Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Industrial engineering
It deals with the creation and management of systems that integrate people, materials,
information and energy in productive ways. It draws up on the principles and methods of
engineering analysis and synthesis, as well as mathematics, physical and social sciences.
This department works to eliminate waste of time, money, material, energy, and other
resources.
Concepts of industrial engineering
This term industrial engineering is composed of two words which gives the basic concept of
industrial engineering (I.E).
Industrial means related to industry, which means a process of production or a complete
process of converting input resources into useful products or services (depending upon
nature of industry).
Conversion
Input resources

technique/production or

Engineering may be defined as

processing equipment

output /product
the

profession

in

which

knowledge of mathematical, physical, and social sciences obtained by experience and

practice is utilized economically for the conversion of materials into useful products for the
benefit of mankind.
Mainly industrial engineering department perform the following activities in garment
industry:

Work study
Garment layout
Target setting
Line balancing

1. Work study
1.1

Objective

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Find the best way of doing a work /to improve efficiency using fewer resources in
an activity and yet getting the same result or using the same resource to get better
result with lesser cost than the existing one.

To standardized the best method

In the absence of work standards specifying the daily output in the case of each
worker and an identifiable relationship output and wages may become difficult.

Economy to human effort and reduction of fatigue/ to ensure reduce the number of
labor on every job.

1.2 Definitions
It is combination of several techniques which can be applied to all kinds of efficiency
problems, including labor productivity problems.
Work study is concerned with discovering the best ways of doing jobs and with
establishing standards based up on such work. It includes analytic investigation of
the methods, conditions and effectiveness of industrial work, and thereby the
determination of the ways in which human efforts may most economically be applied.
The important techniques for work study are: method study
time study and work measurement
motion and fatigue study
1.3. Method study
Method study is the systematic study of methods, recording and critical
examination of existing and proposed ways of doing work in order to develop and
apply easier and more effective methods and reduce costs.
The basic steps and method studies are: selection of the job to be studied
Recording of the details of the job and the methods employed to perform it.
Critical examination
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Identification and development of possible improvement

Development of the improve method

1.3.1. Selection
Not all industrial activities need to be selected for the method study. Select the
most important activity which improved could result in substantial benefits.
Some example of good selection in garment field could be:

Embroidery activities
Spreading: - the nature of the activity is highly repetitive. Efficiency of

spreader has great influence on the production of garment industry.

Cutting: - the work is highly repetitive and fatigue, it also causes

machine down time.

Sewing: - the work needs relatively a high skilled labor and it requires
large number of workers. The production of garment unit is highly

influenced by sewing section.

Finishing activities
1.3.2. Recording:Record all the relevant facts of the present or proposed method by observation
or analysis.
Recording is a key activities and many activity and many sophisticated
techniques have been developed for it. Various charts are used to record the
activities precisely, continently and for understanding and analysis.
1.3.3. Critical examination
Critical examination is the motive force to develop a new method within the
limits. The success of method study lies in making a critical examination.
The questions to be asked are: what, why, how, when, where and who. The
governing factors are purpose, means, sequence, place and person
The questions to be asked can be divided into three categories:
Primary questions: deals with facts and reasons
Secondary questions: deals with finding out the alternatives

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Final questions: deals with the implication of different alternatives, and
select few alternatives for development
Primary questions
Purpose
place

sequence

What is actually done?

Why is the activity necessary?

Eliminate unnecessary

Where is it being done?

Why is it done at that

Combine wherever possible

particular place?

operation

parts of the job.

or rearrange sequence of

When is it done?
Why is it done at that
particular time?

means

How is it being done?

Why is it done in that

Simplify the operation

particular way?
Secondary question are asked in the same manner at above with suitable
changes/modification to determine the possible alternatives of place, sequence,
persons and/or means- in order to improve the existing method.
Final questions deals similarly with the alternative ways of doing the work obtained
from secondary questions.
Develop the most practical, economical and effective method considering all the
circumstances.
Define the new method
Install the new method as standard practice
Maintain the standard practice by regular /routine checks.
1.3.6. Develop the improved method
Practically reviews the new method to test its viability in the change circumstances.
Method study will provide the maximum benefit when it is conducted at the
planning stage itself i.e. before the plant or machinery is installed.
I.4.

Motion study.

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Method study was explained in detail which deals with large operation. In contrast
to this micro motion study deals with the operations of the following nature.

The

Operation short in cycle.

Highly repetitive( thousands of time in short duration )
Involve quick hand motion.
best examples of operation suited for micro motion study in garment industry

is; sewing, it is carried out manually, greatly depending on man power. This means
that difference in motion level of operators will directly affect the time value.
During manual work the human movements divides in to the following elements
Search
Search begins when the eye or hands begins to hunt for the object, and ends
when the desired object has been located
Select
Select refers to the choice of an object from several.

