Tuning for Tens

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Copyright 2000
All Rights
Reserved
By Rick
Stonebraker

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FOREWORD
An important part of archery is the equipment. The skill of the archer is
also important but if the bow is not properly tuned, the archer's skill is
reduced. Tuning can be achieved in a short period of time by following
these steps carefully. The archer that puts the most time and effort into
equipment will have the most success.
There are several steps to tuning a recurve bow. Always set the brace
height as specified by the manufacturer before you set your nock point.
Changing the brace height will nearly always affect the proper nock point.
Use the chart at the end of this document to record the brace height and
always verify when reassembling your bow.
SECTION 1: Setting the plunger to proper depth by removing the spring
NOTE: This step is the same for left (pull bowstring with left hand) and right
hand (pull bowstring with right hand) archers:

1A:

1B:

1C:

1D:

The PLUNGER has a SPRING to allow horizontal

movement of the arrow. When tuned
properly, the PLUNGER will prevent the arrow
from moving in past center in case of a bad
shot.
Remove the SPRING from the PLUNGER.

Needed to make the plunger STIFF. (insert in the plunger

in place of the spring)

Cut a wooden MATCH or piece of WIRE

about 3/4" long, to use as an insert to
make the PLUNGER stiff. The STIFF
PLUNGER will help tune the arrow shaft.

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1E: INSTALL/ADJUST PLUNGER

INSTALL A STIFF PLUNGER

Remove the center stabilizer and remove the sight if
necessary.
Put the bow in a stand or lean the tip of the bow forward
against a wall to allow a clear view of the alignment of
string and riser/limbs. Do not lean to a side that causes
the limb(s) to distort.
The string should be in the center of the limbs.

1F: ADJUST STIFF PLUNGER

Re-install the stabilizer and sight if removed in step

1E.
Move the stiff plunger in or out so that the bare shaft
is directly in the center of the bow.
The string should be in the center of the arrow for this
step.
The bow is ready to shoot..

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SECTION 2:

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PAPER TUNE SETUP

2A: This step will:

(i) Determine is the nock point is correct. (this is a correctable item)
(ii) Determine if the arrows are stiff or weak (this may or may not be
correctable

WHY A BARE SHAFT? If shot at short distance through paper into a butt, a
bare shaft will reveal improper thrust effects since aerodynamics will not
have time to straighten out the flight of the arrow. It will literally fly
sideways through the paper creating a tell-tale pattern if the tune is bad.
Fletching would straighten out the arrow's flight and make this first stage of
tuning more difficult.
The TUNING FRAME consists of a frame to hold a
sheet/piece of paper at the proper height in front of the
target matt. You will need at least one arrow with no
fletchings (aka bare shaft). It is better to have a number
of bare shafts so that you can compare them and make
sure they all behave the same before beginning this stage
of the process. The paper can be tissue, newspaper,
paper bag or butcher paper as long as it is large enough to
fit the frame and will tear cleanly as arrows pass through.

versus

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2B: METHOD
The nock point must be set so the thrust of the bowstring pushes the
arrow neither up nor down but rather straight forward. Stand 5 to 6
meters from the tuning frame.
The target matt should be 1 to 2 meters behind the frame to allow the bare
shaft to pass completely through and clear the paper before it hits the
target matt. Shoot the bare shaft though the paper about shoulder height
to allow for a parallel flight. The shape of the tear in the paper will
indicate the current tune of the bow. Your paper tear may have both a
vertical tear and a horizontal tear component.
We will adjust for the vertical tear first.

SECTION 3: SETTING THE NOCK POINT (to

control the vertical tear)

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3A: Bare Shaft Tears Paper UP

TEAR is UP. The arrow flies with
the nose down and the tail high.
The point of the bare shaft went
through the paper low and the
nock went through high. The
NOCK POINT is too high. Move the
NOCK POINT lower down the bow
string.

3B: Bare Shaft Tears Paper DOWN

TEAR is DOWN. The arrow flies
with the nose high and the tail
low. The point of the bare shaft
went through the paper high and
the nock went through low. The
NOCK Point is too low. Move the
NOCK POINT higher up the bow
string.

Verify your brace height, and then adjust the NOCK POINT until the tear is
neither up nor down.
Shoot as many bare shafts as necessary to be sure of the consistency of your
results.
Each step in this process should be completed before beginning the next
step.

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3C: Identifying a LEFT Tear (What is a paper tear to the left?)

The point of the bare shaft went in to the right.
The nock tears the paper to the left (leans to
the left of the point). In this picture the nock is
at the left end, the point made the hole on the
right end.
3D: Identifying a RIGHT Tear (What is a paper tear to the right)
The point of the bare shaft went in to the left.
The nock tears the paper to the right (leans to
the right of the point). In this picture the point
made the hole on the left and the nock is on the
right end.

