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Lonely Planet Publications

959
TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB

Directory
CONTENTS
Accommodations
Activities
Business Hours
Children
Climate Charts
Courses
Customs
Dangers & Annoyances
Discount Cards
Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
Food
Gay & Lesbian Travelers
Holidays
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
Maps
Money
Post
Shopping
Solo Travelers
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Travelers With Disabilities
Visas
Volunteering
Women Travelers
Work

ACCOMMODATIONS

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Accommodations in Mexico range from hammocks and huts to hotels of every imaginable
standard upwards to super-luxury resorts.
This book divides accommodations into
three price ranges: budget (where a typical
room for two people costs under M$400),
midrange (M$400 to M$1000) and top end
(above M$1000).
Budget accommodations include camping
grounds, hammocks, palm-thatched cabaas,
backpacker hostels, guesthouses and economical hotels. Recommended accommodations
in this range will be simple and without frills
but generally clean. Hotel rooms usually have

a private bathroom containing hot shower,


WC and washbasin. (In this book, rooms are
assumed to have private bathroom unless
otherwise stated.)
Midrange accommodations are chiefly hotels,
ranging in comfort and atmosphere according
to price, though in some areas of Mexico even
M$400 can get you a cozy, attractively decorated
room in a friendly small hotel. Some midrange
hotels have swimming pools, restaurants, inhouse travel agencies and other facilities. Many
of the countrys most appealing and memorable
lodgings are in this price bracket small or
medium-sized hotels, well-designed and cared
for, with a friendly atmosphere and personal
attention from staff. In some places youll also
find apartments, bungalows and more comfortable cabaas in this same price range.
Top-end hotels run from the classier hotels
in the cities to deluxe coastal resort hotels and
luxurious smaller establishments catering to
travelers with a taste for comfort and beautiful
design, and the funds to pay for it.
Room prices given in this book, except
where stated otherwise, are high-season
prices. The exact dates of the high season vary
from city to city, and sometimes between different hotels in the same city, but in most of
Mexico high season typically means Semana
Santa (the week before Easter and a couple of
days after it), most of July and August, and the
ChristmasNew Year holiday period of about
two weeks. Outside the high seasons, many
midrange and top-end establishments in tourist destinations cut their room prices by 10%
to 40%. Budget accommodations are more
likely to keep the same rates all year. Through
this book we note major deviations from the
normal seasonal pattern; in many places on
the Pacific coast, for example, high season
runs from December right through to Easter.
We also note special deals, low weekend rates
and other ways you can cut costs.
In this book we use single (abbreviated
to s) to mean a room for one person, and
double (d) to mean a room for two people.
Mexicans sometimes use the phrase cuarto
sencillo (literally, single room) to mean a room
with one bed, which may be a cama matrimonial (double bed); sometimes one person

DIRECTORY

960 D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n s

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE


For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
check out the online booking service at
lonelyplanet.com/hotels. Youll find the true,
insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
Reviews are thorough and independent.
Best of all, you can book online.

can occupy such a room for a lower price


than two people. A cuarto doble often means
a room with two beds, which may both be
camas matrimoniales.
In popular destinations at busy times, its
best to reserve a room in advance or go early
in the day to secure a room. Many places take
reservations through their websites or by
email. Otherwise try by telephone if the place
is not booked out, a simple phone call earlier
in the day, saying what time youll arrive, is
usually sufficient. A few places are reluctant
to take reservations, but dont worry, youll
always end up with a room somewhere.
Accommodation prices are subject to two
taxes: IVA (value-added tax; 15%) and ISH
(lodging tax; 2% or 3% depending on the
state). Many budget and some midrange establishments only charge these taxes if you
require a receipt, and they quote room rates
accordingly (ie not including taxes). Generally,
though, IVA and ISH are included in quoted
prices. In top-end hotels a price may often be
given as, say, M$1500 ms impuestos (M$1500
plus taxes), in which case you must add 17%
or 18% to the figure. When in doubt, you can
ask, estn incluidos los impuestos? (are taxes
included?). Prices given in this book are those
you are most likely to be charged at each place,
with or without the taxes, according to the
establishments policy.
In our accommodations listings the internet icon (i) means that the establishment
has internet-connected computers for guests
to use (this service may or may not be free
of charge). A growing number of accommodations also provide wi-fi access for those
traveling with their own machines.
The air-con icon (a) means that the establishment offers at least some rooms with
air-conditioning.
Similarly, the nonsmoking icon (n) indicates that some rooms, but not necessarily all,
are nonsmoking.

lonelyplanet.com

Apartments
In many resort areas you can find tourist apartments with fully equipped kitchens. Some are
very comfortable and attractive and they can
be good value for three or four people, especially if youre staying more than a few days.
The internet, local ads and tourist offices are
good sources of information on these.

B&Bs
Mexicos growing number of B&Bs, mostly
found in tourist destinations, are usually
small, comfortable, midrange or top-end
guesthouses, often beautifully designed and
offering friendly, personal attention from
the owners.

Bungalows, Cabaas & Villas


Cabaas are usually huts (of wood, brick,
adobe, stone or other materials) with a palmthatched roof. The most basic have dirt floors
and nothing inside but a bed, and you provide
the padlock for the door. At the other extreme,
some cabaas are positively deluxe, with electric light, mosquito nets, large comfy beds,
private bathroom, fans, dcor, hammockstrung deck and even air-con and kitchen
though theyll usually still have an agreeably rustic, close-to-nature ambience. Prices
for simple cabaas run from about M$100 to
M$200. The most expensive ones are on the
Caribbean, where some luxury cabaas cost
over M$1000.
A bungalow is usually similar to upperrange cabaas but more sturdily built and generally forming part of a midrange or top-end
hotel. Bungalows are typically free-standing
units set in gardens or grounds. Villas, in hotel
contexts, tend to be even more sturdy, comfortable and upmarket.

Camping & Trailer Parks


Most organized campgrounds are actually
trailer parks set up for RVs (recreational vehicles, camper vans) and trailers (caravans),
but are open to tent campers at lower rates.
Theyre most common along the coasts. Some
are very basic, others quite luxurious. Expect
to pay between M$100 and M$200 to pitch
a tent for two, and M$250 to M$300 for two
people with a vehicle, using full facilities.
Quite a lot of restaurants and guesthouses
in beach spots or country areas will let you
pitch a tent on their patch for around M$25
to M$40 per person.

lonelyplanet.com

D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n s 961

Hotels

You will find hammock space and often


hammocks too available in many of the
more low-key beach spots in the southern
half of the country. A hammock can be a very
comfortable, not to mention cheap, place to
sleep in hot, southern areas (keep mosquito
repellent handy). You can rent one and a
place to hang it, usually under a palm roof
outside a small posada or beach restaurant,
for M$30 or M$40 in some places, though
it can reach M$100 on the more expensive
Caribbean coast. With your own hammock,
the cost comes down a bit. Its easy enough
to buy hammocks in Mexico, especially in
the states of Oaxaca and Chiapas and on the
Yucatn Peninsula.

Mexico specializes in good midrange hotels, where two people can get a comfortable
room with private bathroom, and usually
air-con, for about M$400 to M$1000. The
more you pay within that price range, the
more facilities, comfort, style and design
the place is likely to have. Many Mexican
hotels have modernized and upgraded their
facilities in recent years, adding aesthetics
and additional comforts to their priorities,
often in pleasing combinations of contemporary and traditional, Mexican and internationally influenced taste. Many midrange
hotels have a restaurant, bar and internet
facilities (often including wi-fi). Quite a
lot have swimming pools. Among the most
charming lodgings, in both the midrange
and the top-end brackets, are the many old
mansions, inns, and even monasteries and
convents, turned into hotels. These can be
wonderfully atmospheric, with fountains
gurgling in flower-decked, stone-pillared
courtyards or verdant gardens. These are
probably the lodgings you will remember
most fondly after your trip. Modern hotels
are often designed around traditional patiobased plans too.
Every Mexican town also has its cheap hotels. There are clean, friendly, secure ones,
and there are dark, dirty, smelly ones where
you may not feel your belongings are safe.
Adequate rooms with a private hot shower
are available for under M$300 per double in
most of the country.
Mexico has plenty of top-end hotels too,
particularly in the coastal resort towns and
largest cities. They offer the expected levels
of luxury with pools, gyms, bars, restaurants and so on at prices that are sometimes
agreeably modest (and sometimes not!). They
range in style from converted haciendas or
small, chic boutique hotels to expansive
modern resorts, but more often than not the
architecture is eye-catching and the facilities
and service excellent. Prices at many such
establishments are highly flexible, and if you
like to stay in luxury but also enjoy saving
some money, look for deals on hotel websites
or phone them up and ask how to obtain the
best price.
Fortunately for families and small groups of
travelers, many hotels in all price ranges have
rooms for three, four or five people that cost
not much more than a double.

Hostels
There are now hostels suitable for budget
travelers in most towns and cities where
this kind of traveler congregates. If you follow reasonably well-trodden trails, its quite
easy to stay in nothing but hostels throughout your entire Mexico trip. Hostels provide
dormitory accommodation for typically between M$70 and M$150 per person, plus
communal kitchens, bathrooms, living space
and, in many cases, some economical private rooms as well. Some of the best places
offer extra enticements such as pools, bars,
gardens, sundecks, internet access and even
design and charm. Standards of cleanliness
and security do vary, but popular hostels
are great places for meeting fellow travelers,
and word of mouth will often let you know
which is the best one in town to head for
if you want a party scene/decent sunbathing area/good nights sleep. Hostelworld (www
.hostelworld.com) and HostelBookers (www.hostelbook
ers.com) provide plentiful listings and offer
online reservations.
Fourteen hostels are members of Mexicos
HI affiliate, Hostelling International Mexico (www
.hostellingmexico.com, www.hihostels.com), whose flagship is Hostel Mundo Joven Catedral (p166)
in Mexico City. There are small discounts
for HI members at these places. Ciaro Hostels
(www.ciarogroup.com) is a small, independent
group with half a dozen hostels in Mexico
City and the southeast.
Note that the Spanish word hostal actually means small hotel rather than hostel,
but is now increasingly used for both types
of place.

DIRECTORY

Hammocks

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962 D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s

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PRACTICALITIES
Mexicans use the metric system for weights and measures.
Most prerecorded videotapes and DVDs on sale in Mexico (like the rest of the Americas and

Japan) use the NTSC image registration system, incompatible with the PAL system common to
most of Western Europe and Australia and the Secam system used in France.
If buying DVDs, look for the numbered globe motif indicating which regions of the world

it can be played in. Region 1 is the US and Canada; Europe and Japan are in region 2; and
Australia and New Zealand join Mexico in Region 4.
Electrical current is 110V, 60Hz, and most plugs have two flat prongs, as in the US and Canada.
Mexicos only English-language daily newspaper is The News (www.thenews.com.mx). Distribu-

tion is very patchy outside Mexico City. The best and most independent-minded Spanish-language national newspapers include Reforma and the left-wing La Jornada.

Posadas & Casas de Huspedes

Climbing

Posadas are inns, meaning anything from


basic budget hotels to tastefully designed,
small, midrange places. A casa de huspedes
is a guesthouse, a home converted into simple
guest lodgings, usually family-run and often
with a relaxed, friendly atmosphere.

The Monterrey area is Mexicos mecca for


technical climbers, especially the limestone
of Potrero Chico (p411), with 600 routes
developed. Peaks in Mexicos central volcanic belt, including Pico de Orizaba (p699),
Mexicos highest, and Iztacchuatl (p231),
present fine challenges. A number of good
climbing spots, some appropriate for beginners, have been opened up near Oaxaca
(p723). You can also climb in the Barranca
del Cobre (Copper Canyon) area (p341) and
Baja Californias Parque Nacional Sierra San
Pedro Mrtir (p288). Guides are available
for all these places. A good book is Mexicos
Volcanoes: A Climbing Guide by RJ Secor.
Conditions at high altitude are best from
October to February.

ACTIVITIES
You can hike, bike, climb, canoe, kayak, raft,
ride horses and watch wildlife in some of
Mexicos most spectacular areas, and have
fun enjoying most imaginable aquatic activities along Mexicos coasts. Active tourism is
a fast-growing field in Mexico. The following is a brief introduction to what you can
do and where you can do it; for more detail, see the destination sections of this book.
Good sources on active tourism in Mexico
include Amtave (Mexican Association of Adventure Travel &
Ecotourism; x55-5688-3883, 800-654-44-52; www.amtave
.com), based in Mexico City with 60 member

organizations and companies around the


country, and the websites www.planeta.com,
www.gorp.com and www.mexonline.com.

Canyoneering, Rappelling & Zip-lining


Matacanes (boxed text, p411) is heaven for
canyoneers, with its 27 cliff jumps. Other good
bases for this adrenaline-charging activity are
Creel (see p349) and Durango (p380). Theres
exciting rappelling in places like the Sima de
las Cotorras (p810) and Coscomatepec (p697),
and fun zip-lining at places around Monterrey
such as the Can de la Huasteca (p410) and
Cascada Cola de Caballo (p410), or at Cascada
de Tzarracua (p580), near Uruapan, and Las
Nubes (p848) in Chiapas.

Hiking
Trails in the Barranca del Cobre (Copper
Canyon; p341) and Oaxacas Pueblos
Mancomunados (p747) are among the
most spectacular, popular and developed.
Mountains you can summit without technical
climbing include Nevado de Toluca (p269),
Volcn Paricutn (p581), Volcn Nevado de
Colima (p555), La Malinche (p237), Volcn
San Martn (p704) and Volcn Tacan (p860).
Theres also good hiking on the lower slopes
of Iztacchuatl (p231). Other fine hiking areas
are the forests of the Reserva de la Biosfera
El Cielo (p423), Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra
Gorda (boxed text, p651) and Reserva de la
Biosfera Calakmul (p955), and the deserts of
the Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra de la Laguna
(p308). A guide is a very good idea for many
routes, as trail marking is generally incipient

lonelyplanet.com

Horseback Riding
Ever more popular among visitors, excellent
riding is available at many places, including
the Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon;
p341), Sinaloas Tufted Jay Preserve (boxed
text, p441), Puerto Vallarta (p456), Real de
Catorce (p610) and Teotitln del Valle (p741).
And you can canter along the beaches at
Mazatln (p433), Sayulita (p451), Barra de
Potos (p498), Zihuatanejo (p491), Pie de la
Cuesta (p499), Puerto Escondido (p756) and
many other Pacific resorts.

Mountain Biking
Countless tracks and trails through magnificent country await pedalers. Youll find
mountain bikes available for rent or for
guided trips of up to several days in places as
diverse as Loreto (p300) in Baja California,
the mountains around Monterrey (p409), the
Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon; p341),
Coscomatepec (p697), Oaxaca (p723), Puerto
Vallarta (p457), around San Cristbal de Las
Casas (p824), and many places on the flat
Yucatn Peninsula. See p990 for some tips
on cycling in Mexico.

Water Sports
Most coastal resorts rent snorkel gear and can
arrange boat and fishing trips. Theres great
diving along the Caribbean coast, but also
some fine spots on the Pacific. Waterskiing,
parasailing, jet skiing and banana riding are
widespread resort activities. Always cast an
eye over the equipment before taking off.

licenses (costing around M$130/250 per day/


week) are required for fishing from boats in
estuaries and on the ocean; charters usually
include them, but youll need your own if you
hire a local fisher to take you out. Most towns
have an oficina de pesca (fisheries office) that
issues licenses.
Elsewhere, theres lake and reservoir fishing inland, and some very good lagoon, river
and sea fishing along the Gulf and Caribbean
coasts. Fans flock to La Pesca (p420) in the
northeast, and Punta Allen (p904) and Xcalak
(p907) in the southeast.
KAYAKING, CANOEING & RAFTING

Mexicos many coastal lagoons and sheltered


bays make magnificent waters for kayaks and
canoes, and theres often interesting wildlife
to be seen in the places youll reach. Rent
equipment or take guided trips at prime sites
such as Muleg (p297), La Paz (p303) and
Loreto (p300) in Baja California; Mazatln
(p433), Barra de Potos (p498) and Laguna
Manialtepec (p762) on the Pacific coast;
Campeche (p950) on the Gulf coast; and
on the Caribbean coast at Bahas de Punta
Solimn (p895), or Xcalak (p907).
Veracruz state, where rivers fall dramatically from the Sierra Madre Oriental to the
coastal plain, is the place for white-water rafting, called descenso de ros in Mexico. The
two main centers are Tlapacoyan (p675) and
Jalcomulco (p684). You can also raft on some
rivers in the Lacandn Jungle in Chiapas (see
p817). Always use a reliable company with
good equipment and experienced guides.
A Gringos Guide to Mexican Whitewater
by Tom Robey details 56 kayak, canoe and
raft runs on 37 different rivers.
SNORKELING & DIVING

FISHING

Mexico is justly famous for its sportfishing


for marlin, swordfish, sailfish and tuna along
the Pacific coast and Sea of Cortez. Deep-sea
charters are available in all of the major Pacific
resorts, many of them now practicing catchand-release for billfish. The prime locations
include Ensenada (p286), San Carlos (p332),
Mazatln (p433), Puerto Vallarta (p456),
Barra de Navidad (p472), Manzanillo (p476),
Zihuatanejo (p493), Acapulco (p509), Puerto
Escondido (p756) and Puerto ngel (p766). In
general the biggest catches occur from April to
July and from October to December. Fishing

The Caribbean is world famous for its wonderful coral reefs and translucent waters full
of tropical fish. Great diving locations include Cozumel (p887), Isla Mujeres (p876),
Playa del Carmen (p883) and the Banco
Chinchorro coral atoll (p906). Most of these
are good for snorkeling too. Inland, you can
dive some of the Yucatns famed cenotes
(limestone sinkholes) near Akumal (p894)
and Tulum (p898) and at Gran Cenote
(p901), and there are few more extraordinary
experiences than snorkeling amid Mexicos
northern deserts in the pellucid pools of
Cuatro Cinegas (p389).

DIRECTORY

and walking alone across remote territory can


be risky. The best seasons for hiking vary from
place to place, but conditions at high altitude
are usually best from October to February.

D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s 963

DIRECTORY

964 D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s

lonelyplanet.com

SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR DIVING


Before embarking on a scuba-diving, skin-diving or snorkeling trip, carefully consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience:
Possess a current diving-certification card from a recognized scuba-diving instruction agency

(if scuba diving).


Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable diving.
If you dont have your own equipment, ask to see the dive shops before you commit. And

make sure you feel comfortable with your dive master: after all, its your life.
Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions at the dive site from a

reputable local dive operation, and ask how local trained divers deal with these considerations.
Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about marine life and the environment.
Dive only at sites within your level of experience; if available, engage the services of a compe-

tent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master.


Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region (or even site) to

another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site or dive conditions. These differences
influence the way divers dress for a dive and what diving techniques they use.
Know the locations of the nearest decompression chambers and the emergency telephone

numbers.
Avoid diving less than 18 hours before a high-altitude flight.

On the Pacific coast, strap on your tanks


at San Blas (p445), Puerto Vallarta (p456),
Manzanillo (p475), Zihuatanejo (p491), Puerto
Escondido (p756) or Bahas de Huatulco
(p779). Theres top snorkeling at most of these
places too, and elsewhere.
Baja Californias top diving and/or snorkeling bases are Muleg (p297), Loreto (p300),
La Paz (p303), La Ventana (p307), Cabo
Pulmo (p307) and Cabo San Lucas (p312).
When renting diving equipment, try to
make sure that its up to standard. And beware of dive shops that promise certification
after just a few hours tuition. Make sure the
dive shop is certified by PADI (www.padi.com),
NAUI (www.naui.com) or the internationally recognized Mexican diving organization FMAS
(www.fmas.org.mx), and that its accreditation is
up to date.
Coral reefs and other marine ecosystems
are particularly fragile environments. For
tips on responsible diving, see the boxed text
on p889.
SURFING, WINDSURFING & KITEBOARDING

The Pacific coast has awesome surf. Among


the very best are the summer breaks at
Costa Azul (Zippers) in Baja California (see
p311); the worlds longest wave on Baha
de Matanchn (p444), near San Blas; and

the barreling Mexican Pipeline at Puerto


Escondido (p753). Other fine spots include
Ensenada (p284), Todos Santos (p315),
Mazatln (p432), Sayulita (p451), Manzanillo
(p475), Boca de Pascuales (p480), Barra de
Nexpa (p482), Troncones (p485), Acapulcos
Playa Revolcadero (p508) and Barra de la Cruz
(p783)for starters. Most beach breaks receive some sort of surf all year, but wave season
is really May to October or November, with
June, July and August the biggest months. You
can rent surfboards and take classes in many
spots. If youre planning to fly to Mexico with
your own board, check with the airline first:
most of them charge US$50 or more (each
way) to carry surfboards, and some wont carry
them at all to some destinations or at some
times of year.
Los Barriles (p307) is Baja Californias
windsurfing capital (September to March) and
the same winds blow at La Ventana (p307),
which is also good for kiteboarding. Further
south, Puerto Vallarta (p456) and Manzanillo
(p475) can be good too.

