1960s in Fashion
1960s in Fashion
1960s in Fashion
Clothing styles have always mirrored the prevailing attitudes of the times and this is certainly
true of fashion in the 1960s. The decade was marked by sweeping social change and the
domination of youth culture - baby boomers were growing up and demanded their own
fashion style.
Designers responded with a much more liberal, daring approach to fashion, boasting colourful
fabrics and bold designs.
The 1960s saw fashion reject the conventions and niceties of previous eras. Clothing broke
with social traditions that dictated what could be worn when and by whom. In the past, attire
had been divided in to 'formal' and 'casual' wear, and distinct separations were made between
the styles of clothing worn by men and women. The 1960s, however, saw the emergence of
unisex clothing such as denim jeans, which could be worn by both sexes.
Mod, short for 'modern', refers to a youth lifestyle that emerged from London during the
1960s, and quickly spread to America, Europe and Australia. Centred around London's
thriving pop music, art and fashion scene, the mod lifestyle focused on innovation and the
'new'.
Mod fashion was slim fitting and featured bold geometric shapes. Colour was also a key
concern - the conservative greys, browns and pastels of the 1950s were replaced by bright,
wild hues. In contrast to fashion trends of the past, these garments were mass-produced and
affordable.
The 1960s saw the appearance of the mini-skirt. Up until that time, skirts and dresses in
Australia finished sensibly at the knee. New soaring hemlines created huge controversy when
they first appeared, exposing centimetres of thigh never before seen in public.
At the Melbourne Cup in 1965, English model Jean Shrimpton created controversy by
wearing a synthetic white shift dress with a hem high above her knees. She did not wear
stockings, gloves or a hat. Shrimpton's outfit was considered scandalous, and made
headlines around the world. By the end of the decade, however, shift dresses and mini-skirts
had become widely accepted.
See Image 1
Mini-skirts represent more than just a fashion landmark of the decade - they have become an
icon of the general culture of rebellion that characterised the 1960s. Young people were
rejecting the social standards of the past and so too was their fashion. Many devotees of the
feminist movement of the 1960s also saw the mini-skirt as a claim to the right of women to
proudly display their bodies as they wished.
Throughout the 1960s, a number of famous people sported distinct fashion styles that were
copied all over the world.
British teenage supermodel Leslie Hornby, also known as Twiggy due to her stick-thin figure,
was a fashion idol to young girls everywhere. Her short, boyish haircut and leggy, waif-like
frame graced the covers of every major fashion magazine.
While 1960s fashion was largely youth-driven, fashion icons also dictated the style of older
women. Throughout her career, movie star Audrey Hepburn wore simple, flat shoes, three-
quarter length pants, and plain black shift dresses. Her clothing style and her beehive hairdo,
would be copied by millions of women worldwide.
See Image 2
Jacqueline Kennedy, wife of US President John F. Kennedy, became widely known for her
beauty, grace and elegant style of dress. Her many public appearances popularised pearl
necklaces, the pillbox hat (a small hat with a flat top and straight sides) and simple, big-
buttoned suits.
Towards the end of the 1960s, the hippie movement had arrived in Australia. Many young
people had become dissatisfied with the prevailing mainstream social values, considering
them to be shallow and materialistic. Others strongly opposed Australian involvement in the
Vietnam War. Whatever their motivation, many young people began embracing the values of
peace, love and freedom and sought an alternative way of life.
Many people embraced communal living and a nomadic lifestyle, explored Eastern religions,
experimented with drugs and adopted a rebellious style of dress.
Clothing styles and fabrics were inspired by non-Western cultures, such as Indian and
African. Natural fabrics and tie-dyed and paisley prints were also popular. Many people
handcrafted their own clothes and accessories and personal items were often decorated with
beads and fringes. Bare feet or leather sandals were typical hippie fashion and flowers and
peace signs became symbols of the movement.
See Image 3
Both men and women let their hair grow long and men commonly grew facial hair.
The hippie movement also influenced other clothing styles. Denim jeans, which had remained
a staple wardrobe item for many young people throughout the decade, were inspired by
hippie fashion. New styles of denim jeans emerged, such as the bell-bottomed, tie-dyed,
marbled and painted jeans.
1960s fashion was influenced by the excitement surrounding space exploration and the first
moon landing. Innovative synthetic materials like polyester, plastic, PVC and vinyl enjoyed
huge popularity throughout the decade.
New blended fabrics were also developed, mixing man-made fibres with natural materials like
cotton and wool. Prompted by the animal rights movement, new fabric technology also
produced the first artificial fur and leather fabrics.
Improved fabrics and mass production techniques meant that clothes could be produced
much faster and more cheaply than ever before. This, coupled with quickly changing teen
fashion fads, meant that clothes were also discarded more quickly than before.
1960's Fashion
The basic shape and design of 1960’s fashion was simple, clean-cut and
young. Synthetic fabrics became widely used during this period. Typically A-
lines or shift dresses were worn between high thigh and the knee. Hats
became somewhat obsolete, only being used for special occasions. 1960’s
fashion saw a transition from stilettos and pointed toe shoes to a lower kitten
heel and chisel shaped toes. By 1965, flat boots became very popular with
short dresses and eventually they rose up the leg and reached the knee.
Two influential designers of 1960s fashion were Emilio Pucci and Paco
Rabanne. Emilio Pucci’s sportswear designs and prints were inspired by Op
art and psychedelia and his clothing became part of a movement to liberate
the female form and is today synonymous with 1960s fashion. Paco Rabanne
produced very modern designs, using aluminum, Rhodoid and pieces of scrap
metal. As well as being experimental, his clothes were in line with what the
modern adventurous women of 1960s fashion wanted to wear.
