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warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps
WARSAW
October - November 2013
The Royal Route
A walking tour of
Warsaws essential
avenues
Street Art
Where to find the
capitals best murals
All Saints Day
Experience one of
PLs most poignant
traditions
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
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uI. Chocimska 7, Warszava
leI. 22 848 12 25, leI./fax 22 848 15 90
vvv.reslaurac|arozana.com.I
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is an eIeganl, cosy and
unrelenlious reslauranl vhose deIicale and
Iighl IoIish cuisine viII surrise you vilh nev
avours and seciaIlies every day.
There is nolhing eIse Iike il in Warsav.
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
4
Warsaw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Features
The Royal Route 8
All Saints Day 10
Arrival & Transport 12
The Basics 17
Culture & Events 20
Hotels 27
Restaurants 32
Cafs 57
Nightlife 58
History 70
Sightseeing
Essential Warsaw 72
Sightseeing 73
Palace of Culture and Science 85
Old Town 86
Praga 88
Elektoralna & Chodna 90
Warsaw Uprising 92
Jewish Warsaw 96
Treblinka 99
azienki 100
Wilanw 102
Chopin 105
Copernicus Science Centre 108
Further Afield
d 110
Leisure 112
Shopping 114
Directory 120
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 123
City Map 124
Country Map 126
Street Index 128
Listings Index 129
Feature Index 130
Contents
The Polish capital is full of street art and wall murals, both
old and new, with more seeming to appear each day. Some
of the city centres most prominent examples youll now find
marked with a symbol on the maps in the back of this
guide so you can check them out on your own, including
the convoluted ( just like Polish history!) layers of this PRL-
era wall mural on ul. Wolska (pictured). Turn to page 74 for
more info and photos. Photo by Mat Fahrenholz.
The Trakt Krlewski, or Royal Route, has been a well-trod-
den path of Kings and visitors for centuries and connects
the Old Towns Royal Castle to the Wilanw Palace on the
edge of the city. Encompassing many of Warsaws most
popular tourist attractions its a must for any visitor. We
dont know if this bear walked the 8km from Wilanw or
the 3km from the Old Town but it seems he had to stop
and rest his weary paws en route under the famous plastic
palm on the corner of Nowy wiat! Get keyed up on what
to see along Warsaws essential tourist track by turning to
page 8. Photo by Mat Fahrenholz.
6
Warsaw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Copyright Notice
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP
Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k.
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reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
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(+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOEM
The rather short but extreme Polish summer suddenly
seems like a long and distant memory as Warsaw has
casually slipped into its autumn mode. The beer gardens
and terraces are rapidly disappearing and we like to think
of the atmosphere of being more like a glorious Scottish
summer - wind, rain and temperatures around the 10
degree mark. Being neither prohibitively hot nor cold, this
is a great time of year to wander the streets and take in
both the indoor and outdoor classic tourist attractions of
the city. Spend an afternoon at the award-winning Warsaw
Uprising Museum (page 94), the fun-packed Copernicus
Science Centre (page 108), or occupy yourself strolling
around in search of Warsaws fascinating old and new
street art and mural scene - check out our introductory
box on the subject by turning to page 74, before using the
maps in the back of our guide to go on a self-guided tour;
just look for the symbol.
Art buffs should also try to visit the splendid In God We
Trust show at the Zachta National Gallery of Art (page
20). Running until November 11th, the exhibition is already
raising eyebrows amongst some elements of the local
populace with its contemporary take on religious imagery,
and includes works by David La Chapelle, Andres Serrano
and Bill Viola. Take five by also visiting the Gallerys brilliant
Po Prostu Art Bistro (page 38).
If you happen to be here on November 1st youll witness
All Saints Day - one of PLs most poignant holidays. This
traditional Catholic celebration sees almost the entire
population stop everything and visit cemeteries around
the country in order to remember all those who have left
us. People leave flowers and light candles in coloured
glass jars on and around graves, and once darkness falls
the atmosphere created by the hundreds of thousands
of candles is simultaneously sombre, beautiful, and most
certainly memorable. On page 10 weve listed all the local
Catholic cemeteries, but the one we most recommend is
Powzki - Warsaws oldest and most beautiful boneyard,
and the final resting place of many famous historical figures.
As always, we hope that your visit to our city is an inspiration
which makes you want to come back and visit us again soon.
Like us on facebook (facebook.com/warsawinyourpocket),
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The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of
the information in this guide at the time of going to press
and assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes,
errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers.
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Writer Mat Fahrenholz
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Researchers Oli wia Hojan,
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October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Nowy wiat. Created by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the palm
links the fauna of the city of Jerusalem with its namesake
avenue Jerozolimskie in Warsaw. Before reaching the palm
tree, however, one must stop off at an oasis, and there is no
place better than the legendary rat-like maze of Pawilony
(The Pavilions) located behind the gates at number 22. Klaps
(ul. Nowy wiat 22/28, Pavilion 12a, C-4) is a cant-miss
experience if you like your dcor to include a wall of plastic
boobs and beer taps crowned with vibrators!
Before crossing the busy roundabout keep your eyes peeled
for a poignant Socialist Realist mural of a girl holding a
pistol - one of the earliest tributes to the Warsaw Uprising.
Once safely across de Gaulle roundabout, you will be greeted
by a monument to the great General himself. Behind him
stands the hulking edifice of the former Communist HQ
at Nowy wiat 6 (C-4). Completed in 1948, rumours that it
was secretly connected by a tunnel to the Palace of Culture
appear unsubstantiated, but you have to love the irony that
it briefly served as home to the stock exchange; today the
building hosts numerous offices, a Ferrari dealership and
Cuda na Kiju - one of Warsaws best real ale multi-tap bars.
Scurry along this fairly uninspiring stretch of Nowy Swiat to
Pl. Trzech Krzyy (C-4), home to the beautiful 19
th
century
classical style St. Alexanders Church (ul. Ksica 21,
C-4). The surrounding area is home to some of Warsaws top
boutiques, including the likes of Burberry, Zegna and Escada.
THE ROYAL ROUTE
8
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
THE ROYAL ROUTE
Warsaws famed Royal Route links the citys three Royal
residences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy,
via azienki Parks Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanw
Palace in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in
length, this main artery through the city takes in a great
range of Warsaws historic buildings, parks, churches and
monuments, making a trek down the path of the Kings
is a must-do part of any visit to the city. The heart of the
route, along Krakowskie Przedmiecie and Nowy wiat, will
also lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of
hostelries, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the
further out parts of the route may not be anything to write
home about, but it really is worth making the effort in order
to visit the beautiful Wilanw Palace, gardens and parkland.
We let you know what not to miss in our walking tour below.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Krakowskie Przedmiecie is easily one of Polands most
prestigious and well-known streets. It stretches from the
Royal Castle (Pl. Zamkowy 4, B-2) in the Old Town until
it blends into ul. Nowy wiat. With the Royal Castle and
Old Town covered extensively elsewhere in the guide (see
Sightseeing), we begin our stroll from the sabre-rattling King
Sigismunds Column just outside the Castle. This popular
meeting point sees its steps regularly visited by buskers,
tourists and white-gowned brides in search of memorable
snaps. From this point head to St. Annes (ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 68, B-2), a neo-classical effort that survived the
war but came within a whisker of collapse when work on the
W-Z street tunnel in 1949 caused several landslides; it took a
team of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations and
stabilise the soil, but the real hero of the hour was Romauld
Cebertowicz - a professor who invented a way of solidifying
the soil via the use of electrical currents. The interior of St.
Annes is fine, but the real reason for visiting is the viewing
platform, which offers impressive views of the Old Town
and a distant shot of the red and white National Stadium.
A short stroll will take you to the Adam Mickiewicz
monument (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5, B-2). This statue
was erected in 1898 - the centenary of the birth of Polands
best-loved bard. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian
repression the very creation of his likeness was regarded
as something of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic
Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just
behind Mr. Mickiewicz is a 1784 pink building recognisable for
having a chunk missing from its facade, and the 17th century
Carmelite Church next door (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
52/54, B-2) is one of the best examples of the classical style
to be found in Poland.
Stop for photos by the stone lions and stern looking guards
outside the Presidential Palace (ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
46/48, C-2). Construction on the palace began in 1643 at the
behest of Stanisaw Koniecpolski, although he died before it
was completed. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century it became the famed venue
for lavish society banquets - none being more extravagant
than the party held to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw
II August Poniatowski in 1789, when the astounding sum of
over two million zoty was spent entertaining 4,000 guests.
Some will say it was money well spent; Poniatowski proved
to be one of Polands finest monarchs and the constitution of
May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as
Europes first. When Poland regained independence in 1918
the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as
home to the Polish Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers.
It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the
Warsaw Pact the Soviet Unions answer to NATO was
ratified within its walls. In 1989 round table talks between
the communists and the opposition were held here, paving
the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed
as the official home of the Polish President though current
president Bronisaw Komorowski has opted to reside at the
Belvedere Palace (ul. Belwederska 56, G-5).
The Prez obviously needs classy neighbours, so next door
youll find the elegant and recently overhauled Bristol Hotel
(ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44, C-2). A brass plaque
boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and
Dietrich, to name but a few. Across the street, the current
building of the Ministry of Culture and Art (ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 15) is also home to its own historical factoid - it
was here that Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska
at a ball held in his honour.
From Plac Trzech Krzyy (C-4), Warsaws royal route
continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowskie
past the Ujazdowskie and azienki Parks (G-4), down
ul. Belwederska (G-5), ul. Sobieskiego (H-6) and Aleja
Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanw Palace - the
17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski.
While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isnt realistic,
or especially rewarding, azienki and Wilanw are both
required visits for getting a broader sense of Warsaws
history and former glory as the grand capital of a vast
and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to
the Black Sea. We detail both destinations extensively
further on in our Sightseeing section, and though both
could occupy the better part of a day on their own, you
can also easily continue your tour from the bus stop at
the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyy. To get to azienki
Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116, 166 or 180
and get off two stops later at azienki Krlewskie.
For Wilanw, take bus 116, 180 or E-2 and get off
at Wilanw 25mins later.
Further On
Plac Zamkowy
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Adam Mickiewicz monument
ul. Foksal
Why all the young, fresh faced kids? Well, youre in Warsaw
University-land. The Unis main campus lies behind the
grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 26/28 (C-2).
Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as
Villa Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times
before Warsaw U was established here in 1819. The uni
had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation
for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate
underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough
to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today,
with some 57,000 students on the roll call, the university
stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland.
Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir,
writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning journalist Ryszard
Kapuciski, the late president Lech Kaczyski and poet
Julian Tuwim.
Head across the street to visit the Church of the Holy Cross
(ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, C-3). This is the famed final
resting place of Fryderyk Chopins heart, which was sealed
in an urn at his own request and placed behind a tablet
featuring his likeness, becoming a place of pilgrimage for
his legions of fans. Finish your Krakowskie Przedmiecie
wander with a visit to the Nicolaus Copernicus monument,
located opposite the church, appropriately seated in front
of the Polish Academy of Sciences (ul. Nowy wiat 72, C-3).
The monument was unveiled in 1830 and has seen plenty
of action, particularly during WWII when the Nazis added
a bronze plaque suggesting the astronomer was actually
German. In 1942 a brave boy scout removed the plaque,
causing the Nazis to remove the monument and bomb
several others as retribution. Fortunately Copernicus was
recovered and restored following the war. The controversial
plaque can now be seen in the Historical Museum of Warsaw
(Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1).
Nowy wiat
Nip across the ul. witokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie
Przedmiecie suddenly becomes the New World! The story
of ul. Nowy wiat (New World Street) dates back to medieval
times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between
Warsaw and Krakw, with the first settlements appearing in
the area during the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the
street found itself rebuilt in rather uniform neo-classical style,
as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war style
was simply unfeasible. Nowy wiat, along with its little off-
shoot streets, has long been seen as one of THE places to
be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries.
Expect a myriad of modern and traditional restaurants and
coffee shops, including the popular Bierhalle microbrewery
which makes an ideal pitstop at ul. Nowy wiat 64 (C-3),
before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult
writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at number 45. If its
too early in the day for a hefty German style beer, drop into
the renowned Caf Blikle (ul. Nowy wiat 33, C-3), famous
for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed
Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will find super
trendy ul. Foksal (C-3) for more gastronomic and drinking
opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace
(ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by
Marconi and the scene of a botched assassination attempt
on the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops
reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the
window, though nowadays the drama is limited to dancing
in the basement club or dining on the elegant ground floor.
Back onto Nowy wiat you should now be in sight of our
citys famous plastic palm tree which stands on the de
Gaulle roundabout at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie and
10
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ALL SAINTS DAY
Readers expecting a wild Halloween full of costume parties
and debauchery may be surprised to learn that in Poland the
holiday is completely overshadowed by the rather sobering,
sombre proceedings of November 1st and 2nd every year.
Known nationally as All Saints Day (Dzie Wszystkich
witych) and All Souls Day (Dzie Zaduszny, or Dzie
Wszystkich Zmarych) respectively, these two days of the
calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute
to the deceased by visiting their graves. In accordance
with tradition, Catholic families all over Poland will make
pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending
the graves with a care that is truly touching, before laying
wreaths, flowers and candles that will be kept lit throughout
the length of the holiday. As night descends, the countrys
graveyards are aglow with the warm light of literally thou-
sands of flickering candles, creating an eerie, incredibly
evocative atmosphere that should not be missed by anyone
with a heart that still beats.
Like so many customs incorporated into Catholicism, this
tradition actually has pagan roots. After All Saints Day was
established as a holy day of obligation in 835, Saint Odilon
had the bright idea in 998 of designating November 2nd as All
Souls Day to replace the ancient Slavic tradition of Dziady.
During Dziady (literally, Forefathers), the living would prepare
an elaborate feast to host the souls of those who had passed,
believing that on this day they were able to leave the afterlife
and return to their families. Places were set at the table for
the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing
them the way to the house. A soul forgotten at Dziady would
bring on bad luck. [For this reason we challenge you to find
an unloved grave, however unlikely, and light a candle there.]
As one of Polands most important public holidays, only
public transportation and emergency response employees
as obliged to work on November 1st (which falls on a Friday
in 2013), so dont be surprised to find your favourite shop,
restaurant or bar bolted shut. Warsaws Catholic cemeter-
ies, in contrast, will be open until last guest, and weve
listed those in the centre below so that you too can join in
this inspiring tradition. Also dont forget to visit the various
monuments to Polish martyrdom such as the Warsaw Upris-
ing memorial on ul. Duga.
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz ewan-
gelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Mynarska 54/56/58.
Designed by Szymon Bogumi Zug in 1792 this treasure
contains the elaborate tombs of countless movers and shak-
ers. Those interred include Samuel Bogumi Linde - author of
Polands first dictionary - and Polands version of the Willie
Wonka family: the Wedels. Highlights include a cast iron
chapel dating from 1821.
Brdno Cemetery (Cmentarz Brdnowski) ul.
w. Wincentego 83 (Brdno). Polands biggest cemetery
serves the whole of Warsaw, and while other cemeteries
pride themselves on the sombre nature of the All Saints
celebration this place takes on a bit of an entrepreneurial
atmosphere - you may be surprised to find an array of stalls
springing up outside, and a mini-market selling not just
candles and flowers but plastic necklaces, slippers and
other detritus that come in handy when visiting the dead.
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz ewan-
gelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. ytnia 42. As well
as containing the remains of writer Stefan eromski, this
cemetery is also the resting place of the youngest victim of
Pawiak Prison and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold
aged six months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style
inscriptions on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the
Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for one
of Warsaws most famed industrialists.
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz onierzy
Woskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally established
in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of 868 soldiers
killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a further 1,415 killed
during the course of WWII. Maintained by the Italian Embassy
the cemetery features an entry gate complete with legionnaire
shields, and a central avenue leading to a grandiose monument.
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny
Pnocny) ul. Wycickiego 14 (Bielany). One of Europes
largest cemeteries (so big golf buggies zip around to help
people get around), and a relatively new addition to the city.
Created in 1973 this vast graveyard contains over 135,000
graves, including those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII
casualties, and the bodies of those killed in Polands biggest air
disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the city limits.
Powzki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz Powzki)
D-1, ul. Powzkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22 838 55 25. If
youre to visit one cemetery, make it this one. Founded in
1790 this is the oldest cemetery in the city, and with close
to a million bodies interred one its biggest. Lushly shielded
by vegetation and filled with elaborate tombs this is the most
picturesque of all Polands cemeteries, as well as the resting
place for countless eminent Poles. The Avenue of Merit is
a whos who of famous Poles, and those buried in Powzki
include Stalinist puppet Boleslaw Bierut, author Tadeusz
Borowski, revolutionary Jan Kiliski, Chopins parents, avia-
tor Franciszek wirko, thespian Leon Schiller and Nobel prize
winner Wadysaw Reymont. It also contains the grave of
Stefan Starzyski, the mayor of Warsaw at the time of the
German invasion. His body was never recovered after he was
detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of the cemetery are
taken up by Home Army soldiers killed during the Uprising.
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum
onierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. wirki i Wigury 10.
Dominated by a huge needle like monument this is one of the
first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way from the airport. The
towering monument features some interesting socialist reliefs
depicting Red Army troops liberating Polish civilians, and the
inscription reads To the memory of the soldiers lost in the
liberation of Poland 1944-1945. Mass graves containing the
remains of 20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.
War saw Upr i si ng Cemeter y (Cment ar z
Powstacw Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176 (Wola).
Approximately 40,000 participants in the 44 Uprising are
buried here, their resting places marked with wood graves
and red and white sashes.
PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAW
TEL. +48 601 81 82 83
[email protected]
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
9
8
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B-4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from
foreign mobile phones). Warsaw Central Station
(Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin:
central. And thanks to recent renovations were happy to
say its now easy to navigate as well. Centralna is looking
better than it ever has with new storefronts and modern
upgrades that will impress those whove been away for a
while. From alighting the train you should take one of the
two facing escalators (if theyre working) in the centre of
the platform, which will lead you up into one of the un-
derground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever
side you come up on you will be one level below ground
level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the
underground passageway between Centralna and the
Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere,
and though once sparse the machines can be spotted
at almost every turn.
Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace
of Culture - just look for the i sign (Open 08:00-20:00).
They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the
public transport system can be bought from most of
the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the
underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look
for Przechowalnia Bagau, where stewards will look after
your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Connect
to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid
cards from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi
ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road
youll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the
signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may
never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE
taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and
SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Zote Tarasy side.
On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish
rail. Find it on the Zote Tarasy side of the building to the
right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under
the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.
intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:30, the multi-lingual
staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search for the
cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and
domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Cen-
tralna has improved dramatically with the renovations.
Head to Green Coffee, Starbucks or Coffee Heaven for
a range of good coffee or hot and cold snacks which
are available to takeaway while McDonalds can also
be found by following one of the many signs. I f you
have time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can be
reached via the underground passageway and offers
a far better place to sit and wait than the station itsel f,
as does the nearby Zote Tarasy shopping centre.
Dont be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used as
a drop-in centre by Warsaws homeless population -
while most are harmless some like to pass their time
being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish
rail staff manning the ticket booths are mono-lingual,
the tramps in Centralna seem adept at begging in a
multitude of tongues. Q Open 24hrs. Note that due
to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
made between 00:00 - 01:00.
Warszawa Centralna
The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape
even if the rolling stock is by and large something you
may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly
better than Britains railways; youll find most trains run
on time, are cheap, and dont crash. Travelling times
are generally pretty slow even on Intercity trains with
limited high-speed sections of track throughout the
country. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing
increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by
western standards very cheap with a first -class ticket
to Krakw from Warsaw for instance setting you back
about 150z (about 40).
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several
types of train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fast-
est, newest and most expensive of the lot, with first and
second class compartments holding up to six people
and seat reservations required. New rolling stock is
appearing with open carriages and 230v AV sockets.
The Express (EX) train is less modern than the EIC
but still considered expensive, and also requires seat
reservations. The EuroCity (EC) trains offer international
connections and seat reservations as well. Cheapskates
looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper
Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK) which has second class seats
that often require no seat reservation and first class
seats that do; the InterREGIO (IR) trains, which are the
cheapest, have only second class seats and require no
reservation; and the REGIOekspres (RE) which no longer
has seat reservations available online. With the budget
options you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your
journey is guaranteed to try your good humour.
More information on train times and prices check the very
useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English option.
There is the functionality to book tickets online once you
have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp).
This option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one
without the hassle of queuing at the station.
If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train
station then youll be pleased to hear you can hop on the
desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor.
Youll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 15z), and
credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected
to greet others in their compartment with a curt dzie
dobry, and it is taken as given that a male passengers
will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.
Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may
have the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a
woman who has no qualms with silencing errant chil-
dren with a thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing
a compartment with perky army discharges. Upgrading
to first class for a cursory fee is usually enough to avoid
these pitfalls.
Finally most stations throughout the country are ap-
pallingly lacking in signs denoting the station name and
its surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating
with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and
frustration.
Arrivals Przyjazdy
Departures Odjazdy
Platform Peron
Train Smarts By Train
Warsaws main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal
giant that sits conveniently in the citys center and is the main
hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers
may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the
eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Pnoc and
Praga Poudnie districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the
border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul.
Kijowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
mobile phones). Q Open 24hrs. Note that due to system
maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between
00:00 - 01:00.
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D- 4, ul.
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
mobile phones). Q Ticket office open from 03:30 - 24:00.
By Car
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has ex-
tensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said
that the competition on the roads front isnt fierce. Roads
leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway
standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traf-
fic can become a serious problem - particularly during the
week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and
you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train
Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour,
the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area
is generally available on-street where there are standard
parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major
hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be
warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best
especially if you have driven in western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor
road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration
for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car
wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control
irresponsible driving, and dont be surprised to see cars
shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking
a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways.
Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for
drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter
of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit,
warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right
and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost
you 200z (for using a mobile), 100z (not wearing a seat
belt) and up to 500z for speeding. The legal limit for drink
driving is 0.2 blood/alcohol level. Put simply, i f youre
driving, dont drink.
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as
they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify
the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will
find their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone
we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license
and passport at all times when driving.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be
switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Sofitel War-
saw Victoria Hotel). The underground parking is guarded
while the other parking is supervised.
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By Plane
Getting in and out of Warsaw by plane improved drastically
in recent times. The capitals main air hub - Chopin Airport
- got a modern overhaul, while budget carriers moved in at
the new Modlin Airport just northwest of the city. That was
until winter came and the Modlin runway cracked apart
(bravo). It has now finally been repaired, but the wise men
at WizzAir prefer to remain at Chopin, while Ryanair resumed
operations at Modlin in September.
Warsaw Chopin Airport (Lotnisko Chopina w
Warszawie) ul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22
650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl. Warsaw Chopin
Airport has recently seen the opening of Zone CDE, a glass
and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older
Zone AB (which is currently under major renovation and
therefore closed). Collectively they are called Terminal A,
Car Rental
Budget ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Air-
port), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.
com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Hertz ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at (F-3) ul. Nowogrodzka
27 (Open 09:00 - 15:00, Mon, Fri 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00
- 12:00. Closed Sun.) QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszakowska 140, tel.
(+48) 501 21 61 93, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Avis ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
48 72, www.avis.pl. Avi s
provide short-term and long-
term rentals, chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van
rentals. Theres over 1,000 models available, equipped
with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaranteed
comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and swap
cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel)
and ul. opuszaska 12a (Wochy). QOpen 07:00 - 23:30.
Europcar ul. wirki i
Wigury 1 (Airport), tel.
(+48) 22 650 25 64,
www.europcar.pl. One of the worlds biggest car rental
companies offers rental solutions tailor made for travellers
(both short and long term) that will suit all needs (15 different
categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all
Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europ-
car creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual
mobility needs. Note that the Radisson Blue Sobieski is a
meeting point (cars can be picked up and dropped off here).
At press time it was unclear if there would be an outpost at
Modlin Airport. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Oko-
powa 47, tel. (+48)
609 18 10 20,
www.joka.com.pl.
A wide range of cars from the Fiat Panda to the spa-
cious Mercedes E-class. All cars are equipped with
power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems
are also available. Special rates offered to those who
order through the Joka website, and go online to find
the l atest seasonal promoti ons. Q Open 09:00-
17: 00, Sat 09: 00-12: 00. Outsi de of these hours
open on request.
Sixt ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of
the worlds largest and oldest
car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from
short and long rental periods to holiday cars. Theres
even a fleet of limousines if youre interested. Vehicles
range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include
GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4,
InterContinental Hotel). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
and the spacious CDE now handles all incoming and out-
going traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses
ATMs, exchange offices, tourist info, coffee shops and
snack marts.
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certi fied
companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30
minute ride to the centre costs around 30-45z, though
be on guard for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge
three or four times that. After hearing several complaints,
we suggest agreeing on the price with your driver before
setting off.
Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or
get bus number 175.
The train station can be found underground by turning
right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and
going all the way to the end of the covered section where
you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths.
The SKM trains run three times per hour and are red and
white in colour. Line S2 takes you to rdmiecie station
in the city centre, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa
Centralna station. To take one of these trains you need a
normal public transport ticket (exactly the same as what
youd use for the bus) that are available from the ticket
booths and cost 4.40z. The KM trains run once per hour,
are green and white, and will take you to Centralna. They
have their own ticket office at the station with a fixed price
of 5,5zl, but you can use an SKM ticket here as long as you
have the train driver validate it. Got that? The train ride
should take around 20 minutes. Bus stops can be found
in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Tickets for
the bus are also 4.40z (be sure to validate). Buses run
frequentl y between 04:57 and 22:57 with j ourney time
taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175
stops running travellers can take the N32 night bus, which
runs every 30 minutes.
Warsaw Shuttle, tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.
warsawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport
transfer services at competitive prices from 79PLN per run.
Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance
to book.
Warszawa Lotnisko Chopina Train Station ul.
wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport). The new rail way station
connecting the airport and the city centre can be found by
exiting the arrivals hall in either terminal and turning right.
The underground station can be accessed by escalators
found just after the covered area outside the terminals.
See By Plane for information on train destinations, ticket
prices and frequency.
The days when cash bells would
ring whenever a cab driver would
hear a foreign accent might have
passed, but its still always bet-
ter to ring ahead rather than
just hailing a taxi in the street.
In particular be vigilant when taking a cab to the centre
from the arrivals hall of the airport; weve heard plenty of
horror stories. The accepted fare from Warsaw Chopin
Airport to the centre is 35-40z; we suggest that you
agree upon this price with your driver before setting off
in order to ensure avoiding any shenanigans.
All the companies we list will usually have someone on
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-
run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation, but you
wont find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis
on the Marriott tower side of the central station; its the
second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your
driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the
countryside then by all means, feel free.
Ele Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
Halo Taxi OK, tel. (+48) 22 196 23,
www.halotaxiok.pl.
Merc Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, www.6777777.pl.
MPT, tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
Sawa Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,
www.sawataxi.com.pl.
Super Taxi, tel. (+48) 22 196 22,
www.supertaxi.pl.
Taxis
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Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ments; if there is any doubt about the value or age of your
purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat (antiques
dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug
convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our
residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without
a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If
they dont have one the best place to pick one up is at one
of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of
town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in
the airport as you leave.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an
ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the police.
Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the
relevant department. English speaking assistance is not
necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabili-
ties of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in
distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both
numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line
and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your
stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during
the high-tourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If its a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Li thuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km it
is Polands longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdask
(Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2012)
Poland: 38,533,299
Warsaw: 1,715,517
Krakw: 758,334
d: 718,960
Wrocaw: 631,188
Pozna: 550,742
Gdask: 460,427
Katowice: 307,233
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
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60
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80
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
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Rainfall
Temperature
Climate
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold
winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the
west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter
and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends
to hit around February although the long winter of 2009/10
saw a record low temperature in Poland of -32 degrees. Be-
low is a graphic showing average temperatures and rainfall.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be both
less than 50 years old and under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos 6,000z, other art 16,000z, for
example); if these conditions are met, the gallery curator can
then provide you with a zawiadczenie (permission docu-
ment) describing the artworks price and when and where it
was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value,
you must get permission from the Wojewdzki Konserwator
Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office) to take it out of Poland;
bear in mind that this process will likely take 2-3 months.
Books must be less than 100 years old and under 6,000z in
value in order to leave the country; if neither applies, permis-
sion must be obtained from the National Library. Obviously,
problems arise when purchases are made at bazaars or flea
markets where vendors cannot provide the necessary docu-
By Bus
If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are youll be landing
at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget
options like PolskiBus drop passengers off at Dworzec
Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the
Metro Wilanowska stop.
Mai n Bus Stati on (Dwor zec Autobusowy
Warszawa Zachodnia) D- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie
144, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbil ety.
pl . Coaches arri ve and depar t - unl ess other wi se
stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Stati on (Dworzec
Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodni a). Fi nd a currency
exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machi nes l ocated
i n the mai n hal l. There i s no Touri st I nfo poi nt, for the
cl osest youl l have to make the j ourney i nto the Pal ace
of Cul ture, Pl. Defi l ad 1 (entrance from ul. Emi l l Pl ater).
Theres a l egi ti mate l eft-l uggage operati on, as wel l as
fi ve payphones l ocated i n one of the si de corri dors
(though youl l need to buy phone cards to use them).
You can do that by visi ti ng one of the Relay ki osks i n the
mai n hal l. Youl l al so be abl e to buy SI M cards, prepai d
cards and transport cards from here. Taxis to centre run
between 20-25zl (refuse a l i ft from any of the smi l i ng
unl i censed operators who of fer you a l i ft). The bus run-
ni ng to the centre i s found ri ght across a busy hi ghway
and getti ng there i s an adventure i n i tsel f seei ng there
are no si gnposts i n the subway l eadi ng there. Basi cal l y
from the mai n hal l duck down under the si gn sayi ng
Dworzec PKP, head down the stai rs, turn ri ght, fol l ow
the corri dor to i ts concl usi on, turn ri ght agai n - youl l
see two stai rwel l s l eadi ng to the sur face. Take the l eft
one and presto, theres your bus stop. Confused? Not
hal f as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get
to Central Stati on take bus number 127,158 or 517. At
ni ght youl l be needi ng and N35 or N85. The j ourney
takes approxi matel y 15 mi nutes so buy a 3,40z ti cket
val i d for 20 mi nutes. Remember to val i date your ti cket
on boardi ng. Q Ti cket of fi ce open 05:30 - 22:00.
Ever y si ngl e st reet
i n Warsaw i s cl earl y
marked by a number
of well-positioned and
hi ghl y vi si bl e street
signs. It is almost impossible to go more than 100
metres in Warsaw without knowing what street you are
on. Whats more, the signs are almost always colour
coded: each area of the capital has its own colour. As
a visitor you are most likely to see blue signs (for the
south and south-central part of the city) and brown
(for the northern part of the city centre, and Old Town).
But theres far more hel pful i nformati on on those
street signs than the mere street name, however. I f
you look closely, the vast majority of also include the
numbers of the building in the block to which they are
attached. Whats more, there will often be an arrow
showing whi ch way the numbers climb. As anyone
looking for ul. Marszalkowska 135 (or such like) will
know, Warsaws central boulevards are incredibly long,
and knowing which way to go makes li fe much, much
easier. Whoever it was who decided to invest in the
street signs (and they have been up for some time
now, certainly for more than a decade) we hope that
they became rich and famous.
Street Signs
PolskiBus ul. Puawska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy
Metro Wilanowska, s.14), www.polskibus.com. Note
that the Warsaw-Gdask route leaves from Metro Mociny.
Private Transport
Helicopter.pl ul. Ksiycowa 3 (Bielany), Bldg #15,
tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl. Why travel
with the masses when you can opt for your own private
flight in a helicopter? Helicopter.pl offers flights throughout
Poland via hubs in Warsaw and Wrocaw. Flights take place
in Eurocopters, which are renowned for their safety and
modern design. Provide the number of people (and luggage)
as well as your desired destination to the staff and theyll
draw up a quote.
Public Transport
www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw
has an extensi ve bus and
tram system criss-crossing
the city as well as a good, but
very limited, metro system
running from north to south.
Over 1,500 buses operate in
and around the city, and most
run from between 05:00 and
23:00. After that night buses
run on most routes twi ce
every hour. All night buses
display the letter N, followed
by a two digit number. Fast
buses (marked with red dig-
its) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow
RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There
are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions
in English dotted around the city, and English translations
are printed on tickets.
A standard public transport single ticket costs 4.40z.
If youre travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw youll be
needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are
priced at 7z. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us?
Good. Tickets are also available for specific time periods and
come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These are priced at
3.40z, 4.60z and 6.40z. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced
at 15 or 24z i f travelling through both zones. Three day
tickets cost 30z or 48z for both zones. Children ride free
until the end of the August of the year they turn 7. (Re-
ally. Probably makes sense with vodka. Have proof of age ID
handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of
an ISIC card (in which case you must be 26 and under). This
entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs
approximately 50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must
have exact change. Once youve got a ticket you will need to
validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating
the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be
done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy
an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain
clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out
220z for those without valid tickets (we understand quick
payment results in the fine being lessened). They often dont
look very official and you are within your rights to request
identification, or even do as the locals do, and attempt to
bargain them down.
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Post
Central Post Office (UP Warszawa 1) A-3, ul.
witokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22 505 32 18, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Post Office (UP Warszawa 15) C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy
13, tel. (+48) 22 629 72 69, www.poczta-polska.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Public Toilets
2theloo A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa Cen-
tralna Train Station), www.2theloo.com.
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51.
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 22/24.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genu-
ine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many
Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly
started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern
Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes
Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-
going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a
bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent
processions that occur from time to time and the droves
that flock to mass.
Water
Water in Poland is officially safe to drink although the qual-
ity of plumbing in many places can affect the quality of the
water that is delivered from your tap. We therefore recom-
mend that you use bottled water which is widely available
and inexpensive. The best known bottled local brands are
ywiec, Cisowianka, Kropla Beskidu and Naczowianka. In
restaurants many tourists are surprised to find a glass of
water is not compulsory, and ordering some typically results
in the receipt of a tiny glass bottle that will barely wet your
whistle. Beer is often a better bet since its cheaper and ar-
rives in larger quantities, but if youre set on having water its
best to learn the difference between gazowana (carbonated
water) and niegazowana (still water).
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have ' forgotten' the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Krakw and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic pronunciation:
'' sounds like 'on' in the French 'bon'
'' sounds like 'en' as in the French 'bien'
'' is an open 'o' sound like 'oo' in 'boot'
'c' like the 'ts' in 'bits''
'j' like the 'y' in 'yeah'
'w' is pronounced like the English 'v'
'' like the 'w' in 'win'
'' like the 'ny' in 'canyon'
'cz' and '' like the 'ch' in 'beach'
'dz' like the 'ds' in 'beds'
'rz' and '' like the 'su' in 'treasure'
'sz' and '' like the 'sh' in 'ship'
'drz' like the 'g' in 'George'
'r' is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Prosz (Prosheh)
Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)
I'm from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak
English?
Czy mwisz po
angielsku?
(Che moo-veesh po
an-gyel-skoo?)
I don't speak
Polish.
Nie mwi po
polsku.
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po
pol-skoo.)
I don't understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beauti ful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham ci. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me
home.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh
mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)
Language Smarts
drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience which
will set you back 250z for an up to 24 hour stay. In return for
your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and
the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention
a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course).
The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by
jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesnt
respect) jaywalking laws, youll be surprised to see a crowd
of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the
lights to change. This peculiarity has extra effect if you are
aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a
vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The
reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact
that the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give
you a 50-100z fine for crossing a road at a place where no
crossing is marked or a 100z fine when the walk light is
red. And dont think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor.
You are subject to the law too and your non-residency means
you will need to pay the fine on the spot.
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and
bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as
coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes
come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 zotys,
and there are 1, 2 and 5 zoty coins. One zoty equals 100
groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you will
also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your
ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the
banks in your home country or the ATM although for obvious
reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations
and close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you
with the best rate. The Polish currency has been exceedingly
strong in recent years and the value of the dollar has nearly
halved while you will be getting 25-40% less zoty for your
euros and sterling than a couple of years back. Having said
that prices for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still
remain comparatively cheap in contrast to Western Europe.
A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than
20z while admission to most museums costs around 5-10z.
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of September 19, 2013
based on 1 = 4.19z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 9.20 z 2.20
Snickers 1.59 z 0.38
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.49 z 5.61
0.5ltr beer (shop) 3.39 z 0.81
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.15
Loaf of white bread 2.79 z 0.67
20 Marlboros 13.60 z 3.25
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 6.07 z 1.45
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.40 z 1.05
Market Values
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1, 2014 New Years Day
January 6, 2014 Three Kings
April 20, 2014 Easter Sunday
April 21, 2014 Easter Monday
May 1, 2014 Labour Day
May 3, 2014 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
June 8, 2014 Pentecost Sunday
June 19, 2014 Corpus Christi
August 15, 2014 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin
Mary, also Polish Army Day
National Holidays
PLN US$ Euro Pound
3.14z = $1 4.19z = 1 5.01z = 1
1 z $0.32 0.24 0.20
2 z $0.64 0.48 0.40
3 z $0.96 0.72 0.60
4 z $1.27 0.95 0.80
5 z $1.59 1.19 1.00
6 z $1.91 1.43 1.20
7 z $2.23 1.67 1.40
8 z $2.55 1.91 1.60
9 z $2.87 2.15 1.80
10 z $3.18 2.39 2.00
20 z $6.37 4.77 3.99
50 z $15.92 11.93 9.98
100 z $31.85 23.87 19.96
150 z $47.77 35.80 29.94
200 z $63.69 47.73 39.92
250 z $79.62 59.67 49.90
1 000 z $318.47 238.66 199.60
Quick Currency Convertor
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every caf and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favorite bartender or barista with a
simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu If you dont have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Arena F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 5, tel. (+48) 22 629 07 76.
The first hour of Internet use is 6 z, each additional hour is
4 z. Q Open 24hrs.
Cyber Cafe ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Marri-
ott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.courtyardwarsawair-
port.com. Polands best internet cafe. Seating sixty people
the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access,
as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame.
QOpen 07:30 - 23:00.
Law & Order
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If youre
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park.
Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using
clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around
the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state
company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and
their switchboard features English speaking operators. The
vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are
by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaws right bank
has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation,
though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel
and drink accordingly. If youre determined to make an idiot of
yourself then make sure its not in front of the law. In recent
years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to
complete fools whove thought its perfectly acceptable to
drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested
the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance
threshold is now decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those
who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaws premier
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Ballet
29.11 Friday
Nuevo Ballet Espaol
B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makrocon-
cert.com/pl. This tal ented company of Spanish danc-
ers, known as bailaores and bailaoras, are stomping
their way to Polish audi ences this November. These are
the true masters of the fl amenco dance, a styl e not
that easy to tame, and their precision is sure to l eave
a mass of envious daydreaming amateurs. Their latest
show Fi l i grana wi l l be per formed by the group that
has won the ti tl e of Best Spanish and Flamenco Dance
Company. Over a period of 15 years, without losing touch
wi th the tradi tional flamenco, they have per fected the
choreography of a more modern version of the dance
which has distinguished them from other choreographers.
Q Event starts at 19:00. Ti ckets 90-250z. Availabl e
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
Concerts
11.10 Friday
Serj Tankian
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Armenian-American musician Serj Tankian is best
known for his role as SOAD lead vocalist, but he also has a
solo career going on - prior to this year he released three solo
albums entitled Elect the Dead, Imperfect Harmonies,
and Harakiri. This year hes got two more projects: Orca
and Jazz-Iz-Christ. During this concert hell be performing
symphonic orchestra versions of his songs. Q Concert
starts at 19:00. Tickets 135-205z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
12.10 Saturday
Dem with Symphonic Orchestra
B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Jam might not sound
like much of a national treasure, but this is Dem (Polish for
Jam ) - - one of the most recognised bands on the Polish
rock and blues scene - - and they are definitely beloved
by Poland. Over the years their music has become legend-
ary, and they have built an impressive rapport with their
fans. Dem will be treating their audience by playing their
greatest hits with the Symphonic Orchestra. The band
is currentl y composed of Adam Otrba (gui tar), Beno
Otrba (bass guitar), Jurek Styczyski (guitar), Zbyszek
Szczerbiski (percussion), Janusz Borzucki (piano) and
Maciej Balcar (vocal and harmonica). Q Concert starts
at 19:00. Tickets 65-155z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
15.10 Tuesday
Pepsi Rocks - Rust
A- 4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Rust, a hard-rock band
from Poznan that won first prize in the competition for
young bands at the festival in Jarocin, will be playing at
the Hard Rock Cafe in Warsaw. Their first EP in 2011 was
received with great enthusiasm by fans and critics alike.
In 2012 their second EP saw them reach the stages of
dstock Festival, Open Air Rock Festival, Fama Rock
Festival. They have also worked in support of bands like
Luxtorpeda, Jarosaw mietana, Lao Che, Acid Drinkers,
Turbo and Dog eat Dog among others. Q Concert starts
at 21:00. Admission free.
Art Galleries
Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 15/17,
tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy wiat
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.
QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Zachta National Gallery of Art (Zachta Nar-
odowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3,
tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, Thu free.
Cinemas
IMAX ul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550
33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the
last showtime. Tickets 21-30z.
Multikino Zote Tarasy A-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22
462 81 10, www.multikino.pl. Also at Al. Ken 60 (Ursynw),
Wola Park, ul. Grczewska 124 (Wola); Centrum Targwek, ul.
Gbocka 15 (Targwek). Q Box office open from 09:00 to 15
minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35z.
Cultural Centres
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts
(Mazowieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul.
Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 22 586 42 59, www.mckis.
waw.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on rep-
ertoire. Price depending on event.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64
08, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 -
21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Opera Stages
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki -
Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 09:00
- 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 28-160z.
Philharmonic Stages
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www.
filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -
19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 25-250z.
Theatre Stages
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teat-
ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending
on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tickets 40-90z.
Stage On Wola (Scena na Woli im. Tadeusza
omnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22
656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl.QBox office open
12:00 - 19:00, or until showtime. Tickets 20-70z.
The Music Theatre ROMA (Teatr Muzyczny
ROMA) A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. (+48) 22 628 89
98, www.teatrroma.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 13:00 - 18:00, or until showtime. Tickets 30-150z.
TR Warszawa G-4, ul. Marszakowska 8, tel. (+48) 22
480 80 08, www.trwarszawa.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 14:30,
15:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00 and
before the spectacle. (40-120z).
25.10 Friday - 27.10 Sunday
Varsovia Cantat
Event takes place in various locations, www.varso-
viacantat.pl. A truly international Festival, which will be
attended by 29 choirs from Poland, Hungary, Bulgaria,
Czech Republic, Lithuania, Latvia, Belarus, Ukraine,
Estonia, Croatia and Slovenia. There will be concerts for
the general public filling the church halls of Warsaw with
the voices of choirs (St. Cross church, St. Anna church,
Capuchins church, Barnabits church ) singing a range
from a capella and medieval music to contemporary
music. A panel of judges ( Romuald Twardowski, Agnes
Gerenday, prof. Bernhard Gfrerer, Chiak Yin, and Marcin
Cmiel) will present the best choirs with statuettes of the
Golden Lyre at the festivals Gala, which will be held at
the University of Music, Fryderyk Chopin in Warsaw.Q
Admission free.
Varsovia Cantat
W W W . F A B R Y K A Z E S P O L O W . P L
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
graph, Burn It To The Ground and Rockstar. See them
perform in Warsaw along with Skillet as the special guest.
Q Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 161-193z. Available at
www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
06.11 Wednesday
Billy Talent
F-5, Stodoa Club, ul. Batorego 10, www.go-ahead.
pl. The band Pezz, which changed to Billy Talent due to a
dispute over the already existing name, began in 1993 and
was already performing for a decade before breaking into the
mainstream music scene. Since then the band has recorded
two multi-platinum albums and received 21 awards from 56
nominations in Canada as their fame and success abroad
steadily grows. The band consists of members: Benjamin
Kowalewicz ( lead vocals), Ian DSa (guitar, vocals), Jonathan
Gallant (bass guitar), backing vocals, Aaron Solowoniuk
(drums, percussion). Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
99z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59,
B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
09.11 Saturday
Nouvelle Vague
B-3/4, Palladium Club, ul. Zota 9, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Marc Collin and Olivier Libaux are the Parisian co-
producers leading Nouvelle Vague (New Wave). The name
points at their French creativeness by referring to the New
Wave film movement in the 1960s. The band covers punk rock
and post-punk anthems in a 60s Bossa Nova style, layering
it with softer feminine voices and sex appeal. Songs such
as Guns of Brixton, Dance With Me and (Love) Will Tear
Us Apart have brought them worldwide appeal. Their dbut
Nouvelle Vague (2004) included interpretations of songs
from bands like The Clash, Depeche Mode, Joy Division, and
Dead Kennedys. In their 2nd album Bande Part (2006),
they did covers including Ever Fallen in Love? (Buzzcocks),
Blue Monday (New Order), and The Killing Moon (Echo
and the Bunnymen), and in November, theyll be supported
by Melanie Pain and Liset Alea. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 125-165z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
12.11 Tuesday
Placebo
H-4, Torwar, ul. azienkowska 6A, www.placeboworld.
co.uk/landing. The Britsih alternative-rock band Placebo has
been active since 1994 and released six studio albums in that
time (all of which reached top 20 in the UK). Their seventh, Loud
Like Love, is scheduled to come out in September of this year.
Even though it has now been nearly twenty years since the bands
formation, and its members are beginning to age, the songs
remain as angsty and emotional as ever. Q Concert starts
at 18:00. Tickets 154-275z. Available at www.eventim.pl and
Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
18.11 Monday
Electric Light Orchestra
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Electric Light Orchestra, aka ELO, hail from Bir-
mingham, play rock, and these days operate during short
periods of activity (they did the bulk of their work between
1970 and 1983). The band released 13 studio albums and
no less than 37 compilation albums, selling over 50 million
records worldwide. Why Electric Light? Its an intended pun,
and stems from the mash of electric instruments and light
orchestra. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 80-300z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3,
open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
08.11 Friday - 10.11 Sunday
Warsaw Salsa Festival
Event takes place in various locations, www.
salsafestival.pl. The festival will be flinging its doors
open to Warsaw and the rest of Europe for the 9th time,
and the party wont stop until the sun bumps the early
birds of their perches. You can loosen your hips at four
parties spread out over a few dancefloors, each one
with a theme of its own. There will be loads of scheduled
workshops including Salsa, Cha Cha Cha and Zumba
classes with an impressive list of instructors. Among
the long list of international celebrities present will be
Eddie Torres, who brings almost 50 years of passion for
dancing with him, and Osmar Perrones with the Yamulee
Dance Company - - the masters of the classical Mambo.
