Pendulum Clocks 12 64
Pendulum Clocks 12 64
Pendulum Clocks 12 64
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
B
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
E I
C A
J D
H J
Front Clock movement
#P10-10 Mantle Clock Description Item Qty Front & Back A 1 ea 1/4T x 6W x 13 3/4L 1/8 - 1/4T x 6 3/8W x 11L Crest B 1 1/4T x 3 3/16W x 11 3/16L Side C 2 1/4T x 5 3/4W x 9 3/4L Edging D 1 1/4T x 2W x 10 3/4L Side Bracket E 2 1/4 - 1/2T x 5 3/4W x 9 3/4L Base F 1 1/4T x 4 1/4W x 4 7/16L Roof G 2 1/4 - 1/2T x 3 3/16W x 5 7/16L Spacer H 1 1 1/8T x 5 3/4W x 5 3/4L Dial I 2 1/4T x 2W x 8 1/4L Fence J 1/8T x 1 5/8W x 5L Pendulum K 1 Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8L into the following shape 1/8 1/4 1/4 Front Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C131 Hands - #C137 or #C138
Pendulum (K)
Stock 1/8
Pendulum Hook
#P10-10
Attach Sides and Spacer with glue and #18 x 5/8wire brads. Spacer (H)
#P10-10
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Front
Roof (G)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top
Front (A)
o Ro
f(
G)
of
(G
Note - Cut a 4 hole in the Back for changing batteries and setting time.
Bore 5/16 hole for clock shaft in front only. #P10-10 Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Back (A)
Crest (B)
Stock: 1/8 - 1/4 Right pattern piece.
Crest (B)
Stock: 1/8 - 1/4 Left pattern piece.
Attach Crest to Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8 wire brads.
Side (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Side (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
Side (C)
Side (C)
#P10-10 Back (A) Side Bracket (E) Front (A) Front (A) Fence (J) Front
Edging (D)
Stock: 1/4
Side (C)
Front (A)
Front (A)
Fence (J)
Front
Side (C)
Base (F)
Dial (I)
Stock: 1/8 Drill 5 1/6 hole for clock shaft.
Spacer (H)
Stock: 1/4 - 1/2
#P10-10
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Fence (J)
#P488 - Black Forest Clock Capture old world charm with our popular Black Forest Clock. 16 tall.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
C D C A
10 12 11 1 2 3 4 8 7 5 6
G E F
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
#P488 - Black Forest Clock Description Item Qty 1 Back A 1 Frame B 5 Intarsia Leaf C 1 Intarsia Bird D 1 Door E 1 Door Frame F 1 Crest G 2 Pinecone H 1 Pendulum I Size 3/4T x 4 3/4W x 7L 3/4T x 7 1/2W x 9 3/4L 1/2 - 3/4T x 3 1/4W x 4L 1/2 - 3/4T x 3 1/4W x 4 3/4L 1/4T x 1 1/4W x 1 1/4L 1/4T x 2W x 2 1/2L 3/4T x 3 3/4W x 8L 3/8 - 1/2T x 1 1/4W x 4 3/4L 3/4T x 1W x 10 1/2L
C I H
#P488
Note: For a more realistic appearance, cut along all solid black lines on the Bird and Leaf patterns. Shape each section by sanding the interior edges. Glue back together.
Pinecone (H)
Back (A)
Stock: 3/4 Dashed-dot lines indicate Door and Door Frame placement
Use chain and eye screws to hang Pinecone from bottom of Back (A). Center eye screw from front to back.
Door (E)
Stock: 1/4 Carve or scrollsaw lines into Door
Note: To scroll saw the lines into the Door after cutting the outer shape, hold the work piece vertically on your scroll saw table and gently press the work piece into the blade.
Frame (B)
Stock: 3/4
#P488
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
Crest (G)
Stock: 3/4
Pendulum (I)
Stock: 3/4, front view
#P488
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
#P650 - Pendulum Clock 10 1/2H. Order Movement #C132 & Hands #C139 or #C140
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
D A
B
J
E G F
GREAT AMERICAN
H
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
#P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock Description Dial Rim Top Figure Overlay Bottom Overlay Pendulum Overlay Pendulum Back Clock Support Overlay item A B C D E F G H I J Qty 1 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 Size 1/4T x 8 1/4W x 8 1/4L 1/8T x 10 3/4W x 10 1/2L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/2W x 5 1/2L 1/16 - 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 3L 1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/4W x 5 3/4L 1/16 - 1/8T x 3 3/4W x 3 3/4L 1/16 -1/8T x 2W x 8 5/8L 1/8T x 8 1/4W x 8 1/4L 1T x 3 1/2W x 3 3/4L 1/8T x 4W x 4 1/2L
#P650
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Overlay (D)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 4 Spacers: 1/4, cut 8
Rim (B)
Stock: 1/8. Left pattern piece.
