Desert Magazine 1974 September
Desert Magazine 1974 September
Desert Magazine 1974 September
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Tainter oj tfie
Many art critics consider John Hilton the foremost painter of desert scenes
of theWest. His oils are hung in galleries throughout the United States and
are constantly in demand. Desert Magazine has a limited supply of prints of
his painting entitled "Contrasts" showing sand dunes covered with desert
wildflowers and the Santa Rosa Mountains in the background.
This beautiful four-color print is 11x17 inches on high quality mat paper
with two-inch margins, ideal for framing. Available to Desert Magazine
readers, mailed rolled, in a tube, for only $3.00, including tax and postage.
Send check to DESERT, Contrasts, Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260.
WILLIAM KNYVbl I, Publisher-tditor
DuviL
GEORGE BRACA, Art Director
MARY FRANCES STRONG, Field Trip Editor
ENID C. HOWARD, Associate Editor
F. A. BARNES, Utah Associate Editor MAGAZINE
GLENN VARGAS, Lapidary Editor
K. L. BOYNTON, Naturalist
MARVEL BARRETT, Circulation Manager Volume 37, Number 9 SEPTEMBER 1974
CONTENTS
FEATURES
THE COVER:
David Muench of Santa ROCK ART IN THE COSO RANGE 26 Helen Walker
Barbara, Calif., frames
the old mission at Tuma-
cacori National M o n u - DEEP SPRINGS VALLEY 32 Mary Frances Strong
ment, in southern Arizona
NANA'S FINEST PUT-ON 36 John S. Southworth
DEPARTMENTS
EDITORIAL, CIRCULATION AND ADVERTISING OFFICES: 74-109 LarreaSt., Palm Desert, California92260. Telephone Area Code 714 346-8144.
Listed in Standard Rate and Data. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: United States, Canada and Mexico; 1 year,$6.00; 2 years, $11.00; 3 years, $16.00. Other
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send both new and old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly. Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and
at additional mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1974 by DESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce any or all
contents must be secured in writing. Manuscripts and photographs will not be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope.
Desert/September 1974
A Peek pp
AVOID COSTLY
TRANSMISSION in the WANCIERER
Publishers
Poke
New Concept THIS MONTH'S issue has a variety of
articles and one that should be of great
ENDS interest to most readers is the analysis of
the Interim Desert Management Plan by
Transmission Mary Frances Strong. She has logged
tens of thousands of miles traveling
Overheating. through the deserts of the West, and is
an acknowledged writer who has for 22
By Slim Barnard
The tours by the Happy Wanderers con-
tain excellent maps, mileage, history
years been extolling the great outdoors of the areas, costs of gasoline consump-
KOOLER replaces original Hot transmission fluid tion, lodging meals, what to wear and
transm ssion pan quickly, is exposed to 354 sq. ins. through her field trips in both Gems and the best time of the year to make the
easily. Heavier gauge of additional cooling
steel than the original. surface. Minerals Magazine and Desert Maga- trips. A family can plan their trip and
New gasket free with determine the exact amount of time and
each KOOLER. ' zine. It is an important issue, not only for money required.
\
the rockhound but other recreationists as Volume Number One covers 52 tours
well. throughout California's deserts, moun-
tains, lakes and seashores. In Volume
K. L. Boynton tells us about the shiny Number Two, Slim and Henrietta explore
black Phainopepla and the relationship it Arizona, Nevada and Old Mexico,, with
the areas ranging from modern resorts
has with the desert mistletoe. Helen to ghost towns.
Walker does a thorough job on petro-
When ordering BE SURE to state Volume
glyphs in the Coso Range, and John One or Volume Two. Both books are large
Southworth gives us a new slant on the format, heavy paperback with I 50 pages.
Cool air flows through You SAVE! No external
the fluid in heat- parts or moving parts, "Lost Adams Diggings." S2.95 each
conductive metal tubes, so no expensive
taking heat out with it. installation and After an absence of several years, Please add 25c for postage & handling
maintenance costs.
Roger Mitchell returns to Desert with a Calif, residents add 6% sales tax
If you tow anything...or occa- different trip to Sonora, Mexico, and
Order from
sionally drive off-road... you Mary Frances Strong contributes a field
risk a $300 transmission repair trip for crystals in the White Mountains Magazine Book Shop
from overheating. Prevent it
of California. P. O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
w i t h the new INTEGRITY
TRANSMISSION KOOLER. Re- Two new authors are introduced with
places original pan. Install it this issue. Larry Phillips does a nice job Lowest Photo Print Prices
yourself in 20 minutes without on Masonic, a little-visited mining camp,
special tools or skill. New con- Highest Quality
complete with a dramatic sunset photo.
cept is more efficient than KODACOLOR FILM
Clyde H. Smith, who has many, many DEVELOPED & PRINTED
radiator-type coolers: Cool air
flows through the fluid, provid- credits on the East Coast, rounds out the Standard 12 Jumbo Prints 1.93
ing 354 sq. ins. of c o o l i n g month with his experiences of a flash Standard 12 Jumbo Prints and
s u r f a c e . No m a i n t e n a n c e . flood. New Roll of KODACOLOR 2.84
Money-back guarantee of SAT- Kodacolor Neg. Standard reprints 14
I would like to note a minor proof- SEND FOR PRICE SHEETS
ISFACTION.
reading error in a photo caption that ap- & ENVELOPES. All Photo
peared in the J uly issue. On Page 23, the Prices are Comparably low.
Ask your auto parts dealer for No gimmicks.
the INTEGRITY KOOLER, or last line should have read "no vandals
No lies.
write for free catalog. had apparently damaged the area since More than 50 years of con-
we photographed it in 1972!" This tinuous photo service guar-
Integrity Transmission changes the meaning sljghtly. antees your quality and our
integrity.
Koolers
Dept. DM, 2900 Zuni Street MARKET BASKET PHOTO CO.
Denver, Colorado 80211 P. O. Box 370, Yuma, Arizona 85364 or
\
P. O. Box 2830, San Diego, Calif. 92112
Desert/September 1974
NO PRICE INCREASE 25 YEARS OF HAPPY
MONEY BACK GUARANTEE MAIL ORDER CUSTOMERS
CHRISTMAS CARDS
T933 The Friendly Roadrunner — Holiday Greet 1845 Christmas Eve Callers —Merry Christmas
ings and Best Wishes for the New Year — Lau and Happy New Year-Thomas
OF THE WEST
Send an honest-to-goodness "Western Merry Christmas" with
these beautiful cards. They feature the finest in western art
and thoughtful sentiment. Rich 5" x 7" cards can be printed
with your name or name and brand, as well as your address
on the deluxe white envelopes. Extras included. Try our "Stam-
pede Service" from now 'til Christmas!
1025 A Cowboy's P r a y e r - M a y the Peace and Joy T912 Ocotillo in the D a w n - M a y the Peace and
of Christmas be with you, etc. - Snidow Leanin'Tree Cards- To Help You Touch Across the Miles Happiness of the Christmas Season, etc. —Hilton
1859 A Christmas Sampler—May the warmth and 1008 A Toast t o Santa —He sails thru the moonlit T200 "Hoping your t r a i l is a long one" —Merry T908 "As a child l o v e s " - M a y the Peace and Joy
friendliness of the Christmas Season, etc. —Nicies heavens to bring us joy...Merry Christmas — M i t c h e l l Christmas! Good friends, good times, etc. —Russell of Christmas be with you, e t c . - V . Miller
1740 "The wonder of Christmas f i l l s the world." 1552 The Merry Christmas Claim —Season's T107 Tidings of Great J o y - M a y the love that is all 1050 The Star that S t a y e d ' t i l M o r n i n g - M a y the
- M e r r y Christmas and a Happy New Year-Thomas Greetings and Good Diggings all the Year — Tiltnn around us at Christmas time, etc.-EchoHawk Peace and Joy of Christmas be with you, e t c . - B a r k s
f HOW TO ORDER: Write in total quantity and dollar amount remitted in proper
spaces. Mix and assort at no extra cost. Order all of one kind or as many of each as
desired. Fill out coupon, or order by letter, and mail with check or money order. Add
postage and handling fee to price of order. Canadian residents remit in U.S. dollar values.
Customs duty charged in Canada. Colorado residents add 3% sales tax. California residents
add 6% use tax. No CO.P. Thank you kindly!
TOTAL QUANTITY 12 26 37 50 75 1OO 125 150 200 300 500
WITHOUT NAME S2.75 S4.7B S 7.15 S 9.50 S14.00 S18.00 $22.25 S26.5O $35.00 $52.00 $84.50
WITH NAME 4.25 6.50 9.16 11.75 16.50 20.75 25.25 29.75 38.75 56.75 91.25
NAME AND BRAND 6.00 8.25 10.90 13.50 18.25 22.50 27.00 31.50 40.50 58.50 93.00
ADDRESS ON ENV. 1.75 2.00 2.25 2.50 2.75 3.00 3.25 3.50 4.00 5.00 7.00
T944 "Behold, He Cometh with c l o u d s " - M a y the 1019 "Light for every s t e p " - M a y the Peace and
Postage and Handling fee: Orders to $7.99 add BOt • $8.00 to S23.99 add 80C • $24.00and up add SI.00
Peace and Happiness of Christmas, etc — Vannerson Joy of Christmas be with you, etc. - C o l l e n d e r
FILL IN T107 T933 1025 1563
QUANTITY
DESIRED T200 T944 1026 1740
OF EACH
CARD T907 1008 1050 1845
BESIDE
CARD T908 1019 1552 1859
NUMBER
AT RIGHT T912 RUSH FREE SAMPLE AND CATALOG
Write in Total Cards Ordered Write in Total Payment Enclosed $
for
Fall and Winter Trips San Diego County Council of
to Death Valley Gem & Mineral Societies
Present
INC. Box1404D,
Palm Desert, California92260
sia, gems, minerals, artifacts, art, special ex-
hibits, dealers, rock swap, entertainment, de-
monstrations, refreshment, prizes.
Desert/September 7974
In this economy-minded world of to-
day, DESERT would like to recommend A VERY AMATEUR GUIDE TO
this new publication as not only a link to
the past, but as an important phase of
ANTIQUE BOTTLE COLLECTING
the future for man to once again return Bea Boynton
to the land. The ghost towns, the old cattle trails, the stagecoach stops and
Large format, profusely illustrated, the wagon-train routes have come alive with today's pioneers.
191 pages, $4.95. People are digging and collecting from Maine to California. Even
scuba divers along the Florida coast have joined in the hobby.
Here is a hobby which needs only enthusiasm to pursue. It is
great for a vacation, or for a weekend with the family. Go alone,
GUIDEBOOK TO
or take man's best friend!
Paperback $1.00
Desert/September 1974
Author of "Eastern Sierra
Jeep Trails," "Inyo Mono Jeep
Trails," "Exploring Joshua Tree"
and "Western Nevada Jeep
Trails," Roger Mitchell tells of
a relatively unpublicized area
of Sonora, Mexico.
ARIZPE
ADVENTURE
by ROGER MITCHELL
Desert/September 1974
Opposite page: Winding
through eroded canyons
adds to the interest of
the trip toArizpe.
