LEE-ENFIELD

RIFLE MANUAL
No.1 - - No.3 - - No.4 - - No.5
MK III MK I MK I MK I

PAMPHLET 1

Preface
Here-in we have a guide for the civilian owner of a British 303 Lee-Enfield Rifle. The
subject matter of this text deals with the loading, firing, field striping and cleaning of these
rifles. The 303 British is the most popular chambering for the Enfield, but the information
applies to all calibers.
The history of the Lee-Enfield Rifle is not the purpose of this manual, information can be
found elsewhere that covers the subject in detail. However, a chart has been included to help
in determining when improvements have been made. Also, excluded from this book are
discussions of forestocks and buttplates. There are many varieties of each. Since these parts
of the rifle are not critical to loading, firing and cleaning, they have been omitted in order to
keep the costs of publication down.
Care should always be used to make certain the rifle is unloaded and always pointed in a safe
direction before field striping and cleaning.

Contents
Introduction ................................................................................................................... 1
The Lee-Enfield History...................................................................................... 2, 3, 4, 5
Technical Specifications ............................................................................... 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Headspace ............................................................................................................. 6
Barrel Gaging ........................................................................................................ 6
Firing Pin Protrusion .............................................................................................. 6
Trigger Pull ........................................................................................................... 6
Buttstock Lengths .................................................................................................. 6
Sights .................................................................................................................... 7
Loading and Firing ................................................................................................ 7
Field Stripping ....................................................................................................... 6
Special Instructions for the No. 4 Mark 1 Rifle ....................................................... 6
Disassembly of the Bolt for Cleaning and Inspection ...........................................8, 9
Removal of the Extractor Spring ............................................................................ 9
Replacing the Bolt ................................................................................................. 9
Bayonets.............................................................................................................. 10
Ballistics ...................................................................................................................... 11
Rifle Loads for the 303 British ....................................................................... 12, 13
Care and Cleaning........................................................................................................ 14
Corrosive Ammunition ........................................................................................ 14
Regular Ammunition ...................................................................................... 14, 15
General Cleaning ................................................................................................. 15
Final Bore Cleaning ............................................................................................. 16
Lee-Enfield Parts List .......................................................................... Inside Back Cover

Introduction
The Lee-Enfield Rifle
Lee-Enfield rifles introduced in 1886 were in use through-out the British Empire from then
until 1951, when they were gradually phased out.
By 1957, Great Britain had switched to the 308 or NATO caliber. In the constantly changing
world of military arms, 63 years is a very long lime for one rifle to remain the number one
battle rifle. As a comparison, the ubiquitous Mauser 98 was introduced in 1888, but did not
come on the scene as the 98 until 1898. The secret of the Lee-Enfield's staying power was the
sound design and the many modifications made during the rifles tenure.
A good many of the Lee-Enfield military rifles have been sold to the United States civilian
market by the British and Canadian governments. Witness the current stocks of these fine
rifles at gun shows and on the shelves of gun dealers. Some of the appeal of the Lee-Enfield
rifles is the fact that many of these rifles were made by American companies such as
Remington and Winchester, to tide the British over until they could produce their own
weapons during World War II. American shooters and collectors have another excellent rifle
to shoot collect, customize and hunt with at very reasonable prices.
British rifles have undergone a rigorous inspection and proofing system to insure that the
weapon is safe to shoot. American commercial ammunition for the 303 British is normally
loaded to comparable military velocities and current import rifles should be safe.
Handloaders should adhere to the loading manual recommendations. If there is doubt about
the safety of a rifle, it should be checked by a reliable gunsmith.

The Lee-Enfield History

The 303 cartridge was designed for the Lee-Metford Mk. 1 bolt action, magazine rifle by an
American, James Paris Lee. In 1895, he changed his shallow rifling of the Metford to the
deeper rifling of the Enfield. From this point on, the rifle was known as the Lee-Enfield.

