JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER

NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2009 | FREE

Let’s Talk
TURKEY
RUSTIC ROASTS
The Accidental
Baker
 presidents’ message

TASTE TASTE
team contents Dear Culinary Members,

We have had a tremendous year and this seems a great Our pastry chefs have done really well and will also be
time to thank the entire culinary community for the representing us in Lyons, France, home of pastry. The two
editorial consultant 5. President’s Message incredible support we have had throughout the year. young Balinese pastry chefs who will represent Indonesia
Sarah Dougherty Chefs who have given their time to strengthen the have worked very hard and are at the top of their
6. Short Order - What’s New association, the suppliers who have sponsored our events profession. We applaud their skill and all the mentors
contributors and competitions and the young chefs who have brought and supporters they have had within the association and
Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina Valkenburg, 8. Talking Turkey at Hu’u
new energy and optimism to the Indonesian culinary beyond it. We also acknowledge the generosity of our
Es Dee, Kayti world. sponsors who have made it possible for us to compete.
10. Oscar’s Way
coordinator & marketing International competitions are costly to enter and we
10 With a New Year approaching and still many great
Miranti Amandya, Natalia Iswara 12. A Modern Man rely on our sponsors and friends in the community.
events on the horizon we have good reason to feel very
photographers 14. The Culinary Journey of Christian optimistic and excited about the culinary world we We are pleased to see the association is such great shape
Dewandra, Sarah Hinckley live in. The aim of the BCP and ACP is to create an right now and encourage new members to join us in
environment where we are always striving for the best supporting our young chefs club which has proved a
graphic designers 24. The Accidental Baker and we have been recognised internationally and at home popular and highly successful program.
DeKa
in this quest. This feels very satisfying. With both of us
26. Wine Tails as Indonesian nationals heading the sister associations
distribution
To all of you we wish a very happy and festive New Year,
Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi we have every reason to feel proud of the standards of and to those celebrating Christmas, a very Merry one.
12 28. Café Couture:
excellence we have achieved. With the brotherhood of
Local Inspirations
office chefs from around the world we still have far to go and
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn) yet it is safe to say that our future looks very bright. Vindex Tengker and Made Putra.
29. Hatten Turns 15
Travel Works Communication International
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, 30. On The Rocks In the New Year our Indonesian team will represent all of
Indonesia Asia in Chile after winning the Global Chef Asia trophy
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 32. Chef’s Xmas: in Hong Kong. Bali has the honour of taking Indonesia
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 Culinary Christmas and Asia to the prestigious final leg of the Global Chef
E-mail: [email protected] competition, and for us it is a little like sending a team
30 33. Global Chefs
Website: www.balichefs.com to the Olympics. We will be cheering them on. Simply
reaching this level of competition is a prestigious honour,
34. BCP lunches
which is well deserved, and it is a first for us. The WACS
World Congress will be held at the same time and so
37. Young Chefs Update
many of us will be there to watch the event.
38. Chefs Day Out

Taste Magazine
In this issue we asked some of our chefs what they would New Year’s Eve is normally a wash out in Bali and KuDeTa is
like for Christmas, so you can see what’s missing from your packed to the brim so we might head up to Ayana, stay the
pre press & printing by Cover photograph of southern style Turkey list. If cooking at home is on the agenda, we had Philip night and party at The Rock Bar. As everyone else is partying
PT. Dian Rakyat with all the trimmings at Hu’u cook us up a fabulous USA style turkey dinner. our chefs are busier than ever during the festive season, so
Prepared by Philip Mimbimi from Oscar at St Regis cooked us some roasts that would make we’ll look forward to catching up again in January.
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at Nutmegs at Hu’u great alternatives, and Danish sandwiches for boxing day.
www.balichefs.com Photo by Dewandra Djelantik
Of course we’d have to put them on Kayuapi’s incredible
wood-fired bread and to be patriotic we’d wash it down Have a very happy new year,
with some mimosas made with Hatten’s Jepun. Some of
Katrina’s wine cocktails would make a nice start to the The Taste Team.
day, or perhaps it would finish us.

4 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 5

 short orders short orders

Festive Baking RATIONAL Introduces

Full Service Centres
at Carrefour We are seeing more and more of the shiny, smart RATIONAL

“Christmas is always a very busy time for bakers,” explains

®
SelfCooking Centre showing up in the island’s best kitchens and
now to support the buyers, RATIONAL have introduced technical
Denis at Carrefour. “It is a time when customers are support and service centres to Bali and Jakarta. RATIONAL
looking for traditional products associated with so many Partners, PT Gastro Gizi Sarana and PT Wahana Boga Nusantara
treasured memories.” Always anticipating the demands (Lotus Food Services) can respond to service calls, troubleshoot,
of his customers, Denis has been busy testing festive carry service parts and offer service maintenance contracts to all
recipes from around the world. To sample his culinary RATIONAL users and customers for CPC, CombiMaster (CM)
delights of the world, drop in to Carrefour’s bakery. If
you have a special request this jolly baker is happiest
®
and SelfCooking Centre (SCC) lines.
PT Gastro Gizi Sarana (02 – 1563 7373 or gastro-mariska@
when his customers walk away happy. centrin.net.id)
Contact Carrefour on (0361) 8477 222 Lotus Food Services (0361 – 701650 ext 206/non food or
[email protected])
Place Your Bets Millie Chan (Sales Director for Asia Pacific)
RATIONAL International (+65 9770 9820 or m.chan@
Canggu Club is fast becoming the venue of choice for the rational-international.com
big race, which all Australians know as The Melbourne Cup.
This year the club starts the revelry at the indecent hour of
10 am with live race coverage, champagne, buffet lunch, What a Barra
fashions on the field, sweepstakes and rumour has it, a sly
Executive Chef Dorin Schuster of The Legian came across a
bookie or two.This year, in addition to the single entry tickets
local product that he felt was so good he approached Lotus
available to members for Rp150,000 and non-members at
Distribution to act as the local agent. Farmed Java barramundi
Rp250,000 (including champagne cocktail and lunch), the
is raised in open sea water with no antibiotics or hormones.
club is offering VIP tents. For $1500, companies, or friends,
It is farmed in circular floating cages held off shore ensuring
can book a private marquee on the lawn and invite ten guests
that they are still in sea water until they are farmed and flown
to enjoy the race, enjoy lunch, complimentary sweepstake
fresh the same day. Lunch at The Legian is always a treat, the
tickets and race books. Company banners will be competing
barramundi fillet served by Dorin is proof that local producers
for space among the race colours and fashionable fillies.
are working together with chefs to satisfy the local demand for
For bookings contact Canggu Club on
high quality products.
[email protected]
For more information on Java Barramundi contact Lotus
on (0361) 701650.
KuDeTa Joins Mozaic
on Miele List
Mozaic has until now been the only Bali restaurant
recognised by the judges of the Miele guide. Joining
Hatten Launches
them now in Asia’s top ten list is the stylish eatery A New Look
that becomes the hottest party venue when it counts,
KuDeTa. Bali’s Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique and More than just a locally based wine, fifteen years down the
KuDeTa have been voted among the Top 10 Restaurants track Hatten are expanding, improving and updating their
in Asia in the 2009 edition of the Miele Guide. The tropical world wines and giving them a slick new face. At a gala
Miele Guide claims to be Asia’s first truly independent event held in Sanur the new labels were dramatically unveiled
and authoritative guide to the region’s finest restaurants, one by one. According to sales and marketing manager Gigi
written by food experts. “We were aware we were in the van Kuijk the time had come for a fresh, sleek look. Sadly
running and went to Singapore to collect our award, it’s the beautiful artwork of earlier labels has been laid to rest but
great,” says Donni at KuDeTa. Looks like New Year’s Eve the new look Hatten is contemporary and in keeping with
will be busier than ever at the luxe venue. For enquiries the company’s excellent growth. For more information on
contact: [email protected] Hatten’s growth read our article in this issue.

6 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 7

 Talking Turkey
at Hu’u
The Americans have made the turkey their own in many ways. No sooner is the
Thanksgiving season over than Christmas comes around, and despite all attempts
to modernise the Christmas dinner, turkey still holds pride of place on many festive
tables.
As turkey season approaches Taste decided to go to the source and asked Philip
Mimbimi of Nutmegs Restaurant at Hu’u to prepare his idea of a great turkey
roast.
Chefs have all sorts of tricks up their culinary sleeves but when it comes to down
home cooking, surprising how many reach back to their mother’s recipes, Philip is
no exception.
He says in his neighbourhood there were a lot of Mexican families, so after his Hu’u will be offering a thanksgiving feast
family sat down to the traditional roast, they would rock up to the neighbours with all the trimmings and a traditional
who enjoyed their turkey stuffed into enchiladas. The protein-rich, low-fat bird Christmas lunch. For bookings Ph:
has a lot going for it and whatever way you slice it, the turkey is a sure sign of a 736576. Jl Oberoi, Petitenget, Seminyak.
celebration.