Right: A stream is
forded frequently and
makes visiting the area \
dependent upon the
seasonal rainfall.
too bad. It is wide enough for two trucks the distant hills. While four- lows. For those looking for a wilderness
to pass and the dirt surface even sees a wheel-drive is not required, high clear- campsite, this canyon would be a good
blade occasionally. You can travel much ance vehicles such as pickup trucks are a choice for once you leave it you will soon
of it in high gear, although slower must. I would not recommend this road be in Arizpe.
speeds and caution should be exercised for the low-slung passenger car of today. Finally, Arizpe is reached some 55
on curves and when passing other ve- Although a few ranches are passed, miles south of Cananea. Arizpe may not
hicles. At a point 14.7 from the outskirts the signs of civilization become fewer be the oldest community in Sonora, but it
of Cananea the graded road forks. Keep and fewer as you go farther south. The nevertheless has a respectable old
left here The right fork will take you road winds its way into the hills, and in history. Situated on the bank of the up-
back to Route 2 near the village of Cui- the vicinity of the Km 250 signpost cross- per Rio Sonora, the area attracted the
taca. es a low pass. The road soon descends early Indians long before the arrival of
Bacanuchi, a rather nondescript and into a canyon which usually has a small the Spaniards in the New World. The
historically insignificant village, is 16.8 stream in the bottom of it. For the next first European in the area was probably a
miles south of this fork. Pemex Super- couple of miles, the road crisscrosses Franciscan missionary, Father Juan
Mex (80 octane gasoline) is usually avail- back and forth across the stream as it Suarez in 1642, although he did not stay.
able here, but I would not recommend winds its way down the colorful arroyo Suarez was followed by a J esuit mission-
using anything less than the "Casol- eroded out of red rock. Again, the ary, Ceronimo de la Canal two years
mex" (90 octane) if you can last another stream crossings usually present no par- later. By 1650, Arizpe had its first resi-
24 miles until you reach Arizpe. ticular problems for vehicles. The stream dent priest, Father Felipe Esgrecho.
From Bacanuchi the road and country- is the life-blood for a large and diverse With the padres came conversion to Ca-
side becomes more rugged and interest- arid country ecosystem. A great variety tholicism and an agricultural-based life-
ing. A half a mile beyond the village of wildlife depend on it. Dove and quail style for the Indians. Adequately rich
center the Rio Bacanuchi is forded. This are often seen in great numbers around soil and a dependable source of water
stream crossing usually represents no dusk. I once had the rare treat of watch- caused the community to grow and pros-
problems to vehicle?;. Beyond the ford, ing a family of coatimundi here, frolick- per over the years.
however, the road deteriorates as it ing in the water quite oblivious to my When Father Juan Zapata visited
starts across the lava-covered plain to- hiding place behind some nearby wil- Arizpe in 1678, he reported finding 416
Desert/'September 7974 9
ern homes, Like all traditional Mexican
villages, however, the life of the com-
munity still centers around the neatly
maintained plaza, or town square. Ariz-
pe's plaza comes complete with bell-
tower.
While Arizpe may be changing, it is
not difficult to find the past. Only a block
away from the plaza stands the enor-
mous cathedral which dominates the
town. The church was started in 1756 by
Father Carlos Roja when the town of
Arizpe was moved to its present location
on higher ground away from the river.
The church in Arizpe is the oldest Jesuit
church still standing in Sonora, and cer-
tainly the most impressive. Visitors are
welcome inside, but remember it is still a
church in daily use.
The altars are richly decorated with
enormous centuries-old paintings. But it
is not the picturesque old bells, the
guilded artwork, or the church's ancient
library which makes the cathedral fam-
ous. Buried beneath the floor of the
church lies the body of Juan Bauiista de
Anza, the renowned Spanish explorer of
early California fame who first colonized
San Francisco in 1775. De Anza died in
Arizpe in December of 1788.
Famous persons are commonly buried
in great cathedrals, so de Anza's final
resting place is not particularly unique in
itself. But what makes the church at
Arizpe so unusual is that de Anza's
grave has been opened and covered with
glass. Today's visitor can look down into
the casket at his grinning bones, still
/ he old church in Arizpe where the body of explorer Juan Bautista de Anza is buried.
partially covered with the remnants of
people living there, and they had built a what is now the States of Baja California, his uniform.
large, beautiful, and well-equipped California, Sonora, Chihuahua, Arizona, Those wishing to continue south down
(hurch. By 1778, a century later, the. New Mexico and Texas. In later times, the Rio Sonora can do so, visiting the his-
I lopulation of Arizpe had more than tripl- Arizpe served as the capital of Sonora. toric mission towns of Sinoquipe, Bana-
ed to 1534 people, of whom 514 were of Arizpe is also noted as being the birth- michi, Huepac, Aconchi, Baviacora and
I uropean origin, and the remaining 1020 place of three Mexican patriots, Pedro Ures. The road is dirt but in fair condi-
were Indian. In the middle part of the Garcia Conde (1806-1851), Ignacio Pes- tion the 37 miles from Arizpe to Huepac
I9th century, however, as many as queira (1818-1886) and Jesus Garcia where the pavement starts and continues
15,000 people may have lived in the Morales (1824-1883). all the way to Hermosillo. For those with
,irea. The 1960 Mexican census shows It is hard to believe this rich heritage limited time, I would recommend contin-
1108 people living in the Municipality of when driving into this picturesque, but uing south from Arizpe at least five
\rizpe which covers an area of some sleepy little village out in the middle of miles. At a point 3.3 miles south of
'806 square kilometers around the town. nowhere. Arizpe today has one foot in Arizpe, the village of Bomori is reached.
I he 1969 census recorded an increase of the 20th century and one foot in the past. Here the road leaves the Rio Sonora and
I I50 more people in the Municipality. With the paved road coming closer from for a mile or so winds its way through an
In 1776, Arizpe was made the capital the south every year, it seems only a incredibly eroded grotto. This side trip is
of Provincias Internas De Occidente un- matter of time until the nature of the worthwhile.
der Governor-General Teodoro de Croix. community will be altered forever. Ariz- To return directly to the border by a
I luring this colonial period, Arizpe was pe already has locally generated electric- different route, leave Arizpe on the same
I he seat of government for an enormous ity and a Pemex gas station with two road you came in on. At a point 2.5 miles
area which stretched from the Gulf of grades of gasoline. There is also a new north of the plaza the road forks. Here a
Mexico to the Pacific Ocean and included government building and several mod- sign points the way right to Bacoachi and
10 Desert/September 7974
PROSPECTING
TREASURE HUNTING
TO mm * T
CANANEAX
{ W BACANUCHI
CHINAPA
BACOACHI \ 0
i a ARIZPE
/
>O BOMORI
t
—N—
1 DeLuxe
RM 74 Gem Tumbler
TO URES
Rugged, compact for pros
and beginners. Mod. 25OD
Deluxe Tumbler
Cananea, some 66 and 137 kilometers earthquake in 1887 nearly destroyed it. 8 " & 10" Koolerant Kontrolled
away respectively. Keep right. This Unlike its better protected sister city Trim SaWS Heavy duty
route is 20 miles longer than the route of Arizpe, Bacoachi did not have so many throughout. Complete with
you came in on, but the road is probably inhabitants and was subject to an occa- Power Feed and Cut-Out
Switch & Motor.
a little better. A shade short of halfway sional raid by the fierce Apache. For this Mod. 157D-10 $244.00
in the 36 miles between Arizpe and Ba- reason, a detachment of Spanish troops
coachi is the small but historic village of
Chinapa. This community dates back to
was often garrisoned in Bacoachi to pro-
tect the town and outlying ranches.
Diamond Drill, Carver
& Buffer
Special design saves diamond drills.
fef
the Franciscan era around 1648. From Bacoachi it is about 40 miles Ready to g o —
less drills.
The road north continues up the Rio north to Cananea and the paved high- Mod. 605D
Sonora and, in fact, is often in the Rio way. The road is graded, however, and • FREE CATALOG •
Sonora. Fortunately, there is no quick- the trip can be made in less than two
sand and the water is usually low enough hours. = ORDER BLANK
to make fording possible. Covington Engineering Corp.
The best time to visit Arizpe is
P.O. Box 35D, R.dlands, CA 92373
Father J uan Suarez was in Bacoachi as anytime except July, August and Sep- All Items Shipped Freight Collect For
early as 1642. There is no record of when tember when temperatures are at their Better Service. Amt. Enclosed
the first church was built, but a well-de- highest and rainfall the greatest. The • GEM TUMBLER • TRIM SAW
corated church was reported here in rainy season should be avoided because • DRILL D FREE CATALOG
1678. The foundations of this first church rising waters can often make the roads Nome
Desert/September 1974 71
the Desert Plain
by MARY FRANCES STRONG
ALONG AND UNEASY wait for the "In- The popular 4WD trail up scenic Salt use of desert land is desired by the ma-
terim Critical Management Program," Wash is in an "Open" designation. This jority of the people.
in be used on the Mojave and Colorado is also the route used to reach a blood- Man, living tightly-packed in cities of
hi'serts, is over. The Bureau of Land stone site in the Orocopia Mountains. steel and cement, is in an unnatural en-
Management (B.L.M.) has delineated 71 vironment. If he is to survive, he must
areas in California's vast desert region, have land on which to roam, to get away
flu? use of which will fall into one of five Although this article is directed from constant noise and confusion, to re-
"designations" —Closed, Open, Special primarily to rockhounds, all recrea- fresh his soul and untangle taut nerves
Design, Designated Roads and Trails tionists should study this Desert as he pursues his hobbies. Our Public
;ind Existing Roads and Trails. This Plan report and its ramifications. Land must be used for "Man today, as
itrict management program of our well as saving it for tomorrow."
I'ublic Lands went into effect November When the overall map was made pub-
I 1973. the Management Plan will have on the lic showing 16 "Closed" areas which
The first season of Federal Manage- rock collector. The "Interim Critical included Amargosa Canyon, Turtle
ment of California's Desert Region has Management Program," put in force last Mountains Interior, Clark Mountain, Or-
I II en concluded. The changes are many. November, was one with which the rock- ocopia and Whipple Mountains, rumors
()n land we have roamed and camped at hound could live. Unfortunately, the ran rampant concerning the loss of many
will, explored, enjoyed our hobbies and Plan is already undergoing radical fine collecting locales within these areas.
< dine to love, we are now merely visitors changes. Study of the detail maps and plotting of
who must take heed and follow the rules While complete freedom is most desir- boundaries discloses only two collecting
I.nd down by the B.L.M. Where we can able, we must expect and accept change. sites have been affected.
go, what we can do, where we can camp Tremendous population growth and rap- Causing the most consternation was
is being decided by a governmental idly increasing use of the desert as a re- the Closed Designation for the Turtle
agency. When people have heretofore creational region has brought about the Mountains Interior (Area 34). Most
enjoyed the freedom to use their Public need for some control of land use and thinking people will agree the closure
I ,mds, restriction and loss of choice is a protection of antiquities. Most outdoor was justifiable, since it would probably
(utter pill to swallow. people are in agreement that scenic geo- save a small band of fast-declining Des-
The B.L.M. has made detailed maps logical formations, rare and unusual ert Bighorn Sheep. According to the
available which show the boundaries of flora and fauna, records left by prehis- boundary lines given by B.L.M., only
the 71 areas affected. Careful study and toric man and later desert dwellers be one minor collecting locale, near Coffin
comparison with U.S.C.S. topographical preserved. However, a sensible plan Spring, lies within the closure. (This site
mips indicate quite clearly what affect which will protect yet allow the multiple is Area " E " in Desert Gem Trails, page
7.' Desert/September 7974
69.) It is still possible to drive within one-
half-mile of the site and then make a
short hike up the wash. The remaining
Turtle Mountains collecting locales come
under "Designated Roads and Trails."
The boundary lines given for the Oro-
copia Mountains, (Area 51) Closure, in-
dicate the bloodstone deposit (Desert,
Feb. 1972) either lies about on the line or
possibly one-tenth-of-a-mile within it.
Should the latter be the case, it will only
be a very short hike from the parking
area.