The Lee-Enfield rifles were first produced in the Royal Small Arms Factory at Enfield,
England, It is also known as the SMLE (Short Magazine Lee-Enfield]. The No. 1 rifles were
also produced in large quantities by the BSA Co. in England, Australia and in India.
Although the unconventional lines of the Enfield did not appeal to the eye as a typical fine
British firearm. It survived due to its durability, accuracy, smooth working action and rapid
rate of fire. It was used in both World Wars. Before World War I, it was criticized because of
certain design features, but these criticisms were unfounded when the Enfield proved to be an
excellent battle rifle and was well liked by British troops.

The No. 3 Mk. 1 rifle, known as the Pattern 14, was adopted in 1914. Shortly before World
War I, it was changed from a 276 caliber Mauser type to the standard 303 British. The
magazine had the typical staggered cartridges of the Mauser and the one piece bolt found in
the German rifles. In addition to the regular sights, it has long range auxiliary sights
consisting of an aperture on the left side of the receiver and a bead front sight on an arm
pivoted to the left side of the fore-end.
During World War I, this rifle was produced in small quantities by Winchester, Remington in
Ilion, New York, and a Remington-owned plant at Eddystone, Pennsylvania. The British
Army used the rifle with a telescopic sight as a sniper rifle in that war. It was also used by the
Royal Navy.

The No. 4 Mk, 1 rifle was developed from the No. 1 SMLE between the World Wars. It
retained the basic Lee action design of the No. 1 rifle, but was extensively modified to
Improve performance and made easier to manufacture.
Important modifications included a heavier barrel, heavier receiver, aperture rear sight and
simplified bedding of the barrel in the fore-end.
Before the Battle of Dunkirk, only a few No. 4 rifles were built. However, after the British
disaster, these rifles went into major production in England, Canada and the United States.
After World War II, No. 4 rifles were used by Italy, Greece and some Arab countries. The
No. 4 Mk. 2 rifles were used during the Korean War. In 1954, the No. 4 rifle was replaced in
the British, Canadian and Australian Services by the FN-FAL in 762 NATO. No. 4 rifles are
by and large in better condition that No. 1's, but for the most part, are not finished as well as
the peacetime rifles.

During World War II, the No. 1 SMLE and No. 4 rifles were found to be too long and heavy
for jungle fighting. A shorter more handy rifle was needed and the No. 5 Mk l was developed
and adapted from the earlier rifles. The new rifle became popularly known as the "jungle
carbine", as was a No. 4 with short fore-end and barrel.
It was also fitted with a flash hider and a rubber buttplate. The short fore-end makes the No. 5
look like a sporting rifle. Many of these rifles were built and used in Burma and the South
Pacific during the later part of World War II. This version of the Enfield is very popular with
shooters and hunters and will likely bring a premium price.

Introduction or
Designation
Some Features of
Adoption Date
New Pattern
Dec. 22, 1888 Magazine Rifle, Mark I
Aug. 8 1891
Lee-Metford Magazine Rifle, Mark Same rifle, renamed.
I
Jan. 19,1892
Lee-Metford Magazine Rifle, Mark Safety catch omitted, Altered
I
sighting, magazine, handguard,
mainspring.
Jan. 30, 1892 Lee-Metford Magazine Rifle. Mark New 10-round magazine. Lighter
II
barrel. Weight reduced to 9 lbs, 4
ozs.
Apr. 22. 1895 Lee-Metford Magazine Rifle, Mark New pattern safety catch fitted to
II
cocking piece.
July 1, 1907
Charger Loading Lee-Metford
Converted to charger loading.
Magazine Rifle
Nov. 11. 1895 Lee-Enfield Magazine Rifle, Mark Same as Lee-Metford, Mark II, but
I
fitted with Enfield barrel.
May 11, 1899 Lee-Enfield Magazine Rifle, Mark Cleaning rod, and provision for rod
I
in fore-end omitted.
July 1, 1907
Charger-Loading Lee-Enfield
Converted from Lee-Enfields and
Magazine Rifle, Mark I
Lee-Metfords.
Dec. 23,1902 Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle, A new rifle.
Mark I
Jan. 16, 1903 Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle. Converted to Mark I pattern from
Converted Mark II
Lee-Enfields and Lee-Metfords.
July 2. 1906
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle. Deeper magazine case, etc. Weight
Converted Mark I
of rifle 8 lbs 7 ozs.
July 2, 1906
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle. Deeper magazine than converted
Converted Mark II
Mark II. Pull-through
accommodated in butt.
Jan. 26, 1907 Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle, Bridge charger guide fitted to body.
Mark III
Weight of rifle 8 lbs 10 ozs.
Sept. 1, 1907 Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle. Converted to Mark III pattern from
Converted Mark IV
Lee-Enfields and Lee-Metfords.
Jan. 4, 1908
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle. Sighing altered for Mark VII
Mark I
cartridge. Converted from Mark I
for Royal Navy.