Wildlife- & Bird-Watching


Observing Mexicos varied and exotic fauna is
an increasingly popular and practicable pastime see p114 for an introduction to what
you can see and where.

lonelyplanet.com

Stores are typically open from 9am to 8pm,


Monday to Saturday. In the south of the
country and in small towns, some stores
close for a siesta between 2pm and 4pm,
then stay open till 9pm. Some dont open on
Saturday afternoon.
Offices have similar Monday to Friday
hours to stores, with a greater likelihood of
the 2pm to 4pm lunch break. Offices with
tourist-related business, including airline and
car-rental offices, usually open on Saturday
too, from at least 9am to 1pm.
Typical restaurant hours are 7am (9am in
central Mexico) to midnight. If a restaurant
has a closing day, its usually Sunday, Monday
or Tuesday. Cafs typically open from 8am
to 10pm daily.
Banks are normally open 9am to 5pm
Monday to Friday, and 9am to 1am Saturday.
In smaller towns they may close earlier or not
open on Saturday. Casas de cambio (moneyexchange offices) are usually open from 9am
to 7pm daily, often with even longer hours in
coastal resorts.
Post offices typically open from 8am
to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 9am to
1pm Saturday.
In this book we spell out opening hours
where they differ from those above.
Its worth remembering that supermarkets
and department stores usually open from 9am
or 10am to 10pm every day, and stores in
malls and coastal resort towns often open on
Sunday too.

CHILDREN
Mexicans love children, and will affectionately call any child whose hair is less than
jet black gero (blondie). With a tiny handful of exceptions, children are welcome at all
kinds of hotels and in virtually every caf and
restaurant. In this book youll find especially
child-friendly attractions and places to stay
and eat identified with the cicon.
The sights, sounds and colors of Mexico
excite and stimulate most children, but few
kids like traveling all the time; theyre happier
if they can settle into a place for a while and
make friends. Try to give them time to get
on with some of what they like doing back
home. Children are also more easily affected
than adults by heat, disrupted sleeping patterns and strange food. They need time to
acclimatize and you should take extra care to

avoid sunburn. Ensure you replace fluids if a


child gets diarrhea (see p1004).
Lonely Planets Travel with Children has
lots of practical advice on the subject, drawn
from firsthand experience.

Documents for Under-18 Travelers


To conform with regulations aimed at preventing international child abduction, minors (people under 18) traveling to Mexico
without one or both of their parents may
need to carry a notarized consent form
signed by the absent parent or parents,
giving permission for the young traveler
to make the international journey. Airlines
flying to Mexico may refuse to board passengers without it. In the case of divorced parents, a custody document may be required. If
one or both parents are dead, or the traveler
has only one legal parent, a death certificate
or notarized statement of the situation may
be required.
Contact a Mexican consulate to find out
what you need to do. Required forms for
these purposes are usually available from
these authorities.

Practicalities
Cots for hotel rooms and high chairs for restaurants are available mainly in midrange
and top-end establishments. If you want a
rental car with a child safety seat, the major
international rental firms are the most reliable
providers. You will probably have to pay a few
pesos extra per day.
Its usually not hard to find a babysitter if
parents want to go out on their own ask at
your hotel. Diapers (nappies) are widely available, but if you depend on some particular
cream, lotion, baby food or medicine, bring
it with you.
The most family-oriented hotels, with expansive grounds and facilities like pools and
playgrounds, tend to be found on the coasts.
A few hotels (mostly top-end or upper midrange) offer free accommodation for one or
two kids under about 12 if they share a room
with their parents. On flights to and within
Mexico, children under two generally travel
for 10% of the adult fare, as long as they do
not occupy a seat, and those aged two to 11
normally pay 67%. Children under 13 pay half
price on many Mexican long-distance buses,
and if theyre small enough to sit on your lap,
they will usually go for free.

DIRECTORY

BUSINESS HOURS

D I R E C T O R Y B u s i n e s s H o u r s 965

DIRECTORY

966 D I R E C T O R Y C l i m a t e C h a r t s

Sights & Activities


In some places, apart from the obvious beaches
and swimming pools, youll find special kids
attractions such as amusement parks, water
parks, zoos, aquariums, safari parks and adventure parks with zip-lines, abseiling and
other fun activities. These attractions tend to
cluster in and around the cities such as in
Mexico City (p164), Monterrey (boxed text,
p403) and Villahermosa (see Parque-Museo
La Veta, p792, and Yumk, p797) and
in coastal resorts such as Cancn (p867),
Mazatln (p433) and Acapulco (p509).
Outdoor activity opportunities are growing fast all over Mexico (see p962), and kids
dont have to be very old to enjoy snorkeling,
watching wildlife, kayaking or riding bicycles
or horses. Kids will enjoy some archaeological sites if theyre into climbing pyramids
and exploring tunnels (few arent). On the
Yucatn Peninsula, away from the beaches
and snorkeling, some of the cenotes and
caves, such as Boca del Puma (p881), Siete
Bocas (p881), Loltn Caverns (p931) and the
Grutas de Xtacumbilxunaan (p955), provide
a touch of adventure.

CLIMATE CHARTS
June to October are the hottest and wettest
months across most of Mexico. For tips on
the best seasons to travel, see p31.

COURSES
Taking classes in Mexico is a great way to meet
people and get an inside angle on local life as
well as study the language, culture or cuisine.
The country specializes in short courses in
the Spanish language, and as the flavors of
Mexican food gain a growing army of fans
outside Mexico, cooking classes are becoming
ever more popular.
In addition, Mexican universities and colleges often offer tuition to complement college courses you may be taking back home.
For long-term study in Mexico youll need
a student visa; contact a Mexican consulate
about these.
Youll find helpful links on study possibilities in Mexico on the Lonely Planet website (www
.lonelyplanet.com).

Cooking
Oaxaca is Mexicos cooking-school capital (see boxed text, p726). Fans of Mexican
food can also learn from experts how to

lonelyplanet.com

prepare delicious dishes at excellent cooking schools in Monterrey (p404), Puebla


(see Restaurant Sacrista, p224), Tlaxcala
(p234), Puerto Vallarta (p457) and even little
Yambigapan (p704).

Language
Many of Mexicos most attractive and exciting
cities are home to Spanish language schools,
among them Cuernavaca, Guadalajara,
Guanajuato, La Paz, Mrida, Morelia, Oaxaca,
Mexico City, Monterrey, Ptzcuaro, Playa del
Carmen, Puerto Escondido, Puerto Vallarta,
Quertaro, San Cristbal de Las Casas, San
Miguel de Allende, Taxco, Veracruz and
Xalapa (see city sections for more details).
Many schools are private; some are affiliated
to universities.
Depending on the school, you can study
for any period from a few hours to a year. In
many places you can enroll on the spot and
may be able to start the same day. You may be
offered accommodations with a local family
as part of the deal, which can help your language skills as much as the formal tuition. In
a growing number of schools, extra or alternative courses in art, crafts, dance, indigenous
languages and in-depth studies of Mexico are
also available.
Costs per week, with accommodations
and meals included, can range from around
M$2000 to over M$5000 depending on the
city or town, the school and how intensive
the study is.
Useful information is available from the
National Registration Center for Study Abroad (www
.nrcsa.com), AmeriSpan (www.amerispan.com) and
the Council on International Educational Exchange
(www.ciee.org).

CUSTOMS
Things that visitors are allowed to bring into
Mexico duty-free include items for personal
use such as: clothing; two cameras; two mobile
phones; a portable computer; a portable radio/
CD or DVD player or digital music player;
three surfboards or windsurfing boards; one
musical instrument; one tent; four fishing
rods; medicine for personal use, with prescription in the case of psychotropic drugs;
3L of wine and 3L of other alcoholic drinks
(adults only); and 400 cigarettes (adults).
The normal routine when you enter
Mexico is to complete a customs declaration
form (which lists duty-free allowances), and

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D I R E C T O R Y C l i m a t e C h a r t s 967

Temp

Rainfall

Temp

Rainfall

in

40

104

16

400

300

30

86

12

300

200

20

68

200

100

10

50

100

32

16

400

86

12

20

68

10

50

32

in

40

104

30

J F MAM J J A S O N D

J F MAM J J A S O N D

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

CHIHUAHUA 1330m (4364ft)


Temp

Average
Max/Min

MONTERREY 512m (1679ft)

mm

Rainfall

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

OAXACA 1550m (5085ft)


Temp

mm

Rainfall

in

mm

in

40

104

16

400

40

104

16

400

30

86

12

300

30

86

12

300

200

100

20

68

200

20

68

10

50

100

10

50

32

32

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Temp

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

GUADALAJARA 1540m (5051ft)


C

J F MAM J J A S O N D

in

40

104

30

20

Rainfall

16

400

86

12

68

10

40

104

16

400

300

30

86

12

300

200

20

68

200

50

100

10

50

100

32

32

J F MAM J J A S O N D

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

Rainfall

40

104

16

400

300

30

86

12

300

200

20

68

200

100

10

50

100

32

16

400

86

12

68

10

50

32

104

30

20

J F MAM J J A S O N D

J F MAM J J A S O N D

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

MEXICO CITY 2234m (7329ft)


F

in

40

104

30

Rainfall

16

400

86

12

300

20

68

10

50

32

Average
Max/Min

Rainfall

in

40

104

16

400

30

86

12

300

200

20

68

200

100

10

50

100

32

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Temp

mm

J F MAM J J A S O N D

SAN JOS DEL CABO 7m (23ft)

mm

J F MAM J J A S O N D

Average
Max/Min

Rainfall

in

40

in

Temp

Temp

mm

J F MAM J J A S O N D

SAN CRISTBAL DE LAS CASAS 2276m (7467ft)

mm

Average
Max/Min

Rainfall

in

MRIDA 22m (75ft)


Temp

Temp

J F MAM J J A S O N D

J F MAM J J A S O N D

PUERTO VALLARTA 6m (20ft)

mm

mm

J F MAM J J A S O N D

mm

J F MAM J J A S O N D

DIRECTORY

Average
Max/Min

CANCN 1m (3ft)

DIRECTORY

968 D I R E C T O R Y D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s

then place it in a machine. If the machine


shows a green light, you pass without inspection. If a red light shows, your baggage will
be searched.

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES


Despite often alarming media reports and
official warnings, Mexico is generally a
safe place to travel, and with just a few
precautions you can minimize the risk of
encountering problems.
Some cities, such as Mexico City, Acapulco,
Monterrey and several places along the US
border (such as Nuevo Laredo, Tijuana
and Ciudad Jurez), have a crime problem,
but tourists are rarely involved in the drug
traderelated violence that brings such a lot
of bad publicity.
Enjoy yourself along the coasts, but beware
of undertows and riptides on any ocean beach,
and dont leave your belongings unattended
on the beach while you swim. Run-and-grab
thefts happen.
And everyone should be extremely careful
with taxis in Mexico City.
Official information can make Mexico
sound more alarming than it really is, and is
not always up to date, but for a variety of useful information on travel to Mexico consult
your countrys foreign affairs department:
Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
Canada (www.voyage.gc.ca)
UK (www.fco.gov.uk)
USA (travel.state.gov)
If youre already in Mexico, you can contact
your embassy (opposite). Keep an ear to the
ground as you travel. If you do become a
crime victim, report the incident to the police
and to your countrys nearest consulate, which
should be able to offer useful advice.

Theft & Robbery


As a rule, Mexicans are very honest and unlikely to steal anything from you. But thieves
exist everywhere and tourists are vulnerable
because they are generally wealthy by Mexican
standards and are considered likely to be carrying valuables. Pocket-picking and purse- or
bag-snatching are risks on crowded buses
and subway trains, at bus stops, bus stations,
airports, markets, packed streets and plazas,
and anywhere frequented by large numbers
of tourists especially in Mexico City and
other large cities.

lonelyplanet.com

Pickpockets often work in teams, crowding


their victims in already crowded places like
markets or city buses: one or two of them may
grab your bag or camera (or your arm or leg),
and while youre trying to get free another will
pick your pocket. Or one may drop something as a crowd jostles onto a bus and in the
crush a pocket will be picked or a bag slashed.
The objective is to distract you. If your valuables are underneath your clothing, the chances
of losing them are greatly reduced.
Mugging is less common than pocketpicking and purse-snatching, but more alarming and more serious: resistance may be met
with violence (do not resist). These robbers
may force you to remove your money belt,
watch, rings etc. They may be armed. Usually
they will not harm you, they just want your
money, fast. But there have been cases of robbers beating victims, or forcing them to drink
large amounts of alcohol to extract credit-card
security numbers.
To avoid being robbed in cities and even
tourist resorts, do not go where there are few
other people. This includes empty streets and
empty metro cars at night, and little-used pedestrian underpasses and similar places. Use
taxis instead of walking in potentially dodgy
areas. And, in Mexico City, make sure you
take the right kind of cab (see p141).
Isolated stretches of beach can also be risky.
Never camp in any lonely spot unless you are
absolutely sure its safe.
As you travel, you will develop a sense
of which situations and places are more
threatening than others. To reduce your
chances of becoming a victim, stick to the
following rules:
Walk with purpose and be alert to people
around you.
Leave most of your money, credit cards,
passport, jewelry and air tickets in a
sealed envelope in your hotels safe, unless you have immediate need of these
items. Virtually all hotels provide safekeeping for guests valuables. Failing
that, leave your valuables in a locked bag
in your room, or in a hostel locker. If
you have to leave money or cards in your
room, divide them into several stashes
and hide them in different places.
Carry a small amount of ready money
just enough for your outing in a pocket.
If you have to carry valuables, avoid making your pockets bulge with them, and

lonelyplanet.com

HIGHWAY ROBBERY

Bandits occasionally hold up buses, cars and


other vehicles on intercity routes, especially at
night, taking luggage or valuables. Sometimes
buses are robbed by people who board as passengers. The best ways to avoid highway robbery are to travel by day and to travel on toll
highways as much as possible. Deluxe and
1st-class buses use toll highways, where they
exist; 2nd-class buses do not. Hwy 200, along
the Pacific coast through Michoacn and
Guerrero states and as far south as Huatulco
in Oaxaca, Hwy 199 between Palenque and
Ocosingo in Chiapas, and Hwy 175 between
Oaxaca city and Pochutla, have all been the
scene of highway robberies over the years.

DISCOUNT CARDS
The ISIC student card, the IYTC card for travelers under 26, and the ITIC card for teachers
can help you obtain reduced-price air tickets to
or from Mexico at student- and youth-oriented
travel agencies. Reduced prices on Mexican

buses and at museums and archaeological sites


are usually only for those with Mexican education credentials, but the ISIC, IYTC and ITIC
will sometimes get you a reduction. The ISIC
card is the most widely recognized. It may also
get you discounts in a few hostels.
A Hostelling International card will save
you M$10 or so in some hostels in Mexico.

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES


If youre having trouble locating your nearest Mexican embassy or consulate, look at
the website of Mexicos foreign ministry, the
Secretara de Relaciones Exteriores (www.sre.gob.mx),
which lists all Mexican diplomatic missions
including the more than 30 consulates in US
cities. Some Mexican embassy and consulate
websites have useful information on visas and
similar matters.

Embassies & Consulates in Mexico


Mexico City entries in this list are for embassies or their consular sections; other entries
are consulates. Embassy websites are often
useful sources of information about Mexico.
Australia Mexico City (Map pp136-7; x55-1101-2200;
www.mexico.embassy.gov.au; Rubn Daro 55, Polanco;
mPolanco)
Belize Chetumal (x983-832-19-34; Av San Salvador
566, Fraccionamiento Flamboyanes); Mexico City (Map
pp136-7; x55-5520-1274; www.mfa.gov.bz; Bernardo
de Glvez 215, Lomas de Chapultepec; mAuditorio)
Canada Acapulco (x744-484-13-05; Local 23, Centro
Comercial Marbella); Cancn (x998-883-33-60; Local 330,
3er Piso, Plaza Caracol II, Blvd Kukulcn Km 8.5, Zona Hotelera); Guadalajara (x33-3671-4740; World Trade Center,
Piso 8, Torre Pacfico, Av Otero 1249, Colonia Rinconada
del Bosque); Mazatln (x669-913-73-20; Hotel Playa Mazatln, Av Las Gaviotas 202, Zona Dorada); Mexico City (Map
pp136-7; x55-5724-7900; www.canada.gc.ca; Schiller
529, Polanco; mAuditorio); Monterrey (x81-8344-3200;
Local 108A, C1 Piso, Edificio Kalos, Zaragoza 1300 Sur);
Oaxaca (x951-513-37-77; Local 11B, Pino Surez 700);
Puerto Vallarta (x322-293-00-98; Edificio Obelisco Local
108, Av Francisco Medina Ascencio 1951, Zona Hotelera
Las Glorias); San Jos del Cabo (x624-142-43-33; Local 9,
Plaza Jos Green, Blvd Mijares); Tijuana (x664-684-04-61;
Condominio del Parque, Gedovius 10411-101, Zona Ro)
Cuba Cancn (x998-884-34-23; Pecari 17, SM 20);
Mrida (x999-944-42-15; Calle 1-D No 320, Colonia
Campestre); Mexico City (Map pp136-7; x55-5280-8039;
www.embacuba.com.mx; Av Presidente Masaryk 554,
Polanco; mPolanco)
France Acapulco (x744-484-45-80; Despacho 205,
Condominio NIKKO, La Costera 91, Fraccionamiento

DIRECTORY

preferably keep them in a money belt,


shoulder wallet or pouch underneath
your clothing.
Dont keep cash, credit cards, purses,
bags or cameras in open view any longer
than you have to. At ticket counters in
bus stations and airports, keep your bag
between your feet.
Do not leave anything valuable-looking
visible in a parked vehicle.
Dont accept lifts from strangers.
Be careful about accepting food or
drinks from strangers, especially in resort cities and on buses; there have been
cases of drugging followed by robbery
and assault, including sexual assault.
Go easy on alcohol drunkenness makes
you an easier victim.
Use ATMs only in secure indoor locations, not those open to the street, and
try to use them during daylight. Using
stand-alone ATMs or booths on the street
makes you more vulnerable to theft, and
also to card cloning (see p974).
Cocaine and marijuana are prevalent in
Mexico. They are both illegal. The easiest
way to avoid problems connected with
these drugs is by having nothing to do
with them. If you get busted using or
transporting illegal drugs, your consulate
will not be able to get you out of trouble.

D I R E C T O R Y D i s c o u n t C a r d s 969

DIRECTORY

970 D I R E C T O R Y Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s

Club Deportiva); Cancn (x998-883-98-16; Colegio


Britnico, Pargo 24, SM 3); Mazatln (x669-985-12-28;
Belisario Domnguez 1008 Sur, Colonia Centro); Mrida
(x999-925-28-86; Calle 33B No 528); Mexico City (Map
pp136-7; x55-9171-9700; www.francia.org.mx; Campos
Elseos 339, Polanco; mAuditorio); consulate in Mexico
City (x55-9171-9840; Lafontaine 32, Polanco); Oaxaca
(x951-515-21-84; Planta Baja, 3a Privada de J Lpez
Alavez 5, San Felipe del Agua)
Germany Acapulco (x744-484-18-60; Alaminos 26,
Casa Tres Fuentes, Colonia Costa Azul); Cancn (x998884-18-98; Punta Conoco 36, SM24); Guadalajara
(x33-3810-2146; Calle 7 No 319, Colonia Ferrocarril);
Mazatln (x669-914-93-10; Av Playa Gaviotas 212,
Zona Dorada); Mexico City (Map pp136-7; x55-52832200; www.mexiko.diplo.de; Horacio 1506, Los Morales;
mPolanco)
Guatemala Ciudad Hidalgo (x962-698-01-84; 9a Calle
Ote 11, Colonia San Jos); Comitn (x963-632-26-69; 1a
Calle Sur Pte 35); Mexico City (Map pp136-7; x55-55407520; [email protected]; Av Explanada 1025,
Lomas de Chapultepec; mAuditorio); Tapachula (x962626-12-52; 5A Nte 5)
Ireland (Map pp136-7; x55-5520-5803; embajada@
irlanda.org.mx; Piso 3, Cerrada Blvd vila Camacho 76,
Lomas de Chapultepec; mAuditorio) In Mexico City.
Italy Cancn (x998-884-12-61; Alcatraces 39, SM22);
Guadalajara (x33-3616-1700; 1er Piso, Av Lpez Mateos
Nte 790, Fraccionamiento Ladrn de Guevara); Mexico City
(Map pp126-7; x55-5596-3655; www.ambcittadelmessic
.esteri.it; Paseo de las Palmas 1994, Lomas de Chapultepec)
Japan (Map pp132-3; x55-5211-0028; www.mx.emb
-japan.go.jp; Paseo de la Reforma 395; mSevilla) In
Mexico City.
Netherlands Cancn (x998-886-00-70; Martinair,
Planta Alta, Terminal 2, Aeropuerto Cancn); Guadalajara
(x33-3673-2211; 2 Piso, Av Vallarta 5500, Colonia
Lomas Universidad, Zapopan); Mexico City (x55-52589921; www.paisesbajos.com.mx; 7th fl, Edificio Calakmul,
Av Vasco de Quiroga 3000, Santa Fe)
New Zealand (Map pp136-7; x55-5283-9460;
[email protected]; Level 4, Jaime Balmes 8, Los
Morales; mPolanco) In Mexico City.
Spain Acapulco (x744-484-88-15; La Costera 75); Cancn (x998-848-99-18; Edificio Osis, cnr Blvd Kukulcn &
Cenzontle, Zona Hotelera); Guadalajara (x33-3630-0450;
Mezzanine Izquierdo, Torre Sterling, Francisco de Quevedo
117, Sector Jurez); Mexico City (Map pp136-7; x555280-4383; www.mae.es/consulados/mexico; Galileo 114,
Polanco; mPolanco); Oaxaca (x951-518-00-31; Calzada
Porfirio Daz 341, Colonia Reforma)
UK Cancn (x998- 881-01-00; Royal Sands, Blvd Kukulcn
Km 13.5, Zona Hotelera); Guadalajara (x33-3343-2296;
Jess de Rojas 20, Colonia Los Pinos, Zapopan); Mexico City
(Map pp132-3; x55-5242-8500; www.britishembassy

lonelyplanet.com

.gov.uk/mexico; Ro Lerma 71, Colonia Cuauhtmoc; mInsurgentes); consulate in Mexico City (x55-5242-8500; Ro
Usumacinta 26); Tijuana (x664-686-53-20; Blvd Salinas
1500, Fraccionamiento Aviacin Tijuana)
USA Acapulco (x744-469-05-56; Hotel Continental
Emporio, La Costera 121, Local 14); Cabo San Lucas
(x624-143-35-66; Blvd Marina Local C4, Plaza Nautica,
Centro); Cancn (x998-883-02-72; 2o Nivel No 320-323,
Plaza Caracol Dos, Blvd Kukulcn Km 8.5, Zona Hotelera);
Ciudad Jurez (x656-611-30-00; Lpez Mateos 924 Nte);
Guadalajara (x33-3268-2100; Progreso 175, Colonia
Amricas); Hermosillo (x662-289-35-00; Monterrey 141);
Ixtapa (x755-553-21-00; Hotel Fontn, Blvd Ixtapa);
Matamoros (x868-812-44-02; Calle 1 No 2002); Mazatln (x669-916-58-89; Hotel Playa Mazatln, Av Las
Gaviotas 202, Zona Dorada); Mrida (x999-942-57-00;
Calle 60 No 338K, btwn Calles 29 & 31); Mexico City (Map
pp132-3; x55-5080-2000; www.usembassy-mexico
.gov; Paseo de la Reforma 305; mInsurgentes); Monterrey (x81-8345-2120; Av Constitucin 411 Pte); Nogales
(x631-313-81-50; San Jos s/n, Fraccionamiento Los
lamos); Nuevo Laredo (x867-714-05-12; Allende 3330);
Oaxaca (x951-514-30-54; Plaza Santo Domingo, Alcal
407, Interior 20); Puerto Vallarta (x322-222-00-69; Local
1, Interior 17, Paradise Plaza, Paseo de los Cocoteros 1,
Nuevo Vallarta); San Miguel de Allende (x415-152-2357; Hernndez Macas 72); Tijuana (x664-622-74-00;
Tapachula 96, Colonia Hipdromo)