Grasp
It refers hold of an object closing the fingers around it preparatory to picking it
up.
Grasp begins when the hand or fingers first make contact with the object, and
ends when the hand has obtained control of it.
Transport load
It refers to letting go off the object and it begins when the object starts to leave
the hand and ends when the object has been completely separated from the hand
or fingers.
Position
Put the object in the appropriate place.
Assemble
Put together/ combine the respective objects
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Disassemble
Separate the objects which are assembled before
Inspect
Check the quality of the object as per the specification.
Release load
It refers to lifting of an object. It begins when the object starts to leave the hand
and ends when the object has been completely separated from hand or fingers.
Transport empty
It refers to moving the empty hand in reaching for an object. It is assumed that
the hand moves without resistance to wards or away from the object.
Avoidable delay
It is the time consumed by the worker due to his/her carelessness and other
factors.
Unavoidable delay
It is the ideal time which is caused due to the nature of work itself
Each and every human activity should be analyzed according to the above
elements

1.4.1. Principles of motion economy

A worker while carrying out a task uses a number of motions or movements of
body parts.
A careful examination of these motions may bring out the following:

Unnecessary movements
A certain motions can be combined/ modified by changing their sequence
Certain motion can be simplified by changing the work place lay out.
Certain motions can be carried out more efficiently by other parts of the
body. The study of an operation in terms of individual motion of worker

performing the operation is known as motion analysis.

Fatigue can be reduced by following the principle of motion economy.

Motion economy and fatigue reduction can be grouped under three categories.
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Use of human body.
Arrangement of work place.
Design of tools and equipments.
1.4.1.1. Use of human body
The two hands should being and complete their movements at the same
time.
The two hands should not be idle at the same time except during period
of rest
Motion of the arms should be symmetrical and opposite directions and
should be made simultaneously.
Hand and body motions should be made at the lost classification at
which it is possible to do the work satisfactorily. General classifications
of hand motions are as follows:- Finger motions (lowest level)
- Finger+ wrist
- Finger +wrist +forearm
- Finger +wrist +forearm +upper arm
- Finger +wrist +forearm +upper arm +shoulder (highest level)
Smooth continuous motions of the hands are preferable to zigzag
motions or straight line motions involving sudden and sharp changes in
direction.
Rhythm is essential to the automatic performance of repetitive
operations. The work should be arranged to permit easy and natural
rhythm whenever possible.
Work should be arranged so that eye movements are confined to
comfortable without the need for frequent changes of focus.

1.4.1.2. Arrangement of work place.

Definite and fixed places should be provided for all tools and materials for
habit formation.
Tools and materials should be repositioned to reduce searching.
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Gravity feed bins and containers should be used to deliver the materials
and as close to the point of use as possible.
Tools, materials and controls should be located within the maximum
working area and as near to the worker as possible to allow hand motions of
lower classification and eye movements without frequent change of focus.
Materials and tools should be arranged to permit the best sequence of
motions.
Drop deliveries of or ejectors should be used whenever possible so that the
worker does not have to use his hands to dispose of the finished work.
Provision should be made for adequate lighting and a chair of the type and
height to permit good posture.
The height of the work place and seat should be arranged to allow
alternative sitting and standing.
The color of the work place should contrast with that of the work to reduce
eye fatigue.
1.4.1.3. Design of tools and equipments
The hand should be relived of the work of holding the work piece by suitable
devices, like passing materials.
Two or more tools should be combined where ever possible

1.4.2 Consideration of allowance (idle) in time study

Personal allowance
Personal need
Fatigue allowance
Delay allowance
Material defect
Power interruption.

1.5. Time study and work measurement

Time study is defined as a work measurement techniques designed to establish the
time for a qualified worker to carry out specified elements under specified conditions
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

at a defined rate of working recoded by direct observations of the times, using time
measuring device and the rating for individual elements. The method used for
timing will depend on the volume and frequency of the task, the cycle time of the
operation and the cost of timing; stopwatch should be used to measure each
element. The study requires splitting up of a job into a number of parts to know how
long it takes each of the different workers engaged there to perform it. This will help
not only in fixing responsibility in respect of each part of the job, but also in
determining standard timing for different parts of the job.
The processing time exists simply because the process requires tasks and motion. To
put it in a different way, the working method and the number of work component s
are closely related to the net processing time. The time study begins by measuring
the number of seconds required to lift, sew and place something .it then proceeds to
making improvements based on the time values, and ends by defining the differences
in the time values caused by the individual differences of the worker,

Purpose of time study

To understand the production capacity of the factory ,to draw up plans for an
appropriate target output ,suitable range of divided labor and optimum
production (scheduling ,personnel planning or equipment planning )
To investigate the level of individual skill.
To determine the time value for each work component under the motion study,
which support improvements and standardization.
For use as a standard in evaluating the operations.
To obtain an evaluation standard for order receiving planning, using the time
study as the basis of the cost estimate and control.
For use as the basis for determining the unit cost of manufacture and the wage
rate.
For use as the basis for introducing a production control system.
Purpose of work measurement
Evaluate a worker performance