More pertinent to the use of this locale
was the inclusion of Sec. 2, T. 8 S., R. 11
E. in the Closure of Salt Creek (Area 54).
Access to the bloodstone deposit is via
the canal road which crosses the N.E.
corner of Section 2. A phone call to Gor-
don Flint, B.L.M., Riverside, California
revealed they would not be closing the
road, since it is an easement. However,
he said he had been told the roadway Long before the Desert Management Program began, steps were taken to protect
was posted "No Trespassing." precious antiquities such as the Cottonwood Charcoal Kilns. Weather is the greatest
vandal here. Since this photograph was taken, a roof has reportedly been constructed
Since the canal and road are under the
over the kilns.
jurisdiction of the Coachella Valley
County Water District, I talked with public interest groups to provide a var- parts who wish the desert region to be be
Kerby Hester, their Administrative En- iety of vehicle use together with related left entirely without control of its re-
gineer. recreation facilities such as camping sources.
"Rockhounds and Four-Wheelers areas, use boundaries and access roads. You will recall I stated earlier, "The
have been using the county road for "Designated Roads and T r a i l s " Plan presented and put in force Nov. 1,
years. We have no objections. It is not means recreation vehicle travel will be 1973, is one with which the rockhound
posted —only the canal and its pertinent permitted only upon those roads and could live." Though in force less than
structures," Mr. Hester told me. This trails designated for use by B.L.M. four months, changes were being made
means there is still access to the deposit These two categories are not yet in effect which would seriously affect group and
via the canal road and the 4WD trail up and the current plan states "until such club field trips. Also, there is currently a
Salt Wash. plans and designation is completed and bill before Congress which proposes to
Closure of Amargosa Canyon (Area adopted, recreation vehicle use is per- transfer two million acres of desert land
17) does not include Sperry Wash Road mitted only on exisiting roads and containing at least two dozen prime col-
leading to the wood area several miles trails." lecting areas. It is not important now
south of Tecopa. Nor is the Copper In other words, the majority of our col- whether or not the Interim Management
World Mine within the Closure of Clark lecting areas are not yet categorized. Plan is acceptable, these proposed
Mountain (Area 22). The roads we may travel and where we changes are not!
Well over a hundred remaining col- will be allowed to collect have not been Let us discuss them separately. In
lecting locales fall under a "Restricted" decided. Governmental agencies and February, 1974, B.L.M.'s National Dir-
designation which has been subdivided public interest groups will make these ector, Curt Berklund, issued Instruction
into three categories —Special Design, important decisions. It ts imperative that Memorandum 74-60, effective immedi-
Designated Roads and Trails, Existing the rock collecting hobby be represented ately. It directed all field officials to issue
Roads and Trails. It would seem that the at future sessions dealing with the use of special land use permits on National Re-
rock collector had not fared too badly. areas under the "Restricted" designa- sources Land —this is the new name
However, it is the "Restricted Designa- tions. given to our Public Lands. Six months
tion," appearing innocent on the sur- While our local B.L.M. offices have earlier, the local B.L.M. had assured
face, that is capable of bringing regula- seemingly been sympathetic to the rock rockhounds that, despite the wording in
tions the rock collector would find unten- collector, we must remember they are a Executive Order 11644 for the o.ntrol of
able. You might say, it is a bone thrown government agency and, like politicians, off-road vehicles, permits and fees
to pacify us temporarily. come under the influence of pressure would not apply to rockhound field trips
Under the Restricted Designation, groups and lobbyists. They must listen and similar activities!
"Special Design" means a detailed plan to the fanatical preservationists who The requirements for obtaining per-
has yet to be prepared in cooperation seek to close the desert to all vehicular mits were absurd. You had to know 80
with other governmental agencies and use, as well as their opposing counter- days in advance when you wished to
Desert/September 7974 13
we are going to have to be constantly on
guard to keep something from being
slipped by us.
The seriousness of Instruction Mem-
orandum 74-60 was not the requirement
of permit and fee, but the way the rules
were set up. Rockhound field trips are
camping trips with family and friends,
not competitive recreation events. While
a club field trip chairman could possibly
plan 80 days in advance, individual trips
with friends are generally spontaneous
and not planned very far ahead.
Group permits could lead to individual
permits or no permits except for groups.
The next step could be permits and re-
servations which would radically limit
the number of people who would be al-
lowed to use the desert land. Let's pro-
ject a bit further into the future. Rangers
would be needed to check permits and
\ Bill pending in Congress provides for the transfer of two million acres of desert the next move could be to allow collect-
l.md to the California Park System. It would not only close many prime collecting
ing in only a few designated locales.
neas, but also restrict access to old mines and ghost towns such as Providence.
Next, the preservationist could cry
drive out into the desert to collect rocks would be subject to the above regula- "over-use" and have the land closed "to
with friends. A detailed application form tions. Such planned control and regi- rest." These possibilities are not as far-
uas to be filled out, two topographical mentation of our private lives is frighten- fetched as you might think. It would
maps marked with the route to be taken, ing! seem that every means legally possible
where you would meet and camp. A Fortunately, this memorandum was will be used to eventually stop vehicular
I' 10.00 non-returnable filing fee was to rescinded due to the protests of recrea- use on desert land by recreationists —
be included. tionists. But, the question is, what next? rockhounds included.
IF, your permit was granted, a mini- This is the second time that the Wash- Dark clouds are hovering over two mil-
mum $10.00 land-rental fee was to be ington office has sent out highly objec- lion acres of Mojave Desert land be-
( harged and certain conditions of usage tionable regulations concerning outdoor tween Highways 15 and 40, extending
be imposed such as insurance require- recreation. In February, 1973, a set of from the Cady Mountains east to the
ments and a cash bond! Though your rules for off-road vehicles was issued Colorado River Representative William
party might be composed only of family which met so many objections that it was M. Ketchum (R-Calif.) has introduced a
and friends totaling 25 or more, the trip recalled for revision. It looks as though bill, H.R. 14369, which, if passed, would
transfer this land to the State of Cali-
i ollecting in Turtle Mountain Basin is still permitted but is under "Designated fornia for use as a State Park. This re-
Roads and Trails. " This designation means very little since B.L.M. has yet to decide gion contains over 20 of our finest rock
what roads and collecting locales its final plan will allow the rockhound to use. The collecting locales, which would be lost to
Closed Turtle Mountain Interior Boundary" runs along the base of the mountains us. Should the bill be passed, it could
HI the background. sound the death knell to rock collecting
in California's Desert Region. Such suc-
cess would be sure to quickly bring other
bills and closures.
Another major change in the Interim
Critical Management Plan is now in the
offing. The B.L.M. is trying to draft a
working definition of Existing Roads and
Trails. Consider the importance of this
matter. The recording of a few words will
determine whether favorite collecting
areas will be accessible or not.
Just what is an Existing Road or Trail?
You can be sure that the definition sub-
mitted by a preservationist will differ
from that of a recreationist. If an adverse
definition is drafted, many of the roads
Desert/September 7974
JIMIRY CRAffJ CAMIQG
Lapidary — rockhounding
'— iewelry making ... add up to
a fascinating creative art!
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Inyo County has elected to share its beautiful Chalfant Valley Petroglyphs with visit- state if 1 " slot or l ' / 2 " slot.
ors. The Bishop Chamber of Commerce provides free guide folders with maps and All steel construction, bright
zinc plated. m>* r-n
text of "Petroglyph Tour." Most of the damage to the glyphs was done before the Type D Only 9 1 idU
self-guided tour was established. DEALER"^" PLUS POSTAGE. 2 LBS-
INQUIRIES Send for FREE Brochure Showing
and trails we have used for years could lands by taking action at once. Represen-
JNVITED. Other Models to Fit Any Vehicle.
be declared non-existant and closed. tative William Ketchum, who introduced \ l 141 Wiltsey Rd. S.E., Salem, OR 97302 /
Rockhound groups and other recrea- the bill for a two-million-acre desert land
tional organizations have been asked to giveaway, is said to close his newsletter
aid in the formulation of the definition.
B.L.M. will receive suggestions from
to constituents as follows: "No King
ever wielded a sceptre more powerful
The New, Powerful
groups and individuals between August than a 10 cent pencil in the hands of an
•-
15th and October 1st. For further infor- American Citizen when he sits down to
r >
mation, contact your district B.L.M. write his Representative." How right he
office. is!
It is not a secret that a very active
movement is underway to make the Des-
We cannot rely on the assurances and
promises of the B.L.M. Though their in-
2 inch
ert Region a place where man may only
walk. Preservationists are hard at work
tentions may be good, they fluctuate and
yield under the influence of various pres- Cold Dredge, Model 100
and using "no holds barred" schemes to sures put upon them. Only the concern- — weighs less than 30 lbs., and
take Public Land away from 97 percent of ed recreationist can save our rightful has many outstanding advant-
the people. Only through the personal heritage to use Public Lands. ages over conventional models.
commitment of every rock collector and — A specially designed high
The Interim Critical Management Plan
recreationist can we insure the continued pressure pump mounted on a gas
can be compared to the tip of an iceberg.
stingy 2 Cycle 1.6 h.p. O & R
use of our Public Lands. We must all Submerged underneath and hidden from
engine that delivers 70 psi when
write letters of protest to our Senators, view, is a large mountain of restrictions
restricted to 1/4" orfice. Comes
Congressmen and Chairman of Commit- and closures. Fellow rock collectors and equipped with a take apart
tees such as the Committee of Interior other desert enthusiasts, you have been enclosed impeller.
and Insular Affairs, National Parks and alerted. The future of your recreational — A new type jet that accepts
Recreation, Environment, etc., We must hobby lies solely in your hands. It is hop- the suction hose internally and
also advise our State Senators and As- ed you will act quickly and wisely. becomes larger in I.D. rather
semblymen of our desires. than restricts.
If you value your hobby and your right Note: If you do not know to whom to For further information write:
to use Public Land, the changes in the send your letters, just send a self-ad- OREGON GOLD DREDGE
Interim Critical Management Plan will dressed, stamped envelope to: Desert Mohawk Star Route 1A
not be acceptable. Though the future Committee List, Rt. 1, Box 18, Valyer- Springfield, Oregon 97477
looks dark, we can save our recreational mo, California93563. • Phone (503) 747-6069
Desert September 7974 75
Flash
Flood! by CLYDE H. SMITH
IT WAS MID-DAY in late August and don't want to get stuck out here!" I bend in the wash, looking for all the
unbearably hot. My companion, Dr. stopped the Jeep and stepped down to world like a giant porcupine —something
Homer Dodge, and I were exploring a the ground. It was like landing on hot reborn from a prehistoric age. It bound-
sizzling dry wash east of Capitol Reef coals as the scorching sand penetrated ed along at a frightening speed . . .