FESTIVALS & EVENTS


Mexicos many fiestas are full-blooded, highly
colorful affairs, which often go on for several
days and provide the chili in the recipe of
Mexican life. In addition to the major national
festivals listed here, each town has many local
saints days, regional fairs, arts festivals and so
on (see destination sections for more information). Theres also a national public holiday
just about every month (see opposite), often
the occasion for yet further partying.
January

Da de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day or Epiphany;


January 6) This is the day when Mexican children traditionally receive gifts rather than at Christmas although
some get two loads of presents!
February/March

Da de la Candelara (Candlemas; February 2) Commemorates the presentation of Jesus in the temple 40 days
after his birth; celebrated with processions, bullfights and
dancing in many towns.
Carnaval (late February or early March) A big bash
preceding the 40-day penance of Lent, Carnaval takes place
during the week or so before Ash Wednesday (which falls

lonelyplanet.com

March/April

Semana Santa (Holy Week) Starts on Palm Sunday


(Domingo de Ramos). Particularly colorful celebrations are
held in San Miguel de Allende, Taxco and Ptzcuaro; most
of Mexico seems to be on the move at this time.
September

Da de la Independencia (Independence Day; September 16) The anniversary of the start of Mexicos 1810
independence war provokes an upsurge of patriotic feeling:
on the evening of the15th, the words of Padre Miguel
Hidalgos famous call to rebellion, the Grito de Dolores, are
repeated from the balcony of every town hall in the land,
usually followed by fireworks. The biggest celebrations are
in Mexico City where the Grito is issued by the national
president from the Palacio Nacional.
November

Da de Todos los Santos (All Saints Day; November 1)


and Da de Muertos (Day of the Dead; November 2)
Every cemetery in the country comes alive as families visit
graveyards to commune with their dead on the night of
November 1 and the day of November 2, when the souls
of the dead are believed to return to earth. The souls of
dead children (angelitos, little angels) are celebrated on
November 1, All Saints Day (see boxed text, p71).
December

Da de Nuestra Seora de Guadalupe (Day of Our


Lady of Guadalupe; December 12) A week or more of
festivities throughout Mexico leads up to this celebration in
honor of the Virgin who appeared to an indigenous Mexican, Juan Diego, in 1531, and has since become Mexicos
religious patron. Children are taken to church dressed as
little Juan Diegos or indigenous girls. The biggest festivities
are at the Baslica de Guadalupe in Mexico City.
Da de Navidad (December 25) Christmas is traditionally
celebrated with a feast in the early hours of December 25,
after midnight Mass.

FOOD
Some of the Eating reviews in city sections of
this book are divided into budget, midrange
and top-end categories. We define a midrange
restaurant as one where a main dish at lunch
or dinner costs between M$70 and M$130;
budget and top-end places charge less than
M$70 and over M$130 respectively.
Typical restaurant hours are 7am (9am
in central Mexico) to midnight. Restaurant
hours are spelt out in this books Eating sec-

tions if they dont conform to these standard


hours. If a restaurant has a closing day, its
usually Sunday, Monday or Tuesday.
For a full introduction to Mexicos fabulously piquant cuisine, see the Food & Drink
chapter (p91).

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS


Mexico is more broad-minded about sexuality than you might expect. Gays and lesbians
dont generally maintain a high profile, but
rarely attract open discrimination or violence.
There are large, lively gay communities and/or
gay tourism scenes in Mexico City, Puerto
Vallarta and Guadalajara (especially), but also
in Cancn, Mazatln, Acapulco, Monterrey
and Veracruz. The legalization of gay partnerships in Mexico City has energized the
gay scene in the capital. Overall, gay men
have a more public profile than lesbians.
Discrimination based on sexual orientation
has been illegal since 1999, and can be punished with up to three years in prison.
Gay Mexico Network (www.gaymexico.net) offers
information plus accommodation and nightlife listings for several cities and has a host
of good links. Gay Mexico (www.gaymexico.com.mx)
has a clickable map linking to gay guides
for many cities. Sergay (www.sergay.com.mx), a
Spanish-language magazine and website, is
focused on Mexico City, but with bar, disco
and meeting-place listings for the whole
country. Hompolis (www.homopolis.com.mx) has
further listings. Also well worth checking
out are Gay.com (www.gay.com), with detailed
gay travel guides for nine Mexican cities, the
International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association
(www.iglta.org), with worldwide information
on travel providers in the gay sector, and
PlanetOut (www.planetout.com).
San Diegobased Arco Iris Tours (www.arcoiris
tours.com) specializes in gay travel to Mexico,
including group trips to gay festivals in
Cancn (May and November), Mexico Citys
Gay Pride Week (June), and New Years in
Puerto Vallarta.

HOLIDAYS
The chief times when Mexicans take breaks
from work are Semana Santa (the week leading up to Easter and a couple of days afterwards), mid-July to mid-August, and the
ChristmasNew Year period. Transportation
and tourist accommodations are heavily
booked at these times.

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46 days before Easter Sunday). Its celebrated most wildly


in Mazatln, Veracruz and La Paz, with parades and masses
of music, food, drink, dancing, fireworks and fun.

D I R E C T O R Y F o o d 971

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972 D I R E C T O R Y I n s u r a n c e

The following national holidays see


banks, post offices, government offices
and many other offices and shops closed
throughout Mexico:
Ao Nuevo (New Years Day) January 1
Da de la Constitucin (Constitution Day) February 5
Da de Nacimiento de Benito Jurez (anniversary of
Benito Jurez birth) March 21
Da del Trabajo (Labor Day) May 1
Da de la Independencia (Independence Day)
September 16
Da de la Revolucin (Revolution Day) November 20
Da de Navidad (Christmas Day) December 25

Holidays that fall on Saturday or Sunday are


often switched to the nearest Friday or Monday.
In addition, many offices and businesses close
on the following optional holidays:
Da de la Bandera (Day of the National Flag) February 24
Viernes Santo (Good Friday) Two days before Easter
Sunday; April or May
Cinco de Mayo (anniversary of Mexicos victory over the
French at Puebla) May 5
Da de la Raza (commemoration of Columbus discovery
of the New World) October 12
Da de Muertos (Day of the Dead) November 2
Da de Nuestra Seora de Guadalupe (Day of Our
Lady of Guadalupe) December 12

INSURANCE
A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss
and medical problems is a good idea. Some
policies specifically exclude dangerous activities such as scuba diving, motorcycling and
even trekking.
You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or
hospitals directly rather than you having to pay
on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim
later, ensure that you keep all documentation.
Check that the policy covers ambulances or an
emergency flight home. For further information on medical insurance, see p999.
For information on motor insurance see
p994.
Worldwide travel cover is available online
at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

INTERNET ACCESS
Most travelers make constant use of Mexicos
thousands of internet cafs (which typically
charge M$10 per hour) and free web-based
email such as Gmail (mail.google.com), Yahoo
(www.yahoo.com) and Hotmail (www.hot
mail.com). Many Mexican internet cafs are
equipped with CD burners, webcams, head-

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phones, Skype and so on, but its a good idea


to carry your own or the camera-to-USB cable
if you plan on burning photos to CD along
the way.
Quite a lot of accommodations have
internet-connected computers for guests to
use (they receive an iicon in this book), a
service for which they may or may not charge.
For travelers with laptops, a growing number
of accommodations provide wi-fi (internet
inalmbrico) access usually free as do a
few cafs, bars and airports.
For lots of useful stuff on connecting to the
web while traveling, visit www.kropla.com.
See p35 for some great websites to start your
Mexico surfing.

LEGAL MATTERS
Mexican Law

Mexican law is based on the Roman and


Napoleonic codes, presuming an accused
person is guilty until proven innocent.
The minimum jail sentence for possession
of more than a token amount of any narcotic,
including marijuana and amphetamines, is
10 months. As in most other countries, the
purchase of controlled medication requires a
doctors prescription.
Its against Mexican law to take any firearm
or ammunition into the country (even unintentionally) without a permit from a Mexican
embassy or consulate.
Road travelers should expect occasional
police or military checkpoints. Officials are
normally looking for drugs, weapons or illegal migrants. Drivers found with drugs or
weapons on board may have their vehicle
confiscated and may be detained for months
while their cases are investigated.
See p994 for information on the legal
aspects of road accidents.
While the legal age for marriage is 12, sex
with someone under 18 is illegal if their consent was obtained by deception, such as a false
promise of marriage.
Useful warnings on Mexican law are found
on the website of the US Department of State
(www.travel.state.gov).

Getting Legal Help


If arrested, you have the right to contact your
embassy or consulate. Consular officials can
tell you your rights, provide lists of local lawyers, monitor your case, make sure you are
treated humanely, and notify your relatives

lonelyplanet.com

MAPS
GeoCenter, Nelles, ITM and the AAA
(American Automobile Association) all produce good country maps of Mexico, suitable
for travel planning, and available internationally for between US$6 and US$15. The
GeoCenter map is recommended for its combination of relief (terrain) shading, archaeological sites, national parks, roads (graded
by quality) and settlements (graded by size).
ITM publishes good 1:1,000,000 (1cm:10km)
maps of some Mexican regions (including the
Yucatn Peninsula and the Pacific coast). For
information on road atlases, see p994.
Tourist offices in Mexico provide free city,
town and regional maps of varying quality.

Bookstores and newsstands sell commercially


published ones. Inegi (Instituto Nacional de Estadstica,
Geografa e Informtica; x800-490-42-00; www.inegi.gob
.mx) publishes two large-scale map series cov-

ering all of Mexico at 1:50,000 (1cm:500m)


and 1:250,000 (1cm:2.5km), plus state maps
at 1:700,000 (1cm:7km). Most of these maps
have been updated within the past decade, and
they are well worth having if you plan to do
any hiking or back-country exploring. Inegis
Centros de Informacin in every Mexican
state capital (listed on the website), and at
least three outlets in Mexico City (see p124),
sell these maps for M$40 to M$70 each.
A good internet source is Maps of Mexico
(www.maps-of-mexico.com), with detailed maps of
all the states and of 90 cities.

MONEY
Mexicos currency is the peso, usually denoted
by the M$ sign. Any prices quoted in US
dollars will normally be written US$5 or 5
USD to avoid misunderstanding. The peso
is divided into 100 centavos. Coins come in
denominations of 20 and 50 centavos and one,
two, five, 10, 20 and 100 pesos. There are notes
of 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 pesos.
For exchange rates, see inside the front
cover. For information on costs, see p32.
The most convenient form of money in
Mexico is a major international credit card or
debit card preferably two if you have them.
Visa, MasterCard and American Express cards
can be used to obtain cash easily from ATMs
in Mexico, and are accepted for payment by
most airlines, car-rental companies and travel
agents, plus many upper midrange and topend hotels, and some restaurants and stores.
Occasionally theres a surcharge for paying by
card, or a discount for paying cash. Making a
purchase by credit card normally gives you a
more favorable exchange rate than exchanging
money at a bank, and isnt subject to commission, but youll normally have to pay your card
issuer a foreign exchange transaction fee of
around 2.5%.
As a backup to credit or debit cards, its a
good idea to take a little cash and a few travelers checks. US dollars are easily the most
exchangeable foreign currency in Mexico. In
tourist areas and many Mexican cities along
the US border, you can often make some purchases in US dollars, though the exchange rate
used will probably not be in your favor. Euros,
British pounds and Canadian dollars, in cash

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or friends but they cant get you out of jail.


By Mexican law, the longest a person can be
detained by police without a specific accusation is 72 hours.
Tourist offices in Mexico, especially those
run by state governments, can often help you
with legal problems such as complaints and
reporting crimes or lost articles. The national
tourism ministry, Sectur (x078, 800-987-82-24),
has two toll-free numbers offering 24-hour
telephone advice.
If you are the victim of a crime, your embassy or consulate, or Sectur or state tourist
offices, can give advice. In some cases, you
may feel there is little to gain by going to the
police, unless you need a statement to present
to your insurance company. If you go to the
police and your Spanish is poor, take a more
fluent speaker. Also take your passport and
tourist card, if you still have them. If you just
want to report a theft for the purposes of an
insurance claim, say you want to poner una
acta de un robo (make a record of a robbery).
This should make it clear that you merely
want a piece of paper and you should get it
without too much trouble.
If Mexican police wrongfully accuse you of
an infraction (as they have often been known
to do in the hope of obtaining a bribe), you
can ask for the officers identification, to speak
to a superior or to be shown documentation
about the law you have supposedly broken.
You can also note the officers name, badge
number, vehicle number and department
(federal, state or municipal). Pay any traffic fines at a police station and get a receipt,
then make your complaint at Sectur or a state
tourist office.

D I R E C T O R Y M a p s 973

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974 D I R E C T O R Y M o n e y

or as travelers checks, are accepted by most


banks and some casas de cambio (exchange
houses), but acceptance is less certain if youre
away from main cities and tourist centers.
Travelers checks should be a major brand,
such as American Express or Visa.
For tips on keeping your money safe while
traveling, see p968.

ATMs
ATMs (caja permanente or cajero automtico)
are plentiful in Mexico, and are the easiest
source of cash. You can use major credit cards
and some bank cards, such as those on the
Cirrus and Plus systems, to withdraw pesos
from ATMs. The exchange rate that banks
use for ATM withdrawals is normally better
than the tourist rate for currency exchange,
though that advantage may be negated by
extra handling fees, interest charges and
other methods that banks have of taking your
money away from you.
To avoid the risk of card cloning, use
ATMs only in secure indoor locations, not
those in stand-alone booths. Card cloners
obtain your card number and PIN by means
of hidden cameras, then make a copy of
your card and use it to withdraw cash from
your account.

Banks & Casas de Cambio


You can exchange cash and travelers checks in
banks or at casas de cambio. Banks go through
a more time-consuming procedure than casas
de cambio, and usually have shorter exchange
hours (typically 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday
and 9am to 1pm Saturday, or shorter hours in
some smaller, sleepier towns). Casas de cambio are easily found in just about every large
or medium-sized town and in many smaller
ones. These places are quick and often open
evenings or weekends, but some dont accept
travelers checks, whereas banks usually do.
Exchange rates vary a little from one bank
or cambio to another. There is often a better
rate for efectivo (cash) than for documento
(travelers checks).
If you have trouble finding a place to change
money, particularly on a weekend, try a hotel,
though the exchange rate wont be the best.

International Transfers
Should you need money wired to you in
Mexico, an easy method is the Dinero en
Minutos service of Western Union (xin the US

lonelyplanet.com
800-325-6000; www.westernunion.com). Its offered by
thousands of bank branches and other businesses around Mexico, identified by blackand-yellow signs proclaiming Western Union
Dinero en Minutos. Your sender pays the
money online or at a Western Union branch,
along with a fee, and gives the details on who
is to receive it and where. When you pick it
up, take along photo identification. Western
Union has offices worldwide.
US post offices (x800-275-8777; www.usps.com)
offer reasonably cheap money transfers to
branches of Bancomer bank in Mexico. The
service is called Dinero Seguro.

Taxes
Mexicos impuesto de valor agregado (IVA,
value-added tax) is levied at 15%. By law the
tax must be included in virtually any price
quoted to you, and should not be added afterward. Signs in stores and notices on restaurant
menus often state IVA incluido. Occasionally
they state instead that IVA must be added to
the quoted prices.
Hotel rooms are also subject to the impuesto sobre hospedaje (ISH, lodging tax).
Each Mexican state sets its own rate, but in
most its 2%. See p959 for further information
on taxes on hotel rooms.

Tipping & Bargaining


In general, workers in small, cheap restaurants
dont expect much in the way of tips, while
those in expensive resorts expect you to be
lavish in your largesse. Workers in the tourism and hospitality industries often depend
on tips to supplement miserable basic wages.
In resorts frequented by foreigners (such
as Cancn, Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta)
tipping is up to US levels of 15%; elsewhere
10% is usually plenty. If you stay a few days
in one place, you should leave up to 10% of
your room costs for the people who have
kept your room clean (assuming they have).
A porter in a midrange hotel will be happy
with M$10 a bag. Taxi drivers dont generally
expect tips unless they provide some special
service. Car parking attendants expect a tip
of M$3 to M$5, and the same is standard for
gas-station attendants.
Room rates are pretty firm, though it can
be worth asking if any discounts are available,
especially if its low season or you are going
to stay a few nights. In markets bargaining is
the rule, and you may pay much more than

D I R E C T O R Y P o s t 975

lonelyplanet.com

POST
An airmail letter or postcard weighing up to
20g costs M$10.50 to the US or Canada, M$13
to Europe or South America, and M$14.50 to
the rest of the world. Items between 20g and
50g cost M$18, M$21 and M$23. Certificado
(registered) service costs an extra M$20. Mark
airmail items Va Area. Delivery times (outbound and inbound) are variable. An airmail
letter from Mexico to the US or Canada (or
vice-versa) should take somewhere between
four and 14 days to arrive. Mail to or from
Europe takes between one and two weeks.
Post offices (oficinas de correos) are typically open from 8am to 6pm Monday to
Friday, and 9am to 1pm Saturday. You can
receive letters and packages care of a post
office if theyre addressed to the post offices
lista de correos (mail list), as follows:
Dolores ABRAM (last name in capitals)
Lista de Correos
Correo Central
Acapulco
Guerrero 00000 (post code)
MEXICO
When the letter reaches the post office, the
name of the addressee is placed on an alphabetical list that is updated daily and often
pinned up on the wall. To claim your mail,
present your passport or other identification.
Theres no charge, but many post offices only
hold lista mail for 10 days before returning it
to the sender. If you think you might pick mail
up more than 10 days after it has arrived, have
it sent to Poste Restante, instead of Lista de
Correos. Poste Restante may hold mail for up
to a month, though no list of what has been
received is posted up.
If youre sending a package internationally
from Mexico, be prepared to open it for customs inspection at the post office; its better
to take packing materials with you, or not seal
it until you get there. For assured and speedy
delivery, you can use one of the more expensive international courier services, such as
UPS (x800-902-92-00; www.ups.com), Federal Express
(x 800-900-11-00; www.fedex.com) or Mexicos
Estafeta ( x 800-903-35-00; www.estafeta.com) .
Packages up to 500g cost up to about M$350
to the US or Canada, or M$450 to Europe.