Q Tickets 20-70z, festival pass 130-540z. Available at
www.salsafestival.pl.
Warsaw Salsa Festival
16.10 Wednesday
Tanita Tikaram
A-4, Palladium Club, ul. Zota 9, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Tanita might have been born in West Germany,
but her roots are Malaysian, Indian, and Fijian. She makes
pop and folk music, and her best known hits include Good
Tradition and Twist in My Sobriety (both from her debut
album Ancient Heart). Her most recent album, Cant Go
Back, was released in 2012. Q Concert starts at 19:00.
Tickets 125-185z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
22.10 Tuesday
Pepsi Rocks - Power of Trinity
A-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 07
00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Power of Trinity mixes powerful rock
with traces of reggae and dub, making them somewhat reminis-
cent of the mixing qualities of The Police and The Clash. Their
second album Loccomotiv became one of the most popular
rock records of 2011 and the single Come With Me reached
over two million views on Youtube. In 2012 they performed at
the Grand Prix Orange Warsaw Festival and played alongside
stars like Prodigy and Red Hot Chili Peppers. They also won the
Cult Award at the Jarocin Festival and are currently working on
their third album to be released in 2014. Q Concert starts at
21:00. Tickets 15-28z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik
(ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
26.10 Saturday
Pasion De Buena Vista
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Cuban artists Pasion De Buena Vista are returning
with their signature brand of peppy Caribbean music that
brings a blast of island warmth to Poz. The atmosphere is
like a breezy Havana club complete with saucy dancers and
Latin rhythms - - its almost more like a vacation to Cuba than
just a concert.QConcert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-250z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3,
open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
29.10 Tuesday
Pepsi Rocks - Reggaenerator
A-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Vavamuffin is combination
of two words: Jamaican ragamuffin, which is a style of
singing, and Vava, meaning Warsaw. They were formed in
2003 and have released five albums under the label Karrot
Kommando, setting the bar for the Polish reggae scene after
their 2005 album completely changing Polish reggae. They
performed hundreds of gigs ranging from small clubs to
massive audiences at Woodstock in both Poland and abroad.
You might be surprised to find out, however, that one of the
most recent side projects of the vocalist is the very rocky
SharkATaak. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 20-32z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3,
open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
02.11 Saturday
Nickelback
H-4, Torwar, ul. azienkowska 6A, www.nickelback.
com/events. Nickelback returns to Poland by huge demand,
with their sold-out European tour in 2012 still ringing in the
ears of those who were lucky enough to get tickets. The
band has received five Grammy nominations, three American
Music Awards, and 12 Juno Awards and were also named
Group of the Decade by Billboard magazine in 2009. Their
multi-platinum albums and singles sold over 50 million copies
worldwide, with hits such as How You Remind Me, Photo-
Warsaw Chamber Opera (Warszawska Opera
Kameralna) A-1, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel. (+48)
22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna.pl. The
Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by Stefan
Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and Artistic
Director ever since. The companys inaugural production,
performed on the 4th September 1961, was Pergolesis
La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986 the Opera has
performed at its own theatre, a listed building dating
from 1775 whose audience contributes to the acoustic
sound created.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans
a wi de vari ety of musi cal styl es and genres: from
medieval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque
and Classical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the
operas by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by
contemporary composers.QBox office open 11:00 -
19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours before the spectacle. Closed
Mon. Tickets 30-110z.
11.10 Friday
The Young Wife
A dramati c opera based on Gabri el a Zapol ska s
Pamitniki modej matki (Memoirs of a young mar-
ried woman). Allow yoursel f to be absorbed into the
passive pages of a diary in which the main character
is confessing her every thought. The accounts of her
emotional rollercoaster as a newly married woman in an
unhappy marriage, her struggles with her dour husband,
his giggly friend and her shameful own desires pour
onto the pages. The audience becomes witness, follow-
ing her thoughts as they float above the drama and the
characters that, forced by their mistakes, have to learn
to live with their reality. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets
25z. Available at Warsaw Chamber Opera box office.
18.10 Friday
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
Cosi fan tutte
The title Cosi fan tutte means Women are like that
and plays out in two acts courtesy of Wolfgang Amadeus
Mozart. The unbelievable plot is about a wager over
whether the fiancees of two officers will remain faithful.
To test this, the two officers pretend they are called off
to war, whereafter they dress up as exotic admirers and
try to seduce each others fiancees. In the beginning the
women refuse to be seduced, but as time goes by they
start to give in to the flirtation, leading to the title Cosi
fan tutte, sung out toward the end of the performance.
Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 40-110z. Available at
Warsaw Chamber Opera box office.
Warsaw Chamber Opera
photo: Jarosaw Budzyski
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
25.11 Monday
Candy Dulfer
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.makroconcert.
com/pl. Candy Dulfer is a Dutch smooth jazz and funk alto
saxophonist, and she really likes sax puns - or at least did
back in the nineties, if her album titles are any indication. She
was born in 1969 and started her music career reeeal early,
recording for her fathers band De Perikels at age eleven.
Her most recent album, Crazy, was released in 2011. Q
Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-220z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
27.11 Wednesday
Matt Dusk
B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.goodmusic.
pl. The stubbly-chinned Canadian jazz musician Matt Dusk
has two certified gold albums to brag about: they are Two
Shots and Good News, and the man also has had three
number one radio hits. So far its been a busy year: he recently
released his 5th full-length studio album called My Funny
Valentine: The Chet Baker Songbook and dueted with Edyta
Grniak; hell be touring Poland in November, with shows in
Pozna, Wrocaw, Warsaw, and Gdask. Q Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 100-220z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00).
Exhibitions
02.04 Tuesday - 10.12 Tuesday
Our Planet - See What We May Lose
B-4, Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1 (view-
ing level on 30th floor, www.estrada.com.pl. Sounds
tree-huggy, and it is - if you want to get depressed about the
state of the world and the degradation humans are inflicting
on the natural environment, then you should definitely go.
Exhibition is in Polish and English, and features all sorts of
multimedia wonders that actually just waste more electricity
and further pollution. Drop by the Brain Exhibit while youre
at the Palace. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 18/12z.
20.09 Friday - 02.02 Sunday
The Guercino Exhibition - Triumph of Baroque.
Masterpieces from Cento, Rome and the Pol-
ish collection
C-4, National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48)
22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Among the paintings of
Guercino, considered one of the greatest Italian Baroque
painters, will be exhibits of his most famous compositions
from Italian collections - pinacotecas, churches and palaces
of Cento, the painters city of birth, as well as from the collec-
tions of the famous Roman Gallery Nazionale dArte Antica
di Palazzo Barberini (Barberini Gallery). Visitors will have
the unique opportunity to see one of the most intriguing
and enigmatic works in the history of modern painting (rarely
presented outside of Rome) known as Arcadian Shepherds
or et in Arcadia egofrom the Barberini collection. This is
considered one of the richest exhibitions of Guercinos work
in Europe. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Admission
20/15z, family ticket 50z.
02.10 Wednesday
Our Class
Stage On Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel.
(+48) 22 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl.
Highly thought of all over Europe, Our Class by Tadeusz
Sobodzianek is the first Polish drama to win the Nike
literary award. Dealing with the growing pains of a group
of classmates who dream of becoming a pilot, a doctor
or a film star. Come and see how their lives are affected
by the events of the 20th century. This performance is
in Polish with English supertitles. Q Spectacle starts
at 19:00. Tickets 50/70z. Available at Stage On Wolas
box office (open 12:00 - 19:00).
17.10 Thursday
The Graduate
Stage On Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48)
22 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl. A Polish
adaptation of The Graduate, the 1963 book by Ameri-
can novelist Charles Webb that in 1967 was made into a
well-known film with Dustin Hoffmann in the leading role.
Main character Benjamin Braddock graduates from a
prestigious college but has no idea what he wants in life.
Rebelling against his parents, he falls in love with an older
woman and then with her daughter. The Graduate is set
in the roaring 1960s in the midst of a sexual revolution, the
Beatles and the smell of marijuana, all while painting the
middle-class scenes in all their colourful transformations.
Q Spectacle starts at 19:00. Tickets 30-80z. Available at
Stage On Wolas box office (open 12:00 - 19:00).
Stage on Wola
The latest events online:
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
27
HOTELS
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
26
CULTURE & EVENTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Festivals
11.10 Friday - 20.10 Sunday
Warsaw Film Festival
Event takes place in various locations, www.wff.pl.
Become familiar with independent films from the U.S., Asian,
Latin America, Russia, Romania and of course Poland at
the WFF, one of the true highlights of fall in Warsaw. Ticket
holders have the chance to see obscure and award-winning
features, often before they nab Oscars. Directors like Michael
Haneke, Cristian Mungiu, Ari Folman, and hundreds of others
were guests before reaching the height of their success.
Films will be shown in Multikino in the Golden Terraces and
in Cinematheque in the Palace of Culture. Q Tickets 12-
18z. Available at Multikino Zote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Zota 59;
open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime)
and Kinoteka (B-4, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1; openig hours were
undecided at the moment).
07.11 Thursday - 10.11 Sunday
Warsaw Dance Days
A-3, Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts, ul.
Elektoralna 12, www.wtt.waw.pl. Dance Days pro-
motes Polish artists performing within the country and
beyond i ts borders. This proj ect was ini tiated in 2012
by Alexandra Dziurosz, director of the Dance Theatre of
Warsaw. Polish Dance Theatre, Dance Theatre of Krakow,
Warsaw Dance Theatre and foreign artists will perform
on stage at this massive dance event. The festival will
dedicate one whole day to Warsaw Dance Theatre, cel-
ebrating its five years in operation, and will be presenting
the premire performance led by the choreographer Ulrike
Hager (Austria). During the Warsaw Dance Days there will
also be a conference and an exhibition of photographs
about the world of dance.
08.11 Friday - 10.11 Sunday
Kwartesencja Festival
F-7, ul. Modzelewskiego 59, www.kwartesencja.com.
This festival was founded in 2004 by the musicians of The
Royal String Quartet (winners of international competitions
and awards including Fryderyk 2003 in the chamber music
category) and presents a mixture of styles and genres of
music, bravely combining classical music with contemporary
music. The festival also brings the crowd closer to chamber
music, and the best philharmonic artists meet alternative
musicians on stage. Born out of the desire to create a unique,
unprecedented artistic event in Warsaw, Kwartesencja
Festival manages to bring musical diversity together into one
event. Q Concerts start at 20:00. Admission free.
Theatre
15.10 Tuesday, 16.10 Wednesday
Red Bull Flying Bach
B-2, Great Theatre - National Opera, Pl. Teatralny 1,
www.redbullflyingbach.pl. Four-time world champion
breakdance group Flying Steps brings Bach into the 21st
century with an interpretation of dance based on his compo-
sitions. Red Bull Flying Bachs art director Christoph Hagel is
a recognized pianist, conductor and opera director who has
analysed and translated the music so that its understand-
able for the dancers. All the music and moves are strung
together by a love story in the background, a ballerina that
joins the group after one of the dancers fell in love with her, in
a tale where Bach meets Hip-Hop. Q Event starts at 21:00.
Tickets 45-120z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(ul. Zota 59, B-3, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).
07.10 Monday - Loud Jazz Band
G-4, TR Warszawa, ul. Marszakowska 8. Mirosaw
Carlos Kaczmarczyk set up the Loud Jazz Band in
Poland in 1989. Reinvented in Norway in 1994, the
band of five Poles, three Norwegians and a Bulgarian
were ready to make headlines. The album 4 Ever 2 U
made Loud Jazz Band the first Polish band to release an
album with the prestigious Mercury Records, and was
subsequently nominated for the Fryderyk awards in the
jazz category. Their latest release From the Distance
comes out in October, making the Warsaw crowd the first
to see a live concert featuring their new tracks. There
will also be a guest appearance by Pawe Kaczmarczyk
from Audiofeels. Q Concert starts at 20:30. Tickets
50z. Available at TR Warszawa box office.
25.10 Friday - Angels in America
ATM Studio, ul. Wa Miedzeszyski 384 (Wawer).
Thought provoking questions and analogies are made
concerning the modern youth of Warsaw in a compari-
son with America. The lonely, business-minded youth of
Warsaw that seem to only buy new cars and expensive
houses, adding more and more reasons to do nothing
but work. Questions are raised about what will happen to
them when they end up without any community or fam-
ily, about the solitude they live in, and the thoughts and
beliefs that they were raised with. The first part of Angels
in America looks at the state Polish society is reaching (or
has already reached), politics and fundamentalism. Q
Spectacle starts at 18:00. Tickets 120/90z. Available
at TR Warszawa box office.
TR Warszawa
www.trwarszawa.pl
facebook.com/trwarszawa
4.48
Psychosis
(dir. Grzegorz Jarzyna)
12.10, SAT., 7.00 PM
Angels in
America
(dir. Krzysztof Warlikowski)
25.10, FRI. 6.00 PM,
at ATM Studio
Cream of the Crop
Hotel Bristol Warsaw C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.
pl. Dating back to 1900 and designed in the Art Nouveau
style, the Bristol was totally restored to its pre-communist
era glory way back in 1993. The grand re-opening ceremony
was attended by none other than Mrs. Thatcher and it was
considered the classiest hotel in town. Over the last few years
many felt it had lost its elegance and got a bit tatty around the
edges - a bit like Maggie herself prior to her demise. Thankfully,
2013s massive renovation job has put the Bristol back in poll
position as the classiest classic hotel in town. Secessionist and
Art Deco glamour blends with modern luxury in the refreshed
interior by world renowned designer Anita Rosato. Situated on
Krakowskie Przedmiecie, just minutes from the Old Town, its
an unbeatable location for any visitor to the city. Q206 rooms
(168 singles, 168 doubles, 37 apartments, 1 Paderewski Suite).
PTJHAR6UFGKDCW hhhhh
Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska 23,
tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.
com. Situated right on the doorstep of azienki Park, the
Hyatt not only has all the five star trimmings, but the big-
gest hotel swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards
the rooms are enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye
cream colours and huge showerheads designed for that
mock rain experi ence. Q246 rooms (88 si ngl es, 129
doubles, 27 suites, 1 Diplomatic Suite , 1 Presidential Suite
). PTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhh
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48)
22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A
beautiful three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinen-
tal is nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommoda-
tion fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant
colour combinations and including every facility one would
expect. Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness
centre and swimming pool on the 43rd floor, and huge
residential suites for long-term guests. Q414 rooms (336
singles, 336 doubles, 78 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite
). PTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul.
Kocielna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.
com/leregina. Rated by many as the most stylish hotel in
Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance and comes
set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades in Warsaws
New Town area. No expense has been spared in creating this
luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble mocha used for
flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in many of the rooms.
A monastic quiet prevails throughout this courtyard centred
hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing combo of whites,
creams and caramel colours. Q61 rooms (58 singles, 58
doubles, 1 Penthouse , 1 Le Regina Suite , 1 Presidential
Suite ). PTJHARUFGKDCW hhhhh
Marriott B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630
63 06, www.warsawmarriott.pl. A hotel with real pedigree,
the Warsaw Marriott has everything from Warsaws classiest
doorman outside to award winning restaurants inside. The ac-
commodation has been home to a long line of visiting nabobs,
including President Obama. An extensive program of renova-
tion has recently seen all the rooms upgraded and the beds are
so comfortable you may not wish to leave them. Little details
include lemon shampoo in the bathrooms, mini-bars complete
with pipes of Pringles and views that stretch right across the
city. Q523 rooms (428 singles, 427 doubles, 31 suites, 60
apartments, 2 Vice Presidential Suite, 1 Presidential Suite).
POTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Warsaw i s a busi -
ness ci ty fi rst and
foremost, and oc-
cupancy rates reflect
that. Prices dip the
moment the cl ock
hits Friday, 5pm, and
youll find some great
discounts available
i f you hunt around
online. A good place
to start is at poland.
i nyourpocket. com
where our Hotel Calculator scours booking engines for
the best rates based on your criteria (you can thank us
later). The Warsaw hotel market reflects the citys im-
age as the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and
comes well equipped with five star offerings as well as
a new breed of options for thri fty travellers. Warsaw
now has a group of Golden Keys concierges and their
tips for the coming months can be found in our Ask the
Concierge box.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local:
Be King of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where
rooms custom designed by local artists offer a uniquely
modern angle to the Old Town setting. For something
more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a re-
stored art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why
not see what its like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out
an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews,
class apartments in an A1 location.
Cheap:
Oki Doki i s i deal i f youre l ooki ng to meet up wi th
random travel ers from around the gl obe, especi al l y
si nce the hostel promi ses the cheapest beer i n
Warsaw, whi l e newcomer Moon Hostel i s a l i ttl e
more upscal e ( fl atscreens i n the rooms) and a
l i ttl e l ess backpackeresque i f youve aged out of
beer deal s.
Lads:
I f youre touring in numbers then go for a name brand,
all of which tend to drop their rates at weekends. I f
you want to be central and close to the action then try
The Golden Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile. I f
quick access to the airport is an essential requirement
then the new Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport
has you covered.
Couples:
MaMaison Le Regina is the perfect honeymoon ex-
perience, and right in the middle of romantic new town.
Alternatively, you can splash out on the all Art Deco junior
suite at the Rialto to truly impress your significant other.
Splurge:
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent
years and while we can vouch for all the major hotels,
i t mi ght be worth taki ng a l ook at the pri ce com-
parison service hotelcalculator on the hotel pages of
poland.inyourpocket.com.
Lodgings at a Glance
28
HOTELS
29
HOTELS
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Mercure Warszawa Grand C-4, ul. Krucza 28, tel.
(+48) 22 583 21 00, www.mercure.com. A landmark of
a hotel, housed in one of those 1950s buildings that simply
oozes class and makes you wonder why the rest of the city
couldnt look the same. High quality rooms come with fan-
tastic showers that make brilliant use of the available space.
Add in comfy beds, a top central location, a fitness centre with
steam room, good staff and a brilliant buffet breakfast, and
you have a winner. Q299 rooms (86 singles, 207 doubles,
6 apartments). PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszakowska
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the
Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject of a thorough
overhaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location
and size, meaning its not rare to find it overrun with tour
groups and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms
offering all the four star extras, including Executive rooms
(with iPod docking stations) and even studio and apartment
options. Q733 rooms (50 singles, 661 doubles, 12 suites,
10 apartments). PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel.
(+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally
built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all, from a victory
banquet hosted by Eisenhower to the Miss World girls back in
2006. The exterior has benefited from a full facelift, and now
dazzles amid its soot-clad neighbours. Slidey doors open onto
a grand marble lobby, while upstairs amply portioned rooms
reveal modern fittings among made-to-look-old furniture. New
32 and 40 LED TVs and hotel-wide Wi-Fi extend the mod-
ern upgrades. Pride of place goes to the apartment, whose
defining feature is a raised lounge area with an oval-shaped
window. Q206 rooms (198 singles, 198 doubles, 7 suites, 1
apartment). PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhh
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/
hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities
and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime
styles. All come with dataports, free wi-fi, three telephone
lines, safes and pay-TV, and theres also state-of-the-art
conference, dining and fitness facilities. Q311 rooms (284
singles, 284 doubles, 26 apartments, 1 Presidential Apart-
ment). PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
Mid-range
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72
00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered
patterns and green and white colour schemes the Campanile
accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine bath-
rooms. High standards and a central location. Q194 rooms
(194 singles, 194 doubles). PTA6UGKW hh
Castle Inn B-2, ul. witojaska 2 (entrance from Pl.
Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.pl.
When students grow up, grow rich and can no longer stand
hostels, they stay in places like this. A dream of a hotel at
the centre of Old Town you can expect big rooms, all with
individual decor - some classy, some kitsch, all good fun - and
- wait for it - velvet doors. Best of all though are the rooms
which have the massive (and we mean massive) bathrooms.
We dare you to find bigger bathrooms than those on offer
here in any other hotel in Warsaw. Much like their clientele
the owners of this place have also graduated up from hostels
(they run the Oki-Doki). If this is what becomes of hostels
when they grow up, bring it on. Q22 rooms (3 singles, 18
doubles, 1 triple). THA6GW
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.
rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh inside
Polands original boutique hotel, a stunning venue decorated
exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings have been
plucked from the auction houses and antique stores of Eu-
rope, and all the individually designed rooms come with Italian
linen, DVD players and a host of luxurious extras. If its avail-
able then book into lucky number 13, a colonial pearl which
Hercule Poirot would have loved. He would have thought highly
of the excellent in-house restaurant, too, which has a special
menu that offers the cuisine of pre-war Warsaw for added
authenticity. Q44 rooms (6 singles, 27 doubles, 11 apart-
ments). PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48)
22 450 61 00, www.sheraton.pl/en. Its all a bit Dynasty
in the Warsaw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate
extras, as well as a selection of some of Warsaws best
eateries on the ground floor. Rooms are of generous size,
though to really feel like king consider upgrading to the
Sheraton Club floor, where perks include access to a great
lounge featuring complimentary snacks and beverages from
18:00-20:00. Q350 rooms (326 singles, 326 doubles, 18
suites, 5 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). PTHA
R6UFLGKDW hhhhh
The Westin Warsaw Hotel A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II
21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80 00, www.westin.pl/en. A
top bracket sanctuary situated amid the skyscrapers of
Warsaws business district. The lobby buzzes at all hours
and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in warms
tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with
dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars
that will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the
executive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features
gourmet finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms
(345 singles, 345 doubles, 15 suites, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhhh
Upmarket
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
warsaw.hilton.com. Although only open since 2007 the
Hilton already feels like an established big shot on Warsaws
four star circuit. And it cant be denied, theres a hefty dose
of wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to
the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But its
not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous 25 metre
pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides diversions
by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and private check
in. As for the rooms, theyre just what youd expect from
a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes with a stylish
modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen televisions.
Particularly impressive are the corner suites, complete with
floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw. Q314 rooms (303
singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
POTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhh
Mercure Warszawa Centrum A-4, ul. Zota 48/54,
tel. (+48) 22 697 39 99, www.mercure.com. This
newly-christened Mercure Warszawa Centrum is in a prime
location hemmed in by the Palace of Culture and Zote Tarasy
shopping centre. Find immaculate facilities throughout, and
renovations occurring a floor at a time. The place might
look small and squat compared to its neighbours but this
hotel is deceptively large, with a quick tour revealing fitness
facilities, restaurant Winestone and a Balinese massage
parlour. Q338 rooms (23 singles, 305 doubles, 10 suites).
PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Dear Readers of Warsaw In Your Pocket,
I am very pleased to
have the opportunity to recommend
to you some of the Warsaw happen-
ings coming up this autumn as well
as places that you just should try
not to miss during your visit to our
unique city.
Numerous world-class stars will be
touring in Warsaw this autumn and
what makes it even more interesting
is that you can enjoy their concerts
in the Congress Hall of the Palace of Culture & Science,
which once was the gathering place of the communist
party. We will have the Vaya Con Dios on October
8, Passion de Buena Vista on October 26, Sinead
OConnor on October 27, the famous Russian choir and
dance ensemble Alexandrovs Choir on November 4,
Randy Crawford on November 8, Electric Light Orches-
tra on November 18, Candy Dulfer on November 25 and
finally Matt Dusk on November 27. Your hotel concierge
will be delighted to arrange tickets for these and other
events, on request.
As usual, classical music lovers may choose from an
almost infinite number of concerts and shows during the
autumn season. The Warsaw Opera will stage the ballets
Hamlet, A Midsummer Nights Dream, Echoes of
Time and Bach Dances as well as performances by the
Lithuanian National Ballet and the Cullberg Ballet. Among
the famous operas listed in the October and November
repertoire are Don Carlo, Nabucco and The Devils
of Loudun by Krzysztof Penderecki.
Also the Warsaw Philharmonic Hall invites guests to its
performances which take place nearly every day in Octo-
ber and November and there is something for everyone
in its extensive repertoire: http://www.filharmonia.pl/
Based on my own experience and on the enthusiastic
comments of our dear guests I wish to recommend
several places of interest which should not be missed
during your visit to our beautiful city. Among Warsaws
museums Id definitely recommend the Museum of the
Warsaw Uprising, which presents the resistance and
struggle of our capitals population in 1944 in a uniquely
realistic way. Numerous masterpieces of world and Pol-
ish art may be seen in the National Museum as well as
in the Royal Castle, where you may also visit beautiful
the Royal Chambers and other selected exhibitions. For
contemporary art exhibitions please visit our Zachta,
Ujazdowski Castle and our new Contemporary Art Mu-
seum. Another absolute must and a guarantee of fun
and enjoyment is the Copernicus Center of Science, an
unique place which allows you to carry out experiments
demonstrating the functioning of the world.
Finally, I invite you to talk to your hotel concierge who is
your best advisor for sightseeing tours, shopping op-
portunities, culinary offerings as well as current events.
We know Warsaw and will have proposals tailored
specifically to your needs which will make your stay in
Warsaw a memorable one.
Piotr Prasua
President of Les Clefs dOr Poland
Chief Concierge
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Hotel
Ask your Concierge
LUXURY APARTMENTS
I N THE HEART OF WARSAW
UL. HOA 27A/9
TEL. +48 22 622 01 47, MOB. +48 608 388 671
BOOKI [email protected]
WWW.MYROOMMATE.PL
MENTION WARSAW IN YOUR POCKET
FOR A 10% DISCOUNT.
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul.
Poleczki 31 (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 373 37 00,
www.express-warsawairport.com. Those wanting
easy access to the airport just short of sleeping on
the runway will find the brand new Holiday Inn Express
to fit the bill perfectly. Just three minutes away and ac-
cessible via a convenient hotel shuttle, the Holiday Inn
promises amenities that are miss-your-flight worthy:
wi fi and flatscreens in every room, a complimentary
breakfast buffet and a business corner for last-minute
work needs. Q124 rooms (124 singles, 124 doubles).
PTHAUGW hhh
NEW
Sound Garden Hotel D-7, ul. wirki i Wigury 18,
tel. (+48) 22 279 14 00, www.soundgardenhotel.pl.
Warsaws first SMART hotel: Saving time, Music orientated,
Affordable, Responsible for the environment, Trend setting.
Sound Garden is the perfect place for the modern, hip busi-
ness man/woman with a conscience. Emphasis is placed
on natural materials within the design, toiletries are ethically
sourced and even rain water is recycled for use in the build-
ing. Check in and out on your own, choose your preference
of musically themed floor (jazz, pop, rock, nature or silence)
and stay connected via interactive TV and the fastest
internet in town. The conference facilities are top notch, and
dont fail to take advantage of the fresh and healthy Grab
& Go breakfasts - just tell the staff what you want and it
will be wrapped up and ready for you to take away with you.
Note that payment is by bank card only. Q206 rooms (201
singles, 161 doubles, 5 apartments). PHA6UGW
Airport Hotels
30
HOTELS
31
HOTELS
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa 2,
tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcen-
tre.com. A very favourable price to quality trade-off here,
with plenty of room, heavenly beds and a warm welcome all
part of the deal. However, our favourite detail is the breakfast,
clearly one of the best in the city. What a spread! A hotel
with big ideas that is rightfully putting its sights on getting
a fourth star. Q144 rooms (144 singles, 144 doubles).
PTHA6UFGKDW hhh
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel.
(+48) 22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More of
the same from Ibis: international standards at competi-
tive prices, with refreshed rooms that have flat screen
televisions across the board. Best of all, its location ten
minutes from the Old Town means that your immediate
choice is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash
in the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles, 333 doubles).
PTHA6UGKW hh
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarnoci 165,
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable
international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed
with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles, 189
doubles). PTHA6UGKW hh
Metropol F-3, ul. Marszakowska 99a, tel. (+48)
22 325 31 00, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. For many
years this hotel acted as a reminder of what Warsaw Cold
War hotels used to look like, the di fference to modern day
standards made all the starker by the re-construction and
re-modelling of neighbouring hotels including the Metropols
sister hotel Polonia Palace. Those days are now past and
the hotel has been scrubbed and rooms bought up to a
decent standard. For price/location this is now one of the
citys better options for those on a budget. Q192 rooms
(176 singles, 176 doubles, 16 suites). TA6UGKW
hhh
Budget
Ibis Budget Warszawa Centrum H-3, ul. Zagrna 1,
tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com. A super
addition to Warsaws budget bracket, this hotel is in the midst
of a brand shift so you may find yourself checking into an Ibis
or, if the transition is complete, an Ibis hotel. Either way its a
winning formula here: bright, modern rooms inside a sparkling
white building in the quiet Powile district. The rooms come
with a simple design but your cash gets you all the facilities
the modern traveller requires: wireless net access, en-suite
bathrooms and cable television. Q176 rooms (176 singles,
176 doubles, 14 triples). PA6UGW h
Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22
207 70 00, www.hotelatos.pl. Another hotel where
spending the extra on a premium komfort room is wholly
encouraged. Doing so gains you digs in clean, renovated
rooms with functional furniture and wi fi and tv. Cutting
costs gets you something altogether more basic. Q231
rooms (231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 triples). THA
R6ULGKW hh
Apartments
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations
across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all
budgets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end
of the market. Q50 rooms (50 apartments). A6GW
Residence St. Andrews Palace B- 4, ul. Chmielna
30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestan-
drews.pl. Fantasti c apartments i n a wonder ful, ful l y
renovated building in the most central location possible: ul.
Chmielna. Not a penny was spared in the decoration and
kitting out of these places, and the nice little touches that
are found all over - from the marble in the bathrooms to the
fully fitted kitchens with washing machines and dishwashers
- will convince you that this was money well spent. Free wi fi
included, and daily cleaning during the week. I f this were a
hotel, it would be in the Cream of the Crop section, these
apartments are that nice. Q24 rooms (24 apartments).
PTARGW
Roommate Apartments B/C- 4, ul. Hoa 27A/9,
tel. (+48) 608 38 86 71, www.myroommate.pl. Dont
be misled by the name, you are not going to turn up to find
the roommate from hell sitting in front of the TV in his un-
derpants with a 6-pack and a hal f eaten pizza. Instead, you
will find a selection of centrally located, smartly designed
short term rental apartments. Each apartment is well kit-
ted out with all the mod cons to make your stay in Warsaw
as comfortable and relaxing as possible. The locations
are on some of the nicest streets in the centre and make
navigating the city a simple task. Staff are on hand to help
out with any requests you may have and they even offer
a shuttle service from the airport and the option of your
own personal guide to show you around town. Q5 rooms
(5 apartments). TAUGW
Hostels
Hostel 36 ul. Bokserska 36 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22
207 90 00, www.hostel36.pl. Formerly Hostel Suewiec,
this is a hostel in name alone as it is actually more of a budget
hotel than anything else. Rooms are clean, bare and tidy, and
while the prices are kind the chances of meeting any fellow
backpackers are virtually non-existent.Q144 rooms (83
singles, 58 doubles). TAR6GW
Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 505 505 590, www.
moonhostel.pl. If its all about location then Moon Hostels
new Warsaw location is one of the best, with a prime building
in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms range from one
to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms, and in-room
flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge area is naturally
sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a foosball table,
Playstation and computer ready for action. Ideal for visitors
who want their hostel to feel like a hotel. Throw in breakfast
for an additional 10zl and your stay is complete. Q26 rooms
(2 singles, 14 doubles, 5 triples, 3 quads, 1 Five-person room,
1 Six-person room, 1 Seven-person room, 1 Eight-person
room). TA6GW
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with
abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky
colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are cur-
rently getting a small refurb though they still dont have
numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team
of local artists. Take a look at The Realm of Narnia, like
something straight out of C.S. Lewis, or The Communist
Dorm, filled with commie iconography and scenes from So-
cialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also available for guests
(iffy in rooms, always in common spaces), as well as what
the owners promise is the cheapest beer in Warsaw. For
something more upmarket check into the decidely boutique
Castle Inn, a second pet venture from the same team behind
the Oki Doki. Q37 rooms (1 single, 14 doubles, 2 triples, 8
quads, 100 Dorm beds). TA6GW
Are you tired of staying in standard hotels?
Feel at home in P&O Apartments in Warsaw.
P&O Apartments offers you accommodation for rent
in the center of the City for overnight stays or for lon-
ger visits and helps you to feel at home in Warsaw.
We offer professional service, quality and excellent
locations as well as competitive pricing.
land line +48 22 636 86 99,
mobile +48 508 135 995
e-mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.pandoapartments.com.pl
For sun lovers we offer properties for
Sale & Rental on the Costa Del Sol in Spain.
Visit our new and modern office
in Marbella on Costa del Sol or call us
+34 663 652 145; +34951245424
Internet: www.pandoapartments.es
email: [email protected]
in Warsaw
Close to
the Galeria Mokotw and
Galeria Ursynw shopping
malls, Suewiec horse
racing track and Mokotw
Business Park
tel.: + 48 22 207 90 00
www.hostel36.pl
Hostel with

g
ood rates
33
RESTAURANTS
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
32
RESTAURANTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
African
Caf Baobab H-3, ul. Francuska 31, tel. (+48) 22
617 40 57, www.cafebaobab.pl. A million miles away
from its previous incarnation as Sax - the legendary down
at heel haunt of poet Agnieszka Osiecka, this venue is now
a Senegalese bar and restaurant. Run by former basket-
baller and champion cocktail mixer, Aziz, its a multi-cultural
wonderland where youre sure to find someone who speaks
your language. The bar is decorated in rich woody colours,
some nice large scale photos from Senegal and piles of
books about faraway places. On Thursdays a local French
chap hosts board game nights, and if youre really lucky youll
be here for one of their splendid and impromptu outdoor
African music concerts. The Senegalese menu isnt hal f
as scary as food cowards may think, with all the meat and
fish dishes well worth trying. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (28z).
TA6GBSW
American
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there
anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz
burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the
jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experi-
enced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the
concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia,
and Warsaws chapter is no different. The two-story venue
features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty
nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns
out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws.
Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled Guns for
him and Roses for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115z).
PTA6UGBSW
WITH ANY BREAKFAST
GET YOUR AMERICAN COFFEE
FOR FREE!
DRINK ALL YOU WANT!
START YOUR DAY WITH OUR
ROCKIN BREAKFASTS!*
Warsaws come a long
way and fast, and no-
where is the urban vi-
brancy more apparent
than i n the ci tys pro-
gressive culinary scene.
The i mmedi ate post-
communist obsession
wi th I tal i an has si nce
given way to fusion, sushi and - most recently - burgers,
and dining out is now a truly international experience.
Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy
or plainly incompetent service being a common lament.
Youd think the opening hours we list are self-explanatory.
Not so. Venues will more often than not close their doors
if business is slow. Other restobars often employ dif-
ferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we
list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we
list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and
most expensive main course on the menu. In regards to
tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only if
you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of
recommendations depending what you are looking for.
Business:
Restauracja Rana is an experienced local offering
that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop,
while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as
the citys top restaurant. For a more casual atmosphere
weve spotted many briefcases and ties at Socjals
communal table.
Cheap:
The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are a
legacy to the communist past, and while theyre cheap
you may wish to skip them unless you really are bone
broke and starving.
Couples:
Solec 44 has a solid menu and a massive array of
board games at which you can challenge (and beat) your
sweetheart while Halka has elegant date night interiors
and a menu to match.
Kids:
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and
they do know how to make your special ones feel special.
Chopskie Jado is a great family experience as well,
where kids eat off wooden slabs and you sit family-style
to dine on traditional Polish cuisine like lard spread and
chunks of meat.
Lads:
The Warsaw Tortilla Factory is the place to prove
your worth to the team by guzzling lager from private
taps while noshing on the citys best burritos. If you like
big helpings of pierogis consider Zapiecek, which can
be found on almost every street in Warsaw, while steak
lovers should head directly to 99 Restaurant and Bar.
Polski:
Eat Commie style in Obera Pod Czerwonym Wiepr-
zem, or for a more upscale take on Polish cuisine try
Dom Polski. Celebrity chef Magda Gessler makes Polish
goulash stylish at Masz Gulasz.
Eating at a Glance
Sioux B- 4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55,
www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild
West as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely.
Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed
photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to
recreate li fe around the campfire with unimpressive ribs,
cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like
fajitas and burritos. Youll find a Sioux serving up cheap,
completely average food in almost every city of size in Po-
land, and unless youre a diehard wagon wheel fanatic, trot
your spurs on to a more interesting (and flavourful) option.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (25-75z).
PTAUGSW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. SPE has been serving up some of the
best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remember, and
a recent visit shows little has changed: the Orient Express
burger is a marriage of lamb and roast beef doused in hal-
lumi cheese and Mediterranean veggies - epic and creative.
The large, open bar is capable of mixing up anything you
can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary to accompany
the Sheratons brunch, which is served here on Sunday.
Recommended particularly i f you are sleeping upstairs
so you wont have far to haul your happily fed self. QOpen
12:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
(38-110z). PTAUEGSW
Argentinean
NEW
Hoa by Mondovino C- 4, ul. Hoa 25A, tel. (+48)
515 03 70 01, www.hoza.warszawa.pl. An Argentinean
steakhouse and seafood restaurant with a classy and sen-
sual interior; bullfight reds, polished black fixtures, stripped
brickwork and bright blue paintwork blend together under the
low lighting to create a nice atmosphere of old world Buenos
Aires with a modern kick. Though the chef is a native Argen-
tine, Hoa only uses Polish beef, sourced from Limousin and
Angus stock, which is hung and cured in their own dry ageing
room for a minimum of 12 days. Although youll pay a hefty
84z for the premium sirloin steak it will certainly be one of
the finest, softest, melt in the mouth hunks of meat money
can buy in this part of the world. You wont fail to notice the
encyclopaedic wine list, but note that their stellar bar also
includes 50 kinds of whisky. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (20-200z). PTAXSW
Balkan
Banja Luka B-3, ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. (+48) 22 828 10
60, www.banjaluka.pl. Reliable Banja Luka has moved!
Youll now find them much closer to the city center, which
is where you should head for monstrous portions of the
best Balkan food in town. The more central spot means the
citys officebots have discovered a great new lunch special,
with 19.90z filling you with a new daily menu that sounds
like what a small wrestling team might take down: start with
fish soup, enjoy a meaty main and theres even baklava for
dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-50z).
PTAEGBSW
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
just too much on offer. If they stuck to what they knew best
it could easily become one of the better Asian eateries in
Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun
12:30 - 22:00. (29-136z). PTAUGSW
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22
241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served
in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed
Wilanw district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants
the decoration is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns
and lots of reds and blacks with an aquarium and fountain
centrepieces. The food is authentic with a particular focus
on the cuisine of the Jiangsu region and the menu offers a
comprehensive choice of dishes including a beautifully pre-
sented Nanjing duck. Of note if you are visiting the palace at
Wilanw, youll find it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka, the
start of which is the left of the two streets directly across
the road from the palace entrance. Its definitely worth the
walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre, with a
solid lunch special Mon-Fri from 12:00-16:30 for just 21z.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (27-130z). PTAUGSW
Czech
U Szwejka F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339
17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establishment,
equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton
Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash
and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The
steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards
like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a
terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic
to use with the staff, but theres certainly no criticism of the
Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by order-
ing in steins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
13:00 - 24:00. (18-45z). PTAEXSW
French
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino F- 4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18
(entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45
55, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into
Charlottes pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine
bubbling past, but instead its your waitress bringing giant jars
of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this doesnt
look like typical French portion control. This French bakery/
bistro is already a popular breakfast spot, and a communal
table in the center of the restaurant is a genius solution for
the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a latte. The
service at this start-up is still spotty, but considering the
crowds its also understandable. Charlotte is the ideal place
to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le snob.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18z). TA6GSW
Fusion
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl.
Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet,
interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a
tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you
pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular
seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep
happy local foodies coming back for more. Q Open 06:30 -
10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:30 - 22:30.
(45-150z). PTAUGSW
Galician
C.K. Obera B-4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22 828
45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners, pints of
lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented inside a
basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu is all pork
chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals, and happily
consumed by crowds who recognise a serious bargain. Also
at (B-2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. (27-62z). AXS
Indian
Buddha Indian Restaurant C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 23,
tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Buddha
really impressed when they opened up a couple of years
back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the
city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries fol-
low a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top
of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully
benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kid-
friendly dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
(30-130z). PTAUVGBSW
Namaste India C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48)
22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. What began as
a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into
a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a
second location was needed to meet the demand for deli-
cious Indian cuisine. For office workers around town, this
- the original Namaste - remains the best, and well agree
that it simply doesnt get much better for Indian food in the
capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you cant help
but ask whats the catch. There isnt one; weve tried pretty
much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak
link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting
times can be torture. Also at ul. Piwna 12/14 (B-2). QOpen
11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(30-40z). PTUGSW
Brazilian
Browar de Brasil B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 76/80,
tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The
large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story
churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality
beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off
for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux
football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy,
and carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat
that arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for 69z.
Sure to be as popular as the flagship d location. QOpen
09:30 - 24:00. (16-70z). PTAEGBSW
British
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-
cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak and
kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if the
waitress can work out which channel is showing what). What
it needs now are a few pints spilt on the floor and a few rowdy
evenings to knock off the new look. Find it a stones throw
south of the Marriott hotel. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (25-50z). PTABXSW
Chinese
Cesarski Paac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22
827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. The lunch deal
is one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit of a free-
for-all once the clock hits one. The food is a mix of Chinese
flavours, with more Szechuan than Beijing, though its this
lack of focus that eventually hamstrings this locale: theres
/ SHEESHALOUNGE
c|ak 8 restzarzat
8hLL8hk I8 hL 0LY 0L III
Al. 1erozolimskie 33
(22) 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl infosheesha.pl
, Warszawa (behind hotel Novotel)
88LkkIk8 L00h IML 10:00-12:00 12:00-16:00
0IL8 8L ML0 16:00-3:00
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
1970s magazine adverts - all it needs to complete the
picture is a man in a safari suit and Michael Caine glasses,
smoking a Rothmans and peering down at a lady with a
bouffant hairdo in a floral maxi dress. The menu is a short
hotchpotch of pizza, pasta, burgers and salads. Even
though it all seems to lack direction and a clear identity its
proving tremendously popular with elements of Warsaws
cool and trendy brigade. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (23-59z).
PTA6GW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhall e have 2 locations
in the city of which this is the more central. Located on
the equivalent of Warsaws main street, youll find bench
seating, generous portions of good food and a tasty range
of in-house brewed beers. Match a stein of fresh pils with
something from their picture menu which features local
favourites like pierogi, pork knuckle and kaszanka (a kind
of black pudding) as well as dishes more often associated
with Polands beer drinking neighbours; German Wurst,
Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian Goulash. Simple, ac-
cessible and with regular promotions make this a popular
spot. Also at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen
12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:45, Sun 12:00 - 21:45.
(18-50z). PTAGSW
Bordo C-3, ul. Gaczyskiego 9, tel. (+48) 22 622 00
68, www.bordo.com.pl. Neatly tucked off Nowy wiat,
this highly likeable, popular pre-party gem just wants to
make you happy, and satisfaction is assured by a vast
menu that covers all the food groups from soup, salad and
sandwiches to pasta, pizza and grilled meats, shakes,
cakes and ice cream. The drinks list is just as thorough,
the breakfasts are a standout and prices are delightfully
sub-Varsovian across the board. A modern interior full




Mon-Sat 11.00-22.00, Sun 12.00-22.00
[email protected] | www.namasteindia.pl
AUTHENTIC IN
DIAN CUISINE IN WARSAW
ul. Nowogrodzka 15
+48 22 357 09 39
ul. Piwna 12/14 (Old Town)
+48 22 635 77 66

Same owner, same cooks, same place,

but with a new menu and cocktail bar.
You all must come and try the fantastic food and cocktails,
all at the cheapest prices in town.
ul. urawia 22, 00-515 Warsaw
Tel. (+ 48) 22 438 93 50
Mob. (+ 48) 501 400 386
[email protected]
www.rain.pl
Namaste India Clay Oven B-2, ul. Piwna 12/14,
tel. (+48) 22 635 77 66, www.namasteindia.pl. When
Namaste first opened it proved such a success story a new
venue was needed to cope with the overflow custom. And if
you thought the previous effort was pretty good, then bow
down and worship at what is up there with the great Indian
restaurants of Central Eastern Europe. Theres no such thing
as a bad meal here, but to really hit the high notes order the
butter chicken - incomparable to any other curry in town.
Also at ul. Nowogrodzka 15 (C-4). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(22-40z). PTAGS
Rain by India Curry C-4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48)
22 438 93 50, www.rain.pl. Neatly tucked back from
the main drag on ul. urawia, Rain manages to combine a
comprehensive range of Indian dishes with a short fusion
and international based menu. This mixed menu makes
it the ideal place to dine for curry fiends who are happy to
have a few non-worshippers tagging along in the group. The
fusion suggestions include a few dishes with hints of Indian
flavours for those who simply cant make up their minds;
like the tandoori fish with ginger straws and vegetables. The
interior consists of two seating areas separated by a nice
bar space, which is designed so that you can also just drop
in for a wicked pick-me-up from the well above-average
cocktail list. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30.
(32-60z). PTAUVGBSW
NEW
Sheesha Lounge B-4, ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 33, tel.
(+48) 22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Its been a while
coming but the lads from Sheesha have finally made the
move from their much loved previous site on ul. Sienkiewicza
to this three level site directly behind the city centre Novotel.