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This is done by comparing actual output over a given period of time with the
standard output determined by work measurement.
Plan workforce needs
For any given level of output, work measurement can be used to determine how
much labor input is required.
Determine price or cost of a product
Labor standards, obtained through work measurement, are ingredient of a
costing or pricing system.
In most organizations, the successful pricing of products is crucial for survival.
This activity, in turn, rests on work measurement whenever cost is a basis of
pricing.
To determine available capacity
For a given of level of work force, and equipment availability, work
measurement standards can be used to project available capacity.
Compare work method.
When different methods for a job are being considered, work measurement can
provide the bases for economic comparison of the methods
Facilitate operations scheduling
One of the data inputs to all scheduling systems is time estimate for work
activities. These time estimates are derived from work measurement.
Establish wage incentives
Under wage incentives, workers receive more pay for more output. Underlying
this incentive plan is a time standard which defines 100% output.

1.5.1. SAM (standard allowable minutes) calculation using stop watch)

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

This is the type of study that develop a standard through observation and
analysis of a task using stop watch.
To calculate the SAM, we can use either of following methods- follow the Bin Ran
or GSD(General Sewing Data ) for the predetermined standards. Or prepare 10
garments with the help of expert operators. While them preparing the garments,
chick time using stop watch each operations. While doing this method, initial two
to three garments need to do to practice the operations. From fourth garment
onwards need to check the timing for each operation.
Calculate the average time taken for each operation as the SAM for that
particular operation.
The equipment needed for SAM study can be:1. Stop watch / electronic timer
2. Motion picture camera
3. Electronic data collector and computer
In sewing section the SAM value includes the following operations
A. Pick up and position.
B. Sew
C. Reposition
D. Cut thread
E. Dispose
Example: - Shirt collar attaching operation
Time consumed: - Reading1= a
Average time

( T av )

Normal time

(T n)

Reading 3=c

(a+ b+c )
3

Standard time (SAM) =

Reading 2=b

T av

Tnx

x efficiency
total allowance

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

The efficiency factor is calculated from the performance and target achieved by the
operator, from skill data and the nature of style features and fabric quality.
Total allowance time is the time consumed by the operators during their working
hours. This may vary from 4 -7%

Production per hour=60/SAM

Machine SAM
It is the sum of SAM values of all the operators in that particular style
Manual SAM
It is the sum of SAM values of operations being done by helpers
Total SAM
It is the sum of SAM values of both machine SAM and manual SAM

PRODUCTIVITY
It is nothing but it is simply the ratio of output to the input i.e.
Productivity/shift=60x8/machine SAM
Higher productivity implies that more output is achieved with the same input or the
same output is achieved with less input.
Operation bulletin sheet for jacket

Front
S. No

Oper.
Code

Operation

Back
M/C

SAM

Attachment

TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY INSTITUTE PROJECT (TAI)

Oper.
reqd.

Oper.
allotted

Prodn.
Per
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Hour

S.No

01

Run stitch
neckband

SNL
S

0.68

-----

0.78

88

02

Trim,
&Turn
neckband

manu
al

0.37

------

0 .42

164

03

Press
neckband
for attach

Flat
bed
press

0.40

-----

0.46

149.78

04

Mark and
re cut
neckband
for attach

manu
al

0.52

-----

0.60

114.83

05

Crease and
mark pleats
on front
pnlx3

Flat
bed
press

0.68

--------

0.78

88.33

06

Sew pleats
on front
pnlx3

Norm
al
UBT
SNL
S

0.96

-------

1.10

62.64

07

Mark front
side pnl for
welt pkt
attach

manu
al

0.62

---------

0.71

97.0

Oper.
Code

08

Operation

M/C

Attach pkt bone

and pkt bag at
front

Auto
welt m/c

SAM

Attachmen
t

Oper.
reqd.

oper
Allotted

Compensa
te with
Operator
No.3

Prodn
. Per
Hour

0.64
-----

TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY INSTITUTE PROJECT (TAI)

0.74

93.1

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Remark

Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

09

Turn and tack

pkt bone
vertically at
corners

SNLS

0.84

------

0.97

71.0

10

010

Edge stitch on
pkt mouth

SNLS

0.68

------

0.78

88.33

11

011

Close pkt bag

SNLS

0.84

0.97

71.0

012

Bind pkt bag all

around

SNLS

0.60

binder

0.69

99.5

013

Bind pkt bag at

vertical side

SNLS

0.36

binder

0.41

168.0

014

Finish binding at
corners
SNLS

0.76

------

0.87

79.20

015

Top stitch on
pocket mouth

SNLS

0.86

---

0.99

69.6

016

Attach yoke with

front side pnls

SNLS

0.48

-------

0.55

125

017

Bind front yoke

and front side
panel

SNLS

0.31

Binder

0.36

191.4

018

Top stitch on
front yoke and
front side panel

DNLS

0.36

-----

0.41

168.0

019

Attach front
panel with front
side panel

DNLS

0.68

binder

0.78

88.3

020

Top stitch on
front pnl and
front side pnl

DNLS

0.62

-----

0.71

97.0

021

Tack pkt bag at

front pnl and
front side pnl

SNLS

0.28

-----

0.32

215.3

022

Attach front and

back yoke at
shoulder

SNLS

0.56

------

0.64

107.6

12
13
14

15
16

17

18

19

20

21

22

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

S.No

23

24

25

Oper.
Code

SAM

Attachmen
t

Oper.
reqd.