Introduction or
Designation
Adoption Date
Jan. 4, 1908
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield
Rifle. Mark II
April 22, 1914 Short Magazine Lee-Enfield
Rifle. Mark I
Jan. 2, 1916
1922/23
[Not adopted]
1930/31
[Not adopted]
Nov. 15, 1939

Short Magazine Lee-Enfield

Rifle. Mark III
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield
Rifle. Mark V
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield
Rifle. Mark VI
No. 4 Rifle, Mark I

Nov. 15, 1939 No. 4 Rifle, Mark I

[Adopted 1939]
Officially
introduced Nov.
11, 1946
Feb. 12, 1942
No. 4 Rifle, Mark I [T]
Mar. 31,1949

No. 4 Rifle, Mark II

Mar. 31, 1949

Mar. 31, 1949
Mar. 31, 1949
Sept. 12,1944

No. 4 Rifle, Mark VII

No. 4 Rifle, Mark VIII
No. 4 Rifle, Mark VII [T]
No. 5 Rifle, Mark I

1946/47

No. 7 Rifle

Sept. 7, 1950
Sept. 7, 1950

No. 8 Rifle
No. 9 Rifle

Some Features of
New Pattern
New sighting, etc. Converted from
converted Mark II rifles
Sighting altered for Mark VII cartridge.
Converted from Mark I rifles for Royal
Navy.
Long range sights, cut off omitted.
Aperture backsight. One piece
handguard, etc.
Heavier barrel. Two-piece handguard.
Similar to later No. 4 rifle.
Development of No. 1 Rifle. Mark VI,
but with strengthened body.
Alternative method of manufacture to
Mark I. Differs in body ribway,
bolt-head catch, and bridge piece.

Mark I or Mark I fitted with Telescope

No. 32 for snipers.
Trigger pivoted on body, and not hung
on trigger guard.
Mark I converted to Mark II pattern.
Mark I converted to Mark II pattern.
Mark I [T] with trigger pivoted on body.
A lightened No. 4 Rifle. A Mark II
pattern was made, but not produced.
There was never a Mark I.
Similar to No. 4 Rifle, but fitted cal. 22
barrel. Issued to RAF.
Cal. 22 rifle for Military Forces.
No. 4 Rifle fitted with cal. 22 tubed
barrels. Issued to Royal Navy.

Technical Specifications
Headspace
The 303 is a rimmed cartridge and headspace is measured from the barrel race to the face of
the bolt. Headspace should not exceed 074 inch, but a maximum of 008 inch was allotted
during wartime. Minimum headspace is 064 inch.

Barrel Gaging
A new barrel should have a bore diameter from 301 to 304 inches. For a used barrel, plug
gages from 303 to 310 should be used. The 303 gage should run through the barrel. The
307 should not The 308 gauge should not enter the muzzle more than 25 inch. The 310
gage should not enter the breach more than 25 inch.

Firing Pin Protrusion

The high firing pin protrusion for No. 1 rifles is 055 inch and the low is 050 inch. The high
for No. 4's and No. 5's is 050 inch. The low is 040 inch.