The fit out is a jewel of Middle Eastern promises and the sec-
ond you enter you feel youve been transported into a sultry
world of wonder; Arabic fixtures and fittings, the sweet smell
of shisha, dim lighting, a laid back atmosphere and a majestic
menu of Middle Eastern, Indian and fusion cuisine make it a
tranquil daytime oasis in the heart of town. In order to find
out why we say tranquil daytime oasis, check out our clubs
section listing for Sheesha. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 03:00. (28-48z). PTAEXSW
International
12 Stolikw F-3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 795 37
38 15. If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds
pretentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the
concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolikw, a small
restaurant that writes the ever-changing offerings on a
chalkboard facing diners. Waitresses are happy to interpret,
and though the transient system means you might not get the
delicious tomato soup with pesto or handmade ravioli that we
did, their quality indicates you cant go wrong. The high ceil-
ings and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for dcor, but
we couldnt take our eyes off the chef tempering chocolate on
the centre island - call it dinner and show. And were not the
only ones who think so: 12 Stolikw was named one of the
top five restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta Wyborcza
newspaper. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (18-70z). PTA6UGSW
NEW
Bt ul . ur awi a 32/34 (entr ance f r om ul .
Parkingowa), tel. (+48) 22 521 06 37. Were not quite
sure what to make of this place. Sneak past the hideously
coloured logo into a rather raw and colourless caf bar/
restaurant with its pale brown angular tables and chairs
and copper sheeting wall dcor. It made us think of early
of comfortable, creme-coloured booths and a spacious
downstairs means theres plenty of room for every young
couple on a cheap date, and every gaggle of gals getting
ready to go out. I f you dont like Bordo, be advised: li fe is
harder when youre hard to please. Also at ul. Chmielna 34
(B-4). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (11-
39z). PTA6GBSW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826
54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other microbrewery
tends to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous
Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of
its rival, BrowArmia is by no means second best. The interior
has a dark beer hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials
and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces
the competition - the sticky wings pair perfectly with a Bro-
wArmia pils. More importantly the beer is top standard and
best imbibed on the seasonal terrace looking onto bustling
Krakowskie Przedmiecie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-66z).
PTAEGSW
Concept C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 16/18,
tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.likusrestauracje.pl/pl/
Restauracja_Concept. Its hard to do justice to Concept
restaurant, one of the most impressive dining experiences
to be found in Warsaw. Found inside a former pre-war bath-
house this place is accessed down a gloomy looking court-
yard, flanked on each side by kebab stands and student
dives. Dont turn back. Instead duck through the entrance to
find yourself in a whole different world. Decorated with glazed
floor tiles, shimmery fabrics and a skylight this place looks
every inch a masterpiece. Keeping up with the surrounds is
the food, with a newly launched menu that includes a near
perfect steak. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (35-99z).
PTAEXSW
38
RESTAURANTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 lok.7
(Praga Poudnie, entrance from ul. Estoska), tel. (+48)
512 89 38 98. Seconds away from the hectic Washington
roundabout, its difficult to believe how tranquil and relaxed
this place is. A prime example of Functionalism designed
in 1928 by Czesaw Przybylski for the sculptor Mieczysaw
Lubelski, this smallish restaurant is an unusually harmoni-
ous blend of rustic, modern and industrial elements. The
short menu of fers a seasonall y changing sel ection of
European-style dishes mixed with a healthy dose of Polish
ingenuity and locally sourced produce. The staff are some
of the best we have come across in Warsaw - helpful and
extremely knowledgeable about all aspects of the menu.
Funkcjonalnas trump card is the enclosed garden area,
perfect on a warm summer evening. Also, check out the BWA
and Asymetria art galleries which are based in the building.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (25-60z).
PTA6GSW
Meat Love B-4, ul. Hoa 62, tel. (+48) 22 404 67 36,
www.meatlove.pl. The audacious name would suggest a
barbarian bone-sucking, finger-licking orgy of dripping meat
juice (to us, anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, intimate,
eco-minded sandwich shop that effectively reclaims hipster-
dom from the vegans. Meat Loves specialty is fresh rolls
and baguettes stuffed with tender, organic, hormone-free
carnivorous delicacies, and theres a good selection of teas,
coffee and other drinks to accompany them. One also cant
help but admire the simple genius of their Belgian waffle
topped with pulled pork and maple syrup. The staff have
all the hallmarks a hip urbanite should: tattoos and studs,
scraggly beards and suave haircuts, but the atmosphere is
family-friendly and completely sincere. A great addition to
the neighbourhood, in fact its places like this that create
the illusion pocket neighbourhoods even exist in the capital.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (13-20z). A6GBSW
Pikna Bistro G-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Pikna Bistro went through a
major overhaul and reopened this classier spot in the fall.
The look is sleek, modern and simple now, but what hasnt
changed is their very reliable mix of pastas, salads, grilled
meat and fish dishes, whose preparation and presentation
will delight hungry diners. A recommended venue if you like
your meal served to the backdrop of live jazz. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (27-60z).
PTAUEGSW
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,
tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter
via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall filled
with the sound of beery antics and oompah music. The word
here is size, with Warsaws biggest portions coming within
a whisker of sending tables keeling. This is basically meat,
cabbage and potatoes served on huge wooden boards by
waitresses obviously less fragile than they look. Certainly the
best value in Old Town, with beer usually playing a big part
in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-50z). PTAEGSW
NEW
Po Pr ostu Ar t Br i sto Zacht a B- 3, Pl .
Maachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 77, www.
poprostuzacheta.pl. Located in the basement of the
internationally renowned Zachta Art Gallery, Po Prostu
is the perfect culture vulture nesting place. It has suc-
ceeded in converting the old arched basement space into
a bright and popular bistro. The nice mix of traditional and
modern design means everyone can feel at home here.
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60
22 52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a
pleasant orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter-
free locations in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has
a crowd that mixes young Praga hipsters with moms toting
strollers, all tucking into a menu that seems to offer dishes
from around the globe (Hungarian-style pancakes with stew,
for a start). We stuck to the Polish fare and found the potato
pancakes to be a winner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (16-45z).
PTA6UGSW
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst
Warsaws biggest and best hotels, this place doesnt have
to be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made us
love the place all over again, as the menu of simple Italian
classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look
out for the changing specials, which on our last trip included
some terrific grilled salmon with leek sauce. A 19zl lunch
special from 12:00-16:00 gets you soup and a main, and
note to parents with tots: theres a childrens playground avail-
able for your wee ones every Sunday. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (22-49z). PTAUVGSW
Grand Kredens A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. (+48)
22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few places in
Warsaw match this for a fine, dare we say splendid dining
experience. The decor is tremendously, enjoyably eclectic,
and the menu - with a terrific variety of fish (amongst much
else) to savour - well up to the challenge of its rivals. It is not
by any means the cheapest place in town, but we would be
fairly certain that however big the bill, you will leave feeling
well satisfied. This has been around Warsaw longer than we
have and its a treat. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
24:00. (30-100z). PTA6UEGSW
GR Bistro & Restaurant B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (en-
trance from ul. Grskiego), tel. (+48) 22 828 42 85,
www.grbistro.pl. A two-level bistro set on a quiet street
just away from the hustle and bustle in the centre of the city.
A small downstairs area connects to an intimate upstairs
with black and white prints on walls tastefully decorated
with striped wallpaper set above wooden picture rails. The
menu is concise featuring an international selection of well-
prepared and presented dishes including soups, salads,
pastas and meat dishes. Good as a lunch stop, where the
daily specials are well-worth the few euro prices, it is a
particularly recommendable as a place for an intimate meal
away from the crowds of Chmielna with the food matched
by a good selection of wines and cocktails. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (25-54z).
TA6GSW
NEW
Kaskrut B-4, ul. Poznaska 5, tel. (+48) 22 622 54 38.
Small venue with big ideas! Although we suspect the modest,
enthusiastic and friendly French owner would play down the big
ideas part, the truth is this is one of the most innovative and
experimental eateries in town. The three starters/three mains/
three desserts menu changes every two weeks and consists
of flavour and ingredient combinations which at first glance
may look bonkers, but in the end youll feel silly for ever having
questioned them. We had the salmon, caramelised pineapple
and harissa served in flat bread and an amazing dessert which
included aubergine and halva foam served with meringue.
Marvel at the easy-going teams skills by seating yourself down
in front of the open kitchen. Considering the whirlwind of innova-
tion, its impressive that nothing on the menu costs over 30zl.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (19-30z). PA6GW
40
RESTAURANTS
41
RESTAURANTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
The mainly Italian and Polish menu is well suited to the atmo-
sphere and the starter menu is great for light snacking after
wandering around the gallery. Add to this a comprehensive
wine and alcohol list, a fine breakfast menu (though who-
ever added Frankfurters to the English breakfast should be
severely punished), weekend live music and their own exhibi-
tions programme and you may well forget to visit the gallery
itself. Dont make that mistake, however, Zachta is a great
art gallery! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(20-45z). PTA6UGSW
Restauracja Concept 13 C- 4, ul. Bracka 9, tel.
(+48) 22 310 73 73, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Tucked
inside the high-end VITKAC shopping center, Restauracja
Concept 13 lives up to its luxurious location with soaring fifth
floor views of the city and stylish design. The modern urban
eatery is open all day, including for breakfast, but offers its
best deals at lunch (11:00-16:00 Mon-Fri) where 50z gets
you multiple courses of their creative cuisine - trust us, its a
deal. If the weather allows then theres no place better than
the terrace, even if its just for a cocktail. QOpen 08:00 -
23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. (82-97z). PTAUXSW
Restaur acj a Kul tur a B- 2, ul . Kr akowski e
Przedmiecie 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www.
restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino
Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest
locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of
the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings.
Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons will bring
a bowl of urek soup to your table before presenting you with
a bill that should, given quality, be far higher. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (35-62z). PTAGSW
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.restaurac-
jawilanow.com. An extraordinary excursion back to the days
of a planned Polish economy, this much talked about classy
restaurant serves a range of international and Polish food in
a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about
the place theres no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly
snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat dragged
in if youre not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(32-58z). PTA6GBS
Restaurant Jasna 24 B-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48)
22 447 24 41, www.jasna24.pl. The great thing about
Jasna 24 is the fact that the chef has managed to come
up with an excellent, unique and forward-thinking menu
which changes with the seasons. Add to this the fact that
they have a rather good wine list and its highly unlikely
that youll be disappointed. Enjoy an exotic mix of dishes
(it would be folly to name any as they change often) in a
well-designed, modern setting with some cool mood-lighting
adding to the atmosphere. The charming and professional
staff are well versed in the expression attention to detail.
On Wednesdays from 20:00 youll find concerts and live
music to go with your food, and a DJ rolls in at 21:00 on
Fridays and/or Saturdays (you never know which). QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (25-
69z). PTAEGS
Restro A-4, ul. Paska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66,
www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central
Warsaw streets have a habit of ending abruptly before re-
appearing again sometimes hundreds of metres away on
the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you
hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch
spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the UN
roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features offers
a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes with a
distinct Mediterranean feel. The tagliatelle with scampi and
coriander is a steal at around 6 euros although we often have
a dilemma between that and one of the salads, the beef and
spinach being another winner. Recommended but mind the
opening hours. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (21-39z). PTAVGS
SAM Bakery & Restaurant C-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel.
(+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Fresh baked bread,
plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs and superfoods
like acai...its safe to say that SAM has arrived in Warsaw with
some strong credentials, and after our visit we can declare
it the Charlotte of the student set. Youll find the same lacka-
daisical service and hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zba-
wiciela hotspot, and if you can overlook these flaws youll be
delighted with healthy dishes that ensure youll forever be able
to squeeze into those skinny jeans. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (15-35z). TA6UGSW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. If location
is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Commanding a
prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiecie a stones throw from
the presidential place it looks like an architects show-home
yet manages to create a decent atmosphere thanks to the
students who flock here for coffee after lectures. By night
the crowd gets trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen
eating the well-priced food through the glass walls. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. (18-45z). TAUGSW
Socjal C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 787 18 10 51.
Socjal comes with excellent pedigree - its the creation of
the folks behind 12 Stolikw, which was named one of the
top 5 restaurants in the city last year. Socjal is another win
24 Gornoslqska, Str. - 00-484 warszawa
tel. +48 22 628 94 23
rezerwac[eQbrasserlewarszawska.pl
facebook.com/brasserlewarszawska
THL PLSTAUPANT ls lnsplred by the tradltlons of warsawand the modernlty of
Lurope. Our menu was created uslng a mlxture of slmpllclty and elegant taste. Our
stanare passlonate and guarantee to look after thelr guests wlth genulne hospltallty.
AUN|QUL 8AP wlth zlnc surfaces, orlglnal bar stools and an unbeatable atmosphere.
Open every day froml2 noon. we serve classlc cocktalls and champagne.
|n addltlon a perfectly deslgned PP|vATL POOMhas lts own orlglnal character.
|t's ldeal for groups of up to l2 people. |t can be [olned together wlth a dlnerent
roomto provlde space for 24 people.
for this crew, boasting a rotating menu of Italian entrees and
salads (prosciutto and melon for the win) that diners order
via the restaurants chalkboard. The communal tables force
diners to be socjal with their neighbours, an asset when
you see a delicious plate and want to casually ask, Whats
that? QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00. (28-68z). PTA6EGSW
Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96, www.
solec.waw.pl. Solec 44 marries two of the best things
around at one location: delicious food and the joy of beating
the crap out of your friends at board games. Come for the
grub - which is a delectable menu of fresh, local and seasonal
options plus hearty sandwiches - but stay for the chance
to crack into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble with a beer in
hand. The space itself (which can be tough to find and is
tucked behind a kebab shop) is sprawling and ideal for long
evenings of dice rolling, especially when the sun stays out
so late. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. (25-90z). PTA6GSW
Winestone A-4, ul. Zota 48, tel. (+48) 22 697 37 55.
The Mercure Hotels new concept restaurant continues to
build on its early success and is proving a popular venue for
the local business set. The name Winestone comes from the
menus selection of Les Planches - dishes served on simple
stone tablets, and the incredible range of fine wines that are
in stock here. The menu also covers a range of seasonally
changing international and French style dishes, as well as
some modern interpretations of Polish classics. Presentation
is slick and the staff are wonderfully polite and professional.
The relaxing and modern interior is perfectly unstuffy and
features Warsaws must have restaurant design element of
the year - the open kitchen. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (14-59z).
PTA6UGSW
42
RESTAURANTS
43
RESTAURANTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Winiarnia Restauracja Superiore F-4, ul. Pikna
28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiorewine-
bar.pl. Yet another business venture which has decided to
make the move from the increasingly sad looking Miasteczko
Wilanw posh estate and into the centre of the city. Its new
home finds itself a few doors down from Krystyna Jandas
( just nod and pretend you know that shes a very famous Pol-
ish actress) Teatr Polonia, making it an excellent choice for a
few pre-performance aperitifs and a bite to eat. The interior
is slick rustic with the shelves of wine bottles making up much
of the dcor. Italian wines take priority here, but youll also find
a good selection of Spanish and Austrian wines. The heavenly
cooking smell upon entering the wine bar drags you, trance-
like, towards the menu. Fridays see an ever-changing seafood
menu, with fresh catches brought in each week for Fridays
specials - everything from mussels and oysters to fish and
octopus! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (35-60z). PAVGSW
Winosfera A-3, ul. Chodna 31, tel. (+48) 22 526
25 00. Coming across as a shopping mall for wine lovers,
even including a cinema, its a little difficult to pinpoint what
Winosfera actually is. Best considered a number of ventures
under one vast roof, all linked by the humble grape. Wine and
food go hand in hand, so the restaurant is a key element. The
raw brickwork and plaster grey interior has all the modern
charm of a re-fitted factory space and features the must
have current trend of the open kitchen. Head chef, Jakub
Adamczyk, previously worked at Londons The Square
(two Michelin stars) and the legendary Amber Room in
Warsaw. Expect culinary magic from the short and perfectly
constructed menu. The clean and perfect presentation of
dishes, such as roast rump of lamb with fall vegetables and
lamb consom, are rapidly turning the restaurant into one of
Warsaws top eateries. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(99-86z). PAUGSW
urawina Rest & Wine B-4, ul. urawia 32/34, tel.
(+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Stylish and
spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it should be
attached to a modern art museum and is about as fashionable
as they come, while still maintaining a level of casual comfort
that wont put off those of us who dont spend half our pay-
checks on our hair. Post-modernist paintings and slick plastic
seating are off-set by elegant place settings, fresh flowers and
gorgeously presented dishes. Choose from a large selection
of bruschetta, sexy drinks and desserts, or dive into to-die-for
dishes like rib-eye steak with apple pastry, roasted potatoes
and truffle butter (58z). The place of choice for well-bred
Varsovians on rich dates, business meetings and mixers, in
the evening its a great cocktail and wine bar. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (38-68z). PTAEGSW
Italian
AiOLI Cantine B-3, ul. witokrzyska 18, tel. (+48) 22
657 21 26, www.aioli-cantine.com. Turning communist-
era commercial space into an appealing dining destination
is no easy illusion, but Aiolis urban canteen aesthetic turns
the trick with aplomb. Dominated by two large circular bars
- one around the kitchen hung with colanders and racks of
prosciutto, the other an actual drink bar ringed with wine
glasses - wooden furnishings dressed with fresh herbs do
much to dispel the brick and concrete, while excellent service
further elevates the atmosphere. The short menu of salads,
sandwiches, pasta and pizza, plus some great breakfasts,
makes the most of each option by including tantalising in-
gredients (many of which you can take home with you in jars)
and the prices are very reasonable. High quality all around,
and therefore high marks from us. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (26-70z). PTAUVGBSW
Dziurka od Klucza C-3, ul. Radna 13, tel. (+48) 500 15
04 94, www.dziurkaodklucza.com.pl. Pixie-sized family run
restaurant located on a lovely pre-war street in Powile. With ev-
erything handmade on the premises, Agnieszka and Stanisaw
Szpilowscy have successfully turned their passion for pasta
into a full-time business. The process is on full view thanks to
the open kitchen and nattering away with the cooks while they
work makes for a friendly and casual atmosphere. Dziurka od
Klucza means keyhole and much of the interior is made up of
old doors and any opportunity to add a key to the dcor isnt
missed. Slightly mummsy violet and lavender pastel colours help
to make the place look bigger than it actually is; in fact, its best
to avoid if you suffer from claustrophobia! QOpen 12:00 - 21:30,
Sun 12:00 - 20:30. (19-40z). TA6GBSW
NEW
Mka i Woda A-4, ul. Chmielna 13 A, tel. (+48) 22
505 91 87. They say: Neapolitan wood burning pizza oven,
the freshest Italian ingredients - including San Marzano to-
matoes, Caputo flour, Di Campania buffalo mozzarella, home-
made ricotta and pastas. Customers, including Warsaws top
food critic and over 5,500 Facebook fans, say: A master class
in authentic Italian culinary brilliance. We say: We dont know!
We spent 15 minutes on an early Friday evening in an almost
empty restaurant waiting for a menu. Eventually one of us
went and picked one up. Another 15 minutes sauntered by
as we watched a waitress clearing another table in a manner
that suggested she was trying to solve an extremely difficult
jigsaw puzzle. Finally, we exchanged saddened glances and
headshakes with the couple at the next table who had been
waiting longer than us and gave up five minutes before we
did. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 16:00,
17:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (22-
40z). PTA6UGSW
Dont expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare
insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state,
this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall
of communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced
out of business although a few of these canteens have
survived and, aside from offering an interesting diversion
for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat
lots in return for a handful of coins. A Polish friend will know
which are the best and it is still interesting to see many
younger Poles still making regular visits to their favourite
one. Value is value wherever you are. Queue up at the
counter, peruse the choice of soups, meat and veg on offer
before placing your order, then watch in awe as matronly
ladies serve up everything from budget excellence to bowls
of slime. Weve seen both ends of the scale being reached
in the same place. One tip is to go earlier as the choice
and quality in some tends to fall as the day progresses. In
Warsaw keep an eye out for ones we list here.
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39,
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13z). PUGS
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23, www.leniwagospodyni.pl.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
(10-20z). A6GS
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34, www.mleczarniajerozo-
limska.pl. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 47 (B-4). QOpen 09:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (6-12z). PUGS
Milk Bars
FREN
C
H
TREN
D
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FROM
Zurawia 32 5treet
eservaticns: +48 22 521 06 66
facebcck.ccmlzurawinc
www.zurawina.eu
FINE DINING UNTIL 24:00
WE INVITE YOU FOR LUNCH, BUSINESS MEETINGS AND BANQUETS
44
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45
RESTAURANTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Nu Jazz Zone C- 4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
621 89 89, www.jazzone.pl. Slick, modern interiors
with soaring pillars and cavernous ceilings lend this place
fantastic acoustics, something youll notice the moment
a live act appears. Long established on what could be
considered Warsaws media street, the menu has been
given a completely new look with Italian replacing the inter-
national mix of old. And once again the food hits the mark
with our Gnocchi with pork both tasty and a good value.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (29-65z).
PTAEGBSW
Ora Basta Wine and Pasta B/C- 4, ul. Nowogrodz-
ka 20, tel. (+48) 22 625 07 37. Ora Basta offers a
fairly standard but nicely executed menu of Italian dishes.
Presentati on i s cl ean and col our ful and the decor i s
nicely matched to the colours on your plate. As well as
the main room at the front and an on-street terrace, the
interior features a couple of intimate little rooms, an open
kitchen area and a peaceful secluded garden space. The
menu changes daily but we found the crostini starters
come with a nice mix of dips, including chicken livers and
mushrooms wi th bacon. Sel ecting your own preferred
choice of pasta shape to go with the eight usual suspect
sauces is a nice touch and dont forget to wash that down
with an amazingly cheap glass of Italian wine (6zl) or an
astonishingly well priced bottle of prosecco (38zl). QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(15-20z). TA6GSW
Ristorante Repubblica Italiana H-3, ul. Francuska
40, tel. (+48) 22 465 81 83, www.repubblicaitaliana.
pl. Busy Italian restaurant close to the National Stadium.
Fresh and light interior and a comprehensive menu featur-
ing seafood, meats, pastas, ravioli and salads. Tempting as
everything is, its nigh on impossible not to hit the pizza menu.
Long regarded as one of the best pizza places on this side
of the river, the dough is thin, not burnt to a crisp and the
amounts of sauce and toppings are just right. In the summer
months Repubblica is blessed with having an outdoor ter-
race surrounding three sides of the restaurant and judging
by its popularity it really is one of THE places to be seen on
Saska Kpas high street. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:30. (25-65z). PTAGBSW
Roma G-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel.
(+48) 22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Atten-
tion to detail is apparent at Roma, and every aspect of this
secretive restaurant hints at the neighbourhood locales
youd find in the side alleys of Italy. The interior is intimate,
with silverware resting on cinnamon sticks and piles of crispy
breadsticks on every table. The menu itself is encyclopaedic
- were talking three pages of pastas - enabling Roma to build
a loyal fan base across the years. Were fans of the onion
and truffle cream soup, especially on rainy days, and if you
like strings of mozzarella dangling from your lips were fairly
certain you will too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (26-63z). PTAGSW
Roma Bukieteria C-4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48)
22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta might be
the kind of thing youre used to gorging on, but not here. Roma
Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, ter-
racotta and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners
and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of
pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time when sorting
through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria,
but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a
charming date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (24-69z). PTA6GSW
8yz l 8yba
ul. lkna 20
00-S49 Warszawa
1el. +48 22 627 41 S1
plekna[ryzlryba.pl
www.ryzlryba.pl
NEW
Sorbo Serpico ul. Wilcza 8, tel. (+48) 22 119 53
36, www.sorboserpico.pl. Stripped down from its previ-
ous Barbara Cartland in a tumble dryer incarnation as the
garish Bacio di Angelo, the new owners have succeeded
in turning this venue into a stylish and traditional looking
Italian eatery. The three small, well laid out rooms include
the popular grotto with its cave-like atmosphere empha-
sised by subtle lighting. Sorbos adherence to the old-school
look makes for a nice contrast to the red, white and green
minimalist look of much of the Italian competition in town.
We stopped in for lunch and it was excellent; complimentary
garlic bread, a hearty leek and vegetable soup and a main
course of pork medallions in a hot peppercorn sauce with
roast potatoes and a salad came in at a humble 23z. Ex-
pect hushed business talk from the neighbouring tables.
QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (40-90z).
PTA6GSW
Trattoria Rucola B-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48) 888
57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Trattoria Rucola has
taught us a simple truth: wed surely eat more salads i f
they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of garlic waft-
ing onto Krakowskie Przedmiecie will undoubtedly lure
you in, the strange leafy dcor will encourage you to grab
a table and the hefty menu of Italian staples will mean a
certain belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate the menu,
but we were intrigued by the rare sighting of doughy cal-
zones. The aforementioned salads are soaked in a lush
balsamic dressing that no one should be ashamed to lick
from their fingers (we did). Also at H-3, ul. Francuska 6 and
C-4, ul. Krucza 6/14. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-59z).
PTAVGSW
Japanese
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants
such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This
is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about
but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in every
major mall these days.
77 Sushi A- 4, ul. Sienna 83, tel. (+48) 22 890
18 11, www.sushi77.com. The number 77 mi ght
wel l refer to the number of sushi stops i n town - i n
fact, i t says a l ot about the ci ty that i ts now easi er to
fi nd sushi than i t i s a cabbage. Youre guaranteed the
real deal i n Sushi 77, where i magi nati ve sets - tr y the
Cal i forni a rol l s, or even the hot sushi - come chopped
and sl i ced i nsi de an attracti ve i nteri or. Some outl ets
of fer l ocal del i ver y. Al so at (F-4), ul . Pol na 48A, Al .
KEN 49 (Ursynw) and ul . Sawoj a-Skadkowski ego 4
(Ursus, CH Skorosze). QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-49z).
PTAVGSW
Besuto C- 3, ul. Nowy wi at 27, tel. (+48) 22
828 00 20, www.besuto.pl. Besuto has moved from
among the prefab cabi ns and ramshackl e pavi l i ons
i nsi de Nowy wi at 22 to a more vi si bl e l ocati on j ust
down the street at 27. The good news i s the sushi ,
whi ch has hi stori cal l y been ver y decent hot and col d
cuts prepared i n front of your eyes, i s sti l l rel i abl y del i -
ci ous, and the new storefront i s si gni fi cantl y l ess l i kel y
to make your date questi on your commi tment - - the
i nteri or al so gets marks for bei ng bri ght and modern.
The bad news i s that a better l ocati on means hi gher
pri ces than Besuto l oyal i sts mi ght be used to, but i ts
wor th i t to di g a l i ttl e deeper. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00,
Fri , Sat 12: 00 - 24: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 22: 00. (21-52z).
PTA6VGSW
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy wiat 46, tel. (+48) 22
828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi
spots in Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue
with sitting outside on swanky Nowy wiat? - but the helpful
staff, great tea options and fair prices put it squarely on
top. A vegetarian sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging
from kappa maki to inari was tops, and the tempura is
crispy rather the soggy we often encounter. Ducking in for
a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with
miso soup, a salad and green tea for a reasonable price.
The small storefront means you may have to fight for a
seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-60z). PTAVGSW
NEW
Ry i Ryba F/G-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 50, www.ryziryba.pl. Congratulations are due to this
sushi bar for being one of the only Japanese eateries we
can think of whose name doesnt end in the letters o or
i; instead theyve gone for the straight-forward Ry i Ryba
(Rice & Fish). This smart little place is situated close to the
famous Plac Konstytucji at the entrance to the Pikna 20
modern office block and attracts many of the suited and
booted class from the building. All the old favourites are
on the menu, freshly prepared by the Polish trained sushi
masters. Belonging to the same owners as the ever popular
Pikna Bistro next door, you can expect to have some cool
jazz piped through the sound system while you twiddle your
chopsticks. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(12-42z). PTAUGSW
Soto Sushi C- 4, ul. Wilcza 26, tel. (+48) 22 629
94 85, www.sotosushi.pl. Warsaws Sushi gl i tterati
have al ways rated the ori gi nal Soto Sushi on Al. KEN
very hi ghl y indeed, wi th many devotees regularl y making
the pi l gri mage to deepest, darkest Ursynw i n order to
vi si t thei r favouri te shri ne. Wel l, now they don t need
to bother, Soto have opened another branch i n the
centre of the ci ty! The cri sp whi te and mi ni mal i nteri or
hi ghl i ghted wi th pal e green neon wal l l i ghti ng makes
for a rather steri l e l ook whi ch made me thi nk of those
ul tra-vi ol et fl y zappers i n butchers shops, probabl y
j ust my overacti ve i magi nati on though. On the other
hand, the overal l l ook of thi s sushi bar presents a feel -
i ng of cl eanl i ness and order whi ch i s refl ected i n the
beauti full y presented and carefull y prepared sushi. The
sal mon tar tare gunkanmaki i s yummy and a speci al
menti on has to be made for the ki l l er l emon pepper
shri mp soup. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. (32-56z). PTAVGSW
Tomo Sushi C- 4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22
434 23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you wont find
better sushi in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the
masses. Tomos reputation is well earned, and as such
dont be surprised to be knocking elbows with sushi snobs
showing off deft chopstick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-80z).
PTA6UGSW
Lebanese
Le Cedre 84 A- 3, Al. Solidarnoci 84, tel. (+48)
22 618 89 99, www.lecedre.pl. This popular Mi ddl e
Eastern stapl e hops across the ri ver to a more acces-
si bl e l ocation at the intersection of Jana Pawa and al.
Solidarnoci and thankfull y brings all their reliabl y exoti c
flavours along too. The interior is a magenta masterpiece
and sets the scene for you and your Scheherazade to
expl ore the hefty menu. Our recommendation: though
were fans of the entrees like shawarma your best bet
i s to mi x and match hot and col d starters, of whi ch
theres a dazzling array (stuf fed grape l eaves and grill ed
hall oumi top our list). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-59z).
PTAVGSW
Mediterranean
Olive Garden A- 3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. (+48) 22 624
01 91, www.restauracjaolivegarden.com. No need
to squirm, this isn t the bland Oli ve Garden chain youre
familiar wi th. Rather, this Oli ve Garden brings a decidedl y
exoti c brand of dishes to Warsaw in the form of Medi ter-
ranean and Mi ddl e Eastern cuisine like homemade pi ta
bread and sweet kunafeh. For 12-20zl you can nab a
lunch special of an appetiser (we suggest the house-
made hummus), entree and desser t, al l del i vered i n
l i ghtni ng speed to the hungry be-sui ted crowds. The
avai l abl e summer garden and sheesha pi pes means
Oli ve Garden is also a promising post-work spot to un-
wind. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Cl osed Sat, Sun. (22-62z).
PTA6XSW
Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16a, tel. (+48) 22 828 10
67, www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and
last place in Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair
and helped us with our coat - - colour us charmed by the
gallantry. That attention carried over to the meal, with
Greek stapl es like hefty salads and bi te-sized spana-
kopi tas all i mparti ng the taste of the Medi terranean.
The restaurant itsel f is so large it can be hal f filled with
customers and still seem spacious, even with a packed
white wraparound bar in the middle of the room. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (18-73z).
PTAUEGSW
Daily: 10:00 - 22:00
UL. ORDYNACKA 10/12
+48 (22) 826 70 60
www.restauracjaoliva.pl
facebook.com/restauracjaoliva
MEDITERRANEAN
DELIGHTS
IN THE HEART OF WARSAW
Enjoy our modern olive oil based menu,
in its various types and avours.
R E S T A U R A C J A
Ichiban Sushi C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 61, tel. (+48) 22
692 45 45, www.ichibansushi.pl. A fine city centre loca-
tion for this small sushi bar chain. Small is the key word here,
not helped by the addition of an upper level, which makes the
ground level area feel very low and claustrophobic. The walls
are totally covered in Japanese calligraphy, making you feel
like you are having your eyes tested by a rather thorough Tokyo
optician. Having said that, the menu is fairly extensive and the
miso soup garners high praise from those in the know. Due to
the ever-changing promotions and voucher schemes, Ichiban
is fantastically popular amongst the lunchtime eat something
quick and get back to the office crowd. Well priced and good
quality, but not a place to visit for a special dinner date. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (20-30z). PTAUVGSW
Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622
59 55, www.inaba.pl. Heres a restaurant that was around
years before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese
owned and run everything about Inaba strives for authentic-
ity, and this is one of only three places in town that can claim
a Japanese master chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A
pleasantly panelled interior creates a great atmosphere and
those who want more than just raw fish should take a look at
the grill dishes (be sure to try the salmon in teriyaki sauce).
QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58z). PTAVGSW
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska
17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice
when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated
place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle
menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh,
spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At
around 25z a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the
seafood ones are best - represents terrific value. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (25-65z). PTAUVGSW
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Polish
There are basically three ways you can experience the Polish
dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surprisingly
large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars, which
you can read about elsewhere. Then there are the chains of
country cottage style places which turn out Polish staples
of rye soup, stuffed dumplings and heaps of meat and veg
in gut-busting portions. The third form is still a relatively new
one and involves a growing number of young, world-class
chefs using their talents to bring Polish cuisine into the 21st
century. We can happily recommend all three forms depend-
ing on the occasion. Take a look at the places listed here to
give you an idea of which is which.
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23, tel.
(+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fixture
on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and still going
strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design
which is space age white and rather dashing compliments
a highly-recommended, global menu which includes whats
possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located within a stones
throw of some of the citys finest hotels, this is one of the
most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper
whether youre socialising, doing business or a bit of both.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (29-99z). PTAUGSW
Atelier Amaro G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628
57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. Its not hyperbole to call
Atelier Amaro one of Polands most modern restaurants, and
the folks at Michelin certainly agree; it is the first restaurant
in the country to land a coveted Michelin star. All the credit
goes to famed chef and owner Wojciech Modest Amaro,
Restauracja Oliva C-3, ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel.
(+48) 22 826 70 60, www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Take a
well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy wiat and visit
this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restaurant on the
quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based menu includes
a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes and pizzas which
are created to their own recipes. A stand-out main dish is the
succulent Guinea fowl piccata, game rarely found on Warsaw
menus. As the name suggests, the menu is strongly influenced
by the use of olive oil and the restaurant also has a display of
fine olive oils from a number of countries for sale. Staff get full
marks from us for neither pretending to be your best mate, nor
seeing you as their worst enemy - they get it just right. The corner
location also has a nice terrace area for the warmer weather.
Considering the ambience and quality, prices are excellent.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (18-62z). PTAUGSW
Middle Eastern
Sokotra C-4, ul. Wilcza 27, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66,
www.sokotra.pl. The restaurant takes its name from the
isolated Yemeni island of Sokotra, a geographic location
once described as the most alien-looking place on earth.
Warsaws Sokotra is neither isolated nor alien-looking, its situ-
ated in the city centre and its interior is a cool modernist take
on the simplest of Arabic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine
is heavily influenced by Indian, reflected by the heavy, rich and
well-seasoned sauces with most of the dishes here - ideal for
some serious roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli
soup was stunning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish was
great. Theres standard table dining if youve just had your hip
replaced, or try the cushioned floor sitting area for an even
more authentic experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (20-40z). PA6UGSW
who describes the cuisine as where nature meets science.
That science is molecular gastronomy, which means almost
nothing is as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the
table with a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a
surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 moments
(what us regular folks call courses) and employ traditional
Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly
creative dishes - like juniper ice cream hugging a miniature
chocolate cake with chestnuts (with dishes changing almost
daily, your menu will undoubtedly be different). Count us as
impressed that Amaro himself can be seen serving many
of the dishes in this intimate restaurant just inside azienki
Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies. Q Open 12:00
- 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30; Mon, Sat 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
(150-250z). PAUGW
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22
558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Nestl ed i nsi de
azienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with
foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside
and out. Although the landscaping is undergoing renovation,
Belvedere is still a dramatic venue with peacocks wandering
the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service.
The food lives up to the atmosphere, and a menu overhaul
means youll have a variety of new dishes to choose from.
Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and
dare we say women are right to assume a booking here
means something big is in order. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(40-90z). TAGS
Biaa G G-5, ul. Belwederska 18 a, tel. (+48) 22
840 50 60, www.bialages.pl. Biaa G unseated a
favourite restaurant, Restauracja Polska Tradycja, and used
their name as the subtitle (in large font). We were inclined
to dislike it as a result, but after a visit we couldnt help but
enjoy. The menu is definitely upper-crust - you can get a
coated goose for 490zl if the mood strikes - but the changing
seasonal menu is both more reasonable and creative. The
dumpling with goose and cranberry sauce was rich yet light,
a description that is also apt for the dacquoise meringue
with coffee crme. The over-decorated interior, complete
with Polish music from the 1930s, has to be overlooked for
enjoyment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40-
60z). PTAGSW
Bistro Warszawa B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3,
tel. (+48) 22 635 37 69, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Proof
that not every restaurant on the Old Town square has to be a
kitschy Polish throwback comes in the form of stylish Bistro
Warszawa, where soothing whites and greys - and not a knick-
knack in site - offer a modern oasis in the heart of the city.
The menu is similarly forward-thinking, with pre-war Polish
cuisine with marinated herring in truffle oil and a crisp pear
and walnut salad. And while the atmosphere (and the regular
jazz performances) suggest an upscale experience, dont
be afraid to order the more pedestrian Bistro burger, which
comes complete with a paper cone of french fries. Theres
also a kids menu available upon request and a small corner
of toys for the wee ones. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27-49z).
PTA6EGSW
Brasserie Warszawska G-3, ul. Grnolska 24,
tel. (+48) 22 628 94 23, www.brasseriewarszawska.
pl. From the fine folks behind the peerless Butchery &
Wine comes Brasserie Warszawska - a culinary capstone
that will surely court the attention of the folks at Michelin.
Praise is well-deserved here with exquisitely prepared and
presented cuisine matched by expert service in an interior
that feels both modern and classic at the same time. Dishes
When it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt
what other countries would now consider routine. So it
goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has reached
a fevered pitch in many major cities while Warsaw is
just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of new (and
already popular) venues are using their green status as
a major lure for customers in effort we expect will soon
be duplicated all over the city.
Caf 6/12 C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622
53 33, www.612.pl. A prominent Warsaw caf, and one
popular with ad execs and scenesters. Making good use
of the high ceilings and socialist granite touches 6/12
features trance like music and subdued lighting, adding
a chilled out element to this long-living establishment.
However, this place is so much more than a caf, and a
thumb through the menu confirms so; the smoothies, and
theres millions to choose from, are hands down the best in
the city, while food choices include a range of light gourmet
bites youd imagine a Kate Moss character stabbing her
fork at. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (20-65z). PTA6GSW
Green Patio B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. (+48)
22 628 21 04, www.greenpatio.pl. Feeling like all the
heavy Polish food is throwing your colon out of wack?
Green Patios wildly healthy tome of a menu has just the
thing for you. Dig into the zander wrapped in Westphalian
ham in currant sauce with boiled potatoes and corn salad
and you will feel instantly lightened after days of Polish
pork knuckle. All can be had in the quaint outdoor garden
or inside the impressive modern green interior - yep,
theres a tree growing inside. Sit beneath its shade
and enjoy a smoothie designed specifically to improve
your health. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(26-47z). PTAUGSW
Green Peas Eco bar & coffee B-3, ul. Szpitalna
5, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 85, www.greenpeas.pl. If
the mossy paint color didnt tip you off, then the menu at
Green Peas Eco Bar and Coffee will: these folks are seri-
ously green. Everything is made from organic products
free from genetic modifications and chemicals, theres
no microwave on the premises, nothing is deep-fried and
dates are typically substituted for sugar to maintain their
quest for natural cooking. The menu was designed with the
environment in mind, which can sound boring on paper but
is delicious on the plate. Breakfast runs from 9-12, salads
are just 15zl and combine impressively fresh greens with
homemade dressing, and tofu is a word youll see often.
Even the cola is organic! QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. (14-22z). PTA6GSW
Klubokawiarnia Resort B-2, ul. Bielaska 1, tel.
(+48) 507 17 99 35. What looks like a normal caf
at first glance is anything but: old bathtubs have been
turned into couches, metal shopping carts now serve
as seats, and the bar is made from colourful stacks of
old books (its worth a visit to their Facebook page to
see how they created this unique bar). Even cardboard
tubes have been reinvented as chairs. While the dcor is
decidedly reused, the food and drinks are true originals.
Cocktails are made with fresh fruit, while stomachs
can be lined with whatver tasty concoctions the chef
comes up with on a regular basis. Fortunately, you can
drink your bottled beer or Argentine cola without any
guilt since Resort makes recycling a part of its mission.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (10-12z).
PA6XSW
Healthy Eating
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like baked monkfish with white beans, sun-dried tomatoes
and chorizo are worth every grosz, but Brasserie isnt
above offering their take on more pedestrian fare like the
fish and chips special on Fridays. In fact, its an accessible
type of elegant that means no ties are necessary, so come
as you are to sample this mix of Polish and international
cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (35-
75z). PTAGW
Chopskie Jado F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance
from ul. Waryskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. I f youve been dying to try Polands tra-
ditional lard spread called smalec then this is your place.
A nationwide chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food
from the countryside, Chopskie Jado dishes up heaping
portions of meat and pierogis on wooden slabs, with a dish
of smalec and wedges of bread complimentary. The dcor
is country farm kitsch, with strings of hams and ancient
machinery dangling from the walls. Slide onto a wooden
bench (avoiding the decorative rusty saw) and start with
local soups served inside a loaf of bread before loosening
the belt and working through homemade dumplings and
shanks of meat served by staff that appears as i f theyve
just finished milking cows. A winning intro to Polish food.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-56z).
PTA6UGS
Dawne Smaki C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 49, tel. (+48) 22
465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Its great to find a
traditional Polish restaurant amongst the endless string
of international eateries on Nowy wiat. Dawne Smaki
thrives on old style Polish cooking, so get ready to sample
a comprehensive range of home-grown specialities. The
whole spectrum is pretty much covered, from the basics
like herrings in oil, pigs trotters in aspic, potato cakes and
pierogi, right up to some high class mains like venison
wi th spi nach and thyme. Al though a rather fearsome
looking fresh water based predator may not be on your
list of priorities, pike has always been popular throughout
Polands culinary history; the more adventurous should
try Dawne Smakis version, which comes fried and served
in a light creamy sauce with crayfish. Find Ciechan beers
on tap, and Thurs-Sun there is live music in the courtyard
garden. Private parties can rent a VIP space too. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(19-79z). PTAUEGW
Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
45, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl.
One of the top eats around, set to a swish country manor
background of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy lamb shank
in rosemary while aproned staff cater to your whim and
fancy in what is set to be one of the premier dining experi-
ences on the royal route. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-85z).
PTAGSW
Dom Polski H- 3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22
616 24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink
has been spi l t over the vi rtues of Dom Pol ski, some of
i t i n these pages, but there i s no getti ng away from the
fact that thi s i s a good restaurant. Found i n a di screet
vi l l a on Warsaws mi l l i onai res row you can expect Rol l s
Royce servi ce from the mi nute you wal k i n. The food i s
equal l y good, chosen from a menu whi ch i s merci ful l y
short, wi th j ust a coupl e of starters and several mai n
courses to choose from; how i t shoul d be, i n other
words. We went for the urek fol l owed by the potato
pancakes wi th smoked sal mon and red cavi ar, and
coul dn t faul t a thi ng. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-98z).
PTAUGSW
Florian A-3, ul. Chodna 3, tel. (+48) 22 620 93 98,
www.florian.pl. Transport yourself back to the 19th century,
if you ignore the flat screen TV, and gorge yourself on tradi-
tional Polish fare. The pastel coloured rooms are bedecked
with antiques, paintings, all forms of dried flora and various
bits and bobs. Luckily, Florian manages to stay just the right
side of being overly stuffed with such decorative items, mak-
ing it an ideal place to savour some old style Polish dishes in
a relaxing atmosphere. Perhaps not the most exciting item
on the menu, but the pierogi are exquisite! A hunting lodge
style bar, designed around a 300 year old fireplace, is located
in the attic room. The building itsel f is rather interesting,
originally built by General Wilhelm Mier as a barracks for
the Szwolezerow guard way back in the early 18th century.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-55z).
PTAXSW
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Walicw 13, tel. (+48) 22 890
16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising on the
outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of
traditional Poland. Its inside a rugged interior of stout furnish-
ings and ceramic pots youll find boys and girls in peasant
attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying Polish food
(think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the
city inside Gospoda, and thats never more so than when the
band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy
diners. Be sure to check out the wild Polish trout, an eco-
friendly dish that will have your shirt buttons pinging off in no
time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-69z). PTAUGSW
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Paska 85, tel.
(+48) 509 59 33 05, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Named
after one of Polands best loved operas Halka takes its name
seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly designed to
mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisaw
Moniuszkos popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly
touches this is upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite
what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have
a childrens corner. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -
22:00. (21-59z). PTAGSW
Literatka B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 87/89
(second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827
30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Located in the shadow of
Zygmunts column on the Warsaws poshest street, Literatka
is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an
impressive range of Polski and international dishes. Pierogi,
pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more than
acceptable sirloin steak. Its not bad at all and a suitable way
to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old
town, and the Mon-Fri lunch special (12:00-17:00 soup and
a main for 16zl) is a deal. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70z).
PTA6EXSW
LOKAL.BISTRO B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 64,
tel. (+48) 506 82 39 03. The former Grand Old Dame of
Warsaws designer burger bars, this bistro of high ceilings,
chalky walls, blonde wood and lots of varnished chipboard
has apparently grown disenchanted with Warsaws latest
food fad and is jumping off the burger bandwagon in mid-
February when they expand their menu. Fear not, the burgers
are staying on, but now youve got other grilled specialties
to choose from, plus regularly changing Polish and Interna-
tional dishes. Theres a heavy emphasis on local and Polish-
sourced ecological ingredients, and drinks-wise theres not a
Coke or Pepsi in sight; rather such oddities as beetroot juice,
Kwas Chlebowy (a traditional yeast fermented drink that may
well get your bowels going) and beer from the staggeringly
brilliant Browar Konstancin. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. (20-50z). TA6GSW
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 497 57 72
Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54
e-mail: [email protected]
www.literatka.com.pl
Restaurant Literatka
is pleased to invite you for delicious
dishes of traditional Polish and
international cuisine.