Cornbread stuffing CORNBREAD STUFFING Corn kernels fresh

Egg Garlic roasted
Sourdough bread Butter
Bacon, cooked, chopped
Giblets, roasted METHOD:
Salt Combine all ingredients and a bowl and
Pepper, black fresh ground mix well. Mix in the eggs to bind. Place
Parsley fresh in a well butter casserole dish and bake
Thyme fresh until firm. Cut and serve.

CRANBERRY SAUCE METHOD:

Cranberries, frozen Sweat the garlic and shallots in some
Butter butter. Then add all remaining ingredients
Shallots, minced except for the pink peppercorns and
Garlic, minced parsley. Simmer over low heat until the
Orange juice, fresh squeezed cranberries have slightly burst open.
Cinnamon stick Add cornstarch and thicken to desired
Star anise consistency. Remove from heat then add
Stock peppercorns and parsley. Adjust seasoning
Salt and taste. Serve room temperature or
Pepper, black fresh ground chilled as condiment.
Parsley chopped
Pink peppercorns, dried

November - December 2009 | TASTE 9

 2

OSCAR’S WAY
Using different and more economical cuts of meat isn’t about cutting costs 1. Crisp pork belly with red cabbage,
pickled cucumber + natural jus
as much as it is about producing more flavourful dishes. While the mouth 2. Oscar in his kitchen
3. Side dishes ready for service
may enjoy the smooth, buttery texture of wagyu, around the world people are 4. Traditional Danish open sandwiches

looking back to the days of a simple juicy steak and a flavoursome roast.

1 Many Executive Chefs get too astoundingly good. smorgasboard and the Danish open 3
busy to cook, which is why Oscar He is a great believer in supporting sandwich. Oscar has trained his staff
Perez prefers working in a smaller local producers and believes that to create the perfect sandwiches with
hotel. The Danish chef who has put local chefs should do all they can to traditional toppings.
St Regis Resort, Bali on the map is encourage and support them. St Regis is a truly international
one of the most enthusiastic cooks on His local pork belly is first braised kitchen and to show the versatility
the island and far from ready to hang upside down in water at a low heat for Executive Sous Chef Balinese Agung
up his jacket. about 30 minutes, then turned skin- Adriawan prepares a traditional
He can wax lyrical for hours about side up and bathed in salt and some Javanese beef stew which is normally
food and following our discussion on herbs and returned to the oven. LThe made with second-grade topside.
using a wider variety of meat than results belie claims that the local pork For his Semur, he has experimented
we are currently seeing on five-star is too wet to achieve a good crackling, with beef shank instead. The meat
menus, he offered to show Taste what this pork is as good as you will find is marinated with a spice mix of 4
could be achieved using lesser cuts of anywhere. coriander seed, garlic and candlenut
meat and local products. In Denmark pickles are widely then simmered slowly in sweet soy
“There is so much innovation used and in winter they are served producing a fragrant Asian-style Osso
in food now, genetically produced to cut the fat in meaty dishes. To Buco that falls apart on the fork.
breeds, molecular gastronomy, the accompany the pork he serves pickled “Diners are excited by what’s
reaction is a trend going back to real red cabbage and pickled cucumber, new, and having access to luxurious
flavours and textures in food. It is mashed potatoes and a rich jus. ingredients, but then tastes go to the
bound to happen,” he explains. For his roast beef he chooses a other extreme. I feel like we are coming
For inspiration for rustic dishes topside, a cheaper cut with very little back to wanting more flavour in our
that are full of flavour, he harks back fat. His technique is to cut off the food, more rustic food,” he says.
to his Danish roots. surface fat, lay a layer of fresh thyme He says he is lucky to have learned
“In Denmark we are very proud around the meat and then wrap the fat home-style Danish cooking because
of our local food and so almost around the roast. Braise it for colour many younger chefs aren’t exposed to it.
everything we use is local. The breed and then slow cook it in the oven until He has experimented with translationg
of cows we use for steaks and roast it reaches the desired done-ness. Let these dishes to a restaurant menu at
beef is the French Charolais.” it rest and slice it to see the beautiful St Regis, presenting them in a more
Naturally here this breed is not results. modern way, and found it worked well.
easily found so Oscar uses Australian The beef also gets the Danish He inspires all his cooks to be
angus from 1824, Australian wagyu treatment with a Danish version creative in the kitchen, under a very
and his favourite, dry-aged US beef. of the mustardy vegetable dish, disciplined system that is not different
He is also very impressed with the piccalilli. to the one he rose through the ranks
local wagyu product, Tonketsu The beauty of all this roasted meat with, and he says his Balinese staff are
from Suntory. His pork is local, is the leftovers, the makings of two among the best he has worked with.
from Mama’s and the results are legendary Danish traditions; the Ph. (0361) 77 37 30

10 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 11

 Masayasu Haruyama hails from with. Benihana may have made it

A Modern Man
Tokyo where he decided to take on famous with their theatrics but the
a skill in preference to a profession, teppan grill has been a traditional
a world he saw risky as Japanese style of cooking in Japan going back
executives are at the mercy of their to the ‘40s.
companies and live or die by their In Masayasu’s world anything
success. can be adapted and incorporated if it
The man responsible for creating Bangkay at the He started as an apprentice and works. The basis of his cooking remains
Nikko seems very much a traditionalist and Nikko is spent plenty of time peeling vegetables traditional in that he seeks harmony
and washing dishes at a large hotel and freshness above all things.
committed to quality and freshness before innovation, before deciding to take a job at a “The enjoyment of textures from
the chef behind it however has very modern manners. small restaurant where he was able to hard, soft, smooth, crisp, tender and
be involved in the process of creating mellow to include hot and cold, sweet Chef Masayasu
food from delivery to service. and bitter, sour etc, all things must be
“In a large hotel you are exposed to in harmony in Japanese preparation Nikko Bali Resort and Spa
only one area at a time. I wanted to see and that includes the presentation as Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan
what happened from purchasing to well,” he explains. Ph. (0361) 77 33 77
the arrival of the food, to butchering Any influences that work in
and sauce making before choosing harmony are acceptable and he
my specialty,” he says. admires the style of Nobu in stretching
Masayasu has transcended the the limits.
traditional world and made his The time he spent in Adelaide in
way through many countries, been Australia has had a profound effect
exposed to myriad methods and as he found there an abundance of 1. Teppan style theatrics
found inspiration in all sorts of fresh produce and also discovered the 2. Butterflied prawns
unexpected places throughout Asia, many great wines from that region, 3. Succulent beef with garlic
the Middle East and Australia. He many of which can be found on the 4. Harmony in flavour, presentation and texture
is a man of the world yet still bills Bangkay wine list.
1
himself as a Japanese chef firstly. “Basically my style of cooking is
For over 17 years he worked with fundamentally Japanese but as I have
Hyatt. In Indonesia, Guam, China, learned new things it has changed
Egypt, Dubai and Australia. He has slowly and I have adopted some
worked with the best and learned western methods,” he explains.
from many of them. The changes though are subtle and
Clearly motivated by success he completely in keeping with a Japanese
happily talks about the man who philosophy. Bangkay restaurant is
introduced teppanyaki to America the stage where he currently appears,
and championed the knife throwing where to next is anyone’s guess and
theatrics that are most often associated for this chef that is wonderful.