Trigger Pull
The first pull or slack should be 3 or 4 pounds. The second pull should be from 5 to 6 pounds.
To increase or decrease the trigger pull weight alter the angle of the cocking piece sear notch.

Buttstock Lengths
Stocks for the No, 1 rifles were made in long and short lengths. During World War I, a special
short butt called the Bantam was made. These butts were marked "L", "S" or "B" on the top of
the stock about one inch from the buttplate tang. Stocks for the No. 4 and No. 5 rifles come in
long, short and normal lengths.

Sights
The front sights for the Enfield were originally a barley com sight with a small V for the rear
As improvements were made to the rifle, a front blade was used and a u-shaped rear sight
replaced the old V. Later a long range adjustable stand-up sight with a peep was used. They
were fixed to the barrel. As the rifles were further refined, the rear sights were set over the
tang to increase sight radius. These sights have adjustments out to 1,600 yards and some can
be fine tuned with a worm wheel to more precise increments.
The purpose of the long range sights was not for accuracy. The British like to fire in volleys
and were able to use this strategy to terrorize the enemy with a hail of bullets from long range
while the hapless enemy could not return fire.
During World War II, sniper scopes were introduced along with mounts and boxes to carry
them when the scopes were not attached to the rifle.

Loading and Firing

Place the rifle on a table in the upright position or if in the field, place the left hand under the
receiver and with the right hand, grasp the bolt and turn it up and to the left. Pull the bolt
straight back as far as it will go. Insert a loaded five round clip in the clip guide inside the
receiver and force the cartridges down into the magazine with the right thumb. Take out the
empty clip. Place another five round clip in the clip guide and strip these cartridges into the
magazine. There will be ten rounds in the magazine.
With the right hand, grasp the bolt handle and push it forward and down, (to the right). This
will strip a cartridge from the magazine and slide it into the chamber. This action also cocks
the firing pin. The rifle is now ready to be fired by squeezing the trigger. If the rifle will not
be fired immediately, set the thumb safety on the rear of the receiver to "Safe".
After the rifle has been fired, lift the bolt handle up and to the left. Pull the bolt straight back.
This action causes the spent cartridge to be withdrawn from the firing chamber and flipped
clear of the receiver. To reload the rifle, push the bolt handle forward and down. A fresh
cartridge is stripped from the magazine and slipped into the chamber. The rifle is now ready
to fire again. This sequence may be repeated until the magazine is empty.

Field Stripping
First, make sure mere is no cartridge in the chamber. Second, remove the magazine.
The magazine catch is located in the forward end of the trigger guard. Push it in or pull it up
as your rifle requires. This will release the heavy sheet steel box and it may be withdrawn
from the bottom of the receiver. Turn the rifle upside down and push the rear of the magazine
follower and spring down past the chamber. You can turn the rifle right side up and pull the
forward end of the follower and spring out the top of the receiver.
To remove the bolt, you will find me safety catch above the left rear of the trigger guard.
Rock the safety catch above the left rear of the trigger guard. Rock the safety forward, then
turn the bolt handle up, pull it up and rearward as far as it will go. Hold the rifle steady with
the left hand and place the right forefinger under the bolt head. Now pull the bolt up until it is
free of its spring catch. Then hold the bolt handle and withdraw the bolt to the rear until it is
clear.

Special Instructions for Field Stripping the No. 4 Mark I Rifle

First, make sure there is no cartridge in the chamber. In order to withdraw the bolt from the
No. 4 Mark I Rifle, find the cut out on the bolt head track. Look on the right side of the
receiver. Slide the bolt back until it is
over this cut out. Now you can lift the
bolt head straight up and remove the bolt
from the rifle.

Disassembly of the Bolt for

Cleaning and Inspection
The bolt head can be unscrewed from the
bolt body. This facilitates cleaning and
inspection. The removal of the firing pin
can be difficult. However, with the
proper tool, it is a simple procedure for
the person with some mechanical
dexterity. With the bolt head removed,
look at the front of the bolt and you will
see the two notches on both sides of the
firing pin shoulder.

