VENTILATED

IMPROVED
PIT LATRINE
Introduction
The ventilated improved pit V.I.P latrine offers improved sanitation by eliminating flies and
smell, through air circulation. The addition of a chimney draws air currents into the structure
and through squat hole. Odours rise through the chimney and disperse. The structure of the
toilet means that any flies attracted to the pit through the squat hole will try to escape by
heading towards the strongest light source, which comes from the chimney. The flies exit is
blocked by a wire mesh so the flies eventually die and fall back into the pit. The spiral
structure prevents too much light entering the toilet while allowing a free flow of air.
Hygiene is obviously an important issue
wherever the toilet is located but more so
where there are many users. Faecalborne diseases take more lives and
create more suffering than war or natural
disaster, but do attract as much media
coverage. Due to the number of fatalities,
it is important to consider hygiene and
cleanliness. A dirty latrine is not only
unpleasant to use, especially bare foot,
but smells and attract flies, bringing more
diseases. The number of flies can be
reduced by using a ventilated improved
pit latrine.
If the latrine is well designed then there
should be less concern for disease as the
latrine will be easy to clean, (clean-able
floor and surfaces), as well as including a
sanitary plate (SanPlat) or pour-flush
system. The solution, to better use of
latrines is simple, and depends on the
three factors of sanitation, water supply
and hygiene education.
There are many types of latrine, which
already exist, constructed in a variety of
ways from different materials. Depending
upon the environment and the number of
users, the design of a latrine is altered to
suit the needs of the users.

Figure 1: A ventilated improved pit -latrine

There are many questions that can be

asked before constructing a latrine, below are some you may want to think about:

What type should be built? Where is it being built and who is going to use it?
Private or community?
How complicated is it to build or use? What materials and labour are needed? Are
they on location or do specialists need to be contacted?
What are the problems related to the different types of latrines? As discussed
hygiene is the biggest issue. What other problems may arise sanitation, location,

Ventilated improved pit latrines

Practical Action

Below are the main types of latrines:

Traditional pit latrines Well known in Africa, Asia and Latin America. A simple pit
covered with logs. Not usually roofed, sometimes they have no walls. Cost zero, no
specialist skills
SanPlat latrines like the traditional latrine but with a SanPlat, slightly elevated for
ease of use in the dark. Can be located close to house with fitted lid to prevent smell
and flies.
Conventional improved pit latrines Again similar to the traditional latrine, but built
with more solid materials, i.e. bricks, with walls and a roof. Putting hot ashes in the
latrine can reduce smell and flies.
VIP latrines Consisting or the normal pit but with a screened vent pipe fitted. Wind
ideally blows over the vent pipe.
Pour-flush latrines Common in southern Asia. Water seal fitted to drop hole,
meaning no smell and no flies. Water is poured into the water seal to flush the toilet.
Problems could be the water supply and fitting the seal.
Compost Latrines - The idea of this is to build a permanent latrine with removable
pits, to use the contents for fertiliser. 60 litres per person per year. Shallow
excavation, but high cost, due to the double pit lining.

This technical brief concentrates on the Ventilated Improved Pit Latrine

Construction
The VIP Latrine can be built from different materials. These should be chosen according to
availability and cost of materials, skills available, and soil type. If the soil of the ground is
very loose, it is recommended to use a lighter materials for the walls. The different materials
that can be used require alternative methods of construction. In all cases, the slab is built
the same and a chimney higher than the roof is constructed.
This technical brief describes the construction of a mortared brick design because it is the
most popular. The main materials for this latrine are; sand, gravel, bricks, bags of cement,
wire mesh, chicken wire, water.
Tools needed
Tape measure, shovels, masonry trowels, wooden floats, buckets, karias,
pliers, pombo, panga or old chisel and hammer, plastic sheeting, woven
plastic sugar sacks, sisal twine, large canvas sewing needles.
Sighting
Choose firm soil with good drainage. It should be made in a convenient
location, at least 40 meters away from any springs, streams or rivers. Note the
direction of prevailing winds. Latrines should be placed downwind of the
home or school. The doorway of the VIP latrine should face the wind.
Excavation
Mark a circle in the ground using 2 sticks and a string as shown. For a family latrine, the
circle should be 1.5 metres (5 feet) across, so the string should be 75 cm long between the
two sticks. For a school or community latrine, the diameter should be 1.8 metres across, so
the string should mark a radius of 90-cm (3 feet)
If the ground is quite rocky and very stable during rains, then the brick lining may be
eliminated. In such cases reduce the radius (the length of the string) by 15cm.
Do not make the hole too wide, you can endanger the occupants.

