The Clothing of Southeastern Native Americans of the mid-18th Century

With a specific focus on the Cherokee Indians, 1754-1762 Jason Melius June 30 2012 This document seeks to examine the clothing typically worn by Native American nations of the Southeastern portion of North America during the French and Indian War period. The focus will be on the material goods provided to the Cherokee through Crown and Colony gifts, trade, and in exchange for military service. In order to accomplish this goal, documents and artifacts from other regions of the continent will sometimes need to be examined in order to fill gaps in the historic record and further expand upon the materials and construction of specific garments. The garments herein discussed will include trade shirts, Native made shirts, breechcloths, leggings, matchcoats, and coats. It must be kept in mind that in the more than 250 years which has elapsed, few artifact examples survive. However, a great amount of documentary evidence is available for examination. Shirts During the period under examination, a transition was occurring in the nature of the materials employed in the construction of trade shirts. In the early 1750s, trade and gift lists show that white linen shirts dominated. The following is a 1753 dated excerpt from the Suffering Traders of the Ohio:
40 Plain Shirts @ 10/ 20.0.0 24 Ruffled Shirts @ 25/ 30.0.01

Plain white linen shirts were worn by both men and women very commonly. They were made in the typical European fashion.2 By 1755, a general fashion trend change can be noted in trade and gift lists: Check shirts begin to appear in growing quantities:
19 Doz. check Shirts 18 Doz. white Garlics Do3

By 1758, the year of the Forbes Expedition against Fort Duquesne, shirts made of checked material outnumber plain white shirts at a ratio approaching 5-to-1. Often times, these lists include only check shirts. But what constituted checked material in the 18th century?

Window pane checks are likely to have been employed far more common that gingham check patterns during this period. Evidence for this can be found in the numerous swatches which can be seen in books such as Florence Montgomerys Textiles in America as well as the linings of a handful of surviving Native manufactured bags of the period. These bags provide the most firm evidence as they were lined with material clearly provided through the 18 th century trade networks. Interestingly, all three bags feature a lining of very similar material with blue checks. A preference for darker materials can also be inferred by the following 1759 quote from the Georgia Indian Trader Thomas Rasberry: 2 ps. striped cotton Hollands at 14d. per yard. 2 ps ditto at 16d. per yd 2 ps ditto at 18d. per yd. 2 ps ditto at 20d. per yd NB let the above cotton Hollands be all narrow blue Stripes & the length way of the Cloth 4 ps. 7/8 manchester cotton Check at 13d. per Ell 4 ps ditto at 16d. per do. 4 ps ditto at 19d. per do. 4 ps. yard wd. ditto at 13d per do. 4 ps ditto at 16d per do. 4 ps ditto at 20d. per do. let none of the above Checks have any red or yellow in them 4 ps. 7/8 linnen Check at 91/2d. per yd4 Another variation of the trade shirt can be seen in white linen shirts with fine ruffles at the breast and wrists. These appear to have been most commonly worn by headmen. Numerous references survive which illustrate this, especially among gift lists where tribal leaders are provided with specific goods which the English felt fit their important station. The last type of shirt does not appear on trade lists as a readymade item. Rather, large quantities of linen (both checked and plain white) yardage were provided by Europeans which the Indians would make into shirts themselves. There are three images which survive from the 18th century which this author believes illustrate Indian made shirts. The earliest is found on the French commission given to Oconostota.5 The shirt worn by the Indian in this commission is constructed of white material (likely linen) and is cut very much like a European womans chemise of the 18 th century. There are a number of differences however. The shirt in the image is very short, reaching just past the hips. The sleeves are short and open and do not appear to include a drawstring of band to keep the shirt tight. Lastly, the wide neck opening appears to be somewhat ragged rather than a hemmed opening with a drawstring; another feature common to a womans chemise.