3 4

Stylish presentation
at Bangkay

November - December 2009 | TASTE 13

 Grilled watermelon, Mahi Mahi,
lemongrass crème fraiche, coriander

Christian, for his youth, has

had an inspiring journey. From the
THE CULINARY JOURNEY OF north–west coast of the United States
he was lured by the opportunity to

Christian
work for the recently un-retired “Chef
of the Century,” Joel Robuchon, at
the MGM Grand in Las Vegas in
his eponymous restaurant. Serving a

Hinckley
very sophisticated menu of traditional
French Cuisine in the desert that is Las
Vegas gave Christian his first taste of
the slightly bizarre world of high class
dining in unexpected surroundings so
it was no wonder that he felt Bhutan
was a natural next step!
Christian in Amandari’s The Amandari, Ubud, has recently engaged
organic garden Christian admits he has made
the services of a fine young chef, Christian some unusual choices but explains
they are progressive, the journey, the
Hinckley. In honor of their twentieth
other way round, he says would have
anniversary in October Taste Magazine been very different. The atmosphere
and tranquility offered in Bhutan
talked to Christian about the value of tradition
would not have prepared anyone for of his guests well, their desire to find that likes to drink Guinness.
and the particular exciting challenges that Vegas, yet the unusual synthesis of the familiar, but also have the choice No stranger to Bali, Christian had
twenty four hour a day ‘glamour’ and of the unusual, to be able to depend visited with his family previously and
are created in upholding the great reputation
the demands of a French master chef of the best quality of ingredients, the loved it, being in Ubud amongst the
of a well established much loved resort such was the perfect preparation for the freshest produce and make choices tranquility of the forest and close to
more independent position of chef at based around personal preferences. the ‘natural’ Bali is a dream come true,
as The Amandari, Ubud.
the Amankora of Bhutan. With this in mind he is approaching and with close friends from his earlier
Here in the landlocked kingdom, subtle changes to the menu with journeys also living and working
“The Kingdom of the Thunder great care, his love of fine ingredients on the island Christian is looking
BY KAYTI DENHAM
Dragon” the absence of neon lights, and dealing with local producers has forward to embracing the best of both
fast cars and furious living gave brought him in to contact with the his previous ‘worlds’ in the always
Christian the challenge he was best suppliers on the island so he glamorous and only very slightly
searching for and the ability to create can make good judgments about his remote resort of the Amandari.
exquisite dishes that combine high markets and his customers. To illustrate Christian’s feel for
quality ingredients with a simple A gentle shift will begin with the freshness and flavours his selection
approach to preparation that provides lunch menu and only when he has for Taste includes the piquant Tuna
guests with satisfaction and pleasure reached his idea of happiness will he Tartare with truffle mayo and teriyaki
rather than just awe. consider the next change. glaze, a beautiful Mahi Mahi dish with
The move to Amandari seems Christian understands very the lightness and aroma of lemongrass
to combine the elements of both clearly what it is like to ‘need’ your and coriander and a really superb
Christian’s previous positions. Ubud ‘comfort’ food and has his own standard, the Spaghetti Carbonara
attracts an eclectic variety of visitors, particular favorites. A big fan of with a velvety parmesan cream, basil
many of whom have come to rely on Japanese food he also enjoys the and summer vegetables. Through his
the welcome of the Amandari and Indonesian menu, especially, and I intelligent choices Christian creates
return regularly to enjoy the beauty of have yet to meet a chef who doesn’t the perfect way to celebrate the essence
the resort and the comfort it provides. enjoy this, Babi Guling. Though of the Amandari.
Christian understands the needs Christian is the first chef I have met Ph. (0361) 975 333

14 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 15

 then shaped by hand and rested half for him. Trying to instil the same 1. The rustic texture is a result of the
an hour more before being baked. It passion in them and make them feel slow process
takes almost three days to make this involved has been part of the process 2. The wood-fired oven is kept at a
bread,” he laughs. but with the bread being baked in constant temperature 24 hours a day
This process however is no a big open kitchen overlooking the 3. Coffee wood for firing the oven
laughing matter to Olivier who philodendron garden, it makes for a
has done enormous research and pleasant working environment and
consulted experts from all over the he feels the bakers are happy.
world to create this bread. Olivier claims to have the most
Using mostly local flour he tops it ecologic wood fired oven on the planet
up with whole grains of sunflowers, as the coffee wood consumption is
flaxseed and soaked wheat kernels very small. It took three people six
for his multigrain, whole wheat and months to build the “blue oven”, it
whole rye flour from Australia to weighs fifty tons, the twelve tons of
make the rustic loaves and raisins and refractory mass requires four tons
walnuts for his popular fruit loaf. of insulation mainly vermiculite (a
“The local flour is not ideal for natural mineral) to keep the heat in.
this type of bread, so it takes time An almost 24 hour a day operation
and skill to work with it,” he says. “A with very little wood used to keep the 1
good baker knows how to work with oven at the constant temperature of

The different flours, and the flour does 264 degree C, this is truly a labour of

Accidental Baker
vary so the baker has to be in tune love, and bread lovers have responded
with it.” – from restaurants to households,
Kayuapi is using over 4 tons of Kayuapi’s wood-fired bread has
flour a month, although he won’t say people raving on like lunatics –
exactly what his output is. He doesn’t perhaps it’s in the dough?
advertise or seek out customers, they
1 Time and again I am struck job was Executive Chef and F&B all come to him through word of
by what happy people bakers are. Director at Bali Intan Resort. When mouth.
According to BCP member, Denis, the second bomb went off I decided “My concept is to make this a café, Kayuapi is located on Jl. Kuwum
baker at Bali’s Carrefour, Denis, it is to take a break,” he explains. the bread has taken over for a while off Jl Raya Semer, Krobokan.
because what they create gives people He built his original oven to make but I am in the process of making the Ph: 7877476.
pleasure. Perhaps it is that simple. bread purely for himself, but he got café,” he says although he is not sure
if he will ever have a sign. “At first I 2 3
Former chef, Jean Philippe Ollivier hooked, literally.
is one such baker, a man so obsessed “I really wanted to have Warisan was a little scared I think and then it
with his bread that he has rebuilt his as my first client. When I took my became a selling point,” he laughs.
wood-fired oven eight times in the samples to see Chef Doudou he The main feature of the café
five years since he embarked on this placed an order straight away. At that will be his incredible collection of
latest leg of his culinary journey. time I was making the bread by hand philodendrons, as old as Kayuapi,
The results speak for themselves, and it nearly killed me filling that which he names as he takes you
bread that is so wonderful to eat you first order,” he laughs. around. The menu will feature rustic
can sense the incredible commitment The wood fired bread is created on specialties like his tomato tart and
in every mouthful, it’s crusty and a natural starter, sea salt and reverse another of his obsessions, very good
chewy and full of flavour. osmosis water. The starter is kneaded coffee. The café overlooks the open
“I had been working as a chef for at slow speed and then proofed bakery.
over thirty years and first came to for at least eighteen hours at room “Experts have come here and
Indonesia twenty two years ago,” he temperature before being chilled, told me I was crazy, others too, but
explains. His first job in Indonesia six hours to cool it down from 28 I believe in keeping everything very
was as Executive Sous Chef at Bali degrees C to 4 degrees C, ( the starter natural. I don’t want to put processed
Hyatt. is cooled down by using -18 degree food into my body and I won’t feed
“I was the opening chef / F&B C ice pack) it is kept in a cooler at 4 them to anyone else, this all feels very
manager at Amanwana and over the degree C for at least 18 hours. The natural to me,” he says of his food
years I have been part of many other dough is kneaded again at slow speed philosophy.
above: wood–fired bread at Kayu Api opening teams including Maxim’s and rested for one hour, cut and Training his staff and letting go a
below: Ollivier with his philodendrons Restaurant in New York. My last rested for another hour, loaves are little has been yet another challenge

16 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 17

 Rieber Thermoport Pacojet
advertorial

marbling and genetics. Master Kobe,

described as the very best beef money
can buy is in high demand from
leading chefs around the world. It is
produced from full blood and pure
bred Wagyu cattle and has a marble
score of 9 or greater.
Kobe Cuisine and Darling Downs
Wagyu are produced from full blood
Wagyu bulls crossed with beef cows to
produce a flavoursome and uniquely
Australian product, ranging from
marble score 4 and up.
All cattle from AAco’s branded
beef program are identified with radio
frequency tags soon after birth, which

A PERFECT BLEND OF QUALITY & SERVICE

allows for whole of life traceability.