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Sony G- 4, ul. Pikna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler
strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sit-down
restaurant weve come to expect; this time the celebrity
restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar thats
a complete knockout. A glass case in the middle of the
restaurant houses a variety of canaps to choose from
- wouldnt the French die to see smalec and pickles on a
canap? - and the menu is populated with small meaty
dishes primarily in the 4-12z range (can we call it Polish
tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage with onion
jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with one entire wall
utilised for wine storage you can sip and snack your way to
pure bliss. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(12-36z). PA6GSW
Sowa & Przyjaciele G-5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance
from ul. Czerniakowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71,
www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl. The pet proj ect of wel l -
known Polish master chef Robert Sowa, this outstanding
restaurant raises the bar not only with its extensive range
of tantalising dishes that sound so good youll want to
eat the menu, but also with the level of hospitality. The
ostensibly casual, modern interior is elevated to elite by
elegant table settings and excellent service, and includes
not one, but two VIP rooms, plus a plush cigar room thats
also stocked with Scottish single-malt whiskies. To give
you a sense of the calibre of the cuisine here, our fillet of
wild gilthead on mashed green peas with butter-herb sauce
and caramelized young carrot was worthy of an award and
set us back 69zl. So delicious its almost embarrassing to
eat in public, we worry what might happen when we try the
venison. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (40-
110z). PTAUGSW
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22
831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restau-
rant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi
Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of
the names whove taken a seat here. The interior is a work
of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, its hard not to
feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect
indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill is
a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situation.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105z). PTJAGBW
Vivandier F-5, ul. owicka 37, tel. (+48) 22 423 44
40, www.vivandier.pl. One of the most regal restaurant
addresses in Warsaw - located inside an impressi vel y
renovated Mokotw mansion - has reopened as Vivandier
to industry accolades. In fact when it comes to exclusive din-
ing addresses, this hardly seems like a fair fight. Beautifully
decorated with period furnishings and antiques, full of light
and spread over 3 floors, the warm, timeless interiors are
inscrutable, and the staff performs a fine balance between
attentiveness and discretion while you enjoy the fruits of the
concise but excellent modern Polish menu. Our tuna steak
with roasted sesame tomato concasse, capers and saffron
risotto lived up to our haughty expectations, while the wine
list surpassed them. The exclusive and intimate VIP rooms
are also perfect for business meetings and breaking out the
cigars. When guests that you need to impress are in town, you
cant go wrong by taking them here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(36-89z). PTAXSW
Zapiecek C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 692
41 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this
pierogi kitchen assumes the Grandmothers country cottage
look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots
of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously
light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine.
If you dont fancy a sit down then check their street-level take
away window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie
28 (C-4), Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (19-36z). PTAGS
Portuguese
Central Grill A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 101, tel. (+48) 22
370 25 52, www.centralgrill.pl. Situated, ever so slightly,
on the wrong side of the Central railway station the location
isnt great, but its on the main drag and easy to find. The
restaurant faade doesnt look great, what with the Kebab
shop style menu in the window - a large garish board with
photos of meat and chips and a fine pic of a bleary-eyed fish
poking its head out of a sea of fries and some salad. Inside
its a different story, warm colours, professionally set tables,
the ubiquitous open kitchen and some quaint pictures made
up of traditional Portuguese tiles from the owners former
home of Madeira. The Portuguese and Brazilian staff excel
in their passion for grilling meat, plus a selection of Northern
Atlantic aquatic friends are also on the menu. A tad pricey, but
wait until you see the size of the portions and the side dishes.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25-59z). PTAUGSW
Russian
Babooshka C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 102, tel. (+48) 22
406 33 66, www.babooshka.pl. A smart little place, if
youre a peasant, otherwise be prepared for benches, beer
and borscht. Russian cuisine isnt for the faint hearted, and
the Babooshka chain excels at serving large portions of vein
clotting meats and veg to the masses. Also at ul. Krucza
41/43 (C-4) and ul. Grjecka 18/20 (E-4). QOpen 12:00 -
21:30. (20-40z). PTAUGSW
Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the
Red Hog) E-2, ul. elazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850
31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Workers of the worl d
uni te around a large choi ce of well -presented Socialist
Bl oc cuisine. Deri ving i ts name from a former meeting
place for members of the earl y communist movement,
l egend has i t that even Lenin pai d this place a visi t in
1909. The interior is based on the styl e favoured by the
1950s -1960s party eli te, and the walls are bedecked
wi th memorabi l i a of the era. Somehow the owners
have managed to carefull y si de swerve tackiness and
the whol e experi ence has a l ovel y, faded and nostal gi c
glam to i t. Immensel y popular wi th l ocals and tourists
alike (including Bruce Willis and boxing champ Lennox
Lewis), 2012 saw The Hog voted one of the 25 best and
most interesting restaurants in the worl d by the Spanish
Trade Leaders Club. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-69z).
PTAUGBSW
Restauracja Rana G- 5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracj arozana.
com.pl. A two fl oor pre-war vi l l a ful l of chi chi touches,
fl owers and crocker y. Ver y pretty, but youl l soon l earn
they attract return custom on account of the cooki ng,
not the i nteri ors. The setti ng mi ght l ook hi gh end but
the pri ces are cer tai nl y not, and youl l fi nd Rana
recogni zed across the ci ty as one of the best di nner
deal s around. The veal l i ver wi th oni ons and cherr y
sauce i s di vi ne. Pl enty cl ai m to open ti l l the l ast cus-
tomer but onl y these guys are the real deal - i f theres
peopl e di ni ng then the ki tchen wi l l stay open, and that
doesn t matter i f i ts mi dni ght or daybreak. Gi ve a qui ck
cal l ahead to check. QOpen 12: 00 - 24: 00. (30-70z).
PTAEGSW
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Seafood
Osteria F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl. Some
of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featuring fresh oysters,
langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and some very good octopus.
The modern interior includes hardwood and porthole finishes,
as well as aquariums from which African fish look on in alarm as
their colleagues meet a sticky end in the open kitchen. Q Open
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (56-122z). PTAGSW
Spanish
Casa Pablo A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324
57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Spanish restaurants are few and
far between in Warsaw, so its not hard to stand out if thats
the menu youre slinging. Yet Casa Pablo doesnt rest on those
laurels and ups the ante with creative Spanish-influenced cui-
sine that meant wed heard about their duck breast burger and
creamy cauliflower soup before crossing their threshold (another
notable entree that seafood lovers will appreciate is the scal-
lops). That doesnt even touch on the desserts, or the specials
weve seen...not that youll need any extra enticements once
youve explored this unique menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (50-85z). PTAUGBSW
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant C-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel.
(+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. The steak
trend in Warsaw shows no sign of losing steam as Ole adds to
the stiff competition amongst flesh slingers, but with a Spanish
twist. That theme is clear as soon as you step inside the small,
modern restaurant which uses images of Flamenco dancers to
line the mezzanine staircase. Weve seen diners swoon while
consuming the fresh tuna, and the Spanish tortilla packed
The steakhouse has enjoyed prime (get it?) placement on
Warsaws dining scene of late, and talk of the best cuts,
grass-fed beef and who has the juiciest New York strip
can be hashed out at this list of Warsaws steak-centric
restaurants.
Butchery & Wine B- 4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48)
22 502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.pl. A wonderful
addition to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for
originality and simplicity. Try to put the image of mass
slaughter over a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon out of
your mind and instead visit to be met by a polite and
well-drilled staff in pin-striped butchers aprons inside a
bright, modern, relaxed venue with an open kitchen and
enough wine on display to float a battleship. The menu
features a range of real steaks prepared exactly to order
and served on wooden boards with additional sauce and
side options. While it doesnt have to be steak (the rest
of menu looked mouth-watering) we cant imagine ever
daring to order anything but such was the enjoyment we
took from eating one. Recommended. Q Open 12:00 -
22:00. Closed Sun. (35-129z). PTAGW
NEW
Bydo i Poido C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22. The name may
look glam when written in Polish but it actually translates,
rather unglamorously, as Cattle & Troughs. Then again,
they do specialise in beef and alcohol so the name fits
perfectly. Steaks come from Polish, Argentine, Brazilian,
Scottish and Italian bred stock and a range of burgers
are also on the menu. I f you cant look into the eyes of our
bovine friends without bursting into floods of tears while
contemplating their future you may enjoy the hummus
veggie burger but in reality you probably wouldnt want
to be in here. The interior is rich and old fashioned with
a lovely green tiled bar and leather and rawhide seating.
Wines are selected speci fically to complement the beef,
and Nurembergs cult Tucher beer, in pils and wheat ver-
sions, is available on draught. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (21-189z).
PTA6GW
NEW
Muu Muu ul. Moliera 8, tel. (+48) 22 465 15 53,
www.muumuu.pl. Read the name out loud in a low
bellow, study the li fe size plastic cow by the entrance
and then take a wild guess at what were looking at
here? Yep, were back in the worl d of beef! This at-
tractive little restaurant on a short street near the Old
Town prides itsel f on using Polish beef from the green
pastures of Mazury and top-class Wagyu beef, reared in
the traditional Japanese way in Argentina, so the cattle
probably have tango music on their iPods and Borges
read to them while receiving massages. The menu is
split into meat, side orders and sauces, allowing you
to construct your own main course, and the illustra-
tions of cuts and explanation of cooking methods are
a nice touch. The wine list is extensive and red heavy.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-160z).
PTA6UGSW
Steak
with zucchini makes an ideal light lunch when you dont want
a slab of beef weighing you down. Oh, but when you do, Ole
spoils diners for choice with Basque, Kobe, Galician and even
Sirloin with foie gras. Ask your server what he recommends,
as ours was liberal with solid recommendations. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (60-200z). PTAGSW
Sol y Sombra A-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48) 22
404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Formerly Cuatro Caminos
Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have kept the formers kitschy
dcor as well as their consistently delicious cuisine (new owner,
new chef), which is authentically Spanish to the core. The lunch
special lands you soup and a main, and we cant say enough for
the gazpacho when its in season. The paella requires a bit of a wait
but its well worth it, and the tenderloin with goat cheese is also
highly recommended. As the third tapas bar to call this address
home were thinking this one is a keeper. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49z). PA6UEGBSW
Tex-Mex
Frida C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 42 18,
www.frida.pl. Mexican ballads, sombrero shaped ashtrays
and splashy pictures of Frida Kahlo; this place has the lot.
Service is great, flirty even, while the menu gets gongs for
featuring all the right Mexican suspects. Theres a distinct
lack of dynamite to the salsa, but all in all this is a decent
addition to Warsaws Mex offerings, and a definite alternative
to your more tried Nowy wiat venues. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (29-70z). PTAUEGS
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. In a country
that considers ketchup spicy were always trepidacious when
restaurants boast of any sort of heat factor. Fortunately,
the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isnt kidding when they call their
habanero mango salsa explosive. The rest of the Tex-Mex
menu also lives up to expectations, with outsized burritos few
adults can finish and a cheesy Philly taco thats so wrong its
right. And dont forget chicken wings for 1z on Tuesdays. Heck
wed probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash it down
with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF would blink if we
did since the mixed crowd of locals and ex-pats is equally as
focused on their salsa-laden plates. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (29-69z). PTA6EXSW
Thai
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99, www.
papaya.waw.pl. Well never tire of recommending Papaya, an
ice white venue rated as one of the best restaurants in the city.
Oysters come plucked from the aquarium, while an open kitchen
allows the pleasure of watching the chefs at work; these guys
dont miss a beat, and show off every trick in the book as they cre-
ate standout dishes like steamed bass in banana leaf and class
pad Thai. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (32-265z). PTAXSW
Thai Taste Express B-2, ul. Senatorska 26, tel. (+48)
666 10 15 00. Although one has an increasing choice to eat
Thai in Warsaw they do tend to be pretty chic, upmarket affairs
with price tags to match. These Thai guys have decided to ap-
proach their business from a different angle and proudly proclaim
themselves as Thai street food specialists. The tiny bar, situated
in the plush Plac Bankowy area of the city, isnt up to much in the
design department, but who cares when the food is tasty, cheap
as chips and the staff are a jolly sideshow in themselves? A big
thumbs up for the fact that they are not afraid to make proper use
of chilli. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. (12-19z). PA6GBSW
BEEF AND WINE
8 Moliera Street, Warsaw
Tel. (+48) 22 465 15 53
www.muumuu.pl
MuuMuuWarszawa
57
CAFS
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
56
RESTAURANTS
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Blikle Caf C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his doughnuts
back in his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sells a variety of
desserts and cakes that are famous in their own right. A
classy, august venue, with a menu available until midnight
that includes a range of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams
and a dessert selection that will have you in heaven. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. PTAGSW
Bubbleology B- 3, ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleol-
ogy.pl. Few thi ngs have gotten us more exci ted than
the arri val (fi nall y!) of bubbl e tea i n Poland. Bubbl eol ogy
i s a UK chai n that of fers mi l k and frui t teas that can
be mi xed i n any number of combi nati ons - - j ust ask
one of the l ab coat-weari ng bubbl eol ogi sts behi nd
the counter for thei r most creati ve recommendati ons;
passi onfrui t and vani l l a? Taro and kumquat? I ts j ust
tea and tabl es here, but thats al l you need to enj oy
thi s tal l, col d refreshment. Al so at ul. Wooska 12 (E-7,
Gal eria Mokotw). QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:30
- 23:00. PA6GS
Cafe Baguette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 69,
tel. (+48) 22 828 76 10. Confronted with Cafe Baguettes
impressive wall of loaves and pastries its fair to question
whether you took a wrong turn on K-P and somehow ended
up in a cosy Parisian boulangerie. In a city where good bread
can be harder to find than happy stories Cafe Baguette is
a welcome (and already popular) addition. Salads, quiches
and thick sandwiches fill up their display case, while baskets
of croissants and desserty goodness surround the register.
The outdoor seats provide a great spot for people watching
while diving into sticky pastries. Also at ul. Zota 59 (A-4, Zote
Tarasy). Q Open 06:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 01:00.
AUGSW
Cafe Prna B-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620
32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaws
intellectuals is Cafe Prna, a cracking cafe set inside a
shattered building that looks ready to keel over. Youll be
lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more
so i f theres a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with
pre-war photographs, Prna comes with a pile of well-
thumbed history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles
and a basement level to soak up any overflow of custom-
ers. The onl y disappointment here are the smoothies;
nowhere near as good as the venue deserves. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
24:00. A6GSW
Caf Vincent C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48)
22 828 01 15. This place is a great French bakery and
coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and
bread. This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and
tiny shop space move quickly while you dither, and you also
risk being smacked by a baguette i f you turn around too
quickly, but its worth it as a coffee and croissant will set
you back less than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1,
Arkadia). QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 01:00.
PA6UGSW
Sodki Sony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22
622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedingl y ornate
interiors announce the arrival of one more Magda Gessler
venture, this one with a heavy emphasis on cakes, pastries
and chocolate. Theres guilty pleasures aplenty in this place,
and all packaged inside a design thats half Martha Stewart
and half English country house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon
11:00 - 24:00. PA6GSW
I f theres one uni versal truth about Pol es i ts that
they l ove their dessert. What mi ght be consi dered
a special treat or i ndul gence i n your country i s a
standard part of the meal, a stapl e not to be l eft out.
A lap past any i ce cream parl our or bakery typi call y
reveals l ong lines and hefty purchases (yet still the
Pol es stay impressi vel y skinny. Unfair). Evi dence of
this sugary fanati cism can be found in the l ong tradi -
tion of chocolate l ounges, cafes that are devoted
to the cocoa-dri ven nectar in a way you thought onl y
Hansel and Gretel coul d imagine.
Karmello B-3, ul. Chmielna 11, tel. (+48) 533
33 04 80, www.karmello.pl. Taki ng i ts ti me i n
coming to the capital, this general newcomer to PLs
confectionery tradition has already established itsel f
as one of the countrys finest chocolatiers with ten
shops in seven other Polish cities. Packed full of stun-
ning display cases that practically sparkle with over
50 varieties of exclusively-crafted chocolates - plus
truf fl es, chocolate bars, candied chocolate-dipped
frui t and other special ties - the hot chocolate and
cof fee concocti ons are per fect on a col d day and
theres a lovely terrace in the warm months. Ideal for
picking up a nice gi ft in a pinch, or plan ahead and
get some sweets personalised in advance. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. PTAUGBSW
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8,
tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl.
The reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like
theyre in a daze is because this is the mothership of
chocolate cafes, ground zero for all things dark, milk
and achingly sweet. Wedel is the countrys longest
established chocolate manufacturer and one of the
best known brands i n Pol and. Thi s cl assy venue,
featuring comfortable seating in room after room of
tables, is located in what was once the factory and
cafe of the Wedel business. Youll still be able to taste
the original chocolate creations of its founders which
were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce
a factory seal carrying his signature to combat the
number of forged Wedel products that were filling
the market in the 1860s. The menu here is impressive
in both its size and scope, covering every variety of
chocolate drink, dessert, truffle and ice cream dish
imaginable. Chocolate comas are inevitable. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PTAGSW
Wawel B-3, ul. Krlewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828
14 99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes it sounds awfully
similar to Wedel, and their histories are equally alike.
Confectioner Adam Piasecki founded the company in
1898 in Krakw and, making it through World War II,
Wawel became a recognisable Polish brand for sweets.
Their Warsaw chocolate lounge is located on swank
Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and though it is nowhere near
as vast as the Wedel lounge nor as daunting in menu
choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a ridiculous
array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolates impres-
sively diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry Crush
and Cinnamon Islands recommended for those who
like to compliment their chocolate with additional fla-
vours. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 21:00.
PAGBSW
Chocolate Lounges
Thai Thai B- 2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 601
81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Run by the Godfather
of Warsaws Thai cui si ne, Sanad Changpuen, thi s
restaurant i s 100% the real deal . No messi ng around
wi th fusi on concepts or l i t tl e Pol i sh addi ti ons. The
fi ve strong Thai ki tchen team sti ck fi rml y to tradi -
ti on and the resul ts are spectacul ar. Based i n the
Nati onal Theatre bui l di ng i tsel f, the exteri or of hef ty,
grey stonework gi ves you no i nkl i ng of the opul ent
i nteri or whi ch awai ts you. Bl ack wal l s decorated wi th
Thai desi gns and gol d cur ved cei l i ngs create a ver y
cal mi ng and rel axi ng envi ronment. The wel l l ai d out
seati ng areas al so of fer you the opti on of di ni ng i n a
more pri vate space, great for busi ness meeti ngs or
an i nti mate di nner date. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00. (37-
130z). PTAUGS
Ukrainian
Kamanda Lwowska C- 3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48)
22 828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Heres a
restaurant that gets back to basi cs, of fering up a cav-
al cade of dishes that have been otherwise del eted from
modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pi ctures and bri ck
ceilings this isn t the experiment in vani ty you expect of
ul. Foksal, choosing instead to hark to the times when
Ukrainian Lvi v was actuall y Polish Lww. The emphasis
is firml y on the good ol d days - before moustached dicta-
tors started di ctating Polands borders - and the desi gn
is a pl easing j umbl e of craftwork and clutter. The menu,
too, has been pai nstaki ngl y per fected, and i ncl udes
such masterstrokes as tatar and a meringue cake wi th
raspberry mousse. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (38-90z).
PTAEGBSW
Vegetarian
Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepolegoci 80, tel. (+48) 22 898
01 55, www.biosfeera.com. An ultra-funky interior full of
hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood fin-
ishes generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish
vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic way to prime
yourself for the meatless main courses that come with names
like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed
juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and expect
the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an ashtray.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39z). TA6UGSW
Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 602 27 17
50, www.greenbar.waw.pl. An oasis of veggie goodness
in the meaty heart of this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps
it simple - soup, quiches, light meals and the like - but does
so very well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a
steady stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just
about your only veggie option this close to the city centre,
we say get here while you can. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (12-15z). PAUGBS
Vegetarian World C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48)
691 21 65 64, www.vegetarianworld.com.pl. Warsaw
isnt really known for its abundance of specifically vegetarian
eateries, so its nice to be able to add a venue to our shortest
restaurant section. Interior-wise Vegetarian World really isnt
up to much, four tables in an undecorated room doesnt really
justify calling it a world! Putting that aside, the daily changing
menu is made up of the freshest ingredients and regularly
includes a selection of items on one plate plus a soup option
(the spinach and coconut milk soup is a jewel). Refreshing
drinks, like sugar-free mango lassi, are also available. QOpen
12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. (10-23z). GS
www.papaya.waw.pl
PapayaRestaurant
WE INVITE YOU
TO THE BEST
ORIENTAL RESTAURANT
IN WARSAW
00-372 Warsaw
reservations +48 (22) 826-11-99
ofce +48 (22) 826-48-51
16 Foksal Street
58
NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Bars & Pubs
Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of
the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample
Polands national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of local
beers. Youll be offered beer either in 0.3 or 0.5 litre sizes,
and prices depend greatly on how swank your establish-
ment; expect to pay 7-10z for a large beer for the most part.
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B-4, ul. Poznaska
12. Our favorite new addition to Warsaws bar scene, Beirut
is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags,
after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive oil-
soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer. While the
weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting pass-
ersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hairstyles
of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAUEGBW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaws best beer served in
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big
one here and youll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint
steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
British Bulldog Pub C-4, ul. Krucza 51, tel. (+48) 22
827 00 20, www.bbpub.pl. One of the biggest anti-climaxes
of 2012. Found in the venue that for many years housed the
uninviting London Steak House, the British Bulldog pub saw
the place completely rebuilt, a great year round terrace added
(where you can smoke) and the introduction of British and Irish
beers. A good looking menu and satellite television promised
some sort of choice for the English speaking expat zloty. And
then the British front man leaves shortly after the re-launch and
the place loses traction. Far be it for us to declare this place
as lost so early as it still looks impressive and the beer is wet
and the satellite connected, but its got a lot to do particularly
in the kitchen and on the service front to get a thumbs up from
us. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PABXW
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Caf) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1
(PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kulturalna.pl.
Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space,
and unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character.
Decorated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless 50s
chandeliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia. DJs,
film screenings, readings and assorted artsy tosh regularly
held. Find it in the Palace of Culture on the Marszakowska side
of the building next to the theatre in the south-east corner.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. AUEGW
NEW
Coctail Bar Max C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 691
71 00 00, www.barmax.pl. We also question the spelling,
but otherwise Maxs concept is fiendishly simple, colourful and
fun. Step up to the expert bar staff, give them a rundown on
your favourite tipples, fruits and taste sensations and - HEY
PRESTO - they concoct a magical potion especially for you!
Weird and wonderful fruits and glamorous bottles of booze are
imported from around the globe. The main bar area is a bright
and airy affair with bleached wood and multi-coloured seating.
Tucked away at the back of the bar you will find the dark and
mysterious specialist whisky and cigar area. Over 500 bottles
of the water of life stand like museum exhibits in dimly lit
glass cases. Stare in awe at the 32-year-old Port Ellen, yours
for only 550z a shot! QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAUXW
A thriving capital city it might
be, but Warsaw still lags be-
hind other European hotspots
when i t comes to hedonis-
tic capers. There is no area
trul y set aside for nightli fe,
and hailing taxis to get from
Bar A to Club B is a tediously
frequent occurrence. The area
around Pl. Pisudskiego and
Pl. Teatralny has become a
firm favourite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles,
somewhat replacing the more established territories
of Nowy wiat, Pl. Trzech Krzyy and ul. Sienkiewicza.
I f dressing to the nines is firmly out of the question
then consider heading across the river to the artsy bars
cropping up in the Praga district. In a worrying develop-
ment many clubs have now assumed the thinking that
the clothes maketh the man, and youll find most places
now operating a velvet rope door policy to ensure only
those kitted in their Saturday finery make it as far as the
dance floor. Open hours listed should only be treated as
rough approximation; in practise many bars and clubs
will open way beyond the call of duty if the need arises,
but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors
if business is slow.
Here are a few recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local:
Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that
churns out respectable vats of beer in a central loca-
tion. Plan B is a popular local hangout at bustling Pl.
Zbawiciela.
Cheap:
It has to be The Pavilions, a ramshackle collection of
dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that offers
Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. And if you dont mind
herring and 5zl vodka shots explore the 24 hour zakski
bars like Warszawska and Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa to
drink like a local.
Lads:
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pick from The
British Bulldog, Warsaw Tortilla Factory, Legends
and Someplace Else. If youve cleaned up and are ready
to impress hit up Foksal street for clubs like Sketch and
Foksal XVIII, which boast A-list clientele. But if your
requirements are a little more carnal read up on our
adult section and then proceed wisely.
Couples:
If you like to swill custom cocktails try newcomer Pies
Czy Suka, but if you prefer your drinks in one of two
colours - white or red - then try Vinoteka 13. However
i f your true love is obscure beers then Kwadrat will
melt your heart.
Splurge:
Panorama Bars cocktails are worth the dip into your
wallet, as are the views from the 40th floor (those drinks
will definitely cost you). If youre dressed to impress hit up
Club Capitol for the chance to drink like a champagne-
loving oligarch.
Night at a Glance
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Cuda na Kiju C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel. (+48)
662 00 61 06. Finally the wait is over and Warsaw has its
very own specialist draught beer bar. Housed in the former
communist party HQ, just next to the statue of General De
Gaulle, this 3 level bar hosts an impressive 16 taps pouring
beers from around Poland and Europe. The enthusiastic and
highly knowledgeable barmen are constantly on the prowl for
new guest beers for the ever changing menu. The interior
design is unobtrusive and kept to a minimum which makes
for a nice and airy atmosphere and outdoors features three
different seating areas, so take your pick depending on the
weather. The owners should really be given a special prize
for this brilliant initiative, in true Warsaw tradition what theyll
probably get instead is dozens of copycat bars appearing
around town in the coming months! QOpen 09:00 - 02:00.
PAEGBW
Drink Bar Jasna 24 B- 3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48)
22 447 24 41, www.jasna24.pl. Pop downstairs into
the drink bar area of the Jasna 24 restaurant for a more
l ai d back experi ence. The room forms an al together
darker and warmer space than the upstairs restaurant
yet manages to mai ntai n a si mi l ar el egant l ook. We
suggest you grab one of the couched areas, order a
sexy cocktail and j ust chill out for the evening. I f hunger
strikes and the short bar snacks menu doesn t l ook like
i t will stop your tummy rumbling, simpl y order from the
restaurant and the wai ting staf f will happil y bring your
order down to the Drink Bar. On Fri days or Saturdays
(you never know whi ch) a DJ appears to spin the latest
tunes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00. PAG
Haka Bar C- 4, ul. Bracka 20, tel. (+48) 606 52 31
68. Haka proves that size isnt everything and the raw
bri ckwork and i ndustrial l ook doesn t have to be i n a
building with the dimensions of a zeppelin factory. Run by
every Warsaw expats favourite Irishman, Kevin Bradley,
and his business partner Kasia Chelpinska, this 30m2
bar is a great place to mingle with locals and foreigners,
chill out with a glass of fine wine and attack the stunningly
innovative menu with gusto. In order to get a feel for the
ever changing international and modern culinary visions of
Kiwi chef Shane Baker, try out the mix and match sharing
platters. Keeping all the punters happy the daily lunch
menu regularly features meat, fish and vegetarian options.
Considering the quality on offer, prices are exceptionally
reasonable. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AGW
Hard Rock Cafe B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you
dont need to see Freddie Mercurys red leather pants to
enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesnt hurt. The Hard Rock
Cafes large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even
when live rock shows arent on the agenda. The endless
bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily
ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee
Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung
to Madonnas early 90s frame. When music is on tap the
crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as
devoted to the strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PAUGBW
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48)
502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not
find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place looks
like its been ransacked by students, and its almost advis-
able to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations
arent so much limited as virtually non-existent, and you wont
find much more than brick walls and a collection of seats that
appear to have been rescued from the rubbish. But while it
looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the best places in
town, with off-beat performances enjoyed by a crowd that
doesnt get out of bed till way after noon. Q Open Fri, Sat
only 20:00 - 05:00 and during events. PAUEBXW
Klaps C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in
the weirdness stakes. Theres dildos for beer taps and a wall
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you wont
find beer costing more than 9z. Finding it is a challenge in
itself - its close to the passage that connects the courtyard
to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX
Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska H-3, ul. Zwycizcw
49, tel. (+48) 22 270 21 79, www.klubokawiarnia.
net. Cool caf/club across the river in Saska Kpa. Housed
in a row of 1950s shop fronts, the owners have managed
to modernise the interior while remaining sympathetic to the
history of the building. On the ground level youll find the white
tiled bar serving up a variety of drinks, cakes, light dishes
and a selection of trendy European magazines, including
Wire and Wallpaper (the design magazine for those who
dont like reading!). Downstairs the small events room is
home to exhibitions, readings, cult film screenings (shown in
their original languages) and live music; we still squirm with
embarrassment when recalling seeing a Finnish electro-pop
geezer acting like a lethargic robot and gyrating his groin just
inches away from our faces. Expect bands to have names
like Root Canal Treatmentwere not kidding! QOpen
11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. PTAUGW
Kraken Rum Bar B- 4, ul. Poznaska 12. The first
thing that hi ts you upon entering this li ttl e seafood j oint
is the great smell whi ch immediatel y makes you think
of harboursi de cafes and holi days to the seasi de wi th
your bucket and spade. The interior is reminiscent of
a fishermans shed; fish-box wood, sun bl eached dri ft-
wood tabl es and chairs and a sel ection of ol d mari time
imagery. The seafood is simpl y presented, very tasty
and well pri ced. Also, try the Kraken beer whi ch is made
especially for the bar by the brewers at Artezan - Polands
smallest brewery. The staff are a tattooed, trendy bunch,
but rather than being press-ganged and forced to set
sail for the Greenland fisheri es, we suspect theyve j ust
dropped out of uni and possi bl y taken a pedal o for a
spin on a boating pond. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. PAUGBW
Kufle i Kapsle B/C- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel.
(+48) 22 127 72 18. Hot on the heels of the ori ginal
Warsaw real al e bar Cuda na Ki j u comes thi s beer
dri nkers paradi se. The name Kufl e i Kapsl e means
Beer Mugs and Bottl ecaps and the interior is a per fect
bl end of European tradi tional bar desi gn mingling wi th
Polish features, such as the large til ed heater in the back
room. Twelve taps are on offer and the bottled beer selec-
tion has more vari ety than a Glaswegian glass recycling
bi n! An i nteresti ng sel ecti on of bar snacks are al so
availabl e; bil tong, prunes wrapped in bacon and warm
French pastry wi th savoury toppings. Keen to spread the
gospel, the owners are also responsi bl e for the Warsaw
beer trail map, j ust ask at the bar. In contrast to many
other l ocal bars, expect i t to be packed and buzzing from
around 17:00. We l ove i t! QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. AGBW
A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in
recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known
locally as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers &
Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some,
these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on commu-
nist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering
a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically
served cold) for about 8z each, with drinks typically fixed
at 4z. Familiar as the bar food of the lean communist
years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to
the Jeopardy question Foods that follow vodka and
typically includes ledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka
(pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles
and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license,
Zakski Przekski bars offer budget food and drink late
night and are a great place to meet the citys strangest
characters. We list the best in Warsaw below:
Bar Warszawa de Luxe B- 2, Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 79, tel. (+48) 510 40 08 64, www.
barwarszawa.pl. Bar Warszawas popularity has been
so explosive theyve created a satellite location, Bar
Warszawa de Luxe, to handle the late-night overflow. While
the original of this recipe at ul. Miodowa 2 - which combines
ridiculously cheap Polish food and booze with nerdily
dressed employees - only services customers until 04:00,
the Deluxe version is open 24 hours slinging 11z snacks
like herring and 5z vodka shots. Newly added live music
can be seen Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, while
DJs take over the dance floor on Fridays, Saturdays and
Sundays beginning at 01:00. Q Open 24hrs. UEG
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel.
(+48) 796 11 00 00. When the vaunted New York
Times came to Warsaw to do a story on the growing trend
of old-school zakaskas bars - watering holes with cheap
4zl vodka and beer and piles of pork jelly - they headed
straight for the experts at Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa, the current
kings of the 24 hour Soviet-era drinking dens that have
seen a resurgence lately. Q Open 24hrs. PUGB
Przekski Zakski B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 44 (en-
trance from ul. Widok), tel. (+48) 22 826 79 36, www.
gessler.pl. Although Warsaws glitterati (note the small
g) are still in a period of mourning due to the closure of
PZs former cult venue in the Hotel Europejski building, Mr.
Gessler has been quick off the mark to relocate to a new
and rather odd establishment behind the centrally located
Rotunda bank building. Cheap vodka shots, beer and PRL-
style snack dishes like Steak tartare, marinated herring
and pigs feet in aspic rule the day and now they have also
added a range of sandwich options. The slightly sad tent in
which it is based was originally set up as a temporary bar for
Euro 2012 and is as far away from the beauty of the 1950s
glam of their previous home as you can get. Nevertheless,
the original concept of everyone welcome and low prices
remains. Q Open 24hrs. AUG
Warszawska F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. (+48) 694
89 40 37. If zakaskas bars are all the rage, then Warsza-
wska is currently top of the heap for the see-and-be-seen
set. Its location at the hipster epicenter of Pl. Zbawiciela
guarantees large late night crowds; a recent Friday night
saw numbers in the hundreds pouring out of the tiny bar,
sipping cheap beers while lazing on the torn up tram
tracks on ul. Marszakowska. Q Open 24hrs. AGW
Polish Snacks & Shots
So long as you have food
in your mouth, you have solved all
questions for the time being.
Franz Kafka
Wierzbowa 9/11, Warszawa
www.momu.pl [email protected]
+48 506 100 001
fb.com/MOMU.gastrobar
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznaska 7 (entrance from ul. Wil-
cza), tel. (+48) 790 01 00 88, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little
place thats not unlike popping round a mates house - pro-
vided your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And
wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great
beers of Poland, the Czech Republic and Ukraine, including
Ciechan and Obolon: superb brews that do a lot to redress the
damage caused by the megabrand beers. Theres not much
more to this place, just a friendly welcome, cheap prices,
chilled out tracks and a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in
some board game or other. Highly recommended, even more
so if you just want a good night with select friends. QOpen
16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. PAGW
Momu Gastrobar B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance
from Pl. Teatralny), tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.
momu.pl. Its been years since adding the word Gastrobar
to the name of an eatery created such excitement, but this
is Warsaw! As well as a comprehensive range of drinks
and cocktails, Momu serves up a great mix of salads,
seafood and, the pice de rsistance, designer hotdogs!
The hotdogs are pretty small affairs but are reasonably
priced and great to accompany the drinks on offer. The
slightly austere interior is compensated for by the colour-
ful garb of Warsaws trendies. Staff are casual and quick,
so well forgive them for handing us a menu that looked as
i f it had been in a scrap with an irate Rottweiler. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. PAUEXW
OSP Saska Kpa ul. Walecznych 74 (Saska Kpa),
tel. (+48) 603 10 38 88. Sharing none of the pretence
of nearby ul. Francuska, this great caf, social club and fire
station (crazy, but true!) is by far one of the jolliest places in
Saska. OSP attracts a variety of customers; off duty firemen,
locals, arty types and a very happy little Jack Russell terrier.
Tasty, cheap home cooked food and a good range of difficult
to find beers are on offer, including Pan tu nie Sta - a Polish
brew which comes wrapped in a sheet of printed newspaper.
Regular music/film nights add to the appeal, and dont forget
to try on the collection of firemens helmets and hats after
a few beers. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Panorama Bar & Lounge B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34,
www.panoramabar.pl. Warsaws hi ghest bar - and
indeed Polands - sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott
with prices to match the top tier location. The views of
Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and theyre
no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing
glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior
consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever
lighting. Theres no better place for Sleepless In Seattle
seduction, or a corporate chinwag. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00.
PAUXW
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 828
42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Not everyones cup of tea
perhaps, but every time we come here we always think to
ourselves they get little wrong and a lot right. Serves good
food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late as the bar most
nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and a decent pint. And,
whisper it, but you can smoke here: in fact, it is business as
usual on the smoking front, as the whole place is a smoking
zone, apart from two small tables at the entrance. Thats
why its full when all around is empty. Top marks. QOpen
18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PAEXW
Simply the best food
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We invite you for our special
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ul. Pikna 28/34, Warszawa
Tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiorewinebar.pl
NEW
Hoa by Mondovino C-4, ul. Hoa 25A, tel. (+48)
515 03 70 01, www.hoza.warszawa.pl. Star Argen-
tinean chef Martn Castro Gimenez may well rule the roost
in the kitchen but this stylish steakhouse is also home to
a phenomenal range of over 150 wines from around the
planet. The owner, Polish actor Tomasz Budyta, has been
a passionate fan of the grape for over 23 years and his
connections to the industry have helped him build up the
fine cellar and vast selection of wines on offer at Hoa by
Mondovino. Fans of the grain should also check out the
back-room whisky bar with its range of over 50 single malts.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. PAXW
Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48)
22 866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the
back garden here, a cool courtyard space festooned with
paintings and plant life. Good thing the rest of it isnt bad
either as the garden is closed out of season. A simple,
chic design that doesnt go overboard, a wine list which
is exhaustive, knowledgeable service and an increasingly
trendy location all win it points. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAGBW
Wine Bar Mielyski D-1, ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel.
(+48) 22 636 87 09, www.mielzynski.pl. Some claim
this to be Warsaws best wine bar, and they might well be
onto something. Expert service guarantees to identify the
wine that suits you, and the selection is utterly exhaustive.
An absorbing venue, with a decent menu of light bites to
compliment the drinking. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. PAUGW
Winestone A-4, ul. Zota 48, tel. (+48) 22 697 37
55. The latest concept restaurant project, located within
the city centre Mercure Hotel. Winestone takes its name
from the fact that it stocks a great selection of fine wines
and also serves food on very fashionable French stone tab-
lets, otherwise known as Les Planches. The calming and
unfussy design features an unusual violet and black colour
scheme, large wooden tables and a hefty bar. Everyone can
feel like a budding Oz Clarke with the rather helpfully laid out
wine list which is split into four easy to decipher categories
- fresh and tasty, light and fruity, balanced and elegant, full
and aromatic. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAUGW
Winiarnia Restauracja Superiore F-4, ul. Pikna
28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiore-
winebar.pl. Yet another business venture which has
decided to make the move from the once-posh, but
increasingly sad-looking Miasteczko Wilanw estate
and into the centre of the city. The interior is slick rustic
with the shelves of wine bottles making up much of the
dcor.QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
Winosfera A-3, ul. Chodna 31, tel. (+48) 22 526
25 00. Already running successful wine shops in Poznan,
Bydgoszcz and Kielce, the Winosfera team now step up the
pressure with a mammoth Warsaw venture dedicated to
the grape. The large shop stocks over 500 New World and
European wines. Any of the wines on offer can be taken
into the restaurant and wine bar areas (corkage charge
25zl). Weekend wine tastings by experts and winemakers
from some of the vineyards on offer are becoming regular
and popular events. The complex also includes private
function rooms, an art gallery and a 48 seat cinema.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAUGW
Wine Bars
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel.
(+48) 22 881 83 73, www.piesczysuka.com. Pies Czy
Suka (Dog or Bitch) is a high-end design boutique that
opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The space
itself is what youd expect when design folk are in charge:
touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet the imagina-
tive drinks are they main focus, and though they dont arrive
quickly, but they do come with a free show; creating molecular
foam and juicing figs takes some elbow grease, and conver-
sations are punctuated by the loud, rhythmic thwack of ice
against the cocktail shaker. The recipes require the kind of
precision normally reserved for brain surgery, and unexpected
ingredients like dry ice and cranberry caviar can often mean
your drink requires a spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty
- try the Gin Basil Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. AGW
Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54,
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a
venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so
low youll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has
seen minimal investment, with a design that must have set
the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; decor is
limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles and sofas
with springs practically sticking out of them. But this place has
become astonishingly popular, especially with students and
other sorts who look like theyve just finished band practice.
Dont be surprised to find the party spilling outside, with gangs
of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing sneaky puffs on
Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is rife and encouraged,
and its only fair to note this place has become a bit of a
magnet for expat lads looking to tap up impressionable Polish
girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. AXW
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagielloska 22,
tel. (+48) 501 04 84 71, www.po2stronielustra.com.
This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself:
artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently mov-
ing locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime
and history at their former Zbkowska location and simply
brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of craft
beers - along with them to ul. Jagielloska. Sure, it feels a little
weird to not stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has
an actual seat attached, but were happy to exchange that
charm for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AEBXW
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic.
Set in a sterile white hall the bars major lure is the beer, namely
the best selection youll find in the city. There are about 160
to pick from, and these range from gourmet Belgian to beers
those from other continents. The heavy import duty has been
directly handed down to the customer, with some bottles sell-
ing for a wincing 25z, though youll find these prices offset by
calming lounge sounds and soothing lights that glow from
vertical columns. A smashing night, and one which doesnt end
until youre exactly that. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot
of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than its
daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle this
construction looks more like a car park than bar, but dont let
that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are fre-
quent, and frequently excellent, as are the book signings and
vernissages. The location splat in the middle of Krakowskie
Przedmiecie means theres no shortage of lookers to train
your eyes on. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAUEGBW
Theres a number of ways to survive winter in Poland,
and weve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos
to eating loads of fat and staying home. Of all the
methods none however rewards as much as heading
down the pub. Its in these noble establishments youll
find the answer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane
piwo thats hot beer to you and me. Now it might
sound rancid but give it a try. Youll get a frothing beer
served piping hot with a choice of various flavourings
cloves, cinnamon, honey, ginger and an array of fruit
juices. Grzane wino mulled wine is equally popular
at this time of year and is particularly decent when
using a dry red.
Couple of things a veteran will keep their eye out for;
firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually a give-
away that they dont know what theyre doing behind the
scenes. You most certainly dont want your drink fried.
Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass. Drinks lose their
temperature fast so its always best to have a mug,
preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly, and a gentle prod
to any simpletons, remember your drink is going to be
scorching hot when it arrives. Gulping it down in one is
going to seriously hurt. And remember, if youre trying
this at home, never let the drink hit boiling point. Thats
disaster. If youre too scared to get creative yoursel f
then youll find ready-to-heat mulled wine on sale in off
licenses - look for Grzaniec Galicyjski. During the colder
months you will find most restaurants and bars offering
some form of hot alcohol and we cant recommend
them enough.
Hot Beer
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are
a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can
be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting
one of the best bar menus in the city - were fans of the Orient
Express burger - its easy to come for dinner and stay into the
night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 -
24:00. PAUEGBW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. This
long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts
for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though
discerning the various accents becomes harder with every
margarita and Corona that goes missing. Once youre inside
theres something for everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live
music on weekends, and a decent pint of Murphys or Guin-
ness. The global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting
of outsiders, especially when they buy the tequila shots.
Added bonus: the separate smoking room will save you a
trip outside. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
PAEXW
Warszawa Powile G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel.
(+48) 22 474 40 84, www.grupawarszawa.com. Set in
a former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one
of the hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground
for those enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here are
all cheap and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks
tatty and torn its become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers
hiding their horror behind reflective specs (which explains
why the neighbours want it shut down). How to find it? Walk
down the platform on Powile Station, then hang a right down
the stairs. An extra incentive to visit: they are now serving
burgers too. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat
09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity)
H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.
oparyabsurdu.pl. This bar could have a weird-off with
fellow Praga bar Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would eas-
ily end in a draw. Both favour twinkle lights, flea market
knick-knacks and crap furniture, though Absurdu has em-
braced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart. Absurdu
is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by
local bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks.
A small menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis)
are available to line your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00.
PAUEXW
Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48)
22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two
levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna
Zna can feel as if youre wandering through an M.C. Escher
drawing. Heres a primer: the first floor features a large smok-
ing room and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the
main floor has a bar with DJ/dance floor - we saw a keytar
being played - and more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of
taxis outside should tell you this is currently one of Warsaws
favourite places, with huddles of hipsters and interpretive
dancers sharing space and spilling drinks together. Theres
even a respectable menu of pasta and pizza thats available
into the weekend wee hours (weekdays 1 a.m., Fri and Sat 3
a.m., Sun 12 a.m.) to soak up the booze, and a movie room for
weekly Wednesday night (20:00) screenings. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAUXW
Clubs
Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover
the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means youll most
likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you
might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes
up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range
from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is
often a luxury that seem to universally run out around 10 p.m.
For the specifics of whats on daily visit warsaw.inyourpocket.
com and check out our Events Calendar, which givies you a
breakdown of all the evenings club nights with one click.
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszakowska 115, tel. (+48)
608 08 95 04, www.clubcapitol.pl. Global recession you
say? Nobody told the chaps at Capitol, a jaw dropper of a
venue whose opening confirms north Warsaws status as the
official party part of the city. Filled with post-socialist bling this
venue is immense, and has seen the contents of an oligarchs
deposit box thrown into impressive interiors. A pneumatic set of
breasts should be enough to guarantee female entry, while boys
should consider adding an arrogant lope to their step and some
designer horses to their clothes. And the promoters havent
been slouches either, having so far secured the appearance
of several club circuit legends. Theres no set opening hours,
though its safe enough to assume that if its a weekend its
open. Q Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. PAEBX
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii
Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl.
A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in
Warsaw. Not because its anything particularly special, but
because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of
Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the
central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies
getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once youre
done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax
before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious
party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed
men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this
place must have been frequented by the great and not so
good of communist Poland. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu
21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEX
de lite club C-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. (+48)
797 17 03 87, www.deliteclub.com. Hot-pink newcomer
De Lite already has a crush of visitors wedging themselves
on the dance floor and around the backlit bar. A giant
screen projects images on the wall of the dance floor as
DJs spin, while the elite can retreat to a plush VIP area filled
with couches and pillows for winding down away from the
masses. And yes, thats an umbrella in your cocktail. The
quintessential club experience in Warsaw. Q Open Fri, Sat
only: 23:00 - 05:00. PAEBXW
Element B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. (+48) 22 692 42 42, www.
elementclub.pl. Recently opened at the beginning of sum-
mer this club is all about being showy: theres visual effects to
complement their sound system, three huge rooms (including
one for smokers and a VIP area), and endless comfy couches
for lounging. Expect a wide range of dance music along with
live acts and DJs at this new centrally located club. Q Open
Thu, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. PAEBXW
Foksal XVIII C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 885 16 08 85.
The star-studded summer opening was our first clue that Foksal
XVIII aims to take the Warsaw club scene by storm. The interior
mixes swank (chandeliers) with urban (exposed brick) with the
inexplicable (cardboard animal mounts!) in this large basement
space. DJs keep the dance floor - accented with a massive disco
We know that sometimes theres a match and you
just have to see it. Where to go? Most bars with a
screen will subscribe to Canal+ Sport, a channel that
not onl y has intensive coverage of the local sides,
but al so shows Engl i sh Premi ershi p games each
Saturday and Sunday. The only downside is the droll
Polish commentary rattling on in the background. I f
you demand Sky Sports then Warsaw has a number
of decent options. All of the following also relay the
American version of football.