Insert the t-shaped tool into the notches and turn the cocking piece until the lower two
notches are reached. The firing pin spring should be virtually decompressed. Remove the
firing pin locking screw round in the rear of the cocking piece. Now we may finish removing
the firing pin with the special tool. Unscrewing the firing pin with a makeshift rig may cause
damage and should be left to a qualified gunsmith.

Removal of the Extractor

Spring
Place the bolt in a padded vice and insert
a drift punch of less than 004 inch In
diameter into the small hole found in the
bolt head adjacent to the extractor. Push
the punch into the hole against the
extractor spring and ease the spring
forward using a screw driver.
Keep one finger over the extractor slot to
keep the spring from jumping out To
reassemble, place the spring into the
extractor slot and seat the small projection on the spring into its seat in the bolt head.

Replacing the Bolt

Lee-Enfield bolts are not interchangeable. They have been fitted to their respective boltways.
Compare the number of the bolt with the number of the rifle to avoid any chance that might
cause you to substitute a bolt in the wrong rifle. Check to see that there is no cartridge in the
chamber. Be sure that the bolt head is fully screwed home and that the bolt cocking piece
lines up with the lug on the underside of the bolt.
Replace the bolt in the boltway and push if forward. Next, pull the bolt to the rear to the
resistance shoulders and force the bolt head down over the spring retaining catch. Then, push
the bolt forward all the way and turn the bolt handle down. Hold the rifle so the muzzle is
pointing in a safe direction and press the trigger. The firing pin should fall with an audible
dick.

Bayonets
The bayonets for the Lee-Enfield No. 1 rifles look like a short sword as did other bayonets of
the time. One had a quillion similar to a knife or sword to parry an enemy thrust. Later
bayonets for the Mark 4 rifle were known as the cruciform bayonet because it looks like a
cross in cross section. These look like a spike and were easier to fight with than the blade type
bayonet.
The British went back to a blade type bayonet with composite hand grips for the No. 7 Mk. I
after World War II. Another bayonet that appeared after the war was the No. 9 Mk, I for the
No. 4 rifle. This one has no grips and is a bit less than eight inches in length and is lighter in
weight than its predecessors.

BAYONET FOR THE NO 4 RIFLE

BAYONET HOOKED QUILLION FOR THE NO. 1 RIFLE.

10

The Lee-Enfield Ballistics

1892, the 303 British cartridge was loaded with 70 grains of black powder and had a 215
grain round nose bullet with a muzzle velocity of 1,850 fps. Muzzle energy was 1,640 fp. By
1914, with a smokeless powder loading and a 174 grain pointed bullet, the velocity moved up
to 2,440 fps. This was the Mk. VII round and was still in use when the 303 was discontinued.
Used extensively in Africa, Canada and India by the military, government, workers and
settlers, the 303 cartridge suffered from a bad reputation due to the use of the military full
metal jacketed pointed bullets. When sporting ammunition became available, the 303
became a reliable cartridge for lighter non-dangerous game. Jacketed ammunition has a
bullet diameter of 311 inch. Cast lead bullets can be 312 inch or even 313 inch.
The 30-40 Krag was the cartridge by which the 303 was judged early in its life. The 303 had
a slight edge over the 30-40 and later would take chamber pressures of 50,000 psi. The
Enfield Mk. 4 has been successfully converted to 308 Winchester (762 NATO). The British
303 is now compared with the more powerful 308 Winchester and the 303 has found its
niche in the American market. Plentiful stocks of rifles and ammunition have assured it a
place for many years to come.