?
DNA samples are collected to allow

What’s progeny testing and peace of mind

for end users. Any piece of meat

Your Beef
packed as 1824 or wagyu brands can Polyscience Thermal Circulator Microplane Grant Sous Vide Bath
be verified using DNA, which allows
efficient traceability back to the
animal’s property of origin.
Free from hormone growth
They say that everything is bigger in Texas. Well after discovering the promotants and antibiotics, AAco’s
vastness of the holdings owned and managed by Australian Agricultural wagyu spend approximately 365 days
at AAco’s world class Aronui Feedlot,
Company Ltd (AAco), that myth can be pretty well buried. eating almost 4,500 kg (10,000
With pristine farms that cover exacting procedures set out for their lbs) of a specially formulated grain
almost 7 million hectares or specific roll in delivering the final ration before leaving at a weight of
approximately 1% of Australia’s product to processing and end users. approximately 720 kg (1,600 lbs).
land mass and populated with more The consistently high quality of Aronui feedlot is recognized as Bamix Thermomix
than half a million head of cattle, AAco’s beef can be partially attributed Australia’s leading Wagyu Feedlot,
AAco is today the world’s largest to genetics (40%) but the remaining currently feeding 17,500 head of full
beef producer and Australia’s biggest 60% that affects final outcome is blood and cross bred Wagyu.
Wagyu producer. attributed to nutrition and herd Apart from the sheer size of its beef
AAco is a major player in the Asian management. The key areas are production and land holdings, AAco
market with its multi-award winning breeding, growing out on pasture, also brings a wealth of experience to the
1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu grain finishing and processing. Australian beef industry, leading the way
brands – Master Kobe, Kobe Cuisine Every animal that comes through in environmental management as well as
and Darling Downs Wagyu. the supply chain system must pass being a member of “The Greenhouse Gas
AAco’s Sales and Marketing stringent specifications at every check Challenge”. AAco stake its reputation on
Manager, Alastair Ronald, explained point to be eligible for the branded the flavour, tenderness and consistency
that the key to the company’s success beef program. This is true for both of its beef brands.
is consistency and attention to detail. the 1824 Premium Beef and Wagyu
“Consistent supply and quality is brands,” he explains.
The products that meet your most demanding needs. The
Distributed in Indonesia by
the backbone of our company brands. AAco is one of Australia’s original Sukanda Djaya (0361 - 751655) brands that are synonymous with long-lasting quality and
To achieve this it is essential that producers of Wagyu beef with three For more information see their website:
each link in the supply chain follows highly sought after brands based on
efficiency. And the assurance of a customer-oriented
www.aaco.com.au
business philosophy geared towards maximising your
business potential. Ruiter Far East - where your business is
our business.

Blk 5 AMK Tech 2 #03 - 14 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2A Singapore 567760
Tel: +65 64833022 ● Fax : +65 6234 0784 ● www.ruiter.com.sg
 The RATIONAL menu with one piece of equipment,
The RATIONAL
®
Centre 101.
SelfCooking Apply the finishing touch to your hotel, villa or restaurant with exciting

Behind A Great Restaurant new products from Hospitality Essentials.

Visit our Kerobokan showroom to view more than a thousand sample items
Jonny Schwass opened the doors personal style to open my eponymous Q: What are your favourite functions? or pick up a copy of our 2009 catalogue for the complete solution to your
of Restaurant Schwass in October restaurant. A: Overnight roast for pork shoulders, interior and exterior needs.
2007. After twenty years as a chef, steam for anglaise, sous vide and
travelling the world, he finally felt Q: What was your approach to this low temperature cooking, the
ready to return home and open his very personal venture? ability to set to half power for long
slow cooking, ability to prove and PT SOURCING BALI Jl. Gunung Salak 31a, Kerobokan, Bali, Indonesia. Tel +62 361 780 3981 +62 361 744 8025/35 Fax +62 361 430 683 [email protected] www.sb-he.com
own restaurant. In a very short span A: The restaurant is called Restaurant
of time it has become of of New Schwass because it is a very personal bake bread 5 minutes before guests
Zealand’s most successful restaurants. one, I write the menus, design the arrive, the ability to move quickly
Recognised widely by the New wine list and have final say over all between cooking programs during
Zealand press and finalist for Cuisine matters regarding the restaurant, I am a busy service and the self cleaning Custom Made Stoneware Ceramics
Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year in very lucky that I have a talented and functions.
both 2008 and 2009 as well as the loyal staff that allow me the creative
winner of South Island Restaurant of freedom to change the menus often. I Q: What has proved the greatest
the Year at last year’s Salon Culinaire, am constantly inspired by ingredients benefit of cooking with RATIONAL
Restaurant Schwass has made a big and the availability of great produce technology?
impact in a short time. gives us the ability to develop the A: We have not wasted anything
With a small kitchen and a small menu on a daily basis through overcooking in the past year,
team, Jonny Schwass prepares 90% custard bases, breads, brulees, trays of
of his menu with a RATIONAL Q: How did you plan your kitchen? duck confit, 6 pork shoulders roasted
overnight. When you understand
®
SelfCooking Centre , which allows
him incredible flexibility with his
A: It is a small restaurant that seats 38
downstairs and has a private dining the basics of the RATIONAL you
menu and which, he claims, has made room for 16 upstairs. The kitchen is become a better chef and produce
him a better chef. designed for three chefs to be able to better tasting food, and that’s what
Taste interviewed Jonny about his produce great food in limited space. keeps our guests coming back.
restaurant and his experience with The only reason we can do what we do
RATIONAL. in the space we have is because of the Millie Chan For detail contact: Wendy Thomas
Q: How many years did you work as
RATIONAL SelfCooking Centre .
® Sales Director [email protected]
a chef before the opportunity to own Q: Why did you choose RATIONAL?
International Partner Business
your own restaurant came up? A: It is the best unit on the market, (Asia Pacific)
A: I have been cooking for twenty no question. I couldn’t imagine Singapore Mobile: + 65 9770 9820
Kevala Ceramics Manufacture and Wholesale
years and only in the past two have running my restaurant without one. E: [email protected]
I been confident enough in my own We produce nearly 90% of our entire Jalan Mertasari No. 21, Suwung Kangin,
W: www.rational-international.com
Denpasar, Bali - Indonesia
p. 62361 720718 f. 62361 722674
20 TASTE | November - December 2009 e. [email protected]
www.kevalaceramics.com
 design update

Customised Design from

Hospitality Essentials
The design team at Hospitality The design stage begins with a
Essentials have worked together with consultation and is then drawn up by
some of our leading hotels, restaurants the designers and samples of various
and villa owners to design and adapt elements of the design are presented.
individual ideas to create unique The range can be as large or small as
and practical accessories suitable for the client needs it to be.
commercial use. Hospitality Essentials is now
A wide range of clients regularly working with clients from across
approach the company with ideas/ the region including Dubai and The
materials and it is then left to the Maldives to create customised designs
talented design team to merge these that are exclusive and practical.
into practical and suitable accessories In addition to the customized
for use in hotels. designs, the company also works with Hospitality Essentials
“The process starts with an idea and local designers and producers to add Jalan Gunung Salak 31A
often this will start from a material to compliment their own collection Kerobokan, Bali - Indonesia.
already in use on the premises or an designed to. A visit to the showroom in T: +62 361 744 8025/35
existing motif within the hotel. Other Gunung Salak, Krobokan is a chance F: +62 361 430 683
times it is about incorporating natural to meet the designers and gather C: +62 81337 872 575
elements that reflect the design or the ideas from their range which includes www.sb-he.com
environment,” explains Tali Philips at everything from rugs to ceramics, Distinctive Accessories for the hotel
Hospitality Essentials. service essentials and display items. industry

Sea Coral
Collection
As nature continues to inspire Jengggala, we have recently ventured into her realm
of color effects and depth with the new Sea Coral Collection. Bright and colorful
is not the theme, but rather a glossy rich brown mixed and flowing with the many
shades of sand. Considering Jenggala’s close proximity to the famous beaches of
Bali we didn’t have to travel far to study the color effects of sea coral. As the glaze
is applied by hand and left to nature’s forces in our kilns, this
collection allows each piece to mirror nature as the glaze effect
draws the glossy earthy brown glaze to flow and melt into
the golden varied sandy glaze. This mixture creates an
added form on to the ceramic shape as well as new
hues of color as the glazes mix and fuse together.
With an emphasis on the decorative, each piece of
the Sea Coral Collection is completely unique, one
of a kind, handmade piece.

Established in 1976, Jenggala has a special research and

development team whose work is formulating glazes and
body as well as application techniques. There are over 200 glazes in Jenggala, and
more than 30 years of experience in glaze application techniques. Jenggala proudly
launched the Coral Sea collection.