SHOPPING
Mexicos star buys are the wonderful and
amazingly varied regional handicrafts made
in all parts of the country, predominantly
by indigenous people. You can buy these
artesanas in the villages where they are
produced, or in stores and markets in urban
centers. Artesanas stores in cities will give
you a good overview of whats available and
a basis for price comparisons. Places such as
Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monterrey, San
Miguel de Allende, Puerto Vallarta, Puebla
and Oaxaca have stores selling quality handicrafts from all over Mexico. A few cities have
special markets devoted to crafts, but ordinary
daily or weekly markets always sell crafts too
(including everyday pots and baskets as well
as more artistic products). The quality and
price of market goods may be lower than in
stores. Bargaining is expected in markets,
whereas stores generally have fixed prices.
Traveling to craft-making villages gives you a
chance to see artisans at work, and if you buy
there youll know that more of your money
is likely to go to the artisans themselves and
less to entrepreneurs.
For everyday purchases and consumer
goods, middle-class Mexicans like to shop in
glitzy suburban malls, supermarkets, hypermarkets and department stores. In city centers
youre more likely to find smaller, older shops
and markets with more character.
See p88 for an introduction to many
Mexican handicrafts: ceramics, masks, woodwork, jewelry, metalwork, lacquerware, indigenous textiles, bark paintings and retablos
(also called exvotos). Following are some other
fine products and good buys.
Bags Come in all shapes and sizes, many incorporating
indigenous designs. Those made by the Huichol people are
among the most authentic and original.
Baskets Handmade baskets of multifarious shapes,
sizes and patterns, made of materials like cane, bamboo,
wicker, or rush or palm-leaf strips, are common in Mexican
markets. They can be useful for carrying other purchases
home as well as being appealing in themselves.
Clothes Commercially produced clothing, whether
based on traditional designs or with a Mexican take on
international fashion trends, can be attractive and good
value, including surfwear made by Mexican brands such
as Squalo.
Hammocks Usually made of cotton or nylon, hammocks
come in a variety of sizes and an infinite number of color
patterns easy to buy in Mrida, Palenque, Acapulco,
Puerto Escondido, Zipolite, Mitla and Juchitn.

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the going rate if you accept the first price


quoted. You can also bargain with drivers of
unmetered taxis.

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976 D I R E C T O R Y S o l o T r a v e l e r s

Leather goods Len is Mexicos shoe capital, and has


dozens of stores, though every other sizable city has plenty
of good ones, too. Finely crafted belts, bags, huaraches
(sandals), boots, clothes and saddles are available in
northern and central ranching towns such as Zacatecas,
Chihuahua, Durango, Jerez, Hermosillo, Monterrey, Saltillo
and Guadalajara.
Musical Instruments Paracho, Michoacn, is the guitar
capital of Mexico, and also produces violins, cellos and
other instruments. Elsewhere youll come across maracas,
tambourines, whistles, scrape boards and a variety of
drums. Keep an eye open for tongue drums, often-cylindrical hollowed-out pieces of wood attractively carved or
decorated, with two central tongues of wood each giving a
different note when struck.

SOLO TRAVELERS
A single room normally costs well over half
the price of a double room, but budget travelers can cut accommodation costs in many
places by staying in hostels. Hostels have the
additional advantage of providing ready-made
company, full of helpful travel tips, and are
often a lot of fun. Lone travelers dont need
to remain alone when traveling in Mexico
unless they choose to. Its very easy to team
up with others as theres a steady stream of
people following similar routes around the
country. Local tours are a good way to meet
people and get more out of a place.
Solo travelers should be especially watchful
of their luggage when on the road and should
stay in places with good security for their
valuables, so they dont have to be burdened
with them when out and about. One big drag
of traveling alone can be when you want to
take a quick dip in the ocean youre stuck
with your possessions and theres no one to
watch out for them.
Traveling alone can be a very good way of
getting into the local culture and it definitely
improves your Spanish skills. You can also
get a kick out of doing what you want when
you want. Eating by yourself night after night
can get a bit tiresome, but youll only be left
alone if you want it that way, as Mexicans are
very sociable.

TELEPHONE
Local calls are cheap; international calls can be
expensive, but with widely available discount
cards they neednt be. Calling from your hotel
can be expensive as hotels charge what they
like for this service. Following are the most
common ways to make calls in Mexico.

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Cell Phones
Like other Mexican phone numbers, every
Mexican cell phone (telfono celular) has an
area code (usually the code of the city it was
bought in). The area code and the phones
number total 10 digits. When calling a cell
phone from a landline, you dial x044 before
the 10 digits if the cell phones area code is the
same as the area code you are dialing from,
or x045 if the cell phone has a different
area code. From cell phone to cell phone, just
dial the 10-digit number. To call a Mexican
cell phone from another country, dial your
international access code, followed by the
Mexican country code (x52), then 1, then
the 10-digit number.
If you want to use a cell phone in Mexico,
the three main operators Telcel (www.telcel
.com), IUSACell (www.iusacell.com.mx) and Movistar
(www.movistar.com.mx) all sell phones for around
M$400 to M$800 including a charger and
some call credit. For further credit you can
buy top-up cards for M$100 or more. Telcel
is the most widespread network, with many
sales outlets (including one at Mexico City
airport) and coverage almost everywhere that
has a significant population. Telcel top-up
cards are widely available from newsstands
and minimarts. Mexican cell phones generally
cannot be used in other countries.
Roaming with your own cell phone from
home in Mexico is possible if you have a GSM
phone but it is generally very expensive. Much
cheaper is to buy a local SIM card or chip
from a Telcel or Movistar outlet. You can
usually top these up online.
A good source for further information
on international mobile phone use is www
.kropla.com.

Collect Calls
A llamada por cobrar (collect call) can cost
the receiving party much more than if they
call you, so you may prefer to pay for a quick
call to the other party to ask them to call you
back. If you do need to make a collect call,
you can do so from card phones without a
card. Call an operator on x020 for domestic
calls, or x090 for international calls, or use a
home country direct service, through which
you make an international collect call via an
operator in the country youre calling. The
Mexican term for home country direct is pas
directo. Mexican international operators may
know the access numbers for some countries,

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Internet Telephony
For this you need access to high-speed internet, available at most internet cafs and also
at hotels, cafs and other places with wi-fi
access. You also need an appropriate headset
and microphone. Many internet cafs have
these; some have telephone service installed
and theyll usually advertise this with very
low per-minute costs. Travelers who have accounts with internet phone services such as
Skype (www.skype.com) can use these at internet
cafs, and also on their own laptops in places
with wi-fi access. Can be the cheapest option
if you have an account.

Locutorios & Casetas de Telfono


These are call offices where an on-the-spot
operator connects the call for you. Costs in
casetas and locutorios are often lower than
those for Telmex card phones, and their advantages are that they eliminate street noise
and you dont need a phone card to use
them. They often have a telephone symbol
outside, or signs saying telfono, Lada or
Larga Distancia. In Baja California casetas
are known as cabinas.

Long-Distance Discount Cards


Available from kiosks and some minimarts,
usually in denominations of M$100, M$200
and M$500, these cards marketed by alternative telephone carriers offer substantial
savings on Mexican long-distance calls and international calls when compared with Telmex
card phones, locutorios and often even private
phones. There are many brands just ask for
a tarjeta para llamadas de larga distancia de
descuento (card for discount long-distance
calls). To use them, you call a local or toll-free
access number, then dial in the scratch-off
code from the card, then dial the number
you want in the normal way. You dont put
the discount card into the phone and you can
use them from hotel-room phones, private
phones and Telmex card phones.

Prefixes & Codes


If youre calling a landline number in the town
or city youre in, simply dial the local number

(eight digits in Mexico City, Guadalajara and


Monterrey, seven digits everywhere else).
To call a landline number in another town
or city in Mexico, you need to dial the longdistance prefix x01, followed by the area
code (two digits for Mexico City, Guadalajara
and Monterrey; three digits for everywhere
else) and then the local number. For example, to call from Mexico City to Oaxaca, dial
x01, then the Oaxaca area code x951, then
the seven-digit local number. Youll find area
codes listed under city and town headings
through this book.
To make an international call, dial the international prefix x00, followed by the country
code, area code and local number. For example, to call New York City from Mexico, dial
x00, then the US country code x1, then
the New York City area code x212, then the
local number.
To call a landline number in Mexico from
another country, dial your international
access code, then the Mexico country code
x52, then the area code and number.
See opposite for information on prefixes
for calls to cell phones.

Public Card Phones


These are common in towns and cities, and
youll usually find some at airports, bus stations and around the main plaza. By far the
most common, and most reliable on costs, are
those marked with the name of the countrys
main, almost monopolistic, phone operator,
Telmex (www.telmex.com). To use a Telmex card
phone you need a phone card known as a
tarjeta Ladatel. These are sold at kiosks and
shops everywhere look for the blue-andyellow Ladatel signs. The cards come in
denominations of M$30, M$50 and M$100.
Calls from Telmex card phones cost M$1
per minute for local calls; M$4 per minute
long-distance within Mexico; M$5 per
minute to the US (except Alaska and Hawaii)
or Canada; M$10 per minute to Central
America; and M$20 to M$25 per minute to
the rest of the world. Calls to cell phones are
M$3.12 per minute (local) or M$6.12 per
minute (long-distance).

Toll-Free & Operator Numbers


Toll-free numbers in Mexico (x800 followed by seven digits) always require the
x 01 prefix. You can call most of these
numbers, and emergency, numbers from

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but its best to get this information from your


home country before you leave.
Some telephone casetas and hotels will
make collect calls for you, but they usually
charge for the service.

D I R E C T O R Y Te l e p h o n e 977

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978 D I R E C T O R Y Ti m e

Telmex pay phones without inserting a


telephone card.
US and Canadian toll-free numbers are
x800 or x888 followed by seven digits.
Some of these can be reached from Mexico
(dial x001 before the 800), but you may
have to pay a charge for the call.
For a domestic operator in Mexico, dial
x020; for an international operator, dial
x090. For Mexican directory information,
dial x040.

TIME
Most of the country is on Hora del Centro,
the same as US Central Time (thats GMT
minus six hours in winter, and GMT minus
five hours during daylight saving). Five
northern and western states Chihuahua,
Nayarit, Sinaloa, Sonora and Baja California
Sur are on Hora de las Montaas, the
same as US Mountain Time (GMT minus
seven hours in winter, GMT minus six hours
during daylight saving). Baja California
(Norte) observes Hora del Pacfico, the same
as US Pacific Time (GMT minus eight hours
in winter, GMT minus seven hours during
daylight saving).
Daylight saving time (horario de verano,
summer time) runs from the first Sunday in
April to the last Sunday in October. Clocks
go forward one hour in April and back one
hour in October. The northwestern state of
Sonora ignores daylight saving (like its US
neighbor Arizona), so remains on GMT
minus seven hours all year. Daylight saving is also ignored by a few remote rural
zones, such as the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca
and the Marqus de Comillas area of eastern Chiapas (to the perdition of bus schedules from nearby towns such as Oaxaca
and Palenque).
See the World Map at the back of this
book if you need international time zone
information.

TOILETS
Public toilets are not common, so take advantage of facilities in places such as hotels,
restaurants, bus stations and museums.
When out and about, its a good idea to
carry some toilet paper with you, because it
may not be provided. If theres a bin beside
the toilet, put paper in it because the drains
cant cope otherwise.

lonelyplanet.com

TOURIST INFORMATION
Just about every town of interest to tourists
in Mexico has a state or municipal tourist
office. They are generally helpful with maps,
brochures and questions, and usually some
staff members speak English.
You can call the Mexico City office of
the national tourism ministry Sectur (x078,
800-987-82-24, in the US 888-401-3880, from Europe 0052-55-5089-7500; www.visitmexico.com, www.sectur.gob
.mx) at any time 24 hours a day, seven days

a week for information or help in English


or Spanish.
Following are the contact details for the
head tourism offices of each Mexican state
(some websites are in Spanish only).
Aguascalientes (x449-915-95-04; www.aguas
calientes.gob.mx/turismo)
Baja California (x078, 664-682-33-67; www.discover
bajacalifornia.com)
Baja California Sur (x612-124-01-00; www.bcs
.gob.mx)
Campeche (x981-811-92-29, 800-900-22-67; www
.campechetravel.com)
Chiapas (x961-617-05-50, 800-280-35-00; www
.turismochiapas.gob.mx)
Chihuahua (x614-429-35-96, 800-508-01-11; www
.ah-chihuahua.com, www.chihuahua.gob.mx/turismoweb)
Coahuila (x800-718-42-20; www.secturcoahuila
.gob.mx)
Colima (x312-316-20-21; www.visitacolima.com.mx)
Durango (x618-811-11-07, 800-624-65-67; www
.durangoturismo.com, www.durango.gob.mx)
Guanajuato (x473-732-15-74, 800-714-10-86; www
.guanajuato-travel.com)
Guerrero (x747-471-97-00; www. guerrero.gob.mx)
Hidalgo (x771-718-39-37; www.turismo.hidalgo
.gob.mx)
Jalisco (x33-3668-1600, 800-363-22-00; www.visita
.jalisco.gob.mx)
Mexico City (x800-008-90-90; www.mexicocity.gob.mx)
Mxico State (x722-212-59-98; turismo.edomexico
.gob.mx)
Michoacn (x443-317-23-71, 800-450-23-00; www
.turismomichoacan.gob.mx)
Morelos (x717-314-39-20; www.morelostravel.com)
Nayarit (x311-214-80-71; www.turnay.gob.mx)
Nuevo Len (x81-2020-6789, 800-832-22-00; www
.nl.gob.mx)
Oaxaca (x951-516-01-23; www.oaxaca.travel)
Puebla (x800-326-86-56; www.puebla.com.mx)
Quertaro (x442-238-50-67, 800-715-17-42, in the
US 888-811-6130; www.venaqueretaro.com)
Quintana Roo (x983-835-08-60; http://sedetur.qroo
.gob.mx)

D I R E C T O R Y T r a v e l e r s w i t h D i s a b i l i t i e s 979

San Luis Potos (x444-814-14-16, 800-343-38-87;

the Los Angeles consulate (www.sre.gob.mx/losangeles)


give useful information on visas and similar
matters. The rules are also summarized on
the website of Mexicos Instituto Nacional de
Migracin (INM, National Migration Institute; www.inami
.gob.mx). The Lonely Planet website (www.lonelyplanet
.com) has links to updated visa information.
Citizens of the US, Canada, EU countries,
Argentina, Australia, Chile, New Zealand,
Iceland, Israel, Japan, Norway and Switzerland
are among those who do not need visas to
enter Mexico as tourists. The list changes
sometimes; check well ahead of travel with
your local Mexican embassy or consulate.
Visa procedures, for those who need them,
can take several weeks and you may be required to apply in your country of residence
or citizenship.
For information on passport requirements,
see p983. Non-US citizens passing (even in
transit) through the US on the way to or
from Mexico, or visiting Mexico from the
US, should also check the passport and visa
requirements for the US.

www.descubresanluispotosi.com)
Sinaloa (x669-981-88-86; www.sinaloa-travel.com)
Sonora (x662-289-58-00, in the US 800-476-6672;
www.gotosonora.com)
Tabasco (x800-216-08-42; www.visitetabasco.com,
www.tabasco.gob.mx/turismo)
Tamaulipas (x834-315-61-36, 800-710-65-32, in the
US 888-580-5968; turismo.tamaulipas.gob.mx)
Tlaxcala (x246-465-09-60 ext 1519, 800-509-65-57;
www.tlaxcala.gob.mx/turismo)
Veracruz (x800-837-28-87; www.veracruzturismo
.com.mx)
Yucatn (x999-930-37-60; www.mayayucatan.com.mx)
Zacatecas (x492-922-67-51, 800-712-40-78; www
.turismozacatecas.gob.mx)

TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES


Mexico is not yet very disabled-friendly,
though some hotels and restaurants (mostly
toward the top end of the market) and some
public buildings and archaeological sites provide wheelchair access. Very few sidewalks
have wheelchair ramps. Mobility is easiest in
the major tourist resorts and the more expensive hotels. Bus transportation can be difficult;
flying or taking a taxi is easier. The absence
of formal facilities is partly compensated by
Mexicans helpful attitudes toward others, and
special arrangements are gladly improvised.
Mobility International USA (x541-343-1284; www
.miusa.org) advises disabled travelers on mobility issues and runs exchange programs. Its
website includes international databases of exchange programs and disability organizations,
with several Mexican organizations listed.
In the UK, Radar (x020-7250-3222; www.radar
.org.uk) is run by and for disabled people.
The website has links to good travel and
holiday sites.
Three further good sources for disabled
travelers are MossRehab ResourceNet (www.moss
resourcenet.org), Access-able Travel Source (www.ac
cess-able.com) and Disability Travel and Recreation
Resources (www.makoa.org/travel.htm).

VISAS
Every tourist must have an easily obtainable
Mexican-government tourist card. Some nationalities also need to obtain visas. Because
the regulations sometimes change, its wise
to confirm them with a Mexican embassy
or consulate before you go. The websites
of some Mexican consulates, including the
London consulate (portal.sre.gob.mx/conreinounido) and

Tourist Card & Tourist Fee


The Mexican tourist card officially the forma
migratoria para turista (FMT) is a brief
card document that you must fill out and get
stamped by Mexican immigration when you
enter Mexico, and keep till you leave. Its available at official border crossings, international
airports and ports, and often from airlines,
travel agencies and Mexican consulates.
At the USMexico border you wont usually be given one automatically you have
to ask for it. And at many crossings here you
dont have to get the card stamped at the actual border, as the INM has control points
on the highways into the interior where its
also possible to do it. But its preferable to get
it done at the border itself, in case there are
complications elsewhere.
One section of the card deals with the
length of your stay in Mexico, and this section
is filled out by the immigration officer. The
maximum possible is 180 days, but immigration officers sometimes put a lower number
(as little as 15 or 30 days in some cases) unless
you tell them specifically what you need. Its
advisable to ask for more days than you think
youll need, in case you are delayed or change
your plans.
Though the tourist card itself is free of
charge, it brings with it the obligation to pay

DIRECTORY

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DIRECTORY

980 D I R E C T O R Y V o l u n t e e r i n g

the tourist fee of US$22, called the derecho


para no inmigrante (DNI, nonimmigrant
fee). The exact amount of the fee in pesos
fluctuates with exchange rates. If you enter
Mexico by air, the fee is included in your
airfare. If you enter by land, you must pay
the fee at a bank in Mexico at any time before
you reenter the frontier zone on your way
out of Mexico (or before you check in at
an airport to fly out of Mexico). The frontier zone is the territory between the border
itself and the INMs control points on the
highways leading into the Mexican interior
(usually 20km to 30km from the border).
Most Mexican border posts have on-the-spot
bank offices where you can pay the DNI fee
immediately. When you pay at a bank, your
tourist card will be stamped to prove that
you have paid.
Look after your tourist card because it may
be checked when you leave the country. You
can be fined for not having it.
Tourist cards (and fees) are not necessary
for visits shorter than 72 hours within the
frontier zones along Mexicos northern and
southern borders, but be sure to confirm
details when you cross the border.
A tourist card only permits you to engage
in what are considered to be tourist activities
(including sports, health, artistic and cultural activities). If the purpose of your visit
is to work (even as a volunteer), report or
study, or to participate in humanitarian aid or
human-rights observation, you may well need
a visa. If youre unsure, check with a Mexican
embassy or consulate.
EXTENSIONS & LOST CARDS

If the number of days given on your tourist card is less than the maximum 180 days,
its validity may be extended, one or more
times, up to the maximum. To get a card extended you have to apply to the INM, which
has offices in many towns and cities: theyre
listed on the INM website (www.inm.gob.mx) under
Servicios Migratorios. The procedure costs
around M$200 and should take between half
an hour and three hours, depending on the
office. Youll need your passport, tourist card,
photocopies of the important pages of these
documents and, at some offices, evidence of
sufficient funds. A major credit card is usually OK for the latter, or an amount in travelers checks anywhere from M$100 to M$1000
depending on the office.

lonelyplanet.com

Most INM offices will not extend a card


until a few days before it is due to expire; dont
bother trying earlier.
If you lose your card or need further information, contact your nearest tourist office, or
the Sectur tourist office (x078, 800-987-82-24) in
Mexico City, or your embassy or consulate.
Any of these should be able to give you an
official note to take to your local INM office,
which will issue a replacement for a cost of
about M$450.

VOLUNTEERING
A great way to engage with Mexican communities and contribute something other than
tourist dollars to the country is to do some volunteer work. Many organizations and projects
can use your services for periods from a few
hours to a year or more. Work ranges from
protecting sea turtles to helping disadvantaged
children. Some are looking for people with
relevant experience and/or Spanish language
skills; others can use almost any willing hand.
Longer-term volunteers will often be offered
some kind of accommodation. If you arrange
volunteer work in Mexico through an organization that specializes in bringing people from
other countries, you will often have to pay a
significant sum of money for the opportunity.
If you can make direct personal contact with
a project on the ground in Mexico, your costs
are likely to be much lower. You may just be
asked to contribute a small amount to the
projects running costs.
Many language schools (p966) offer parttime local volunteering opportunities to complement the classes you take.

Volunteer Directories
These sources are good places to start looking
for Mexican volunteer opportunities:
Alliance of European Voluntary Service Organisations (www.alliance-network.org)
Coordinating Committee for International Voluntary Service (www.unesco.org/ccivs)
Idealist.org (www.idealist.org)
Transitions Abroad (www.transitionsabroad.com)
Volunteer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com)

Mexico-Based Programs
Cuernavaca-based Por Un Mejor Hoy (www.hoycom
munity.org) is specifically geared to travelers who
want to combine volunteer work in varied
community projects with cultural immersion
and sightseeing. A one-week stay including

lonelyplanet.com

Organizations Based Outside Mexico


Adelante Abroad (www.adelanteabroad.com) Combines
language-learning with varied volunteer opportunities in
Oaxaca. Charges around US$2000/2500/3000 for one/two/
three months including accommodation but not flights.
AmeriSpan (www.amerispan.com) Can set you up with
a wide range of volunteer placements in Mexico, from
orphanages and womens shelters to nature reserves. Volunteering can be combined with language study. Charges
fees of at least several hundred dollars.
Amigos de las Amricas (www.amigoslink.org)
Sends paying volunteers from the US to work on summer
health, community and youth projects in Latin America;
volunteers receive prior training. Costs around US$4000
including flights.