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Other Chapters
1. Final Exam
The Beatles exerted an enormous influence on young men's fashions and hairstyles in
the 1960s
Mary Quant invented the mini-skirt,and Jackie Kennedy produced the french
manicure with false eyelashes. pillbox hat [1], which became extremely popular
throughout the 1960s. Blues, greens, and shimmery eye shadows were popular; false
eyelashes were used, and hairstyles were a variety of lengths and styles.[2] While
focusing on colours and tones, accessories were less of an importance during the
sixties. People were dressing in psychedelic prints, highlighter colours, and
mismatched patterns.[3] The hippie movement late in the decade also exerted a strong
influence on ladies' clothing styles, including bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye, and batik
fabrics, as well as paisley prints.
Colleen Corby, a teenaged supermodel of the mid-1960s
In the early to mid-1960s, the London Modernists known as the Mods were shaping
and defining popular fashion for young British men while the trends for both sexes
changed more frequently than ever before in the history of fashion and would
continue to do so throughout the decade. [4]
Designers were producing clothing more suitable for young adults which lead to an
increase in interests and sales.[5]
Contents
[hide]
• 10 External links
Following World War II and its baby booming era, 1960s fashion became popular and
fit for the millions of teenagers living their adolescence[6]. Designers were producing
clothing more attractable for skinny, young adults leading to rise in interests and
sales[7]. Teenagers had little responsibility and were dropping out of school early to
begin working [8]. While living in the moment, people were spending versus saving
and enjoying the changes the 60s were bringing.
[edit] Textiles
As the 60s introduced new versions of synthetic fibers, the use of natural fibers such
as wool was contracting. Spandex and Nylon were used towards the production of
underwear, swimwear, bras, and sportswear. [9] Affecting even the stock market and
sales, the production of plants supplying synthetic fibers rose globally. As the first
man landed on the moon, textiles celebrated modernity, space age silver became a
new-age trend. [10]
The 1960s represented a change in which Western women were free to dress in any
style they chose and were accepted in society. Just as high fashion was transformed to
reflect a new, adventurous, unique generation; fashion in the 1960’s also illustrated
the natural beauty behind different cultures. [11] The acceptance of this change in
fashion shows the expression of female identity through even allowing to advertise
uni-sex dressing amongst women. [12] By interchanging slacks and mini skirts from
day to day, society indirectly freed sexual restraints on women as well as establishing
equality between men, women, and young people.
As the suits drifted away from pale, toned shades, menswear was now bright and
flamboyant. It included frills and cravats, wide ties and trouser straps, leather boots
and even collarless jackets. Ties were worn even five inches wide, with crazy prints,
stripes and patterns. Casual dress consisted of plaid button down shirts with
comfortable slacks. [13]
Family photo taken in 1965. Sleeveless shifts for women were popular
The Mods were a British fashion phenomenon in the mid-1960s with their anoraks,
tailored Italian suits, and scooters
In 1964, French designer Andre Courreges introduced the "space look", with trouser
suits, white boots, goggles, and box-shaped dresses whose skirts soared three inches
above the knee. These were mainly designed in fluorescent colours and shiny fabrics
such as PVC and sequins.[15]
The leaders of mid 1960s style were the British. The Mods, short for Modernists,
were characterized by their choice of style different from the 1950s and revealed new
fads that would be immitated by many young people. As a level of the middle social
class known as the Mods, controlled the ins and outs of fashion in London, 1960’s
fashion set the mode for the rest of the century as it became marketed mainly to
youth. Modernists formed their own way of life creating television shows and
magazines that focused directly on the lifestyles of Mods. [16] British rock bands such
as The Who, The Small Faces, and The Kinks emrged from the Mods subculture. The
Mods were known for the Modern Jazz they listened to as they showed their new
styles off at local cafes. They worked at the lower end of the work force, usually nine
to five jobs leaving time for clothes, music, and clubbing. [17] It was not until 1964
when the Modernists were truly recognized by the public that women really were
accepted in the group. Girls had short, clean haircuts and often dressed in similar
styles to the male Mods. [18] The Mods' lifestyle and musical tastes were the exact
opposite of their rival group known as the Rockers. The rockers liked 1950s rock-and
roll, wore black leather jackets, greased, pompadour hairstyles, and rode motorbikes.
The look of the Mods was classy; they mimicked the clothing and hairstyles of high
fashion designers in France and Italy; opting for tailored suits, which were topped by
anoraks that became their trademark. They rode on scooters, usually Vespas or
Lambrettas. The Mods dress style was often called the City Gent look. Shirts were
slim, with a necessary button down collar accompanied by slim fitted pants. [19] Levi’s
were the only type of jeans worn by Modernists. Flared trousers and bellbottoms led
the way to the hippie stage introduced in the 1960s. Variations of polyester were worn
along with acrylics.[20]
Carnaby Street and Chelsea's Kings Road were virtual fashion parades. In 1966, the
space age was gradually replaced by the Edwardian, with the men wearing double-
breasted suits of crushed velvet or striped patterns, brocade waistcoats, shirts with
frilled collars, and their hair worn below the collar bone. Rolling Stones guitarist
Brian Jones epitomised this "dandified" look. Women were inspired by the top models
of the day which included Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Colleen Corby, Penelope Tree,
and Veruschka. Velvet mini dresses with lace-collars and matching cuffs, wide tent
dresses and culottes had pushed aside the geometric shift. False eyelashes were in
vogue, as was pale lipstick. Hemlines kept rising, and by 1968 they had reached well
above mid-thigh. These were known as "micro-minis". This was when the "angel
dress" made its appearance on the fashion scene. A micro-mini dress with a flared
skirt and long, wide trumpet sleeves, it was usually worn with patterned tights, and
was often made of crocheted lace, velvet, chiffon or sometimes cotton with a
psychedelic print such as those designed by Emilio Pucci. The cowled-neck "monk
dress" was another religion-inspired alternative; the cowl could be pulled up to be
worn over the head.[21] For evening wear, skimpy chiffon baby-doll dresses with
spaghetti-straps were the mode as well as the "cocktail dress", which was a close-
fitting sheath, usually covered in lace with matching long sleeves.[22]Feather boas were
occasionally worn.