Two other images survive, one of a Stockbridge painted in 1778 and the other of a Shawnee from the 1790s. While the shirt worn by the Shawnee is blue, it is very similar to the shirt worn by the Stockbridge. Both have similar features to that in the French commission image. The most notable differences are a smaller neck opening and slightly longer sleeves. An item which deserves special note is printed textiles in relation to shirts. Fine, ruffled trade shirts were certainly common in the later portion of the 18th century, and on into the 19th. However, there seems to be little evidence of the use of printed materials in the construction of mens shirts in the Southeast during the period examined. In fact, as of this writing, there are no known references to shirts, readymade, for the Native market in the Southeast until the later 1760s. This is not to say that printed fabrics were not available or not traded. Printed textiles were traded in smaller quantities, and were likely used by Native women for jackets and the like.6 However caution should be used while examining trade documents: Because printed fabric today might be called calico, does not ensure that it carried the same definition in the 18th century. In fact, the name Calico was a general term used to describe any cotton fabric from Calicut and not just printed fabrics: Callicoe one of the general names for the cotton-cloths of India; being a particular kind of cotton, brought from Calicut, and other places, both white and coloured; which was formerly much worn in England for the garment of women and children; but now prohibited to be worn, printed or coloured, otherwise than by needlework, upon account of its prejudicing the woolen and linen manufacturers of Great Britain and Ireland.7 Combining all of this evidence, a clear pattern can be drawn. The most common shirts worn by Cherokee warriors during the period between 1755 and 1762 would have been cut in the typical European fashion and of window pane checked linen. This style shirt was seen at an almost 5 to 1 ration to plain white linen shirts. Ruffled white linen shirts were designated for headmen, and those mostly likely were reserved for special occasions where fancy dress was required. Woolen Goods Woolen goods were provided to the Indian populations of the Southeastern region in great quantities. Often, wools were traded in raw yardage, but could also be seen in a wide array of manufactured goods. Wool was used for leggings, breechcloths, matchcoats, trade coats and even greatcoats. The different types of wool available often served rather specific purposes. The most common types seen on trade lists are strouds, half-thicks, and duffels. Each was available in a variety of colors, but blue appears to have dominated in the Southeast.

Strouds were wools which were manufactured in Gloucestershire, England. Stroud was known for its water quality, which was considered superior for dying reds and blacks in the 18th century. Stroud wools often included a saved list; a stripe along the selvedge edge which was left undyed. The stripes could be narrow, wide, double, single, on, or off of the edge. Some strouds had black stripes as well.8 It all depended on the needs of the customer. Thomas Rasberrys papers include drawings of specific designs preferred by his Native customers in his Augusta, GA store.9 Half-thicks, and duffels (also called trucking cloth or just trucking) were fairly similar. Both wools were a relatively heavy fabric often made specifically for the Indian trade. Unlike strouds, these wools do not appear to have ever received selvedge edge treatment. Where raw quantities of fabrics were purchased by merchants involved in the Indian trade, blue was the dominant color across the board. It is seen in the account books of people such as Henry Laurens and Thomas Rasberry in quantities exceeding 20 yards of blue to other colors. On at least one occasion, the blue cloth was measured by the ton rather than by the yard, or piece (average length of a piece ranges from 18 29 yards depending on the manufacturer and buyers agreement). Leggings The leggings worn by Cherokee men during this period were constructed in the sideseam fashion which can be considered typical for the entire Eastern Woodlands region for the majority of the 18th century. There are a number of pairs which survive in various collections around the world. Unfortunately none are known to have been Cherokee. However, all the surviving examples maintain the same general characteristics. All have a seam which runs up the outside of the leg, creating a closely fitted tube for the leg. A generous seam allowance of about 4 inches remained and served as a flap. Sometimes the flap was decorated with silk ribbon and/or bead designs. The historical record indicates that it was likely most often left plain, unless they were intended to be used for an important occasion. The top of the legging had a piece of fabric sewn to it, which would be tied to the belt which supported the breechcloth and served to keep the leggings from falling down. Rarely, did the leggings reach much farther than a hands breathe above the top of the knee. By the period under examination, leather leggings appear to have been quickly losing favor to leggings made of wool. When the Cherokee were joining the Forbes Campaign against Fort Duquesne in 1758, they could expect to receive at least 2 pair of blue wool leggings. The first, he got just for showing up, the other before he headed home. The British leadership also ensured that more leggings would be available any time that a warrior requested them.10 Leggings of blue stroud or blue half-thicks dominate the documents relating to the Southeast.

Center seam leggings were not seen until the very end of the 18 th century. The cause of the development of this style of legging is not fully understood. However, it is important to note that there is absolutely no documentary evidence for their use until the period long after the American Revolution. Breechcloths Breechcloths were the dominant garment of the Eastern Woodlands. The clout was a simple garment, constructed simply of a length of wool, approximately 10 inches wide, draped over a belt in the front and the back of the wearers waist. Like leggings, blue wools dominated the middle of the 18th century. Through period artwork, red was commonly seen for breechclouts as well, but still second to blue. Matchcoats The last of the largely blue wool garments to discuss is the matchcoat. A matchcoat was a length of wool, worn draped over a shoulder, similarly to a cloak. In the 18 th century, it was said by more than one observer that a warrior always had this garment with him, no matter how hot it became. Matchcoats typically measured between 60 inches by 60 inches to 60 inches by two yards. Blue strouds and duffels appear to be the most common materials employed. As often as they were undecorated, matchcoats could also be heavily decorated with upwards of 8 horizontal rows of wide silk ribbon. Decorated matchcoats often appear to have been reserved for headmen, but not always. Coats and Greatcoats European style wool coats were popular trade items for winter wear to all of the Native nations of the Southeastern colonies. The most frequent color appears to have been red, though specific colors were not always listed. Unfortunately, no intact examples are known to survive. Ideas as to their construction can be gleamed from a number of sources. Amhersts papers and others indicate that these coats were likely rather simple affairs, often called jackets. Coats in the 18th century, when referred to jackets, were typically shorter in the body and lacked the full skirting commonly seen in the period. They likely had simple, large cuffs, and lacked decorative trimming. It is possible that they were not lined as well. Coats for headmen were often decorated with metallic braid. Based on the remnants of a fancy trade coat recovered from Conestoga in Pennsylvania, the metallic braid was applied to all of the bodys seams, edges and around the buttons and button holes. This somewhat