The next section will lead you through adjusting your bow for
any horizontal tear. If you have no horizontal tear then just
read through Section 4 and proceed to Section 5.
SECTION 4:

HORIZONTAL TEAR

NOTE: the following steps are different for right and left hand archers.
Follow the steps that correspond to the hand you use to pull the
bowstring. A poor release will cause the shaft to act stiffer and
introduce a larger tear. You should make several shots and get similar
results on each shot to insure "true" readings.
4A: FOR Right-Hand Archers
The figure 3 (to the left) shows a LEFT TEAR.
The arrow point is to the RIGHT in the picture and the nock
is to the left end of the tear. The shaft is too weak. If the
tear is 1 to 3 inches wide, the shaft can be stiffened by
decreasing the weight in the point or decreasing bow
strength. If the tear is greater than 3 inches, the shaft is too
weak to compensate for. Select a stiffer shaft.
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The figure 4 shows a RIGHT TEAR.

The arrow point is to the left and the nock is to the right
end of the tear. The shaft is too stiff. If the tear is 1 to 3
inches wide, the shaft can be weakened by increasing the
weight in the point or by increasing bow weight. If the tear
is greater than 3 inches, the shaft is too stiff to compensate
for. Select a weaker shaft.
A tear less than 1 inch, right or left, is okay.
A single hole is ideal.

4B: FOR Left-Hand Archers

The figure 3 (to the left) shows a LEFT TEAR. The arrow
point is to the right and the nock end is to the left in the
tear.
The shaft is too stiff. If the tear is 1 to 3 inches, the shaft
can be weakened by increasing the weight in the point or by
increasing bow weight. If the tear is greater than 3 inches,
the shaft is too stiff to compensate for. Select a weaker
shaft.
The figure 4 shows a RIGHT TEAR. The arrow point is to the
left and the nock is to the right end of the tear.
The shaft is too weak. If the tear is 1 to 3 inches, the shaft
can be stiffened by decreasing the weight in the point or
decreasing bow strength. If the tear is greater than 3
inches, the shaft is too weak to compensate for. Select a
stiffer shaft.
A tear less than 1 inch, right or left, is okay.
A single hole is ideal.

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SECTION 5.

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PLUNGER TUNING - SPRING TENSION

5A. Plunger Tuning For the Right-hand Archer

First adjust your sight.
per step 1F..

The STIFF PLUNGER is in the center of the bow as

Shoot fletched arrows from 18 meters. Shoot the best group possible in the
center of the target.
Adjust the sight if necessary until your grouping is centered on the target.
Remove STIFF PLUNGER and install PLUNGER WITH SPRING to a medium
tension setting.
Adjust the PLUNGER until the right edge of the tip of the
arrow shaft is in line with the left side of the bow
string..
Do not use the right edge of the arrow point but rather
the right edge at the end of the arrow shaft.
Shoot fletched arrows from 18 meters but DO NOT ADJUST
THE SIGHT.
Correct the flight of the arrow by adjusting the tension of
the SPRING in the PLUNGER. Shoot the arrows in the
same target and shoot the best group possible.
If the arrows group to the left of the center, weaken the
SPRING (Counter-ClockWise).
If the arrows are to the right of center, stiffen the SPRING
(ClockWise). Adjust the SPRING until the group is in the
center of the target.
The group should be the same as the group you shot using
the STIFF PLUNGER/CENTER SHOT METHOD.
For more exact tuning, go to SECTION 6.
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5B: Plunger Tuning For the Left Hand Archer

First adjust your sight.
per step 1F..

The STIFF PLUNGER is in the center of the bow as

Shoot fletched arrows from 18 meters. Shoot the best group possible in the
center of the target. Adjust the sight if necessary until your grouping is
centered on the target.
Remove STIFF PLUNGER and install PLUNGER WITH SPRING to a medium
tension setting.

Adjust the PLUNGER until the left edge of tip of the arrow
shaft is in line with the right side of the string. Do not use
the left edge of the point of the arrow but rather use the
left edge of the END of the shaft.
Shoot fletched arrows from 18 meters but DO NOT ADJUST
THE SIGHT.
Correct the flight of the arrow by adjusting the tension of
the SPRING in the PLUNGER. Shoot the arrows in the same
target and shoot the best group possible.
If the arrows group to the right of center, weaken the
SPRING (Counter-ClockWise). If the arrows are to the left
of center, stiffen the SPRING (ClockWise). Adjust the
SPRING until the group is in the center of the target.
This group should be the same as the group you shot using
the STIFF PLUNGER/CENTER SHOT METHOD.
For more exact tuning, go to SECTION 6.

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SECTION 6:

THE BEGINNING OF FINE TUNING

6A: DROP METHOD - YOU MAY NEED TO REPEAT THIS SECTION MORE THAN
ONCE TO ACHIEVE TUNE
Pick a mark near the top of the
target matt. Shoot from 10 meters
and adjust the sight if necessary.
If you are not sure of your ability to
release each arrow uniformly then
you should shoot an end of arrows at
each distance to create a grouping
each time. You are trying to create a
reliable pattern.
Shoot each end then move back 5
meters at a time and continue to
shoot at the same mark at the top of
the target. Do not adjust the sight!
The arrows should impact lower down
the target as you move back.
Move back as far as possible without
the arrow passing beneath the target
matt. This is approximately 40 to 50
meters for most bows.
If the arrows drift to either right or
left of center as you move back,
more tuning is required. Go to
SECTION 7.