In 1964, Bell-bottomed trousers were a new alternative to the capris of the early
1960s. They were usually worn with chiffon blouses, polo-necked ribbed sweaters or
tops that bared the midriff.
The look of corsets, seemed tights, and skirts covering the knees had been abolished.
The idea of buying urbanized clothing, which could be worn with separate pieces, was
intriguing to women of this era in comparison to previously only buying specific
outfits for certain occasions[23].
For daytime outerwear, short plastic raincoats, colourful swing coats and dyed fake-
furs were popular for young women. In 1967, the Nehru jacket arrived on the fashion
scene, and was worn by both sexes. Suits were very diverse in color but were for the
first time ever, fitted and very sliming. Waistlines for women were left unmarked and
hemlines were getting shorter and shorter.
French actress Brigitte Bardot wearing a transparent top and a feather boa, 1968
Footwear for women included low-heeled sandals and kitten-heeled pumps, as well as
the trendy white go-go boots. Shoes, boots, and handbags were often made of patent
leather or vinyl. The Beatles wore elastic-sided boots similar to Winkle-pickers with
pointed toes and Cuban heels. These were known as "Beatle boots" and were widely
copied by young men in Britain.
German fashion model in 1966 wearing a wool suit trimmed with fur, and a matching
fur hat
Fringed buck-skin vests, flowing caftans, Mexican peasant blouses, gypsy-style skirts,
scarves, and bangles were also worn by teenage girls and young women. Indian prints,
batik and paisley were the fabrics preferred. For more conservative women, there
were the "lounging" or "hostess" pyjamas. These consisted of a tunic top over floor-
length culottes, and were usually made of polyester or chiffon.
Another popular look for women and girls which lasted well into the early 1970s was
the suede mini-skirt worn with a French polo-neck top[24], square-toed boots, and
Newsboy cap or beret. Long maxi coats, often belted and lined in sheepskin, appeared
at the close of the decade.[25]Animal prints were also popular for women in the autumn
and winter of 1969. Women's shirts often had transparent sleeves. Pshycydellic prints,
hemp and the look of “Woodstock” came about in this generation. [26]
John Lennon, with long, unkempt hair and a beard, 1969. Photo courtesy of Roy
Kerwood
[edit] Hairstyles
Head coverings changed dramatically towards the end of the decade as men's hats
went out of style, replaced by the bandanna, if anything at all. As men let their hair
grow long, the Afro became the hairstyle of choice for African Americans. Mop-top
hairstyles were most popular for white and Hispanic men, beginning as a short version
around 1963 through 1964, developing into a longer style worn during 1965-66,
eventually evolving into an unkempt hippie version worn during the 1967-69 period
which continued in the early 1970s. Facial hair, evolving in its extremity from simply
having longer sideburns, to mustaches and goatees, to full-grown beards became
popular with young men from 1966 onwards. Women's hair styles ranged from
beehive hairdos in the early part of the decade to the very short styles popularized by
Twiggy just five years later to a very long straight style as popularized by the hippies
in the late 1960s. Between these extremes, the chin-length contour cut and the
pageboy were also popular. The pillbox hat was fashionable, due almost entirely to
the influence of Jacqueline Kennedy, who was a style-setter throughout the decade.
Actress Jane Fonda with Roger Vadim in 1969. She is wearing the Newsboy cap
which was in vogue at the end of the decade
Colourful headbands, bell-bottoms, and bare feet were part of the hippie look which
was popular in 1969
The late 1960 produced a style categorized of people whom promoted sexual
liberation and favored a type of politics reflecting “peace, love and freedom”. [27]
Ponchos, mocassins, love beads, peace signs, medallion necklaces, chain belts, polka
dot-printed fabrics, and long, puffed "bubble" sleeves were additional trends in the
late 1960s.
New materials other than cloth (such as polyester and PVC) started to become more
popular as well.
A selection of
images representing
the fashion trends of First Lady Jacqueline
the 1960s: Singer and actress Kennedy wearing a
Barbra Streisand in strapless pink evening
1962 wearing a top German fashion gown and elbow-
with a crew-neck. models, 1962. length white gloves.
Her hair is teased at She was a fashion
the crown. icon in the early
1960s
American girl
Actress Tina Louise wearing a mini skirt Biba's in Kensington,
in 1964. Her hair is and patterned tights, London, was one of
Young woman in
styled into thick, 1966. the trendiest shops in
Florida, 1965.
rolled curls piled up the 1960s.
on her head.
Family photograph
taken in Los Lars Jacob wears the
Woman at a Angeles, California, popular "dandified"
Young woman
Singapore zoo, 1967. 1968. The man is
wears her hair in a
Note her Pucci-style wearing a medallion male fashions.
pageboy flip, 1967.
print dress. necklace.
Singer Maria
Muldaur in 1969,
Boy with a mop top wearing a gypsy-
hair cut, 1969. style kerchief and
hoop earrings.