Council on International Educational Exchange


(www.ciee.org) Arranges volunteer trips.
Earthwatch (www.earthwatch.org) With offices in the
US, Britain, Australia and Japan, Earthwatch runs environmental projects in Mexico (volunteers usually pay around
US$1500 to US$2500 per week, plus flights).
Global Vision International (www.gviusa.com) Work
on marine conservation, sustainable tourism and English-

teaching in the Yucatn Peninsula. Costs from US$2500 for


five weeks or more.
Los Mdicos Voladores (www.flyingdocs.org) Based
in California and Nevada, LMV runs weekend clinics
in northern Mexican areas with poor medical service;
needs medical volunteers, translators, pilots and general
volunteers.
Sipaz (www.sipaz.org) An international peace group,
Sipaz needs Spanish-speaking volunteers to work for a
year or more in Chiapas, especially in the fields of information and human rights observation.

WOMEN TRAVELERS
Women usually have a great time in Mexico
whether traveling with companions or solo,
but its wise to remember that many Mexicans
are still believers in the difference (rather
than the equality) between the sexes. Gender
equality has come a long way in a few decades, and Mexicans are generally a very polite
people, but lone women must expect a few
catcalls and attempts to chat them up. Often
these men only want to talk to you, but you
can discourage unwanted attention by avoiding eye contact (wear sunglasses), dressing
modestly, moving confidently and speaking
coolly but politely if you are addressed and
feel that you must respond. Wearing a wedding ring can prove helpful too. Dont put
yourself in peril by doing things that Mexican
women would not do, such as challenging
a mans masculinity, drinking alone in a
cantina, hitchhiking, walking alone through
empty streets at night, or going alone to
isolated places. Keep a clear head. Excessive
alcohol will make you vulnerable. For moral
support, and company if you want it, head for
accommodations where youre likely to meet
other travelers (such as backpacker hostels
and popular hotels), and join group excursions and activities.
In beach resorts many Mexican women
dress in shorts, skimpy tops or dresses, and
swimsuits of all sizes, though others bow to
modesty and swim in shorts and a T-shirt.
Lone women, and even pairs of women,
should be cautious about going to remote
beach spots.
On the streets of cities and towns youll
notice that women cover up and dont display
too much leg, or even shoulder.
On local transportation its best to don long
or mid-calf-length trousers and a top that
meets the top of your pants, with sleeves of
some sort. Youll feel most comfortable, and

DIRECTORY

accommodation and breakfast costs US$300.


Oaxacas Centro de Esperanza Infantil (p723)
welcomes volunteers at its center for street
kids, and Pia Palmera (p769) at Zipolite on
the Oaxaca coast needs volunteers with reasonable Spanish for a minimum three months to
help in its work with handicapped kids.
In Chiapas, Na Bolom (p813) accepts volunteers on programs to promote indigenous
culture. Tapachulas Albergue Jess El Buen
Pastor (boxed text, p858) can use Spanishspeaking volunteers in its work with injured
and destitute migrants from Central America.
In western Mexico, you can volunteer at the
Centro de Integracin (p548), a school for
special-needs kids in Tapalpa, Jalisco.
Several of the sea-turtle protection projects
along Mexicos beaches including at La
Pesca (boxed text, p421), Tecolutla (p674)
and Puerto Arista (p855) use volunteers at
least some of the year. Pronatura (www.pronatura.
org.mx) is a Mexican environmental NGO that
seeks volunteers to work at sea-turtle nesting
areas in the Yucatn and in other projects.
Other openings for environmental volunteering are with Pulmo Amigos (p308),
which helps protect the Cabo Pulmo
National Marine Park on the Sea of Cortez,
and Servicios Ecotursticos La Ventanilla (p774),
conserving crocodiles, mangroves and tropical dry forest on the Oaxaca coast.

D I R E C T O R Y W o m e n T r a v e l e r s 981

DIRECTORY

982 D I R E C T O R Y W o r k

you can also keep your valuables out of sight


more easily.
Most of all, appear self-assured.

WORK
Mexicans themselves need jobs, and people
who enter Mexico as tourists are not legally
allowed to take employment. The many expats
working in Mexico have usually been posted
there by their companies or organizations
with all the necessary papers.
English speakers (and a few German or
French speakers) may find teaching jobs in
language schools, preparatorias (high schools)
or universities, or can offer personal tutoring.
Mexico City is the best place to get Englishteaching work, and Guadalajara is also good.
Its possible in other major cities. The pay is
low, but you can live on it.
Press ads (especially in local English-language papers and magazines) and telephone
yellow pages are sources of job opportunities.
Pay rates for personal tutoring are rarely more
than M$150 an hour. Positions in high schools

lonelyplanet.com

or universities are more likely to become available at the beginning of each new term; contact institutions that offer bilingual programs
or classes in English. For universities, ask for
an appointment with the director of the language department. Language schools tend to
offer short courses, so teaching opportunities
with them may come up more often.
A foreigner working in Mexico normally
needs a permit or government license, but a
school will often pay a foreign teacher in the
form of a beca (scholarship), and thus circumvent the law, or the schools administration
will procure the appropriate papers.
Its helpful to know at least a little Spanish,
even though only English may be spoken
in class.
Apart from teaching, you might find a little
bar or restaurant work in tourist areas. Its
likely to be part time and short term.
Jobs Abroad (www.jobsabroad.com) posts paid and
unpaid job openings in Mexico. The Lonely
Planet website (www.lonelyplanet.com) has several
useful links.

983

Transportation
CONTENTS
983
983
983
986
989
989
989
990
991
991
993
996
996
996
998

GETTING THERE & AWAY


ENTERING THE COUNTRY
Immigration officers wont generally keep
you waiting any longer than it takes them to
flick through your passport and enter your
length of stay on your tourist card (p979).
All you have to do is remain patient and
polite, even if procedures are slow. Anyone
traveling to Mexico via the US should be
sure to check current US visa and passport
requirements.

Passport
US and Canadian tourists can enter Mexico
without a passport if they have official photo
identification, such as a drivers license, plus
some proof of their citizenship such as an
original birth certificate. But to return to or
transit the US by air, a passport or other secure travel document such as a Nexus card
is required. To return to or transit the US
by land or sea, Americans and Canadians
must present either a passport, or other
documents proving identity and citizenship (for example drivers license and birth
certificate), or the recently introduced US
passport card, or a Nexus or other trusted
traveler card. Canadians flying back from
Mexico to Canada are advised to carry a

mexico-11-transportation.indd 983

The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. Check directly


with the airline or a travel agent to make
sure you understand how a fare (and ticket
you may buy) works and be aware of the
security requirements for international
travel. Shop carefully. The details given in
this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own
careful, up-to-date research.

TRANSPORTATION

Getting There & Away


Entering The Country
Air
Land
Sea
Getting Around
Air
Bicycle
Boat
Bus
Car & Motorcycle
Colectivos & Other Vehicles
Hitchhiking
Local Transportation
Train

THINGS CHANGE

passport. Further information is available


on the websites of the US State Department
(www.travel.state.gov), US Customs &
Border Protection (www.cbp.gov), the US
Department of Homeland Security (www
.dhs.gov) and Canadas Foreign Affairs
Ministry (www.voyage.gc.ca).
In any case its much better to travel to
Mexico with a passport because officials of
all countries are used to passports and may
delay people who have other documents. In
Mexico you will often need your passport
if you change money and when you check
into hotels.
All citizens of countries other than the US
and Canada should have a passport thats
valid for at least six months after they arrive
in Mexico.
Travelers under 18 who are not accompanied by both their parents may need special
documentation (see p965).
For information on Mexican visa requirements and the tourist card, see p979.

AIR

Airports & Airlines


The following Mexican airports receive direct international flights. All have flights from
the US (some from several US cities, some
from only one or two). Only Mexico City and
Cancn receive direct scheduled flights from
Europe, Canada, Central and South America
and Havana, Cuba.
Mexico City, Cancn, Guadalajara and
Monterrey have the most international
flights.

11/12/2008 5:45:23 PM

984 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r

TRANSPORTATION

Acapulco (ACA; x744-466-94-34; www.oma.bz)


Aguascalientes (AGU; x449-915-28-06;
aguascalientes.aeropuertosgap.com.mx)
Bajo (El Bajo, Len; BJX; x477-713-64-06; guanajuato
.aeropuertosgap.com.mx)
Cancn (CUN; x998-886-00-47; www.cancun-airport
.com)
Chihuahua (CUU; x614-446-82-33; www.oma.bz)
Cozumel (CZM; x987-872-20-81; www.asur.com.mx)
Durango (DGO; x618-817-88-98; www.oma.bz)
Guadalajara (GDL; x33-3688-5504; guadalajara
.aeropuertosgap.com.mx)
Guaymas (GYM; x622-221-05-11; guaymas.asa.gob.mx)
Hermosillo (HMO; x662-261-00-00; hermosillo.
aeropuertosgap.com.mx)
Huatulco (Bahas de Huatulco; HUX; x958-581-90-04;
www.asur.com.mx)
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo (ZIH; x755-554-20-70; www
.oma.bz)
La Paz (LAP; x614-124-63-36; lapaz.aeropuertosgap
.com.mx)
Loreto (LTO; x613-135-04-54; loreto.asa.gob.mx)
Los Cabos (SJD; x624-146-50-13; loscabos.aeropuertos
gap.com.mx)
Manzanillo (Playa de Oro; ZLO; x314-333-11-19;
manzanillo.aeropuertosgap.com.mx)
Mazatln (MZT; x669-928-04-38; www.oma.bz)
Mrida (MID; x999-946-15-30; www.asur.com.mx)
Mexico City (MEX; x55-2482-2424; www.aicm.com.mx)

lonelyplanet.com

Monterrey (MTY; x81-8030-9090; www.adelnorte


.com.mx)

Morelia (MLM; x443-317-14-11; morelia.aeropuertos


gap.com.mx)
Oaxaca (OAX; x951-511-50-88; www.asur.com.mx)
Puebla (PBC; x222-232-00-32; www.aeropuerto
puebla.com)
Puerto Vallarta (PVR; x322-221-12-98; vallarta
.aeropuertosgap.com.mx)
Quertaro (QRO; x442-192-55-00; www.aiq.com.mx)
San Luis Potos (SLP; x444-822-00-95; www.oma.bz)
Tampico (TAM; x833-224-48-00; www.oma.bz)
Tijuana (TIJ; x664-683-24-18; tijuana.aeropuertosgap
.com.mx)
Toluca (TLC; x721-213-15-44; www.aeropuerto
internacionaldetoluca.com)
Torren (TRC; x871-712-82-39; www.oma.bz)
Veracruz (VER; x229-934-90-08; www.asur.com.mx)
Villahermosa (VSA; x993-356-01-57; www.asur
.com.mx)
Zacatecas (ZCL; x492-985-02-23; www.oma.bz)
Mexicos two flag airlines are Mexicana and
Aeromxico, both formerly state-controlled.
Mexicana was bought by Grupo Posadas,
Mexicos biggest hotel company, in 2005,
and Aeromxico was sold to a consortium led by Banamex in 2007. Their safety

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL


Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel
is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a
global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global
warming.

Flying & Climate Change


Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer
distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and
the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average households gas and electricity
consumption over a whole year.

Carbon Offset Schemes


Climatecare.org and other websites use carbon calculators that allow travelers to offset the
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable
travel schemes that reduce global warming including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan
and Uganda.
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its
staff and author travel.
For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.

mexico-11-transportation.indd 984

11/12/2008 5:45:39 PM

lonelyplanet.com

records are comparable to major US and


European airlines.
AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM MEXICO

Aero California (code JR; x800-237-62-25; www

mexico-11-transportation.indd 985

Lan Airlines (code LA; x800-700-67-00; plane.lan


.com; hub Santiago)
LTU (code LT; x998-887-24-07; www.ltu.de; hub
Dusseldorf )
Lufthansa (code LH; x55-5230-0000; www.lufthansa
.com; hub Frankfurt)
Mexicana (code MX; x800-502-20-00; www.mexicana
.com; hub Mexico City)
Northwest Airlines (code NW; x55-5279-5390; www
.nwa.com; hubs Detroit, Minneapolis/St Paul, Memphis)
Spirit Airlines (code NK; xin the US 800-772-7117;
www.spiritair.com; hub Fort Lauderdale)
Sun Country Airlines (code SY; xin the US 800-8006557; www.suncountry.com; hub Minneapolis/St Paul)
TACA Airlines (code TA; x800-400-8222; www.taca
.com; hub San Salvador)
Ted (code UA; x800-003-07-77; www.flyted.com; hub
Denver)
United Airlines (code UA; x800-003-07-77; www
.united.com; hub Los Angeles)
US Airways (code US; x800-428-43-22; www.usair
ways.com; hub Philadelphia)
Varig (code RG; x55-5280-9192; www.varig.com.br;
hub So Paulo)
VivaAerobus (code VB; x81-8215-0150; www
.vivaaerobus.com; hub Monterrey)

TRANSPORTATION

.aerocalifornia.com; hub Tijuana)


Aerolneas Argentinas (code AR; x800-123-85-88;
www.aerolineas.com.ar; hub Buenos Aires)
Aeromar (code VW; x800-237-66-27; www.aeromar
.com.mx; hub Mexico City)
Aeromxico (code AM; x800-021-40-10; www
.aeromexico.com; hub Mexico City)
Air Canada (code AC; x800-719-28-27; www
.aircanada.ca; hub Toronto)
Air Europa (code UX; x998-898-22-55; www.air
europa.com; hub Madrid)
Air France (code AF; x800-123-46-60; www.airfrance
.com; hub Paris)
Aladia (code AYD; x800-252-3421; www.aladia.com;
hub Cancn)
Alaska Airlines (code AS; x800-252-75-22; www
.alaskaair.com; hub Seattle)
American Airlines (code AA; x800-904-60-00; www
.aa.com; hub Dallas)
America West (code HP; x800-428-43-22; www
.americawest.com; hub Phoenix)
ATA Airlines (code TZ; x800-435-92-82; www.ata.com;
hub Chicago)
Aviacsa (code 6A; x800-284-22-72; www.aviacsa.com;
hub Mexico City)
Avianca (code AV; x800-123-31-20; www.avianca
.com; hub Bogot)
British Airways (code BA; x55-5387-0321; www
.britishairways.com; hub Heathrow Airport, London)
Click Mexicana (code QA; x800-122-54-25; www
.click.com.mx; hubs Cancn, Mexico City)
Continental Airlines (code CO; x800-900-50-00;
www.continental.com; hub Houston)
Copa Airlines (code CM; x800-265-26-72; www
.copaair.com; hub Panama City)
Cubana (code CU; x52-5250-6355; www.cubana.co.cu;
hub Havana)
Delta Air Lines (code DL; x800-123-47-10; www
.delta.com; hub Atlanta)
Frontier Airlines (code F9; xin the US 800-432-1359;
www.frontierairlines.com; hub Denver)
Iberia (code IB; x55-1101-1515; www.iberia.com; hub
Madrid)
Interjet (code 4O x800-011-23-45; www.interjet.com
.mx; hub Toluca)
Japan Airlines (code JL; x55-5242-0150; www.ar.jal
.com; hub Tokyo)
KLM (code KL; x55-5279-5390; www.klm.com; hub
Amsterdam)

G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r 985

Tickets
The cost of flying to Mexico is usually higher
around Christmas and New Year, and during July and August. Weekends can be more
costly than weekdays. In addition to air-ticket
websites and travel agencies, its often worth
checking airlines own websites for special
deals. Newspapers, magazines and websites
serving Mexican communities in other
countries are also good sources. The Lonely
Planet website (www.lonelyplanet.com) has good
links too.
If Mexico is part of a bigger trip encompassing other countries in Latin America or
elsewhere, the best ticket for you may be an
open-jaw (where you fly into one place and
out of another, covering the intervening distance by land), or a round-the-world ticket
(these can cost as little as UK900 or A$2100),
or a Circle Pacific ticket which uses a combination of airlines to travel around the Pacific
region. Airtreks (www.airtreks.com) is one good
source for multistop tickets.
International online booking agencies
worth a look include CheapTickets (www
.cheaptickets.com) and, for students and travelers under the age of 26, STA Travel (www.sta
travel.com).

11/12/2008 5:45:40 PM

986 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY L a n d

Asia
You normally have to make a connection in
the US or Canada (often Los Angeles, San
Francisco or Vancouver), and maybe one
in Asia as well. From more westerly Asian
points such as Bangkok, routes via Europe
are also an option. For online bookings try
www.zuji.com.

TRANSPORTATION

Australia & New Zealand


The cheapest routes are usually via the US
(normally Los Angeles). Youre normally
looking at A$2300 or NZ$2300 or more,
round-trip (plus several hundred dollars extra
at high season).
For online fares try www.travel.com
.au or www.zuji.com from Australia, and
www.travel.co.nz or www.zuji.co.nz from
New Zealand.

Canada
Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver all have
direct flights to Mexico, though better deals
are often available with a change of flight in
the US. Round-trip fares from Toronto start
at around C$900 to Mexico City, Cancn
or Puerto Vallarta. For online bookings
try www.kayak.com, www.expedia.ca and
www.travelocity.ca.

Central & South America & the


Caribbean
You can fly direct to Mexico City from at
least eight cities in South America, and from
Panama City, San Jos (Costa Rica), San
Salvador, Guatemala City, Havana (Cuba)
and Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic).
There are also direct flights to Cancn from
So Paulo, Panama City, Havana, Guatemala
City and Flores (Guatemala). Round-trip
fares to Mexico City start at around US$500
from Guatemala City and US$800 to US$1000
from South America. Viajo.com (www.viajo
.com) is an online source of air tickets from
several countries.

Europe
There are direct flights from Europe to
Mexico City, Cancn and Monterrey.
Airlines include Aeromxico, Air France,
Air Madrid, British Airways, Iberia, KLM,
LTU, Lufthansa and Air Europa. An alternative is to fly with a US or Canadian airline or alliance partner, changing planes in
North America.

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Round-trip fares to Mexico City or


Cancn normally start at around UK500
to UK600 from London, or 600 to 700
from Frankfurt, Paris or Madrid. For online bookings throughout Europe, try www
.opodo.com or www.ebookers.com.

The USA
You can fly to Mexico without changing
planes from around 30 US cities. There
are one-stop connecting flights from
many others. Continental (from Houston),
Aeromxico and Mexicana all offer large
numbers of Mexican destinations.
US budget airlines such as ATA, Spirit Air,
America West, Frontier Airlines and Ted all
offer flights to Mexico, and economical fares
are also available on Mexicos Aero California
and Aviacsa. If youre lucky you can get
round-trip fares from the US to Mexico for
US$250. If youre not lucky, budget operators can cost as much as other airlines.
Low-season discounted round-trip fares are
typically in the US$350 to US$500 range. In
high season you may have to pay US$100 to
US$200 more.
For current bargain offers, check Airfare
Watchdog (www.airfarewatchdog.com). Online
tickets are offered by www.cheaptickets
.com, www.expedia.com, www.kayak.com,
www.lowestfare.com, www.orbitz.com and
www.travelocity.com.

LAND

Border Crossings
There are over 40 official crossing points on
the USMexico border. There are about 10
between Guatemala and Mexico, and two
between Belize and Mexico. Youll find more
information on the most important crossings in this books regional chapters. Most
Mexican border towns are not places where
many travelers have much reason to linger.

Car & Motorcycle


The rules for taking a vehicle into Mexico
change from time to time. You can check
with a Mexican consulate, Sanborns (x800222-01-58; www.sanbornsinsurance.com) or, in the US
and Canada, the free Mexican tourist information
number (x800-401-3880).
You may not find gasoline or mechanics
available at all Mexicos road borders: before
crossing the border, make sure you have
enough fuel to get to the next sizable town

11/12/2008 5:45:40 PM

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inside Mexico. For information on driving


and motorcycling once youre inside Mexico,
see p993.

G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY L a n d 987

VEHICLE PERMIT

mexico-11-transportation.indd 987

TRANSPORTATION

You will need a permiso de importacin


temporal de vehculos (temporary vehicle
import permit) if you want to take a vehicle
beyond Baja California, beyond Guaymas in
Sonora state, or beyond the border zone that
extends 20km to 30km into Mexico along
the rest of the US frontier and up to 70km
from the Guatemalan and Belize frontiers.
Officials at posts of the Instituto Nacional
de Migracin (INM; National Immigration
Institute) in the border zones, and at the
ferry terminal at La Paz, Baja California, if
you are taking a vehicle across from there to
mainland Mexico, will want to see your permit. Permits are not needed to take vehicles
into Baja California itself, and the state of
Sonora does not require them for travel as
far south as Guaymas (see p318 for details of
the Sonora regulations).
The permits are issued at offices at border
crossings or (in some cases) at posts a few
kilometers into Mexico, at Ensenada port
and Pichilingue (La Paz) ferry terminal in
Baja California, and by the Mexican consulates in Chicago, Houston, Dallas, Austin,
Fort Worth, Los Angeles, Sacramento, San
Bernardino, Phoenix, Albuquerque and
Denver. Details of all these locations are given
at www.banjercito.com.mx (click on Red de
Mdulos IITV). You can also apply for the
permit online at www.banjercito.com.mx
(Application for Temporary Import Permit
for Vehicles), in which case it will be delivered
to you by courier.
The fee for the permit is the peso equivalent of US$29.70 if obtained at or after the
border, US$39.60 from a Mexican consulate,
or US$49.50 online. You can also pre-register
online which speeds up the process of actually obtaining the permit at a consulate or
the border.
The person importing the vehicle will need
to carry the original and one or two photocopies of each of the following documents
(people at the office may make photocopies
for a small fee), which as a rule must all be in
his/her own name (except that you can bring
in your spouses, parents or childs vehicle if
you can show a marriage or birth certificate
proving your relationship):

tourist card (FMT): at the border go to


migracin before you process your vehicle permit.
certificate of title or registration certificate for the vehicle (note that you should
have both of these if you plan to drive
through Mexico into either Guatemala
or Belize).
a Visa, MasterCard or American Express credit card, issued by a an institution outside of Mexico; if you dont have
one you must pay a returnable deposit of
between US$200 and US$400 (depending on how old the car is) at the border.
Your card details or deposit serve as a
guarantee that youll take the car out of
Mexico before your tourist card (FMT)
expires. Note: for online and consulate
applications, only Visa and MasterCard
are accepted.
proof of citizenship or residency, such
as a passport, birth certificate or voters
registration card.
drivers license.
if the vehicle is not fully paid for, a credit
contract from the financing institution
or an invoice letter that is less than three
months old.
for a leased or rented vehicle (though few
US rental firms allow their vehicles to be
taken into Mexico), the contract, in the
name of the person importing the vehicle, and a letter from the rental company
authorizing you to take it out of the US.
for a company car, proof of employment
by the company and proof of the companys ownership of the vehicle.