If the arrows fall in a straight line, the tune is good.

Step 8 may not be necessary but read over it anyway.

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6B.

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PATTERN ANALYSIS OF THE FALLING GROUPS

FOR LEFT-HAND
ARCHERS

FOR RIGHT-HAND
ARCHERS

If the arrows fall to

the left side of
center, stiffen the
SPRING (CW) until
the arrows are in
the center line.

If the arrows fall to

the left side of
center, weaken the
SPRING (CCW) until
the arrows are in
the center line.

If the arrows fall to

the right side of
center, weaken the
SPRING (CCW) until
the arrows are in
the center line.

If the arrows fall to

the right side of
center, stiffen the
SPRING (CW) until
the arrows are in
the center line.

NOTE:
Approximately 1/4 turn (90 degrees) of the
spring/plunger will move the arrows 4
inches at 40 meters.

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SECTION 7: TUNING FOR PERFECTION

This is the beginning of "true" fine tuning. The fine tuning can be done
during normal practice but requires consistency to be effective.
Choose a long distance: 60/70 meters for women, 70/90 meters for men.
Shoot 6 ends of 6 arrows. Make a chart of the groups using either a drawing
of the target or else using a tool such as Target Plot on a Palm Pilot.

Stiffen the plunger (CW) for about 1/2 turn. Shoot another 6 ends of 6
arrows. Make a new chart for this group and mark on it ONE, 1/2 turn.
Again, stiffen the PLUNGER another 1/2 turn, shoot, and chart, repeat and
each time mark how many 1/2 turns.
Continue this procedure until the groups start to open up. Be sure to
record the number of 1/2 turns on each chart.
Turn the plunger back to the beginning of this exercise. Weaken the
PLUNGER by 1/2 turn (CCW) and shoot 6 ends of 6 arrows. Chart the groups
and the 1/2 turns. Repeat the exercise as before until the groups begin to
open up.
Review all the charts and find the best group. Adjust the PLUNGER to the
turns for that chart. This should be the best tune.
If there is time and patience on your part, repeat the above exercise using
1/4 and 1/8 turns.
Excellence takes persistence!
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SECTION 8:

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MAKING A BASELINE RECORD

Figure 1:

Go to 18 meters and shoot a group

in the center of the target. Now
shoot a bare shaft (or several) and
note where it/they hit on the
target in relation to the group.
For example, see the Figure 1 to
the right. The fine tuning has
found a better set-up. Do not be
concerned if the bare shaft did not
group with the fletched arrows.
NOTE: It is important to record
where the bare shaft hits in
relation to the group. Record this
in Figure 2 for later use.

Figure 2:

If an emergency arises where the

bow needs to be re-tuned quickly,
set the nock point, then adjust the
spring tension until the bare shaft
hits relative to where the group is,
as you recorded using figure 2.

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SECTION 9:

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INDEX YOUR NOCKS

How do you know if the arrow's vanes are touching

the arrow rest or a part of the shelf when you
shoot? Put some red lipstick on the support arm of
the arrow rest. See figure 1 to the right. Shoot
some arrows and if the vanes have red on them,
they are making contact. If there is some lipstick
on the vanes, rotate the nock, shoot, rotate again,
until there isn't any lipstick on the vanes.

Orienting nocks using the middle of the valley between fletch vanes
may not be the best clearance for your arrows. You want to find the
midpoint away from the rest in both directions in order to determine
maximum clearance. Turn the nock and shoot until the vane begins to
rub. Make a mark on the shaft directly opposite the mold mark on the
nock. See figure 2. This is where the rub starts for that particular
vane.

Turn the nock in the opposite direction and repeat the above procedure
until the next vane begins to rub. Make another mark opposite the
mold mark on the nock. These two marks indicate where the two vanes
rub the bow. Turn the nock until the mold mark is directly in between
these two marks.

This should be the point of maximum clearance. Mark every arrow the
same (see figure 3.)

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11. RECORD IMPORTANT INFORMATION

DATE:
Outdoor
Riser (brand, height)
Limbs(brand,wt &
length)

Indoor

Notes

Upper Tiller (#3)

Brace Height (#2)

Lower tiller (#4)

Length of string
Type and number of
strands
Nock point
Sight used
Arrow brand and size
Arrow length
Type of point and
weight
Type of nock
Type, Color, size of
fletching
Plunger
Distance from
Nockpoint to Kisser
Note from the author:
This method has been used for many years by some of the top archers. There
are quicker methods but I believe this is the most complete. This method
tunes and gives an idea of how the equipment works. Rick Stonebraker.

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Shortcut Text
Internet Address
http://www.texasarchery.org file:///C:/Webpages/TSAA/index.htm
Target Plot on a Palm Pilot http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/TargetPlot/TargetPlo

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