National Park, Utah, by Jeep. Homer is my sneakers. Nearby, a tiny trickle of hissing and grinding . . . right toward
twice my senior at age 85 and a veteran super-heated water was the only sem- us!
of many excursions in these parts. He blance of "Big Muddy" —which was the Homer leaned out the window and
seems to enjoy the heat but my Eastern name designated on the USCS map for yelled, "Let's get out of here, that
blood is too thick for the desert's 110 de- our present location. thing's a FLASH FLOOD."
grees—in the shade. "Homer, I think you're right," I said, For a split-second my feet felt as
Somewhere to the west, about 20 "this stuff looks unstable and we'd have though they were anchored to the desert
miles or so, a violent storm was battering a heck of a time getting out of here if we floor. I thought the sand's fiery flames
Capitol Reef's craggy Waterpocket Fold. ever stalled." I scanned the far side for surely must have fused my sneakers to
From down in the wash we caught an oc- some way to detour up the bank. It look- the ground. Then Homer bellowed
casional glimpse of black thunderheads ed rather steep and much too soft and I again, "Let's go! FLASH FLOOD!"
and jagged streaks of lightning —follow- was about to suggest we turn around In two giant leaps I reached the Jeep
ed by long continuous rumbles that re- when a faint noise from somewhere up and floored the accelerator as I landed in
sembled an artillery duel. Half-hearted- the wash caught my attention. At first it the seat. As we sped toward the far
ly, I wished some of the clouds and rain was muffled and hard to distinguish bank, I could see from the corner of my
would come our way and cool us, but it from the distant thunder, but its volume eye what I had imagined as a giant porky
seemed highly unlikely since the storm increased measurably within moments. was actually the leading edge of the
had remained stationary all morning. Licking my parched lips, I squinted flood —a wall of dirty water bristling with
"Better have a look at that soft area into the shimmering heat. Suddenly, a sticks, brush, trees and debris. In its
just ahead," cautioned Homer, "we strange, spiny object appeared around a wild plunge, it threatened to engulf us,
16 Desert/September 1974,
This is an account
of an Easterner's first
experience with one
of the desert's
most treacherous
phenomenas. Much
publicized for its
arid, barren
wastelands, where
the importance of a
supply of water is
paramount, the
desert can turn things
around suddenly
and create a
devastating threat
to life and limb!
vehicle and all! mense volume of water, rising at an in- anything could be worse than what
"Give 'er gas," cried Homer, "that credible rate. Parts of the bank began to we've just come through."
thing will overturn us and grind us to crumble as the churning current raced In a few moments, the full force of the
pieces!" All four wheels were screaming along tearing at everything. We moved scouring dirt cloud hit us with all its fury.
at full tilt as we reached the bank and to a higher level where we could look We could feel the Jeep lifted off the
charged up the dizzy angle of loose sand. back on the surging monster below. ground at times as we inched along
Dirt flew in all directions and the roar of Upon reaching the rim above the on our blind course. How ironic, I
the flood was now like an express train wash, we were faced with a new threat. thought, to have just escaped from
bearing down upon us. The vicious storm which had been drowning and now to be blown away in
The front wheels reached the top of around Capitol Reef all morning was now the wind, or perhaps smothered in sand!
the bank and for a few agonizing barreling toward us with all the fury of My mind wandered back over the
moments we seemed to hang there, sus- a tornado! An ugly column of swirling events that had led us to our present pre-
pended, while our rear wheels dug help- dirt preceded a billowing black thunder- dicament. We were both Easteners, but
lessly in the sliding sand. So close and head, raked by streamers of rain and Homer's first love seemed to be the
yet so far—perhaps a whisker from ob- hail. Fierce forks of lightning zig-zagged West where he had trekked for many
livion—then the wildly clawing front in all directions like the lashing head of a years through its canyons and deserts.
wheels found solid ground and in one serpent. But above all else, he enjoyed canoeing
shuddering lunge pulled us from certain " W e ' l l never make it to the highway," most and included among his accom-
doom! Glancing out my open window, I advised Homer. "Every little wash will plishments was a trip in which he retrac-
could see the flood pouring below like be a roaring torrent within minutes." ed all of John Wesley Powell's original
chocolate syrup! It was "Big Muddy" all Wind began to buffet us as the leading route down the Green and Colorado
in one instant—a mighty river of frothing edge of the storm swooped in upon us. Rivers —in an open canoe!
brown waves. "Let's make a try for the highway," I Enticed by Homer's tales of adven-
Following the leading wave was an im- said to Homer. "Sure doesn't seem like
Desert/September 7974 17
The birth of a flash flood ture, I was persuaded to join him for a on our very last day before returning
showing the suddeness of month in Canyonlands and Arches Na- East that we decided to make a short run
its fury. Sun-dried desert tional Park, Utah, where we penetrated up "Big Muddy" wash. It was almost
topsoil, with its hard-baked surface, some of the most fascinating country I dry as a bone, and after all, the storm
cannot absorb the volume of had ever seen by Jeep. The maze of was miles away—but it just shows, one
water that occurs during monumental formations, deep canyons must never underestimate the desert.
heavy rains. This water builds up and natural stone sculptures were far re- Evidentally the cloudburst at Capitol
with amazing swiftness and moved from anything I'd seen in a New Reef had built into gigantic proportions,
within minutes a quiet desert wash England landscape. forcing virtual tidal waves down all the
can become a roaring wall Day after day we watched enormous washes in the immediate areas.
of water and debris. This photo sequence thunderstorms build around us, but none "Looks like we're finally going to get
[I to r] was taken at ever came our way. A few times dark some rain." Homer's remarks jolted me
five-second intervals. clouds collected over our heads and I back to reality as big splotches began
could see streamers of rain reaching hitting the windshield. The sand storm
downward —but none ever touched the had diminished and now sheets of rain
ground —it evaporated in the heat long were driving toward us. The drops were
before it got to us! Jokingly, I kept a combination of dirt and water and land-
wishing for a rain storm —anything to ed on the Jeep like tiny mud bombs. For
cool the desert's melting furnace. But some reason, the Jeep started to slide
we'd gone through a whole month around like it was on a greased
without so much as a drop, and so it was platter—and the wheels felt funny.
n Desert/September 7974
BACK
ISSUE
SPECIAL
Complete
'65 '66 '67 '68
VOLUMES
Complete
'70 '71 '72
VOLUMES
9 EACH
1973
VOLUME
I stopped and got out in the driving sunlight followed, turning the desert into
rain. Huge flaps of mud clung to the tires an eerie sea of swirling mist as the rapid-
— and everywhere I stepped, great clods ly diminishing runoff evaporated from
stuck to my sneakers. It was like growing its surface.
snowshoes! We were crossing a section I decided to walk ahead a little ways to
of soil that had just enough clay in it check the ground. 1 had gone only a few
which, when mixed with water, turned to dozen yards when I came to the lip of a
"Rain Barrel"
gumbo mud! Cautiously, I oozed the bluff—and there, almost 300 feet
Assorted issues
Jeep along on lumpy tires through the straight down was the Fremont Valley! 1959 to 1965
5
torrential rain, slipping and sliding while
flaps of mud flew off like jettisoned re-
The main highway was directly below,
while paralleling it in a gigantic serpen- 00
treads. Hail the size of moth balls began tine course, was the awesome Fremont
coming down — its deafening clatter River—normally a tiny placid stream- Package of 20
sounded like a million hammers going all now swollen to enormous flood propor-
at once. Visibility was cut to zero, so we tions.
came to a grinding halt! Off to one side we found a nice easy Mail all orders to: DEPT. T
Then, quite suddenly, it was all over. grade leading from the bluff, and in a DESERT Magazine
It was almost as if someone had turned short time we were safely back on the Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
off a faucet—everything opened before highway—two Easterners who would Personal check or money order must
us while the wall of rain and hail moved take home wonderful memories of the accompany your order.
east. Within minutes, a brilliant burst of Be sure to include your zip code.
West—and a flash flood! •
Desert/September 1974
79
VERY MUCH at home in the driest and
hottest of desert scrub and foothills is a
dapper little black bird with a big Creek
name which fits him so well it has be-
come the one by which he is known to
one and all. This is none other than the
phainopepla nitens ("black shining
robe") or the Phainopepla for short. Ar-
rayed in his glossy black plumage, he is
a very good looking bird, what with his
high head crest and bright red eyes, and
those classy white wing patches that
flash out when he flies. He is also a bird
of parts, being an accomplished nest
builder, a good provider and an exceed-
ingly vigilant sentinel.
He is, furthermore, a bird of more
errV
than passing interest to scientists, flour-
ishing as he does under adverse desert
conditions. Investigations into how he
does it have turned up some interesting
sidelights on this bird and his affairs,
and even more importantly, it has
by K. L. BOYNTON / ^ ^ '
produced some new facts about plant-
©1974
animal relationships —in this case a bal-
ance in nature that makes year around
survival in the desert possible for him.
2l Desert/September 7974
The Phainopep)s., being a flycatcher
by trade, captures insects in the air, a
feat requiring complicated wing work—a
flight style marked by bursts of speed,
quick turns, sudden brakes to slow wing
beats —all useful in the pursuit of dodg-
ing insects. Like many a flycatcher, the
Phainopepla also has a faceful of bristles
around his bill. Sticking out in all direc-
tions when he opens his mouth, they
greatly increase its trap-area, thus
making the catching of larger insects a
cinch. They also act as a net for scooping
up billfuls of those swarming insects too
tiny to be grabbed individually.
Naturally enough, such high protein
groceries as insects are not available in
sufficient quantities in the desert during
the winter months, so the Phainopepla
shifts over to berries for his staple food,
mainly those of the mistletoe. And here-
in lies a tale of plant-animal partnership
where both mutually profit.
Mistletoe, as all desert hands know, is
to be found in clumps and clusters in the
branches of tall shrubs and trees. Long
adapted to killing heat and arid living,
the desert species of mistletoe has only
scale-like leaves, but its stems are
green. Since they contain chlorophyl, the
plant can manufacture part of its own
This ironwood tree shows masses of desert mistletoe that owes so much of their
food. It is, however, dependent on its
existence to the Phainopepla.
host tree for water and soil minerals, and
hence while it is not completely a para- sect-lean months for the desert birds. One energetic builder observed by the
site, it is partially so. Its white berries Not all maturing at once, mistletoe's Rands seized a twig fragment, and mak-
are plump and full of sticky juice, and berries are to be found somewhere in the ing a high circular flight to the mes-
while NOT for human consumption, are desert six months of the year—Novem- quite he selected, installed the twig on a
free from the usual bitter or pungent ber to April —a remarkable long fruiting limb. Then, with much showy flying, he
repellents usually found in desert plants. season —and it is upon these berries that returned with a wisp of tent caterpillar
Inside are many very hard seeds. wandering bands of Phainopeplas live, web to bind it into place. Work proceed-
What happens is that the Phainopep- and upon which, at family raising time, ed apace, each piece being brought via a
la, after stuffing himself on berries, flies much of their domestic economy is showy flight detour. A cup was well on
to a favorite tree perch. As he cleans his based. This is a matter of importance the way to being formed, when a female
bill along the limb, some seeds caught in since the Phainopeplas, with a way of (dressed demurely in a dark grey with
his mouth adher to the limb with their their own when it comes to affairs of the white edgings) came into view. The nest
sticky coating. But this is not all, for the heart, further complicate matters in local work ceased abruptly. By dint of fast
bird sits quietly digesting his meal and populations by apparent differences of wing work, the gentleman caught up
in due time his feces drops onto limbs opinion on exact protocol. Around the with her and, flying in a pattern of circles
below with more of the hard seeds which Tucson desert region, for instance, the over his territory, invited her to join in a
have made the long journey through his team of ornithologists A. L. Rand and R. courtship flight. No sale. The lady con-
insides intact. Once on the host tree, the M. Rand, found it went like this: tinued on her way, and the gentleman
seeds in time germinate, thrusting root- By the end of February, gentlemen went back to his nest building.
like extensions through the bark to Phainopeplas have staked out their ter- But not for too long. Catching sight of
connect with the tree's vascular tissue ritories and are ready for love. But do another traveling lady, he shot off on his
and the water and minerals carried they sit around singing while awaiting circular flight again, and this one not
there. Now the mistletoe is all set to go the arrival of ladies also in the same only flew his circle with him, but came
on growing —planted, as it were, by the frame of mind? They do not. They get and inspected his nest. She also stayed
Phainopepla. right at their nest building, with the for lunch, dining on four mistletoe ber-
In turn, the mistletoe's fruiting sched- main push well underway by the middle ries he picked and fed her. Things looked
ule is timed nicely, taking care of the in- of March. very good, indeed. But, at this point—
Desert/September 7974 27
A female Phainopepla. Photo by Jim Cornett.
obviously rested and refreshed, she sud- with building materials, paused often in nutritious mistletoe berries After some
denly took wing —and kept right on go- the midst of his labors and sat for long 19 days in the nest, the young birds are
Nest No. 1, with its cup formed of bark periods just looking far, far off into ready for their first flight, and parental
and twig fragments bound so neatly with space. Was he pondering the percen- chores begin to taper off.
eibweb, was all completed, and Nest No. ages, and wondering how in hades this When not nesting, the Phainopeplas
2 well underway before another candi- whole thing got started? are a gregarious lot, traveling in small
Despite the apparent meditations of flocks, their wanderings during the win-
d.iie showed up. Dropping everything,
this non-conformer, Phainopepla court- ter dictated by the availability of mistle-
the gentleman went into his courtship
ship etiquette produces results, with so toe berries. As biologist James Crouch's
flight pattern, and this time proved that,
many households set up that the working fine work showed, they do little else
indeed, advertising by flying and dili-
nests may only be about 75 feet apart. during this time but gorge themselves on
gent nest building does pay off. This The normal clutch size is two, the eggs berries and then go perch and digest
lady indicated that she was seriously being rather pretty, grayish or greenish- them. What with such assured seed dis-
interested in setting up housekeeping. white with spots of brown, black or even persal thus going on, it would seem that
So he went back to his nest building. lilac. Incubation starts with the first one, the desert would be overgrown with mis-
Tearing down Nest Nos. 1 and 2, he with both parents sharing the sitting de- tletoe, particularly since bluebirds,
set about building a brand new one in a tail. The thing is done in style, with robins, quail, linnets, mocking birds,
Int ation that pleased the lady, she, changes of the guard taking place at thrashers and some warblers also dine
meanwhile, sitting in the shade eating intervals of 7 to 20 minutes, the sitter on them from time to time. Since most of
mistletoe berries which he stopped work calling KUK-KUK for a shift end, and these are perchers and digesters too,
to feed her. both CRU-EEing politely as they change they also add to the planting brigade.
