guide tube get lubed?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Yes, a thin coating of Unirex S2 should be applied. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Coopspeed

May 6, 2015

Does the guide tube or throw out bearing get lubed where they make contact? If so is it lithium moly?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

What vehicle are you working on? I can check. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jt

April 25, 2015

never changed a clutch with a multi piece fly wheel, how much play is there suppose to be? also how thick is the clutch disc suppose to be, mine seems to be worn to the rivets?? and should the crank

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If close to the rivets, the friction disc is likely worn. I don't have a thickness spec. Dual-mass flywheels do have side to side movement when tightened down. This video shows how a Porsche

phill j

April 14, 2015

Question.have fitted new clutch,master cyl and slave to my 2004 Cooper,have bled system manually and with pressure bleeder and have good pedal with bleeder attached,as soon as bleeder removed unable

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It still needs bleeding. Very common for this to take some time. Once you pressure bleed it, try helping the slave extend as you manually bleed it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Captain

April 4, 2015

I had a the clutch replaced in a shop on my 2003 S... and I noticed the service engine light is on, i thought it was a inspection coming soon but is not.What can it be? thanks

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

COuld be something left unplugged or just coincidence. I would start by checking the DME for fault codes. This will be your best bet when diagnosing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Dee

March 6, 2015

Nick, you're correct, that afternoon I put in the old axle and things were golden. I was stressing for no reason. Thanks.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the follow up. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Dee

March 5, 2015

Just replaced my MCS clutch with a Valeo SMF kit. Before putting the radiator back etc. I turned on the car and noticed the passenger side axle isn't moving while in gear. Drivers side axle is out of

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You're trying to drive one axle without the other installed? Wait until you have both axles installed before chasing things like this. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mikal68

February 14, 2015

My clutch is hard to put in gear. When depressing the clutch there is a whinny noise. Please advise. And thank you

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Sounds like an issue with a bearing or a worn clutch. May be time for a replacement. - Nick at Pelican Parts

mattb

January 28, 2015

Good morning,

I need to replace the clutch in my 2007 Mini Cooper S. Is this article applicable to the 2007. Thanks much

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

No. this tech article applies to: R53 MINI Cooper S (2002-06) R52 MINI Cooper S Convertible (2005-08 I would grab a repair manual. It will list the special tools and each step of the procedure.

BigGunz

January 23, 2015

Nick,
I forgot to follow-up with you. The got the new slave cylinder installed and bled properly. I really like the feel of the Valeo kit. No complaints here; just Motoring on. Thanks for

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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Phil D

January 16, 2015

Is the throw out fork actuating arm secured to the throw out fork shaft with a pressed in pin or a bolt? It looks like a pin but it does not want to come out. See photo. Thanks!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

That is a pin that has to be knocked out. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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Phil D

January 16, 2015

Actually, I have not been able to remove the throw out fork. Here is another picture which shows the welded part more clearly. My guess this is a modification the previous owner made. Other than

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Ok I see it better now. On the far side away from the lever, on the right of the image. There is a pin that release the shaft. Then slide it out and remove it along with the bushings. I would

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Phil D

January 15, 2015

On my 2003 Cooper, the bearing release fork is welded to the throw out arm shaft. Any suggestions on how to replace the throw out arm bushings?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It looks like you got it out of the transmission. I would replace the arm and the bearing. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799 and they can help figure out which part or repair kit

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Brian

January 6, 2015

I am about to do a clutch on a 2009 Mini Cooper s. I know that it is different than this but really by how much? Can I use this as kind of a baseline? Does the front end come off in a similar way?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It is very different. Not much of a baseline using this article. I would grab a repair manual. It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs. Give our parts specialists a call at

Harris

January 6, 2015

Great write-up, just finished reassembly and the clutch pedal engagement point is high on the pedal, so high that it will not fully engage, I'm confident that the clutch fork was placed back to the

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Air would cause a low pedal. High is due to the travel not being sufficient. Check if the slave cylinder is seated correctly. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Jane

December 28, 2014

Hi Nick:

Can you please tell me what the average lifespan of a fully replaced clutch should be?

