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Status of Apparel Manufacturing in India India has approximately 30,000 ready-to-wear apparel manufacturing units, with a wide production range. India produces more than 100 garment product categories and is increasingly considered as a major supplier of highquality fashion apparel (Tait, 2001). Traditionally, the apparel industry has primarily been mass-production focused with limited use of technologies where high technology and R&D activities have been less prioritized actions. The industry runs on three basic operations: (1) cutting; (2) stitching; and (3) pressing/finishing. The typical process is a combined process of various general and/or specialized machines operated by manual or mechanical/electronic devices (Bhavani and Tendulkar, 2001). In many instances, production involves manual operations of machines and materials, because the materials need manual feeding through the machines and thus automation is limited (Bailey, 1993). A very less new product development activity is done in Indian apparel industry. The garments are manufactured as per the requirement of the foreign buyers. Hence India needs to invest in research and development to develop new products, reduce transaction costs, reduce per unit costs, and finally, improve its raw material base. With a view to encourage the R&D activities, Indian apparel manufacturers are allowed 150% of its expenses on Research and Development (www.textmin.ac.in).
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Birtwistle et al.(2003)
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transaction costs, communication competence, cooperation, power, ability to handle conflict, continuity of relationship , and strategic networks that are applicable to successful networks for the Hong Kong clothing Industry. Cetindamar et al. (2005) studied the benefits, bridges, and barriers associated with supply chain collaboration in the Turkish textile supply chain. They conclude that benefits of SCC are customer-oriented benefits, productivity benefits, and innovation related benefits and determinants are trust, common goals for cooperation and existence of cooperation mechanisms and barriers are lack of trust, risk-benefit evaluation, and lack of common goals for co-operation. Tyler et al. (2006) studied the textiles and fashion clothing supply chain in UK companies with the objective of identifying factors that constrain company activities and inhibit competitiveness. They have identified seven significant blocks i.e. timing of fabric trade shows, lack of control of availability of fabric, forecasting, late stage product changes, geographical proximity to market, decision making decoupled from fashion trends, stock-outs and slow selling products to responsiveness that were apparent in the observed supply chains. Simatupang and Sridharan (2004) argued that interdependence, uncertainty, and inter functional conflict are important determinants of collaboration. Sheu et al. (2006) studied the social and technical factor contributing to successful collaboration and identified the necessary supply chain architecture for supplier-retailer collaboration, and demonstrate how it influences supply chain performance. Table 2: shows some determinants of SCC cited in literature.
Table 2 Determinants of Supply Chain Collaboration S. No 1 Determinant Top management commitment Reference Ireland and Bruce (2000); Min et al. (2005), Akkermans et al. (1999); Chen et al. (2004); Morgan and Hunt (1994); Sandberg (2007). Lambert and Cooper (2000); Lau and Lee (2000); Li et al. (2005); Min et al. (2005); Lee and Whang (2000); Zhao et al. (2002); Chroneer (2005); Faisal et al. (2006); Bowersox et al. (2002); Stank et al. (2001); Simatupang and Sridharan (2002); Yu et al. (2001); Xu and Dong (2004). Heikkila (2002); Handfield and Bechtel (2002); Kaur et al. (2006); Simatupang and Sridharan (2002);); (1992); Mentzer et al. (2000). Ellram and Cooper (1990); Larson (1994); Cooper et al. (1997). Nesheim (2001); Ireland and Bruce (2000); Kumar (1996); Agarwal and Shankar (2003); Sahay (2003); Johnston et al. (2004). Mentzer et al. (2000); Mohr and Spekman (1994); Ellram and Cooper (1990); Cooper et al. (1997); Chen et al. (2004); Heide and John (1990); Mohr and Spekman (1994); Ganesan (1994). McIvor and McHugh (2000); Cooper et al. (1997); Mentzer et al. (2000); Sahay and Maini (2002); Kaufman et al. (2000); Kotabe et al. (2003). Barrat (2004) Cox (1999) Ireland and Bruce(2000); Barratt and Green 2001);Barratt (2004). Sparks (1994);Ellram and Edis (1996); Ireland and Bruce (2000). Spekman et al.(1998); Hogarth-Scott (1999); Stank et al. (1999) Chen et al. (2004) Oliver (1990) Heide and John (1990) Mohr and Spekman (1994) Kogut (1988); Oliver (1990).
Information sharing
3 4 5
Interdependence Cooperation Trust among supply chain partners (external trust and internal trust) Long-term relationships
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
Risk and Reward Sharing Joint Decision Making Technological Compatibility Collaborative Culture Mutuality Openness and Honesty Employees Involvement Transaction Costs Specific Investments Economic Satisfaction Joint Programmes
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Case Company A Company A is a Indias leading apparel company growing at 30% year on year with premium brands like Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Allen Solly womens wear, Peter England, Element, Byford, & SF Jeans. It has over 30% of the market share in the premium segment. Company manufactures primarily shirts and trousers with increasing focus on accessorization and located in Bangalore. Case Company B Company B was started in 1989 and started its commercial production in 1992 and opened a new facility in 2006. The turnover of the company is Rs.30 Crores. Company has strong corporate values. The products are fabrics range from cotton to cotton blends, polyester blends, lycra, etc. with knitting options like rib, interlock, jersey, fleece and so on. Case Company C Case company C is located at Nethaji Apparel Park Tiruppur and started its operation in the year 1993. Turnover of the company is Rs.15 Crores and it has 180 employees. The products are Mens wear, Ladies wear, kids wear, childrens wear, night wear, fabrics. Case Company D Case company D is manufacturer and exporter of woven garments and fabric which is established in 1999 and its turnover is Rs.9 Crores. Products are Workmens wear, Staff uniforms, Catering set, School uniforms, work overcoat, doctors/nurse coot, security set, boiler set, aprons, jackets etc.