November - December 2009 | TASTE 23

 News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm Sage Flowers

Raw Nature
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis
sprig or two of sage under the skin
on each breast, pat down the skin,
then roast. Sage leaves can be washed
and patted dry, dipped into a batter
made with egg yolks, flour and a little
of culinary sage are edible, as well as
beautiful, and have a more delicate
flavor than the leaves.
At Raw Nature we have 5 varieties
of Sage: Garden Sage (Salvia
variety and the most widely used.
Purple sage as mentioned before is
the preferred one by herbalists for
medicinal use. Mammoth Sage is ideal
for the Japanese tempura, as the leaves
As Thanksgiving is very close by and Christmas is not far away, it’s time to start bit of milk, and then fried in olive officinalis), Purple Sage (Salvia are bigger and thicker than the Garden
thinking of what is going inside the bird. This is why in this issue I am going oil until they get crispy and golden, officinalis “Purpurea”), Tricolor Sage Sage. Golden and Tricolor Sage make
to write about the herb Sage, whose most common use today is as flavoring for like Japanese Tempura. Sage honey (Salvia officinalis “Tricolor”), Golden striking garnish for their “painted”
meat and poultry stuffings. (about one-third cup minced leaves Sage (Salvia officinalis “Aurea”) and appearance. Sage Edible Flowers are
warmed with three-quarters cup Mammoth Sage (Salvia officinalis really pretty as well as delicious and give
Sage is native to countries
Tricoloured Sage mild honey) is a wonderful addition “Berggarten”), as well as the Sage a striking finish when sprinkled on the
surrounding the Mediterranean Sea
to tea or biscuits. Sage cider vinegar Edible Flowers. pasta dishes served with burro e salvia
and has been consumed in these
makes great marinades. The flowers Garden Sage is the most common sauce or of crostini with liver pate.
regions for thousands of years,
especially because it has impressive
therapeutic properties. The scientific
name for Sage, Salvia officinalis, is Saltimbocca Alla Romana
derived from the Latin salvere, to
be saved, in reference to its curative INGREDIENTS • 10 large fresh sage leaves, chopped
properties. • 4 thinly sliced veal cutlets (can use chicken or pork, as well) • 2 teaspoons salt
The Romans used to say: • 4 slices thinly sliced prosciutto ham (Parma ham) • 4 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Cur moriatur homo cui Salvia crescit • 8 fresh sage leaves, plus more for garnish All-purpose flour, for • 2 loaves stale white bread (about 36 slices), crust on, cut into 1-inch
Purple Sage dredging
in horto? cubes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 2 bunches fresh flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
‘Why should a man die whilst sage
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
grows in his garden?’
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 cups chicken broth or stock, cooled
Sage was in so much demand • 2 tablespoons dry white wine
in China during the 17th century, • 4 cups homemade turkey giblet stock (use chicken stock if Turkey
Golden Sage • 1/4 cup chicken broth Giblet stock not available)
appreciated for the delicious tea • Lemon wedges, for serving
beverage that it makes, that the
Chinese are said to have traded three both calm and stimulate the nervous the turkey. However, in European and DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS
cases of tea leaves (camellia sinensis) to system. Research published in the Mediterranean cuisines, it has many Make turkey giblet stock Melt butter in a large skillet. Add onions
Put the veal cutlets side by side on a sheet of plastic wrap. Lay
the Dutch for one case of sage leaves. June 2003 issue of Pharmacological more uses. Burro e salvia is a method and celery and cook over medium heat until onions are translucent,
a piece of prosciutto on top of each piece of veal and cover with
According to medical herbalists, Biochemical Behavior confirms what of frying sage leaves in a mixture of another piece of plastic. Gently flatten the cutlets with a rolling pin about 10 minutes. Add sage, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine, and
Purple Sage, is the preferred herbalists have long known: sage, due olive oil and butter, until they are or meat mallet, until the pieces are about 1/4-inch thick and the cook 3 to 4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth and stir well. Cook
medicinal variety. to the cholinesterase it contains, is an crispy, invented by the Romans, prosciutto has adhered to the veal. Remove the plastic wrap and lay a for about 5 minutes, reducing to half. Transfer onion mixture to a
Its power in boosting natural outstanding memory enhancer. In a and still used in Italian cuisine as a couple of sage leaves in the center of each cutlet. Weave a toothpick large mixing bowl. Add bread cubes, parsley, and eggs. Pour remaining
estrogen production make it trial of 42 patients, sage extract was condiment gnocchi and pumpkin in and out of the veal to secure the prosciutto and sage. Put some stock and broth over mixture. Mix to combine. Bake stuffing in a
particularly beneficial for the night compared to placebo in patients with ravioli. It blends well with mild flour in a shallow platter and season with a fair amount of salt and buttered pan at 375F until brown. Drizzle with turkey drippings
sweats and hot flushes of menopause mild to moderate Alzheimer’s, and cheeses. Try a little sage on a grilled pepper; mix with a fork to combine. using a turkey baster during the cooking.
and generally helps the body to adjust found that the cognitive function of cheese sandwich made with fontina Dredge the veal in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess.
to hormonal changes. In the form of those taking the sage was significantly cheese and dark bread. Marinate goat Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter and in a large skillet over CRANBERRY SAGE SAUCE (makes 2 1/4 cups)
an infusion (15 gr of leaves in 250 ml better at three months. For culinary cheese with olive oil, peppercorns, medium flame. Put the veal in the pan, prosciutto-side down first. INGREDIENTS
of boiling water), thanks to the volatile use sage, being highly aromatic, is garlic, and some small sage leaves. Cook for 3 minutes to crisp it up and then flip the veal over and sauté • 1 cup (200 g) sugar
oil thujone, sage has an antiseptic and the other side for 2 minutes, until golden. Transfer the saltimbocca to • 1 cup (250 mL) water
best used fresh, when its flavor can be Or add one-quarter cup minced
antibiotic action and is very effective a serving platter, remove the toothpicks, and keep warm. • 4 cups (1 12-oz package) fresh or frozen cranberries tops of 9 stalks
described as a mix of rosemary, pine sage leaves to an 8-ounce package of
for the cure of all affections of the Add the wine to the pan, stirring to bring up all the delicious of fresh sage,
and mint. Because of its strong flavor, cream cheese and let sit for at least
flavor in the bottom; let the wine cook down for a minute to burn off • orange peel
mouth: to relieve sore throats and, it can overwhelm, so should be used an hour before spreading on bagel some of the alcohol. Add the chicken broth and remaining tablespoon
as a gargle, to encourage the healing sparingly. Unlike the more delicate chips. It is the herb of choice in the of butter, swirl the pan around. Season with salt and pepper. Pour DIRECTIONS
process, especially for mouth ulcers herbs, it can be added at the beginning preparation of liver pate, mitigating the sauce over the saltimbocca, garnish with sage leaves and lemon
and sore or bleeding gums. of cooking and pairs nicely with its rich flavour, thus giving the dish Wash and pick over cranberries. In a saucepan bring to a boil water
wedges; serve immediately. and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add cranberries and sage, return
As a tea (to make it more palatable, other strongly flavored herbs, such as a subtle sublime finish. Try covering
infuse 15 gr of fresh sage leaves in a rosemary, thyme, savory, and oregano a pork roast with sage leaves before to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer for 10 minutes or until cranberries
TURKEY STUFFING
liter of boiling water for half an hour, as well as the lemon herbs. As I was roasting; or gently separate with your burst. At this point add a few strips of orange peel.
INGREDIENTS
add 30 gr of sugar and the juice of 1 mentioning at the beginning sage is hands the skin from the breast meat Remove from heat. Cool completely at room temperature, remove
• 2 sticks butter
lemon and then strain), sage has been a must in the preparation of poultry of a chicken or turkey, rub a little sage stalks and then chill in refrigerator.
• 4 onions (2 pounds), cut into 1/4-inch dice
administered, taken internally, to stuffings, most notably the big bird, butter on the meat, then place a small Cranberry Sage sauce will thicken as it cools.
• 16 celery stalks, cut into 1/4-inch dice

24 TASTE | November - December 2009

 wine plus cocktail recipes that Yellow Tail
recently emailed to me.
We just had to try them.
AUTUMN PEAR
1 serving
Ingredients:
STORMY WEATHER 1 serving
Ingredients:
• Ice

