Danish Serk

Grazia Morgano 1 Febrary AS XLVIII

Abstract This serk (underdress) is based on the construction techniques shown in three fragments (57, 72C, and 55) found in the harbor at Hedeby, in Denmark. Hedeby was a Viking village that existed from the 8th century until it was sacked in 1066. These fragments show that inset sleeves were used in Hedeby. The sleeve fragment shows a curved armscye, similar to that found in modern clothing. The third fragment shows that triangular gores were in use. These fragments show that these were Danish tailoring techniques. Whether these particular fragments were part of a mans shirt or a womans serk is unknown. My serk is hand sewn from linen. The stitching is done in handspun linen thread, using the same size stitches and types of stitches found in the original fragments. The thread is Z-spun, S-plied, as are all the seaming threads in Fragments 57 and 72C. Hilde Thunem reports that Inga H aggs analysis of Hedebys graves shows serks to have commonly been tabby woven, plain and undyed. Several of the serks found in Hedebys graves were linen (Thunem, 2011).

Contents
List of Figures 1 Reconstruction 2 Conclusions 3 4 6

A Archaeology 8 A.1 Fragment 57 - the sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 A.2 Fragment 72C - the shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 A.3 Fragment 55 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Bibliography 12

List of Figures
1.1 Hand-spun linen thread was used . . . . . . . . . . a Spinning sewing thread . . . . . . . . . . . . b Linen sewing thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . Seam nishing on reproduction, showing hem-stitch lowances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . seam al. . . . . . . . . 4 4 4 5 7 7 7

1.2 2.1

Finished work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . a The serk alone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . b The serk worn with a smokkr . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A.1 Diagram of Fragment 57, from H agg, pg 59. The thick lines are the seam lines, showing a 3-piece assembly. The thin lines are what remains after deterioration. . . . . . . . . . . . . . A.2 Line drawing and photo of assembled sleeve fragment . . . . a Drawing of Fragment 57, from H agg, pg 56 . . . . . . b Photo of Fragment 57, from H agg, pg 58 . . . . . . . A.3 Diagram of Fragment 72C, from H agg, pg 48 . . . . . . . . . A.4 Diagram of Fragment 55, from H agg, pg 46 . . . . . . . . . .

. 8 . 9 . 9 . 9 . 10 . 11

1. Reconstruction
I used unbleached, undyed linen for this serk, similar to the fabrics found in Hedebys graves (Thunem, 2011). Because the threads used to sew seams are usually the same type of ber as the fabric (Ewing, 2006, p. 158), and I did not want the stitches to be too visible, I chose to use the linen thread I had already spun. There was not enough, though, so the rst step in construction was spinning some more linen thread (Figures 2.1a and 2.1b).

(a) Spinning sewing thread

(b) Linen sewing thread

Figure 1.1: Hand-spun linen thread was used

A muslin was created, based on measuring the ratios of the reconstructed outlines found in H aggs drawing of the sleeve pieces (see A.1) and shoulder fragment(see A.4). These ratios were scaled up to t my body. The sleeve head was re-drafted for better t (so range of motion would not be restricted), and then the muslin pieces were disassembled and traced onto linen. Unfortunately, some seams were sewn with a single ply of this hand spun linen before I double-checked the information H agg provided and realized it should be a 2-ply thread. Part way through the rst sleeve, I switched to a 2-ply. All seams were sewn with a running stitch and nished with each 4

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seam allowance being individually folded under and hem-stitched (1.2), as shown in H aggs detailed drawing of Fragment 57 (see A.2a). According to the table at the back of H aggs report, stitch lengths on Fragment 57 (the one for which the most information is given) range between 2mm and 7mm, with most seams having stitches between 3mm and 5mm (H agg and Schweppe, 1985, p. 255). The size of the seam allowances are not given.

Figure 1.2: Seam nishing on reproduction, showing hem-stitch seam allowances

2. Conclusions
When I tried on this serk after attaching the sleeves, I was concerned because the elbow piece seems so high. My elbow hits at the bottom of that insert. Then I looked at the diagram again. The worn out area is at the bottom of the elbow piece, suggesting my placement is correct. I am pleased with my draft of the sleeve head and armscye. I have never worked with a curved sleeve head, let alone drafted one, so having a full range of motion feels like an accomplishment.

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(a) The serk alone

(b) The serk worn with a smokkr

Figure 2.1: Finished work

A. Archaeology
A.1 Fragment 57 - the sleeve

Figure A.1: Diagram of Fragment 57, from H agg, pg 59. The thick lines are the seam lines, showing a 3-piece assembly. The thin lines are what remains after deterioration.

The sleeve is made of three pieces. One of these is placed for the elbow, 8

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cut on grain but placed on a slight angle to the sleeve, allowing some bias in movement. There is a 6cm long slit at the wrist (H agg and Schweppe, 1985, p. 55).

(a) Drawing of Fragment 57, from (b) Photo of Fragment 57, from H agg, pg 56 H agg, pg 58 Figure A.2: Line drawing and photo of assembled sleeve fragment

H agg includes a long table of information about seams on this fragment. Overall, seam stitches are 3mm in length, with the occasional aberration (one short seam has some stitches up to 7mm in length). The hem stitches used to tack down the seam allowances are generally 3mm long, sometimes 2mm, sometimes 4mm or 5mm. All seams are sewn with a 2-ply thread, Z-spun, S-plied (H agg and Schweppe, 1985, p. 255).

A.2

Fragment 72C - the shoulder

Two matters of construction are clearly evident from looking at Fragment 72C: the strongly curved armscye, and the scoop neckline. Supporting the idea that the scoop neck would be common in Hedeby are the facts that a brooch to close a keyhole neckline is a rare nd in Hedebys

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graves and that the tortoise brooches in Hedebys graves are placed far apart (Thunem, 2011).

Figure A.3: Diagram of Fragment 72C, from H agg, pg 48

A.3

Fragment 55

H aggs diagram of Fragment 55 is being shown here as evidence of triangular gores being used to provide room for walking.

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Figure A.4: Diagram of Fragment 55, from H agg, pg 46

Bibliography
Thor Ewing. Viking clothing. 9780752435879. Tempus, 2006. ISBN 0752435876

Inga H agg and Helmut Schweppe. Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen von Haithabu. Berichte u ber die Ausgrabungen in Haithabu, Bericht 20. K. Wachholtz, 1985. ISBN 0352919208. Hilde Thunem. Viking women: Clothing: Underdress (serk). http://urd. priv.no/viking/serk.html, 2011. [Online, accessed 6-August-2013].

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