Many thanks for the great article!

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If treated nice, about 100k miles. - Nick at Pelican Parts

BigGunz

December 24, 2014

Thanks for the feedback Nick. I was able to bleed the slave cylinder a little better but I'm replacing it anyway just to be safe.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Cool. Let me know how you make out. - Nick at Pelican Parts

BigGunz

December 20, 2014

I noticed in a previous comment the question about the Valeo SMF alignment. I installed the same conversion kit and the flywheel has no alignment mark however, it will only fit ONE way. Once the

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

You may be able to reassemble the slave cylinder, I have in the past. A small amount of clutch fork play is normal. I se that on most makes. - Nick at Pelican Parts

BigGunz

December 18, 2014

Y'alls write-up is very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do this. I hate working on this car but REALLY enjoy driving it so that counteracts the pain in the neck that it is to work on.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

john

September 18, 2014

This worked out great for my 03' base model. Thank you. Only thing is I couldn't test drive it for more than a mile cause it over heats now. Any thoughts on what I messed up on? I replaced the

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

My guess, air is trapped in the cooling system. Try bleeding it again, I bet you will find the issue there. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Elementary Penguin

August 31, 2014

You list "lithium moly grease" to lubricate the shaft splines. I haven't been able to find "lithium moly grease" at least not in the same color as in the images. Can I use "white lithium grease"? Is

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

No, the clutch kit usually comes with the grease. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right grease. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Kyle

July 9, 2014

Any idea how similar this is to doing it on a 2008 cooper base? n12b16a with 6 speed. Thanks.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It's quite different. I would grab a repair manual. It will list the special tools and each step of the procedure. Give our parts specialists a call: 1-888-280-7799 They will help you find what you

Arie053

June 21, 2014

Thanks for the clear explanation, i do have one question.
I have Some difficulties getting my gear into 1st and reverse. I noticed That i have a lot of space in the upper Bush of the coupling

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I don't think so. The bushings are part of the cables. - Nick at Pelican Parts

matt

June 7, 2014

The LUK brand clutch purchased from you guys for an early build 04 MCS came with the plastic clutch alignment tool.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

OK, thanks for the info. - Nick at Pelican Parts

tony

June 6, 2014

Hi, followed the guide as well at using the Bentley manual but didn't read well enough about slave cylinder..big mistake..had to buy a vacumn pump to bleed. Decided to remove engine and transmission

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Nigel

May 27, 2014

Great article which I followed step by step; although the neighbours thought me a little strange for being under the car with my laptop nearby. May I add that you need to double check the alignment

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional info and feedback. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

replacement

May 27, 2014

Do you recommend anything special for clutch break-in? Is it required? Wondering how soon I can autocross in good conscience after replacing...

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

I would give it an easy 1000 miles before taking it racing. Especially a stock clutch. - Nick at Pelican Parts

mao7630

May 6, 2014

Great article. I followed your steps and just finished re-installing the transmission back to the place and re-fitting all the mounting bolts. However, the throwout arm fork doesn't rotate as used to

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If it doesn't feel right, my suggestion is to remove the transmission to be sure it is installed correctly. You don't want to have a failure once the vehicle is running again. - Nick at Pelican Parts

AviatorBimmer

February 23, 2014

Hey Pelican, quick question. If wrong gear oil is used on the manual tranny, can it cause damage to the transmission, such as buzzing and whining noise inside the tranny while driving the vehicle? My

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

The incorrect fluid can damage the transmission. I would install the correct fluid, see if the noise subsides, if not, ask your mechanic to inspect the issue.- Nick at Pelican Parts

mike

February 21, 2014

Great article in the process of my clutch replacement, i was wondering where i would go about finding the bmw water pump removal tool? or if there is a similar option i could use.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can help you find the right tool. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Lencho