• Oleg Cassini
• Andre Courreges
• Lauren Hutton
• Veruschka
• Jean Shrimpton
• Penelope Tree
• Twiggy
• Celia Hammond
• Mod (lifestyle)
[edit] References
1. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
2. ^ Rich, Candace. "Makeup." Fifties and Sixties Site. 1996. 8 Apr. 2009
<http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/sixties-fashion-w1.htm>.
3. ^ Vintage Fashion Newsreels 1960s. Dir. Vidcat1. You Tube. 13 Feb. 2007. 27 Mar.
2009 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PP_MmvNxUSI
4. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
5. ^ Goodwin, Susan, and Becky Bradley. "American Cultural History: 1960-1969."
Kingwood College Library. June 2008. Lone Star College. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://kclibrary.lonestar.edu/decade60.html>.
6. ^ Goodwin, Susan, and Becky Bradley. "American Cultural History: 1960-1969."
Kingwood College Library. June 2008. Lone Star College. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://kclibrary.lonestar.edu/decade60.html>.
7. ^ "The 1960's." The People's History. 2009. 30 Mar. 2009
<http://www.thepeoplehistory.com/60sclothes.html>.
8. ^ Orzada, Belinda T. "Fashion Trends and Cultural Influences 1960-present."
Twentieth Century Design: Ethnic Influences. 7 Oct. 1998. University of Delaware.
10 Apr. 2009 <http://udel.edu/~orzada/trends-90.htm>.
9. ^ Orzada, Belinda T. "Fashion Trends and Cultural Influences 1960-present."
Twentieth Century Design: Ethnic Influences. 7 Oct. 1998. University of Delaware.
10 Apr. 2009 <http://udel.edu/~orzada/trends-90.htm>.
10. ^ "History of 1960s Fashion and Textiles." V&A. Victoria and Albert Museum. 27
Feb. 2009 <www.vam.ac.uk>.
11. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
12. ^ Goodwin, Susan, and Becky Bradley. "American Cultural History: 1960-1969."
Kingwood College Library. June 2008. Lone Star College. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://kclibrary.lonestar.edu/decade60.html>.
13. ^ Marshall, Peter. "Peacock Revolution: Informal Counterculture." Black Tie Guide.
2009. 27 Feb. 2009 <www.blacktieguide.com>.
14. ^ PaperpastYearbook,www.paperpast.com/html/1960 _fashion.html
15. ^ Fashion From Ancient Egypt To The Present Day, by Mila Contini, page317
16. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
17. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
18. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
19. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
20. ^ Braggs, Steve, and Diane Harris. "60s Mods." RetroWOW. 1 Mar. 2009
<http://www.retrowow.co.uk/retro_style/60s/60s_mods.html>.
21. ^ Paperpast Yearbook, www.paperpast.com/html/1960_fashion.html
22. ^ Contini, page 317
23. ^ Orzada, Belinda T. "Fashion Trends and Cultural Influences 1960-present."
Twentieth Century Design: Ethnic Influences. 7 Oct. 1998. University of Delaware.
10 Apr. 2009 <http://udel.edu/~orzada/trends-90.htm>.
24. ^ Paperpast Yearbook, www.paperpast.com/html/1960_fashion.html
25. ^ Paperpast Yearbook,www.paperpast.com./html/1960_fashion.html
26. ^ "The 1960's Hippies." Ariki Art Online Gallery. Ed. John Corney. 2008. 8 Apr. 2009
<http://www.arikiart.com/Fashion/hippies-1960s.htm>.
27. ^ "The 1960's Hippies." Ariki Art Online Gallery. Ed. John Corney. 2008. 8 Apr. 2009
<http://www.arikiart.com/Fashion/hippies-1960s.htm>.
1. Fashion From Egypt To The Present Day, by Mila Contini Crescent Books
New York
1960s Talent
Talent was the prerequisite to success in the 1960s. For the first time ever in
any fashion era, the young became the leaders of fashion. They led with new
and radically innovative fashion styles, with little girl woman androgynous
looks for women that swept away the sophisticated sweater girls of the early
sixties. The picture of Twiggy in the header defines her as the epitome of a
sixties baby doll woman.
In the early sixties, pleated skirts set on a hip yoke basque were worn with
short sleeved over blouses which were cut not unlike the shell tops of today.
Straight skirts had front and back inverted pleats called kick pleats and were
ideal for doing the twist dance craze as they allowed the knee to move freely.
Straight sweater dresses in lambswool or the synthetic acrylic variety called
Orlon were worn belted with waists nipped in became fashionable.
Pencil skirts were still worn with sweaters or even back to front cardigans that
had been pressed super flat. Before the days of tumble driers many women
lay their washed rung out knitwear in paper tissue and then brown paper.
They put it to dry under a carpet for two days. When it was removed from the
tissue, the footsteps that had pounded over the knit gave it a flat dry cleaned
as new appearance. Laundering of delicates could still be a problem, but
everything changed when mass produced synthetic garments arrived.
Quant found London girls seeking newness only too willing to try her new
daring short mini skirt. The fashion trend took off because it was so different
and to wear it well you had to be youthful to get away with an outfit that was
so controversial particularly among adults. The Quant style was soon known
as the Chelsea Look. You are reading an original 'The 1960s Mini Skirt'
fashion article by Pauline Weston Thomas at www.fashion-era.com ©
Typical of the era the opening lines of the show were 'that was the week that
was, it's over let it go...'