One person cannot bring in two vehicles. If


you have a motorcycle attached to your car,
youll need another adult traveling with you to
obtain a permit for the motorcycle, and he/she
will need to have all the right papers for it.
With the permit you will be given a sticker
to be displayed on your windshield.
You have the option to take the vehicle in
and out of Mexico for the period shown on
your tourist card. Ask for a tarjetn de internacin, a document which you will exchange
for a comprobante de retorno each time you
leave Mexico; when you return to Mexico, you
swap the comprobante for another tarjetn.
When you leave Mexico the last time, you
must have the import permit canceled by the
Mexican authorities. An official may do this

11/12/2008 5:45:40 PM

TRANSPORTATION

988 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY L a n d

as you enter the border zone, usually 20km


to 30km before the border itself. If not, youll
have to find the right official at the border
crossing. If you leave Mexico without having the permit canceled, the authorities may
assume youve left the vehicle in the country illegally and decide to keep your deposit,
charge a fine to your credit card, or deny you
permission to bring a vehicle into the country
on your next trip.
Only the owner may take the vehicle out of
Mexico. If the vehicle is wrecked completely,
you must contact your consulate or a Mexican
customs office to make arrangements to leave
without it.

Belize
Around 18 daily buses run by Novelos (in Belize
City x227-20-25) travel between Belize City and
Chetumal, Mexico (US$10, four hours), calling at the Belizean towns of Orange Walk and
Corozal en route. See p913 for more details.

Guatemala
The road borders at La Mesilla/Ciudad
Cuauhtmoc, Ciudad Tecn Umn/Ciudad
Hidalgo and El Carmen/Talismn are all
linked to Guatemala City, and nearby cities
within Guatemala and Mexico, by plentiful
buses and/or combis. A few daily buses are
run all the way between Guatemala City and
Tapachula, Chiapas (six hours) via Escuintla
and Mazatenango by Trans Galgos Inter (in
Guatemala City x2232-3661; www.transgalgosinter.com
.gt; US$25-35), Lnea Dorada (in Guatemala City x22325506; www.tikalmayanworld.com; US$15) and Tica Bus (in
Guatemala City x2366-4038; www.ticabus.com; US$16).

There are a few daily buses between Flores,


Guatemala, and Chetumal (US$28, seven to
eight hours), via Belize City, run by Lnea
Dorada/Mundo Maya (in Flores x7926-0070) and
San Juan Travel (in Flores x7926-0041).
For the Ro Usumacinta route between
Flores and Palenque, Mexico, several daily
2nd-class buses run from Flores to Bethel
(US$4, four hours), on the Guatemalan bank
of the Usumacinta. The 40-minute boat trip
from Bethel to Frontera Corozal, Mexico,
costs US$7 to US$13 per person; an alternative is to take a bus from Flores that continues
through Bethel to La Tcnica (US$6, five to six
hours), from which its only a US$1.50, fiveminute river crossing to Frontera Corozal.
Vans run from Frontera Corozal to Palenque
(US$6, three hours, 13 daily). Travel agen-

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cies in Palenque and Flores offer bus-boatbus packages between the two places from
around US$40, but if youre traveling this
route its well worth detouring to the outstanding Maya ruins at Yaxchiln (see p845),
near Frontera Corozal.

The USA
BUS

Cross-border bus services, mainly used by


Mexicans working in the US, link many
US cities with northern Mexican cities.
Theyre not very well publicized: Spanishlanguage newspapers in the US have the
most ads. The major companies include
Autobuses Americanos (www.autobusesamericanos
.com.mx), operating to northeast Mexico, central north Mexico and central Mexico from
Los Angeles, Phoenix, Denver, Albuquerque,
Chicago and several Texan cities; Tufesa
(www.tufesa.com.mx), linking Los Angeles, Las
Vegas, Phoenix and Tucson with northwest
Mexico; Crucero (x800-531-5332; www.crucero-usa
.com), operating from California, Nevada and
Arizona to northwest Mexico; and Transportes
Baldomero Corral (www.tbcconexionphoenix.com), operating between Arizona and northwest
Mexico. Greyhound (x 800-231-2222; www.grey
hound.com) has some cross-border routes: it
uses Mexican associate companies to actually
carry its passengers on many of them.
Some sample cross-border services:
Route

Fare

Duration

Los Angeles-Hermosillo
Los Angeles-Los Mochis
Los Angeles-Mexicali
Phoenix-lamos
Phoenix-Hermosillo
Dallas-Monterrey
Dallas-Reynosa
Houston-Matamoros
Houston-Monterrey

US$90
US$110
US$35
US$50
US$40
US$50
US$46
US$25
US$40

16hr
24hr
5hr
12hr
8hr
12hr
11hr
9hr
10hr

You can also, often in little or no extra time,


make your way to the border on one bus (or
train), cross it on foot or by local bus, and
then catch an onward bus on the other side.
Greyhound serves many US border cities; to
reach others, transfer from Greyhound to a
smaller bus line. Greyhounds one-way fares
to El Paso, for example, are US$64 from Los
Angeles (16 hours), US$129 to US$141 from
Chicago (34 hours) and US$128 from New
York (52 hours).

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lonelyplanet.com
CAR & MOTORCYCLE

For information on the procedures for taking


a vehicle into Mexico, see p986, and p318 for
simpler and cheaper arrangements for much
of the state of Sonora.
If youre traveling from Mexico into the
US at a busy time of year, have a look at the
website of US Customs & Border Protection (www
.cbp.gov), which posts waiting times at entry
points (under Travel).

G E T T I N G A R O U N D A i r 989

cruise from California, can cost well under


US$1000 per person for 10 days.
Following are some of the cruise lines visiting Mexico, with US phone numbers:
Carnival Cruise Lines (x888-227-6482; www
.carnival.com)

Celebrity Cruises (x800-647-2251; www.celebrity.com)


Crystal Cruises (x888-722-0021; www.crystalcruises
.com)

Holland America Line (x877-724-5425; www.holland


america.com)

Though there are no regular passenger trains


on the Mexican side of the USMexico border, its quite possible to reach the US side
of the border by rail. Trains can be quicker
and cheaper than buses, or slower and more
expensive, depending on the route. Amtrak
(x800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) serves four US
cities from which access to Mexico is easy: San
Diego, California (opposite Tijuana); El Paso,
Texas (opposite Ciudad Jurez); Del Rio, Texas
(opposite Ciudad Acua) and San Antonio,
Texas, which is linked by bus to Eagle Pass
(opposite Piedras Negras) and Laredo (opposite Nuevo Laredo).

SEA
For those who like to combine snatches of
Mexico with a life of ease on the high seas,
cruises from the US enable you to enjoy activities and attractions on and near Mexicos
coasts without having to worry about the logistics of accommodations, eating or transportation. Mexico is the worlds most popular
cruise destination, with over six million cruise
passengers a year arriving at Mexican ports.
Caribbean Mexico is the most popular cruise
destination, usually in combination with other
Caribbean stops and/or Key West, Florida,
and Isla Cozumel is the single busiest stop.
Mexicos other Caribbean cruise ports are
Puerto Morelos and Calica, just south of Playa
del Carmen. The Costa Maya terminal at
Mahahual was destroyed by Hurricane Dean
in 2007 but there are plans to rebuild it.
On the Pacific route (the Mexican Riviera
in cruise parlance), the main ports of call
are Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatln,
Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco; cruises also
call at Manzanillo, Zihuatanejo, Bahas
de Huatulco and the new Puerto Chiapas,
near Tapachula.
A Caribbean cruise from ports in the
southeastern US, or a Mexican Riviera

mexico-11-transportation.indd 989

Norwegian Cruise Lines (x800-327-7030; www


.ncl.com)

P&O Cruises (x415-382-8900; www.pocruises.com)


Princess Cruises (x800-774-6237; www.princess.com)
Royal Caribbean International (x800-398-9813;
www.royalcaribbean.com)

GETTING AROUND

TRANSPORTATION

TRAIN

AIR
All large and many smaller cities in Mexico
have airports and passenger services.
Depending on the fare you get, flying can
be good value on longer journeys, especially
considering the long bus trip that is probably the alternative. Domestic flights within
Mexico are sometimes cheaper if you book
them before you go to Mexico, in conjunction with an international roundt-rip ticket.

Airlines in Mexico
Aeromxico and Mexicana are the countrys
two major airlines. There are also numerous
smaller ones, often cheaper and often flying
routes between provincial cities ignored by
the bigger two. Several low-cost airlines have
started operations in recent years, including
Alma de Mxico, with its hub at Guadalajara,
Avolar (hub: Tijuana), Interjet (hub: Toluca),
VivaAerobus (hub: Monterrey), Volaris (hub:
Toluca) and Click Mexicana (Mexicanas
no-frills subsidiary). At the time of writing
the low-cost Lneas Areas Azteca had its
DEPARTURE TAX
A departure tax equivalent to about M$250
is levied on international flights from
Mexico. Its usually included in your ticket
cost, but if it isnt, you must pay in cash during airport check-in. Ask your travel agent
in advance.

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990 G E T T I N G A R O U N D B i c y c l e

lonelyplanet.com

MEXICAN DOMESTIC AIRLINES

Airline

Telephone

Website

Areo Calafia
Aero California

x624-143-43-02
x800-237-62-25

www.aereocalafia.com.mx
www.aerocalifornia.com

Aeromar

x800-237-66-27

TRANSPORTATION

Aeromxico
x800-021-40-00
Aeromxico Connect x800-800-23-76
Aladia

x800-252-34-21

Alma de Mxico

x800-800-25-62

Aviacsa

x800-284-22-72

Avolar

x800-212-86-52

Click Mexicana

x800-122-54-25

Interjet

x800-011-23-45

Magnicharters

x800-201-14-04

Mexicana
VivaAerobus

x800-502-20-00
x81-8215-0150

Volaris

x800-786-52-74

Areas served

Baja California & northwest


La Paz & 18 other cities around
the country
www.aeromar.com.mx
Central Mexico, west, northeast,
Gulf coast, southeast
www.aeromexico.com
over 50 cities nationwide
www.amconnect.com
Central Mexico, Baja California,
north, west, Gulf coast
www.aladia.com
Mexico City, Monterrey, Guadalajara,
Puebla, Acapulco, Cancn
www.alma.com.mx
Guadalajara & 28 other cities around
the country
www.aviacsa.com
Mexico City & 19 other cities around
the country
www.avolar.com.mx
Tijuana & 18 other cities in the center,
west, northwest & southeast
www.click.com.mx
Mexico City & 24 other cities around
the country
www.interjet.com.mx
Toluca & 14 other cities around
the country
www.magnicharters.com.mx Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monterrey,
Bajo, Mrida, coastal resorts
www.mexicana.com
over 50 cities nationwide
www.vivaaerobus.com
Monterrey & 18 other cities around
the country
www.volaris.com.mx
Toluca & 16 other cities around the city

Note: Aeromxico Connect and Aeromar are affiliates of Aeromxico and normally share its booking facilities.

operating license suspended by the Mexican


authorities because of safety violations.
The US Federal Aviation Administration
(FAA) considers Mexicos Civil Aviation
Authority to be in compliance with international aviation safety standards.

Fares
Fares can depend on whether you fly at a busy
or quiet time of day, week or year, and how
far ahead you book and pay. High season
generally corresponds to the Mexican holiday
seasons (see p971). Youll often save money
if you pay for the ticket a few days ahead or if
you fly late in the evening. Round-trip fares
are usually simply twice the price of oneway tickets, though some cheaper advancepayment deals do exist.
Typical one-way fares from Mexico City
with nonbudget airlines to most Mexican cities are between about M$1300 and M$2100
including taxes and charges, depending
mainly on distance. Low-cost airlines flying

mexico-11-transportation.indd 990

from Toluca, 50km west of Mexico City, may


charge up to 50% less.

BICYCLE
Cycling is not a common way to tour Mexico.
The size of the country, reports of highway
robbery, poor road surfaces, careless motorists and pedestrians and other road hazards
(see p995) are deterrents. However, biking
around is certainly possible if youre prepared for the challenges. You should be fit,
use the best equipment, and be fully able to
handle your own repairs. Take the mountainous topography and hot climate into account when planning your route. Bike lanes
are rare.
All cities have bicycle stores: a decent
mountain bike suitable for a few weeks touring costs around M$5000. Dont expect to
get much of that back by selling it afterwards
unless you have time on your side.
If youre interested in a long Mexican ride,
consider the bring-your-own-bike tours of

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the Yucatn Peninsula, Chiapas, Oaxaca,


Pacific Mexico and Michoacn, up to a month
long, offered by the fun and friendly !El Tour
(www.bikemexico.com).

BOAT

BUS
Mexico has a good road and bus network,
and comfortable, frequent, reasonably
priced bus services connect all cities. Most
cities and towns have one main bus terminal where all long-distance buses arrive and
depart. It may be called the Terminal de
Autobuses, Central de Autobuses, Central
Camionera or simply La Central (not to be
confused with el centro, the city center!) If
there is no single main terminal, different
bus companies will have separate terminals
scattered around town.
Baggage is safe if stowed in the bus baggage
hold, but get a receipt for it when you hand
it over. Keep your most valuable documents
(passport, money etc) in the cabin with you,
and keep them closely protected.
Highway robbery happens very rarely.
The risk is higher at night, on isolated
stretches of highway far from cities, and in
2nd-class buses.

Classes
DELUXE

De lujo services, sometimes termed ejecutivo


(executive), run mainly on the busy routes.
They are swift, modern and comfortable,
with reclining seats, adequate legroom, aircon, few or no stops, toilets on board (but
not necessarily toilet paper), and sometimes
drinks or snacks. They usually show movies
on video screens.
FIRST CLASS

Primera (1a) clase buses have a comfortable


numbered seat for each passenger. All sizable
towns have 1st-class bus services. Standards
of comfort are adequate at the very least. The
buses usually have air-conditioning and a toilet and they stop infrequently. They always
show movies (often bad ones) for most of the
trip: too bad if you dont want to watch, as all
seats face a video screen.
Bring a sweater or jacket to combat overzealous air-conditioning. As with deluxe
buses, you buy your ticket in the bus station
before boarding.

TRANSPORTATION

Vehicle and passenger ferries connecting Baja


California with the Mexican mainland sail
between Santa Rosala and Guaymas, La Paz
and Mazatln, and La Paz and Topolobampo.
One-way passenger seat fares cost from
M$550 to M$800; a car up to 5m in length
costs between M$1000 and M$2500. There
are also ferries from the Yucatn Peninsula
to the islands of Isla Mujeres (p878), Isla Cozumel (p892) and Isla Holbox (p881).

G E T T I N G A R O U N D B o a t 991

SECOND CLASS

Segunda (2a) clase buses serve small towns and


villages, and provide cheaper, slower travel
on some intercity routes. A few are almost
as quick, comfortable and direct as 1st-class
buses. Others are old, slow and shabby.
Many 2nd-class services have no ticket
office; you just pay your fare to the conductor. These buses tend to take slow, nontoll roads in and out of big cities and will
stop anywhere to pick up passengers: if you
board midroute you might make some of the
trip standing. The small amount of money

HOW MANY STOPS?


Its useful to understand the difference between the types of bus service on offer:
Sin escalas Nonstop.
Directo Very few stops.
Semi-directo A few more stops than directo.
Ordinario Stops wherever passengers want to get on or off the bus; deluxe and 1st-class buses are never ordinario.
Express Nonstop on short to medium-length trips; very few stops on long trips.
Local Bus that starts its journey at the bus station youre in and usually leaves on time; local service is preferable to

de paso.
De paso Bus that started its journey somewhere else but is stopping to let off and take on passengers. If the bus

company does not have a computer booking system, you may have to wait until the bus arrives before any tickets are
sold. If the bus is full, you have to wait for the next one.
Viaje redondo Round-trip.

mexico-11-transportation.indd 991

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992 G E T T I N G A R O U N D B u s

lonelyplanet.com

TRANSPORTATION

MEXICAN BUS COMPANIES

Company

Telephone

ABC
ADO

x664-621-24-24 www.abc.com.mx
x800-702-80-00 www.ado.com.mx

ADO GL

x800-702-80-00 www.adogl.com.mx

AU

x800-702-80-00 www.ado.com.mx

Autotransportes guila
Autovas
Blancos
Chihuahuenses

x612-122-78/98
x55-5567-4550
x800-507-55-00
x800-507-55-00

Elite

x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx

Estrella Blanca
Estrella de Oro

x800-507-55-00
x55-5549-8520
(Mexico City), 800900-01-05 (other
cities)
x800-712-22-84
x800-800-03-86

Estrella Roja
ETN
Flecha Amarilla
Futura
Gacela

Website

Main regions/destinations

www.abc.com.mx
N/A
www.estrellablanca.com.mx
www.estrellablanca.com.mx

www.estrellablanca.com.mx
www.autobus.com.mx/edo

Baja California
Mexico City, Puebla, Gulf coast, Oaxaca,
Tabasco, Chiapas, Yucatn Peninsula
Mexico City, Puebla, Gulf coast,
Tabasco, Oaxaca, Yucatn Peninsula
Mexico City, Puebla, Gulf coast,
Tabasco, Oaxaca, Puebla
Southern Baja California
Mexico City, Michoacn, Zihuatanejo
Mexico City, Gulf coast
Mexico City, central Mexico, Pacific
coast, central north, northwest
Mexico City, central Mexico, Pacific
coast, central north, northwest
Mexico City, Gulf coast, Pacific coast
Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Taxco, Pacific
coast (Guerrero state)

www.estrellaroja.com.mx
www.etn.com.mx

Mexico City, Puebla


Mexico City, northern & western central
highlands, Pacific coast, northeast
Mexico City, northern & western central
x800-849-90-04 N/A
highlands, Manzanillo
x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx Mexico City, central Mexico, Pacific
coast, northern Mexico
x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Pacific coast

you save by traveling 2nd-class is not usually worth the discomfort or extra journey
time entailed.
Second-class buses can also be less safe
than 1st-class or deluxe buses, for reasons
of maintenance or driver standards or because they are more vulnerable to being
boarded by bandits on some roads. Out
in the remoter areas, however, youll often
find that 2nd-class buses are the only
buses available.
Microbuses or micros are small, usually
fairly new, 2nd-class buses with around 25
seats, usually running short routes between
nearby towns.

Costs
First-class buses typically cost around M$50
to M$70 per hour of travel (70km to 80km).
Deluxe buses may cost just 10% or 20%
more than 1st class, or about 60% more for
super-deluxe services such as ETN, UNO
and Turistar Ejecutivo. Second-class buses
cost 10% or 20% less than 1st class.

mexico-11-transportation.indd 992

Reservations
For trips of up to four or five hours on busy
routes, you can usually just go to the bus
terminal, buy a ticket and head out without
much delay. For longer trips, or routes with
infrequent service, buy a ticket a day or more
in advance. Deluxe and 1st-class bus companies have computerized ticket systems that
allow you to select your seat when you buy
your ticket. Try to avoid the back of the bus,
which is where the toilets are and also tends
to give a bumpier ride.
Ticketbus (in Mexico City x55-5133-2424, 800-70280-00; www.ticketbus.com.mx) provides tickets and
reservations for many bus companies, chiefly
on routes in the center, south and southeast
of Mexico. You can book via the internet or
telephone, or at any of its many offices in 44
cities and towns.
If you pay for a bus ticket in cash, cash
refunds of 80% to 100% are available from
many bus companies if you return your ticket
more than an hour or two before the listed
departure time.