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legends-
bar.pl. Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British
bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add
in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PABXW
SomePlace Else C- 4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Located in the Shera-
ton, SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket
industrial space - even during the Sunday brunch televi-
sions did double duty showing ski races and tennis. A
great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks
along with an extravagant selection of drinks. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGBW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F- 3, ul. Wilcza 46,
tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortilla-
factory.pl. With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a
set of screens located around the bar, beer taps on
tables, a killer Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking
room. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
PAEBXW
Sport on TV
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (Arkadia), tel.
(+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial
motif prevails in Bierhalle, with giant tailor-made brewing
vats, brickwork and pipes springing from every corner.
The beer is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy
steins by wenches squeezed into peasant bodices. Our
favourite is the pils, and it tastes even better when you
ask for a dash of caramel to be added to your brew.
Domestic sad cases rejoice, bottles, barrels even, of
beer are available for takeaway. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGBW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other
microbrewery tends to live in the shadow of the more
famous Bi erhall e, and though i t fail s to share the
lively atmosphere of its rival Browarmia is by no means
second best. Theres a decent design here, with all
the requisi te pipes, dials and tanks on display, as
well as a good menu that trounces the competition.
More importantly the beer is top standard and all, and
best imbibed on a seasonal terrace looking onto the
revamped Krakowskie Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. PAEBXW
Microbreweries
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszakowska
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing for-
est green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic
shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere.
Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back
the barmans creations while taking in nightly jazz perfor-
mances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Nu Jazz Zone C- 4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48)
22 621 89 89, www.jazzone.pl. A cavernous bar
decorated spari ngl y wi th sl i ck furni shi ngs and at-
tracti ve staf f. Good cocktails, served by proficient
bartenders, and a strong fusion menu. The occasional
jazz performances can be excellent, and the basement
bar features comfortable seating and a big screen for
sports action. Neither loud nor lively, expect the tables
to be occupied by couples with single roses in front
of them. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
PAEGBW
Pikna Bistro G- 4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48)
22 627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Pikna Bistro is
everything you dont expect of a jazz bar, with a smart
set of customers insi de an attracti ve interior that
recently enjoyed a modernising.The live performances
are consistently excellent, and better still, never loud
enough to completely sink conversation. Weve heard
its converting to a sushi establishment. Will the jazz
stay? Were not sure, but be warned that upheaval
appears imminent.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
Jazz
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, warsaw.inyourpocket.com, know about
it. Every venue on our website now has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
Brooklyn Burgers and Wings
The best wings and burgers in Warsaw. Original taste
and really big menu. Also close to many tourist attrac-
tions.
Sylo, Warsaw, September 2013
Zapiecek
Awesome place! My favourite for dumplings and soup,
with delicious food and drink its one of my favourite
spots for a good dinner.
Grizzek, Warsaw, August 2013
Foksal XVIII
Worst customer service I ever experienced. I cannot
believe it myself, was offended 2X in the same night by
barmen (both of them Marcins by the way). First time in
my life I called manager to complain, who did apologize,
but did it hurriedly without listening to what I had to say
in order to get rid of me fast. Its a pity because DJ did a
good job that night for a change.
Szymon, Warsaw, August 2013
Have Your Say
66
NIGHTLIFE
67
NIGHTLIFE
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ball - packed for a crowd that is both classier and better dressed
than your typical booty-shaking slopfest. So visitors should
take note: To mingle with the A-list youll need to bring your A
game. Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 05:00. PAEX
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design master-
piece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend
the curving stairwell and all youll see is boys with attitude,
dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping
spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the
good lookers went, youve found the answer. Tread down
wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main
arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way;
this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and thats be-
cause of the alcoves found shooting off in every direction.
Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian
drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities.
Q Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. PAEXW
Organza B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 609 88
66 44, www.kluborganza.pl. After a 10 year streak on the
Warsaw scene Organza had to close down and move, but
that short hiatus has not caused it to lose its footing. The
new black-and-orange bi-level space is regularly packed, and
apparently no one here thinks disco is dead as the regular
Wednesday disco fever dance parties attest. If hen parties
and students dont make you cringe then neither will Organza.
Q Open 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PAEXW
Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw,
and youll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensuring
everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes both. Re-
garded as Warsaws finest club this place, set inside a historic
former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with a design
that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glowing floors.
This is champagne living Warsaw-style, meaning hot sounds
from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes way, way late.
Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 06:00. PAUEXW
Room 13 Club & Lounge B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel.
(+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13.pl. Warsaw has had the
benefit of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after visit-
ing venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands out. The
interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy clouds
painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms, and giant
images of what Victorias Secret has taught us an angel looks
like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars, VIP space, a wide
array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your
HQ. QOpen 22:13 - 05:00. Closed Tue, Wed. PAGW
NEW
Sheesha Lounge B-4, ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 33, tel.
(+48) 22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Having added a
massive dose of pizazz to the formerly grubby little street behind
the city centre Novotel, Sheesha transforms from its peaceful
daylight persona into one of the most popular dance venues in
town during its regular club nights. The ground floor level turns
into a dance floor and in-house DJs Alex and Saad knock out the
mainly Arabic, oriental and R&B fat beats to the sexy crowd. Belly
dancers and darbuka players make frequent appearances to add
to the multi-cultural shenanigans and the steamy atmosphere.
Dive into the vibe, watch from the mezzanine floor or just chill in
the basement bar area. The restaurant remains open and puffing
on a hookah is highly encouraged. Strict door policy to keep the
oiks, drunks and great unwashed from spoiling the fun. QOpen
10:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. PAEXW
Simply the best food
- g-| .--:
We invite you for our special
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-.-||, ..- .--.
ul. Pikna 28/34, Warszawa
Tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59, www.superiorewinebar.pl
Centuri es of hardcore
Catholicism matched with
provincial attitudes have
conspi red to create an
atmosphere where homo-
sexuality is still regarded
as morall y i ncorrect by
much of the population.
Warsaw does however offer far more tolerance and
understanding; 2010 saw several thousand people
march in Warsaw in the first EuroPride event to be held
in Central or Eastern Europe. That said, the local govern-
ment received a petition with over 50,000 signatures
demanding the parade itself be cancelled.
In the past both the former prime minister, Jarosaw
Kaczyski, and his late twin, President Lech Kaczynski,
stirred discontent; the latter by proclaiming homosexual-
ity as unnatural and the former for stating homosexuals
should be banned from teaching posts. Harsh senti-
ments, but not nearly as malignant as the ones voiced
by LPR politician Wojciech Wierzejski, whose memorable
rants reasoned gays should be bludgeoned they are
all paedophiles and members of the mafia.
Yet inroads into bigotry are being made. In 2004 Poland
had its first gay wedding (not officially recognized),
and the following year Warsaws public transport body
became the first company to officially acknowledge
homosexual relationships by gi ving gay employees
and their partners the right to free transport. Although
Warsaw, as yet, offers no natural centre for the gay com-
munity this cant be taken as a sign of something more
sinister - even the straight scene struggles to boast any
area that can be regarded as a true nightlife hub such as
Barcelonas Las Ramblas.
While public demonstrations of affection are at best
tolerated, at worst dangerous, the city offers numerous
gay friendly venues; whether they be the trendy Midzy
Nami caf (C-4, ul. Bracka 20), the expat Tex-Mex favou-
rite the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (B-4, ul. Wilcza 46) or full
on techno hangouts like Luztro (C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
6). For gays in Poland the road ahead remains a long
one, but for a country that still listed homosexuality as
a disease up until 1991 the nation has already started
cautiously edging forward. For further info on gay li fe
in Poland click to the English-language website www.
gayguide.net.
Fantom C-4, ul. Bracka 20b, tel. (+48) 22 828 54
09, www.fantomwarsaw.com. The oldest existing gay
venue in Warsaw can be found down a dark courtyard
on Bracka occupying the basement of a pre-war palace.
Ring the buzzer on the right hand entrance and descend
the stairs to access their sauna. On entry youll be
handed a pair of nasty flip-flops and a threadbare towel.
Inside find a bar area, and a long corridor that leads to a
scummy looking jacuzzi, dark room and sauna (the sauna
is open 14:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 16:00-23:00). It might be
murky, but this is definitely the choice of sauna for many
of the capitals queers. The left hand entrance leads to
a more fully-clothed area with a popular bar, a couple of
cinema screens and a labyrinth. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00,
Fri 14:00 - 05:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00.
PADXW
Gay Warsaw
While the name sounds like that of a soap opera charac-
ter or possibly a romance novel heroine, Polands Rosa
Luxemburg was not a fictional figure though her story as
a noted revolutionary socialist is just as dramatic. Born in
the southern city of Zamo (which was then controlled
by Russia) in 1871, Luxemburg was the fifth child born to a
Polish Jewish family that eventually moved to the capital of
Warsaw. There Luxemburg attended school and got her first
taste of political activity by becoming involved in the left-wing
Proletariat party, a short-lived socialist political party that
was essentially dissolved after most of its members were
executed or imprisoned around 1886. Luxemburg fled to
Switzerland in 1889 to escape persecution for her beliefs and
enrolled in Zurich University, where she met Leo Jogiches a
fellow student and the man who would be her romantic and
political partner for the rest of her life.
Together the duo founded the Social Democratic Party of
the Kingdom of Poland and created a newspaper, Sprawa
Robotnicza (The Workers Cause) to oppose the policies
of the Polish Socialist Party. Luxemburg maintained the
position that an independent Poland would only come about
through socialist revolution, a position she held from across
the border in Germany (by 1898 Luxemburg had married
Gustav Lubeck in order to gain German citizenship and
settled in Berlin). In Germany Luxemburg was an active
participant in the Social Democratic Party of Germany (SPD)
and accurately foresaw the upcoming war, condemning
Germanys militarization and writing analyses about Euro-
pean socio-economic issues as well as speaking publicly
to workers about solidarity in the event of war.
Despite Luxemburgs efforts to unite workers into a strike
against war, when the Balkans erupted in 1914 there was
no such strike, and the SPD itself voted to support financing
the war and refraining from strikes throughout its duration.
Not one to take things lying down, Luxemburg promptly
organised anti-war demonstrations and earned herself
a year in prison for inciting to disobedience against the
authorities law and order. Shortly thereafter Luxemburg
and likeminded friends, including Karl Liebknecht, founded
the Spartacus League which generated anti-war leaflets
and continued to encourage workers to strike against the
war. Those efforts landed Luxemburg back in prison once
again, this time for a 2.5 year stretch beginning in 1916.
Upon her release in November 1918 Luxemburg and
Liebknecht immediately regrouped the Spartacus League
and created the Red Flag newspaper to continue press-
ing their ideas which now included amnesty for political
prisoners and an end to capital punishment. The following
month saw the duo found the Communist Party of Ger-
many amidst the countrys post-war revolution, though
the revolutions second wave would prove deadly for both
Luxemburg and Liebknecht. While Luxemburg herself op-
posed the revolutions violent grab at power, the Red Flag
backed the rebels and both Luxemburg and Liebknecht
were seized, questioned and summarily executed as a
result. Luxemburgs corpse was thrown into the Landwehr
Canal, where it went undiscovered for four months.
Despite her untimely death Luxemburg left a vast legacy
of ideas and writings, with the term Luxemburgism even
used to describe a specific revolutionary theory within
Marxism that is based on her work. And while there are
currently no monuments or memorials to the revolution-
ary in Poland, Berlin sports a U-Bahn station named in
her honour (Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz) and a memorial in
the citys Tiergarten marking the spot where her body
was tossed in the canal.
Rosa Luxemburg
69
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
68
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Coyote Bar & Night Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8,
tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotenightclub.pl. On
the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is
an adult entertainment establishment of the girls in their
underwear which leaves little to the imagination will dance
for you variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as out-
rageously priced as in other similar places and we have to
say that the girls we bumped into when we popped in for a
quick one were sirens. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 -
03:00. PAUGW
Kokomo B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from
ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.
kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip bars in
Warsaw, though dont let that stop you taking advantage
of the Kokomo limo service. From there on in its your eyes
that will be doing all the work as they pinball around their
sockets focusing on the troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two rooms
to choose from, as well as a well-stocked drink bar serving
all the concoctions necessary to complete your preview of
heaven. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PAG
Libido Gentlemans Club B-3, ul. Kredytowa 9, tel.
(+48) 22 828 23 07, www.libidoklub.pl. Newcomer Libido
was designed with the customer in mind: the large onyx bar
doubles as a runway for strippers, who sashay past gaping
customers (watch your drinks!) on their way to one of three
mid-bar poles. Head to the basement if you prefer your danc-
es more intimate, where closed-off booths let the dancers
get up close and personal for 50zl. Everything from the coat
check to the bathrooms is above board, a nice change for
those who like their entertainment without the usual seedy
undertones. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PAX
New Orleans Gentlemens Club B-3, ul. Zgoda
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl.
From Sunday to Wednesday youll find the girls kitted out in
evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the
girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent
natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of the
aforementioned evening dress is also an available option.
At weekends youll find New Orleans reverting to the more
standard formula, with girls tottering around in next to noth-
ing, and offering the usual hip-grinding action. Now added,
a night restaurant with an erotic menu featuring oysters,
lobster and Argie steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Note that from Oct. 15 on Fridays and
Saturdays the bar opens at 16:00, while the club doesnt
open until 21:00. PAXW
Sofia F-4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.
klubsofia.pl. A legend in nineties and noughties Warsaw,
there was a time no self-respecting male could leave Warsaw
without having first visited Sofia. Those days may have gone
and so it seemed had Sofia. But it appears not with the open-
ing of this place, three years after the original closed, just
down from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious
club area and a host of minimally dressed women. In the wild
days of nineties Warsaw this was known in local parlance as
The Bulgarian Embassy. Itll be interesting to see if it lives
up to the reputation it built then. Q Open 20:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAUX
What's going on in Poland?
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Those who visited Warsaw in the nineties and around
the turn of the century may have lingering memories of a
seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels
in operation the city established a reputation as a des-
tination for hairy palmed perverts. Then along came the
late Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became a
one man anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire
to restore Warsaws lost innocence. While he never fully
succeeded in cleansing Warsaw of the brothels and the
flyers, Kaczynskis crusade had a striking impact.
One of the results of this campaign is that Warsaw now
offers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the
whole, fairly presentable Gentlemens Clubs. Brothels
still exist but not in the huge numbers that they once
did. Although there is no specific red light district youll
find a small concentration of brothels around al. Jerozo-
limskie, ul. Wilcza and ul. Nowogrodzka. Theyre simple
enough to find, just look for the flyers pinned to car
windscreens or clogging up the gutters. Dont expect
English to be spoken, and dont reckon on being greeted
by the sirens pictured on the aforementioned flyers.
Now, in the old days wed use this space to fire some
recommendations your way. Legal factors now make
that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise
prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www.
internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards
are alive with the latest despatches from the frontline, as
well as pics and maps from the more committed post-
ers. For independent girls check websites such as www.
odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where youll find a choice
of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty Polish girls
promising a lively time. Your third choice is to simply put
your faith in a taxi driver. More often than not this will in-
volve being driven to the suburbs and to whichever brothel
is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices in these high end
establishments will tend to start at 200zl, though dont
be tricked into buying champers for the lady unless youre
sure you can afford it. Similarly, greenhorns should watch
their wallet in strip clubs - bills easily spiral, even more so
when the drinks start being poured.
Scumbag, fly-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and dont think for one jiffy youre
beyond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie
of your choice is in on the game because she enjoys roll-
ing around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling
record where human trafficking is concerned, and its
safe to assume a fair few ladies staffing such venues
have been coerced into their career. Finally, the venues
listed here are generally central and established but
please be warned that in recent months weve had a
report of 8,000zl being spent willingly in one club listed
here and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwill-
ingly in one which is not listed here. In the second case
half of the money was retrieved from the bank because
of payment irregularities but be on your guard.
Vice Advice
ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, Warsaw
tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56
www.coyotenightclub.pl
WELCOME TO THE EXCLUSIVE
COYOTE NIGHT CLUB
You can fnd everything you want, and what you never dreamed of...
Deepest dreams stand in front of you at your fngertips.
71
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
70
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
HISTORY HISTORY
Earl y forti fi ed settl ements are
believed to have existed in what is
now the district of Brodo as far
back as the 9
th
century, and while
historians struggle to conclusively
agree as to exactly when Warsaw
was founded most appear to accept
that the first recorded mention of
the city can be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for the
city in 1413, when the ruling Dukes
deci ded to shi ft the capi tal of
Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next century it
gathered importance as a trading point, and was incorporated
into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town was expanding
in both status and stature, though nothing was to prepare it
for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin
amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the decision
was taken to centralize parliament and move it from Krakw
to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt
III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north
as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this newly-formed
commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was a di fferent
creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area, secured by
its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another 204 homes
stood just outside this protective boundary. In total just 14,000
people lived in the newborn capital.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw was
ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that was bad
you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great Northern War
kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance comprising of Russia,
Poland and Denmark launched the opening attack. The Swedes
werent having any of it, and by 1702 their counter-attack had
landed them at the gates of Warsaw. Over the next few years
Warsaw was passed back and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining
heavy economic and physical damage in the process. The war,
a right epic scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and
Warsaw was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Polands first library seven years later. This age
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying
neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her finest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3
rd
was
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back
launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Tadeusz
Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at Racawicka,
but eventually superior numbers told and the rebellion ended in
surrender. The following year Russia, Prussia and Austria joined
together to carve what remained of Poland between them.
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-
independent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the
following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these
dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced
with German uni forms. Only when Germany signed the
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jsef
Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,
reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national
hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a failed coup
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which
not just guaranteed Polands short-term future, but Europes.
The twenti es and thirti es saw Warsaw fl ourish i nto a
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30
th
.
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw Pact, a
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed
in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city the
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan exploded
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street
demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest
far, far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Polands
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek had
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do not be
afraid, spoke the pontiff to the masses, change the image
of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a clear
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21
st
century. The year
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the
spur of the moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed
those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public
face of Solidarno (Solidarity), a trade union that would
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for further
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the first president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of
this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award it
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.
Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Krakw to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw
two years later and installing Stanisaw Leszczyski as
a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, in-
advertently prompting the second partition of Poland
two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later following
Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls once more
under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are
immediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The people of Warsaw launch the Warsaw
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all on board
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katy.
2012: Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012
football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though
the Polish team didnt make it out of the group stage).
Warsaws Historical Timeline
72 73
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ESSENTIAL WARSAW
Sightseeing and Warsaw
dont usually go together,
and the blame for that falls
on her citizens. While some
cities may have been happy
to wait out Nazi occupa-
tion, the Warsaw locals
were having none of that.
The ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most glo-
rious and tragic episode in
the citys history. Doomed
from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and
his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to
be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about
their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood
stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting
western Warsaw from the map. Anything deemed of cultural
importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on
fire. By the time liberation arrived, over 90% of the city lay in
total ruin. I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere
have I been faced with such destruction, commented a visibly
moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still
stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the
Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old
Town, and its here that most tourists will choose to start
their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, in-
cluding the striking St Johns Cathedral (B-2, ul. wietojaska
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred-
ible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although youll find plenty of photographic opportunities in
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for
the viewing platform at the top of St Annes Church (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieie), and dont leave the area without
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.
There is far more to Warsaw than i ts ol d town however,
and one museum that demands to be vi si ted i s the
Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). I ts
here, inside Polands best museum, that youll learn about
the ci tys doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.
Packed wi th i nteracti ve di spl ays, photographs, vi deo
footage and miscellaneous exhibi ts this is guaranteed to
l eave a deep mark on all visi tors, and will go a l ong way
in explaining why Warsaw is far from the archi tectural
pearl i t once was.
Al though the Nazis flat-
tened the Jewish Ghetto
af ter a heroi c upri si ng
i n 1943 there are sti l l
traces of Warsaws Jewish
past, including a remain-
ing piece of the Ghetto
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),
a memori al where the
loading ramp to Treblinka
once stood ( E-1, Um-
schl agpl atz) as wel l as
one of the largest Jewish
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most
recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been
unveiled, its course interspersed with 21 dual-language
plaques at sights of specific interest.
The citys defining landmark however has to be the fearsome
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking
like something youd see in Ghostbusters the building tow-
ers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest
and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as
a gift from the Soviet people, it was completed in 1955,
and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning
glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While its
the most obvious, its not the only example of the Socialist
Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the
everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji,
to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ
(ul. Nowy Swiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaws
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular
azienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanw
Palace - dubbed The Polish Versailles - (ul. Stanisawa
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16). Joanna Kortas
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl
Churches
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church
and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during cen-
turies of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church
helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an
identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland,
the church still plays an important role in many peoples
lives and churches reflect the importance of religion in the
history of the Polish nation.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.
swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first
visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church
in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind
a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo
Marconi. Although this serves as the churchs key draw theres
several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this
astonishing Baroque creation. The churchs history originally
dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood
on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s,
the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone being
ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski.
Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed
in 1696 though over time would see numerous additions to its
shape. The most notable of these would come in the following
century when Jzef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the
square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively
refurbish the faade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate
decorative touches to the interior. Throughout history the church
has played its role in Warsaws glories and calamities. It was
here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights
of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Rus-
Adventure Warsaw ul. Miska 25 (Praga Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.
Tours of Warsaw including the popular off the beaten
path tour which delves into Socialism, communism and of
course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. You
can even get inside the Palace of Culture and Science for
a look around. Group, private and walking tours also avail-
able from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides, who
will even take you out your stag party or host a pub crawl.
Warsaw City-Tour, tel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.
city-tour.com.pl. Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow
double-decker bus. The tours start from the bus stop
on ul. Krlewska and run at 09:50, 11:50 and 13:50 in
October and 09:50 and 11:50 in November.The route
takes about 1.5 hours and covers all the major sites
in the city including Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII,
Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park. Q Single journey
ticket 40/34z. One day ticket 60/54 z. Two day ticket
80/72z. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 children) 205zl/
day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 adults and 3
children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl single journey).
One and two day tickets offer hop on/hop off option.
Warsaw Dream, tel. (+48) 694 14 78 83, www.
warsaw-tourguide.pl. Armed with a degree in history,
tour guide Anna Kraus has put together a number of well-
researched, tailor-made tours of Warsaw, including Pre-war
Warsaw, Famous Varsovians and Battles and Uprisings. For
the colder months tours via car are available. The half and
full day tours are in English, French or Hebrew and prices
start from 350zl for the half day experience (up to 4 hours).
Tours
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74
SIGHTSEEING
75
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
sian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this
bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of
that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the
church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is
today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in
Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points of
note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning au-
thor Wadysaw Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish
icons including poet Juliusz Sowacki and WWII hero Wadysaw
Sikorski. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Jesui t Church (Koci Jezui tw) B- 2, ul .
witojaska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.
laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Wazas
confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church
was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the citys
Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and
colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands
of the Swedes in the latter hal f of the 17th century, who
looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a
storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy
Mother of Grace Church after the citys patron saint, the
church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only
to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between
1948 and 1957, the church has a few remaining original
interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century
picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, not open to
visitors, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand
Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the
Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Wadysaw
IV. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
Military Cathedral (Katedra Polowa Wojska
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Duga 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687
77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Comprised of both the St.
Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between
1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary Military
Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady Queen of
the Polish Crown, is the capitals main garrison church. Hav-
ing spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage
and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the church was
reconstructed based on original 17th-century drawings after
independence in 1918 and became the seat of the field
bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction
during WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix
of religious and military artefacts, including a number of large
oil paintings depicting the most well known of Polands battles
and uprisings. Q No visiting during mass please. Open by
prior arrangement and for groups only. Alternatively view the
interior through the bars or get in before the mass at 18:00.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89
91, www.swanna.waw.pl. St Annes survived the war
with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what
the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a
team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church
threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thoughtless
construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several
landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the floor of
the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless
work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations.
Intriguingly, this wasnt the first time St Annes had survived
vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped
destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only
to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of
an arson attack. The classicist faade dates from 1788 and
is the design of the royal architect Piotr Aigner. The interior
holds even more classicist and rococo details. The viewing
tower is one of the best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step
climb. One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden
cross you will see there. These two planks of wood became
the focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country
in the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see
our piece on the presidential cross. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00,
16:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. No visiting during mass.
St. Bennos Church (Koci w. Benona) B-1, ul.
Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.redemp-
torysci.eu. Bennos has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was
a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria
to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support
Germans living outside their home country. Ironically, in 1944,
the chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know-who. Rebuilt
by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting interior dating
from 1977. Q Open during mass and by prior arrangement.
St. Casimirs Church (Koci Benedyktynek
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl.
Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to
commemorate her husbands victory over the Turkish army at
the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed
by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692. In 1944 it
served as a Polish field hospital, and received a direct hit from
a German bomb, killing more than 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns
and soldiers who were inside. Today it has been fully restored
and has a charred wooden cross as tribute to those who died.
Please note that the church specially requests solemnity and
quiet while visiting. Q Open by prior arrangement.
St. Francis Seraph Church (Koci stygmatw
w. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroczym-
ska 1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.fran-
ciszkanie.pl. Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece
holds the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for your-
self by visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious
relics found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict
XIV in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history
books as holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the
flight of the Nazis. Currently the left nave is obscured due
to renovations, but the rest of the church is open. Q Open
06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. John the Baptist Cathedral (Bazylika Archikat-
edralna w. Jana Chrzciciela) B-2, ul. wietojaska 8,
tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Originally
built in the 14th century, St. Johns is steeped in history. The last
king of Poland, Stanisaw August Poniatowski, was crowned and
eventually buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Consti-
tution of May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies
of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Polands
first president) and various Mazovian knights, but its currently
off-limits due to renovations. Other interesting details to look
for include the covered walkway that links the Cathedral with
the Royal Castle. It was added in 1620 as a security measure
following a failed assassination attempt on King Sigismund III.
As with most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting
during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left
in a heap of ruins before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style.
On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a
Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the German army. A
17th century bell made by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made
the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column) can
now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself
never rang at the cathedral, but it has developed its own legend:
touch the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your
wish will come true. Q Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 15:00 - 17:30.
No visiting during mass please.
Poland has long embraced the fact that large scale art-
work and design motifs can be a fascinating and creative
option for advertising or, more recently, as an outlet for
the artistic visions of local and international street and
mural artists. During the communist era huge advertise-
ments would be painted onto the gable ends of buildings
and factories. With the current fashion for all things retro
and the undeniable coolness of Polish design from the
1960s - 80s the remaining wall paintings are once again
being seen as something to cherish. A fine example,
advertising the Toto lottery, can be seen on a vast wall
along ul. Widok (B-4) in the city centre; its current shabby
state only adds to its sense of history and charm. One of
our favourites adorns the end wall of a tenement block
along ul. Wolska (D-2), a crazy typographical mishmash
of overlayed texts headed by the PRL slogan of Mleko =
Zdrowie (Milk = Health). This building can be spotted as
you tootle along ul. Towarowa on the tram in the direction
of the must-see Warsaw Uprising Museum.
Launched in 2010, the Bliej Konsumenta (Closer to the
Customer) organisation aims to document and protect
the small number of original communist era advertising
murals which are still with us. Their map, highlighting
worthy walls, is available as a free download from the
Modern Art Museum website (www.artmuseum.pl).
Today, street art around the city is going through a tidal wave
of popularity and notoriety. This summers fifth edition of the
Street Art Doping Festival invited three of Europes top
street artists, Dome (Germany), Sam3 (Spain) and Phlegm
(UK), to leave their large scale marks around town. Their mu-
rals can be seen at ul. Racawicka 17 (F-6), ul. Rakowiecka
2c (F/G-5) and ul. Miska 12 (in Praga Poudnie) respectively.
Home-grown work can also be seen all around the city,
with the more down at heel districts of Praga (G/H-1) and
Wola being particularly well represented. Keep your eyes
open for the projects of sweetly subversive local heroine
NeSpoon; her recent series of stencil work based on the
motifs of traditional Polish lace designs continue to pop up
in the unlikeliest of places.
To help you find some of the city-centre highlights of
Warsaws growing street art scene, weve marked known
murals with a icon on the city maps in the back of this
guide. Check it out!
Warsaw Street Murals
If youre a single young lady in Poland on the night of
November 29, you have a unique, perhaps harrowing,
opportunity before you; or a great excuse to flee the
country. The Eve of St. Andrews Day (Andrzejki) has
been assciated with fortune-telling in Poland for centuries.
The first written mention of the tradition goes all the way
back to 1557, and while the seriousness of the proceed-
ings have certainly lightened, the basic elements of this
ancient custom remain unchanged from the Middle Ages.
As St. Andrews Day (November 30) marks the beginning
of Advent, in those by gone days it was believed that the
spirits of the ancestors were at their most accessible
when they descended back to earth during this time. With
conditions thus in place for a bit of crystal ball gazing, and
with the long, cold and lonely Polish winter ahead, coupling
was naturally the one thing on every girls mind. Would
she be married in the coming year? And what, pray tell,
would her prince look like? Following the protocols of the
day, a widow, unmarried spinster, or divorcee was then
required to light the thirteen candles that would call forth
the spirits into the room
In those days divinations dealt specifically with marriage,
were taken very seriously and were done in private. As
the tradition evolved, young girls participated in Andrzejki
in groups until eventually boys were let in on the fun and
it became the kind of light-hearted social game playing
that it is today. Of the many games that were played on
Andrzejki in the past, one that remains popular today
involves a group of young girls taking off one of their
shoes and lining them up one after another in a single
file. The girl whose shoe is last in line then takes hers to
the front, and so on, meandering through the house until
reaching the front door; the girl whose shoe is the first
to cross the threshold will be the first to marry (omg!).
The most common Andrzejki tradition carried on to day
use shot wax as a conduit into the spirit world. The wax
must be melted and then poured through the eye of a
skeleton key into a bowl of cool water. Once colled, the
resultant form is then held in front of a light and the
shadow cast reveals the appearance of your future
partner, or something about their character. While for
todays youth this glimpse into the future might only be as
far-sighted as a few hours, centuries ago it was studied
very closely. Today Andrzejki is a fun, carefree celebra-
tion of being young and single more than anything. And
that means drinking and dancing. Always a big night out
for studentsperhaps determined to forget whatever
grotesque revelation theyve just received or change their
fatemany clubs will be throwing an Andrzejki party. Get
in the mix and see what the future holds.
Andrzejki
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Reeling from near total annihilation the post-war years
saw Warsaw emerge as Europes biggest brickyard
as it struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes. Initially
the buzzword for architects in the region was Social-
ist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines
from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953
changed all that and architects looked to the west for
inspiration, a disastrous move that saw all manner of
brutalist monstrosities rise from the ruins. The competi-
tion in Warsaw is fierce, but probably nastiest of the lot
is the development dubbed the Eastern Wall (ciana
Wschodnia), a collection of buildings and tower block run-
ning from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to ul. witokrzyska
(B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiski - the guy who also
designed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul. Pikna -
won the competition to rebuild the area and set about
remodelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous glee
of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962
and was completed seven years later, the result being
four department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a
blockish office building behind it, a cinema, and even
a nightclub. Towering over it all were three residential
blocks situated on witokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda
(87 metres) and Chmielna (81 metres). Originally hailed
a work of genius the Eastern Wall soon became a bit of
a rusty elephant, crippled and blackened with age and
neglect. The collapse of communism breathed new life
into the complex - Polands first McDonalds was opened
at the witokrzyska end of the complex, while the office
block behind the Rotunda temporarily held the title for
having the largest billboard in the world. More recently
steps have been taken to polish up the area with shining
glass frontages added to the department stores, and
granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular
lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie
end. But snoop behind the area around McDs and youll
find a glorious blast to the past, with smashed pave-
ments, useless bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of
cafes selling ersatz coffee to hunched old men smoking
cigarettes by the fistful.
The Eastern Wall Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5.
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland,
Mickiewicz stands out as Polands greatest literary figure - as
well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppres-
sion. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by
the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in
1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at
the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been
covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and al-
leged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot
source of argument. Some say Nowogrdek (Lithuania), others
say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of freedom, he died during
a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish
legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in
Paris, Mickiewiczs body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Krakw.
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beauti fully
written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century.
His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and
traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on
the monument.
Charles de Gaulle Monu-
ment (Pomnik Charlesa
de Gaullea) C-4, Rondo de
Gaullea. Charles de Gaulle is
the subject of one of Warsaws
newer monuments. Stri di ng
away from what was once the
Commie party HQ, the monument
is a gift from the French govern-
ment and can be found on (C-4)
Rondo de Gaullea. A resident of
Warsaw in the 1920s, de Gaulle
is a bit of a hero in these parts
for the role he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With
Europe in turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red
Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving
the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy march
to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army
just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Pisudski launched a deft
action to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them.
The battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the
Poles claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson
went on to describe as the seventh most important battle
in history. The Bolshevik forces were decimated, and Europe
saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and was awarded the
highest military honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.
Cr o s s - mo n u me n t Pl .
Pisudskiego. Nine metres high
and made of white granite June
6, 2009 saw the unveiling of gi-
ant cross on pl. Pisudskiego. It
was here that Pope John Paul II
returned to Warsaw for the first
time after being made pope, and
it was also on this spot a candlelit
vigil was held when news first
broke of his death. The inscrip-
tion is taken from his sermon and
reads: Let your spirit come down and renew the face of earth,
this earth. Unveiled by Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz
Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monu-
ment was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciski
and Natalia Wilczak.
Ignacy Paderewski G- 4, Park Ujazdowski. Born in
Kurywka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remembered as a
politican, patriot and musician. Having entered the Warsaw
Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor
after graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they
married, spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887
he made his public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious
and his growing popularity saw him storm both Europe and the
States, not just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well.
He was based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time
he became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman
for the Polish National Committee. With the end of the war he
sought a return to his homeland where, having played a key role
in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw Pozna merged into
the newly reformed Polish state), he was elected Polands third
ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Polands part in
the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just
around the corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and
in the face of growing public discontent he resigned from office
in December 1919. A short stint as Polands representative in
the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume his
musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop
haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known for
his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced
to a polo player with the words: You are both leaders in your
spheres, though the spheres are very different. Not one to miss
a beat Paderewski deadpanned Not so very different, you are a
dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who plays solo.
During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London based
exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country
of his birth still under occupation.
Jzef Pi sudski Monu-
ment (Pomni k Jzef a
Pi sudski ego) F- 2, Pl .
Pisudskiego. Casting a steely
gaze over the square named in
his honour is a gloomy looking
Field Marshal Pisudski, a man
many Pol es hol d responsibl e
for winning the country its inde-
pendence in 1918. Regarded
as a political and military hero
this man did more than most to
free Poland from the shackles of
Russian control; his early years saw him imprisoned in Siberia
after being wrongfully convicted of plotting to assassinate
the Tsar, though his finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920
when he beat off the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of War-
saw, inadvertently saving a battered post-war Europe from
being flooded by the rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this
particular monument is the work of Tadeusz odziany, and
Pisudski fans can view another such monument to the man
on ul. Belwederska.
King Sigismunds Col -
umn (Kolumna Krla Zyg-
munta) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy.
Built in honour of the man who
made Warsaw the capi tal of
Poland, the column was erect-
ed back in 1664 and stands
twenty two metres high. During
the war the column collapsed
under bombardment and the
original now lies close to the
Royal Castle (and is considered
lucky to touch). The figure of
Sigismund survived and the new column was proudly re-
erected in 1949.
Perched in the waters of the Wisa between the Ponia-
towski and azienkowski bridges (H-3) stands one of the
more unusual Warsaw constructions. Resembling an
object that wouldnt look out of place in a 1960s sci-fi
TV series, Gruba Kaka (Fat Katie) is a familiar sight to
most Varsovians but dont expect a clear answer if you
ask the average local what it actually is or what purpose it
serves. Thankfully, we can now reveal to our readers the
truth about the most obese thing on the river!
Built in 1964, with a full renovation and upgrade taking
place in 2004, the rotund building stands within the
main current of the river and supplies water to the Praga
pumping station as well as supplementing the supply to
the city centre. The system itself is a rather interesting
one which involves raising water from between 4-8
metres below the riverbed via a system of 15 drainage
pipes. Every day 90-120,000 cubic metres of water flow
through the installation to the citys pumping stations.
The idea was conceived by the engineer Wodzimierz
Skoraczewski in 1959 and was considered so innovative
that throughout the world experts still refer to it as the
Warsaw intake method. The pipes which syphon the wa-
ter to the pumping stations are housed in an underwater
tunnel which also serves as the main route to work for
the buildings employees. The citizens of Warsaw were
asked to suggested names for the installation and thus
it became Gruba Kaka!
Monitoring the purity levels of the water is one of the
most important jobs to be carried out on the installation
and in order to supervise this the authorities employ a
team of specialised employees - seven highly sensitive
freshwater clams, which are connected to a state of the
art computerised system. If at any point three or more
clams close simultaneously it means that pollution levels
of the river have gone beyond acceptable levels. The
clams are replaced every three months, not because
the water board doesnt want to give them a proper job
contract, but because they acclimatise to the conditions
and become less sensitive over time.
This year saw the premiere of a short 3D film, simply
entitled Gruba Kaka, by the young director Julia Peka.
The film documents the history of the building and looks
at the crucial role played by the heroic clams in saving the
city from ecological catastrophe! Also keep an eye out for
Gruba Kakas svelte young boyfriend, the dredger Chudy
Wojtek (Skinny Wojtek), who circles the area keeping the
riverbed in check.
Gruba Kaka
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Ni col aus Coper ni cus
Monument (Pomni k
Mikoaja Kopernika) C-3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie.
The founder of modern as-
tronomy. A sheltered academic,
he made his observations a
century before the invention
of the telescope and without
help or guidance. His book De
Revolutionibus (1543) posited
that the earth rotated on its axis
once a day, travelled around the
sun once a year, and that mans
place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious
today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt
at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolu-
tionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there
was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological
view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is
this mans legacy.
The statue itself was built in 1830 and has seen its fair share
of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze plaque
insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German. In
1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards
and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the
statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding
monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the
years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish
folklore as a result of his bravery. The plaque at the centre of the
storm is currently held in Warsaws History Museum.
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just
before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town
visitors cant fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as
in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with
sword raised aloft this noble structure is actually officially
named Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945,
and remembers the thousands of locals who fought against
- and died under - Nazi rule. The statue made its debut in
1964, originally standing on pl. Teatralny. This was before
there was any official memorial to the Warsaw Uprising,
and as such Nike became the favoured assembly point for
Polish veterans, as well as student agitators in later years.
In 1999 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved facelift and
the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to her current
spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the cars and
buses that gasp to-and-fro.
Syrena. The mermai d i s the
symbol of Warsaw, and as such
youll find her likeness on every-
thing from buses to beer cans.
The legend dates to the time of
Prince Kazimierz, who allegedly got
lost while on a hunting expedition
in the area that is now Warsaw.
Behol d, a mermai d transpi red
from the marshland, and guided
the hapless prince to safety by fir-
ing burning arrows. Firmly established as an icon of Warsaw
youll find three mermaid statues in Warsaw, speci fically
on (C-1), Old Town Square, (D-2), witokrzyski Bridge and
on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The original mermaid - or syrena in
local parlance - stands in the Historical Museum, and was
crafted from bronze by the expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa.
Modelling for her was actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was
mortally injured on the first day of the Uprising while working
as a field nurse.
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier (Grb Niezna-
nego onierza) B-3, Pl.
Pisudskiego. The only sur-
viving part of the destroyed
Saxon Palace. The palace was
constructed during the 17th
century though the tomb was
not added to the complex until
1925. Eerily, the tomb was the
only part of the structure to
survi ve being dynami ted by
the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have
been fittingly added.
To Those Deported and Murdered in the
East (Pomnik Polegym i Pomordowanym na
Wschodzie) E-1, Intersection of Bonifraterska, An-
dersa and Muranowska. Dating from 1995, and designed
by Maksymilian Biskupski, this monument remembers the
victims of Soviet aggression and all those deported to the
wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.
There are still instances of poor or no English language ex-
planations but these are becoming less common. Without
doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising
Museum which charts the defining period in the history of
modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the
citys most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the
Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaws best
example of a modern museum experience. Most museums
listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of
which can be found in our culture and events section.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muze-
um Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number
of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with
Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with
other leading Polish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be
sure to check out the three other related sites that are part
of the citys Museum of Literature and celebrate historic
authors: the Wadysaw Broniewski Museum of Literature
at ul. J. Dbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Strug Museum
of Literature at Al. Niepodlegoci 210/10a (F-4) and the
Maria Dbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31
(F-4). Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month.
Admission 6/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibit only.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
B-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.
ethnomuseum.pl. Tragically overlooked by far too many
visitors to Warsaw (who cant see past World War II and
communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and
highlights all thats best about Polands cultural heritage.
There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions,
art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what
is a superb building. There are also exhibitions of African
and Australasian (the latter closed until the end of the year)
ethnographic art, and the museum is one of the citys most
active, putting on all sorts of temporary exhibitions and
organising hands-on events and workshops. Directors of
Tadeusz Kociuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za
elazn Bram. History produces few men like Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1746-1817). Kociuszkos highest ideal was
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all
those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and
is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the
land. In another country - America - he succeeded, and yet
has been almost completely forgotten. A monument to the
man was unveiled in November 2010 in the presence of
the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monu-
ment is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor
Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish
nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910
the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever
the country regained its independence.
The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris dur-
ing which time Poland was partitioned for the first time in
1772. Kociuszko found himself attracted to the American
fight for independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30.
Upon arrival he read the Declaration of Independence and
found himself so inspired and in concert with its ideology
that he determined to meet the man who wrote it, Thomas
Jefferson. The two men later began a lifelong friendship
which became so binding that Kociuszko made Jefferson
the executor of his will. Jefferson was to call Kociuszko
the purest son of liberty among you all that I have ever
known, and of that liberty which is to go to all, not to the
few or the rich alone.
I t was as a col onel i n the engi neeri ng corps that
Kociuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice
of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British that
was to become the decisive turning point of the northern
campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. The
victory at Saratoga won the northern campaign and the
alliance of the French as Louis XVI officially recognised
America as an independent country. Kociuszko was then
charged with fortifying West Point, New York, where he
built an impenetrable fortress that would later become
Americas premier military academy. Rewarded with
citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near
Columbus, Ohio, at the end of hostilities, Kociuszko found
himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive
neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty.
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in
Poland, Kociuszko once again returned to the military.
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second
in the world after America), which enacted widespread
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kociuszko again distinguished himsel f in battle and
became regarded as Polands leading military strategist
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,
1793) leaving Kociuszko to resolve that the Poles were
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain
their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kociuszko Up-
rising. Kociuszko, using his experience of the American
war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army
to victory over the Russian army at Racawice. The
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read
more about the man in our feature online.
Kociuszko Monument
The wonder full y named
Stanisaw II August Pon-
i atowski ( bor n Count
Stanisaw Antoni Poni -
atowski ) was the l ast
Ki ng and Grand Duke
of t he Pol i sh- Li t hua-
ni an Commonweal t h
(1764-95). Hi s of fi ci al
ti tl e was, memorabl y,
Stanisaw August, by
the grace of God and
the will of the people
King of Poland, Grand
Duke of Lithuania and
Duke of Rutheni a,
Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia,
Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia
and Chernihiv.
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732,
Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the
nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambas-
sador of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in
St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski
quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian
Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it
was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected
king, at the age of 32.
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Pol-
ish nobility, on first appearances Poniatowskis three
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of
his reign on Russian patronage.
Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europes first and
the worlds second (the United States had enacted the
first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the
power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality
amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen,
townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was
about to crumble, and the constitution came far too
late to save it.
Appall ed, the Polish nobili ty, under the flag of the
Targowi ca Federation and allied wi th Russian nobl es
keen to prevent similar i deas of equali ty infil trating
into Russia, launched a full scal e war (known, some-
what incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2)
on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (whi ch had until
then been a keen all y), Poniatowski was defeated in
1792 and the consti tution expunged from the statue
book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and
Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795
when the final parti tion of the Commonweal th forced
hi m to abdi cate. He fl ed to St. Petersburg, where
he li ved at the grace of Catheri ne until he di ed i n
1798. He was first buri ed at the Catholi c Church of
St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being
transferred to a church at Woczyn in 1938. In 1995,
in belated recogni tion of his rol e in creating the 1791
consti tution, he was formall y reburi ed at St. Johns
Cathedral in Warsaw.
Stanislaw Poniatowski
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Warsaws other museums might want to come and take
notes. Just brilliant, and unquestionably essential. A major
renovation was recently completed and two permanent
exhibits of interest can be explored: Satan in Love and
Ordinary Extraordinary. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6z. Sat free.
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decora-
tive Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeby i Sztuki
Zdobniczej) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel.
(+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The
east wing of the Royal Castles main floor is now home to
a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had
formerly been spread throughout the property, including
two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and
The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of
a major donation of 37 works of art given by Countess
Karolina Lanckoroska, a Polish resistance fighter and
concentration camp survivor who, upon Polands return to
independence in 1989, bequeathed her familys art col-
lection to the nation. The Castle has done an impressive
job of staging the artworks, with muted walls and focused
lighting keeping all the attention on the various portraits
of 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette and
still li fe paintings of flower-filled bounties. Theres also a
room devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from
the era. The Castles free admission on Sundays have
seen the new gallery overrun with visitors, so serious art
lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander at a less
harried pace. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, but open on November 11. Last entrance 1
hour before closing. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 20/15z, family ticket 10z per person. Sun free.
Historical Museum of Warsaw (Muzeum History-
czne Miasta Warszawy) B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta
28-42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl. One of
our favourite museums, The Historical Museum of Warsaw
has been offline for several issues now but is easing into a
return after months of renovations, which will continue to take
place over the next several years. What can you see so far?
Not very much as the main floor is closed for overhaul. One
aspect not to be missed, however, is the film Warsaw Will
Remember in the museums cinema, which will be available
again starting February 12th. The film addresses the war
years from 1939-1945 and the rebuilding of the city. The
film is shown Tue at 11:00 and 12:00, Wed-Fri at 10:00 and
12:00, and Sat and Sun at 12:00 and 14:00 and lasts 20
minutes (in French, Italian German and Spanish by request).