It was typical of the 1960's attitude of let's get on with the future, making it a
very fast moving decade in fashion, lifestyles, innovations and morals. The
fashion mini skirt became one of the icons that symbolized this era. You are
reading an original 'The 1960s Mini Skirt' fashion article by Pauline Weston
Thomas at www.fashion-era.com ©
Death of Stockings
What made the mini really acceptable was the introduction of pantyhose
known mostly today as tights. It was hard to wear a mini dress with
stockings and feel confident, but with tights there was protection from the
elements and no unsightly glimpse of stocking tops. Stockings died in the
mid 1960s and were only revived as leg wear in the 1990s or else kept for
the bedroom.
Pantyhose
When tights were first introduced in the 1960s it liberated women from
girdles, roll-ons and suspender belts. It's difficult to know which came first
the skirt or the tights, but the introduction of seamless stockings had started
the tights revolution. What is certain it is unlikely the one could have existed
without the other as no groomed young lady ever went out bare legged then.
A pair of Wolsey tights cost about £1 in 1965 and with careful daily washing
they could be made to last a month. Obviously planned obsolescence has
been introduced since then for all brands, as most of us now find it difficult to
make them last for more than a day or two's wear.
Tights in the late 60s were often patterned with arrangements of diamonds or
other motifs and a favourite colour of the era was a golden brown called
American Tan. Fishnet tights were also popular briefly. Lurex glitter tights in
gold or silver were a hit for the Christmas period.
1960s Footwear
Lower kitten heels were a dainty alternative to stilettos Pointed toes gave
way to chisel shaped toes in 1961 and to an almond toe in 1963.
Flat boots also became popular with very short dresses in 1965 and
eventually they rose up the leg and reached the knee. A cult for Dr. Scholl
clog sandals worn in offices and outdoors was all the rage in the mid to late
sixties in the same way that Birkenstocks were popular in the 1990s.
All clothes were narrow shouldered and cut in at the armholes to properly
reveal the arm and its shoulder joint. Even short sleeve versions were set
well into the armscye. Left - Dresses of 1967 with cutaway armholes
Baby doll dresses of 1966 were full and flared into tent shapes mostly with
cutaway armholes or/and a halter neck. They were made of transparent
tulles, lace or chiffons plain or tree bark mounted over a matching lining or
could be made of crinkled cotton crepe fabrics.
Lace of all types from Broderie Anglaise to guipure to crochet effects over
coloured linings or flesh toned linings were often seen.
Black polo neck sweaters made popular by the Beatles cover album were
often worn under check pinafore dresses. The dresses were usually solid
colours of red or purple wool material. Checks of black and white such as dog
or hound's-tooth or Prince of Wales check. Black and white was a sixties
combination and was used in op art dresses and block pieced dresses worked
in Mondrian style. Black patent accessories complimented all these
combinations.
One of the easiest ways to get the sixties look was to wear short little
coloured gloves with a hole cut out to reveal the back of the hand. The
gloves were similar in appearance to golf gloves of today. With the gloves
coloured plastic beaded raffia knit bags and plastic coloured bangles and
chandelier earrings made of large sequin discs were all high fashion
accessories that lasted about 5 years.
All of these trend setting outfits and accessories could easily be obtained from
Wallis, Richards, Etams or Chelsea Girl shops. You are reading an original
'The 1960s Mini Skirt' fashion article by Pauline Weston Thomas at
www.fashion-era.com ©
Outdoor Clothes
Outdoor looks were achieved by using fabrics like wool, Terylene or cotton
gabardine, corduroy, leather, suede or mock suede fabrics made up as car
coats. Also cheaper alternatives such as padded nylon diamond quilted
anoraks or cotton anoraks with toggles and Austrian peasant embroidered
braids were quite common.
Trousers
The mini dominated fashion and women sometimes needed a practical
alternative smarter than jeans that could be worn day or evening. Quite
formal trousers worn with a tunic, shirt, skinny rib or matching suit jacket
were acceptable in certain work situations and liked as alternative evening
wear when made from slinkier materials.
Trousers were made from Courtelle jersey, cotton velvet, silky or bulked
textured Crimplenes, lace with satin, and Pucci style printed Tricel. Hipster
versions were popular and very flared versions developed by the late sixties,
with every style ultimately translating into denim jeans. Its worth noting that
the hipsters of the 60s were not quite as low cut along the pelvic line as low
rise jeans of 2005.
Du Pont and ICI were the giants of synthetic manufacture producing a wide
range of fabrics under trade names relating to Polyamide, Polyesters,
Polyurethanes, Polyolefins, and Polyacrylonitriles the polyvinyl derivative. All
the fibre bases could be used as bulked or fine yarns dependant on fibre
extrusion method and final finishing. The name often related to the country
or plant where the fibre was produced for example Enkalon was Irish made
nylon whereas Crylor, an acrylic yarn was made in France.
All these man made synthetic fibres began to be used in bras, underwear,
swimwear and sportswear. Lycra eventually found its way into fabric mixes to
aid crease recovery, wearing ease, fit and stretch. Polyvinyl derivatives
produce polyacrylonitriles and this includes Orlon, Acrylic, Crylor, Courtelle
and Creslan. Modified acrylics such as Dynel and Teklan were first used to
make fake furs and fake hair for wigs in the sixties. You are reading an
original 'The 1960s Mini Skirt' fashion article by Pauline Weston Thomas at
www.fashion-era.com
Bell-Bottom Trousers
The knee breaches and trousers worn by men and boys in the
18th century were normally tight and form fitting. The long
trousers that men began to wear in the early 19th century were
also normally long rather tight. At about the same time that Figure 1.--.