oper
Allotted

Prodn
. Per
Hour

Operation

M/C

023

Turn and top

stitch on
shoulder

DNLS

0.32

-----

0.37

186.2

024

Stitch on back
yoke all round

SNLS

0.33

-----

0.38

181.3

025

Crease and mark

back pnl for
pleats x10

Flat bed
press

0.80

----

0.92

74.9

026

Sew pleats on
back pnlx10

SNLS

1.90

----

2.18

63.2

027

Attach back
shoulder pnl
with back pnl

SNLS

0.46

----

0.53

130

028

Bind back
shoulder pnl
with back pnl

SNLS

0.31

Binder

0.36

191.4

029

Top stitch on
shoulder pnl and
back pnl jt

DNLS

0.35

-----

0.40

172.2

030

Close sleeve with

the body

DNLS

0.72

28mm
binder

0.83

83.0

31

031

Crease and mark

sleeve cuff for
attach

Flat bed
press

0.78

----

0.90

76.6

32

032

Close cuff

SNLS

0.30

-----

0.34

202.6

033

Attach under
cuff at sleeve
opening

034

26

27

28

29
30

33
34
35

035

SNLS

1.08

-----

1.24

55.6

Press at sleeve
opening

Flat bed
press

0.66

-----

0.76

90.6

Close under cuff

DNLS

-----

0.78

88.3

0.68

at sleeve opening
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Remark

Compensa
te with
Operator
No.21

Compensa
te with
Operator
No.32

Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

36

036

Attach front and

SNLS

0.88

----

1.01

68.2
Compensa
te with
Operator
No.34

back pnls at
shoulder all
around

S.No

37

Oper.
Code

037

Operation

Bind front and

M/C

SNLS

SAM

0.60

back pnls at

Attachmen
t

28mm

Oper.
reqd.

0.69

oper
Allotted

Prodn
. Per
Hour

99.8

Remark

binder

shoulder all
38

038

around
Press at front

Flat bed

and back

press

0.64

---

0.74

93.1

DNLS

0.72

----

0.83

83.0

DNLS

0.68

28mm

0.78

88.3

0.90

binder
28mm

1.03

66.9

1.68

41.0

shoulder all
around
39

039

Top stitch on
front and back at
shoulder all

40
41

040

around
Sew side seam

041

with binding
Bind at center

SNLS

front and bottom

binder

all around
42

042

Top stitch on

DNLS

1.46

----

Compens
ate with
Operator
No.44

center front and

bottom all
around
43

043

Attach neck

SNLS

0.86

----

0.99

69.6

SNLS

0.32

28mm

0.37

186.2

band at neck line

44

044

Bind neck band

with body

Compens
ate with
Operator
No.37

binder

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

45

045

Press at neckline

Flat bed

0.30

----

0.45

153.1

0.72

----

0.83

83.0

----

0.74

93.1

Attachme
nt
------

Oper.
Reqd.
1.06

Oper.
Allotted
1

press
46

046

Top stitch on

DNLS

neck line
47

047

Attach sleeve at
arm hole

S.No.
48

Oper.
Code
048

Operation
O/L sleeve at

Auto
welt m/c

M/C
3T O/L

0.64

SAM
0.92

Prod.
Per
Hour

65.0

armhole
49
50

51

049

Press at arm

050

hole
Bar tack at front

051

Auto
welt m/c

0.64

----

0.74

93.1

0.64

------

0.74

93.1

and back pnls on

Auto
welt m/c

pleats(6+20)
Mark and attach

Manual

------

1.24

55.6

1.08

Remark

Compensa
te with
Operator
No.45

Compensa
te with

buttons on

Operator

frontx3

No.49&50

Note: SAM (standard allowable minute) =SMV (standard minute value)

=NPT (net production time)
Summery
Buyer=ABC
Style=Adult shirt.