303 British
Max. Case Length: 2222". Trim-To Length 2212". Max. Overall length: 3075". Primer
Size: Large Rifle. Bullet Diameter: 311"

11

Rifle Loads for the 303 British

LOAD
NUMBER

BULLET

POWDER

VELOCITY

WEIGHT BRAND SHAPE TYPE WEIGHT BRAND TYPE

FPS

100

SPR

RNN

SP

440

MR

3031

2933

150

SPR

PTD

SP

310

HER

RE7

2400

150

HDY

SPP

SP

440

IMR

3031

2787

150

HDY

SPP

SP

418

HOD

BLC2

2600

150

455

ACC

2230

2620

150

SRA

PTD

SP

485

IMR

4320

2808

150

HDY

SPP

SP

458

HOD

H380

2800

150

SPR

PTD

SP

450

HER

RE12

2700

150

HDY

SPP

SP

500

WIN

760

2600

10

150

SPR

PTD

SP

500

IMR

4350

2584

11

174

HDY

RNN

SP

431

HOD

H380

2400

12

174

HDY

RNN

SP

472

WIN

760

2400

13

174

HDY

RNN

SP

465

IMR

4350

2400

14

180

SPR

RNN

SP

300

HER

RE7

2050

15

180

SRA

PTD

SP

420

IMR

3031

2533

16

180

400

ACC

2230

2300

17

180

SPR

RNN

SP

400

HER

RE12

2340

18

180

SPR

RNN

SP

470

IMR

4831

2421

19

180

460

ACC

3100

2350

Abbreviations: ACC - Accurate Arms Co.; - Canadian Industries. Ltd: HDY - Hornady
Manufacturing Co.; HER Hercules, inc.; HOD -Hodgdon Powder Co.; IMR - IMR Powder
Co.;

12

LOAD PRESSSURE CASE

PRIMER
CARTRIDGE BARREL SOURCE
NUMBER
CUP
BRAND BRAND TYPE
OAL
LENGTH
1

CIL

CCI - 200

25

SPR

41,200

WIN

WIN - WLR

2935

24

HER

44,900

REM

WIN - WLR

2840

26

NRA

REM

FED - 210

3035

25i

HDY

REM

CCI - 200

24

ACC

REM

WIM - WLR

2945

26

NRA

REM

FED - 210

3035

25

HDY

WIN

WIN - WLR

2935

24

HER

REM

FED - 210

3035

25

HDY

10

CIL

CCI - 200

25

SPR

11

REM

FED - 210

2975

25

HDY

12

REM

FED - 210

2975

25

HDY

13

REM

FED - 210

2975

25

HDY

43,630

7
8

42,900

14

30,000

WIN

WIN - WLR

2940

24

HER

15

44,220

REM

WIN - WLR

3075

26

NRA

REM

CCI - 200

24

ACC

WIN

WIN - WLR

24

HER

18

CIL

CCI - 200

25

SPR

19

REM

CCI - 200

24

ACC

16
17

42,600

2940

PTD - Ported; RNN - Round Nose; SP - Soft Point; SPP - Spire Point; SPR - Speer; SRA Sierra Buffets.

13

Care and Cleaning

The enemy of all weapons is rust. In order to maintain a rust free rifle, a few simple steps
must be performed periodically. All metal surfaces should be coated with a light coat of a
quality gun oil from time to time depending on the humidity in your area.
In humid areas, more applications of oil are required. The user should pay close attention to
the patch that is run through the bore. If the patch comes out dirty or green, a more thorough
cleaning is recommended.
After firing the rifle, the bolt should be removed and the rifle should be cleaned. A cleaning
rod with screw-in tips should be used for versatility in cleaning of the bore. Other cleaning
items include a good quality bore cleaner and oil. G.I. or commercial is fine. Also at hand
should be some white cotton or blended cleaning patches, a brass brush in the correct caliber
(303/7mm), pipe cleaners, tooth brush and some lint-free cloth. A bore light and rust
inhibiting spray such as WD-40 are optional.