men began to wear long trousers, bell-bottom rtousers also
appeared. And they first appeared at sea. I'm not yet sure when and where they first
appeared an who invented them. They were first adopted by the American Navy. We
know they were in use by the 1810s, but they may have first appeared somewhat
earlier. The American bell-bottoms had 13 buttons. We are not positive just what the
purpose of flared trousers at sea were. There are a variety of theories. Bell-bottoms
were easier to take off if a sailor fell overboard. They were practical aboard ship as
well. Sailors could more easily roll them up to scrub the decks. Another factor may be
that a standard bolt of serge was always 54" wide. This mean that bell-bottoms were a
more efficient use of the fabric. Bellbottoms were also adopted by other navies,
including the British Navy. When Prince Albery has his youngest son Prince Albert
Edward painted in an enlisted man's bell-bottom sailor suit, it created a sensation
leading to the sailor suit becominh one of the most enduring boy's fashions. The
American Navy continued using tbell-bottoms throughout the 20th century, finally
abadoning them in 1998. Bell-bottoms remained a strictly military fashion, except for
boys' sailor suits. Most boys wore sailor suits with kneepants, especially after the
1860s. There were also longpants sailor suits, these were always bell-bottoms. This
did not change until the late 1960s. At this time in America, youth, both boys and girls
began wearing bell-bottom trousers. They were particularly popular among the Hippy
Movement. I am not entirely sure why, but we note that while the Hippies and Anti-
War Movement objected to the military, the youths involved often war a variety of
military garments. The term bell-bottom ws the only term for these pants until the
mid-1960s when the term "flares" came into use. Some fashion historians claim that
the designer Coco Chanel played a role in popularizing bell bottoms. The original
flares for teenagers were jeans. In the 1970s brightly colored flares became popular
for disco dancing. Clothing companies began making flares in other materials,
especially polyester. Flares went out of style in the 1980s. There was a renewed
interest in flares duing the mid-1990s. Flares are now popular, especially for girls
jeans.
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Shooting star: Sienna Miller as Edie Sedgwick in the new film Factory Girl
As a new film opens about Andy Warhol's stylishly decadent entourage, LIZ JONES
asks why we're still so obsessed with the 1960s...
If, like me, you are still mourning the demise of Sex and the City and its endless
opportunities to play spot the designer, you will relish every scene of Factory Girl, the
biopic of poor little rich girl Edie Sedgwick, who in 1965 became an Andy Warhol
acolyte at his studio, the Factory in New York.
The film tells the story of her rise and fall, from her blueblood but deeply troubled
upbringing, to her meteoric rise as a celebrity who, err, didn?t really do very much
other than wear beautiful clothes and attend parties (how very post-modern) until her
untimely death from a drug overdose, aged 28, in 1971.
While today?s celebrities employ expensive stylists to dress them, Edie pretty much
came up with her look all by herself. Chaotic, flakey and (once her family severed the
purse strings) penniless, her trademark look was jumbled together as if by accident.
She didn?t really care what people thought of her, and definitely didn?t dress to
appeal to men.
She took dance classes in the morning (when she could get out of bed), and was often
too lazy to change out of her leotard and tights once she got to Warhol?s studio, and
so she just added things, like a pair of chandelier earrings, or a cream woollen tufted
shift, or a boy?s T-shirt she would wear as a dress.
Edie started the whole trend of wearing vintage and mixing clothes from different
decades, often raiding her patrician grandmother?s wardrobes for expensive, classic
items (a full-length leopardskin coat, a giant battered leather tote) which she then
teamed with something much younger and funkier (and you thought Carrie
Bradshaw?s hotpants worn with bare legs, heels and a fur were cutting edge).
An early trip to Paris with Warhol certainly influenced her wardrobe ? she adopted
striped boat neck sweaters, for example, and tight black Capri pants ? and it wasn?t
long before Edie?s unique style was photographed by Life magazine and American
Vogue (under the heading ?the youthquaker?, although the magazine tore up her
modelling contract when Sedgwick?s lifestyle became too sordid for the powers that
be at Conde Nast).
She was even dubbed ?the waif? a full year before Twiggy came along with her
carbon copy Leonard crop. And what about the make-up? Was Edie the first to do the
double row of false eyelashes, the pencilled-in eye socket and the matt, beige mouth
and pale skin? Well, the provenance is debatable, but Edie certainly used make-up
more and more heavily to cover up the effects of her excessive partying.
Lanvin fashion
Because Edie?s life in New York was so well documented (she was surrounded by
Warhol?s coterie of photographers, film makers and painters), the film?s costume
designer, John Dunn (whose credits include Martin Scorsese?s Casino and Julian
Schnabel?s Basquiat) was able to reproduce many of her outfits exactly, scouring
vintage shops and even buying originals on Ebay.
?I tried to use the real thing as much as possible because now there is nothing like
those fabrics from the 60s, the clothes then had a unique stiffness that can?t be
reproduced,? he says, adding that a staggering 90 per cent of the costumes in the film
were originals - by Andre Courreges, Paco Rabanne, Dior and only a smattering of
Biba and Tommy Nutter; the whole Swinging London look was never really that big
in the US.
Only a smattering of copies had to be made - some of these were based on Sixties
designs by Betsey Johnson, who had actually employed Sedgwick as a house model
when she first moved to Manhattan ? and the only contemporary clothes in the movie
were by John Galliano, from his tribute to Edie collection from a few seasons ago.
"The 1960s was a period of self-expression," says John Dunn. "Edie loved to run
around town in black tights, knee-high boots and a motorcycle cap. She would go out
for dinner at a restaurant in a boy?s T-shirt and black tights, which in the mid Sixties
was deeply shocking; no one had ever dressed that way before.