\s Phainopepla romances go, this was places. Botanist R. B. Cowles got interested in
a whirlwind affair. One bird, with a Fourteen to 17 days later, the young- this seed dispersal situation and wonder-
p.iich of dull feathers on his flank, built sters make their debut, and as it is now ed, since it seemed so sure-shot, why the
tnee nests in March. No success. He spring, insects are becoming more abun- plant had to produce so many seeds un-
finally started singing as an added at- dant, so the proper protein is on hand for less the survival rate must be low.
traction. Another, although showing he chick-stuffing, supplemented by the Checking only deepened the mystery, for
could make better than 30 trips per hour waning supply of succulent and highly he found that most of the big crop of
2' Desert/September 7974
seeds was indeed fertile, and thanks
mainly to the Phainopeplas, enormous A FAMILY VACATION
numbers of these seeds were successful-
ly placed on host plants and put forth
that bright brownish red root-like radicle
Cniise
for attachment. So why didn't more of
them go on and grow to be adult parasit-
ic plants?
Luke Powell
as . . .Captain, First Mate and
After more Sherlocking, Cowles de- Crew of a twin-engine 43'
cided that one of the biggest mistletoe Luxuriously equipped Boatel Unmatched Beauty with clean air,
losses occurs because the Phainopepla, Aqua Sports Paradise! sunny days, and starlit nights.
the self-advertiser, dearly loves to sit on A Change of Pace! FREE BROCHURES
the topmost branches of a tree. In the
rt
GEOGRAPHICALLY SPEAKING, Cali-
fornia's Coso Range lies west of Death
Valley, and east of the Sierra Nevada
Mountains. Its arid climate of today is in
sharp contrast to the weather patterns of
past historic eras.
A great pluvial, or rainy season, ex-
tended into this area after the last Ice
Age, some 10,000 years ago. The rain
filled the natural depressions in the land,
forming a series of great lakes known as
the Pliestocene Lakes. When Owens
Lake reached capacity, water overflowed
into a stream at the southern end, send-
ing water into the Searles and China
Lake basins. Years of drought followed
the pluvial periods, and today these
overflow lakes are marked by glistening
salt playas and dry mosaic lake beds.
The sun-parched land was once again
relieved by a smaller pluvial period as
recently as 5,000 years ago. Water again
flowed in the stream beds, vegetation
flourished, game again roamed the land
and man migrated to the area. The ac-
tual dates that man first occupied the
Coso Range is still a matter of theoriza-
tion, but from the dating of the artifacts
he left behind, we hope someday to have
the answers we seek.
The discovery of early man's resi-
dence in the Coso Range is accredited to
by HELEN WALKER
a sheep rancher by the name of John
Carricut. In the early 1920s, Carricut and
his flock weathered a two-day blizzard in
a narrow gorge that we know today as
The solid body anthropomorphs and a group of stickmen across the upper pages are Petroglyph Canyon. When the storm
from "Rock Drawings of the Coso Range" by Crant-Baird-Pringle. Opposite page: cleared, Carricut discovered the rock
Photo by Jack Walker shows an assortment of sheep, medicine bags and shields. walls above his flock were covered with
Desert/September 1974 27
rock drawings. He marveled at it, then above the surface. No evidence of per- collecting trips, women and children pre-
lorgot it for the moment. Years later, he manent villages have been located, but pared the food for storage, and the
• howed his discovery to Vernon Smith, rock rings support the fact that pit men's thoughts turned to the big sheep
who wrote of the rock drawings for Des- houses were built as protection against hunt. A director of the hunt was chosen,
ert Magazine, in March of 1944. winter cold. The name "Coso" was or self-appointed, and work begun.
Interest in the drawings, and the given to the land by these Shoshoni peo- Blinds were built on cliffs above the
icople who made them, has been escal- ple—it is a word in their language mean- gorges, and at one end of the gorge a
,iled in recent years. Under supervised ing hot, and it is thought to have been an fence was erected to prevent escape of
research, the drawings have been index- association with the natural hot springs. the captured animals. Rocks were stack-
i d at more than 14,000, and are thought Even in this new land of their choos- ed at points where shadows would sil-
be be the largest display of rock art in ing, life was not easy, and food was not houette dummy hunters —a supplement
North America. They offer a key to early plentiful. Seasonal trips were made to to a limited group of huntsmen.
occupation of the Coso Range, and are gather nuts and seeds, and trapping When all preparations were complete,
our window to the lives of the early resi- game was a daily chore. In mid-summer, some tribesmen drove the sheep into the
dents that migrated to the area. groups traveled to Death Valley to collect narrow confines of the gorge, while the
It is believed that early residents of mesquite seeds which were ground into men stationed in the blinds attacked the
I his range were people of the Western flour. Late summer was the time to climb animals from above with their weapons.
Mioshoni Indian tribes. They migrated to the higher elevations of the Coso moun- Their method was successful, as there
ihe Cosos when their homeland in cen- tains to collect pinyon nuts. Seeds of was no escape for the animals once they
tral California and southwestern Nevada various other plants were harvested as entered the confines of the trap.
no longer produced adequate vegetation seasonal crops became available. Fresh Perhaps to create a magic that would
to support their families. They brought game was taken where and when it was assure a successful sheep hunt, or per-
with them only meager belongings and available. Owens Lake provided ducks haps in gratitude of a hunt just complet-
an instinct to find land upon which they and water fowl in the early fall. Rabbits ed, the first drawing was placed on the
could survive. were plentiful and easily trapped or wall of the narrow gorge. Whatever the
In their new land, they were quick to snagged on demand. Large game, it is reason, the dark-surfaced, basaltic walls
take advantage of the natural resources believed, were taken chiefly by organiz- of the gorge became the blackboard
- making camp near the running ed hunts —perhaps the only communal upon which these early people communi-
s.lreams of the narrow gorges, and near effort that was participated in. cated their impressions of life and envi-
tin 1 hot springs that bubbled their vapors When families had returned from seed ronment. The art work became a tradi-
tion, and in the centuries that followed,
Decorative dress of the anthropomorphs. Photos by Jack Walker. the art work became a mural of life style
of the early Coso Range people.
Through research, the display of rock
has been classified into three styles. The
naturalistic art, which is representative
or realistic of the subject; stylized, a sim-
plified or conventionalized drawing, still
recognizable; and abstract, a decorative
pattern, having no reference to an object
of nature.
A time factor places the drawings into
three phases, also. The Early Period,
being the time when the first drawings
were made. In this category we find
many sheep, for the most part, poorly
drawn. The horns were drawn from a
side view, and only a few showed the de-
tail of hoofs. The atlatl, which was the
weapon of that period, appeared with the
hook end up, and an exaggerated size of
stone weight at the bottom. A few
square-bodied anthropomorph figures
appeared, but were not placed in any
association to the sheep or atlatls. Ab-
stract designs were scattered, again with
no association with other art work,
The second, or Transitional Period,
was marked by the introduction of a new
weapon —the bow and arrow. This new
Desert/September 1974
weapon appeared in the hands of highly
stylized stick men. One artist expressed
an incident by placing two stick men fac-
ing one another with bows drawn—one
can only ponder the reason, and the out-
come of that particular event! The
Transitional Period was also marked by a
new concept of sheep horns —they now
began to appear in a head-on view. This
view was to replace the Early Period side
view in all future drawn sheep.
Another new design of this period was
a sack, complete with handle and
fringe—thought to be a medicine bag.
Anthropomorphs appeared with square,
patterned bodies, and clothed in dresses
— the beginning of the more eleborate
art of the Late Period. Imagination in de-
sign began to enter into the artwork, this
being noted by a scattering of elaborate
abstract drawings. A shield, about a foot
square, with a circular or oval design in-
side the incised outline, was placed aim-
lessly among other drawings. These first
shields were simple, and poorly done,
in comparison with the work of the next
and last period.
The drawings of this last time se-
quence, the Late Period, showed a much
Early Period sheep, and some Late Period, showing small dog at heels of the sheep.
higher level of execution, and a trend to-
ward more stylization of figures. Sheep bow and arrow. This final migration took occurred about 200 B.C.
often appeared life-size, and often in as- place about 1000 A D . Fortunately for those involved in the
sociation with the hunt. Some were The rock art these people left behind research of the Coso Range, the area is
drawn with spears or shafts sticking in represented many man-hours, and much protected from vandals. All of the caves
their backs, others in direct line of stick patience on the part of the artist. He and sites of rock art are confined within
men with drawn bows. used a sharp-pointed implement, and the boundaries of the Naval Weapons
Animals other than sheep were intro- struck it with a hammer-like tool. Each Center. Guided tours are extended to in-
duced. A small dog with a long tail bent strike broke through the chocolate-color- terested groups, and information may be
over its back is seen at the heels of the ed cover of the basaltic granite blocks, had by writing to the Maturango Muse-
sheep. fracturing the tiny crystals and allowing um at China Lake. •
Stick people were drawn in groups,de- the opaque effect to stand out in relief.
picting more social life. The anthropo- Sometimes, for effect, the area inside
morphs were drawn two and three feet in the pecked outline was scraped or
length, and had detailed dress, earrings, abraded, exposing a larger area of con-
ARIZONA
and very elaborate headdress.