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G E T T I N G A R O U N D C a r & M o t o r c y c l e 993

MEXICAN BUS COMPANIES (CONTINUED)

Telephone

Website

Main regions/destinations

Herradura de Plata

x55-5567-4550

N/A

OCC

x800-702-80-00 www.ado.com.mx

mnibus de Mxico

x800-765-66-36 www.odm.com.mx

Oriente
Primera Plus

x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx
x800-849-90-04 N/A

Pullman de Morelos
TAP

x800-624-03-60 www.pullman.com.mx
x668-812-57-49 N/A

Transportes del Norte


Transportes
del Pacfico
Transportes Frontera
Transportes Norte
de Sonora
Turistar

x800-890-90-90 www.gruposenda.com
x55-5587-5310 N/A

UNO

x800-702-80-00 www.uno.com.mx

Mexico City, northern & western central


highlands
Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Chiapas
(mnibus Cristbal Coln)
Mexico City, northern central highlands,
central north, northeast, Colima,
Guadalajara,Tepic
Mexico City, central Mexico, northeast
Mexico City, northern & western central
highlands, Pacific coast
Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Cuautla
Mexico City, Guadalajara, Puerto
Vallarta, northwest
Mexico City, northeast, San Luis Potos
Mexico City, Guadalajara, Pacific coast,
northwest
Mexico City, central Mexico, northeast
Mexico City, Guadalajara, Pacific coast,
northwest
Mexico City, central Mexico, north,
Pacific coast
Mexico City, Puebla, Gulf coast, Oaxaca,
Chiapas, Tabasco, Yucatn Peninsula

x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx
x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx
x800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx

TRANSPORTATION

Company

Note: many bus lines are part of multiline groups, which may share ticket desks at bus stations. ADO, ADO GL, AU,
OCC and UNO are all part of the ADO group. Blancos, Elite, Estrella Blanca, Futura, Gacela, Oriente, Chihuahuenses,
Transportes Frontera, Transportes Norte de Sonora and Turistar are all part of Grupo Estrella Blanca.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE


Driving in Mexico is not as easy as it is north
of the border, and rentals are more expensive,
but having a vehicle gives you maximum flexibility and freedom.

Bring Your Own Vehicle


Bringing a car to Mexico is most useful for
travelers who:
have plenty of time
like to get off the beaten track
have surfboards, diving equipment or
other cumbersome luggage
will be traveling with at least one companion.
Drivers should know at least a little Spanish
and have basic mechanical knowledge, reserves of patience and access to extra cash
for emergencies. Good makes of car to take
to Mexico are Volkswagen, Nissan, Chrysler,
General Motors and Ford, which have plants
in Mexico and dealers in most big towns. Very
big cars are unwieldy on narrow roads and

mexico-11-transportation.indd 993

use a lot of gasoline. A sedan with a trunk


(boot) provides safer storage than a station
wagon or hatchback. Mexican mechanics are
resourceful, and most repairs can be done
quickly and inexpensively, but it still pays
to take as many spare parts as you can manage (spare fuel filters are very useful). Tires
(including spare), shock absorbers and suspension should be in good condition. For
security, have something to immobilize the
steering wheel, and consider getting a kill
switch installed.
Motorcycling in Mexico is not for the
fainthearted. Roads and traffic can be rough,
and parts and mechanics hard to come by.
The parts youll most easily find will be for
Kawasaki, Honda and Suzuki bikes.
See p986 for information on the paperwork
required for bringing a vehicle into Mexico.

Drivers License
To drive a motor vehicle in Mexico, you
need a valid drivers license from your
home country.

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994 G E T T I N G A R O U N D C a r & M o t o r c y c l e

TRANSPORTATION

Gas (Petrol)
All gasolina (gasoline) and diesel fuel in
Mexico is sold by the governments monopoly, Pemex (Petrleos Mexicanos). Most
towns, even small ones, have a Pemex station,
and the stations are pretty common on most
major roads. Nevertheless, in remote areas
you should fill up whenever you can.
The gasoline on sale is all sin plomo (unleaded). There are two varieties: Magna Sin,
roughly equivalent to US regular unleaded,
and Premium, roughly equivalent to US super
unleaded. At the time of research, Magna Sin
cost about M$7 per liter (US$2.40 per US
gallon), and Premium about M$8.75. Diesel
fuel is widely available at around M$6 per liter.
Regular Mexican diesel has a higher sulfur
content than US diesel, but there is a Diesel
Sin with less sulfur. If diesel drivers change
their oil and filter about every 3500km, they
should have no problems.
Gas stations have pump attendants (who
appreciate a tip of M$2 to M$5).

Insurance
It is very foolish to drive in Mexico without Mexican liability insurance. If you are
involved in an accident, you can be jailed
and have your vehicle impounded while responsibility is assessed. If you are to blame
for an accident causing injury or death, you
may be detained until you guarantee restitution to the victims and payment of any fines.
This could take weeks or months. Adequate
Mexican insurance coverage is the only real
THE GREEN ANGELS
The Mexican tourism ministry, Sectur, maintains a network of ngeles Verdes (Green
Angels) bilingual mechanics in green
uniforms and green trucks, who patrol
60,000km of major highways throughout
the country daily during daylight hours
looking for tourists in trouble. They make
minor repairs, change tires, provide fuel
and oil, and arrange towing and other
assistance if necessary. Service is free;
parts, gasoline and oil are provided at
cost. If you are near a telephone when
your car has problems, you can call the
24-hour hotline (x 078). Theres a map
of the roads they patrol at www.sectur.gob
.mx/wb2/sectur/sect_9454_rutas_carreteras.

mexico-11-transportation.indd 994

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protection: it is regarded as a guarantee that


restitution will be paid, and will expedite release of the driver.
Mexican law recognizes only Mexican
motor insurance (seguro), so a US or Canadian
policy, even if it provides coverage, is not acceptable to Mexican officialdom. Sanborns
and the American Automobile Association (AAA;
www.aaa.com) are worth looking into for Mexico
motor insurance. Mexican insurance is also
sold in US border towns; as you approach the
border from the US you will see billboards
advertising offices selling Mexican policies.
At the busier border crossings, such as those
to Tijuana, Mexicali, Nogales, Agua Prieta,
Ciudad Jurez, Nuevo Laredo, Reynosa
and Matamoros, there are insurance offices
open 24 hours a day. Some deals are better
than others.
Short-term insurance is about US$15 a
day for full coverage on a car worth under
US$10,000; for periods longer than two weeks
its often cheaper to get an annual policy.
Liability-only insurance costs around half
the full coverage cost.
Insurance is considered invalid if the driver
is under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

Maps
Mexican signposting can be poor, and decent road maps are essential. A Mexican road
atlas such as Gua Rojis Por Las Carreteras de
Mxico (M$175) is a worthwhile investment.
Its sold at bookstores and some newsstands
in Mexico, and is available from internet
booksellers for a little more. A new edition
is published annually and includes most new
highways. Also useful are Quimera publishers
regional road maps.

Rental
Auto rental in Mexico is expensive by US
or European standards, but is not hard to
organize. You can book by internet, telephone
or in person and pick up cars at city offices,
airports, many big hotels and sometimes at
bus terminals.
Renters must provide a valid drivers license (your home license is OK), passport
and major credit card, and are usually required to be at least 21 (sometimes 25, or if
youre aged 21 to 24 you may have to pay a
surcharge). Read the small print of the rental
agreement. In addition to the basic rental rate,
you pay tax and insurance costs to the rental

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traffic is not heavy. Mexicans on the whole


drive as cautiously and sensibly as people
anywhere. Traffic density, poor surfaces and
frequent hazards (potholes, speed bumps,
animals, bicycles, children) all help to keep
speeds down.
Driving on a dark night is best avoided
since unlit vehicles, rocks, pedestrians and
animals on the roads are common. Hijacks
and robberies do occur.
In towns and cities and on rural roads,
be especially wary of Alto (Stop) signs, topes
(speed bumps) and holes in the road. They
are often not where youd expect, and missing
one can cost you in traffic fines or car damage.
Speed bumps are also used to slow traffic on
highways that pass through built-up areas.
Tope or Vibradores signs give you a warning
about most speed bumps: the deadly ones are
the ones with no warning signs and if you
hit them at any speed, you and your car will
get quite a shock.
There is always the chance that you will
be pulled over by Mexican traffic police for
an imaginary infraction. If this happens, stay
calm and polite and dont be in a hurry. You
dont have to pay a bribe, and acting dumb
and not understanding Spanish may eventually make the cop give up. You can also
ask to see documentation about the law you
have supposedly broken, ask for the officers
identification, ask to speak to a superior, and/
or note the officers name, badge number,
vehicle number and department (federal,
state or municipal). Pay any traffic fines at
a police station and get a receipt, then if you
wish to make a complaint head for a state
tourist office.

TRANSPORTATION

company. Note: comprehensive insurance


can almost double the basic cost quoted in
some internet bookings: youll usually have
the option of taking liability-only insurance
at a lower rate. Ask exactly what the insurance options cover: theft and damage insurance may only cover a percentage of costs, or
the insurance might not be valid for travel on
rough country tracks. Its best to have plenty
of liability coverage: Mexican law permits
the jailing of drivers after an accident until
they have met their obligations to third parties. The complimentary car-rental insurance
offered with some US credit cards does not
usually cover Mexico.
Most agencies offer a choice between a
per-kilometer deal or unlimited kilometers.
Local firms may or may not be cheaper than
the big international ones. In most places
the cheapest car available costs M$500 to
M$600 a day including unlimited kilometers,
insurance and tax. If you rent by the week
or month, the per-day cost can come down
by 20% to 40%. You can also cut costs by
avoiding airport pickups and drop-offs, for
which 10% can be added to your total check.
The extra charge for drop-off in another
city, when available, is usually about M$4
per kilometer.
Heres contact information (with Mexican
phone numbers) for some major firms:
Alamo (x800-849-80-01; www.alamo.com)
Avis (x800-288-88-88; www.avis.com.mx)
Budget (x800-700-17-00; www.budget.com.mx)
Dollar (x998-886-02-22; www.dollar.com)
Europcar (x800-201-20-84; www.europcar.com.mx)
Hertz (x800-709-50-00; www.hertz.com)
National (x800-716-66-25; www.nationalcar.com.mx)
Thrifty (x55-5207-1100; www.thrifty.com.mx)

G E T T I N G A R O U N D C a r & M o t o r c y c l e 995

CITY PARKING

Motorbikes or scooters are available to


rent in a few tourist centers. Youre usually required to have a drivers license and
credit card. Its advisable to look particularly carefully into insurance arrangements
here: some renters do not offer any insurance at all. Note that a locally acquired
motorcycle license is not valid under some
travel-insurance policies.

Road Conditions
Many Mexican highways, even some toll
highways, are not up to the standards of US,
Canadian or European ones. Still, the main
roads are serviceable and fairly fast when

mexico-11-transportation.indd 995

Its not usually a good idea to park on the


street overnight. If your hotel doesnt have
parking, its best to find a commercial estacionamiento (parking lot). These usually cost
around M$50 overnight and M$10 to M$15
per hour during the day.
MOTORCYCLE HAZARDS

Certain aspects of Mexican roads make them


particularly hazardous for motorcyclists:
poor signage of road and lane closures
lots of dogs on the roads
debris and deep potholes
vehicles without taillights
lack of highway lighting

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996 G E T T I N G A R O U N D C o l e c t i v o s & O t h e r Ve h i c l e s

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TRANSPORTATION

HELPFUL (?) SIGNALS


Mexican drivers have a couple of signaling conventions that drivers from other countries may
not immediately understand and need to be treated with caution in any case.
Drivers often warn each other of hazards on the road ahead a police checkpoint, a tailback,
a rock or cow in the road by a flash of the headlights or hazard-warning lights. Of course you
may get round the next few bends and find theres nothing to worry about. Maybe the other
driver touched their switch by mistake.
Slow-moving vehicles often flash their left indicators to indicate that the road ahead is clear
for a following vehicle to overtake. You should never take their word for it, of course and
remember that they might also be flashing left because they are about to turn left!

TOLL ROADS

Mexico has more than 6000km of autopistas


(toll roads), usually four-lane. They are generally in much better condition and a lot quicker
than the alternative free roads. Cuotas (tolls)
average about M$1 per km. Toll information
is available at www.sct.gob.mx: click on Traza
Tu Ruta.

Road Rules
Drive on the right-hand side of the road.
Speed limits range between 80km and
120km per hour on open highways (less
when highways pass through built-up areas),
and between 30km and 50km per hour in
towns and cities. Seat belts are obligatory for
all occupants of a car, and children under
five must be strapped into safety seats in the
rear. Obeying speed limits, traffic rules and
traffic signs will avoid giving police excuses
to demand fines payable on the spot.
One-way streets are the rule in cities.
Priority at some street intersections is indicated by thin black and red rectangles
containing white arrows. A black rectangle
facing you means you have priority; a red
one means you dont. The white arrows indicate the direction of traffic on the cross
street; if the arrow points both ways, its a
two-way street.
Antipollution rules in Mexico City ban
most vehicles from the citys roads on one
day each week (see p200).

COLECTIVOS & OTHER VEHICLES


In some areas a variety of small vehicles provide alternatives to buses. Colectivo (collective) taxis, Volkswagen minibuses (combis)
and more comfortable passenger-carrying
vans, such as Chevrolet Suburbans, operate
shuttle services between some towns, usually leaving whenever they have a full load

mexico-11-transportation.indd 996

of passengers. Fares are typically a little less


than 1st-class buses. Microbuses or micros are small, usually fairly new, 2nd-class
buses with around 25 seats, usually running
short routes between nearby towns. More
primitive are passenger-carrying camionetas
(pickups) and camiones (trucks) with fares
similar to 2nd-class bus fares. Standing in
the back of a lurching truck with a couple of
dozen campesinos (land workers) and their
machetes and animals is always an experience
to remember!

HITCHHIKING
Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and is not recommended.
Travelers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to
hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and
let someone know where they are planning to
go. A woman traveling alone certainly should
not hitchhike in Mexico, and even two women
alone is not advisable.
However, hitching is not an uncommon
way of getting to some off-the-beaten-track
places poorly served by bus. Always be alert
to possible dangers wherever you are. If the
driver is another tourist or a private motorist,
you may get the ride for free. If it is a work or
commercial vehicle, you should offer to pay,
something equivalent to the bus fare.

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION
Bicycle

Most Mexican towns and cities are flat


enough to make cycling an option. Seek
out the less traffic-infested routes and you
should enjoy it. Even Mexico City has its
biking enthusiasts. You can rent bikes in
several towns and cities for M$100 to M$150
per day.

11/12/2008 5:45:45 PM

810

San Luis Potos

1126

1000

Zacatecas

760

Veracruz

Villahermosa

967

Tuxtla Gutirrez

3237

481

Puebla

Tijuana

828

Oaxaca

1109

2625

Nogales

Tapachula

697

Morelia

1328

Monterrey

1690

Mrida

395

1431

Mazatln

Mexico City

1370

Acapulco

2254

881

1373

1146

4497

1376

2064

1526

1490

3885

1951

2363

1649

317

2891

2336

1258

2631

2265

2878

1312

3020

1448

1986

2333

620

1705

1202

1863

3195

1347

1530

769

Ciudad Jurez

Matamoros

Cancn

1570

277

320

1310

944

1557

2306

1699

340

665

1012

1694

302

789

542

1874

500

1117

1417

Guadalajara

3608

312

1133

767

1380

2583

1522

215

488

835

1971

180

729

365

1697

777

774

1694

Guanajuato

2348

1576

2727

2361

2974

889

3116

1766

2082

2429

277

1719

1520

1959

3291

917

1848

Hermosillo

Hermosillo

1250

797

1455

963

1634

2737

1776

559

1077

1358

2125

954

328

975

2019

Matamoros

1578

619

1810

1444

2054

1806

2199

809

1165

1512

1194

802

928

1042

2374

Mazatln

2014

1937

564

1056

829

4180

1062

1747

1209

1173

3568

1634

2046

1332

Mrida

2191

605

768

402

1015

2848

1157

415

123

470

2236

302

933

Mexico City

760

913

469

1482

990

1661

2409

1802

514

1056

1403

1797

Monterrey

Guanajuato

447

1070

704

1317

2608

1459

395

425

772

1996

Morelia

3512

1853

3004

2638

3251

820

3393

2043

2359

2706

Nogales

889

1075

609

395

545

3318

687

885

347

Oaxaca

2258

538

728

645

279

892

2971

1034

Puebla

Guadalajara

4005
412
813
636
1762

2615
1430
817
1183
190

1572

San Luis Potos

2007

Tapachula

Ciudad Jurez

2425

3616

3250

3863

Tijuana

Cancn

492
1007

284
1620

671

Tuxtla Gutirrez

ROAD DISTANCES (km)

Veracruz

TRANSPORTATION

mexico-11-transportation.indd 997
1373

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TRANSPORTATION

998 G E T T I N G A R O U N D T r a i n

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Boat

Taxi

Here and there you may find yourself traveling


by boat to an outlying beach, along a river or
across a lake or lagoon. The craft are usually
fast outboard lanchas (launches). Fares vary
widely: an average is around M$10 a minute if
you have to charter the whole boat (haggle!),
or around M$10 for five to 10 minutes if its
a public service.

Taxis are common in towns and cities, and


surprisingly economical. City rides cost
around M$10 per kilometer, and in some
cities theres a fixed rate for journeys within
defined central areas. (See p141 for a warning
on taxi crime in Mexico City.) If a taxi has a
meter, you can ask the driver if its working
(Funciona el taxmetro?). If its not, or if the
taxi doesnt have a meter, establish the price
of the ride before getting in (this may involve
a bit of haggling).
Some airports and big bus terminals have
a system of authorized ticket-taxis: you buy
a fixed-price ticket to your destination from
a special taquilla (ticket window) and then
hand it to the driver instead of paying cash.
This saves haggling and major rip-offs, but
fares are usually higher than you could get
on the street.
In some (usually rural) areas, some taxis operate on a colectivo basis, following set routes,
often from one town or village to another, and
picking up or dropping off passengers anywhere along that route. Fares per person are
around one-quarter of the normal cab fare.
Renting a taxi for a days out-of-town outing generally costs something similar to a
cheap rental car around M$500 or M$600.

Bus
Generally known as camiones, local buses are
often the cheapest way to get around cities and
out to nearby towns and villages. They run
frequently and are cheap. Fares in cities are
rarely more than M$5. In many cities, fleets
of small, modern microbuses have replaced the
noisy, dirty and crowded older buses.
Buses usually halt only at fixed paradas
(bus stops), though in some places you
can hold your hand out to stop one at any
street corner.

Colectivo, Combi, Minibus & Pesero


These are all names for vehicles that function as something between a taxi and a bus,
running along fixed urban routes usually
displayed on the windshield. Theyre cheaper
than taxis and quicker than buses. They will
pick you up or drop you off on any corner
along their route: to stop one, go to the curb
and wave your hand. Tell the driver where
you want to go. Usually, you pay at the end
of the trip and the fare (a little higher than a
bus fare) depends on how far you go. In some
northern border towns, pesero is used to
mean a city bus.

Metro
Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey
all have metro (subway, underground railway) systems. Mexico Citys, in particular,
is a quick, cheap and useful way of getting
around. With 175 stations and used by over
four million people every weekday, its the
worlds third-busiest subway.

mexico-11-transportation.indd 998

TRAIN
The spectacular Ferrocarril Chihuahua al
Pacfico that runs between Los Mochis and
Chihuahua (p341), known in English as the
Copper Canyon Railway, is one of the highlights of traveling in Mexico. But the remainder of Mexicos regular passenger train system
effectively ceased to exist after the railroads
were privatized in the 1990s. The very few
services remaining operate on routes that are
of no interest to travelers or are special tourist
excursion services. Most prominent among
the latter group is the Tequila Express (www.tequila
express.com.mx) running between Guadalajara
and the tequila-distilling town of Amatitn
(see p543).

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999

Health

Dr David Goldberg

CONTENTS
Before You Go
Insurance
Recommended Vaccinations
Medical Checklist
Internet Resources
Further Reading
In Transit
Deep Vein Thrombosis (Dvt)
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness
In Mexico
Availability & Cost of Health Care
Infectious Diseases
Travelers Diarrhea
Environmental Hazards & Treatment
Children & Pregnant Women

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1000
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1001
1001
1001
1004
1004
1006

BEFORE YOU GO
Bring medications in their original containers,
clearly labeled. A signed, dated letter from
your physician describing all medical conditions and medications, including generic
names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes
or needles, be sure to have a physicians letter
documenting their medical necessity.

INSURANCE
Mexican medical treatment is generally inexpensive for common diseases and minor
treatment, but if you suffer some serious
medical problem, you may want to find a private hospital or fly out for treatment. Travel
insurance can typically cover the costs. Some
US health-insurance policies stay in effect (at
least for a limited time) if you travel abroad,
but its worth checking exactly what youll
be covered for in Mexico. For people whose

mexico-11-health.indd 999

RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
Since most vaccines dont produce immunity
until at least two weeks after theyre given, be
sure to visit a physician four to eight weeks
before departure. Ask your doctor for an international certificate of vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow booklet), which will
list all the vaccinations youve received. This is
mandatory for countries that require proof of
yellow fever vaccination upon entry, but its a
good idea to carry it wherever you travel.
A number of vaccines are recommended;
see the table on the next page.

HEALTH

Travelers to Mexico need to be concerned


chiefly about food-borne diseases, though
mosquito-borne infections can also be a problem. Most of these illnesses are not life threatening, but they can ruin your trip. Besides getting
the proper vaccinations, its important that you
bring along a good insect repellent and exercise
great care in what you eat and drink.

medical insurance or national health systems


dont extend to Mexico which includes most
non-Americans a travel policy is advisable.
US travelers can find links to information
on medical evacuation and travel insurance
companies on the Mexico page of the Bureau of
Consular Affairs website (www.travel.state.gov).
You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or
hospitals directly, rather than requiring you to
pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to
claim later, keep all documentation. Some policies ask you to call collect to a center in your
home country, where an assessment of your
problem is made. Check that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home.
Some policies offer different medical-expense
options; the higher ones are chiefly for countries such as the USA, which have extremely
high medical costs. There is a wide variety of
policies available, so check the small print.