She was the first to wear dancewear as evening wear, paving the way for sportswear
which, as we know, has now taken over the world. She used to make her own
shoulder duster earrings; she liked the way they photographed."
Was it difficult getting Sienna Miller into those Sixties originals? ?Sienna was very
open and fearless,? says Dunn. ?Sometimes it was a bit of a squeeze,? counters Miller.
?Edie Sedgwick was skinnier than me, but she was a drug addict and had an eating
disorder, and I don?t.?
But she loved the clothes and feels a great deal of affinity for Edie?s approach to
fashion ? who else would be brave enough to wear Sedgwick?s uniform of leotard and
black tights to a post premiere party in New York?
?You know, the whole fashion thing, I get it really wrong and I get completely
slammed for stuff as well because I just sort of dress how I want to dress and it's
great. People respond well to it, but I get a lot of criticism," she says. "I just wear
what I want. I think that's the key - to not dress for anyone but yourself. That is what
Edie did too."
How do the clean lines, geometric shapes and primary colours translate today? Well,
rather than slavishly copying the originals, designers have updated them: fabrics are
far softer and less scratchy than the originals (Lycra, remember, hadn?t been invented,
and cashmere back then was too expensive), and colours are more muted.
And this summer you really won?t be able to avoid cropped swing jackets with large
buttons and bracelet sleeves (think also Audrey Hepburn dressed by Hubert de
Givenchy in films such as Funny Face and Charade), huge sunglasses, patterned
tights, graphic prints in orange or brown, animal prints, horizontal black and white
stripes, sleeveless A-line mini shifts and metallic gold bags and shoes.
And although, as John Dunn points out, ?The Edie Sedgwick look didn?t last very
long. It was very difficult to wear if you had hips or breasts, and so by 1969 women
were starting to welcome the more bohemian, hippy look with open arms? there is
much on offer this summer that is eminently wearable.
Luella sent a black and white horizontal stripe sweater dress down the runway (£195),
while Gharani Strok has a beautiful black jersey babydoll mini dress with a metallic
beaded neckline (£348).
For her first collection for the resurrected label Biba, Bella Freud blatantly raided the
archives, and sent out shockingly short shifts in bright colours and graphic prints; I
loved a brown print long-sleeved mini dress with ruffle collar for £195.
Happily, bearing in mind that the whole gamine, knock kneed vibe will pretty much
be over by the autumn, to be replaced with something far grown up and sombre, the
high street is awash with homages to Edie Sedgwick.
New Look?s ?Gold? collection by Giles Deacon (which goes on sale tomorrow) is
very 1965: gaudy brooches and dangly earrings, graphic pink and grey print shifts and
tweed mini dresses so short they will barely cover your knickers. Giles?s red or black
patent leather clutches for Mulberry have a very Sixties feel, too.
French Connection has a very short white sequinned shift (£150); Topshop has a black
double-breasted pea coat (which would look very Edie teamed with a peaked cap,
black opaque tights and black boots) for £65, a cream and grey striped mini sweater
dress for £18, and giant silver hooped earrings for just £4.
Flat, sparkly ballet pumps at Marks and Spencer fit the bill perfectly, too, as do the
white-framed Ray-bans on sale at David Clulow (£120). And, finally, never adopt the
look wholesale. Never wear a mini skirt with bare legs and heels; knee boots (the
stiletto kinky boots in the film were all made by Jimmy Choo) and tights are much
classier, or wear flats.
I have a friend who wears a peaked Beatles cap with jeans; wear one with an op art
mini skirt and you will look as though you are trying too hard. Huge, spiky lashed
black panda eyes will have people wondering whether you, like Edie, should be
committed, but matt, beige lips are very in this summer, and so much more kissable
than sugary pink glossy ones.
Shoulder duster earrings are great (the beautiful chandelier earrings in the film were
made by Erickson Beamon and Dior), but only if you have a gamine hair cut; on long
hair it all gets a bit too droopy.
-Daring designs-
It was during the 1960's that the bikini really came into being.
100% Sexy
Sexy Dresses
Dresses
This development also spurned the phenomenon of topless sun bathing. On the
street women had began to wear skirts above their knees and when Mary Quant wore
one of these, the mini was adopted by the masses. Young women began wearing
pants, initially this was considered shocking, but in 1966 Yves Saint Laurent
introduced trouser suits for women. By the end of the decade trousers were considered
acceptable for women. Designers also experimented with fabrications, which saw
youths wear paper, plastic and leather clothing. The hippie movement rejected
commercialism leading to second hand clothing becoming desirable for the first time.
At opposite ends of the spectrum a classic elegance was still popular. Givenchy
continued to dress Audrey Hepburn in elegant creations. When she wore a black dress
in "Breakfast at Tiffany's", the little black dress became a coveted item. Jacqueline
Kennedy, the wife of the American president exuded grace in simple clothing that still
doesn't look out of place today. Her style created so much attention that her husband
announced I am the man who accompanied Jacqueline Kennedy to Paris.'
-Lingerie-
The 1960's is often referred to as the "bra burning" generation because women used
the bra as a tool to protest for equality. They threw away or publicly burned their bras
opposing the restrictive rule's governing a woman's appearance. Many women still
wore bras, but they were more minimal and comfortable. Manufacturers began to
make lightweight, flexible bras like Rudi Gernreich's "No Bra Bra" which was a soft
bra in skin tone.