Ventilated improved pit latrines

Practical Action

Dig the hole 3 meters, (10 feet) deep. Be careful to keep the walls straight.
Foundation

Begin laying and mortaring courses of bricks at the

bottom of the pit. Alternate vertical joints in the
bricks. Do not lay bricks or plaster over the floor of
the pit, and do not mortar vertical joints.
Continue building up the wall of the pit.
When you reach the top layer, dig out a little wider
and lay the last row of bricks perpendicular, as
shown. Mortar the vertical joints in this row.

Most soils considerably soften during the rainy season. Due

to its weight, a brick superstructure is in danger of
collapsing without a strong foundation as described here.
The alternative is to build a light superstructure. Very light
superstructures, such as these, made from thin wattle and
daub, with grass roofs, should not require such a strong
foundation. Consult with a good carpenter or mason on
how to assure a strong and suitable foundation that takes
into account the soil type and the materials used in building.
In any case, the top layer of bricks described here should
be laid and the top half of the pit should be plastered with
mortar.
Slab

For a 1.2m (4ft) diameter hole, make a 2.15m (7ft)

diameter slab.
For a 1.5m (5ft) diameter hole, make a 2.4m (8ft)
diameter slab.
This gives a stable 45 cm overlap to the hole.

The un-mortared spaces in

the vertical joints allows the
contents to seep into the
soil

Figure 2: Lining the pit

Splash water on the mortar
after it has set and keep it
damp for one week

Next to the latrine, dig a hole in which to cast the slab. It

should have a diameter, which is 90-cm larger than the
mortared latrine pit, and a depth of 7.5cm. The floor should
be very smooth.

Figure 3: dressing the top of the pit

Diameter of mortared latrine pit + 90 cm

Figure 4: Digging a flat-bottomed

hole as a template for the mould

If the soil is to rocky to make a smooth floor, in the shallow hole, then build a
form using lumber, or place a sheet of polythene plastic within a circle of
bricks.

Ventilated improved pit latrines

Practical Action

Diameter of mortared
Latrine pit + 90 cm

Diameter of mortared latrine hole + 90 cm

Figure 5: An alternative method of moulding using forms

Carve two forms (from either wood or brick) as shown. They should be at
least 7.5 cm thick. They will be used to cast the squat hole and the chimney
hole in the slab. The chimney form can either be round or square.

15cm
15cm

15cm

7.5cm

27.5cm

7.5cm

12.5cm
Figure 6: Mould inserts

Figure 7: The weld mesh

needs to be cut to size

To add strength to the floor slab,

weld mesh is set into the centre of
the concrete slab. You need to
cut and tie together pieces of 2
weld mesh (or BRC weld mesh) to
fit inside the shallow hole. Where
the formers are positioned, for the
chimney and squat hole, you need
to remove some of the mesh to
leave room for the formers to be
released. Mark the ground where
the forms go, and leave them in
place.

Then removing the wire mesh

carefully and leaving the forms in
place, you should be able to cast
a reinforced concrete slab.
Mix enough concrete to fill the
hole in the proportions; 1 part
cement; 2 parts sand; 4 parts
gravel. Add just enough water to
shovel the concrete. With the squat and chimney hole form in place, pour
about one third of the concrete into the smooth, shallow hole. Using the

Figure 8: The weld mesh is placed onto the

concrete

Ventilated improved pit latrines

pimbo, pound down a layer 2.5 to 3cm

thick. Use a clean nail to check the
thickness. Insert it, then remove it and
measure the cement marks.

Practical Action

A pimbo

Then lay the cut wire mesh on top of the

concrete. Check to see that the hole
forms are still in their proper places.
Adjust if necessary so that the weld mesh
wires do not quite touch the forms. Then
Figure 10: The mesh is covered with more
pour a second layer of concrete 4.5 5cm
concrete
thick, onto the reinforcement. Trowel it
flat. After it has set, splash water on the
concrete and cover it with plastic
sheeting. Keep it damp and covered with
plastic for 7 days. After the concrete has
cured for 7 days, roll the slab over to the latrine pit. Mortar the bricks and lay
the slab on top.
Walls
Lay down the first course of bricks very
carefully. Then mortar underneath and
between the bricks.
Alternate the vertical joints of courses of bricks
and continue up to 2 meters (6.5 ft) high.
Mortar in place the flyscreen just below the
foremost course of bricks on the chimney. The
chimney should be two bricks higher than the

Figure 11: A spiral wall

top of the roof.

If you have chosen a roof of corrugated iron,
tiles or a concrete slab, then lay bricks higher
toward the chimney to support the slant of the
roof.
Plaster over the inside wall to encourage
reflecting light. If desired, plaster the outside
wall as well.