Table 3 Case Study Results Profile of Case Companies Year of establishment Turnover (Rs. in Crores) No. Employees of Case Company A 1982 >500 >1500 22 Branded Shirts like Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Allen Solly womens wear, Peter England, Element, Byford, & SF Jeans Yes for Case Company B 1989 30 750 30 Case Company C 1993 15 180 45 Case Company D 1999 9 85 55
Products
Fabrics range from cotton to cotton blends, polyester blends, lycra, etc. with knitting options like rib, interlock, jersey, fleece and so on.
Men's Wear, Ladies Wear, Kids Wear, Children Wear, Night Wear and Fabrics.
Woven fabrics and exporting woven garments, uniforms and professional work wear.
Yes
No
No
Rating: Strongly Agree Case company 1 appreciates and understands the importance of business relationship with their suppliers.
Rating: Strongly agree Case company 2 appreciates and understands the importance of business relationship with their suppliers.
Rating: Agree Case Company 3 has more power since there are many alternative suppliers.
Rating: Disagree This company is critical to small suppliers and has more alternatives.
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Trust supplier
with
Rating: Strongly agree Top management uses contract to establish mutual trust
Rating: Strongly Agree Strong effort in developing long-term relationship. Improvements in production systems. Investing in education training.
Information sharing
Rating: Strongly Agree Share future plans, new product development details and forecasting details. Rating: Strongly agree Has risk sharing plan.
Rating: Strongly Agree Share future plans and new product development details.
Rating: Strongly Disagree No risk sharing plan. Rating: Strongly Disagree Average 2 years; very unstable Lack of effort in developing long-term relationship
Rating: Strongly Agree Joint decision making about cost improvements is regularly done with suppliers. Joint collaborative planning initiatives, is taken with their suppliers. Joint decision making regarding quality and process improvement initiatives has done monthly with suppliers.
Rating: Strongly Agree Joint collaborative planning initiatives are taken with their suppliers. Joint decision making regarding quality and process improvement initiatives has done monthly with suppliers.
Strongly decision
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Rating: Strongly Agree This company has adopted SAP AFS (Apparel and Footwear Solution), RFID etc.
Rating :Agree This company uses spread sheet, fax, phone to share the information.
Rating: Strongly Disagree This company uses spread sheet, fax, phone to share the information.
Rating: Strongly Agree This company visit the supplier every month to discuss about new technology and need for improvement of quality etc.
Rating: Strongly Agree This company visits the supplier every month and helps to solve their problems. Conduct common welfare programmes.
Employee involvement
Level of supply chain collaboration with partners (as per graph theoretic model developed in Chapter 6)
SCCI (000):246.952 Collaborative cordial working relationship. Realize the benefits of building good relationships with its customers and suppliers. SCCI (000):204.838 Collaborative relationship with suppliers. few SCCI (000):148.002 Transactional relationship. working SCCI (000):125.888 Transactional and somewhat adversarial working relationship
7. Conclusions
Fragmented industry structure is the major problem of Indian textile industry with a dominance of small scale. Getting skilled workers is a major challenge. Due to constant growth of the industry in the last few years, the industry is facing severe shortage of labour. People who are migrating from rural areas do not have any prior experience in the industry. Since, there is need for labour, they are asked to take up the work with any prior training (unlike in other garment cluster- Bangalore). Frequent power cuts, increasing pressure on road traffic have put considerable strain on the growth of this cluster. Declining market demand has made a negative impact in the last one year, in the growth of the cluster. In fact, exports from the cluster did not increase, in terms of units during the year 2008-09; in comparison to the previous year. However, the demand in domestic market is still positive. Compared to India, other developing countries like Bangladesh and Sri Lanka which are more productive, at the same time they are paying less wages. Time taken for adoption of new technologies is more in India. Lack of awareness about new technologies and reluctance to introduce them till they are adopted by other firms, Lack of capability to develop new technologies & equipments indigenously are some of weakness of Indian apparel 1107
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industry. To manage threats from the foreign companies, Indian companies have to enhance their brand image and focus on domestic demand, improve labor skill by proper training. Four case studies of Indian apparel companies dealing with supply chain collaboration and management have been presented in this chapter. These case studies have provided some observations about the status of supply chain collaboration in the Indian context. Comparison of case companies increases the understanding of enablers which contributes to successful collaboration. It is observed that collaboration is critical for successful supply chain and organizational performance. It is also observed that collaboration index is positively associated with companys performance. The Indian apparel companies slowly and steadily following global trends of supply chain collaboration. The success of any organization will depend heavily on its ability to meet demands and respond quickly to fluctuations and change. Apparel products are characterized by volatile markets, short product lifecycles and high product variety. Therefore Indian companies in this sector have to be more responsive. It can be can be only achieved by having a high level of collaboration with other partners of the supply chain. Thus there is an urgent need to understand the importance of collaboration in a supply chain perspective and develop a set of strategies to manage them.
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