-Designers-
Pierre Cardin brought out thigh high boots and bright coloured shift dresses in mini
length. Andre Courreges designed go-go boots. Yves St Laurent developed safari
jackets and an evening style tuxedo for women. Emilio Pucci created the famous
colourful Pucci print and inspired designs like the palazzo pant.
Some of the most popular hair and beauty looks during the 1960's included;
headscarves, false eyelashes, thick dark eyeliner, long straight or wavy locks and short
cropped hair.
-Models-
Prior to the 1960's fashion models were women from aristocratic bloodlines. During
this decade photographers began to discover fashion muses on the street. The most
popular being Twiggy, a skinny 16 year old with huge blue eyes who went on to take
the world by storm in mini skirts and short shift dresses.
From Hollywood elegance to mods, rockers and flower power the 1960's was a
revolution in fashion. We continue to see designs like baby doll dresses, mini skirts
and shift dresses grace the runway and streets today.
As a young teenybopper, I wore white Go-Go boots, Mary Jane shoes, flowers in my
hair and plenty of Day-Glo and psychedelic textiles. Designer Mary Quant was my
fashion hero; Biba, Courreges, Piet Mondrian and the art of Peter Max were also a
source of style inspiration from hippie to Mod.
Incense and the Peppermint Twist, the dawning of the Age of Aquarius, Woodstock,
and flower power - the 60's! Fashion-wise, the sixties were about celebrating a
perpetual state of prepubescence - the flat-chested, coltish legged, waif-like female
(such as Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton) became the new fashion plate.
Folks were encouraged to "live for today" and a mature sense of responsibility was
often in short demand - fashion reflected this outlook by glorifying the quintessential
child within. Similarly, rebellion was in and it was a time of experimentation with
everything from sex to drugs to rock n' roll.
purple haze
In the 1960s, as a fashion design and illustration student at New York's High School
of Art and Design, along with fellow students I was immersed in the fashion of the
times - as a trend-setter. I recall going through a "purple phase" where my fellow
classmates and I wore purple from head to toe - purple tights, purple miniskirts,
purple patent leather "Mary Jane" shoes, hats, bags - I even went through a phase of
eating predominantly purple foods - talk about taking fashion way to the extreme!
Oh yes, we were fashion innovators ... stars were in. We appliqued five-pointed satin
stars on our purple t-shirts, glued them on our sneakers - I even got a star tattooed on
my shoulder! Betsey Johnson had just opened a boutique "Betsey, Bunky and Nini"
around the corner from our school and guess what she did? She copied our star motif
and incorporated star-appliqued t-shirts into her early collections. As budding
designers, did we feel ripped off? No, we were flattered.
Other fashion statements we made were culled from local thrift-shops - "little boy"
pajama tops and tee shirts, always a size too small so they'd ride up above the belly
(better in kiddie prints) were all the rage. Guess who copied that? Betsey! Before
long, trendy clothing boutiques around town were selling skimpy tops styled after the
same PJ uppers, in prints ranging from birthday cakes to little pastel elephants, perfect
to wear with anything from minis to flared jeans.
Crushed velvet anything, brocade vests and feather boas were other staples on our
lists of hot things to wear - vintage monkey or raccoon fur coats (for boys AND girls)
were also hallmarks of our high school. You could always spot an Art & Design
student by the bulky vintage fur coat and oversized art portfolio we all toted around.
Along with the Mod Squad look, came the "see-through" blouse (for boys AND girls).
Usually fashioned in chiffon, in some Day-Glo-ish color, many of us got sent to the
principle's office for wearing them! But those were the 60's and we were often sent
right back to class with nary a scolding.
My buddies and I referred to ourselves as the "Mod Squad" - no, it was not just a TV
show! We hung out on MacDougal Street in Greenwich Village, dressed to the nines,
and ... well, did a lot of posing.
Rock concerts in Central Park and the Fillmore East were also where we did a lot of
posing ... and of course, Vietnam War protests.
Victoriana
- boleros ( though it's more because they keep me warm where I need it than
because of aesthetics )
- cuff bracelets (the trend seems to have faded immediately after its beginning
over here. I see some supersized bangles, but very seldom nicely crafted cuffs)
- parasols/ nice umbrellas (though it's not really a trend, they are still more seen
than a few years ago)
- ballet flats
- pencil skirts
- gloves
- delicate stoles, wrap or shawls
- t-bar shoes
- diy/knitting/sewing (not the kind that's made to look as if the wearer made it
when it's not the case, à la Fendi knit Chef, or the even worse fake deconstructed
clothes that still can be seen everywhere)
it's nice to see people actuaLots of examples of dry denim in "what are you
wearing today" thread
I must say, though, I don't see much "street style" here ... more the absence of it
I recently saw a girl who was dressed just beautifully though, transitional outfit,
teal, camels, knits, raw leather ... so some good color trends there ...
The thing I've been seeing on the street that bugs the living s&*+ out of me is
camisole tops worn under but peeking out enough for me to see that they're
wrinkled to death--look like they've been balled up on the floor of the closet for
months. That really sets my teeth on edge
lly creating what they want with their own hands
black
new gothic*
high waist pants/skirts/shorts*
....shiny vinyl or high gloss faux leather for bags, accessories, shoes*
square" messenger bags to be worn like a handbag on one shoulder (the one in"*
(red featured on Lily Donaldson for Marc Jacobs ss 06 is gorgeous
raw denim*
black sunglasses that are very small (no large frames) in high gloss black....*
..like the one at Miu Miu ss06
sleek hair, NO highlights whatsoever, flat colors.... cut straigh across, no*
layers/chunkiness
medium sized flat buttons in same color as the fabric*
punk*
minimalism*
....long gloves, in black*
no jewelry*