tails
Unfortunately, Yellow Tail wines and • Ice • 1 1/2 ounces dark or aged rum
a couple of the more exotic liquors • 1 1/2 ounces riesling, such as • 1 1/2 ounces shiraz or cabernet
weren’t available for our experiments Yellow Tail shiraz blend
so we substituted them with a couple • 1 ounce pear brandy or pear eau de • 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lime
of well-priced wines courtesy of vie juice
IndoWines and had fabulous barmen • 1/4 ounce amaretto • 1/4 ounce tequila
Gopha at Nutmegs whiz them up. • 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon • 1 dash Angostura bitters (optional)
The results were mixed, perhaps juice • Ginger beer
in part because we had to substitute a • 1 teaspoon simple syrup Directions:
couple of ingredients but of the five we • 1 pear slice, for garnish Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with
By Katrina Valkenburg tried, three were excellent, including the Directions: ice. Add the rum, shiraz or cabernet
two above. This exercise woke me up to Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with shiraz blend, lime juice, tequila and
the endless possibilities of wine-based ice. bitters, if desired. Shake well, then
cocktails. Even if you have only the Add the riesling, pear brandy or pear strain into an ice-filled highball glass.
rudimentary ingredients of a cocktail eau de vie, amaretto, lemon juice and Top off with ginger beer.
bar, with a little imagination you’ll be simple syrup. Shake well, then strain
Katrina Valkenburg is a wine educator
whizzing up impressive winetails to into a chilled cocktail (martini) glass. consultant & writer.
titillate your taste buds in no time. Garnish with the pear slice. Email: [email protected]
I’m going to start this article with bottles, there are a number that I’d far more palatable, Sangria, as
a confession: I’m a wine snob. It all pass up on if it weren’t for the fact have many other European nations
began when I was lucky (or unlucky) that there’s often not much choice. who began making mulled wine
enough to meet and fall in love with
a wine journalist some 25 years ago.
What to do with a pretty ordinary
wine if you’re used to drinking well
as an answer to storage and quality
problems.
tasting notes
He taught me about all things vinous (beyond one’s means in my case) – Yellow Tail is the largest imported Leyda Neblina Single Vineyard predominantly Syrah (Shiraz) with a hint of Cabernet
and from that moment to this day, I and I’m not talking about wine that brand into the United States Riesling 2008 Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to round out the palate.
have drunk my way around the wine is oxidised by being left out of the (approximately 10 million bottles This extremely well made Chilean Riesling is a real
world, speaking both literally and fridge for days on end? annually) and its reach is globally surprise with fresh and tangy fruit flavours balanced Tabali Cabernet Sauvignon
by a gentle sweetness and firm acidity. With so few Reserve 2005
metaphorically. The answer may lie in the new humungous due in part to its fruity
Rieslings available currently, this wine should be a Very deep ruby red in colour and showing all the
Before moving to Bali, I was used trend for winetails – cocktails made appeal to the virgin palate and its classic aromas, this Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon is
must on all good wine lists.
to receiving upward of ten wine using wine as the base. This word, value for money. a real find. Ripe fruit with hints of eucalypt, mint
samples each week. Some were, of coined by the makers of Yellow Tail Yellow Tail employed the services Viña Von Siebenthal Carabantes and blackberries it has good body and length and a
course, outstanding examples of their in Australia, has taken a hold in the of a mixologist named Trudy Thomas, Syrah 2006 velvety smooth mouthfeel. Again, best matched with
ilk, others were more run-of-the-mill cocktail crazed United States and will beverage director for the Camelback Deep red in colour with aromas of all the red berries, rich red meat dishes.
and it is these I’m going to discuss in no doubt become a well-used term Inn in Scottsdale, Arizona who liquorice, white pepper and mint, this hearty red wine contact: Anom Adnyana
high-wine-priced Bali. globally within nano-seconds. began developing cocktails using will stand up to the meatiest of dishes. Named after [email protected]
Although I would suggest that The Spanish have long been the company’s wines. She then put the Spanish priest who first brought vines to Chile, it is PT Indowine 0361 8477232
there are few rotten wines put into turning simple wines into something together a little book comprising 40-

26 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 27

 café couture

Local Inspirations
Hatten Wines
Bali has too many restaurants to even count, and that’s not including the ones
which come and go before anyone has even really noticed. But now that western
imported products are getting harder to find and more expensive to ‘source’, maybe

Bali’s Own
we should all think about the good local alternatives to western food.
In Sleepy Sanur (which is actually
not snoring that much anymore) try
LA PAU on the By Pass….not too
far from Natrabu where it started its
life in the parking lot on Fridays and
Fifteen years ago, consumers were somewhat mystified by the launch of a Balinese
Saturdays from 10 pm ON. Now wine company, fifteen years later the wisdom of such a venture has been dignified by
located in its own leafy garden, LA unrivalled support and international recognition.
PAU specializes in home cooked food
from Minangkabau or West Sumatra. Hatten was born of a small family- and Argentina,” explains Don.
Metrus, (who claims his name is from run company producing Brem, the He is committed to the quality and
menderita terus or suffer constantly?), local rice wine. The Owner/Director varieties of wine produced by Hatten
learned to cook from his mom, one of of Hatten, I B Rai, an agricultural and claims that their biggest seller,
the long term cooks at another Padang engineer, had the idea of harvesting Hatten Rose, is perfectly suited to
restaurant. Metrus serves a selection grapes, in the north/east area of Bali. Bali. “It is light and refreshing with a
of traditional Padang dishes and of The 14.5 hectare vineyard has been relatively low alcohol content. Perfect
I.B. Rai with the original oak
course has rendang and sambal hijau successfully farmed ever since and the for sipping with grilled fish while
barrels used for wine production
but lots of other things as well. New go early and sit where you can’t see that road. This place has really tasty company buys grapes from other local watching the sun set over the beach
items are vegetarian Rendang Nangka any smokers. Service is fast and prices Mie Ayam with no extra seasoning farmers in the area, turning this into a we harvest otherwise there will be no in Jimbaran.”
(breadfruit) and Buntut Asem Pedes are very reasonable. necessary. They also have a vegetarian thriving area for grape production. down time and they need it to recover. He believes that the sparkling will
(hot and sour oxtail). Monday nights In downtown Denpasar, there is a MIE HIJAU which is nice. Noodles The hiring of award winning wine So here we artificially create the ideal be their fastest growing wine as this
there is (usually!) great music from hideaway restaurant next to the old and tea for 2 comes to about Rp. maker Don Buchanan, formerly conditions,” says Don who has made is a world trend and he believes both
the Tropical Transit band who have Samudra called AYAM RICA RICA 40,000. Of course you have to be up associated with prestigious Australian enormous changes to the winery since the Tunjung and the Jepun sparkling
been entertaining expats for years and and they also have a branch on the for street side eating, but some of us labels such as Lindeman, Krondorf, he has arrived. are excellent value and good wines in
Fridays features a blues band. Lots road from Iman Bonjol that goes to look forward to a meal at a place like Arrowfield, and former Australian Physically the way the wine is stored, themselves.
of beer on music nights!! Closed on Kerobokan. There is a selection of this….a nice Sunday lunch place. Winemaker of The Year, has been a fermented, filtered and bottled has Value has been the greatest
Sundays. Mon-Sat 10 am-11 pm. great hot pots, the food that finishes Checking out the local cafes is significant shift for the wine company. been the greatest area of innovation. advantage Hatten has had in the past,
Over in Renon, to sample cooking at your table… beef, seafood, a culinary adventure that provides “When I came in they asked me to Hatten’s winery now boasts some of however with the company’s new
quintessential Sundanese food, try veggie only with lots of chili and inspiration and an introduction local completely overhaul the winery but the most up to date equipment in the look labels they are heading into the
Ikan Bakar Cianjur. It is an assault kangkung. Their soups are nice and ingredients you may not know of, but not to change the wine at all, they world and the company is planning future with the assurance that Hatten
on the senses with some of the worst the sambal mangga to die for. And of which can add new elements to many were happy with it,” Don explains, further innovations including an can also deliver a quality wine and
acoustics in town, but also some course, ayam rica rica from Menado of the Western dishes we cook. “so of course, I changed everything,” increasingly ‘green’ future. the customers are responding with a
of the best fish. They have a large and lots of choice in grilled fish. Looking to the local food on street he laughs. “The wine we create is in a new resounding yes!
selection of deep fried or grilled Service is generally ok unless level can be illuminating and in The fruit is what determines the category known as Tropical World
fish, several really nice veggie greens you go in when it’s full, and then our increasingly global community wine and there are slight variations wine. It is a newly recognised style of THE CELLARDOOR
including something like ferns and a its better to choose another night. influences are crossing more than the with each crop. Don’s greatest winemaking and our Alexandria wine Komplex Dewa Ruci #3
fabulous tahu in a sauce that is truly Prices very reasonable. street, they are crossing oceans. contribution to the wine itself has has won several international awards Jl. By-pass Ngurah Rai, (Simpang Siur),
scrumptious. That’s the good bit. The On the Hero side of that street near Clever cooks and fascinated foodies been to fine-tune the balance. in this category. Despite our small Kuta, Bali
bad bit is the noise and the fact that Ayam Rica Rica is MIE BANDUNG, are discovering there is more to “In the tropics growing grapes and size we are now recognised as one Tel: 0361-767-422 Fax: 0361-768-418
there is not a non smoking area. So, one of the small kiosk places lining Indonesian cusisine than nasi goreng. creating wine is quite specialised. We of the world leaders in this category, www.hattenwines.com
have to put the vines to sleep after which includes places like Vietnam [email protected]