Shields were the only abstract pat-
trast. G ook Book
Dating of the drawings in the Coso
terns seen in the Late Period. They were Range is only approximate, and is arriv- By Aland
developed into the most technical art- Wfioo* Mildred Fischer
ed at by two methods. The patina, or
work, and were by far the most detailed desert varnish that forms the dark coat- Includes sourdough
i J1B<IO*i and Indian fried bread
work of the group. ing on the grey granite rock, is thought recipes, as well as
P M«STERN_
The Late Period was terminated when to have started formation after the little ' :'<KftKQHAPHGtWCTS,
other mouth-watering
favorites Unique col-
the Shoshonean people left the Coso pluvial period, at a time when the cli- lection of hard-to-find
Range and migrated to the north and mate turned hot and dry. This would Western cooking. Pa-
perback, 142 pages.
northeast. The reason for their migration give us a clue that the drawings were
is thought to have been the disappear- first made approximately 3000 years Calif, residents $3.00
ance of the big horn sheep. No one can ago. add 6% sales ta X
Please include 25c
say for sure if the sheep left to avoid Dating by subject matter focuses on for postage & handling.
harassment by hunters, or of their the Transitional Period, when the bow
number were diminished by killings with Magazine Book Shop
and arrow replaced the atlatl. The intro-
P.O. Box 1318, Palm Desert, Calif. 92260
the new and more effective weapon —the duction and use of this new weapon
Desert/September 1974
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\bove: Three miles southwest of the ghost town of White Mountain City, Crystal Hill
provides good quartz crystal collecting for rockhounds. The "light spots" on the hill-
side are part of several diggings. Below: Beginning with prehistoric Indian, Deep
Springs Valley has played host to man down through time. The earliest residents left
a record of their presence on stone in many places throughout the region.
ting. Combining the best in mountain reached crowded mining camps. The fall
and desert habitat, visitors will find of 1861 found a party of men, including
trails to hike, old mines to explore, rocks Dan Wyman whose name would be given
to collect, challenging 4WD routes to fol- to the main creek entering the valley,
low, plus a streamside campsite located coming to locate placer ground. Finding
among the ruins of an olci ghost town. a promising area, they wintered along
Usage of Deep Springs Valley dates Cottonwood Creek. Many other miners
back to prehistoric time when early In- were working claims in the general area.
dians camped, hunted, gathered pine Wyman Creek spills out of the moun-
nuts and patiently recorded their activi- tains at the northwestern corner of Deep
ties on stone. Several fine petroglyph Springs Valley. Rushing toward a playa
sites and chipping grounds are located at the southeastern end, it completes an
within the region. Recent Indian tenancy 18-mile journey from its headwaters,
dates back several hundred years. As over 10,000 feet high, in the White
late as 1861, Piute Chef Joe Bowers had Mountains. The mouth of the canyon
an established camp at Antelope opens into a broad, creek-cut alluvial
Springs. fan, which was ready-made for a settle-
Probably the first white men to visit ment; and, in 1861, a number of pros-
the valley were prospectors who left the pectors called "White Mountain City"
Mother Lode to try their luck elsewhere. home.
Rumors concerning placer gold discover- The " C i t y " is remembered in histori-
ies in the White Mountains eventually cal annals for the part it played in an
Desert/September 1974 33
The ironic ending to this story clearly
illustrates man's long record of inhum-
anity to his fellow man. Several years
later, Byrnes decided he wanted Ante-
lope Springs for his own use and forced
Chief Joe to give up his camp. Again,
Chief Joe went to his white friends in
Owens Valley for help. They quickly
formed a posse and forced Byrnes to va-
cate.
Mining has been intermittent in the
Deep Springs Region for over a hundred
years. Probably the more notable mines
include the Lincoln (Silver Dome) —sil-
ver; Pine Mountain Group —gold; Gold
Wedge —gold; Westgard (Chalmers) —
lead and silver; Bull Domingo—lead and
silver; Wilkerson —gold plus the Cotton-
wood and Crooked Creek Placers. Tung-
sten occurs at the Emergency Group of
'Hard rock mining" is required to obtain the crystals. Following a quartz vein will Claims and the Deep Springs Valley De-
i then lead to vugs of clear, smoky-tipped and smoky specimens. posits contain molybdenum. The Inyo
election fraud. Even in those days, there Prospectors were often the target of an Chemical Company attempted to extract
was hanky-panky in politics! A request attack and one frightening encounter potash from Deep Springs Playa in the
for a polling place at Deep Springs Val- took place at Deep Springs Valley in No- 1920s. Evidently, the deposits were not
ley led to the establishment of Big vember, 1864. Thinking the hostilities extensive enough for commercial opera-
Springs Precinct in August, 1861—just were over, three miners — Mathew, Crow tions, as no production has been report-
in time for September elections. When and Byrnes —were working a claim four ed.
the new precinct cast 521 votes for Gov- miles north of the Gilbert Ranch (now Today, Deep Springs Valley remains
ernor, Senator and Assemblyman, one Deep Springs Ranch). Mathew was pre- much as it always has —a quiet retreat
defeated candidate became suspicious. paring dinner when an Indian and his for man. The site of White Mountain
He paid a visit to White Mountain City squaw came into camp seeking food. City is marked by ruins of a dozen stone
and found less than 50 men in the entire Caught off guard as he responded to cabins. An old, small but beautifully
district! Lengthy hearings disclosed the their request, Mathew was shot in the crafted rock furnace stands as a lonely
ballots and poll lists were "lost." Fraud jaw. Simultaeously, another shot ended monument to the little " c i t y " of hardy
was proven and, eventually, two defeat- Crow's life as he was working the mine men. The ghost town site makes a good
ed candidates were seated. windlass. camping area, providing a fine view of
Spring of 1862 brought Indian prob- Byrnes was trapped at the bottom of a the valley. There are no facilities though
lems. Piute Chief Joe Bowers, residing 60-foot shaft into which the Indians water is available from Wyman Creek.
in the valley, was friendly to white men, dropped large boulders in an attempt to Please take your trash with you. There
but many other Indians did not share his kill him. Though seriously wounded and are no "pickups" here!
feeling. When an irate group ordered the believed dead by the Indians, Mathew A typical back-country road (maintain-
prospectors along Cottonwood Creek to managed to reach his gun and opened ed to service the power line) leads west
leave, Chief Joe came to their assist- fire. His shots missed their mark, but the to Wyman Canyon. Narrow, winding and
ance. Declaring the men were in his ter- Indians hastily departed. Thinking his rough in spots, it follows along the creek
ritory, he temporarily halted the trouble. partners were both dead, Mathew head- then claws its way up a steep-sided
However, he advised them to move out ed for the Owens Valley. He was found mountain when the canyon closes to only
as his delaying tactics appeared to have by a rancher and eventually recovered stream width. Traveling through pic-
only deterred the hostile Indians mo- from his wound. turesque Granite Valley, it again returns
mentarily. Taking the Chief's advice, the At the bottom of the shaft, Byrnes had to creek-side and eventually joins the
men cached their mining equipment and been able to evade the rocks. However, Bristlecone Pine road at an elevation of
left the diggings. Many others followed the Indians had taken the windlass rope 10,000 feet. Following Wyman Creek up
suit. and he was trapped in the shaft. Luckily, from high desert country to pine forests
If this can be called a "skirmish," it Chief Joe came to the claim. Though un- on the crest of the White Mountains
was the first of many that occurred dur- able to pull Byrnes out, he managed to makes a beautiful drive. Several four-
ing the next six years. Early settlers in supply him with water before heading to wheel-drive trails branch off the main
the Owens Valley region bore the brunt Owens Valley for help. A party of 30 men road and lead to "cliff-hanging" mines.
of the Indians' wrath and a number of went to Byrne's rescue. He was hauled Most of them have long been idle, but
people, both Indian and white, were kill- out of the shaft after five days imprison- they are still under claim.
ed. ment, none the worse for wear. Not for the timid, Wyman Creek Road
W Desert/September 1974
is sometimes impassable. Many side-tri- Canyon for some 10 miles to several old at the base of the hill makes a good
butaries empty into the creek and the mines. For a guide to serious exploring, campsite.
combined runoff from heavy storms of- purchase the Blanco Mountain and Lida Deep Springs Valley is a special place
ten carries sizable boulders which cut topographical maps for those who prefer "doing it them-
away at the canyon walls and wipe out Of particular interest to rockhounds is selves." There are no sign posts to direct
sections of the road. Water level marks, Crystal Hill, less than a mile from the you, no marked trails to follow, no camp-
30 feet above streambed, indicate the highway. Veins of quartz containing grounds, no gasoline stations or grocery
depth of water that has rushed wildly crystals will be found in a conical- stores. You must come prepared to ex-
down the canyon in recent years. shaped, granite hill. Clear, smoky-tip- plore and find its many delightful reces-
There are several dirt roads heading ped, smoky and milky crystals from one- ses on your own. In this day of more and
into the mountains from the highway half to eight inches in length may be ob- more control and restrictions on the use
along the western side of Deep Springs tained by hard-rock mining. You will of our mountains and desert, Deep
Valley. A four-wheel-drive trail leads need a shovel, pick, sledge and chisels to Springs Valley is a welcome change from
north up the North Fork of Birch Creek dig into the veins. A level, cleared area organized living and playing. •
WH ITE
\ ANCIENT
BRISTLECONE
PINE AREA
^-A
("W* , I NATIONAL \ FOREST ;
eep Springs Ranch
I (Priwot* College]
DO NOT DISTURB
w Crystal''
MTNS
X
V
Graded 4 W-D Trails
I
Antelope \ .
tJ
Crystal Hill
121 '
Bristlecone
Pine R o a d 1
"Wattgord Pax
Bristleconel
HWV i Wesfgarcl
Pass
395
Bishop
</,,
"Deolh Volley
INYO COUNTY
Desert/September 1974
Although the Apache Indian was one of the
finest fighting machines the world has ever
seen, his improvident habits kept him in per-
petual confusion and turmoil. He was always
in serious need of food, arms, ammunition
and horses. To him, these items were totally
expendable without thought for the future
Nana's
and he always required dependable outside
sources of resupply. Whiile settlers, freight
wagons, mule trains, and even individual
travelers felt the continual weight of Apache
need for material and understandably felt im-
Finest
Put-On
posed upon when they were sometimes
forced to give up their very lives as well as
their worldly goods in order to support the
raiding Indians. The Apache was also the
victim of circumstances. His ancestors had
long known many sources of raw gold in the by JOHN S. SOUTHWORTH
land and lived to regret ever telling the
greedy whitemen where the "useless" yel-
low metal could be located. The Apache had
many sad experiences which convinced them
that they must forever after keep quiet con-
cerning the yellow metal. This they have me-
BESIDES HAVING an odd name and
ticulously done. Further, with no visible being no beauty, Apache Chief Nana was
means of support, the Apache could not walk a cob-rough character of the old school.
He lived the harsh life of the Apache
into just any border town with a sack of coin
tribesman, he got drunk on the raw na-
so he seldom bothered to keep any that tive liquors, he beat his wife when she
appeared incidentally in his loot. Barter de- needed it, he fought with his neighbor-
ing Apache tribes for no other reason
finitely had no significant place in the Apache than to keep his braves in top fighting
life style, so he lived with a supply and de- form, and he went out of his way to do
mand problem which continuously taxed his battle with the Mexicans south of the
present border.
ingenuity. This is the story of how one
He never became as well-known to the
Apache Chief solved his supply problems for American people as did his contempor-
his entire band for a whole winter without en- aries Cochise, Ceronimo, Victorio and
Mangas Coloradas, although his hard-
dangering any of his people. His success was
riding raids and exploits were more un-
such that, although he massacred 19 white- believable than the best those other
men in order to safeguard his secret, that fact worthies could muster. He was cold and
efficient rather than colorful with the re-
goes unnoticed in history and the event is re-
sult that he did not trigger enthusiastic
membered only for the gold at the Lost press reports from the frontier news-
Adams Diggings. paper correspondents. General George
Crook, the one army general who really
understood the complex nature of the
Apache and who was the most successful
Desert/September 7974
f#
• • •
.,~
W*01
- •
'
JOS'
officers and their scouts during the 1800s. Photo courtesy Arizona Historical Society.