resembled British military coats. Others may have been cut in more of a military fashion, with blue lapels and cuffs on red bodies. When coats were given to headmen, they were most commonly part of a suit of clothing. A suit often consisted of a laced coat, laced waistcoat, breeches and a laced hat with ostrich feathers. It is important to note that there has, thus far, been no record found of waistcoats being made available on their own as gifts or for trade. It is equally important that no descriptions of Indians wearing waistcoats without an accompanying coat survive. Therefore, it is highly likely that this practice was never employed by Cherokee Indians during the period examined by this work. People who research Native American material culture are largely familiar with the idea of Indians adopting the French-Canadian capote to winter wear. This garment is known to have been adopted by Europeans in the English sphere of influence as well. However, there is little evidence to support the wear of capotes by Southeastern Native peoples. Instead of capotes, greatcoats are frequently seen in trade and gift lists from the as early as the 1710s through the end of the 18th century in the Southeast. Greatcoats were so common in the region that one Native, who was expressing the difficulties of obtaining trade goods, remarked that there was not a great Coat in the Town.11 As with the lack of documentation for the wear of waistcoats as a solitary garment, there is a similar lack of evidence for the wearing of trophy coats. Trophy coats would be coats taken from slain enemies. This is a practice made popular by modern artists and living historians which has little basis in historical fact. Coats obtained in trade were the most common type of coat which would have been found on the bodies of Cherokee men in the middle of the 18th century. Conclusions Stylistically, Cherokee Indian men in the middle of the 18th century were very much dressing as the vast majority of the other peoples of the Eastern Woodlands region. The clothing was somewhat standardized to consist of a linen shirt, wool breechcloth, wool leggings and a wool matchcoat. Often a coat obtained through trade or as a gift would be used in the cooler months of the year. As demonstrated in this paper, there was a theme common to the Cherokee and other Southeastern peoples which set them apart from their northern neighbors. Rather than plain white shirts, the Southeastern nations preferred checked materials. Blue, rather than red, was the most common color of wool seen traded in the region. Likewise, coats and greatcoats were the garments of choice when extra layers were needed.

The above should serve as a guide to those who seek to construct a Southeastern Native portrayal for reenacting or living history purposes. Rather than the artwork of modern artists or other reenactors, people seeking to embark or improve their impressions are encouraged to seek out and examine the primary source materials listed herein. They are but the tip of the iceberg. There are a vast amount of artifacts, documents and pieces of artwork available.

Company Ohio and Kenneth P. Bailey, The Ohio Company Papers, 1753-1817, Being Primarily Papers of The "Suffering Traders" Of Pennsylvania (Arcata, Calif.: 1947), 39. 2 Construction details of typical European shirts are beyond the scope of this paper. However, patterns and instructions can be provided by contacting the author. 3 Coleman, K., Ready, M., The Colonial records of the state of Georgia. Vol.27, Original papers of Governor John Reynolds, 1754-1756. ( Athens: University of Georgia Press: 1976): 30-31 4 Lilla M. Hawes, "The Letter Book of Thomas Rasberry, 1758-1761. Part Iii," The Georgia Historical Quarterly 41, no. 1 (1957): 54. 5 Many believe this to be a portrait of Oconostota, but no firm documentary evidence survives to back this claim. 6 See Edith Mays, Amherst Papers, 1756-1763 : The Southern Sector : Dispatches from South Carolina, Virginia, and His Majesty's Superintendent of Indian Affairs (Westminster, Md: Heritage Books, 2006), 74-76. 7 Florence M. Montgomery, Textiles in America, 1650-1870 : A Dictionary Based on Original Documents, Prints and Paintings, Commercial Records, American Merchant's Papers, Shopkeepers' Advertisements, and Pattern Books with Original Swatches of Cloth (London: Norton, 2007), 184. 8 Ibid., 353. 9 Hawes: 66. 10 Mays, 75-76. 11 Newton Dennison Mereness and America National Society of the Colonial Dames of, Travels in the American Colonies (New York: Macmillan Co., 1916), 533.