Figure 12: A square wall

Roof
Coned Roof
Measure the top of the wall at the widest part.
Draw a circle in the ground that has the same
diameter. Cut 5 triangles like the one below
from wire mesh. Tie them together, using 16
gauge binding wire, so that they fit in the

Figure 13: constructing a cone

from wire mesh for a
ferrocement roof

Ventilated improved pit latrines

Practical Action

circle. Overlap the sides by 30cm. When the 5 are tied together, measure and
cut the 6th triangle, including overlap. Tie it in place. Wrap 1 or 2 layers of
chicken wire onto the wire mesh and bind them tightly.
Turn the reinforcement upside down and sew plastic sugar sacks onto the
inside. Use sisal twine, and sew stitches 10 15 cm in length, starting at the
rim. Then place the roof reinforcement on top of the wall.
Measuring very carefully mix a batch of 1:3 (cement, sand) plaster. It should
not be too wet. Trowel on a layer of plaster, pushing it lightly into the chicken
wire. Once the plaster has set, throw water onto the roof and then cover with
plastic. Puts on a second coat of plaster the next day and trowel it smooth. It
is essential that all wires be covered with plaster. Smooth the edges of the
roof to make an attractive bond with the wall.
Again cover with plastic once the plaster has set. Keep the plaster damp for 3
to 7 days. In the afternoon of the same day cut the twine and remove the
sugar sacks from inside the roof. Throw a thin layer of 1:3 (cement, sand)
plaster onto the ceiling. Cover all of the reinforcement wires. This ensures a
strong and durable roof.
Concrete Slab
The concrete slab is made in a similar way to the slab base. You need to build
up bricks higher towards the chimney to create a slant for the roof, for
drainage.
You may be able to use the same hole you created for the slab base, but in
some cases you may need to dig a new one. The slab for the roof need only
be 2.5 cm thick, but you need to allow
for an overhang in the diameter. This
is why you could use the base hole to
construct your roof.
Once you have created the hole you
will need to put some other moulds in
for the space where the chimney will
be located. Once you have checked
the measurements and everything is
set out correctly, complete the slab in
the same way as the base. You still
need to reinforce the slab but this
time only with chicken wire.

Figure 14: casting a flat roof from

concrete

Tiled and corrugated roofs

The corrugated roof is probably the easiest to construct and will last a long time, along with
the tiles. Like the concrete slab you will need to build the bricks up on the chimney side to
create a slant for drainage.
You will need some support pieces of wood to hold the tiles or corrugated sheet. The length
of theses will vary depending on your structure, but it is again important to note you will need
to allow for an overhang. When you have your beams fixed then you can begin to lay your
sheet or your tiles.
You must make sure that they are both fixed down correctly using suitable fixings depending
on your structure. The corrugated sheets need have good overlaps between them, as do the
tiles. You dont want the roof to leak. Depending on your tiles or corrugated iron you may
need to seal them as required.

Ventilated improved pit latrines

Practical Action

Finishing the roof

Once the roof is complete you are ready for finishing
For the cone roof and the concrete slab roof, keep the roof damp for about a week. Splash
water on it and keep covered with plastic. When the latrine has dried you can paint if desired.
For the corrugated and tiled roofs, there may be gaps between the wall and the roof, which
may be filled with mortar. This is to stop the light getting in and so deterring flies from coming
up the latrine
Paint the inside of the wall white to make it very easy to see when inside.

References and further reading

Esrey S Et al. Ecological Sanitation. Sida, Stockholm, 1998

Reed R.A. Sustainable Sewerage. Intermediate Technology Publications, London.
1995
Brandberg B. Latrine Building: A handbook for implementation of the SanPlat
system. Intermediate Technology Publications, London. 1997
Laver S. Blair Latrines Builders Instruction Manual. Blair Research Laboratory.
Ryan B.A Et al. Ventilated Improved Pit Latrines: Vent Pipe Design Guidelines. The
World Bank, Washington.1983
Morgan P.R Et al. Ventilated Improved Pit Latrines: Recent Developments in
Zimbabwe. The World Bank, Washington, 1982
Duncan Mara, D. The Design of Ventilated Improved Pit Latrines. The World Bank,
Washington, 1984.
Morgan P. Rural Water Supply and Sanitation: A Text From Zimbabwes Blair
Research Laboratory, MacMillan Publishers, 1990
This Technical Brief by Simon Farmer is based on the Ventilated Improved Pit Latrine
Construction Manual produced by UNICEF Technology Support Section, Kenya