28 TASTE | November - December 2009 November - December 2009 | TASTE 29

 Exotic cocktails 2 1
on the rocks

1. Another day at the office

2. & 3. Rock bar bites

would open a new bar on the cliff to “My idea for the cocktails was to
open in July. I thought, that can’t be play on the classics, the location and
true! In May and June I still did not the sunset, the most spectacular time
believe it and then one day, it was to be here. I bought in the martini

on the
there,” he laughs. club menu for a little sophistication
When it came to creating the The stunning new Rock Bar was and created a range of cocktails

ROCKS
menu for the resort’s spectacularly designed by Yasuhiro Koichi of that are fresh and fruity,” he says
located Rock bar, Marc stepped Japan’s Design Studio SPIN, whose of the large size cocktails that sit in
up to the bar and created a drinks works include NOBU Tokyo and fishbowls to great effect.
list to, ‘match the moments of the NOBU Hong Kong, a virtual So this creative F&B Director
sunset’ which is a huge drawcard for cliff hanger with extensive glass together with his staff, who he
He may have hung up his chef ’s jacket but the cliff-face bar. bars and hideaway terraces. The describes as among the best he has
Ayana Resort’s Food and Beverage Director With his own Michelin star, sophisticated bar menu has also met in his extensive career, refined
Marc Dobell is still a cook at heart. an illustrious career and his years been tailored for the venue with the Rock Bar concept which has
in Cannes creating some of the bites that sing of the location. proved a winning addition to
world’s most extravagant parties, Fast becoming one of the must Ayana Resort.
this is a man who knows how to see places to visit, DJ and live Dava’s wine dinner on Nov 6
turn up the volume. performances are regularly featured introduces new chef William.
“When I first arrived here in and New Year’s Eve is expected to be
April 2009 the owner told me they a huge night at the Resort. Another rocktail anyone?

November - December 2009 | TASTE 31

 chef’s xmas global chefs

Bali Wins
“Our chefs have a great chance
of winning this event and the more

Christmas dessert by Vincent Stopin at St Regis. Photo by Dewandra

support we can gather for them,

Global Chef Asia Crown

the greater their chances are. The
competition is one of the most
prestigious international events in the
culinary industry and will require
In one of the most triumphant
discipline, practice and culinary

Culinary
moments in Bali’s culinary history,
skill,” explains Andrew Skinner.
two of Bali’s chefs astounded the
Preparation for the event is vital
Asian community by taking the
to ensure that the team is confident

Christmas
crown for Asia’s Global Chef.
in their bid. It is an intense level of
The win lines them up to
competition with the eyes of the
compete against the world’s best
world on the chefs who have come
in the internationally renowned
to compete in this highest level of
Global Chef competition in
international competition.
Santiago, Chile in January 2010.
Chef I Wayan Wicaya is
Balinese chef Mr I Wayan
Executive Sous Chef at Bulgari
Wicaya and apprentice Alexander
Bali Resort with many years of
Tanuhardja, both of Bulgari Bali
experience behind him. He is a
Resort, took the honours earlier
talented and creative chef who has
this year at the World Association expertise to the team for the upcoming
Taste asked some of our leading chefs and contributors what board, sleep in pass and unlimited of Chefs Society (WACS) Global challenge and will travel to Bali in
been in the industry for over twenty
relaxing on a Balinese sandy beach years explains Andrew Skinner.
they would like for Christmas. While there were a few surprises, with my 2 girls and wife.
Chef Asia competition held in Hong the coming months. Those who
His commie, Alexander Tanuhardja is
Kong earlier this year. have been asked are ranked as high-
most of them wanted something extra in their kitchens. For our For people who have never played
“This win is very prestigious for level competition judges who have
the first student to receive a sponsorship
Monopoly I am sorry I cannot help if from BCP as part of the Young Chefs
part, the staff at Taste would like some time off, to get ready to you don’t get it !!. Indonesia,” explains BCP President achieved culinary accolades including
program. Since his graduation he has
Made Putra. WACS Asia Director, John Sloane of
bring you a bigger, better magazine in 2010. We hope all your Preparing for Chile will involve Resort World, Singapore.
secured employment at Bulgari Bali
Professionally I want 2 new shiny
Resort and is currently president of the
wishes come true! Paco Jet machines............ these little many hours of practice once the key Currently BCP is finalising its
Young Chefs Club in Bali.
babies are the ultimate in delivering ingredients are announced. The event sponsors as the challenge is a costly
the lightest, silkiest and smoothest ice will be held in conjunction with the one to stage and the team relies on
Chris Salans (Mozaic): 2. Professionally I am hoping for a creams and sorbets ever!!! For media and sponsorship enquiries
WACS World Congress, an event corporate sponsorship. Throughout
Professionally for Christmas I wish thermo immersion circulator. To contact Natalie at
that brings together the top industry Indonesia many companies have
Santa would send me a blast freezer/ better help with sous vide cooking. Philip Mimbimi (Huu): c.o. Travel Works Communications
professionals and press from around expressed interest in supporting the International
chiller. They are very difficult to get A. For myself, I’d like some new plants
the world. high-profile event, which will bring Jl. Kesari no. 60A
and cost a fortune. But if I had one I Penny Williams (Alila Manggis): in my garden at home (and time to
A number of foreign-based chefs international attention to Indonesia Tel 0361.284095, Fax 0361.270189
could also do miracles with it! Christmas, Christmas Christmas.... plant them?) E-mail : [email protected]
I wish that Farther Christmas would B. At work I’m dreaming of a wood have been asked to contribute their and to Bali.
Personally I wouldn’t mind a set of drop down my kitchen exhaust a fired grill with ample amounts of
synthetic wicker furniture to put on handsome, muscle rippling thinly mesquite, and apple wood!
my porch and around our pool. It clad gentleman, that can whip up all
would allow me to invite more people my favorite dishes, keep the fridge Raul Deschu (Padma):
over to our house!!! stocked with veuve Cliequot and Profesionally I’m after a supplier that
desires to obey my every command. has anything on stock at any time,
Christian Hinckley (Amandari): and lower import taxes!!
Thanks for the note. Tough questions. Professionally I would love a set of Personally, this will come as no
Here is what I want. Japanese knives. Very sexy! surprise to many chefs, I’d like more
1. Personally I would love to receive time with my family.
1 pack of sour patch kids (American Andrew Skinner (Bulgari): Happy Cooking!
candy), 1 bottle of Red Hook IPA This Christmas I would like an
(American beer) and dinner and envelope “with a little bit like a get Katrina Valkenburg our wine writer,
lodgings at Michel Bras in Laguiole, out of jail for free card - but a get out isn’t asking for too much, “easy - a
France. of work card including 1 week full RoboJet!”

32 TASTE | November - December 2009

 Claire (Villa Coco), guest, and Markus Wayan Sudiana (The Bali Khama),
Wendy (Kevala) & Phillip (Hu’u) Yannic (Mannekepis) & Enrico (Oberoi) Penny (Alila Manggis) (The Westin) Hidayat (Megah Food Trading), and ICA guys

Warm Bedugul Strawberries

Slow Roasted Pork Loin Ayu and Elly (Unilever)
Best of British Fresh at Flying Fish
at Padma
Despite language difficulties (mainly One of the increasing numbers of local
the accents) John Taylor and his newly chefs who have moved into the top position,
appointed Executive Sous Chef, Raul Executive Chef Wayan Wenten pulled out
Deschu, overcame cultural differences a string of fresh flourishes to entertain the
to showcase what is fast becoming a hot BCP members and guests at the September
culinary trend, retro British food. John lunch. A dazzling number of seafood
and his talented offsider (aka sausage roll) appetizers were passed around while guests
showcased their stylish whims with an enjoyed the beachfront location. Cigarette
extended ploughman’s lunch buffet that sized shrimp spring rolls, oyster shooters, a Chris and
dazzling arrangement of freshly made sushi Leony (Holiday Inn)
included tiny pork pies with quail eggs
that had everyone filling up their bags with was just the start. Dragged away from the
Adrianto (BGI), Markus (Legian Beach), Oyster
bungkus. EntrÈe involved a ravishingly glamorous deck guests were then served Bevan (BGI), Markus (The Westin)
rich oxtail soup with a puff pastry top, with Tasmanian salmon dressed with fresh
followed by slow roasted pork with all the Asian flavours followed by a generous
trad trimmings. With the guests feeling portion of the impressive local wagyu
pretty porky themselves by now, dessert fillet served with tempura prawns. Happy
was no less than golden syrup steamed endings are made of Flying Fish’ signature
pudding. Try walking home after that! dessert of warm Bedugul strawberries in a
syrupy vinegar sauce with toffee ice-cream
Venue: Padma Hotel, Jl. Padma, legian. and a crisp shard of honeycomb. Way to
go Wayan!
Venue: O-CE-N at Outrigger, Double
Six beach, Legian.
Ray (Samaya) & guest Girls at lunch