in confining it, publicly stated that Nana and beyond, from the Colorado River far band performed their allotted tasks with
was the real brains of all the hostile down into Mexico and eastward across utmost precision, and not one of them
leaders. the Rio Grande. Their land was austere ever talked. He put together a fascinat-
For all his capabilities, Nana didn't and cruel, and so were they. ing scheme which was destined to pro-
leave many positive things to show for The coming of the white man cramped duce equipment and supplies sufficient
his long and violent life. But then, he the Apache style more than somewhat. to keep his whole band of 40 or so braves
really didn't have much to work with. While a few of the more restless chiefs plus their squaws and kids through one
His tribe raised a few simple crops in a and braves demonstrated against the whole winter. This wonderful plan of his
desultory sort of way, when and if the new establishment in a most modern would not require his braves to leave
mood struck them or an opportunity manner, old Nana studied the changing their camp, and best of all would not leak
presented itself. He was not adverse to situation and recognized many new and the secret of his gold-baited trap. His
raiding neighboring tribes for any useful interesting challenges. True, his terri- scheme was superior and it worked
items, including women and children as tory now had to be shared with unwel- almost perfectly.
well as the necessities of life such as come stangers, but they brought items of Chief Nana laid thorough plans. His
food, weapons, ammunition and horses. great new interest to him, items that trap needed unprocessed gold and a se-
His tribe got along and lived with its could be collected quite easily, at the cluded hideaway. The measure of his
many cousin tribes in a sort of armed same time offering a great deal of fine success on both counts is well document-
truce, gathered together under one red-blooded sport in the taking. So now, ed. There was very real gold and the
name by the white men who called them Nana could live off the white man as well chosen spot has not been located to this
what the Zunis called them, "apache" as the sunburned land, and he acted ac- day, though not from lack of trying. Per-
meaning "enemy." Any confederation cordingly. haps long-forgotten raids on Spanish or
the Apache might have had was ex- Being a good general, Nana put his Mexican gold shipments along the Rio
tremely loose, based mostly on language problems to work for him. He set out to Grande between Colorado and Santa Fe
ties and convenience. And if it wasn't implement one of his most successful or Sonora had already provided the per-
convenient, forget it. But they did a good coups, one for which he has never been fect bait.
job of controlling all of eastern Arizona given proper credit because he and his More likely, a raid on freighters
Desert/September 1974
no matter how obscure the trail. He
knew every step of the way, pointed out
landmarks, and make a special point of
showing the trail to Fort Wingate, near
present Gallup, where more supplies
could conveniently be obtained should
such become necessary. The Apache
plan assured that such would become
necessary.
The excited, expectant miners were 10
days out of Tucson when a very particu-
lar, very remote, and still unindentified
canyon was reached. According to their
willing guide, the canyon had only one
access, the one they were using. The de-
file was a typical Indian stronghold with
plentiful water, steep walls, and no un-
wanted visitors, but at the time of their
arrival it just happened to be crawling
with Apache Indians. Chief Nana and his
whole bloodthirsty crew were waiting to
greet the newcomers. Greatly out of
character, Nana welcomed the miners,
promised no harm, and allowed the
guide to show where to dig.
Gold beyond the wildest dreams greet-
ed the eyes of that ill-fated few almost
immediately. Gold in great lumps lay
beckoning just below the surface. Ex-
hausted as were those travelers from
many days of the trail, the gold fever was
hard upon them and they all found new
Typical Apache braves as photographed in the 1800s. Photo courtesy History Divi- strength to dig far into that first night,
sion, Los Angeles County Museum. ceasing only when they were fully con-
vinced that the gold would still be there
moving gold from recently-discovered planted in the idle gatherings of gold- on the morrow.
Rich Hill south of Prescott, Arizona, to hungry prospectors in that western It was still there the next day and the
the newly-established United States desert town. At the right moment, he day after that. The miners made plans to
Mint at Denver, Colorado, provided told of much gold to be had many days to stay the winter and the Indians, playing
Nana with the necessary gold, plus a few the northeast. His story, with its ring of their roles to the hilt, were more than
incidental animals, guns and ammuni- authenticity, had the expected effect and happy to have them. Construction of a
tion. In this latter case, Nana just divert- for the promise of a few dollars, a gun, log house was begun and plans made to
ed a shipment, in its entirety, to one of and a horse or two, he agreed to guide send a small party to Fort Wingate to
his favorite strongholds, there to pour the miners to the bonanza he knew. The bring back sufficient supplies for a long
out the gold in an area "about the size of more the merrier, as the guide put it, stay. The situation was all too perfect. It
a wagon bed" to await its rediscovery by since there was plenty for everyone and just couldn't last, and it didn't.
a chosen group of white men. Conven- a large party would be safer in that hos- Only one miner retained his common
iently and better to fully arouse the white tile land. Little did any of them realize sense through all the greed which blind-
man's deep lust for gold, Rich Hill nug- the fatal role each was to play as victims ed the rest. He had decided that his 60
gets were extremely large, large enough of Chief Nana's careful plot. Presum- pounds of raw gold was enough for any
to earn for an area at their source the de- ably, the large party was for its own ad- man and, feeling ill at ease in the ab-
scriptive name of "The Potato Patch." vantage. Actually, it was the other way normal situation, left the diggings with
And so it was that in late 1864, the around. A larger party would require the supply party which would follow the
stage was fully set for one of the west's more food which it would never live to Fort Wingate track so carefully pointed
bloodiest Indian massacres which is re- consume, but which the Apache would. out only a few days earlier.
membered today, more than 100 years Twenty-two prospectors were in the The single man made it safely back to
later, almost entirely as a lost mine group that headed northeast out of Tuc- Tucson with his load of gold, to sell it,
story. son. They traveled easily under the ex- and to live a while to enjoy the benefits
An Indian informer, well known to the pert direction of their volunteer guide thereof. His actions being fairly common
white men of Tucson, Arizona, was who never got lost or became confused, in those uncommon times and therefor
the scene that presented itself. The re- Adams himself spent most of the years
turning train, loaded down with all the which were left to him in a New Mexico-
impedimenta required to maintain 20 based search which yielded not the faint-
white men through a long winter, had est clue. No better success has been re- TREASURE HUNTERS
been ambushed, massacred to the last ported by any outsider in a hundred — PROSPECTORS —
man, and the animals with their loads of years of trying. Casual modern interest Metal-Mineral Detectors
food removed to parts unknown. Un- seems to center farther north in the can- DREDGES
wanted mining tools littered the grisly yon country, but persistent rumors point DRY WASHERS MAPS
BOOKS TOOLS ASSAY KIT
scene. toward the depths of the Cila Wilder-
SLUICE BOXES MINERAL LIGHTS
Thoroughly frightened, Adams and ness, an area which also happens to be LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT
his companion raced to warn those who convenient to Nana's home base at the Send 25c for catalog to:
remained at work in the base camp. warm springs near present-day Winston, AURORA
New Mexico. 6286 BEACH BLVD.
They were too late. Nana and his effi-
BUENA PARK, CALIF. 90620
cient followers were in the final stages of Old Chief Nana never admitted a [714)521-6321
wiping out every white they could get thing, not even when confronted by COE PROSPECTOR SUPPLY
their hands on. Already some of his Adams himself almost 20 years after the 9264 KATELLA
braves, unable to restrain themselves massacre. Nana went to his Happy Hunt- A N A H E I M , CALIF. 92804
[7141 995-1703
any longer and in a spirit of unbounded ing Ground shortly afterward, a wholly
enthusiasm, had begun a bloodcurdling incorrigible and totally unreconstructed
celebration of the complete success of Apache raider. He is probably still enjoy-
Nana's finest plan. The two shocked ing the excitement he caused during his
observers waited not for their belongings
nor their new-found, and now-lost,
long and eventful life, excitement which
even yet recurs every time someone
BURIED THEASUHE
wealth. Recognizing their fortunate po- arouses new interest in the Lost Adams
LOCATE IT FROM \ .
sition in surviving two massacres, they Diggings. A LONG DISTANCE \ *
took off for civilization with little more Perhaps you will be the modern-day
With my sensitive I
than their lives, a tall tale and one large searcher who will recover whatever gold-
nugget which Adams habitually carried en treasure remains where it was • | DIRECTIONAL LOCATOR
in his pocket. planted by one of the West's most suc- Send for my FREE INFORMATIVE
BROCHURE and read about this
Unknown to Adams, still another man cessful mine salters, and old Nana's eyes
remarkable device
made good his escape in his own man- will turn blood red, just as they did in the RESEARCH PRODUCTS
ner. Being in just the right place at the old days, when that time comes. • P.O. Box 13441BU Tampa, Fla. 33611
right time, he was able to avoid the total
extermination as planned by Nana. Cut
off from the natural escape route, he "Our Concern for You is Your Guarantee'
climbed the canyon wall, headed east United
without equipment or supplies, and
eventually reached safety in the pueblos
Campgrounds of Moah
of the Rio Grande.
Location: Facilities:
Each escapee told his own story, con-
• One mile north of Moab, and V2 mile Level, Shaded Sites
vinced his listeners, and precipitated in- National Parks 88 Tent and Trailer Spaces
terest ranging from curiosity to full- • Between Archesand Canyonlands Full Hookups
National Parks Swimming Pool
blown expeditions. For years, searchers • Near Dead Horse Point State Park Hot Showers
actively sought the lost Adams, David- Storeand Laundry
son, or Brewer Diggings, named accord- MiniatureGolf
BOTTLE COLLECTOR'S HANDBOOK by John BAJA [California, Mexico] by Cliff Cross. Up- DUTCH OVEN COOKBOOK by Don Holm.
T. Yount. Contains a listing of 1850 bottles and dated to include the new transpeninsular high- Wildlife editor of the Portland Oregonian, the
their market value (incuding the prized Jim way, the author has outlined in detail all of the author has spent his life exploring and writing
Beams), where to sell and buy, identifications, services, precautions, outstanding sights and about the outdoors, so his recipes for preparing
etc. Although contains few illustrations, it has things to do in Baja. Maps and photos galore, food in a Dutch Oven come from experience. If
more listings than any other bottle book. Paper- with large format. 170 pages, $3.95. you haven't had food cooked in a Dutch Oven,
back, 89 pages, $3.95. you haven't lived—and if you have, you will find
these recipes new and exciting culinary adven-
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE HANDBOOK by James MINES OF THE HIGH DESERT by Donald tures—as well as his tyle of writing. Heavy pa-
T. Crow and Cameron Warren. Packed into this Dean Miller. Describes life at the New Dale, Vir- perback, 106 pages, $3.95.
volume is material gathered from actual exper- ginia Dale, Supply and olher early mines of the
ience and presented in a detailed manner so it high desert country around Joshua Tree Nation-
can easily be followed and understood. Highly al Monument in California. Photos and map. Pa-
perback, $1.95. ANASAZI: Ancient People of the Rock, photo-
recommended for anyone interested in back graphs by David Muench, text by Donald G.
country driving. Paper, illus., 96 pages, $3.95. Pike. This outstanding, moving publication
gives the reader the unique opportunity to see
and understand the Anasazi civilization that
GHOSTS OF THE GLORY TRAIL by Nell Mur- existed some 2,000 years ago. Blending with
barger. A pioneer of the ghost town explorers and David Muench's suberb photography, historian
writers, Miss Murbarger's followers will be glad Donald Pike provides a fascinating text. Hard-
to know this book is once again in print. First pub- cover, profusely illustrated with color and black
lished in 1956, it is now in its seventh edition. The and white photos, 192 pages, $16.95 until Dec.
fast-moving chronicle is a result ol personal inter- 31, 1974, then $18.95.
views of old-timers who are no longer here to tell
their tales. Hardcover, illustrated, 291 pages,
$7.00. GOLDROCK Facts and Folktales by Iva L. Gei-
singer. The author describes this site on the
THE BAJA BOOK, A Complete Map-Guide to California Desert giving brief, but interesting re-
Today's Baja California by Tom Miller and El- counts of the facts and legends of the ghost
mar Baxter. Waiting until the new transpenin- towns, lost mines and personalities of the Gold-
sular highway opened, the authors have pooled rock area. Paperback, 65 pages, illus., $2.25.
their knowledge to give every minute detail on
gas stations, campgrounds, beaches, trailer
parks, road conditions, boating, surfing, flying, COMMON EDIBLE & USEFUL PLANTS OF
fishing, beachcombing, in addition to a Baja NEVADA LOST MINES AND HIDDEN TREAS- THE WEST by Muriel Sweet. A description with
Roadlog which has been broken into convenient URES* compiled by Dave Basso. The Secona artist drawings of edible (and those not to touch)
two-mile segments. A tremendous package for Edition is updated with photographs and a new plants along with how Indians and pioneers used
every kind of recreationist. Paperback, 178 look. Portions of U.S. Geological Survey topo- them. Paperback, 64 pages, $1.50.
pages, illus., maps, $7.95. graphic maps are provided to give the reader an
idea of the general locale in which the specific
story is centered. Paperback, 71 pages, $2.50.