Corrosive Ammunition
Corrosive ammunition can be manufactured using less expensive chemicals such as
fulminate of mercury. Unfortunately, these chemicals will attract moisture, which in time
will cause iron to rust. When corrosive ammunition has been used, the rifle should be cleaned
within a day or two after firing. A rusty or pitted bore will destroy the accuracy of any rifle.

Regular Ammunition
To clean the bore, place a clean patch in the slot of the rod tip and saturate it with bore
cleaner. Place the rod tip into the breach or chamber area of the rifle and force the rod up the
bore until the tip with the patch comes out the muzzle. Pull the rod back through the bore until
the tip with the patch comes out the breach or chamber end. Repeat this until the patch has
gotten so dirty it will no longer remove fouling. Replace the dirty patch with a clean one,
saturate it in gun cleaning solvent and go through the cleaning process again.

14

When the patches are coming out much cleaner, you have removed the first layer of fouling.
Replace the slotted patch tip with the bore brush and run it through the bore from the breach
end. Several strokes should be done. Remove the bore brush and screw on the patch tip.
Saturate the patch with bore solvent and run it through the bore as before.
Now the patch should look dirty again and it may possibly look green. The green color comes
from the interaction of the solvent with copper jacketed ammunition that may have been
used. This is normal and means that the solvent is doing its job of removing the copper
residue that is left after the rifle has been shot.
When the patches come out clean, stop the cleaning of the bore leaving a heavy coat of
solvent In the bore overnight.

General Cleaning
Al metal surfaces including the sights, should be wiped down with a solvent dampened cloth.
Wipe the solvent from the outside surfaces of the metal with a dry cloth. This should remove
most grime and powder residue, A light coat of rust inhibitor such as WD-40 can be used to
spray the exposed surfaces of metal and then wiped with an oily cloth.
We now turn our attention to the bolt and the internal area of the receiver. The bolt can be
unscrewed and placed in a container filled with solvent to soak while you wipe down the
internal magazine using a cloth with a liberal amount of solvent. Wipe down the boltway, and
other places in the receiver with the solvent laden cloth. Be sure to clean the bolt latch and
safety knob.
Next take the toothbrush and dip it in the solvent and scrub inside the receiver and boltways.
Grime and fouling will be lifted. Follow up with a dry cloth to remove the fouling. When this
area is clean, take a cleaner and dip it in solvent. Scrub as many nooks and crannies as
possible. This done, wipe all solvent from the internal surfaces of the receiver and magazine
area with a dry cloth and pipe cleaners. A light coat of the rust inhibitor may be sprayed here,
but remember this is not a lubricant and should be lightly wiped up. A coat of oil should be
wiped over all the internal parts just cleaned. It may be necessary to use a pipe cleaner coated
with gun oil to reach hard to lubricate places.

15

Take the bolt out of the cleaning solvent and scrub the exterior with the toothbrush. Wipe it
down with a dry cloth. If it has not been soaking, apply a liberal amount of solvent to the
interior and exterior surfaces of the bolt Dip the toothbrush in solvent and scrub the bolt until
all fouling has been loosened. Pay close attention to the extractor, removing all fouling.
Wipe all internal and external parts of the bolt clean with a cloth. Coat the bolt with a light
coat of gun oil and let it sit out of the rifle overnight

Final Bore Cleaning

The next day, the bore should be coated with a liberal amount of solvent. The patch will be
discolored with dirty powder and may be green from the copper. This is normal. Use the bore
brush to clean out any remaining rust; fouling or copper residue.
At this time, you may wish to inspect the bore with a bore light to look for fouling, lead
build-up, rust, pits or cracks. Insert the bore light into the breach, turn it on and took down the
muzzle to view the bore. If an unusual amount of firing has been done, it may be necessary to
repeat the cleaning process the following day.
After the bore comes out clean, dry it with clean, dry patches. Now, coat a fresh patch with
gun oil and coat the bore liberally. Finally, you may use a cotton bore swab coated with oil to
pass through the bore. It should come out clean. Wipe all exterior metal parts with a light coat
of oil. Replace the bolt and set the rifle aside.

16