Film tickets are 10/7z (and the entrance for the film is from
Rynek Starego Miasta 42) while general museum admission
is 10/7zl. Thursday, however, are free. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Note that opening
hours may be subject to change.
Mu s e u m o f I n d e p e n d e n c e ( Mu z e u m
Niepodlegoci) B-2, Al. Solidarnoci 62, tel. (+48)
22 826 90 91, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl. Rather
ironically, the museum that charts Polands struggle for
freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during communist
rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all
the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Pisudskis return
to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity (though this last
exhibit is currently unavailable). Among the 48,000 exhibits
are objects recovered from WWII concentration camps, and
some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 8/5z. Thu free.
Museum of John Paul II Collection (Muzeum Kole-
kcji im. Jana Pawa II) A-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. (+48)
22 620 27 25. This is exactly the kind of overlooked museum
that houses gems tourists will consider themselves lucky to
stumble upon. In 1986 Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski
gifted the country with 400 paintings and sculptures acquired
through years of dabbling in Western European art. The
Carroll-Porczynskis themselves are an interesting duo - she
was sent to Sibera in 1940, then matriculated to Rhodesia
and England where she obtained several degrees while he
was part of the Home Army and sent to Pawiak Prison, Aus-
chwitz and Buchenwald before going to England and getting
a PhD. Their collection is now housed in the historical Bank of
Poland building and includes a unicorn sculpture by Salvador
Dali, a painting of Renoirs son Pierre, an idyllic farm scene by
Van Gogh, the head of John the Baptist by Rodinthe mind
boggles at the list of noted artists housed here. The Banks
soaring rotunda is home to over 80 self-portraits, and the
first floor houses works of a more religious nature. One of
the most stunning is Wojciech Gersons Baptism of Lithuania,
a massive painting that represents Lithuanias baptism into
Christianity. A lack of surly museum maids and a well-marked
route make the JPII museum even more enjoyable. Q Open
10:00 - 16:00. Tickets to visit the main floor cost 8/4 z. In
the New Year the 1st floor opens up, and tickets to the whole
museum will be 13/8z.
Museum of Polish Peoples Movement (Muze-
um Historii Polskiego Ruchu Ludowego) Al.
Wilanowska 204 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76,
www.mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by
Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish Peoples
Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards - just
try to find any other English-speaker whos been here (though
recently the museum has added some English brochures to
help non-Polish visitors). As the title suggests, everything
here is focused on Polish people/peasants, with the oldest
exhibit being a 17th century manuscript approved by King
Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a tax reduction. Most of these
scrolls, documents and papers will be lost on the foreign
visitor; making more sense are the printed materials, which
include election posters from the interwar years, as well as
decrees, ration cards and purchase vouchers supplied by the
occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism are
particularly well represented, and visitors will see a number
of stirring Soviet chic posters encouraging hard work and
high production. Very Socialist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings
depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz
Kociuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps,
flags, medals and caricatures, theyre all here, as well as a
great little war-themed section which presents bayonets,
armbands worn by peasant fighters during WWII, first aid
kits and a typewriter and printing contraption used in the
creation of subversive press. Q Open 08:30 - 15:30. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission 2/1z. Thu free.
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popieuszko (Muzeum
Bogosawionego Ks. Jerzego Popieuszki)
ul. Kardynaa Stanisawa Hozjusza 2 (oliborz), tel.
(+48) 22 561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. Youd
probabl y thi nk a museum honouri ng a pri est doesn t
sound like much fun, and indeed this place really isnt.
However, it is a very decent detour if you happen to be in
the oliborz area, and thats because Father Jerzy was no
ordinary priest. Popieuszko came to national attention
in the early1980s for his fierce anti-communist rhetoric,
and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and Solidarity it
wasnt long till he ran afoul of the internal security services.
Presi denti al Pal ace C- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was considered
the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieie would
have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized
by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and
churches that line it. Of those none are more important than
the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious
fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking
soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanisaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed after
his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century became famed for its ban-
quets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate
the coronation of Stanisaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zoty was spent entertaining the 4,000
guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nations finest
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on
these very grounds, is recognized as Europes first - and
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowskis
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its
residents none were more eccentric than General Zajczek,
a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair
by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless look-
ing maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that
banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that
included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing
cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of
the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting
Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to
the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and
in 1879 Jan Matejkos epic painting The Battle of Grunwald
was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Exten-
sively remodelled throughout the course of history one of its
biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century
when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel
Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it
was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister
and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited
in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring
the architectural details he was late for his appointment with
the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the
1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years
later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time
when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Unions answer to NATO
- was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as
the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly
why youll find streams of limos heading in and out, and
square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who
strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact
that current president Bronisaw Komorowski does not live
there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace
next to azienki Park.
Presidential Palace
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Mczestwa)
G-4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.
muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/mauzoleum_szucha. Every
bit as disturbing as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found
on Al. Szucha 25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the buildings
original purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs.
In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and for the
next five years became one of the most feared addresses in
Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal inter-
rogation centre. The imposing building, currently housing the
Ministry of Education, was left untouched by the carnage of
war and now also holds a small but sobering museum within
its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were held prior to interroga-
tion, have been left largely as they were. Known as trams,
Poles would be sat on wooden benches facing the wall as
they awaited their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were
compelled to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days
on end. Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death.
The bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing
story. Although the torture cells have long since been blocked
off, the English language tape that the curator plays paints a
vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners were subjected to savage
beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who
didnt co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch
their own families being tortured. The office where prisoners
would have been checked in also remains, complete with a
faded portrait of Hitler and battered issues of Wehrmacht
magazine lying around. Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister
instruments can also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QO-
pen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z,
Thu free, ticket also admits you to Pawiak Prison (ul. Dzielna
24/26). An English-language leaflet costs 3 z and contains
info about the mausoleum, types of torture used and more.
Gestapo HQ
Fotoplastikon F-3, Al. Jerozolimskie
51, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.
fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Now, you
may hear some people claiming this to
be the only fotoplastikon in Europe. This
is clearly a lie - theres one across the
road in the Palace of Culture, for a start.
Nonetheless, dont let that stop your visit. Hidden away
in a darkened pre-war tenement a visit here really is a trip
back in time. So what the devil is a fotoplastikon? Invented
in Germany in the second half of the 19th century theyre
basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) set
inside a great big drum-like contraption. Presenting vivid
images from across the world these groovy machines
became an absolute sensation and at any onetime there
were an estimated 250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got
its first in 1901, and the one on show here is thought to be
from 1905. Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete
by improved camera and film technology this one contin-
ued to open for the public, and during the war apparently
served as a contact point for the Polish underground. Its
role as a meeting point for academics and intellectuals
continued well into communism, and today this family run
operation allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw and other
global landmarks in their pre-war glory. The show lasts
20 minutes and comes highly recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2z. Sun free.
Fotoplastikon
82
SIGHTSEEING
83
SIGHTSEEING
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided to get
rid of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this
purpose, though Popieuszko somehow survived unscathed.
Six days later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his
corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of
250,000 mourners and made headlines the world over.
Today the basement of his former parish church has been
turned into a museum to remember not just his life, but the
whole struggle for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed
by the underground, banners from the Solidarity strikes
and pictures of the funeral are among the many items on
display, as are the clothes he was wearing when he was
kidnapped. Particularly poignant is a curved wall, its bricks
inscribed with the names of martyrs dealt with by security
services between 1981 and 1989. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.
Donations welcome.
Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu
i Turystyki) ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie 4 (oliborz), tel.
(+48) 22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not
long back museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with
stupid hours and hawk-like curators ensuring fingers and
noses were kept well away from the glass. Well heres the
new face of sightseeing, a spanking new glass building that
could well have been sent down from space. Cynics might
say a seven floor Olympic Centre is largely wasted on the
Poles, a nation which hasnt exactly dominated the planet
in the field of sport. This place is here to prove the naysay-
ers wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits testifying to Polands
contribution to recreation.
The exhibition starts off with a passing glance at Ancient
Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early
pioneers of games, before moving off in a more patriotic
direction and leaning towards the more Polski side of things.
Included are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies
and memorabilia from the Warsaw Rowing Association, ap-
parently the oldest sports organization in town.
Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years,
Salt Lake City etc), this is more than just a thorough look
at Polish sport, its the final word. Film reels and sound
effects complement often hilarious pictures (mustachioed
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.
warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office
is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station
on the Zote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross
over the road youll see it). Inside you can choose from
a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books
and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194
31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of
the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all
the necessary guides and maps you might need including
In Your Pockets. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Tu-
rystyki) B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find
this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you
can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and
souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information
Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum
(Muzeum - Miejsce Pamici Palmiry) Palmiry,
tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This
brand new and highly recommended museum in the
forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard
for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little
history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and
Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruc-
tion in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped
in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate
mass executions performed by German soldiers against
1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and
cultural figures. Inside this well-organized modern block
visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for train-
ing and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned
their refuge into a killing field. Information boards clearly
explain what happened in the forest (these are some of
the best English translations weve seen) and displays
include exhumed items like documents and photos, even
sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their
bark. A video re-enacts how German soldiers system-
atically marched civilians to their deaths, and the tour
ends with an endless audio loop that reads the names
of the victims. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery
of marked and unmarked crosses (the museum also
describes the exhumation process that took place in
the forest) dedicated to the victims. While the museum
is mainly dedicated to what happened in the forests
during World War II it also makes note of the fact that
Poles have taken to these woods during the Kosciuszko
Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and
the January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum
from Warsaw involves a subway trip that connects to
a slightly stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride on the
800 bus, which unfortunately only runs during holidays.
Instead catch the PKS bus from Warszawa Zachodnia
Bus Station Mon-Sat at 11:00 (direction: Mawa), and
Sun at 12:15 (direction: uromin). Or grab the PKS bus
PKS from Dworzec Gdaski, which departs at 10:15 and
goes every day (direction: Warszawa Zakroczym). QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Note that opening hours may be subject
to change. Admission free.
Palmiry
supermen from bygone times triumphantly li fting dumb-
bells). However this is no circus sideshow, and it soon
becomes clear that the Poles have a proud and distin-
guished history across all fields, something apparent in
the Olympic Hall of Fame which features scores of medals.
Heroes such as ex Man City legend Kazimierz Deyna and
ski champ Adam Maysz are all celebrated, and the vast
collection even has room for a kayak once used by Pope
John Paul II to row around the Mazurian Lakes. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/6z.
Sat free.
National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C- 4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.
mnw.ar t.pl . Located i nsi de a huge and deci dedl y
bi zarre i nter-war bui l di ng, Warsaws Nati onal Museum
has thankfull y j ust reopened after a l ong renovation that
has seen many changes i ncl udi ng the renovati on of the
museums mai n courtyard, a maj or rearrangement of
the permanent gal l eri es and an i mpressi ve upcomi ng
schedul e of temporary exhi bi ts. Consi deri ng the new
overhaul thi s museum i s a must for anyone vi si ti ng the
ci ty. Dati ng from 1862 and operati ng under i ts current
name si nce 1916, theres a huge array of permanent
exhi bi ti ons and anti qui ti es. Vi si tors wi l l fi nd a weal th
of del i ght ful 15th-century Dutch and Fl emi sh pai nti ngs
i n the Gal l ery of Ol d European Pai nti ngs and several
gal l eri es of Pol i sh art from the 16th century onwards,
i ncl udi ng some of the best work by the countrys l ead-
i ng names i n art - Chemoski and Matej ko to name
a few. A new gal l er y dedi cated to works from the
20th and 21st centuri es i s wel l worth a l ook for fans
of more recent pi eces. QOpen 10: 00 - 18: 00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00. Cl osed Mon. Ti cket pri ces: permanent
exhi bi ti ons 15/10z, enti re museum 20/15z. Fami l y
ti cket: 40z permanent exhi bi ts, 50z enti re museum.
Tue free for permanent exhi bi ti on. Last entrance 45
mi nutes before cl osi ng.
Neon Museum ul. Miska 25, Soho Factory, Building
55, tel. (+48) 516 60 88 81, www.neonmuzeum.org.
A brilliantly enlightening (ha!) private initiative by London-
based photographer Ilona Karwinska and graphic designer
David S. Hill to salvage Polands culturally signi ficant neon
signs of the 1960s-70s from the dustbin of history. During
the post-Stalin years these neons were seen as symbols
of economic success and the strive towards a more open
and culturally relaxed society. The glowing signs, designed
by some of Polands top architects and designers, adver-
tised products, cinemas, dancehalls, restaurants and
cocktail bars and also served as local landmarks. The
post-communist years saw a scant disregard for anything
connected to that era, many buildings were demolished and
the beauti ful neons were simply tossed into skips or left in
states of disrepair to rot away. Luckily, Karwinska and Hill
saw the signi ficance of these artefacts and have managed
to save over 50 neons and around 500 letterforms from
certain destruction. The museum is also home to a huge
archive of documentation, blueprints, photographs and
original plans relating to the history of these signs. Housed
in the super cool Soho Factory complex, the museum is
certainly a one of a kind experience and well worth a visit
for anyone interested in design history and Polands past.
Remember to keep your eye out for some of the remain-
ing old neons which are still in-situ around Warsaw - for
example the brilliant Netball Player on Plac Konstytucji or
the Dancing sign on Nowy Swiat. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Suggested entry
donation 10/5z.
Royal Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-
krolewski.pl. More a palace than a castle, this building
is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble
at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the
furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled
Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has
been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president
and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish mo-
ments. Maps on the wall reflect Polands greatest days,
when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The
apartments of Jzef Poniatowski have recently been
opened to the public, though unfortunately none of the
accompany descriptions are in English. The rooms are
still a worthwhile part of the tour, if for no other reason
than to see the Princes surprisingly cerulean bedroom
and grand collection of paintings. Some of the halls are
reputed to be intermittently haunted by a white lady.
According to legend her appearance signals imminent
disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing
the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz
Kocuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament.
Last but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has
so much gold stuck to the walls its hard to resist the
temptation to scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldnt
notice. Behave or get accosted by vigilant wardens and
enjoy the views across the river to the Praga district
instead. For those interested in the Castles recon-
struction the basement exhibition From Destruction to
Reconstruction details the buildings resurrection after
World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble. Note that
this exhibition is free, so those not willing to spring for
a ticket for the entire tour can still visit this section of
the Castle. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon except for November 11. Last entrance 1
hour before closing. Admission 22/15z, family ticket 14z
per person. Sun free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl,
family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free. Guides in English
110z, audioguides 17/12z.
Royal Castle
84
SIGHTSEEING
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
85
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
PALACE OF CULTURE & SCIENCE
Follow POLANDIYP on
Palace of Culture and Science (Paac Kultury
i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00,
www.pkin.pl. Dont let the name fool you - this is not the
cultural hub of Warsaw. That said, however long youre in the
city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet Warsaw. For
all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome Warsaw,
the four decades of communism have yet to be completely
erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldnt miss this hulk-
ing giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231 metres into
the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland, in spite of
recent competition from its highrise neighbours.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a gift from the Soviet
people the structure actually takes its inspiration from the
capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, be-
lieve it or not, was specifically designed to include influences
from all of Polands architectural styles. Stalin had sent a
secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building
and American construction methods, though the outbreak
of WWII meant that it wasnt until 1952 that his architects
were able to commence putting their knowledge into prac-
tice. Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous
Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the
design and set about making the building into one of the most
notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the
world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west
Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside
world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years
to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction,
though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin
never lived to see his pet project completed.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288
rooms the Palaces purpose was to serve as not just party
headquarters but also the peoples castle, with invitations
to the annual New Years Eve Ball issued to the best workers
in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an
object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist
Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Pisudskiego, the palace
was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony.
Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from
30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalins
orders architects travelled around Polands key cultural sights,
from Wawel to Zamo, observing Polish architectural tradi-
tions, hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skodowska-Curie (a famous communist
sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking
parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical
socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - its
easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening de-
vices. Several conference rooms still hold original translator
booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning
glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent
red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding
2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though
through the years it became better known as a concert venue
- hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and
the Chippendales in 2006.
Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is
not a lot to see, unless youre into conference facilities, so
visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor.
To get there youll need to buy a ticket, after which youll be
shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift
attendant who has probably been doing the job since the
building opened. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission for the
viewing level is 18/12z. Group ticket for more than 10 people
10z per person.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki)
B- 4, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47,
www.muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl. A vast collection
dedicated to the history of everything technological inside
the equally enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this
museum is only missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly
laid out by somebody with a sadistic sense of humour,
the scores of rooms are scattered willy nilly and organ-
ised with what appears to be a contemptuous disregard
for reason and logic. Highlights include a cavalcade of
impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes, a room
packed with 19th century musical boxes, historical cars
li ke a 1936 Lux-Sport li mousi ne chassis and a small
exhibi tion cel ebrating space expl oration that coul d do
with some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains
and staf fed by an army of si nister-l ooki ng ol d ladi es,
this museum guarantees that you wont learn a thing no
matter how hard you try, but its a strangely rewarding
experience that reall y has to be seen to be believed. Q
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission
14/8z. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30z. Guided tours
in English - additional 50z per group.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G- 4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628
64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound
the communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of
the building with the intention of building a military theatre on
the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujaz-
dowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military
hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now has three
large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best
of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and
the ugly, featuring the work of Polands leading contemporary
artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also
houses a very good bookshop and a caf. QOpen 12:00
- 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Parks
azienki Park (azienki Krlewskie) G- 4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. The park and palace complex where half
of Warsaw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional
family stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped gardens
include the art-deco Chopin monument (1926), the Palace
on the Island (remodelled in 1792), an old orangery and a
classicist amphitheatre loosely inspired by Herculaneum.
The 74 hectare site originally served as the residence of
Stanisaw August Poniatowski - Polands last monarch. In
spite of sporadic damage, much of the dynamite laid by Nazi
troops failed to destroy the buildings. Q Park open from dawn
till dusk. Admission free.
Ujazdowski Park G-4. Not as grand as the nearby azienki,
its still a pleasant place to walk the dog and get up to other
typical Sunday pastimes. It stands under the imposing shadow
of Ujazdowski Castle which was rebuilt in the 1970s.
Places of Interest
Invisible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.
niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibi-
tion you cant see? Thats the idea behind Niedwidzialna
Wystawa (The Invisible Exhibition), which takes visitors
into the world of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours
(which we recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting)
are helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are
partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with
several stations that help get you acclimated to the chal-
lenges blind people face daily. Youll get to tap on a Braille
typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks
in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing
a blindfold. Once youre sufficiently awed by your inability to
do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into the main
portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that
force you to rely on your other senses to get by (were not
kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). Youll visit an
art gallery, a bar and take a walk outside while the guides
ask questions about what youre encountering - youll be
listening for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street,
or feeling a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you
bring along change the guide will even serve you a drink in
the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will
have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance
60 minutes before closing. Admission 24-28/19-25z, family
ticket 69z. Tickets reserved online cost 3 z less per ticket.
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Pol-
skiego) C- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 684
63 66, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history
of the Polish army is presented in a series of gl oomy
rooms. Sui ts of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals
and paintings pack this museum, though the scarcity of
English-language explanations mean youll need to hire an
English-speaking guide to get the most out of the place.
The room at the end is dedicated to Polands role in WWII,
with speci fic emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously,
the best part of the museum is actually free of charge:
the outdoor collection of 20th century weaponry includes
an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers.
Note that visitors can see the Transport Aircraft AN26
(or similar machines) for a 2z fee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00,
Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, Sun free. Tours
with audioguide 17/10z.
Photo: Jan Kucharzyk/Archiwum Stoecznego Biura Turystyki
Ronal d Reagan
Monument (Pomnik
Ronalda Reagana)
C-4, Al. Ujazdowskie.
A large bronze statue
of U.S. President Ron-
al d Reagan now cal l s
Warsaw home after an
unveiling in November
2011 that included for-
mer Pol i sh Presi dent
and Sol i dari ty l eader
Lech Wasa. The large
3.5-metre monument
portrays Reagan, who
was the 40th president
of the United States and
held office from 1981-
1989, when he stood
at a podium at Berlins
Brandenburg gate and
declared, Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall, back
in 1987.
So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the
Gipper? In Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th
centurys most important leaders thanks to his long-
standing opposition to communism. During Reagans
Christmas address in 1981 he cited the persecution of
the Solidarity trade union by the countrys communist
government as evidence that the regime was waging
war against i ts own people. That holiday season
candles were put in the windows of the White House to
show Reagans support of the Solidarity movement and
the Polish people.
Reagans continued poli cy of vi gorousl y promoting
democracy and condemning communism is credited
as hastening the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and
along with Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter
of Wasas campaign for presidency in 1990. During the
unveiling ceremony Wasa noted his belief that without
Reagan Poland wouldnt be a free nation today. The
statue, which was created by Polish sculptor Wadysaw
Dudek, can be found across the street from the United
States embassy.
Ronald Reagan Monument
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Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw upris-
ing of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paint-
ings of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,
its a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour
or two of nun spotting.
When US General Dwi ght Ei senhower vi si ted Warsaw
immediately after the war he was moved to comment, I
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have
I been faced with such destruction. Buri ed under
twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled
a shattered shell; over hal f the population had been killed,
and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Ol d
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Polands recovered territories. Szczecin, for
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic
buildings in order to donate an estimated 27 million bricks
to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocaw, which
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks
to Warsaw per day; He who loves Wrocaw, loves Warsaw
as well pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although
its barely hal f a century old Warsaws historic quarter is
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city
that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),
and i f youre Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.
There isnt a more popular meeting spot in the city, and
theres not a minute of the day when the steps to the
statue arent besieged by dating couples or banjo playing
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt IIIs son, Wadysaw
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Polands second oldest
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun
Fountain in Gdask. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt
rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occur-
rence that was first reported during the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that cant be
disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of
the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down witojaska to run a gaunt-
let of buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys.
Somewhere amid the melee youll spot the Cathedral (see
Churches), well worth popping into, not least to check out
the Baruczkowski Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned
for its mysterious powers. Famed in particular for its crypt
this neo-Gothic masterpiece also contains stunning works
of art, as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered
from a remote-controlled German tank used to attack the
cathedral in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so
its no surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right
next door, a super renaissance building described in detail
in our Churches section.
Its hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but thats exactly what it
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the
war time devastation. The Old Towns subsequent inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,
or Beer Street as it translates. Although theres no evidence
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martins Church
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and
dont miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod
Gobiami (under the pigeons) and housing a restaurant
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around
the post-war debris.
OLD TOWN
Back outside take stock of one of Polands finest town
squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town
hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never re-
placed. Instead, today youll find a couple of water pumps
dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaws best
loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaids
form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms youll find in
the capital. Youre also liable to run into a platoon of street
artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird, cloaked
little man who plays one of Europes last music boxes with
a parrot alongside him. But for real comedy gold check out
the mime artists who stand in frozen posture - a few years
back one such chap, dressed as a monk, collapsed after
a marathon booze binge leaving his giant genitals exposed
to the world.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kamienne Schodki.
Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, its also
where Napoleon stood in 1806, pensively staring east-
ward on the eve of his campaign on the plains of Russia.
From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach
the grassy bank that offers sweeping views of the River
Wisa. Known as Gnojna Gra (Compost Hill), this small
knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one
stage was also renowned for its healing properties - this is
where the stupid rich would come to be buried up to their
necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis. Doesnt
work, weve tried.
Head back towards the Old Town by walking towards ul.
Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most
picturesque sights in the city. Finally, conclude your epic
walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a grave-
yard, this small little square features a cracked cathedral
bell (that promises good luck i f you touch the top and
circle it) as well as what is touted as the worlds narrowest
house at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home being
constructed in the crack between 22 Chodna St. and 74
elazna St. that measures just 72 cm at its smallest point
may just top it). Close by note the covered walkway linking
the cathedral to the castle. This was built after a failed
assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King escaped
unmolested, but the hapless hitman, Michal Piekarski,
found himsel f skinned alive, stretched by four horses and
then chopped into pieces with an axe. And on that happy
note, consider your tour at an end.
OLD TOWN
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area
around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was for-
merly home to a small square used primarily for executions.
Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other neer do
wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have their heads
lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old
city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliski
(see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot and a hero of the
1794 Kociuszko Uprising. The man who gave his name to
that Uprising, Tadeusz Kociuszko (the same lad who would
fight with distinction in the American War of Independence,
and would later have Australias highest peak named after
him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This wide street was formerly
home to Warsaws fish market, while the street running at a
90 degree angle, Wski Dunaj, was the towns original Jewish
Quarter back in medieval times. Directly behind the wall, and
onto Podwale, youll find one of Warsaws most photographed
landmarks; The Monument to the Little Insurgent. Depicting
a boy weighed down by a machine gun and outsized helmet
the monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who
fought and died in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and its not
rare to find the bronze statue surrounded by school groups
on their day out to the capital.
Foll ow Podwal e as i t curves northwards, and i f youre
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to
Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place
is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage
practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage its fair to say
youll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig,
so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan
building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes
wholl try and lead you to their executioners block to have
your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which
once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund
structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work
of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between
Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for
teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of
the interior are available, and well worth the look if you dont
have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat
that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition
to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th
century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls
were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses
that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten
defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with
Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and
expose these ancient walls.
Its at this point youll find your nose pointing straight down
ul. Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaws best ice
cream. Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square
(Rynek). No matter how often you see it, it cant fail to leave
you breathless. The burgher houses that line the square
are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details
on the facades. Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is
Warsaws defining highlight, and presents unlimited ways
to squander your money - tourist junk stores and crappy
restaurants populated with stuffed animals come to mind.
One place that is worth popping into, even if its just to steal
the cutlery, is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition
here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this
place into Warsaws top winery. Today the restaurant is
in the hands of the Gesslers, and their guest list reads as
something of a Whos Who of stage and screen. Close by is
the Historical Museum of Warsaw, which has been closed
for renovations but reopens in May be one of the first to
see this excellent museums overhaul.
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PRAGA PRAGA
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms be-
ing tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of
Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and theyre all fairly apt.
Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors
thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks,
but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy
of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the citys
artsy underbelly and get away from the well-trodden tourist
path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away
from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but
thats exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you
can say you saw the evolution in progress.
In practice and geographically Praga has always been set
apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own
separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge
between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely
proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer
and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were
the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally
in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the
district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence
(at least on paper).
Praga wasnt given much time to enjoy its new status as
part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794,
which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Fol-
lowing the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned
the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living
there. During World War II Praga wasnt quite as devastated
as Warsaw proper (which isnt really saying much if youve
seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again,
arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula,
famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the
Warsaw Uprising.
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,
especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town
too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as
distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive
beer selection.
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Ag-
nieszki Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul.
Obrocw). Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish
poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs,
many of which were turned into pop hits. Shes also known
for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties;
her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband,
Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles
Mansons family of weirdos in what would turn out to be
one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in
Praga Poudnie, a more modern section of Praga (note the
surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your
visit check out Osieckas favourite caf, Maska, which stands
around the corner from her monument.
Bears C-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarnoci), tel.
(+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been
living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over
400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos,
safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the
bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several
years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into
the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are
called Tatra and Turnia.
Buildings. Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much
of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the
bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is
to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving
residential building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul.
Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish el-
ementary school and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from
1934. Note that at press time the buildings were covered with
a protective sheet due to impending renovations.
Kapela Podwrkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.
Floriaska and ul. Kopotowskiego. The tradition of cloth-
capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the
best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart
of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwrkowa (The Courtyard
Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the
five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument
sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel.
7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1
and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side
of the brass drum); thats the signal for hidden speakers to
burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous
by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue
have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did
not always result in a song being played.
Koci us z kowcw Monument (Pomni k
Kociuszkowcw) G-1, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie,
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish
Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted
to cross the Wisa river several times without success, in a
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew
w. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 52, tel.
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869
to a design by Mikoaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalenes was
originally built for the large congregation of Russians living
around Jagielloska as well as people arriving from the
East at the nearby Wileska train station. Now belonging to
the independent Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this
stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden
interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One
of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition cam-
paign in the 1920s, its easily the best-smelling church in
Praga thanks to the heavy burning of rich incense. Q Open
11:00 - 15:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00; Sat open during mass only.
Rycki Bazaar (Bazar Ryckiego) H-1, ul.
Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarro-
zyckiego.pl. Once regarded as Warsaws premier bazaar,
the rambling Bazar Ryckiego has seen its popularity wane
since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and
communist governments, but nowadays the historic market
(it began in 1901) is a ghostly image of its former self. Once
considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious
goods, its now a mildly depressing look into working class
Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire polyester
wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling cheap
wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy mother-of-
the-bride gowns. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00, Sat 06:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)
G-1, Pl. Wileski. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died
during the liberation of Warsaw, this monument has been
removed due to the construction of a new Metro station
and will spend some time being restored before relocating
80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileski (towards ul. Cyryla
i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII,
the rusting edi fice is the citys least loved memorial and
is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should
temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite
apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in
1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and
then demolished the city.
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral (Katedra w.
Michaa Archanioa i
w. Floriana) G- 1, ul.
Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 22
619 09 60, www.katedra-
floriana.home.pl/cms/. This
giant gothic cathedral view-
able from across the Vistula
in Warsaw proper was built in
reaction to the building of an
Orthodox Church and a num-
ber of other structures on the
Tsars orders in the latter half
of the 19th century. A certain
Pole by the name of Father
Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction
of a huge new Catholic church, which was consecrated in
1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown to
pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now al-
most exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between
1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre
steeples, the church, which includes a photograph of what
remained of it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall
as you enter, has a rather plain interior though the vaulted
ceilings are well worth a look at if youre in the area. Q Open
by prior arrangement.
Zbkowska. Nowhere is Pragas revival better illustrated
than ulica Zbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all
the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized
to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame
houses, Zbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that
led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all
but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard,
with Zbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans
for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However
it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of
buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and
galleries opened. For some the very name Zbkowska is syn-
onymous with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40
41, www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in
animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was
opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More
than 5,000 species call it home and that includes all the
biggies youd expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to
name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo
has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of
the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed,
deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into
the wild. Zoo director, Jan abiski, became something of a
hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped
save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside
the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949.
Q Open from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 20/15z. Children under 3 years free.
Nightlife
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife.
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra H-1, ul. Jagielloska 22.
See Nightlife.
W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6. See
Nightlife.
Restaurants
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16. See Restaurants.
By Public Transport:
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears
as you disembark). If youre in the Old Town simply walk
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.
By taxi:
You can also take a taxi which should cost around
20-30z and should take you from the centre area to
Zbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember
that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your
journey may be longer during rush hours.
Getting to Praga
Praga Tourist Information (Praska Informacja
Turystyczna) H-1, ul. Zbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48)
22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Info on the local
area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as
an application for smartphones that offers a tour of
Praga in English. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist Information
Micha Durak/Wikipedia/
CC BY-SA 3.0
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ELEKTORALNA & CHODNA ELEKTORALNA & CHODNA
the theatre crowd gather to discuss opening night, and its
not rare to find stars of Polish screen and stage hunched
over beers while shaggy dogs sit in their midst. Dont be
surprised to walk in on impromptu poetry slams, or a
performance by experimental bands answering to names
like The Crazy Pierogi.
Etgar Kerets House E- 2, ul. Ch odna 22/ul.
elazna 74, centrala.net.pl/our-work/keret. Across
the street from Chodna 25 youll find the l ocation for
what is one of the thinnest homes in the world (were not
kidding: opening the refrigerator door would necessitate
standing in another room). Designed by architect Jakub
Szczsny, the steel-framed construction will be finished
with Styrofoam and plywood with its widest point being
152cm and its narrowest just 92cm. The Israeli writer
Etgar Keret, for whom this has been built, will use it as a
home in Warsaw and when he is out of town, the installa-
tion (it has been listed a piece of art as it has no building
licence) will act as a studio for visiting artists. Keret is an
interesting character in himsel f. The son of a Polish Jew
who spent 3 years of the war hiding from the Germans in
a compartment under the floor of a Warsaw house, Keret
sees this project as an external eye on Warsaw and its
cultural landscape. He wants to show that Warsaw is a
lively and multicultural city totally at odds with the image
created by the Ministry of Education in Israel who he feels
indoctrinate Israeli youth in a pilgrimage of hatred. The
location is also signi ficant. Found on what was the border
between the large and small ghettos of WWII Warsaw, the
building can be found perched between a Communist era
block and a pre-war tenement which is meant as a com-
ment on the neighbourhoods divided past The buildings
were not touching each other which is symbolic of the
ignorance during the Communist period says Szczsny.
I f a symbol was needed for the district this surely should
be it in our opinion.
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chodna and ul. elazna. Standing on the corner of
elazna and Chodna is the Footbridge of Memory
memori al , two gi ant metal pol es connected across
Chodna by wires. This is the location of one of the most
recognisable images of the Warsaw ghetto: the footbridge
that connected the small and large ghettos. At night the
wires li ght up and create a virtual bridge in the exact
location of the former ghetto bridge. The poles also have
viewing windows where visitors can flip through images
of li fe in the Warsaw ghetto. By now youve also prob-
ably noticed the pavement outline that symbolizes the
ghettos borders, which can be found on the sidewalk as
you tromp down Chodna.
Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem E-2, ul. elazna
68. More of Chodnas Jewish connections later, next up is
a visit to Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the Red
Hog Inn). The storys a good one: in 2006 workers uncovered
the remains of a secret underground eatery frequented over
the decades by all the communist baddies youd ever think
of - Mao, Lenin, Castro and Brezhnev to name but a few. Un-
earthed were a stack of medals, uniforms, manuscripts and
menus, so this being capitalist Poland a plan was hatched to
restore the restaurant to its former glory and make a mint
from touting it as the all-singing commie experience. Of
course, the story itself is a load of poppycock, and nothing
more than a cheeky PR stunt pulled by the management. But
it was enough to fool the journalists and a legend was born.
Now its an intrinsic part on any tour of Socialist Poland, as
well as jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, aspic and pigs
trotters. Yum!
The major sights in Warsaw need little introduction to the
visitor who has already chalked up a few days sightseeing
in the city. But theres more to the city than cobbled squares
and palaces on lakes as a little detour just to the north west
of the central station will reveal. Weve decided to give the
lesser known and quite frankly in places, pig ugly, streets
of Chodna and Elektoralna a look to discover some sights
rarely highlighted by guided tours but which are fascinating
none the less. The following sights have been presented in
an order to allow you to visit each in order as you pass from
west to east.
This walking tour starts at the western end of ul. Chodna
and brings you back towards the centre. Trams stop at the
nearby junction with ul. Towarowa (D-2) and one suggestion
might be to walk back to the centre via this route after having
visited the nearby Warsaw Uprising Museum.
Warsaw Trade Tower D-2, ul. Chodna 51. The first
point of call on your tour is at one of Warsaws unavoidable
landmarks - the Warsaw Trade Tower. Completed in 1999
this 208-metre skyscraper stands out as a masterpiece in
a city not short of latter-day architectural marvels. Tower-
ing over all its immediate neighbours the Trade Tower was
originally christened the Daewoo Centre, before financial
disaster saw it sold off to the highest bidder (US$100 mil-
lion) in what was then the biggest purchase transaction in
Polish real estate history. Characterized by its cylindrical
shape and odd angles its a breathtaking piece of work,
and equally impressive from the inside. The interior design
was apparently inspired by art deco Chicago, while hi-tech
gadgetry includes some of the quickest elevators in Europe
- 35 seconds to the 41st floor.
Meridian E-2, ul. Chodna 48. Onwards down the street
and youll be quick to note that the tower stands out like a
shark in a paddling pool. Surrounding it is practically noth-
ing, just a stretch of grubby looking car service centres. Its
only as you reach the intersection with ul. Wronia that signs
of regeneration become apparent. Straddling the corner is
the Meridian apartment block, a flashy gated community,
located on the site of a former engineering factory. This is
planned to be the first of many aimed at regenerating this
quarter of town. Featuring a two-level underground car park,
Japanese garden and marble lobby you couldnt wish for a
sharper contrast to what is found opposite.
Chodna 25 E-2, ul. elazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chodna). Facing the Meridian apartment block is Chodna at
its worst - a darkened pre-war tenement flanked by low-level
prefabricated buildings selling hammers, spanners, mops
and tyres. Then, lined up like tin soldiers, theres enough
bars to put your tour in seriously danger of being terminated
earlier than expected.
Things improve as you reach the junction with ul. elazna.
Just before i t youll find Chodna 25, one of the finest
establishments of its kind. Opened in 2004 this is where
Jerzy Popieuszkos house A-3, ul. Chodna 15. Back
onto Chodna and youll find more signs of Polands communist
legacy in the shape of rows and rows of grim concrete tower
blocks. They all look the same, and make for a depressing
backdrop. However its not for this reason that Chodna is best
known. Chodna 15 is where Jerzy Popieuszko, the Catholic
priest murdered by security services in 1984, once lived. A
fierce anti-communist Popieuszko had strong links with the
Solidarity movement and had been identified as a threat to the
system. Having already survived one attempt on his life he was
followed after saying mass in Bydgoszcz on October 19th, 1984,
apprehended and murdered before his body was unceremoni-
ously dumped in a lake. Seen as a national hero and martyr his
funeral attracted over a quarter of a million mourners, and today
a stone tablet sits in the centre of Chodna in tribute to his life.
Adam Czerniakws house A-3, ul. Chodna 20.
Standing on the other side you cant miss Chodna 20. Not
only is this a smashing piece of art nouveau Warsaw, but
theres also a bit of history behind it all. Built in 1913 this is
the former residence of Adam Czerniakw. An engineer by
profession Czerniakw assumed fame as head of the Juden-
rat (the Jewish led organization responsible for implementing
Nazi orders in the Ghetto). Troubled by German orders to
oversee deportations to Treblinka Czerniakw chose death
by cyanide rather than comply, and his body is now interred
in the Jewish cemetery on ul. Okopowa.
St. Carlo Borromeo Church (Koci w. Karola
Boromeusza) A-3, ul. Chodna 9, tel. (+48) 22 620 37
47. The Socialist Realist buildings found next door are typical
of rebuilt Warsaw, and fine examples of this uniquely Stalinist
style. Nice as it is, theres only one thing that dominates the
vision as you look down Chodna - the splendid form of St.
Carlo Borromeo Church. Designed by Henryk Marconi, and
built between 1841 and 1849, this glorious building was
modelled on the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica in Rome.
Miraculously it escaped WWII virtually intact, with only the
presbytery sustaining damage. Subject to recent work to
restore the figures of the apostles that stand outside, this
sits up there alongside Warsaws top churches. Q Open
during mass or by prior arrangement.
T.G.I. Fridays E-2, Al. Jana Pawa II 29. From there
youre practically on Al. Jana Pawa II, separated from the clot
of traffic only by TGI Fridays. This spot is worth mentioning
because of its place in gangland folklore. Back in 1999,
when mafia gangs still ruled The Wild East, a mobster named
Kajtek was shot dead outside in a hit by the Woomin gang.
An innocent bystander was also killed in the shooting, and
the incident sparked a vicious spiral of violence; eleven days
later five men with known associations with the Woomin firm
were murdered in reprisal in another Warsaw restaurant.
Hala Mirowska A-3, Pl. Mirowski 1. Across the street
looms the giant Hala Mirowska, which consists of two nar-
row brick halls constructed between 1899 and 1901 on the
instruction of Russian mayor Nikolai Bibikov. It functioned as
Warsaws largest market up until the outbreak of the Warsaw
Uprising. Though ravaged by fire the walls refused to give
way and the buildings survived - check out the bullet scars
still all too visible. Serving as a bus depot in the immediate
post-war years the structure resumed its original purpose in
the 1950s, and today is notable for its flower stalls outside,
as well as lines of country folk selling jars of mushrooms out
of the backs of their vans.
Juliusz Sowacki Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna 20.
Continuing down Elektoralna street you might spy a rather
nasty looking pinkish stone that stands on the corner of
Elektoralna and Al. Jana Pawa II. Thats there to honour
Juliusz Sowacki, one of the three bards of Poland, who
kept quarters at number 16/22.
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts A-3, ul.
Elektoralna 12. Continuing down Elektoralna youll be met
with the sight of the Mazovia Regional Centre of Culture and
Arts on Elektoralna 12 - find classical music concerts orga-
nized each summer. Thats a far cry from years before when,
as the plaque duti fully informs us, this neo-renaissance
building served as Warsaws first hospital with standalone
pavilions. Quite what that means is anyones guess, but it
sounds impressive enough to warrant a mention.
Grzegorz Przemyk Memorial A-3, ul. Elektoralna
5/7. As your walk slowly nears its conclusion youll find
yoursel f passing a rather gloomy looking school building
on Elektoralna 5/7. Of course, this being Warsaw, even this
place has a story. Outside youll notice a plaque dedicated
to the memory of a lad called Grzegorz Przemyk. He was
the son of a subversive poetess called Barbara Sadowska
who frequently fell afoul of the communist authorities for her
covert political and artistic gatherings. Fed up with her anti-
authoritarian stance the militia decided to scare her by giving
her son a damn good kicking. It went too far, and Przemyk
died of internal injuries on May 12, 1983. The subsequent
inquiry was seen as a whitewash and the case has since
pinballed around the Polish and European law courts for over
a decade without a definitive verdict as to what happened.
Museum of John Paul II Collection A-2, Pl. Bankowy
1. On the other side of the street youll notice a figure of the
Pope John Paul II peering out from behind the colonnades.
Inside this building (formerly the Warsaw Stock Exchange)
youll find the Museum of John Paul II Collection, which houses
an excellent collection of art, from Dalis to Van Goghs, named
in honour of the late Pope. And there you have it - Chodna and
Elektoralna, two unsung heroes on the route less travelled.
Full of history, a bit of grime and plenty of quirky sights they
help paint a fuller picture of the remarkable city of Warsaw.
Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Tickets to visit the main floor cost
8/4 z. In the New Year the 1st floor opens up, and tickets
to the whole museum will be 13/8z.
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Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
the Poles continued the fight on two fronts, with segments of
Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio to let the outside
world know that Warsaw was still Polish. However the human
cost was starting to mount; the merciless bombardment
had claimed the lives of over 50,000 Varsovians, the Royal
Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of food, power and water had
reached critical levels. With Allied aid not forthcoming, and a
humanitarian disaster looming large, the capital finally raised
the white flag on September 28th. To bring the Polish heroics
into perspective, Paris, defended by the largest standing army
in the world, took just nine days to fall.
Occupation
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadnt been
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just
what a nutcase this man really was. The Fuhrers verdict on
the Poles is damning, wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitlers
stopover. More like animals than human beings, completely
primitive, stupid and amorphous.
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert
chess player and fanatical Nazi: If I had to put up a poster
for every seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not
be sufficient to manufacture the paper, he is said to have
bragged. His rule was textbook despot, both brutal and
bloody, and it was under his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer
was appointed governor of Warsaw, a post he would hold
right until 1945. Fischer was more bureaucrat than butcher,
yet nonetheless it was under his authority that Warsaw
became a city of blood.
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger-
mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and its estimated that a
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,
and street roundups and public executions became a daily
occurrence. This wasnt so much a city under occupation as
a city under tyranny.
WARSAW UPRISING
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat
from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the
east bank of the Wisa, no time seemed better than the pres-
ent. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-
exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Polands
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw
and installing an independent government.
During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt
to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved
largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with
blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued
was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army
faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of
Warsaws history was about to be written.
Outbre ak of War
At 4:45am on September 1, 1939, shots were fired from Ger-
man gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known as
the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). The object of the
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombard-
ment, inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six
years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bomb-
ers swooped on the capital in what can only be described
as one of the worlds first ever terror bombings - hospitals,
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota
was fended off, with the Germans losing 80 tanks from an
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts
of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.
Warsaws fate, and indeed Polands, was sealed days later
on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded from the
east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet Molotov-
Ribbentrop pact. Even so, with the odds stacked against them,
Insurgents charge into battle
Into captivity
WARSAW UPRISING
The Uprising
With such a malignant machine in force its little surprise
Poland gave birth to Europes largest resistance move-
ment. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide mili-
tary assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of
German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising
was possibl e, yet nothing seemed cl ear cut. Fischers
appeal s for 100,000 Pol es to present themsel ves to
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broad-
casts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announce-
ment declaring, People of the capital! To arms! Strike at
the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders
and win freedom. Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that
German military despatches on the afternoon of August
1, 1944 concluded with, Warschau ist kalm. Warsaw
was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz Bor Komorowski 5pm
si gnall ed W-Hour ( Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag
fluttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained sev-
eral concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disas-
ter - the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the
airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor,
screaming for No prisoners to be taken, and Every
inhabitant to be shot.
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,
women and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields
was quickly introduced.
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews
liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon
of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo
Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was
an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were
almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans,
yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic sel f-assurance.
Air drops were vital i f the uprising was to succeed, though
hopes were scuppered with Stalins refusal to allow Allied
planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the
RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of
Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with
over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate
- one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of
a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed,
rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the
go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross
the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a
debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made
the assault was called off. For the Russians, this single
attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was
on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaws
old town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become unten-
abl e, and a daring escape route was hatched through
the sewers running under the ci ty. The Germans were
now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts
of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour.
Six hundred millimetre shells were landing on the centre
every eight minutes, and casualties were rising to alarm-
ing rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early
September, though it wasnt till the end of the month - by
which time all hope had been exhausted - that they took
a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were
forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days after they
had taken on the Reich. The battle is finished, wrote
a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin.
From the blood that has been shed, from the common
toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a
new Poland will arise - free.
Luftwaffe v Warsaw
94 95
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WARSAW UPRISING
Aftermath
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity,
defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000
civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans
and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler
was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to
raze Warsaw could finally be realized. Remaining inhab-
itants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to
have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the
Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city.
No stone can remain standing, warned Himmler, and
what happened next can only be described as the me-
thodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were
numbered according to their importance to Polish culture
before being dynamited by teams of engineers, while less
historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Nothing
was spared the iconoclasm, not even trees. I have seen
many towns destroyed, exclaimed General Eisenhower
after the war, But nowhere have I been faced with such
destruction.