Type of M/c

Style desc.=Shirt SBT07

Order quantity=1800pcs

Order No=230806
Required
Quantity

SNLS

24

DNLS

11

3-th O/L

SAM
15.39
6.95

Type of
Attachment

Required quantity Status

Binder

Binder

0.92

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Auto welt m/c

Sleeve setter m/c

0.64
1.42

Round buck press

0.46

Bar tack m/c

2.08

40

27.86

Total
Flat bed press table
and manual
Grand Total

6.85
Productivity/oper/day=13.78

11
51

34.71

Target/day=551.33

Productivity=480/ machine SAM (480/27.86)=17.22

At 80% efficiency=17.22 x0.8=13.78
Target per day=productivity x No of machines
I.e. 13.78 x40=551.33
Target per Hr=target per day/8 i.e. 551.33/8=68.9
1.6. Garment process layout
Lay out addresses various problems in the entire production processes in the factory
ranging from the acceptance of materials to the delivery of finished products.
The layout is considered mainly in the three different phases, such as the
Selection of a site for the factory
Layout of plant
Layout of machinery
This section introduces the planning of layout with particular emphasis on the
layout of sewing machines for a production system introduced. The way in which
machinery, equipment and material are arranged in a working area determines the
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

layout in that area. Even if the initial layout was well thought out, examination of
the utilization of space is very important because of various factors, among them the
following.
New equipment or machinery or a different shape and size of materials are
introduced.
Materials handling equipment that has different space requirements from the
original equipment is acquired.
Moves are made by the management towards advanced technologies such as
the use of robotics, automation, computer networking or flexible manufacturing
systems. To rethink a layout, one has to start by distinguishing among for basic
types.
Layout by fixed position This arrangement is used when the material to process
does not travel around the plant but stays in one place: all the necessary
equipment and machinery are brought to it instead; typical examples are
shipbuilding or aircraft construction.
Layout by process or function here all operations of the same nature are
grouped together for example in the garment industry all the cutting of material is
carried out in one area, all the sewing in another and all the finishing in the
third and so on
Layout by product or line layout- which sometimes popularly referred to as mass
production. In this layout all the necessary machinery and equipment needed to
make a given product are set out in the same area and in the sequence of the
manufacturing process. Typical examples are soft drink bottling, car assembly
operations.
Group layout- in an effort to increase job satisfaction, recently several enterprises
have arranged their operations in a new way, with a group of workers working
together on a given product or on a part of a product having at hand all the
machinery and equipment needed to complete their work. In such cases the
workers distribute the work among them and usually interchange jobs.

1.6.1. The Development of a Layout (sewing)

From the production planning and delivery schedule one can determine the amount
of machinery and equipment that will be needed in the present and the future. The
space requirement for each item of machinery is then calculated. About 17% of the
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

total space taken up by the machinery should be added in a single storey building to
account for passages, and lifts.
A calculation is then made for the space needed for storing work in progress and
various other storage points.
Steps to develop the lay out are: Breakdown the list of operations in the product that we need to set up
(operation bulletin).
Allocate SAM, SMV or NPT (net processing time) for each operation.
To calculate the SAM, we can use either of following methods- follow the Bin Ran or
GSD(General Sewing Data ) for the predetermined standards. Or prepare 10
garments with the help of expert operators. While them preparing the garments,
check time using stop watch each operations. While doing this method, initial two to
three garments need to do to practice the operations. From fourth garment onwards
need to check the timing for each operation and perform the following activities.

Calculate the average time taken for each operation as the SAM for that

particular operation.
List down the required type and number of machineries, folders and

attachments along with the operations.

Calculate the number of machines required per operation based on the output

required per day and SAM per operation.

Prepare the flow chart according the sequence of operations. This can be done
another way, prepare the parts in one section and the assembly in other

sections of the same line.

Allocate the operators to each operation according to their capability of doing

those operations.
Arrange the machines in the lines according to the sequence of operations
mentioned in the layout. While arranging the sewing machines:1. The sewing machines need to consider the easiness of handling of materials
to the operators. If necessary, machineries can be arranged

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2.

3.

4.

5.
6.

7.

8.

9.
10.

Face to face
Side by side
Back to back so that it makes easy to handle the materials.
The important thing that we need to remember is, the layout should be
arranged in such a way that, helpers usage for carrying the bundles,
marking etc. should be avoided/ minimized.
Fix up SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) for all operations in a chart.
Which explains about the operation to be done, machine, needle, threads to
be used, etc?
While the line is setting up with the new style by the supervisor /line in
charge, observe carefully, whether required instructions are passed to the
operator and confirm whether she / he understands the operation
completely.
Once the line is set, check whether all the operators are doing according to
their pre determined SAM or not. If not, check why?
check the sewing and handling methods he /she is following, check whether
the machine is giving any trouble, etc. find out the reason and resolve the
problem with the help of concerned department like maintenance or
production.
Make sure each work station have enough WIP (Working Instruction
Procedure) for the work. Alert the supervisor if there are bottlenecks in the
line.
Make thought process about the simplification of the operations so that the
productivity and quality could improve. And the cost per garment could
reduce.
Collect the details of production from the production clerks, calculate the
performance and efficiency of the operators and the lines.
Display boards for the lines efficiency reports at the end of the lines need to
be place.