#P650
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin Rim (B)
Stock: 1/8. Right pattern piece. piece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8L into the following shape 1/8 1/4 1/4
Pendulum of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with Hook contact cement or super glue. Insert the remaining 1/4 Front side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
#P650
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Pendulum (G)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Hook Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C132 Hands - #C139 or #C140 Pendulum Overlay (F) Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
Overlay (J)
Stock: 1/8
#P650
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
#P651 - Pendulum Clock 18H. Order Movement #C132 & Hands #C137 or #C138
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
E B
C B
12 3 9 6
F G
K C
J
A A
H I
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
#P651 - Mantel Clock Description Front & Back Support Front & Back Side Crest Roof Dial Underlay Dial Flower Overlay Flower Overlay Pendulum Bob Pendulum Rod Item A B C D E F G H I J K Size 1/4T x 6 5/8W x 10 5/8L 4 1 ea 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 10 1/4L 1/4T x 6 1/8W x 9 7/8L 2 1/4T x 6W x 12 1/4L 1 1/4T x 4 1/2W x 4 7/8L 2 1/8T x 5 3/4W x 5 3/4L 1 1/8T x 5 1/4W x 5 1/4L 1 1/16-1/8T x 1 1/4W x 1 1/4L 1 1/16-1/8T x 1 1/2W x 1 3/4L 1 1/16-1/8T x 1 3/4W x 1 3/4L 1 1/16-1/8T x 3/16W x 5 1/2L 1 Qty
#P651
Overlay (I)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
#P651
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Small dashed lines indicate placement of Dial Overlay Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.
Note: Cut a 4 diameter hole in the Back. This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
#P651
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Side (C)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Front
(B)
(B)
(A)
(A)
#P651
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Ro
of
(E
Crest (D)
Stock: 1/4. Left pattern piece. Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 wire brads.
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8L into the following shape 1/8 1/4 1/4
Pendulum Hook
1/4 side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
#P651
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Crest (D)
Stock: 1/4. Right pattern piece.
Top
Roof (E)
Stock: 1/4, cut 2 Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8 wire brads. Front (A)
Back (A)
Front
#P651
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
Dial (G)
#P651 Stock 1/8 Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
#P654 - Pendulum Clock 13H. Order Movement #C130 & Hands #C139
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
B G D J A E K
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
#P654 - Fishermans Clock Description Frame Back Spacer Left Cloud Right Cloud Dial Leaves Cattails Pendulum Left Mountain Right Mountain item Qty A B C D E F G H I J K 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 Size 1/8T x 10 5/8W x 13 3/4L 1/4T x 9 3/4W x 11L 1T x 5W x 11 1/8L 1/16-1/8T x 1W x 2 1/2L 1/16-1/8T x 1 1/8W x 2 1/2L 1/16T x 6 1/4W x 6 1/4L 1/16-1/8T x 3 3/8W x 3 3/8L 1/16-1/8T x 4 1/4W x 9 1/4L 1/4T x 3 3/8W x 5 3/4L 1/16-1/8T x 3W x 5 5/8L 1/16-1/8T x 2 5/8W x 5 3/8L
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#P654
Cut on outside and inside solid lines for Frame (A) only.
Dial (F)
Stock: 1/16 Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.
Sto pac ck er :1 ( , C) cu t2
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Leaves (G)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2 Spacers: 1/8, cut 6
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Cattails (H)
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8L into the following shape 1/8 1/4 1/4
Pendulum of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with Hook contact cement or super glue. Insert the remaining 1/4 Front side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
Pendulum (I)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
#P654
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#P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock Bring nature indoors with our tranquil Duck Pendulum Clock. Use contrasting woods for added effect. Nearly 11 in diameter.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS
Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING
For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION
There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16 - 1/4 #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4 - 1/2 #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2 - 3/4 or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
Clear tape
Step 2 Step 1
Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper. Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
STACK CUTTING
Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2 for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
VEINING
Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE
Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004 All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
#P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock Description D #P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock B Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin 1/8 A
Front Clock movement piece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8L into the following shape 1/4 1/4
item A B C D
Qty 1 1 1 1
Size 1T x 3 1/2W x 3 3/4L 1/16T x 4 3/4W x 9 1/8L 1/16 - 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 7 3/8L 1/4T x 10 1/4W x 10 1/4L
Pendulum Hook
D
Backside view of Clock Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
1/4 side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as
necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Overlay to the Frame. Then attach the with glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock movement through the rubber washer, and then insert the shaft through the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass washer onto the shaft and secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex nut, making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach the Clock Support into place. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the Pendulum, and insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired and attach the hands.
#P785
Pendulum (B)
Stock: 1/16
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Overlay (C)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/4
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Frame (D)
Stock: 1/4 Left pattern piece.
#P785
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004
Frame (D)
Stock: 1/4 Right pattern piece.
#P785
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004