Tasmanian Salmon

Hans (Taman Safari), Made Lugra (The

Boys at lunch John and Raul (host chefs from Padma) Golden syrup sponge pudding Assorted sushi Samaya), Wayan Wenten (the host chef)
BCP Membership 2009 young chefs
NAME
Arry Afianto
David Smith
COMPANY
Alam boga
Alam boga
NAME
Henny Santoso
Jeff Matthews
COMPANY
Lotus Distribution
Mandara Spa What’s
on their
Hendra Noviar Amier Alam boga Yannic Van Meckeren Mannekepis Bistro
Vynna Indra Alam boga Jayadi Masuya Graha Trikencana, PT
Penelope Williams Alila Hotel Manggis Hidayat Megah Food Trading
Christian Hinckley Amandari Ketut Sumatra Melia Benoa
Olaf Aistleitner
Adrianto Mulia
Haryanto Mulia
Ni Wayan Santo Asih
Arena Sport Café
Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Christopher J Salans
I Made Sudana
Juergen Domani
Katarina Sari
Mozaic
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
mind?
Dienly Wong Asri Indonesia, PT Stefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Simon Yap Asri Indonesia, PT Christian Gerart Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Ever wonder how our next culinary generation thinks ? Just take a peek at their
Winyoto Asri Indonesia, PT Darren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
views on some culinary matters.
Alexander Erich Aston Kuta I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Attila Koermoeczi Ayodya resort I Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Adrianto Bahana Gourmet Indonesia Ni Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Where do you think the hospitality industry in Indonesia is heading ?
Pramudya Bevan Bahana Gourmet Indonesia Reto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa Indonesia has a rich culture, nature, and also signature food, that’s why
Daud L Pakpahan Bali Bird Park Wayan Wenten O-CE-N Outrigger Resort Indonesia has to be “One of the Countries you must visit before you die”.
Ketut Sukamara Bali Golf and Country Club John Taylor Padma Bali
- Alfan Musthafa -
Endris Yuliawati Balivillas.com Ketut Pong Atmajaya Padma Bali
Isabella Lin Balivillas.com Raul Deschu Padma Bali
Peter Rieger Balivillas.com Wayan Nurisa Padma Bali What are the new trends in the world of food and how can Indonesia
Agus Wiryawan Banyan Tree Ian Roberts Pamerindo incorporate this ?
Torsten Schubert Banyan Tree Maldives Kadek Widiantara papa’s Café I think healthy food will be the biggest trend. In Indonesia people always
Sugihanto Sachid Bapak Bakery Carlos Vinas Barmona Pica Tapas
use fresh root herbs and spices and other fresh ingredients. So healthy food is
Mouelhi Issam Best Western Premier Dewi Rusmala Pica Tapas
Franky Alexander Buana Agung Lestari Jimmy Julianto Pica Tapas already part of our culture. - Jatu Rizki Putra Anurantha -
I Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari Neeta Malhotra Queens tandoor
Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari Ing Gerold Eichinger Raja Bamboo, CV You are seeing a rise in health issues. How do young chefs feel about this ?
Andrew Skinner Bulgari Made Budiasa Pendit Sanur Beach Aerowisata As a young chef, I am aware of health issues. The Indonesian Young Chefs Club is
Heinz Von Holzen Bumbu Bali Sven Hollinger Satria Pangan Sejati
an active organization which considers these issues and the solutions. - Kris -
Dennis Langlois Carrefour Denny Rahman Shalira Spa
Bayu Lagimin Classic Fine Foods Jean Philippe Petit Shalira Spa
Dhany Parwanto Classic Fine Foods Nyoman Puja Siap Bali
I Gde Rastarama Classic Fine Foods Rick Bolt Smart Energy
Kib Roby
AA Rai Gunawan
Dharma Teas
Discovery Kartika Plaza
Enny Kudung
Mr Robert Jansen
Soejasch
Soejasch
Next BCP Lunch
I Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika Plaza Tutik Yantini Soejasch Venue : The Legian
I Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika Plaza I Made Manahara Sukanda Djaya, PT
Iwan hari Cahyo Discovery Kartika Plaza Izwantini Sukanda Djaya, PT Address : Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak
Made Sebastian Suanda Discovery Kartika Plaza Rusli C.J. Lokman Sukanda Djaya, PT Day/date : Saturday, 28th November 2009
Ni Made Suwartini Discovery Kartika Plaza Brandon Huisman The Bale Time : 12.30
Johan Meyers DP Kitchen I Wayan Sudiana The Bali Khama
Terry Deweer DP Kitchen Jacky Ames The Beach House
Eko Putranto Ecolab Nigel Ames The Beach House
Ernst Jaeck Grand Hyatt Bali Aprin Sukarno Putra The Laguna
Saptono Grand Hyatt Bali I Made Linggi The Laguna
Wayan Widiana Grand Hyatt Bali I Made Putra The Laguna
Sang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian Hotel Ida Bagus Partama The Laguna
Hugo Declerck HerBali Nyoman Wijana The Laguna
Anik Purwati Hocatsu Bali, PT Ridwan The Laguna
Ida Ayu Sutamaya Hocatsu Bali, PT Dean Keddel The Samaya
Mahesa Dentha Hocatsu Bali, PT I Gede Juastra The Samaya
Leony Rossalia Hartono Holiday Inn I Made Lugra The Samaya
Jason Vito Suwantika Hu’u Bali I Wayan Sudarsana The Samaya BCP Christmas Party
Philip Parfait Ekoto Mimbimi Hu’u Bali Michael Shaheen The Samaya Venue : Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Arie Sumartini Ikan Segar Bali Ray Clark The Samaya
Bill Marinelli Ikan Segar Bali Markus Krickelberg The Westin Address : Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan
Rositha Wardhani Ikan Segar Bali Budhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti Mandiri Day/date : Saturday, 19th December 2009
I Nyoman Parwata Indoguna Bali Ni Made Kariani Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Sarita Sanowi Indoguna Bali Shirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Thierry Brocard Indoguna Bali Renaud Le Rasle Ubud Hanging Gardens
Wendy Jane Thomas Kevala Ceramics Ayu Arsanti Unilever Food Solutions
I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Kori Restaurant Elly Gultom Unilever Food Solutions
Ralf Schmidt Kori Restaurant Puri Danandari Prodjo Unilever Food Solutions
Markus Reichl Legian Beach Hotel Claire Quinn Villa Coco
Bruno Militia Live Shell Made Witha Witha Bakery
Ayu Suharyani Lotus Distribution Helmut Walter Schafer
Bill Busch Lotus Distribution
 chefs day-out

fwun ima l s
ith the an

No matter what age you are it is are wonderful performers and the
impossible to resist the attractions at people aren’t bad either. It’s an glass. Uma Restaurant is set up as a
Bali Safari Park, undoubtedly a big extravaganza more like you’d expect food court with private and public
part of the attraction for groups who to see in a US theme park and the areas capable of catering to large
are choosing to entertain their staff Bali Safari managers say it takes a numbers and small groups.
and families at the Gianyar park. long time to stage one of these shows Professional management and
Whether it is the animals, the rides, and therefore change them once a devoted zoo keepers together with
the shows or the restaurants, the 40 year or so. all the latest methods of keeping
hectare landscaped park has more on For corporate outings it is happy, healthy animals has resulted
offer than most people can enjoy in a increasingly popular as the appeal of in a park that is world class and
single day. the park is so wide. In addition to the attracting numerous experts in zoo
This is the third park in the family amazing collection of exotic animals management who have all given the
run company, the other two are in that are housed in beautiful park-like park the thumbs up.
Java. With decades of experience with surroundings and best viewed from This year some of BCP’s members
caring for and breeding animals, the the air-conditioned safari buses, there will escort a group of children from
park has a huge variety of animals and is also a fun park and a water park. a local orphanage as part of the
carries a strong conservation message Food and Beverage is managed International Chefs Day, an outing
as well. by ex-Hyatt Executive Chef, that promises to be as fulfilling and
The main show at the park is set Mahadi who oversees a number of educational as it is fun.
in a Sumatran village and highlights themed restaurants and food outlets
the relationship between villagers and throughout the park. These include Bali Safari Park is located on Jl By-
the elephants as natural habitats are the Tsavo Lion Restaurant where the Pass Prof Dr. Ida Bagus mantra,
increasingly threatened. The animals lions are mere metres away behind Gianyar. PH: 950000.

38 TASTE | November - December 2009