1.6.2. Layout of sewing machines

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Controller often thinks that layout changing is the most important point in
improvement. The layout should be taken, however, as only a tangible form of
various improvement plans. In fact the layout changing may directly increase
productivity or the number of pieces produced, or enhances the space efficiency.
1.6.3. Purpose of layout
If the flow production system is put into practice before fully investigating the
layout, productivity will drop, as a matter of course, because of a loss in transfer.
Inadequate layout will increase allowance work not only in transfer but also in
movement of workers, arrangement of products and prearrangement of work. In
addition, improper work arrangement caused by the layout will generate waste in
pick and place movement resulting in the flow production that lacks in the line
compulsiveness (the force of carrying out production both smoothly and regularly).
This means that the purpose of layout is to realize the aim of system for which
the production system is planned in the actual production site based on the layout
of equipment or other conditions In addition, the following principles of layout
shall be fully considered.
Principles of layout

The distance by which the goods (products) move shall be

minimized.
The distance by which the workers move shall be minimized.
The distance by which the information is distributed shall be
minimized
Workability shall be fully considered.
Machines shall be laid out so that the progress of work can be
visually checked at a quick look. (Machines shall be laid out in
an orderly fashion.)
The layout of machines shall be flexible to accept a slight change

1.6.4. Layout procedure

The basic layout procedure in the flow production system is as described below. In
this case,
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1. lot-by-lot production will be performed in the parts (attachments) processes,
2. Piece-by- piece production will be performed in the assembly (main flow) processes,
and layout changing will be carried out centering the assembly processes when
changing the product number to a new one.
3. Preparation of a reduced drawing of the factory
Make a 1/50 or 1/100 scale layout plot. It is helpful to use a copy of an architectural
plan.
4. Make models of the machinery and equipment.

How to investigate the actual layout

Check the actual layout following the procedure similar to the layout plan.
A Prepare a reduced drawing of the factory. Models of machinery and equipment.
Enter facilities, machines and equipment that cannot be moved.
B Prepare process analysis charts for the products that are being produced in the
factory. (Enter the process numbers.)
C Attach numbers to the operators assigned.
D Locate the models of machines and equipment on the plot according to the actual
layout.
E Enter the operator numbers and process numbers on the models of machines and
equipment according to the actual process organization (process allotment).
F Enter lines representing the product flow and movement of workers.
G Check the actual layout for problems.

5. Checking the layout

5.1. Whether there is any reverse flow or cross flow of products
5.2. Whether there is any overlapping flow of products
5.3. Whether the transfer distance (path load) is too long
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5.4. Whether the number of storage shelves is appropriate
5.5. Whether the locations of the storage shelves are appropriate
5.6. Whether the space is clearly separated for each process
5.7. Whether the workshop space is effectively used
5.8. Whether there are enough corridors
6. Basic layout of sewing machines and equipment
Layout of machines differs in arrangement and the number of unit to be installed
according to the systematic factors such as production system and process organization.
In this section various patterns of layout of sewing machines based on the existing case
examples of their layouts are investigated
Kinds of layout of sewing machines are broadly divided into three patterns, i.e.
Layout by model.
Layout by group and
Layout by process

Layout by model

Lockstitch machine

Over lock
special machines

Iron
Lockstitch special purpose

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Example of layout of sewing machine by mode

In the layout of machines by model as illustrated above, the machines or equipment is

rarely moved at the time of product type changing. In this point, the layout by model
is a layout pattern that matches the flexible production system where May different
kinds of products are manufactured in small lots. The layout pattern, however, does
not match the sewing product manufacturing since it causes increase in distance of
transfer and movement, reduction in line balance efficiency or difficulty in progress
control, thereby resulting in significant loss of production. Therefore, the layout by
model is only applicable to a certain product type or the sewing of samples.
(This layout pattern is, however, usually used for manufacturing knitwear.)

Layout by group
This is the layout pattern for arranging machines required by a group consisting of
several workers. The machines are laid out corresponding to the basic design of
products. They are not moved unless any significant problem exists. This pattern of
layout is consequently used for the lot production system. (This layout pattern is
usually used in parts processes or attachments processes.)

Layout by process
This is the layout pattern for arranging machine according to the normal processing
order of products. In the case where the work allotment is not done following the
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order of processes, workers may have to move a lot. Some of the machines will be
required to be moved at the time of product type changing. However, this pattern of
layout of machine facilitates the progress control and allows the line compulsiveness
to work. (This layout pattern is usually used in assembly processes since flow control
is important.
The following arrangement of machines is the basic one of the layout by process.
1. Forward flow

Direction of flow
2. Lateral flow

Direction of flow
3. Unit

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Direction of flow.
These three different basic arrangement patterns are combined to make a layout.
Combined type layout such as forward flow and lateral flow or forward flow and unit may
be employed. Arrangement of machines laying importance on rationalization of transfer and
pick-and place for products with single product number is the basis of the layout by
process. Flexibility to adapt to product number changing is also required.
There are applied methods of the layout by process such as the forward flow (synchro
system), lateral flow (U-shape layout) and unit system, in addition to the above mentioned
layouts we have I- system, L- system and S- system layout.
Calculate the required floor space for the total number of equipment.
Example :