COMPASS'YUKON'
METAL-MINERAL DETECTORS, COMPASS
WITH
ALL NEW B ibling has a variable composition. Thus the
mineral apatite always contains either of
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is simply known as apatite, with no pre-
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it is the mineral vivianite (iron phos-
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Mail your copy and first-insertion remittance • MINING
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44 Desert/September 7974
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GUMMED NAME and Address Labels: 1000— Please add 25 cents for postage & handling Calif, residents please add 6% state sales tax
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SUBSCRIPTION FORM September 1974
ADDRESS
M O V I N Gii ?
SO YOU WILL NOT MISS A N ISSUE Sign Gift Card:"From
NOTIFY US AS SOON A!> POSSIBLE.
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Desert/September 1974 45
told me many interesting stories about early
Arizona and the Indian Country.
I also met Dr. Douglas, from University of
Arizona, who was the expert on the age of
trees, as determined by tree rings.
I am glad that I had a chance to meet and
talk with these interesting people, as well as
the opportunity to see the real Rattlesnake
Dance at Hotevilla. It is great that you give
credit to such people in your magazine, who
help to preserve its history, and make it such
a wonderful place for those of us who love the
great outdoors, and hope to preserve it the
.• ••••• : ;
• I : ' , : . ' : ' ' • •• . way God intended it to be.
include stamped sell-.iddceised envelop*
HARRISON I. DIXON,
San Diego, California.
Light on Lantern . . .
SEPTEMBER 21, Third Annual California
Regarding the lantern found by Mr. John
Mexico Road Report. . .
Searchers Hunt, 1:00, Historic Pena Adobe
W. Dixon, Jr., I, too, have an identical lan- I have just read " A Run on Mexico 1 , " in near Vacaville, Calif. Ceneral Hunt, Ladies
tern which my father gave to me. Mine came the July issue. Mr. Smullen mentioned the Hunt, Junior Hunt. All TH'ers welcome. For
from Colorado and was used for many years narrowness and lack of shoulders of the new registration information, contact: Ed Tanner,
on the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad nar- highway, but he neglected to mention roving 415-223-3388.
row gauge line running from Durango to Sil- livestock and broken-down vehicles on the
verton. A retired employee of the line gave pavement. A danger warning is three rocks SEPTEMBER 21, "Recreation in Rocks"
two of these lanterns to my father and one of on the shoulder or center line of the road. sponsored by the Peninsula Gem and Geology
them was equipped with a cast iron base that We were towing light trailers and drove 45- Society, Rancho Shopping Center, Foothill
mounts on the wall. 50 miles per hour on the straight stretches; Expressway & South Springer Rd., Los Altos,
As I understand it, these lanterns were this is not a high speed highway. Calif. Featuring gold panning, cutting mater-
used for lighting inside the coaches, and sev- Mr. Smullen should have stopped in Santa ial, handmade jewelry, cut geodes, etc. No
eral can be seen on the walls inside the sta- Rosalia. There is an excellent bakery (pana- Dealers.
tion at Durango. deria) and, most important, an ice plant.
BOB SERVICE, Also, we found it more economical and con-
Newhall, California. OCTOBER 4-13, London Bridge Days, Lake
venient to change our dollars or cash travel-
Havasu City, Arizona. Third anniversary of
er's checks and obtain pesos at a bank. One
the opening of historic London Bridge on the
usually looses a little in the exchange when
The part of the lantern Mr. John W. Dixon lower Colorado River.
paying with dollars, expecially for gasoline.
picked up was the kerosene container which We had a most enjoyable and interesting
fits into the bottom portion of a railroad signal trip to Mulege and Loreto in late March. OCTOBER 5 & 6, Second annual Bisbee Gem
lantern. These little lanterns are very scarce STERLING KENDRICK, and Mineral Show, National Guard Armory,
and are a rare collector's item these days. Ridgecrest, California. Bisbee, Ariz. Exceptional exhibitions by not-
What Mr. Dixon found would have no value ed collectors and dealers.
as he would need the frame and globe of the We have just finished reading Mr. Smul-
lantern, also. len's article on the new Baja Highway, and OCTOBER 12-13, San Fernando Valley Min-
C. E. MILLER, enjoyed it very much. eral & Gem Society's Annual Show, North
Oakhurst, California. We drove it as far as Bahia Concepcion in Hollywood at the Valley Plaza Recreation
mid-May, and can report to your readers that Center, 12240 Archwood St. No admission.
Editor's Note: Our thanks to the many other government-sponsored gas stations along the Displays, auction, club sales, dealers, demon-
Desert readers who also identified Mr. Dix- way are all open, whether completed or not. strations. Contact: Opal Cockey, 6306 Camel-
on's mystery object. So there is no trouble finding gas. The para- lia Ave., North Hollywood, Calif. 91606.
dors were still being completed, but most
Remininscing . . . seemed to be open, as were the hotels at San OCTOBER 19 & 20, Long Beach Mineral &
Ignacio and Santa Inez. Gem Society's 30th Annual Show, "Carnival
I have been a subscriber to your magazine Mr. Smullen has a more optimistic view of of Gems." 2175 Cherry Ave., at Hill St.,
almost since its inception, many years ago, the dangers of the highway than we do. With Signal Hill, Calif. Admission free. Dealers,
and have always enjoyed reading its contents. NO shoulder, in fact usually a four-foot or exhibits. Chairman: Frank Teringer, 3935 W.
I was a TB patient in a Phoenix sanitarium, more drop-off, plus the hazard of foot-high 60th St., Los Angeles, Calif. 90043.
and resident in a cabin, in Hassayampa Coun- square-ended culvert tops, there is little lee-
try Club, Prescott,. during 1930-31, with full way and no escape in case the other fellow OCTOBER 19 & 20, Daly City Rockhounds
recovery, after returning back East, later. crowds you or blinds you, or an animal or a Inc., 10th Annual "Golden Gate Gem & Min-
During the time I was at Hassayampa, I car looms up ahead of you. It is also difficult eral Show." War Memorial Bldg., 6655 Mis-
had an old Essex touring car, and with my to get out of the way of others if you have me- sion St., Daly City, Calif. Dealer space avail-
camera, made many trips out into the desert chanical or tire trouble. able. Contact: Mary Louise Froese, P.O.Box
country, Grand Canyon, etc., taking pictures Senora Espinosa, a long-respected.gas sta- 596, Daly City, Calif. 94017.
of interesting subjects. I have some of the tion, store and restaurant owner of El Rosar-
1930 Prescott Rodeo, Smoki Snake Dance and io, advised us to never drive it at night and to NOVEMBER 2 & 3, "Galaxy of Gems" spon-
many others. I had the pleasure of meeting always use great care, especially on curvy sored by the Oxnard Gem and Mineral Soci-
Charlotte Hall, in her home, and I still re- parts of the road where curves are not ety, Esplanade Shopping Mall, Oxnard, Calif.
member the dress which she wore when she banked, making it impossible to see ahead. Exhibits, Dealers, demonstrations. Free
went to Washington as the State's first repre- She knows whereof she speaks! parking. Space provided for self-contained
sentative of Copper. I believe it is still in the BETTY MACKINTOSH, campers. Contact: Dan Lounsbury, 1024 Cor-
museum home which she left to Prescott. She Chula Vista, California. sicana Dr., Oxnard, Calif. 93030.
46
Desert/September 1974
JMMMvS
FOR
U WERS
BEACHES OF BAJA by Walt Wheelock. BAJA [California, Mexico] by Cliff Cross. Up- LOWER CALIFORNIA GUIDE BOOK by Ger-
Beaches on the Pacific side of Lower California dated to include the new transpeninsular high- hard and Gulick. Veteran travelers would not
are described by the veteran Baja explorer. Un- way, the author has outlined in detail all of the venture south of the border without this authori-
like California beaches, they are still relatively services, precautions, ojtstanding sights and tative volume. It combines the fascinating his-
free of crowds. Paperback, illustrated, 72 pages, things to do in Baja. Maps and photos galore, tory of every location, whether it be a town, mis-
$1.95. with large format. 170 pages, $3.95. sion or abandoned ranch, with detailed mileage
maps and locations of gasoline supplies, water
BAJA CALIFORNIA by Choral Pepper. Packed and other needed information on Baja. 243
JOURNEY OF THE FLAME by Walter Nord- in this comparatively small book is a world of pages with 3-color folded map, 16 detailed route
hoff. The most exciting tale of early Baja and facts about the land, the insects, vegetation, the maps, 4 city maps, 22 illustrations. Hardcover,
Alta California ever written. Recounts lost treas- seashore, the missionaries, vanished missions, $6.50.
ure legends and is accurate historical account lost treasures and strange stories, tall and true,
presented in fictional style. Hardcover, $4.95. of Baja California. Fascinating reading. Paper- THE BAJA BOOK, A Complete Map-Guide to
back, 126 pages, $1.95. Today's Baja California by Tom Miller and El-
mar Baxter. Waiting until the new transpenin-
CAMPING AND CLIMBING IN BAJA by John
BAJA CALIFORNIA OVERLAND by L. Burr sular highway opened, the authors have pooled
W . Robinson. Contains excellent maps and pho-
Belden. Practical guide to Lower California as their knowledge to give every minute detail on
tos. A guidebook to the Sierra San Pedro Martir
far as La Paz by auto with material gleaned from gas stations, campgrounds, beaches, trailer
and the Sierra Juarez of uoper Baja Calif. Much
extensive study trip sponsored by University of parks, road conditions, boating, surfing, flying,
of this land is unexplored and unmapped still.
California. Includes things to see and accommo- fishing, beachcombing, in addition to a Baja
Car routes to famous ranches and camping spots
dations. Paperback, $1.95. Roadlog which has been broken into convenient
in palm-studded canyons with trout streams
two-mile segments. A tremendous package for
tempt weekend tourists who aren't up to hiking.
PALM CANYONS OF BAJA CALIFORNIA by every kind of recreationist. Paperback, 178
Paperback, 96 pages, $2.95.
Randall Henderson. The beautiful palm canyons pages, illus., maps, $7.95.
and isolated areas of Baja California are describ-
BYROADS OF BAJA by Walt Wheelock. In ad- ed by the late Randall Henderson, founder of FLORA OF BAJA NORTE by Tina Kasbeer. The
dition to describing the many highways now DESERT Magazine. Although these are his per- author is a botanist who spends all her free time
being paved, this veteran Baja explorer also tells sonal adventures many years ago, little has in Baja and writes in detail of the endemic plants
of back country roads leading to Indian ruins, changed and his vivid writing is alive today as it of the country. Describes the use of certain
missions and abandoned mines. Paperback, il- was when he first saw the oases. Paperback, il- plants for medicinal purposes by the Indians and
lustrated, 72 pages, $1.95. lustrated, 72 pages, $1.95. residents. Paperback, illus. 36 pages, $1.00.
Order From
Please Add 25 Cents Per Order for Handling and & Postage
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