Modern studi es esti mate the cost of damage at around
fi fty four bi l l i on dol l ars. I n human terms Pol and l ost
much more. Wi th the Upri si ng di ed a gol den generati on,
the very foundati on a new post-war Pol and coul d bui l d
on. Those veterans who sur vi ved were treated wi th
suspi ci on and disdai n by the newl y i nstall ed communist
government, others were persecuted for percei ved
wester n sympat hi es. Post- war Sovi et show t ri al s
convi cted 13 l eaders of the Upri si ng for anti -Sovi et
acti ons, and thereafter the Upri si ng was condemned
as a fol l y to serve the bourgeoi s ends of the Pol i sh
government-i n-exi l e. Today, fi nal l y, the event that has
come to defi ne the spi ri t of Warsaw, has been awarded
the recogni ti on i t deserves.
Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the
Uprising remained in peoples hearts and souls. It was
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the
Rising. You did not die in vain.
Lech Walesa, 1994
Berling Statue H-3, Wa Miedzeszyski. Zygmunt
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz
his white marble monument frequentl y falls foul of the
vandals, and its not uncommon to see Berlings hands
daubed with blood red paint. Thats on account of Berlings
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little
more than a puppet wing of Stalins forces, and Berlings
perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still
rankles a great many Poles.
Bielaski Bank B-2, ul. Bielaska 10. Few remnants
of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking
shell on ul. Bielaska. Its got quite a history. The site was
originally home to a mint, but that found itsel f demolished
to make way for the Warsaw division of the Imperial Bank of
Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikoajewicz Benois, a rector of
the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction began
in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within another
four years the Russians had left, the collapse of the Empire
seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east with their tails
between their legs. The Poles took over the building, first
employing it as the National Treasury, then establishing it
as the headquarters of Bank Polski in 1926. The structure
became a key strategic target during the Warsaw Uprising,
and on capture served as a base for Polish insurgents.
Smashed to pieces by German bombs the building was
left to rot in the decades that followed. Originally slated to
house the Warsaw Uprising Museum, the bank was subject
to legal wrangles that saw that idea bite the dust. Recently
Belgian property developer Ghelamco redeveloped the
site as an office complex that opened last fall. According
to plans the six-floor building exposes parts of the walls
of the ancient mint.
Execution Sites. The fall of communism brought with
it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising, which had
hitherto been largely erased from Polish history by anti-
nationalist communist censors. Now memorial plaques and
tablets abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be
in Polish only, it doesnt take long to get the hang of them;
on the whole theyll display the date and number of people
executed by the Nazis.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pomnik
Powstania Warszawskiego) B-2, Pl. Krasiskich. It
was only with the regime close to collapse that this uncon-
ventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled.
Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincent Kucma, it
depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction
retreating into the sewers.
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstan-
ia Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,
this remains one of Polands best museums. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits its a museum thats guaranteed
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of
the Uprising (provided they dont make any wrong turns,
alas, a common mistake).
Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour
accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns,
dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls
focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through
a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.
The mezzanine level features film detailing the first
month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber
through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted
to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of re-
membrance, and a particularly poignant display about
the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black
and white before and after shots of important Warsaw
landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis
as punishment.
Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-
inducing 5 minute 3-D aerial film which took 2 years
to make and used old pictures and new technology to
recreate a picture of the desolation of liberated Warsaw
in March 1945.
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A view-
ing platform and peace garden wrap up this high impact
experience Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10z
(children under 7 free). Sun free. Audio guides for 10z
per person. Film costs 2z per person.
Uprising Museum
Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on
Warsaws east bank is a memorial to commemorate these air-
men. It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944,
killing all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor,
Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today
it is the sight of the British Embassys annual Remembrance
service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented
with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.
The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Maego
Powstaca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authori-
ties continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Up-
rising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the
Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.
Wol a Massacre Statue (Pomni k Pami ci
Ludnoci Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powstan-
ia 1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarnoci. No other event captures
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into
submission. Led by Heinz Reinfarth and Oskar Dirlewanger, a
despicable man with a history of sex crimes against minors,
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in
the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to a
halt when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians
be sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarnoci.
WARSAW UPRISING
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red
and white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign
of the insurgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising
should not be underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910
this weird tower like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a
telecommunications centre, a function it continued to serve
under the Nazis. Heavily defended by bunkers and guard
posts it was besieged for twenty two days by the Kiliski
battalion of the Home Army before finally surrendering on the
22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek handed steward-
ship of the building to a combatants association.
Prudential Tower B-3, ul. witokrzyska. The first
building in Warsaw to surpass fi fteen floors. Built using
1,250,000 bricks Warsaws first true skyscraper became
a major point of attack on opening day of the Rising, the
symbolic meaning of a Polish flag on Polands tallest structure
not lost on the insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and
though it was gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused
to topple. After the war the tower was given a thinner look,
and for decades operated as the Hotel Warszawa. Closed
in 2003, and currently in various stages of reconstruction
courtesy of the Likus Group, the tower is due to be given
a refit and new lease on life as both a hotel and top-class
apartment block.
Ruins of the Rising. Between 1939 and 1944 over
84 percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the
city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the
Herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet
scarred walls on pre-war tenements can still be found in
relative abundance round the few parts of the centre that
escaped total destruction. Perhaps most obvious of all is
the building on ul. Walicw, featuring shell-pocked facades
and a wall half-tumbling down.
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwaa Saperom)
H-3, Park Marszaka Edwarda migego-Rydza. De-
signed by Stanisaw Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. Free Warsaw will
never forget those who, with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions
of the hazardous work they undertook.
Old Town Square, 1945
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
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JEWISH WARSAW JEWISH WARSAW
At the time Hitler chose to expand Germanys territories
under the odious excuse of providing living space for the
German people, Warsaws Jewish population numbered
350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional
boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling
in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger
Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaws thriving
Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over
90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto that or the gas
chambers of Treblinka.
Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was
seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced
into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the
inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant
contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of
Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished
by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw
fell following a brief yet brutal siege the citys ancient Jewish
population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were
forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of
the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a
Jewish council answerable to the Nazis whims, was ordered
to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline
of October 15 was handed to the citys Jews. Failure to move
into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning
18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaws 1,800 streets,
the area was carved into a small and large ghetto, the two
linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chodna (E-2).
Today an installation titled Footbridge of Memory stands at
this spot, with optical fibres illuminating the former handrails
over the street at night.
From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recov-
ered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted
a food allowance totaling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and
other groups deemed sub-human were expected to survive
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by
a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the
food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was
not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became
the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way,
their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos
scattered around the Third Reich Warsaw was the largest
and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000
residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with
an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of
suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved
by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringel-
blum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944 Ringelblum,
an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes
documenting the day-to-day life of ghetto inhabitants. It is
from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and
charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets
and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated
amongst the masses.
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference
rubber-stamped plans for the final solution to the Jewish
question and the first deportations to death camps began
in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were
harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from
which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the
Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin
the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push
to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too
long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but
now with rumours circulating about death camps a band of
ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi
military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish
Fighting Organization (OB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on
April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters
continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artil-
lery and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle.
Vicious street-to-street, house-to-house battles ensued, with
insurgents often burnt out of their boltholes by flamethrowers
and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal
command post of the rebels on ul. Mia 18 and rather than
face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide.
By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander
Jurgen Stroop announcing, The former Jewish quarter of
Warsaw is no longer in existence. With the fighting over the
rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent
to Treblinka or assigned to Gsiwka (ul. Gsia), a small
concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today
Warsaws Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the citys
hollowed out Jewish culture.
Heroes in Horror
Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was
common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide
that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand
institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation
collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and re-
vealing hiding places brought considerable financial reward.
Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively
taking part in pogroms and Jew hunts, the most notorious
occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on
the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400
Jews and marching them to a barn which was subsequently
torched. Its a shameful episode in Polish history, and one
immortalised in Jan Grosss book Neighbours. Neverthe-
less, such events should be offset by stories of those who
risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at
the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for shelter-
ing Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied
territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated
that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive
and Yad Vashem has recognised over 6,000 Poles as being
Righteous Among Nations - more than in any other country.
In Rozwadow Dr.Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of Warsaw
University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews
after putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected
the towns Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed
the Nazis that an epidemic was at large. Terri fied that it
would spread, the Nazis quarantined the town and left it to
its own devices. Known as the Polish Schindler, Lazowski
saved 12 ghetto communities in this crafty manner. I was
not able to fight with a gun or a sword, Lazowski said. But
I was able to find a way to scare the Germans. In Krakow
a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz Pankiewicz was given
special permission to remain in the ghetto and exploited this
to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines were distrib-
uted for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum - came to
double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded as a
hero, Pankiewiczs role in the Holocaust is remembered in
Thomas Kenneallys epic Schindlers Ark.
Another doctor, Irena Send-
l er, i s credi ted wi th rescu-
i ng over 2, 500 Jews from
the Warsaw ghetto. Born in
1910, Sendler had a long his-
tory of sympathising with the
plight of the Jews and was
suspended for three years
from Warsaw Uni versi ty af-
ter voi ci ng her voci ferous
opposi ti on to segregated
benches and was acti ve in
the underground the moment
the war broke out. Aided by
her col l eagues she forged
over 3,000 documents to help Jewish families, and later
headed the childrens section of Zegota - a secret organ-
isation that was a Council to Aid Jews. Using the fierce-
looking court building on Solidarnosci as her bridge from
the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless children
inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent to
live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded
their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her
actions aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943
she was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A
bribe from Zegota saved her li fe, but nonetheless she was
left unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs
broken. She was officially declared dead by the Germans,
and spent the rest of the war in hiding. But even peace
brought no respite; she was persecuted by the communist
authorities on account of her wartime relations with the
exiled government, and faced constant harassment. In
2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her for
courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order
of the White Eagle - Polands highest civilian decoration.
She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of
hate for some; in July 2010 her grave was vandalised with
the words Jews Out.
Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as
the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz in
1914, Karskis photographic memory and fluent command
of foreign languages caught the attention of the Polish
diplomatic services, landing him prestigious posts abroad.
With Europe gearing up for war Karski joined the horse artil-
lery, with his unit captured by the Red Army. Karski avoided
death in the forests of Katyn when he escaped from a train
transporting him to a POW camp and headed to Warsaw
to join the Polish underground. Realising the value of his
remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a
courier, a perilous position that involved crossing frontlines
in order to swap information with allies. One such foray saw
him captured by the Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian
Tatra Mountains. He slit his wrists following an intense bout
of torture, and was locked in a closely guarded hospital in
Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose their star courier a crack
team of Polish troops broke him out and Karski resumed his
duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake a daring mis-
sion to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of Polands
government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to reveal
the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To gather
information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto and
given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting
behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that
Karski later found himself questioning his own memory and
decided a second visit was in order to convince him that what
he had seen was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian
guard, he infiltrated a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed
random brutalities as well as cattle wagon transports lead-
ing Jews to the gas chambers. He successfully made it to
England and was granted an audience with foreign secretary
Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader of the Jewish
Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears. In the
following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was
allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention with
the release of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000,
eight years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust
survivor, committed suicide.
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer - Szurmiej
Collection of Shalom Foundation by Goda Tencer -
Szurmiej
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TREBLINKA JEWISH WARSAW
What to See
A Footbridge of Memory D-2, Intersection of ul.
Chodna and ul. elazna. One of the most recognisable
images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge
constructed over ul. Chodna to connect the large and small
ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaws
newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via
optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of
the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz
Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial
also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can
flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto.
Jewish Historical Institute (ydowski Instytut
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.
Tomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and
culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the
annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent
bookshop, the institutes museum, opened in 1948, features
a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its
users to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country,
an extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto exhibition, religious trea-
sures, an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant
is the collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto
by Heinz Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German
army and whose photographs speak volumes about the era.
Essential visiting. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5z.
Monument to the Ghetto Heroes (Pomnik Bohat-
erw Getta) A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. Designed by Natan
Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza,
Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that
the heaviest fighting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone
cladding on the monument was originally ordered from
Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.
Noyk Synagogue (Synagoga Noykw) E-3, ul.
Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.
jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-
Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to
survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977
and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri
09:00 - 13:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting
during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in
advance. Admission 6z.
Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz
ydowski) D-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22
838 26 22, www.beisolam.jewish.org.pl. A beauti ful
and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally
founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000
tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof,
inventor of the international language Esperanto. Q Open
10:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat. From November open from 10:00 till dusk, Fri 09:00 -
13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8z.
Traces of the Ghetto. Following the Ghetto Uprising the
whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into
the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining
part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative
plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have
decided to honour Warsaws Holocaust history by introducing
a ghetto trail. Developed with the help of the Jewish Histori-
cal Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former
Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance
of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places
of particular interest. Maps of the ghetto are available from
the Jewish Historical Institute for 5zl.
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to
the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak,
slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where
around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound
for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deporta-
tions lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between
Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies
the legendary monument labelled Mia 18 (note: this is not
the address where you can find the monument). Essentially
no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from
where the Ghetto Uprising was directed.
For the overwhelming majority of Warsaws wartime Jews
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north
east of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name
forever etched in mankinds roll of shame.
Getting There
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based
tour companies listed in the Sightseeing section who will be
happy to tailor a visit for you. Alternatively, hire a six person
minibus for 250z - call 604 89 63 97 for further details.
History
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka
II, Treblinka I was originally established in the summer
of 1941 and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp.
Treblinka II, the death camp, opened the following year,
receiving its first human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was
designed for the sole purpose of murder, a function it ful-
filled well. Measuring 400 by 600 metres and surrounded
with barbed wire fences and watchtowers, the camp was
carefully blended into the heavily wooded landscape in an
effort to mask its existence. Consisting of a barracks, an
armoury and storage areas, the camp also had a fenced
off living area housing 1,000 Jews employed to clear bod-
ies, hammer out teeth and shave hair. It was also home to
the reception area, where cattle wagons loaded with Jews
would screech to a halt. Built to resemble a legitimate train
station, it was decorated with clocks, timetables, posters
and even an infirmary replete with a Red Cross banner.
In actual fact the infirmary was no more than a sinister
faade to an execution pit, used to murder prisoners too
weak to march to the gas chambers.
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were
then herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the
shower block. It was here that prisoners were ushered into
gas chambers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide
would then be piped through showerheads, taking as long
as half an hour to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the
height of the killing process up to 20 railway carriages could
be processed within a period of one to two hours. At first
bodies were simply buried in mass graves but by 1943, in
an attempt to conceal all traces of genocide, corpses were
cremated on massive pyres.
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August
2, 1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of
around 70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades,
liberate the other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan
was disrupted when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the
rebels raiding the munitions store. He was killed on the spot,
but the shots alerted the other guards who launched a swift
counter-action. In the brief but fierce gun battle that followed
many buildings were torched, but only a handful of prisoners
succeeded in escaping.
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Himmler
took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard death
camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled, reforested
and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled on the adjacent
farmland. Although it is impossible to place an accurate
figure on the number of people slaughtered, conservative
estimates suggest that anything from 700,000 to 900,000
people were murdered during the camps existence. Of the
number of Jews who passed through its gates it is thought
that fewer than 100 lived to see the end of the war.
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,
apparently unrepentant.
What to See
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is
sure to leave you pondering for some time.
Stock up on literature at the car park hut before making your
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms visi-
tors will find a series of items recovered from the site - torah
scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well as a few
period photographs illustrating life at the camp. However,
the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate work which
really brings the grounds to life - details here include a zoo
built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disney-style stone tower
and the neatly trimmed flower beds past which Jews would
have filed on their way to the gas chambers. Its a fascinating
work, and one which provides plenty of pause for thought.
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the route
trains from Warsaw would have followed before finally termi-
nating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews crammed inside
the cattle wagons this represented the last stop in their
persecution. Then, directly up ahead, comes the climax of
the camp - marking the execution grounds lie hundreds of
jagged memorial stones, each one inscribed with the name
of a lost community. Its among these - to the left of your
approach - youll find the only stone dedicated to a person.
That man is Janusz Korczak, a pedagogue and author who
famously turned down safe passage from the ghetto in order
to stay with the orphaned children entrusted in his care. His
most famous work is the childrens tale King Matt the First
(Krl Maciu Pierwszy), the adventure story of a young king.
As well as telling the story of how the young king deals with the
challenges of power in a bygone age, it is also a thinly veiled
representation of historical events in Poland and describes
a number of the social reforms the young king introduces,
many targeting children and many of which Korczak himself
introduced at his orphanage. While some of the language might
be considered politically incorrect 90 years on it is a fascinating
book and one that children today can still enjoy immensely.
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in
front of it simply stating: Never Again. Its an eerie experi-
ence, and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced into
back breaking work. In the field further on concrete flooring
and some foundations mark the outline of former prisoner
barracks, while a number of crosses denote what was once
the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka is a
must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern his-
tory - absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet even
without these this place has a high impact factor which will
leave visitors silent.
The Museum of the History of Polish Jews
(Muzeum Historii ydw Polskich) A-2, ul.
Anielewicza 6, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.jew-
ishmuseum.org.pl. This place promises to be one of
the citys biggest, best and most anticipated museums
when the permanent exhibits officially open in 2014,
but already you can get inside the new copper and glass
building designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamki
and experience exhibitions, film screenings and installa-
tions dedicated to Jewish history in Poland - consider it a
sneak peek of the soon-to-be-completed museum. It has
been built at vast expense (Polands wealthiest citizen,
oil mogul Jan Kulczyk, contributed 20 million zotys alone)
in what was once the Jewish Ghetto during World War II
and the final product will tell the story of Jews in Poland,
which was once home to the largest Jewish population
in the world. Prior to World War II the country was home
to 3.3 million Jews, and a third of Warsaws population
was Jewish. More than 90 percent perished in the war,
leaving just a small community remaining. The exhibitions
will cover 4,000 square metres across eight different
galleries highlighting 1,000 years of Jewish history, and
more than 120 international scholars were consulted to
create the various historical features (we think its safe
to say that the painted ceiling and timber framed roof of
a 17th-century wooden synagogue that was recreated
with traditional tools and materials will be a standout).
There will also be a centre for genealogy, making the
tracing of relatives easier than ever before. Though the
multimedia Core Exhibition is currently being installed
and wont be available until the museums opening, you
can keep track of the progress online by visiting their
website and Facebook page. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Tue. Admission is as follows: Walk with a guide
and movie 9/5zl; temporary exhibition 9/5 zl; all of the
above 15/7zl.
Museum of Polish Jews
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AZIENKI AZIENKI
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete
and cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the
incomparable azienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glori-
ous, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of
the jewels in Polands crown, which might explain why hal f
of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here.
Fear not though, for so big is azienki that it never gives
the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest
of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner
somewhere.
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska
56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the
Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander
Kwani ewski and Lech Kaczyski opting to li ve in the
Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie) this is
once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president
(now Bronisaw Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly
remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For
the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo
opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is
a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium
and oversized Corinthian columns.
Botanical Garden (Ogrd Botaniczny) G- 4, Al.
Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.
uw.edu.pl. Part of the University of Warsaw the gardens
have the usual collection of greenhouses with exotic, weird
and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings
in the crowds during the summer are the stunning rose gar-
dens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in
full bloom the gardens are the preferred subject matter of the
students from the nearby art college who set up their easels
and paints early and stay until the guards kick them out at
sunset. Indeed, given such cracking scenery it is tempting
to find a bench and do the same. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Closed from November. Admission 6/3z.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik
Chopina i witynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It
depicts Chopin sitting right here in azienki, next to a willow
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and
the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the summer
impressive concerts take place around the statue almost
every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from
Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the
public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood.
Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such
as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water
Tower. None are currently open to the public.
azienki Park (Park azienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.
pl. The name azienki means baths and is derived from the
parks centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on
the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century
as a private bathhouse for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski,
owner of the adjacent Ujazdw Castle and much of the sur-
rounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisaw
August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It
was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and
theatres, azienki offers much to see and to make the best
of it you should plan to spend a full day here.

One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and the
cricket set: azienki, for all its charms, is further evidence of the
fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the
idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at
every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of cricket, softball,
football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the
western world, azienki takes a very stern look but dont touch
attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you dont believe us, try
sitting on a azienki lawn and see what happens. That said, the
park has recently added two zones where youre allowed to have
a picnic. Progress! Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum
owiectwa i Jedziectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleerw 9,
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.
North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting &
Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. Q Open 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 3-8/2-5z. Thu free.
Mylewicki Palace (Paac Mylewicki) H-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of
the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored Mylewicki
Palace. The residence of the kings nephew, Jzef Poniatowski,
the palace is very much as was complete with original murals,
furniture and art. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00.
Admission 6/4z. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70z per group.
Palace on the Island (Paac na Wyspie) G-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 24, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Island is azienkis raison
detre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman
Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a
residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisaw
August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island
that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the
surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The faades are
unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and
are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological
figures. The northern faade is relieved by a striking central por-
tico, while the southern faades deep central recess lies behind
a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all
of the palace can be visited (though currently the first floor is
off limits), including the main reception room, Solomons Hall,
decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a
series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were
executed for King Stanisaw Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello
Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king.
Many of the kings personal rooms are also open to the public,
set in their original context. To get the best out of the palace we
recommend taking one of the excellent guided tours (call ahead
to book such a tour). Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission 20/15z and comes with headphones. Free on Thurs
and daily from 17:00-18:00. Guides 100z per group up to 25
people. To arrange guide call 22 506 01 70.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G- 4. Crossing
the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads
along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also
known as the Theatre on the Island. Unfortunately it is closed
through the end of the year, but you can still marvel at this
building which was built to resemble the amphitheatre at
Herculaneum. When open the theatre hosts productions
throughout the summer, though unless you fancy seeing
Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for foreign visi-
tors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance
sometimes get put on here). It is enough just to admire the
setting before heading for one of the kitsch (one features
an enormous swan) but irresistible gondolas that ferry up
and down the lake during the warmer days (trips end for the
season on November 14). A short trip costs 8/6z per person,
and trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait
for the boat to fill up before the gondolier sets off however.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW)
(Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek Ujazdows-
ki) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.
csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has been on found
on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s),
but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a
baroque style in 1730 for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski
(it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the
Island and gave azienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived
two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII, and
was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating
Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of
azienkis finest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what
the Nazis couldnt do the communists could, and though the
original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in
the 1950s Polands communist authorities decided to tear
down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on
the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s
saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays
host to three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing
the very best of contemporary art inside; find a wild mix of
the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Polands
leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly
necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and
a caf, which has a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw
and what appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. One
not to miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
12/6z, Thu free.
White House & Orangery (Biay Dom i Stara
Pomaraczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22
506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as
grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little
White House a gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for
the kings sisters which displays a fine collection of period
furniture and decorations (note that it closes for the season
Nov. 14 and reopens April 2014). A few steps away is the
impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court
theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used
today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a popular
wedding venue for Warsaws wealthy. Part of the building
houses a museum of sculpture. From here head back past
the White House, resist the temptation to head straight for
the Palace on the Island and instead head south, towards the
New Orangery. Built in cast iron and glass it was designed
by Jzef Orowski and opened in 1861. It is home to the
upmarket Belvedere restaurant, which has been closed for
renovations but thankfully reopens again on April 5. Q Open
09:00 - 16:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00. White House admission
6/4z, Orangery admission 10/5z. Thu free for both. Guided
tours in English 70z per group.
Any number of buses stop in front of the parks three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however
perhaps the easiest way of reaching azienki is to take
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100
metres along Bagatela to the parks southern entrance,
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.
There is also a very good azienki complex map (again,
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast artificial lake in the parks centre, straddled
by the magni ficent Palace on the Island. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each azienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access
to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical
Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket is 25/15z,
two-day tickets 30/20z.
Getting to azienki
Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org
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WILANW WILANW
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war
era and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped
from the map of Europe. But that would be to only under-
stand a small part of this citys and countrys history. The
nations capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th
century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over
200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the
Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so
much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places
to experience what this must have been like more than at
Wilanows palace and gardens.
The Polish Versailles is just one of the many fitting monikers
applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanw, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to
soak up the capitals lavish culture and wish to understand
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanw is more than
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is
one of Polands greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palaces lake. If the weathers good and youve
got time to spare, its easy to spend an entire and thoroughly
rewarding day here.
History
Wilanw gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanw Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th
century as Milanw, the then tiny village changed hands
several times before being bought in the 17th century by
the family of Stanisaw Leszczyski. Leszczyski began
building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the
Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the
region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanw was
bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat
away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built
on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the
name was soon polonised to the one its known by today.
A brick manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two
stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under
the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is
within the central part of the palace where you will see the
living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen
consort, Marie (or Marysieka as she was affectionately
called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the
original part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieskis death in 1696, his widow returned
to France and the palace through their sons became the
property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop
the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the
years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent
owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace
in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal resi-
dence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the
Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became
the property of a succession of the most important Polish
families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis
and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and
developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents
was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century,
at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because
of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collec-
tion of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III
Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words
Cunctis patet ingressus on the palace floor signifying that
the palace and its collection were open to all.
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur-
vived the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Confiscated by Polands post-war Com-
munist government, Wilanw became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during
the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty
revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation
work in the royal apartments and archaeological research
of the area. The gardens have also recently been restored
to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III Sobieskis time.
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The citys
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking
a bus from outside of the station.
By Bus
From Old Town:
From (B-2) Pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180 Mon-Fri.
Journey takes about 30 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyy:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy take buses 116, 180 or
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.
Ujazdowskie.
From the centre:
From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszakowska
take bus 519.
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 519 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-4)
ul. Chaubiskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
By Taxi
At around 45-60z with a recommended company such
as Sawa Taxi (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanw
is something of a false economy, taking more or less
the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the
comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for
ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside the
(A/B-4) main train station.
Getting to Wilanw
The Wilanw Palace Museum (Paac w
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48)
22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first mu-
seum at Wilanw was opened in 1805 by the palaces
owner at the time, Stanisaw Kostka Potocki. The current
museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the
Palaces interior, comes in two parts. Having bought your
ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing on
the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes. It
is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which is
available in a number of languages as well as English, as
there is very little description throughout the museum -
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th
century. Wander through room after room of portraits
of the rich and the powerful including some fascinating
Polish coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits
are your thing you will find this very interesting although
the lack of description and in some cases even the name
of the people portrayed is rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then
downstairs once more where you will find yoursel f in
the residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour,
Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes
uncovered during restoration work after the war, resi-
dential rooms, an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass
grandfather clock and even a private chapel there is a lot
to admire. There are English language cards available in
most rooms which give you a basic description of what
to look for. The central part of the lower floor is the
most impressive. It is here that you will find the private
apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife while the
wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners
of the palace. There are some lavish touches to be seen
throughout the lower level and it may be of interest that
the leadership of communist Poland would often use
the palace to accommodate foreign dignitaries. Jimmy
Carter once stayed here, while one of the beds had to
be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall Charles de
Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a couple
of hours wandering around the palace but be warned that
it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and
tourists at the weekends so theres not really a best time
to visit. QOpen 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15z, Sun free, but
you must obtain an obligatory ticket for 0z (were unfor-
tunately not kidding). Audioguide (available in English,
French, German, Italian, Russian and Spanish) 12z.
The Wilanw Palace Museum
Lake & Island. Theres also a natural lake found behind
the Palace, where seasonal gondolas complete with gondo-
liers and rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the
water that will begin again in May (weather permitting). A
trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconis
strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to
the Parks island reveals a monument to the Polish soldier,
Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the
Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanw fighting
the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809. Q 7/5 z for
a place in a gondola; 20z per boat per half hour.
Park & Gardens. The 45 hectares that make up Wilanw
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular
fancies of its owners. The Parks present form dates from
the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during
the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Profes-
sor Gerard Cioek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of
individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque
garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English
landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese land-
scape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as
a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during
the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North
and Rose gardens and their associated architecture were
recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and
during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological
digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating
from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored
to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski.
Q Open from 09:00 till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 5/3z, Thu free. Note that an obligatory
0z ticket is still required on Thursdays. Really.
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K. Po-
tockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.pos-
termuseum.pl. Housed inside the Palaces former indoor
riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full
of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000
pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be
found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits
of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays
host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a
The Wilanw Palace Museum,
author: Zbigniew Reszka
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
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CHOPIN WILANW
contrast to the historic palace and collection of paintings next
door, this makes for interesting additional place to visit while
in Wilanw. Note that museum will reopen June 5 after it was
closed for a change of exhibitions. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00,
Mon 12:00 - 16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/7z, Mon free.
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)
Wilanw Park. A tomb dedicated to Stanisaw Kostka Potocki
and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son
Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built
between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty
Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. It is
located in the park leading to Wilanw Palace and consists
of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the
crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner. On
the sarcophagus are the figures of the deceased and around
the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22,
tel. (+48) 783 40 77 70, www.galeriasd.pl. This small
collection of modern Polish art close to St. Annes Church
includes paintings and sculptures by many of the countrys
leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impres-
sive pieces of art, most of the work on display is available
for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) ul. Kolegi-
acka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard
in the 16th century and it wasnt replaced with a brick one
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new
church was called St. Annes and was founded by Prince
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.
Czartoryskis grand-daughter, Al eksandra Lubormirska
Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 1799-
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the
Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandras son August and his
wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The
church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous
dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church build-
ing you will find terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Sta-
tions of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under
the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family.
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built
Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusaw Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. QOpen 08:00
- 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Restaurants
As well as a McDonalds, the option of bringing your own
picnic or running the gauntlet of the kitchen in the caf next
to the Palace, you may wish to sample one of the three of
the following restaurants.
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See
Restaurants.
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lvi v) in 1629.
His father was a Polish-
Lithuanian nobleman who
ensured young Jan and
his brother received a first
class education and they
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major European
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the
value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with
distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-
1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Micha
Korybut Winiowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician
and a canny political knack that would result in him being
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
countrys borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieskis greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.
The Turks were to name Sobieski The Lion of Lechistan
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieskis Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was
described as the saviour of European Christendom by
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were cre-
ated baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieskis
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved
to become the bagels we enjoy today.
Jan III Sobieski
2010 saw the country toast Chopi n wi th champagne;
Polands greatest composer, and Warsaws favourite son,
a man whose lent his name to everything from vodka to
airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th
anniversary of Fryderyk Chopins birth and saw the city
celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of
a fabulous new museum.
Chopin - Life & Times
And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats
theres a considerable element of mystery surrounding the
man. Say it very, very quietly, but theres even dispute as
to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was
born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could
be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his
death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to
know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before
burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was
the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was
the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has
been lost to time.
One thing we can be certain of, and thats his birthplace -
the town of elazowa Wola fifty kilometres west of Warsaw.
However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family
moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his father, a man whod
fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as
a French tutor.
By all accounts he was a prodigy from the offing. The
young Frederic started learning piano at the age of four,
and by the age of eight had already performed at what
is now the Presidential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious
tal ents applications for a state grant were repeatedl y
refused. Nevertheless, his childhood was happy, and the
gingerbread eating Frederic received gushing reviews in
local columns and press.
A diligent student he was educated at home for the first
13 years, before attending Warsaws Lyceum, and then
the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom
under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who
was wowed by Chopins musical mastery. He graduated from
the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet
Konstancha Gadkowska, and his unrequited love for her
inspired many of his early compositions.
Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign
debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the
premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised
as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of
illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A
keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in
1826 during which he visited Dresden, Krakw, Prague and
numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play
in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in
a Wola tavern.
Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste
of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in re-
bellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining
the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to
write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart
diary record his torment: Oh God, do you exist? Or are you
yoursel f a Muscovite! Choosing to stay in exile Chopin
settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish
migrs, as well as upcoming composers and high society.
His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next
to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profile Poles like the
uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and bard Adam
Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural charms at-
tracted a string of adoring females.
Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin
enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series
of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed
him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a
trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets
reported him dead.
He wasnt, and the defining point of his life was to occur two
years later when he met the controversial author George
Sand (yes, thats a woman). His first impression is recorded
as being surprisingly acid: what an unpleasant woman, he is
known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17
year old Polish girl, how Chopins life would have evolved if he
had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he
embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic scarlet
woman, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by
a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca.
Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent
cough, the faltering affair span out of control when Sand, a
loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Flo-
riani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, asexual an-
tihero is commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin.
Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly
miserable and secluded life. He finally passed away in his
Paris apartment aged just 39 - though just like his birth, his
death is equally contentious; some believe tuberculosis as
the cause of death, others a malady such as emphysema
or cystic fibrosis. If you believe the stories he carried a lock
of Sands hair till the day he died (though by the same token
he is also alleged to have carried an urn of Polish soil). Buried
in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his
body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive)
and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaws Koci
witego Krzya. His funeral was as weird as his life, delayed
for two weeks while church authorities debated whether to
grant his wish and allow Mozarts Requiem to be sung at his
funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female
singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his
music and legend survive to this day.
106 107
Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
CHOPIN CHOPIN
What to See
The Chopin Family Drawing Room C-3, ul. Kra-
kowskie Przedmiecie 5, tel. (+48) 22 320 02 75,
www.chopin.museum. The young Chopin hopped around
three separate residences in Warsaw, though only one
will be of use to visitors. Saski Palace - where his father
worked as a tutor - was in the process of being rebuilt (work
now halted and temporarily abandoned), while Kazimier-
zowski Palace is closed off to visitors as part of Warsaw
University - a plaque on the right wing commemorates his
fleeting presence. Instead pay a visit to Krasiski Palace
(formerly Czapski Palace) on Krakowskie Przedmiecie,
a place Chopin himsel f described as his refuge. Recon-
structed in 1960 and opened to the public in 1969 none
of the original furnishings survived the war, though the
period furniture on display has been faithfully assembled
to recreate his drawing room as seen in an Antoni Kolberg
painting made in 1832. Chopin lived and entertained here
from 1827 until his last day in Poland, and today some of
the antiques on display include a writing desk owned by his
elder sister and a pianoforte dating from 1830, as well as
paintings of his mother, sister and tutor. Another pianoforte
on show was once allegedly used by Franz Liszt. Thats not
the only famous connection - poet Cyprian Norwid attended
school in this building. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
3/2z, Wed free.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C- 3,
ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 826
89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinol ogist can l eave
Warsaw wi thout first visi ting the final resting place of
his heart (the rest of him being in Paris famous Pre
Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his
heart was seal ed in an urn and then placed behind a
tabl et bearing his likeness speciall y carved by Leonardo
Marconi. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No
visi ting during mass pl ease.
azienki Park. Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero fre-
quently gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul.
Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian
aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsars brother, Great
Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the
commander-in-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by
Chopins skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be
played during military parades.
El sewhere i n azi enki don t dare mi ss a vi si t to the art
nouveau Chopi n Monument (G-4) next to the Botani cal
Garden. Set i n the mi dst of a rose garden i t was erected
i n 1926, the work of accl ai med scul ptor Wacaw Szy-
mankowski. As part of the Nazi brutal i zati on of Warsaw
i t was dynami ted by German busybodi es on May 31,
1940. The fol l owi ng day an unknown patri ot had pl aced
a pl acard on the smoul deri ng rui n decl ari ng: I don t
know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don t
pl ay the funeral march for your l eader. A pl aster-cast
of the ori gi nal model al l owed the statue to be rebui l t
and a fai thful reconstructi on was unvei l ed i n 1958. An
i denti cal repl i ca can be found at Japans Hamamatsu
Academy of Musi c.
Evangelical Augsburg Church of the Holy Trinity
(Koci w. Trjcy) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 1, tel.
(+48) 22 556 46 60, www.trojca.waw.pl. In 1825 Chopin
once more performed for the Russians, this time for the Tsar
himself who in return presented Chopin with a diamond ring.
Q Open by prior arrangement.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum (Muzeum Fryderyka
Chopina) C-3, ul. Oklnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51,
www.chopin.museum. The most anticipated museum
opening in Poland since the 2004 launch of the Uprising
Museum, the Fryderyk Chopin Museum is a jaw-dropping
venue if youve had previous experience of Polish museums.
Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum
officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the
200th anniversary of one of Polands most famous sons.
Over 81 million zlotys were siphoned from council coffers
to see this project realized, and the result is an amazing
space designed by Grzegory and Partnerzy and fitted out
by Migliore&Servetto of Milan. Taking up four floors the
museum features an interactive style and shares in the
life of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no
detail out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair,
his school exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch
presented to the ten year old Frederic by an admiring
Italian singer and the passport he used to enter England.
So comprehensive is the collection it even features the
last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from
his deathbed. Also, of course, are several paintings and
sculptures (including his death mask), and a recreation
of his Paris drawing room and even an intriguing section
on the women who made the man. And while theres one
small room of the museum aimed at children, the other
95 percent of this epic exhibition will probably have them
whining to leave (though weekend workshops directed at
kids may help a little bit).
However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the
way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of
e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen op-
tions, the museum allows visitors to adapt their trip to their
particular circumstances. Put simply those entering can
choose exactly what they want to see, and how much they
want to know about it. Even better are the micro-chipped
tickets that can be swiped along different interactive ex-
hibits to allow the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a
film. One area that was particularly popular is the musical
Twister game, which had normally stoic middle-aged tour-
ists leaping from spot to spot as music played. Mr Chopin,
welcome to the 21st century.
As for the building, thats worth getting to know as well.
Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the
museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was
originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past
its been home to everything from a Napoleonic military
hospital to the riotous Morgans Pub, and its catacombs
are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a
princess charmed by the devil before being transformed
into a beaked amphibian. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
22/13z, family ticket 62z, Tue free. Number of visitors is
restricted, so it is advisable to reserve tickets in advance
by email or phone.
Fryderyk Chopin Museum
Church of the Nuns of the Visitation C- 3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65
85, www.wizytki.waw.pl. Visit the church that Chopin
attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty.
Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man
himself played during a part time stint as a school organist.
A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: In honour
of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as
a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 16:30, Sun
13:15 - 16:30. No visiting during mass please.
Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina) G-4, azienki
Park. Dont dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin
Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the
midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of
acclaimed sculptor Wacaw Szymankowski. As part of the
Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German
busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown
patriot had placed a placard on the smoldering ruin declar-
ing: I dont know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I
dont play the funeral march for your leader. A plaster-cast
of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a
reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.
Chopin Benches. The good city of Warsaw has devised
one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and thats by
way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at
key sites connected with his li fe. Made of cast iron and
polished black stone these benches, designed by Professor
Jerzy Porebski, feature a button which when pressed have
been designed to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin.
They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief
explanations in Polish and English as to the sites relevance to
Chopin. However, thats not all. These benches see Chopin go
techno: each one comes inscribed with a special code - take
a pic on your phone, then send it to the instructed number
and youll be rewarded to free access to Chopin melodies,
facts, figures and photographs.
And the Rest
It didnt have a Starbucks and it didnt have Coffeeheaven,
but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving caf
culture. This wasnt lost on Chopin who would frequent now
defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on
ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka,
named after its proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a
particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He
was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina
Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well
as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska.
Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trbacka
formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and its here that Cho-
pin forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for
what would prove to be his last time. Finally theres Powzki
Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Jzef Elsner,
his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1.
Restaurants
Przepis na Kompot elazowa Wola 14, tel. (+48) 46
863 21 68, www.przepisnakompot.pl. Once home to
famed chef Magda Gesslers Polka, this restaurant is now
an independent operation set in a modern manor house
across from Chopins birthplace. It doesnt appear much
has changed and the setting is beautiful, featuring a summer
terrace and grill for the warmer months. The food is Polish
with an emphasis on locally grown fruits and vegetables.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (27-42z). PTAUGBSW
elazowa Wola - Birthplace elazowa Wola 15,
tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin.museum. True
enthusiasts are going to want to make the pilgrimage to
his place of birth, and a worthwhile trip it most certainly is.
The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but
even so elazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the
family. Close friends with the neighbouring Skarbek family
the Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their
holidays, and we know for fact the composer spent Christ-
mas here in 1825 and New Year in 1826. The ZW manor
house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been
built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the
ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam
Towiaski, who resided there between 1859 and 1878,
was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a
place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex
to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the
project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work
was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by
a lack of funds these efforts didnt get much further than
the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple
of decades work didnt so much stall as die.
Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the
related surge in national pride and patriotism saw new
efforts to commemorate Chopins legacy. The building
was granted historic status and in 1928 the property
was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society.
Restoration on the buildings was initiated in 1930, as
were plans to landscape the gardens, and buoyed by do-
nations the curators started amassing a stack of Chopin
memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck
in the familiar form of the German army: the outbreak
of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the
building was looted and damaged.
By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of
the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in a
sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore
it elazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the
centenary of his death in 1949.
Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the
original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the
house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments
and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit
of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Displays on view include
an early 19th century produced by Leszczyski of Warsaw,
portraits of Chopin and 19th century furniture in the Bierder-
mier style. However, the bit that most will find themselves
drawn to is the mothers room, the actual scene of Chopins
birth. Now a calm white room adorned with a decorative
bouquet this has become a real point of pilgrimage with a
reverential silence observed by all who visit.
Getting There:
elazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be
reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszakowska
(next to Rossman) courtesy of Motobus. Be careful
as some of these buses stop at Sochaczew and not
elazowa Wola. There is also this Plan B: take a train to
Sochaczew ( journey time 40 minutes, tickets 14.90z -
19z depending on the kind of train you take) and from
there jump on bus number 6 which terminates at Mokas
after stopping at elazowa Wola. This little adventure
should take a further twenty minutes.Q 09:00 - 17:00.
Museum closed Mon (park open). Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 7/4z for the park,
23/14z for park and museum. Tue free.
elazowa Wola
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October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of
experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases
physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the
secrets of the world around us.
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,
especially if you are (or are with) a child. Theres a genuine
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of
your own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others
photographed that day), discover who or what is living next
to us in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or -
and this was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own
game by out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a
race at the arena. Theres plenty to do and you can easily
spend a whole morning or afternoon there trying everything,
particularly if you stumble on a day free of the ever-present
school groups.
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors
over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, econom-
ics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits - we
swear weve never seen teens more effusive and excited
as they tried to identify a monkeys emotions, or finish lyrics
to popular songs. Theres also four interactive labs dealing
with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer
supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are
in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with
installations lining the Wisa.
The attached Heavens of Copernicus planetarium adds
yet another option for visiting science buffs as it immerses
attendees in 20 million stars thanks to a giant spherical
screen that surrounds the 137 seats on all sides. The seven
different 40-minute films (which require headsets for English)
108
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 20,
tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Q
Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the Plan-
etarium has different opening hours.Open 09:30 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admis-
sion 25/16z, family ticket 66z. (2adults+2children). Use
of the labs, which are only available to individuals on the
weekends, costs an additional 9z. Note that you must
buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium. Admission
18-23z/13-18z, family ticket 49-64z.
Getting In
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
While the worlds attention was drawn towards the highly
visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaws amazing
new stadium on the right bank of the Wisa, work was also
being carried out across the water on a building that has
since outshined the stadium now that the Euro 2012 hoopla
has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just about),
the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - which stands almost
directly opposite the stadium along the river - has established
itself as one of Warsaws top tourist attractions.
Getting There
The centre can be found in the shadow of the witokrzyski
Bridge on the banks of the Wisa River. A journey to the CSC
from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes.
Buses 105, 118 and 128 will drop you at the Biblioteka Uni-
wersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the corner
to the unmissable building. Buses 102, 162 and 185 will
drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC clearly in
sight. Alternatively visit the About us section of the English
language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get
directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address.
Introduction
A rare example of European Union funding being used in a
genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not least
(in the words of Polands Education Minister shortly before
the opening) an attempt to restate the case for science and
research in what can still be an intensely and deeply religious
country. In that sense, giving t he centre the name of the man
who did so much to end the churchs monopoly of education
in the first place is little short of a masterstroke.
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of
the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April
2010 the presidents political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lob-
bied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request
was politely, respectfully, refused.
Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - that
greets visitors at the 93 million (half of which came from
the EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC
today, its a little ironic that the buildings origins are slightly
more humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape
at the informal Science Picnics - outdoor science, culture
and art events aimed at the general public that have been
held in Warsaws Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The
idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio,
strangel y enough) was to bring popular science to the
masses through hands-on experiments. Each year, as the
numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members
of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that
there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, while
the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events
suggested that there was an untapped market in the region
for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was
the natural next step, though it took a number of years to
secure the site and funding.
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no
surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened
in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The
opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by
Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little under-
whelming (and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors
to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an
annoyingly large number of this exhibit is temporarily out of
order signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sec-
tions of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that
this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe,
and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction.
Visiting Today
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,
you will be met by the centres very own Robothespian. A fully
programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was de-
veloped in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks,
interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him
to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the
adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you
queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set
of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold
of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the
building throughout the day, but they will also become your
ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which
allow you to record your results (which are stored and then
emailed to you afterwards).
Passing through the barriers, the first display you come
to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and
forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a
bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of
all, register your card with your name and email address at
one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you prog-
ress through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experi-
ments to visit, spread over two floors and six areas: Roots of
Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation
(for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the
Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs.
are geared towards different age ranges and interests - tots
will delight in the Sesame Street show One World, One Sky
while teens will prefer the more mysterious Black Holes:
Journey into the Unknown. Before each film is a 20-minute
live show (which is unfortunately only in Polish, though still
interesting due to the impressive venue) about the skies
over Warsaw that changes with the seasons .School groups
dominate the Planetariums seats during daytime hours, and
booking tickets in advance is highly recommended - when
we dropped in only one of the eight daily shows had avail-
able space.
Its easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of
your time and will impress you with its design and range of ex-
periments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed
Science Store (potentially the best spot for childrens gifts
in Warsaw) and its a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen,
very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting
happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there
is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show,
which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section.
The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad
story about a robot that wants to become human in order
to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly
out of reach for young children. The various accents can also
be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery)
and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that
move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable.
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor
flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen
in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard
to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction
being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which
ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the
impossible can become possible.