Required floor per 1 sewing equipment -------------about 6m2 =A

Total Number of sewing equipment------------------187=B
Required floor space per 1 finishing equipment-----about 10m2=C
Total number of finishing equipment ---------------20 =D
Required floor space=AXB+CXD
Required floor space = 6X187+10X20 =1,322m 2

1.7. Target setting

Targets
Are priorities or special tasks which need to be achieved in addition to the routine
work.
Are specifically to an individual
May be intended to

Improve performance
Reduce a drop in performance
Develop a trainee to the required level

Targets are about short term shift in performance; whereas Standards are continuing
benchmark.
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Why set targets?
Targets are set to

Get results
Improve peoples performance
Develop skills, ability and knowledge
Provide a challenge and sense of achievement.

Target setting helps to answer the questions like: How am I doing?

Where do I go from here?
How do I get there?
How targets are set?

How many?
How precise?
For what period?
How difficult?
How to monitor?
Walking on the job
One to one meetings
Records.

Target calculation
The total target for the whole day, means 8 working hours is calculated as:
Target =productivity x No of machines
Similarly, target per hour= (total target)/8
No. of operators required
The number of operators required for a particular operation is calculated as:
Number of operators=total target/ (60x8/operation SAM)

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Number of days required to complete a style
= order quantity / (productivity x number of machine per line x number of
lines).
Daily Lines targets need to be calculated in respect to the number of operators being
used according to SAM of garment.
There are 2 ways to calculate the line target.
The formulae are as follows:SAM = standard allowable minutes (time allowed through general sewing data GSD
analysis for a complete garment) in 480 Mints. For any garment industry
Daily Lines Targets = available working mints/ SAM
Available Working Mins= No. of operators x Total Working Mins.
Example:Number of operators present for line1=20
SAM for the garment = 7.53
Working mins = 60x8=480
Therefore,
Available working mins = 20x480 = 9600
Daily lines targets = 9600/7.53 = 1274.9

Target Setting in case of operators absence

If after replacement of operators we come to have a line which is incomplete that is we
dont have any operators on a certain operation. So to calculate the target we should add
the SAM of the operation from the Total SAM. Example:Considering the same example of above, but in this case operation hem bottom is not
being done & the SAM = 0.43. Operators available = 19. The target of line should be as
so,

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Daily Lines Targets =

Available working mints/Total SAM+SAM of bottom hem =

9600/ (7.53+0.43) = 1206.03

How to calculate the number of machine

The number of machines necessary for daily production quantity in each processes can be
calculated as follows.
The number of m/c necessary for each process = Time required for each process x
production quantity / Working time per day
Example 1; for Dart sewing

SAM=0.76
Working Time per shift= 480mins.
Production Quantity per/shift=400pcs.

The Number of m/cs necessary for sewing Dart = 0.76minx400pcs/480

= 0.63=1m/cs

I.8.

Line balancing

Production line balancing is the allocation of the work to be done to the

people available to it.
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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

It is assigning the number of operators or machines to each operation of an

assembly line so as to meet the required production rate with the minimum of
ideal time.
The process of aligning operations within a specific production line, that
minimizes fluctuations in production levels and operation downtime, improve the
output of assembly line.

The purpose of line balancing

To ensure a steady flow of work through the production line.
To reduce the material handling time and manufacturing costs.
To make the best use of space.
To improve the working environment.
Steps for line balancing

Calculation of the labor requirement

With good work measurement records the work content of a new garment can be
calculated. The number of people required will depend up on the probable
efficiency of the line selected and the percentage of the time that they are at
work and doing their own specialist jobs.
The garment is split into different operations, in the interest of greater
specialization and assigns a standard time for each operation and special work
aids and attachments should also be mentioned on it
Theoretical operation balance
The elements are grouped together, to match the number of people selected, in
the calculation of labor requirements. No allowance is made.
Balance control
After the line is balanced it should be revised to assure the smooth flow of the
process. If there is any misbalance between each operation correction action can
be done by identifying the problem.

Limitations of work study

The application of work study has, even today, a number of limitations which might be
called its weak points and which certainly provide food for thought on several counts.

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The contrast between the highly technical and mechanical character of the
concepts on which work study is based and the psychological and sociological traits
of the groups and individuals affected by work study

The inevitably subjective nature of certain aspects of work study, especially the
assessment of working pace.
These points should always be kept in mind when the results are used in practice
to fix work standards and, whenever possible, the work standards calculated
should be cross checked by production studies taken under actual operating
conditions before the work standards are finalized. Such considerations should
especially influence the calculation of payment results, which is often based on an
estimate of the optimum rate of work and the difference between this and the
normal rate, since the size of the productivity bonus awarded to a worker who
achieves the optimum rate will depend on this difference.

The questions of fixing and maintaining the workload.