January 2, 2014

Can a machine shop re-surface the OEM Dual-Mass Flywheel?
I was told it was very difficult to do. What is the cost to re-surface it?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

It can be done, the method is different from standard flywheels. You will have to contact a local machine shop for pricing. - Nick at Pelican Parts

patrick

November 20, 2013

I'm sorry to ask this but I order couple things from you guys I'm very please with all the parts for my mini 2007 mcs turbocharged and delivery time but I have a question related to the alignment

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

There factory clutch alignment tools here: https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/MINI/POR_MINI_PRJ025_pg2.htm They work the best. If you click back to page 1, there are standard model

Driven97

November 15, 2013

Just finishing up with mine, thanks for the great writeup. A few tips that would have helped me:
In Figure 25 there is a semi-rigid gray plastic hose disconnected that is not in the guide. It gets

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Andy UK

November 3, 2013

Great guide, I have a slightly different gearbox and engine to the one in the write up, but very easily transferable. Even got the wife to help line the transmission back up!! Thanks for the guide.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

These articles are based on US models. Glad it was still helpful. Thanks for the feedback. - Nick at Pelican Parts

DragonSpiker

September 16, 2013

Everything work great, but, when trying the car on, it seems that the release bearing got lose. Do we have to bring down the transmission again, is there any tricks to get the release bearing in

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Not really. There is no way to access it well enough to service it with the transmission installed. - Nick at Pelican Parts

DragonSpiker

August 26, 2013

Super Article, you're the man
thank you very much for sharing, all this info.
dragonspiker

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the feedback. Glad we could help. - Nick at Pelican Parts

JohnRMac

July 6, 2013

Great article. Should this apply to a Countryman R60 model? My car has the All4 option so I can imagine that disconnect will be additional

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

This tech article does not apply to your vehicle. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Ducdog

July 3, 2013

Thanks very much for the articles - been a big help. One comment though - I find your references to bolt sizes a bit confusing. It may be helpful to mention the actual bolt size M6, M10 etc and

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the additional information. We appreciate it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

blondie

June 26, 2013

Hey guys, 2003 mini base model 82k miles ~ clutch pedal went to the floor and can not get the car to move. Mechanics tell me it is the clutch. So working with a mechanic to repair. One of my

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

If replacing the salve cylinder, replace the master as well. Sounds like you have everything else covered. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jcain

May 21, 2013

Okay, my last comment didn't post to the correct page even though I was on the tech article about clutch slave cylinders.

Quirky software you got here.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks, got it. - Nick at Pelican Parts

jcain

May 21, 2013

Oh, by the way. Instead of the GM puller you can use a caulking gun. Most everyone has one or two around their house.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Not a bad idea. Only issue would be the risk of damaging the slave cylinder. It is made out of plastic and too much pressure on the fitting side could damage it. Using the puller allows you to pull

Aevar

March 10, 2013

Question. How should I align the flywheel in step 69 if using an aftermarket flywheelvaleo smf conversion?

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

A conversion kit should come with instruction. There is a good chance they made it similar to the MINI parts so the alignment is the same. You will have to check when you get the parts. - Nick at

Pam's car

February 13, 2013

Question. I had the clutch replaced on my car. I picked it up and now my very quiet car sound like an 18 wheeler driving down the road. I can't even hear the engine to shift gears! I'm being told

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Hard to say. I would have the shop look their work over and see if they can find how it failed shortly after the repair. - Nick at Pelican Parts

Mike D.

February 10, 2013

Wonderfull article. It's just a shame I found it after I've completed my clutch project. I, like Mark mentioned, did not have to remove the heat sheild or starter either. As a matter of fact no

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the kind words on the article. On some of the early cars there are some differences in the clutch replacement, so you may have to use a bit of trial and error to figure out what you need

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Mark

November 15, 2012

Thank you for the article. It was invaluable. I did find that it is not necessary to remove the starter, only the two mounting bolts.

Followup from the Pelican Staff:

Thanks for the tip. You can hang the starter of out the way when removing the trans. - Nick at Pelican Parts

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