110
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
d may l ook l i ke i ts pro-
nounced Lodz, but it most cer-
tainly isnt. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of
age d is one of the young-
est cities in the country, and a
direct product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while d can-
not boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Krakw a scratch
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the
countries finest after-dark venues youll find them all
inside our 13th issue of d In Your Pocket; Polands
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
d In Your Pocket
Getting to d
Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac-
cessed by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be
within an hours reach of Warsaw, but for the time being
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they
continue to work on the new high speed link. If youre travelling
from the capital youll need to book a ticket running to d
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and youll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travel-
lers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some Basics
d first appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of odzia and remained little more than a rural back-
water for the following centuries, with a population numbering
just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern d as we know it can be traced to 1820,
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisaw Staszic be-
gan a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the
city, though the mainstay of the towns population remained
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades d
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made
and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula-
tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the towns Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war d.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much
of Warsaw in ruins, d was used as Polands temporary
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of
Warsaw also saw many of Polands eminent artists and
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city
was d, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Polands leading film school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today d is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europes
l ongest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. Youll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to d, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
More than a shopping centre? In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldnt be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m
2

Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today i s the resul t of Pol ands l argest
renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaws
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to
be believed. Enter through the Poznaski gate, where workers
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and
youll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m
2
Rynek
(main square). Featuring Europes longest fountain the square
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.
Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps

May - August 2013

(w tym 8% VAT) lodz.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1896-1169
Pola Negri
The interesting life
of Polands most
glamourous film star
OFF Piotrkowska
An OFF-beat must-see
in Lodz

The history behind the

name, and just how to
pronounce it
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October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
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Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
LEISURE
com. Third floor of Zote Tarasy, with facilties including
gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30,
Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Golf
First Warsaw Golf and Country Club ul. Golfowa
44, Jabonna, tel. (+48) 22 782 45 55, www.firstwar-
sawgolf.com. Enjoy a year-round driving range with 45
balls costing 25z, and an 18-hole golf course for 125-250z
(price depending on the day). Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 07:00 - 19:00.
Golf Park Driving Range ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. For
25z you get 50 balls for use on the driving range. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00.
Golf Park Jzefw ul. Telimeny 1, Jzefw, tel.
(+48) 22 778 30 90, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Opened
in 2007 Gol f Swing features a six hole course, flood lit
driving range, gol f classes and club rental. The driving
range provides 45 balls for 20zl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 22:00.
Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw), tel. (+48)
22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. A driving range
and six-hole course for 30zl per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Horse Riding
Anka Rancho Horse Riding ul. Wawrzyniecka 25,
Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30 48 61, www.ankarancho.
pl. Q Open Sat, Sun only 09:00 - 13:00, 15:00-19:00 .
Phone reservation two days in advance. One hour horse
riding 50z.
Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilcze-
niec) ul. Kocielna Droga 10, omianki, tel. (+48) 22
751 97 77, www.wilczeniec.pl. English speaking instruc-
tion also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
60z/45 minutes of riding in a closed corral with assistance,
40z/45 minutes riding outside the corral on your own.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
Helicopter.pl ul. Ksiycowa 3 (Bielany), Bldg #15,
tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl. See Warsaw
from above in a Eurocopter courtesy of Helicopter.pl. Flights
depart from Bemowo and last 30 minutes, flying over the
Wisa and National Stadium.
Zoo C-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers
an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visi-
tors each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion
cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds
and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent
years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions
you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major
Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was
bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the
animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich,
eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan
abiski, became something of a hero; wounded during
the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped save countless lives
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.
The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open from 09:00
till dusk. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
20/15z. Children under 3 years free.
LEISURE
Racquet Sports
City Sports Club ul. Domaniewska 41a, tel. (+48)
695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Located on ul.
Domaniewska, they offer tennis courts (60-100z/per hour),
lessons with an English-speaking instructor (60-180z/per
hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social
lessons for expats. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.
pl. Nine air-conditioned courts. A second location at Mal-
borska 51-53 features six courts and the same prices for
admission. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission 45-65z.
Spa & Beauty
Alchemy Day Spa G-5, ul. Klonowa 20/1, tel. (+48)
22 849 32 56, www.dayspa.pl. Pamper yourself at one of
Warsaws most established day spas. Alchemy offers a full
range of beauty treatments and relaxation therapies using
some of the finest natural products from around the globe.
If the sterile, hospital-like look of many modern spas isnt
your thing then this is the perfect place for you. The location
itself, a 1920s town house apartment with a great sense
of history, makes you feel relaxed and at home the moment
you set foot in the door. Forget all the madness going on
outside and just let the goodness wash over you! QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Franck Provost C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 58a, tel. (+48)
22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. French-trained
English-speaking stylists offering unisex hair treatment
and styling from 100z to 350z. Manicure and pedicure
also available as well as cosmetic products by LOreal
and Kerastase. Also at ul. Puawska 25a (G-5), which has
expanded spa servi ces like massage and mi croderm-
abrasion. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Swimming
Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wsplna 4 (Wesoa), tel.
(+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Includes a
junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, fitness centre. Length
25m, depth 1.1-1.8m. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 22:00. 12-18z per hour. All day tickets 30-32z.
Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotw), tel. (+48)
22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com.pl. Heres the best
pool of the lot with facilities including saunas, steam rooms,
snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other
recreational facilities. Prices range from 20-26z/12-20z
per hour, with a reduced ticket to the spa available Mon-Fri
until 17:00 for 20zl. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 22:00. (Spa open 11:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00.
Admission 27-42/20z)
Hulakula Bowling Al-
ley C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 552 74 00,
www.hul akul a.com.pl .
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed
12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 20-120z per hour.
Shoes included.
Sungate Beauty & Spa B-3, Pl.
Powstacw Warszawy 2, tel. (+48)
517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.pl.
The menu of services available at Sun-
gate is staggering: from facials and every
imaginable type of massage (shea butter
to aromatherapy) to waxing and nailcare
they have you covered from head to foot.
Package for couples, women and just regular folks who
like to indulge are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
b e a u t y & s p a
Bike Rental
Veturilo en.veturilo.waw.pl. Warsaw has cemented its
big-city credentials by introducing a city-wide bike rental
fleet, and the numbers are impressive. With 160 stations
spread throughout Warsaw rdmiecie, Bielany Targwek,
oliborz, Ochota, Praga Pnoc, Wochy, Bemowo, Wola,
Wilanow, and Ursynow and offering 2,500 bikes theres no
question youll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the
citys streets. And why not try one yourself? The system is
ridiculously easy: set up an account online (en.veturilo.waw.
pl is the English-language site) and pay the initial 10z fee.
Once youre registered you can visit any of the stations and
select your ride, which has an individualized code. Simply dial
the enter your phone number, your PIN and the bikes code,
and youll receive the number to unlock the bicycle from the
stand. Then youre off! The first 20 minutes are free, and
from there you pay 1z for 21-60 minutes, 3z for the second
hour, 5z for the third, and 7z for each hour after that up to
12 hours. Theres a 272z fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a
whopping 1,770z cost for replacing a lost or damaged bike
so behave yourself. When you return the bike, which can be
done at any of the stations, you make another phone call
confirming the return and youre finished.
Wygodny Rower C-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 4, tel. (+48)
888 94 99 49, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Choose from two
different styles of bicycles for cruising around the city at this
cafe/boutique/bike shop. A full day will cost 40z, 24 hours is
50z. Both require a returnable deposit of 200zl or 50 euros.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej
1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling.
pl. Two floors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150z per
lane per hour, shoes and instructor included. QOpen 16:00
- 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
Entertainment Centres
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Uni-
versity Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.
com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall,
climbing wall and indoor playground for children. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri
12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Spin City ul. Powstacw lskich 126A (Cinema
City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.
pl. Admission for bowling is 40-99z per hour. Features a
bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video
games area. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 03:00.
Fitness & Gyms
Pure Health and Fitness A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.
115
SHOPPING
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
114
SHOPPING
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed in amber? A
glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets World of Amber
also has the usual beads, rings, neck-breaking pendants and
bracelets that are a must-have souvenir. The shop has a large
number of knowledgeable staff, which means youre never
left lingering over a glass case waiting in vain for service.
Which we like even more than the chess set made entirely of
amber. We swear. Also at (B-2) ul. witojaska 14, (B-2) ul.
Piwna 12/14 and (B-2) ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Antiques & Art Galleries
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually
enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch
along Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will
tell you the real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the
excellent Bazar Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling
and bargaining are considered de rigeur. For full details on
that check Markets. If youre planning on taking an artwork
out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you
will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops
will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but
do check beforehand.
Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance youll
spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias
and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside
Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through.
Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna
and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those
intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps
that are also for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Alcohol
Of course you didnt come to Poland just for the booze, but while
youre here itd be rude not to check out what the country has to
offer. Primarily that means vodka, with the two most highly regarded
clear Polish vodkas being Belvedere and Chopin. Find them in any
alcohol store. Others to watch for include ubrwka - thats the one
with the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey vodka,
and winiwka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually consumed after
meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique elixir characterised by
the 22 karat gold flakes floating in it. Bottle shops are numerous
in Poland, as common as cabbage, though the ones we list come
guaranteed to have no tramps or underage teens.
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P E-3, ul. Paska 81/83,
tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and
assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Amber & Jewellery
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and cov-
eted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing
baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint
in the doghouse. The best place to begin your search is the
Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of amber baubles.
Art Gallery Amber Silver Line B-1, ul. Rynek Starego
Miasta 9/11/13. The name says silver, but the shop itself
screams amber. Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and
top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other
precious stones. Also at ul. Nowy wiat 59 (C-3). QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Galeria Artystycznego Rzemiosa B-2, ul. witojaska
23/25, tel. (+48) 22 831 94 23, www.galeria-czernicki.
pl. Old Town store filled with all measure of amber options as
well as glassware, all housed immaculately behind glass cases.
One of the only shops where prices are clearly displayed on all
of the pieces, which gets our thumbs up. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Bursztynek B-1, ul. Duga 8/14 lok.70, tel.
(+48) 508 51 16 80, www.bursztynek.co. The Caka family
have been in the amber business for two generations and their
love of this gift of the Baltic coast makes Galeria Bursztynek the
store to visit for stunning jewellery and artefacts, all produced in
their own workshop. Not content with just selling you a unique
souvenir from your trip to Warsaw they are also keen to educate
customers about the history of amber, the craftsmanship
involved in working the resin and its many uses throughout the
ages. In order to do this, they have turned part of their glamorous
Old Town emporium into a permanent and fascinating museum
display. Also at ul. Zamoyskiego 45a/2 (H-1). Q Open 10:00 -
20:00. From November open 10:00 - 18:00.
Kelly Melu B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. (+48) 22
827 33 74, www.kellymelu.pl. The number of young men
jostling to make purchases for their sweethearts should
tell you all you need to know about Kelly Melu jewellery: its
popular, its stylish and its affordable. The brightly-coloured
bracelets with charms appear to be the current must-have.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Mokobelle G-3, ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance at Mokotowska
54), tel. (+48) 607 07 37 15, www.mokobelle.pl. Mod-
ern jewellery from Polish and other European designers and
friendly staff thats eager to let you try it on. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Pandora C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 37, tel. (+48) 22 826 30
45, www.pandora.net. This exclusive Danish brand offers
high-quality silver, gold, crystal and gem jewellery for women.
Of note is their popular pendant bracelet which allows cus-
tomers to personalise their wrist accessory by choosing from
Pandoras large collection of original pendants, and change
them according to their mood. Also in Zote Tarasy (ul. Zota
59, A-4, open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00), Klif ( ul. Oko-
powa 58/72, D-1, open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00),
Arkadia (Al. Jana Pawa II 82, D-1, open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00), Blue City (Al. Jerozolimskie 179, D-4, open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00) and Galeria Mokotw (ul.
Wooska 12, E-7, same hours as Arkadia). QOpen 10:00 -
21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Silver Line C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 59. The name says silver,
but the shop itself screams amber. Choose from pieces by
Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery
made with other precious stones. Also in the Old Town at ul.
Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13 (B-1). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
W.Kruk C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661
98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and
watches from various international brand names including
Emporio Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix,
Longines, Anne Klein. Watches only available at these loca-
tions: (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy 8 and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4).
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
World of Amber B-2, ul. witojaska 11, tel. (+48)
22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in ad-
vertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world filled
with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted pirate ship
Its not Dubai, its not Hong
Kong, its not Milan and its
not London. Warsaw has a
long way to go before its
regarded as a shoppi ng
mecca, but the city is see-
ing true growth in the array
of shops available and the
number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts.
Whether its western style malls, designer boutiques,
dusty family stores or antique markets a day spent
shopping can result in both bargains and treasures,
and theres presents to be had for everyone on your list
(including yourself).
Wife or girlfriend
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the
best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin,
and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the
appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish
jeweller W. Kruk.
Husband or boyfriend
One word: vodka. Another word: lard. Take home Polands
famous nectar and a container of smalec (spreadable
lard) and youll make any man happy. Krakowski Kre-
dens carries tubs of the greasy stuff, while youll find
popular Polish vodka brands like ubrwka and Belvedere
in any alcohol shop.
Brother
What brother coul dn t use a Prussian hel met or a
bobblehead of a long-deceased dictator? Check out
our markets section, where places like Kolo Bazar and
Targowisko Bakalarska promise an array of strange
junk and treasures that brothers will appreciate for their
sheer quirk.
Sister
For high-end fashion pieces to style out sister, the dom
handlowy VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci
and Alexander McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store
is one of our fashion favourites.
Child
If youre looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red
Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish
garb, look no further than Cepelia. For something on the
educational end of the spectrum we recommend you raid
the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre;
games, experiments and books for all ages await.
Mom
Give mom some monk-like zen with soaps and lotions
from Produkty Benedyktyskie, which carries a variety
of products created by the brothers at Tyniec Abbey in
Krakow. If she skews towards sweets then snag a box
Polish truffles at Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel.
Dad
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his
life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed
with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best
for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing
maps from last century.
Shopping at a Glance
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Warsaw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com
Desa Modern H-5, ul. Bartycka 116, tel. (+48) 795
12 27 01, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy
of some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art
circles. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galeria aBo Art B-1, ul. Rynek Nowego Miasta 17,
tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.aboart.eu. Miniscule art
gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours of
Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks, glassware and
jewellery all jumbled together for your perusal. A unique local
offering. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lapidarium B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48)
509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. We can (and probably
have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered
rooms filled with all manner of junk - - and we say that
with love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters,
busts of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm
equipment fights for your attention here. Give yourself time
to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase.
How to spot this place? Look for the antique bicycle and
spindle sitting outside the entrance. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 13:00 - 19:00.
Books, Music & Films
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions
of flights that land each morning at Okcie most English
language dailys dont hit the shops until the afternoon,
sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive
source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though Traf-
fic and Relay (main hall of central train station) also stock a
smattering of titles. Also try the newsagents found in five star
hotels. As far as magazines are concerned, EMPiK blows the
competition out of the water, though you can expect to pay
a hefty mark-up for your mag of choice. For books check out
one of the American Bookstores scattered around the city.
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 451
04 81, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international
magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games
and movies. Theres also an EMPiK megastore nearby at
ul. Marszakowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Traffic Club C- 4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692
14 20, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language
press. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Fashion & Accessories
The stylish denizens of Warsaws streets are an easy
indicator that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot
out anything less than your best and it wont go unnoticed,
we promise you. With the opening of dom handlowy VITKAC
the city has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and
Lanvin, and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for
the latest designer offerings. Check out high quality Polish
brands like Reserved, Vistula and Tatuum, all of which youll
undoubtedly find in Warsaws shopping centres like Zlote
Tarasy and Arkadia.
Goshico F-4, ul. Koszykowa 51a lok.37, tel. (+48) 501
80 88 78, www.goshico.com. We can guarantee that you
wont have to walk very far before spotting one of Goshicos
handmade, felt and traditional folk design inspired embroi-
dered bags on the arm of some trend-setting local. Due to
the companys phenomenal success the range continues
to expand and now includes the likes of iPad/phone cases,
Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99,
www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique featur-
ing collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian
Louboutin, Balmain, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Moncler
Gamme Rouge, Simonetta Ravizza, Tods and Ralph Lauren.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 F- 4, ul. Hoa 1, tel. (+48)
22 622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label -
conscious shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like
Ralph Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tory Burch
and TODs that are spread across mens and womens
apparel and accessories. Displays of pristinel y-fol ded
sweaters are immaculate, and the staff is eager to search
for any size - and have an encyclopaedic knowledge of which
celebrities are sporting which style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Polemika G-3, ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. (+48) 696 04
95 68. With no sign out front at this new location theres
a good chance youll trot right past Odzieowe Pole and not
realise what youre missing. Dont. Modern city fashion calls
this funky boutique home, with lots of Polish designers avail-
able. Find everything from work attire to cocktail dresses on
offer, including a stylish selection of accessories. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Secret Life (of things) B-3, ul. Dbrowskiego 15 A,
tel. (+48) 600 48 65 82, www.secretlife.pl. Its hard
to know how to classify Secret Life since their bright, airy
shop is home to so many different things: theres a case of
unique jewellery, a room devoted to clothes and shoes, a
pile of handbags, and then a scattering of funky home decor
items and knick-knacks that demand your attention. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
laptop bags and small accessories. Products are available
from numerous outlets around Warsaw but visit the city
centre showroom to view the whole range or discuss having
a custom made item designed especially for you. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Mon, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 22
310 73 13, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Con-
cept Stores are one of the leading designer brand retailers in
Poland and Warsaws version is now housed at the high-end
dom mody VITKAC shopping centre, where it rubs shoulders
with labels like Balenciaga, Gucci and Alexander McQueen.
Which should tell you straight away that Likus is no slouch
when it comes to fashion: the new store is well stocked with
all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and Yves Saint Laurent you could
ask for. The decor of washed grey walls and shelves of old
books - and dont miss the antler chandelier near the dress-
ing rooms - make it look like the most stylish library on earth.
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase value with VAT per Tax Free
Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free
Form, have it stamped when leaving
the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim
your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
2 STAMP IT
3 REFUND
1 GET IT
Once youve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Free Form when youre paying for it.
Tax Free Shopping



For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: [email protected]
www.global-blue.com
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
When youre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If
youre travelling on to another EU country, get
the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final
point of departure from the EU.
Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and
passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer
Services or one of our partner refund points and
theyll issue your refund immediately.
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop.
While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away
at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish
vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with
juice (regarded as highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas
are embraced by both sexes and imbibed copiously. Most
bartenders should be able to provide you with a couple
of these Polish specialities
Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a
sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of herbs.
Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any
easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular per-
sonal defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices
added. You will often see it set on fire with coffee beans
floating in it. Beware
Mead This drink preceded beers arrival in Poland and
has remained a favourite since. Distilled from honey, the
drink comes in three strengths with Poltorak (the kings
preference) being the strongest.
Nalewka Barrel aged vodka flavoured with fruits, herbs
and spices. A national speciality, most Polish drinkers
will push this on you at some point, and it makes a nice
change from downing the straight stuff.
Wcieky Pies Translated as Mad Dog, this is a
shot made up of vodka, raspberry syrup, Tabasco and
favoured by students and all those wishing to go home
on all fours.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry
flavoured variety. Youll see students and pensioners
alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless
tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement court-
yards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut
the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Zubrowka One of Polands most popular overseas
vodka exports, ubrwka has been produced in Eastern
Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of
grass speci fic to the primeval Biaowiea Forest that
straddles the border (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has
been described as floral or having traces of almond or
vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, ubrwka is
most commonly combined with apple juice a refreshing
concoction called a tatanka.
Polish Alcohol
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Arkadi a D- 1, Al .
Jana Pawa II 82, tel.
(+48) 22 323 67 67,
www.arkadia.com.
pl. If you cant find it in
Arkadia, you probably
never will. Covering a
total area of 287 000
m2 Arkadia stands out
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive
Warsaw, so its little wonder we know of people who
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approxi-
mately 45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &
Spencers food department in the country. If you cant find
what youre after in there then head to Kuchnie wiata.
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY Outlet Pl. Czer-
wca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel.
(+48) 22 478 22 70, www.
factory.pl. This outlet centre
is preoccupied with fashion,
offering top brand names at
30-70% discounts over other
shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands
include Pepe Jeans, Wrangler, Wittchen and more. One of
the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can access it by
taking the SKM train from rdmiecie and getting off at
SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny
and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Wlochy. Your
final destination will be Ursus-Ratusz. Also at ul. Annopol
2 (Biaoka). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
dom handlowy VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, www.
vitkac.com. The giant glowing Gucci sign will be your
first hint that this isnt your typical shopping centre, and
the heavy security is the second. Shoppers can find the
popular Likus Concept Store on the main level of the
sprawling structure while abels like Givenchy, Armani,
Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen, Gucci and Yves Saint
Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels of
shopping space, with roughly three employees available
for every browsing customer. The atmosphere is more
museum than mall, but if youre looking to splurge on
designer names then this is your headquarters. If max-
ing out your credit card works up an appetite be sure to
head to Restauracja Concept 13, which offers sweeping
city views in a modern, open-concept space. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Shopping Malls
Z ote Tarasy A- 4, ul .
Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.
pl. Warsaws monstrous train
station now has a new neigh-
bour - the sparkl i ng Zote
Tarasy compl ex. Of fi ci al l y
opened on February 7, 2007
by Warsaw mayor, Hanna
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first
afternoon alone saw 64,000
people file through the doors.
The 250 million Euro project
includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Draw-
ing more than million visitors each month the complex
signals a bold shi ft away from the out-of-town malls
found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks &
Spencers, Aldo, Polands first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors
can not only visit Polands first Hard Rock Caf which
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership
International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Kl i f D- 1, ul . Okopowa
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531
45 00, www.kli f.pl. The
nati onwi de Kl i f chai n have
long been present in Warsaw,
though if you think youve seen
it all before then think again.
These chaps have rebranded
and re-launched with October
2008 refit resulting in the addi-
tion of new floors, an updated
design and a thorough facelift.
But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in
the pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags
from MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual
faves like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
TFH Tymczasowy Butik B- 4, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.
(+48) 509 74 17 89. This one-time pop-up shop has set
down roots finally, which means youll know exactly where to
find the citys hottest fashions. TFHs new boutique displays
an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and
hoodies from a variety of different designers. Dont forget
to check out the accessories and large pictorial books about
- what else? - fashion. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Food & Sweets
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, thats spreadable lard for
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after youve leapt
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number
of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel. (+48)
22 826 40 01, www.krakowskikredens.pl. Upmarket Polish
delicatessen selling jams, compotes, hams and cheeses. Also on
ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy). Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie A-2, Al. Jana Pawa II
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excel-
lent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their (Polish only) website. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you
want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and wood-
work all look lovely on someone elses mantle. Folk art is an
easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the
countrys favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II.
For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt or scarf off any of
the stalls that spring up unannounced around central station.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszakowska 99/101, tel. (+48)
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handi-
crafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Chmielna 8
(C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51, tel.
(+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little find
selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery,
oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and
a must visit if youre looking for a something a little unique.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Rock Shop B-4, ul. Zota 59
(Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22
222 07 00, www.hardrock-
cafe.pl. You know a city has
made it when it gets a Hard Rock
Cafe and is there anything which
says Ive been there more than
a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem.
Pick up the Warsaw one to add to your collection at the shop
inside the HRC in the Zote Tarasy development opposite the
train station. Classic t-shirts cost 99z, all others run 115z.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Cheapskat es r ej oi ce,
while the closure of The
Russian Market hit bar-
gain hunters hard Warsaw
sti l l has a ver y decent
spread of bazaars. While
rumours of pickpockets
are at times exaggerated,
do nonetheless exercise a degree of vigilance while
perusing the swag on show.
Koo Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836
23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn
till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the
country this is exactly the place if youve ever wanted
to own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from
India (yours for 16,000z). What else can you find? Weve
spotted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste,
early 19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures
and grandfather clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as
1z. Youll even find the occasional celeb looking for
something wacky to fill their top-floor penthouse with.
The traders themselves are a set of curious characters,
and watching these veterans at work is one reason alone
to visit. While early morning is the best time to snap up
the rare finds, 1pm on the closing Sunday is the time to
hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The golden rule
is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price means
overpaying. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00.
Koszyki F-4, ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. (+48) 533 33
15 68. If youre not a fan of shopping we think this is a
concept you can get behind. Koszyki (Baskets) combines
three functions: its a bazaar, bistro and bar all in one.
You can peruse the seasonal fruits, herbs, veggies and
flowers from dusk till dawn, then sit down for a meal
that incorporates many of the fresh foods on sale. In the
evening the bar opens and offers drinks with a kick until
the wee hours. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
Targ Dobrego Jedzenia w Fortecy B-1, ul.
Zakroczymska 12, tel. (+48) 601 13 58 01, www.
kregliccy.pl. Food, food and more food. Find fresh
herbs and vegetables, cheeses, meats, eggs straight
from the chicken and eco honey for sale. Q Open Wed
only 09:00 - 17:00.
Targowisko Bakalarska ul. Bakalarska 11
(Wochy), tel. (+48) 22 846 51 79, www.naszrynek.
eu. Prior to the building of Warsaws new National
Stadium the site was home to the famous communist
era Stadion Dziesiciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium),
a monstrous, crumbling stadium which spent its last
years as a huge outdoor market. The market attracted
vendors from distant lands and it was generally assumed
that ANYTHING could be bought there. After the market
closed many of the vendors relocated to the Bazaar on
Bakalarska, making it the capitals largest, most diverse
daily outdoor market. Expect to find loads of tat, clothes,
foodstuffs, perfumes, toys and a few oddities of dubious
origin. With over 500 pavilions and 700 market stalls,
its a fun place to just wander around and soak up the
atmosphere. To get there take bus 141, 189 or 401 to
the Hynka stop; or trams 7, 9, or 15 to Wochy-Ratusz.
QOpen 07:00 - 17:00.
Markets
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Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
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Consulates & Embassies
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521
34 44, www.australia.pl.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31
00, www.canada.pl.
France G-4, ul. Pikna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdw 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,
www.warszawa.diplo.de.
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.
embassyofireland.pl.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
00, www.israel.pl.
Italy F-2, Pl. Dbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625
33 68, pl.mfa.lt.
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
Spain G-4, ul. Myliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00,
www.exteriores.gob.es.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22
311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
Emergency Rooms
Szpital Kliniczny Dziecitka Jezus A-4, ul. Lindleya
4, tel. (+48) 22 502 20 00, www.szpital-clo.med.pl.
Ex-Pat Organizations
Alcoholics Anonymous B- 4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,
www.warsawaa.org. Meetings on Mon-Thu 18:30, Fri
20:30 and Sat at 11:00. Note that on the first Saturday of
each month these meetings take place at ul. Poznaska 38.
Meetings at ul. Poznaska 38 also take place every Sun at
13:30. For more info visit their website.
Fantasy Role-Playing Group, tel. (+48) 505 44 12
71, [email protected]. English-language
players welcome for game that constructs collective story
narratives using high-level language communication and a
few simple rules. Wholesome fun, with newcomers always
welcome and encouraged. Contact R.A. for dates, times
and locations.
International Womens Group of Warsaw, www.
iwgwarsaw.eu. Meetings are held on the second Monday
of the month. For the location visit the groups website at
www.iwgwarsaw.eu. Every Monday a meeting is not occurring
theres a coffee social at ta Kaczka or Bread and Butter
Cafe, which are both in Zote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Zota 59) at 10:00
For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact iwg.
[email protected]
Toastmasters Club ul. Mokotowska 1, tel. (+48)
696 292 451, www.toastmasters.org.pl. Warsaws
chapter of Toastmasters International, which helps mem-
bers devel op presentati on and publi c speaking skills.
Guests are very wel come at thei r weekl y Wednesday
evening meetings; see their website for more information
or call Etan (+48 696 292 451).
Genealogy
National Archive B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 7, tel. (+48) 22
635 92 68, www.warszawa.ap.gov.pl.
Registry Office E-1, ul. Andersa 5, tel. (+48) 22 443
12 30, www.um.warszawa.pl.
International Schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.
aswarsaw.org.
Ecole Antoine de Saint- Exupry ul. Nobla 16
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.
saint-exupery.pl.
International American School ul. Dembego 18
(Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza 140
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies-warsaw.pl.
Pre-school Three Languages C-2, ul. Karowa 14/16
lok 6 and 2, tel. (+48) 503 07 21 19, www.3languages.pl.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Language Schools
Edu&More B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 44 lok.7, tel. (+48)
22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com.
The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. Szpitalna
5/213, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
Private Clinics
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
566 22 22, www.damian.pl.
Lux-Med A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.luxmed.pl. Also at
ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawa II
78 (E-1) and ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6).
Real Estate
Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48) 22
596 50 50.
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors B-4, Al. Jerozo-
limskie 123a (Millenium Plaza, 1st floor), tel. (+48)
22 116 65 00, www.ober-haus.pl.
Terranum, tel. (+48) 662 65 69 30, www.terranum.pl.
Religious Services
St Pauls English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3,
ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsaw-
catholics.pl.
Relocation Companies
AGS Worldwide Movers ul. Julianowska 37, Piasec-
zno, tel. (+48) 22 702 10 72, www.agsmovers.com.
Move One Relocations F-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
tel. (+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.
PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.
(+48) 22 630 61 00, www.prorelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
Agencja MAart C-3, ul. Gaczyskiego 3, tel. (+48)
22 480 88 00, www.maart.com.
Awangarda B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33/11 (5th floor),
tel. (+48) 22 629 92 44, www.awangarda.pl.
24-hour Dentists
CCS Ludna G-3, ul. Ludna 10a, tel. (+48) 22 625 01
02, www.ccsludna.pl.
DentaLux D-6, ul. Racawicka 131, tel. (+48) 22 823
72 22, www.dentalux.pl.
24-hour Pharmacies
Apteka G-5, ul. Puawska 39, tel. (+48) 22 849 82 05,
www.apteka.jollymed.pl.
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarnoci 149, tel. (+48)
22 620 08 18.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520
59 99, www.amcham.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce G-4, Al. Szu-
cha 3/14, tel. (+48) 22 622 27 51, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Conference Centres
NEW
Sound Garden Conference Center D-7, ul. wirki
i Wigury 18, tel. (+48) 22 279 14 00, www.soundgar-
denhotel.pl. Neatly situated between the airport and the
city centre, the Sound Garden Conference Center is ideally
situated for all forms of business meetings, conferences
and events. The nine rooms, located on the ground and
first floor of the Sound Garden Hotel, vary in size from the
14-seat Sonata right up to the whopping 310-seat and 7m
high Symphony. All rooms are well equipped, spaciously
designed and have access to natural daylight. Another plus
point is the fact that every conference space is designed to
the highest sound insulation speci fications guaranteeing
absolute privacy for your business discussions as well as
eliminating any external distractions.
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 19.09.13 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 4.1869z, US $1 = 3.1364z, GBP 1 = 5.0095z.
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626
92 60, www.aurex.biz. 1 Euro = 4.13zl, 1 Dollar =
3.03zl, 1 Pound = 4.88zl. No commission.
Kantor A-4, Zote Tarasy, ul. Zota 59 (level 0), tel.
(+48) 22 222 12 34. 1 Euro = 4.14zl, 1 Dollar = 3.07zl,
1 Pound = 4.92zl, No commission.
Pekao SA ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48)
22 650 51 88, www.pekao.com.pl. 1 Euro = 3.82z,
1 Dollar = 2.88z, 1 Pound = 4.55z. No commission.
Currency Exchange
The Season Matters
Autumn last available dates
Winter December, January, February
make a reservation today
conference rooms for 10 to 300 people
superior sound equipment
the highest ceilings in Warsaw
the possibility to present a vehicle in the room
equipment included in the price
Boutique
Mercure
Warszawa
Centrum
H15
Radisson BLU
Mostowski
Palace
Krasiski
Palace
Warsaw
Uprising
Monument
Little
Insurgent
Monument
St. Anne's
The Great
National
Theatre
Lubomirski
Palace
Tomb of
the Unknown
Soldier
Warsaw
University
Chopin
Museum
National
Museum
Polish Army
Museum
Bkitny
Palace
The
Armoury
Warsaw
City Hall
1 - ul. Nowomiejska
2 - ul. Piesza
3 - ul. Fandaminskiego
1
2
3
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All you need to
know about where
to sleep, eat, drink,
visit and enjoy
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Print
129
October - November 2013 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
128
STREET REGISTER
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, w. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biaa A-3 (E-2)
Biaobrzeska D-4/5
Bielaska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterw Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Bole B-1
Boni fraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chaubiskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chemska H-6
Chodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepa A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Duga A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Dugosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzaskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriaska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkaska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmaska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G/H-5
Gaczyskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetw D-5
Gsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Grnolska H-3
Grska H-5/6
Grskiego B/C-3
Goszczyskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grjecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymay D-4
Hoa B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inflancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawa II, al.
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdw G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kpna H-1
Kiliskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopiska D-4
Korotyskiego D-6
Kocielna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Kola B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasiskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnocka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Krlewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koo B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Ksica C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusociskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Ldowa G-5
Lechicka D-7
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
azienkowska H-4
ucka A-3 (E-3)
Madaliskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Maachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariaska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszakowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miczyska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Mia A-1 (D/E-1)
Miobdzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Mynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Modawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrou, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecaa B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodlegoci, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niyskiego Pasa B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy wiat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Obona C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolaska F/G-6
Odyca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Oklnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrw F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orowicza G-3
Ossoliskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieska G-1
Paska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawiskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Pikna F/G-4
Pisudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Patowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powzkowska D-1
Powstacw Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznaska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Prna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puawska G-5/7
Puku Baszta F-7
Pytlasiskiego G-6
Racawicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajcw B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostafiskich E-5
R, al. G-4
Rana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieyska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skaryskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochd D-5/6
Sawiska D-3/4
Soneczna G-5
Supecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarnoci, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartaska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starociska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stpiska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregw D-3
Szczliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleerw H-4
liska A-4
witojaska B-2
witojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
witokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagore'a F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trbacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyy, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wa Miedzeszyski H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Walicw A-3 (E-2/3)
Waowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryskiego F/G-4/5
Wski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasa B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileski pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wiolarska H-3
Wilana C-2
Wilicka D-5/6
Winiowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wjtowska B-1
Wolno D-2
Wooska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wsplna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzee Gdaskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzee Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzee Szczeciskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Zbkowska H-1
Zajcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Zota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycizcw H-3
elazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
elaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
urawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
wirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
ytnia D-2
Adam Czerniakw's house 90
Adam Czerniakws house 91
Adam Mickiewicz Monument 76
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of
Literature 79
Adventure Warsaw 73
A Footbridge of Memory 90, 98
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument
88
AiOLI Cantine 42
Alchemy Day Spa 111
Anka Rancho Horse Riding 110
Anytkwariat Lamus 115
Aquapark Wesolandia 111
Arco Bowling Alley 110
Arkadia 119
Art Gallery Amber Silver Line
114
Atelier Amaro 48
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery
10
Babooshka 53
Banja Luka 33
Bar Mleczny Familijny 43
Bar Warszawa de Luxe 60
Bt 36
Bears 88
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar 58
Belvedere 49
Belvedere Palace 100
Berling Statue 94
Besuto 45
Biaa G 49
Bielaski Bank 94
Bierhalle 37, 58, 65
Biosfeera 56
Bistro Warszawa 49
Blikle Caf 57
Bordo 37
Botanical Garden 100
Brasserie Warszawska 49
British Bulldog Pub 58
Brdno Cemetery 10
Browar de Brasil 34
BrowArmia 37, 65
Bubbleology 57
Buddha Indian Restaurant 35
Buildings 88
Butchery & Wine 54
By Bus 102
Bydo i Poido 54
By Taxi 102
Caf 6/12 49
Cafe Baguette 57
Caf Baobab 32
Cafe Kulturalna 58
Cafe Prna 57
Caf Vincent 57
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery
10
Campanile 29
Casa Pablo 54
Castle Inn 29
Central Grill 53
Cepelia 118
Cesarski Paac 34
Charles de Gaulle Monument
76
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 35
China Garden 34, 104
Chodna 25 90
Chopskie Jado 50
Chopin Benches 107
Chopin Monument 107
Chopin Monument & Temple of
Sibyl 100
Church of the Nuns of the
Visitation 107
City Sports Club 111
C.K. Obera 35
Club Capitol 65
Club Mirage 65
Coctail Bar Max 58
Concept 37
Copernicus Science Centre
109
Coyote Bar & Night Club 69
Cross-monument 76
Cuda na Kiju 60
Dawne Smaki 50
DeCoteria 38, 89
Delicja Polska 50
de lite club 65
Desa Modern 116
dom handlowy VITKAC 119
Dom Polski 50
Drink Bar Jasna 24 60
Dziurka od Klucza 43
Ekskluzywne Alkohole M&P 114
Element 65
EMPiK 116
Etgar Keret's House 90
Ethnographic Museum 79
Evangelical Augsburg Church
of the Holy Trinity 106
Execution Sites 94
FACTORY Outlet 119
Fantom 66
First Warsaw Gol f and Country
Club 110
Five 38
Florian 51
Foksal XVIII 65
Folk Gospoda 51
Fotoplastikon 80
Franck Provost 111
Frida 55
Fryderyk Chopin Museum 106
Fusion 35
Galeria aBo Art 116
Galeria Artystycznego
Rzemiosa 114
Galeria Bursztynek 114
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture
and the Decorative Arts 80
Gestapo HQ 80
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 30
Gol f Park Driving Range 110
Gol f Park Jzefw 110
Gol f Parks Poland 110
Goshico 116
Grand Kredens 38
GR Bistro & Restaurant 38
Green Bar 56
Green Patio 49
Green Peas Eco bar & coffee
49
Grzegorz Przemyk Memorial 91
Haka Bar 60
Hala Mirowska 91
Halka restauracja po polsku 51
Hard Rock Cafe 32, 60
Helicopter.pl 110
Hilton Warsaw Hotel &
Convention Centre 28
Historical Museum of Warsaw
80
Holiday Inn Express Warsaw
Airport 29
Holy Cross Church 73, 106
Hostel 36 31
Hotel Bristol Warsaw 27
Hoa by Mondovino 33, 62
Hulakula Bowling Alley 110
Hulakula Leisure Centre 110
Hyatt Regency Warsaw 27
Hydrozagadka 60, 89
Ibis Budget Warszawa
Centrum 30
Ibis Stare Miasto 30
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 30
Ichiban Sushi 46
Ignacy Paderewski 77
Inaba 46
InterContinental 27
Invisible Exhibition 84
Italian Military Cemetery 10
Jerzy Popieuszko's house 91
Jesuit Church 74
Jewish Historical Institute 98
Jzef Pisudski Monument 77
Juliusz Sowacki Memorial 91
Jung & Lecker 62
Kamanda Lwowska 56
Kapela Podwrkowa
Monument 88
Karmello 57
Kaskrut 38
Kelly Melu 114
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery
46
King Sigismund's Column 77
Klaps 61
Kli f 119
Klubokawiarnia Resort 49
Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska 61
Kokomo 69
Koo Bazar 118
Kociuszkowcw Monument 89
Koszyki 118
Kraken Rum Bar 61
Krakowski Kredens 118
Kuchnia Funkcjonalna 38
Kufle i Kapsle 61
Kwadrat 62
Lake & Island 103
Lapidarium 116
azienki Park 84, 100, 106
Le Cedre 84 47
Legends British Bar &
Restaurant 34, 65
Leniwa Gospodyni 43
Libido Gentleman's Club 69
Likus Concept Store 117
Literatka 51
LOKAL.BISTRO 51
Mka i Woda 43
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
Warsaw 27
Marriott 27
Mazovia Region Centre of
Culture and Arts 91
Meat Love 38
Mercure Warszawa Centrum 28
Mercure Warszawa Grand 29
Meridian 90
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 64
Metropol 30
Military Cathedral 74
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 43
Mokobelle 114
Moliera 2 117
Momu Gastrobar 62
Monument to the Ghetto
Heroes 98
Monument to the Warsaw
Uprising 94
Moon 31
Museum of Hunting and
Horsemanship 101
Museum of Independence 80
Museum of John Paul II
Collection 81, 91
Museum of Polish People's
Movement 81
Museum of Priest Jerzy
Popieuszko 81
Museum of Sports and
Tourism 82
Museum of Technology 85
Muu Muu 54
Mylewicki Palace 101
Namaste India 35
Namaste India Clay Oven 36
National Museum 83
Neon Museum 83
Neptunea 118
New Orleans Gentlemen's Club
69
Nicolaus Copernicus
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
w Wellness B Outside seating
Symbol Key
130
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
LISTINGS INDEX
Monument 78
Nike 78
Northern Cemetery 10
Novotel Warszawa Centrum 29
Noyk Synagogue 98
Nu Jazz Zone 44, 64
Obera Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 52, 90
Oki Doki 31
Okopowa Street Jewish
Cemetery 98
Ole Tapas Steak Restaurant 54
Olive Garden 47
Opera 66
Ora Basta Wine and Pasta 44
Organza 66
Orthodox Church of St. Mary
Magdalene 89
OSP Saska Kpa 62
Osteria 54
OTO!SUSHI 46
Palace of Culture and Science
85
Palace on the Island 101
Palmiry - The National
Memorial Museum 82
Pandora 115
Panorama Bar & Lounge 62
Paparazzi 62
Papaya 55
Park & Gardens 103
Paros 47
Pasta 95
Pikna Bistro 38, 64
Pies Czy Suka/Pure Bar 63
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 60
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel 57
Plan B 63
Platinium Club 66
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 117
P&O Apartments 30
Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra
63, 89
Podwale - Kompania Piwna 38
Polemika 117
Polish Army Museum 84
Polonia Palace Hotel 29
Po Prostu Art Bristo Zachta 38
Poster Museum 103
Potocki Mausoleum 104
Powzki Catholic Cemetery 10
Praga Tourist Information 89
Presidential Palace 81
Produkty Benedyktyskie 118
Prudential Tower 95
Przekski Zakski 60
Przepis na Kompot 107
Pure Health and Fitness 110
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel 29
Rain by India Curry 36
Residence St. Andrew's Palace
31
Restauracja Concept 13 40
Restauracja Kultura 40
Restauracja Oliva 48
Restauracja Rana 52
Restauracja Wilanw 40, 104
Restaurant Jasna 24 40
Restro 40
Rialto 28
Ristorante Repubblica Italiana
44
Rock Shop 118
Roma 44
Roma Bukieteria 44
Ronald Reagan Monument 84
Room 13 Club & Lounge 66
Roommate Apartments 31
Royal Castle 83
Rycki Bazaar 89
Ruins of the Rising 95
Ry i Ryba 46
SAM Bakery & Restaurant 41
Sapper Monument 95
SD Gallery 104
Secret Li fe (of things) 117
Sheesha Lounge 36, 66
Sheraton Warsaw Hotel 28
Silver Line 115
Sioux 33
Skaryszewski Park 95
Sketch 63
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny
41, 63
Sodki Sony 57
Sony 52
Socjal 41
Sofia 69
Sokotra 48
Solec 44 41
Sol y Sombra 55
SomePlace Else 33, 64, 65
Sorbo Serpico 45
Soto Sushi 46
Sound Garden Hotel 29
Soviet War Cemetery 10
Soviet War Memorial 89
Sowa & Przyjaciele 52
Spin City 110
Squash City 111
St. Anne's Church 74, 104
Start Hotel Atos 30
St. Benno's Church 75
St. Carlo Borromeo Church 91
St. Casimir's Church 75
St. Francis Seraph Church 75
St. John the Baptist Cathedral
75
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral 89
Sungate Beauty & Spa 111
Syrena 78
Tadeusz Kociuszko
Monument 78
Targ Dobrego Jedzenia w
Fortecy 118
Targowisko Bakalarska 118
TFH Tymczasowy Butik 118
T.G.I. Fridays 91
Thai Taste Express 55
Thai Thai 56
Theatre on the Island 101
The Chopin Family Drawing
Room 106
The Little Insurgent Monument
95
The Museum of the History of
Polish Jews 98
The Westin Warsaw Hotel 28
The Wilanw Palace Museum
103
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
79
Tomo Sushi 47
'To Those Deported and
Murdered in the East' 79
Tourist Information 82
Traces of the Ghetto 98
Traffic Club 116
Trattoria Rucola 45
U Fukiera 53
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of
Modern Art/CSW) 84, 101
Ujazdowski Park 84
Umschlagplatz 98
U Szwejka 34
Vegetarian World 56
Veturilo 110
Vivandier 53
Warsaw City-Tour 73
Warsaw Dream 73
Warsaw Tortilla Factory
55, 64, 65
Warsaw Trade Tower 90
Warsaw Uprising Cemetery 10
Warsaw Uprising Museum 94
Warszawa Powile 64
Warszawska 60
Wawel 57
White House & Orangery 101
Wilczeniec Country Club 110
Wine Bar Mielyski 62
Winestone 41, 62
Winiarnia Restauracja
Superiore 42, 62
Winosfera 42, 62
W.Kruk 115
Wodny Park 111
Wola Massacre Statue 95
W Oparach Absurdu 64, 89
World of Amber 115
Wygodny Rower 110
Zbkowska 89
Zapiecek 53
elazowa Wola - Birthplace 107
Zote Tarasy 119
Znajomi Znajomych 64
Zoo 89, 110
urawina Rest & Wine 42
All Saints Day 10
Andrzejki 75
Ask your Concierge 28
Climate 17
Currency Exchange 120
Eating at a Glance 32
Facts & Figures 17
Fotoplastikon 80
Gay Warsaw 66
Gestapo HQ 80
Gruba Kaka 77
Have Your Say 64
Healthy Eating 49
Hot Beer 63
Chocolate Lounges 57
Jan III Sobieski 104
Jazz 64
Kociuszko Monument 78
Language Smarts 19
Lodgings at a Glance 27
Market Values 18
Microbreweries 65
Milk Bars 43
National Holidays 19
Night at a Glance 58
Palmiry 82
Polish Alcohol 116
Polish Snacks & Shots 60
Presidential Palace 81
Quick Currency Convertor 18
Rosa Luxemburg 67
Royal Castle 83
Shopping at a Glance 114
Sport on TV 65
Stanislaw Poniatowski 79
Steak 54
The Eastern Wall 76
The Royal Route 8
Train Smarts 13
Vice Advice 68
Warsaw Central Station 12
Warsaw Historical Timeline 71
Warsaw Street Murals 74
Wine Bars 62
Features index
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