The first problem that arises here is the maximum workload. If, as often happens,
the actual workload is fixed by collective bargaining at somewhere between 80 and
90 per cent of the operatives time on the job, the question arises whether a more
scientific procedure can be used to determine this limit, bearing in mind the
nature of the job and the circumstances in which it has to be performed.

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2. JOB DISCRPITION
2.1. Objective
To identify the job so as to enable the worker to obtain a clear understanding of the work
performed and the attributes desirable in the person working on the job.
When properly prepared, job descriptions are of considerable value to management in a
variety of ways in addition to their use in evaluating jobs. Some of the circumstances in
which they may be useful are listed below:
1.

Hiring new employees

2.

Transferring employees

3.

Preparing a promotional schedule

4.

Establishing a training program

5.

Preventing accidents

6.

The work of the plant physician

7.

Cost estimating

8.

Budgetary control

9.

Time keeping and pay-roll activities

10. Organizing a psychological testing program

11. Installing a wage incentive scheme

2.2. Terms included in job description

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These Six items of information listed below are basic and necessary for any
consideration of the job and should be included in every job description.
1. Job Title:
It is desirable that the job title be short, definitive, and suggestive of the nature
of the job.
2. Summary of the Job:
A short paragraph briefly summarizing the task performed by the employee is
helpful for subsequent convenient identification of the job.
3. Work Performed:
Each specific task performed should be written out and an estimate percentage
of the time that is devoted to the performance of each task. This is the most
important phase of the job description and should be carefully prepared.

4. Tools, Equipment, and Materials:

The tools, equipment, and materials used in the performance of the job should
be included in the job description.
5. Physical Surroundings:
The working conditions, hazards, and other characteristics of the physical
surroundings within the working area should be described to aid to subsequent
interpretation of the job description.
6. Employee Attributes:
Employee attributes required by the job such as education and experience,
should be indicated.
2.3. How is job description prepared?

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The information necessary for the preparation of the job description can be secured in
one or more of the following ways:
1.

By observation of the job as performed

2.

By discussion with the supervisor of the job

3. By requesting the supervisor of the job to fill in a questionnaire describing the job.

4.

By discussion with one or more of the employees working on the job.

5.

By requesting one or more of the employees working on the job to fill in

questionnaires describing the job.

The technique of questionnaires is recommended only in the case of those rare
technical Jobs (usually salaried) where the Job Content is not completely known to
the supervisor or the operation is too complex to observe or the Job is actually what
the employee makes it.
Job descriptions may well be prepared out in the shop. Every job should be described
as it exists and as it is currently performed. Changes in procedure that might be
made or are planned should never be included in a job description until they take
place.
One of the most difficult phases of preparing job descriptions lies in the breaking
down of on existing job into two or more jobs.
The most common difficulty encountered in the preparation of job description is the
omission of relevant information.

Because of ignorance, laziness, or a mistaken

desire to economize in terms of time, job descriptions may be incompletely prepared.

Actually, this is worse than not preparing them at all. Furthermore, as grievances
arise subsequently concerning the correctness of any given evaluation, a serious
problem will arise if management cannot prove that the job was evaluated on the
basis of its actual content. On the other hand, occasionally job descriptions are found

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which contain entirely too much minutes detail. The best job descriptions are clear,
concise, and complete and present the entire jobs distinguishing characteristics.
2.4. Checking the job description and Securing approvals
After the job descriptions have been completed, they should be carefully reviewed to
assure.
(1) That there has been no involuntary duplication and
(2) That all jobs that should be evaluated have been described.
This can best be done by accounting for the job or jobs performed by each individual on
the pay roll with the supervisors concerned.
2.5. Job evaluation
Job evaluation is an analytical method of appraising the worth and value of each job in
relation to other jobs and hence it is used to determine the pay package for the job.
Jobs are evaluated taking into consideration the duties & responsibilities, physical
and mental efforts needed, working conditions and other critical factors. The purpose
is to determine the relative worth of the jobs and to design a fair and equitable salary
structure. It helps in identifying the jobs, which should be paid more than others.
Job evaluation involves analyzing the jobs and preparing specifications i.e. Job
description, rating each job in accordance with a predetermined method of rating and
pricing of the job, i.e. arranging the each job in proper pay grade. This evaluation and
rating is done is done by any one of the following four methods: Job ranking, job
classifications, point rating and factor comparison.
To understand the concept of job evaluation, let us consider an example
In garment industry there are various categories of workers. Some of the categories
may be

Spreader
Cutter
Pattern maker

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Finisher
Packing operator

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For each workers the skills required and the quantity of the work to be done

etc, are different. For instance a sewing operator needs a certain level of mental
development, flexibility of body and fingers and physical fitness; whereas, a sweeper
job requires very simple skills.
When there are large number of workers, fixing the hierarchy needs a careful

consideration of all the relevant factors. The process of arriving at a meaning full
hierarchical system for various jobs by the consideration of all the relevant facts of the
jobs is called job evaluation. In job evaluation, the jobs and not the person caring out
the job is evaluated.