MEDICAL CHECKLIST

acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol)
or aspirin
adhesive or paper tape
antibacterial ointment (eg Bactroban) for
cuts and abrasions
antibiotics
antidiarrheal drugs (eg loperamide)
anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen)
antihistamines (for hay fever and allergic
reactions)
steroid cream or cortisone (for poison
ivy and other allergic rashes)
bandages, gauze, gauze rolls
scissors, safety pins, tweezers

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1000 I N T R A N S I T D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T )

Vaccine

Recommended for

Dosage

Side effects

hepatitis A

all travelers

typhoid

all travelers

soreness at injection site;


headaches; body aches
abdominal pain; nausea; rash

hepatitis B

long-term travelers in
close contact with the local
population
travelers who may have
contact with animals and
may not have access to
medical care
all travelers who havent
had booster within 10 years
travelers born after 1956
whove had only 1 measles
vaccination
travelers whove never had
chickenpox

1 dose before trip; booster


6-12 months later
4 capsules by mouth, 1 taken
every other day
3 doses over 6-month period

rabies

tetanusdiphtheria
measles

HEALTH

chickenpox

lonelyplanet.com

soreness at injection site;


low-grade fever

3 doses over 3-4 week period

soreness at injection site;


headaches; body aches

1 dose lasts 10 years

soreness at injection site

1 dose

fever; rash; joint pains; allergic


reactions

2 doses, 1 month apart

fever; mild case of chickenpox

thermometer
pocket knife
DEET-containing insect repellent
permethrin-containing insect spray for
clothing, tents and bed nets
sunblock
oral rehydration salts
iodine tablets (for water purification)
syringes and sterile needles

IN TRANSIT
DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT)

There is a wealth of travel health advice on the


internet. MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com)
provides complete travel health recommendations for every country and is updated daily.
The World Health Organization publishes
a superb book, International Travel and Health
(www.who.int/ith/), which is revised annually and
is available free online.
Its also a good idea to consult government
travel health websites before departure:
Australia www.dfat.gov.au/travel/
Canada http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca
UK www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/
United States www.cdc.gov/travel/

Blood clots may form in the legs (deep vein


thrombosis) during plane flights, chiefly because of prolonged immobility. The longer
the flight, the greater the risk. Though most
blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some
may break off and travel through the blood
vessels to the lungs, where they could cause
life-threatening complications.
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but not
always on just one side. When a blood clot
travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain
and breathing difficulties. Travelers with any
of these symptoms should immediately seek
medical attention.
To prevent the development of DVT on
long flights you should walk about the cabin,
perform isometric compressions of the leg
muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sitting), drink plenty of fluids, and avoid alcohol
and tobacco.

FURTHER READING

JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS

INTERNET RESOURCES

For further information, see Healthy Travel


Central & South America, also from Lonely
Planet. If youre traveling with children, Lonely
Planets Travel with Children may be useful.
The ABC of Healthy Travel, by E Walker et
al, and Medicine for the Outdoors, by Paul S
Auerbach, are other valuable resources.

mexico-11-health.indd 1000

Jet lag is common when crossing more than


five time zones, resulting in insomnia, fatigue,
malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag, try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) and eating light meals. Upon arrival, get exposure to
natural sunlight and readjust your schedule
(for meals, sleep etc) as soon as possible.

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Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate


(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert,
Bonine) are usually the first choice for treating motion sickness. Their main side effect is
drowsiness. An herbal alternative is ginger,
which works like a charm for some people.

IN MEXICO
AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH
CARE
There are a number of first-rate hospitals in
Mexico City (p131). In general, private facilities offer better care, though at greater cost,
than public hospitals.
Adequate medical care is available in other
major cities, but facilities in rural areas may be
limited. In many areas, the US consulate provides an online directory to local physicians
and hospitals, such as the following:
Ciudad Juarez http://ciudadjuarez.usconsulate.gov/phy
sicians-and-dentists.html

Guadalajara www.usembassy-mexico.gov/guadalajara

Many doctors and hospitals expect payment


in cash, regardless of whether you have travel
health insurance. If you develop a medical
problem thats life threatening, youll probably
want to be evacuated to a country with stateof-the-art medical care. Since this may cost
tens of thousands of dollars, be sure you have
insurance to cover this before you depart.
Pharmacies are identified by a green cross
and a Farmacia sign. Most are well supplied
and the pharmacists well trained. Reliable
pharmacy chains include Sanborns, Farmacia
Guadalajara, Benavides and Farmacia Fenix.
Some medications requiring a prescription in
the US may be dispensed in Mexico without
one. To find an after-hours pharmacy, you can
look in the local newspaper, ask your hotel
concierge, or check the front door of a local
pharmacy, which will often post the name of a
nearby pharmacy that is open for the night.

INFECTIOUS DISEASES
Malaria

Malaria occurs in every country in Central


America, including parts of Mexico. Its transmitted by mosquito bites, usually between

mexico-11-health.indd 1001

HEALTH

/GeDoctors.htm
Merida http://merida.usconsulate.gov/merida/doctorlist
.html
Nogales http://nogales.usconsulate.gov/doctors.html

dusk and dawn. The main symptom is high


spiking fevers, which may be accompanied
by chills, sweats, headache, body aches, weakness, vomiting or diarrhea. Severe cases may
involve the central nervous system and lead to
seizures, confusion, coma and death.
Taking malaria pills is strongly recommended when visiting rural areas in the states
of Oaxaca, Chiapas, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Tabasco
and Quintana Roo, and for an area between
24 and 28 north latitude and 106 and 110
west longitude, which includes parts of the
states of Sonora, Chihuahua and Durango.
For Mexico, the first-choice malaria pill is
chloroquine, taken once weekly in a dosage
of 500mg, starting one to two weeks before
arrival and continuing through the trip and
for four weeks after departure. Chloroquine
is safe, inexpensive and highly effective. Side
effects are typically mild and may include
nausea, abdominal discomfort, headache,
dizziness, blurred vision or itching. Severe
reactions are uncommon.
Protecting yourself against mosquito bites
is just as important as taking malaria pills,
since no pills are 100% effective.
If its possible that you may not have access
to medical care while traveling, bring along
additional pills for emergency self-treatment,
which you should take if you cant reach a
doctor and develop symptoms that suggest
malaria, such as high spiking fevers. One
option is to take four tablets of Malarone
once daily for three days. If you start selfmedication, you should try to see a doctor at
the earliest possible opportunity.
If you develop a fever after returning home,
see a physician, as malaria symptoms may not
occur for months.
Malaria pills are not recommended for
the major resorts along the Pacific and
Gulf Coasts.

Dengue Fever
Dengue fever is a viral infection found in most
parts of Mexico. An outbreak in 2007 resulted
in at least 67,000 cases. Dengue is transmitted by aedes mosquitoes, which usually bite
during the day and are usually found close
to human habitations, often indoors. They
breed primarily in artificial water containers, such as jars, barrels, cans, cisterns, metal
drums, plastic containers and discarded tires.
As a result, dengue is especially common in
densely populated, urban environments.

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Dengue usually causes flu-like symptoms


including fever, muscle aches, joint pains,
headaches, nausea and vomiting, often followed by a rash. The body aches may be quite
uncomfortable, but most cases resolve uneventfully in a few days. Severe cases usually
occur in children under age 15 who are experiencing their second dengue infection.
Theres no treatment for dengue fever except
to take analgesics such as acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) and drink plenty of fluids.
Severe cases may require hospitalization for
intravenous fluids and supportive care. There
is no vaccine. The cornerstone of prevention is
insect protection measures (see p1005).

HEALTH

Hepatitis A
Hepatitis A occurs throughout Central
America. Its a viral liver infection usually
acquired by ingestion of contaminated water,
food or ice, though it may also be acquired
by direct contact with infected persons. The
illness occurs worldwide, but the incidence is
higher in developing nations. Symptoms may
include fever, malaise, jaundice, nausea, vomiting and abdominal pain. Most cases resolve
uneventfully, though it occasionally causes
severe liver damage. There is no treatment.
The vaccine for hepatitis A is extremely
safe and highly effective. If you get a booster
six to 12 months later, it lasts for at least 10
years. You really should get it before you go
to Mexico or any other developing nation.
Because the safety of hepatitis A vaccine has
not been established for pregnant women or
children under age two, they should instead
be given a gamma-globulin injection.

Hepatitis B
Like hepatitis A, hepatitis B is a liver infection
that occurs worldwide but is more common
in developing nations. Unlike hepatitis A, the
disease is usually acquired by sexual contact
or by exposure to infected blood, generally
through blood transfusions or contaminated
needles. The vaccine is recommended only
for long-term travelers (on the road more
than six months) who expect to live in rural
areas or have close physical contact with the
local population. Additionally, the vaccine
is recommended for anyone who anticipates
sexual contact with the local inhabitants or
a possible need for medical, dental or other
treatments while abroad, especially if a need
for transfusions or injections is expected.

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Hepatitis B vaccine is safe and highly effective. However, a total of three injections
is necessary to establish full immunity.
Several countries added hepatitis B vaccine
to the list of routine childhood immunizations in the 1980s, so many young adults are
already protected.

Typhoid Fever
Typhoid fever is common throughout Central
America. The infection is acquired by ingestion
of food or water contaminated by a species of
Salmonella known as Salmonella typhi. Fever
occurs in virtually all cases. Other symptoms
may include headache, malaise, muscle aches,
dizziness, loss of appetite, nausea and abdominal pain. Either diarrhea or constipation may
occur. Possible complications include intestinal perforation, intestinal bleeding, confusion,
delirium or (rarely) coma.
Unless you expect to take all your meals in
major hotels and restaurants, a typhoid vaccine is a good idea. Its usually given orally,
but is also available as an injection. Neither
vaccine is approved for use in children under
age two.
The drug of choice for typhoid fever is
usually a quinolone antibiotic such as ciprofloxacin (Cipro) or levofloxacin (Levaquin),
which many travelers carry for treatment of
travelers diarrhea. However, if you self-treat
for typhoid fever, you may also need to selftreat for malaria, since the symptoms of the
two diseases can be indistinguishable.

Rabies
Rabies is a viral infection of the brain and
spinal cord that is almost always fatal. The
rabies virus is carried in the saliva of infected
animals and is typically transmitted through
an animal bite, though contamination of any
break in the skin with infected saliva may
result in rabies. Rabies occurs in all Central
American countries. Most cases in Mexico are
related to dog bites, but bats and other wild
species also remain sources of infection.
Rabies vaccine is safe, but a full series requires three injections and is quite expensive.
Those at high risk for rabies, such as animal
handlers and spelunkers (cave explorers),
should certainly get the vaccine. In addition,
those at lower risk for animal bites should
consider asking for the vaccine if they are
traveling to remote areas and might not have
access to appropriate medical care if needed.

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The treatment for a possibly rabid bite consists


of rabies vaccine with rabies immune globulin. Its effective, but must be given promptly.
Most travelers dont need rabies vaccine.
All animal bites and scratches must be
promptly and thoroughly cleansed with large
amounts of soap and water, and local health
authorities should be contacted to determine
whether or not further treatment is necessary
(see p1006).

Cholera

Other Infections
GNATHOSTOMIASIS

Gnathostomiasis is a parasite acquired by


eating raw or undercooked freshwater fish,
including ceviche, a popular lime-marinated
fish salad. Cases have been reported from
Acapulco and other parts of Mexico. The chief
symptom is intermittent, migratory swellings
under the skin, sometimes associated with
joint pains, muscle pains or gastrointestinal
problems. The symptoms may not begin until
many months after exposure.
LEISHMANIASIS

Leishmaniasis occurs in the mountains and


jungles of all Central American countries. The
infection is transmitted by sand flies, which
are about one-third the size of mosquitoes.
Leishmaniasis may be limited to the skin,
causing slowly-growing ulcers over exposed
parts of the body, or (less commonly) may
disseminate to the bone marrow, liver and
spleen. The disease may be particularly severe
in those with HIV. The disseminated form is
rare in Mexico and is limited chiefly to the
Balsas River basin in the southern states of
Guerrero and Puebla. There is no vaccine
for leishmaniasis. To protect yourself from
sand flies, follow the same precautions as

mexico-11-health.indd 1003

for mosquitoes (p1005), except that netting


must be finer mesh (at least 18 holes to the
linear inch).
CHAGAS DISEASE

Chagas disease is a parasitic infection transmitted by triatomine insects (reduviid bugs),


which inhabit crevices in the walls and roofs
of substandard housing in South and Central
America. In Mexico, most cases occur in
southern and coastal areas. The triatomine
insect lays its feces on human skin as it bites,
usually at night. A person becomes infected
when he or she unknowingly rubs the feces
into the bite wound or any other open sore.
Chagas disease is extremely rare in travelers.
However, if you sleep in a poorly constructed
house, especially one made of mud, adobe or
thatch, you should be sure to protect yourself
with a bed net and good insecticide.
HISTOPLASMOSIS

Histoplasmosis is caused by a soil-based fungus and is acquired by inhalation, often when


soil has been disrupted. Initial symptoms may
include fever, chills, dry cough, chest pain and
headache, sometimes leading to pneumonia.
An outbreak was recently described among
visitors to an Acapulco hotel.

HEALTH

Cholera is an intestinal infection acquired


through ingestion of contaminated food or
water. The main symptom is profuse, watery
diarrhea, which may be so severe that it causes
life-threatening dehydration. The key treatment is drinking oral rehydration solution.
Antibiotics are also given, usually tetracycline
or doxycycline, though quinolone antibiotics
such as ciprofloxacin and levofloxacin are
also effective.
Only a handful of cases have been reported
in Mexico over the last few years. Cholera
vaccine is no longer recommended.

I N M E X I C O I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 1003

COCCIDIOIDOMYCOSIS

Coccidioidomycosis, also known as valley


fever, is a fungal infection that is restricted
to semiarid areas in the American southwest,
nearby areas in northern Mexico, and limited
foci in Central and South America. Valley
fever is acquired by inhaling dust from contaminated soil. It begins as a lung infection,
causing fever, chest pain and coughing, and
may spread to other organs, particularly the
nervous system, skin and bone. Treatment requires high doses of antibiotics for prolonged
periods and is not always curative.
BRUCELLOSIS

Brucellosis is an infection occurring in domestic and wild animals that may be transmitted to humans through direct animal
contact, or by consumption of unpasteurized dairy products from infected animals.
Symptoms may include fever, malaise, depression, loss of appetite, headache, muscle
aches and back pain. Complications can
include arthritis, hepatitis, meningitis and
endocarditis (heart valve infection).

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1004 I N M E X I C O T r a v e l e r s D i a r r h e a
TICK-BORNE RELAPSING FEVER

Tick-borne relapsing fever, transmitted by


either ticks or lice, has been reported from the
plateau regions in central Mexico. Relapsing
fever is caused by bacteria that are closely
related to those that cause Lyme disease and
syphilis. The illness is characterized by periods
of fever, chills, headaches, body aches, muscle
aches and cough, alternating with periods
when the fever subsides and the person feels
relatively well. To minimize the risk of relapsing fever, follow tick precautions as outlined
below and practice good personal hygiene.

HEALTH

TULAREMIA

Tularemia, also known as rabbit fever, is a


bacterial infection that primarily affects rodents, rabbits and hares. Humans generally
become infected through tick or deerfly bites,
or by handling the carcass of an infected animal. Occasional cases are caused by inhalation
of an infectious aerosol. In Mexico, most cases
occur in the northern rural areas. Tularemia
may develop as a flu-like illness, pneumonia
or cause skin ulcers with swollen glands, depending upon how the infection is acquired.
It usually responds well to antibiotics.
ROCKY MOUNTAIN SPOTTED FEVER

Rocky Mountain spotted fever is a tickborne infection characterized by fever, headache and muscle aches, followed by a rash.
Complications may include pneumonia,
meningitis, gangrene and kidney failure, and
may be life threatening. Cases have been reported from the central part of the country,
the Yucatn Peninsula and Jalisco State.
ONCHOCERCIASIS

Onchocerciasis (river blindness) is caused


by a roundworm invading the eye, leading
to blindness. The infection is transmitted by
black flies, which breed along the banks of
rapidly flowing rivers and streams. In Mexico,
the disease is reported from highland areas in
the states of Oaxaca, Chiapas and Guerrero.
TYPHUS

Typhus may be transmitted by lice in scattered


pockets of the country.
HIV/AIDS

HIV/AIDS has been reported from all Central


American countries. Be sure to use condoms
for all sexual encounters.

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TRAVELERS DIARRHEA
To prevent diarrhea, avoid tap water unless
it has been boiled, filtered or chemically disinfected (eg with iodine tablets); only eat fresh
fruits or vegetables if cooked or peeled; be
wary of dairy products that might contain
unpasteurized milk; and be highly selective
when eating food from street vendors.
If you develop diarrhea, be sure to drink
plenty of fluids, preferably an oral rehydration
solution containing lots of salt and sugar. A few
loose stools dont require treatment, but if you
start having more than four or five stools a day
you should start taking an antibiotic (usually
a quinolone drug) and an antidiarrheal agent
(such as loperamide). If diarrhea is bloody, persists for more than 72 hours or is accompanied
by fever, shaking chills or severe abdominal
pain you should seek medical attention.

ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS &


TREATMENT
Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness may develop in travelers who


ascend rapidly to altitudes greater than 2500m.
Being physically fit does not lessen your risk
of altitude sickness. It seems to be chiefly a
matter of genetic predisposition. Those who
have experienced altitude sickness in the past
are prone to future episodes. The risk increases
with faster ascents, higher altitudes and greater
exertion. Symptoms may include headaches,
nausea, vomiting, dizziness, malaise, insomnia and loss of appetite. Severe cases may be
complicated by fluid in the lungs (high-altitude
pulmonary edema) or swelling of the brain
(high-altitude cerebral edema). Most deaths are
caused by high-altitude pulmonary edema.
The standard medication to prevent altitude sickness is a mild diuretic called acetazolamide (Diamox), which should be started
24 hours before ascent and continued for 48
hours after arrival at altitude. Possible side effects include increased urination, numbness,
tingling, nausea, drowsiness, nearsightedness
and temporary impotence. For those who
cannot tolerate acetazolamide, most physicians prescribe dexamethasone, which is a
type of steroid. A natural alternative is gingko,
which some people find quite helpful. The
usual dosage is 100mg twice daily.
To lessen the chance of altitude sickness,
you should also be sure to ascend gradually to
higher altitudes, avoid overexertion, eat light
meals and avoid alcohol.

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Symptoms of altitude sickness develop


gradually so, with proper care, serious complications can usually be prevented. If you or
a companion show any symptoms of altitude
sickness, you should not ascend to a higher altitude until the symptoms have cleared. If the
symptoms become worse or if someone shows
signs of cerebral or pulmonary edema, such
as trouble breathing or mental confusion, you
must immediately descend to a lower altitude.
A descent of 500m to 1000m is generally adequate except in cases of cerebral edema, which
may require a greater descent. Supplemental
oxygen is helpful if available. Acetazolamide
and dexamethasone may be used to treat altitude sickness as well as prevent it.
Travel to high altitudes is generally not recommended for those with a history of heart
disease, lung disease, or sickle-cell disease. It is
also not recommended for pregnant women.

Mosquito Bites

mexico-11-health.indd 1005

Tick Bites
To protect yourself from tick bites, follow the
same precautions as for mosquitoes, except
that boots are preferable to shoes, with pants
tucked in. Be sure to perform a thorough tick
check at the end of each day. Youll generally
need the assistance of a friend or mirror for a
full examination. Remove ticks with tweezers,
grasping them firmly by the head. Insect repellents based on botanical products, described
above, have not been adequately studied for
insects other than mosquitoes and cannot be
recommended to prevent tick bites.

Water
Tap water in Mexico is generally not safe to
drink. Vigorous boiling for one minute is
the most effective means of water purification. At altitudes greater than 2000m, boil
for three minutes.
Another option is to disinfect water with
iodine pills. Instructions are usually enclosed
and should be carefully followed. Or you can
add 2% tincture of iodine to one quart or liter
of water (five drops to clear water, 10 drops
to cloudy water) and let stand for 30 minutes.
If the water is cold, a longer time may be required. The taste of iodinated water can be improved by adding vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
Dont consume iodinated water for more than
a few weeks. Pregnant women, those with a
history of thyroid disease and those allergic to
iodine should not drink iodinated water.
A number of water filters are on the market.
Those with smaller pores (reverse osmosis filters) provide the broadest protection, but they
are relatively large and are easily plugged by
debris. Those with larger pores (microstrainer
filters) are ineffective against viruses, although
they remove other organisms. Manufacturers
instructions must be carefully followed.

HEALTH

To prevent mosquito bites, wear long sleeves,


long pants, hats and shoes. Bring along a good
insect repellent, preferably one containing
DEET. Apply it to exposed skin and clothing, but not to eyes, mouth, cuts, wounds
or irritated skin. Products containing lower
concentrations of DEET are as effective, but
for shorter periods of time. In general, adults
and children over 12 should use preparations
containing 25% to 35% DEET, which usually
lasts about six hours. Children between two
and 12 years of age should use preparations
containing no more than 10% DEET, applied
sparingly, which will usually last about three
hours. Neurological toxicity has been reported
from DEET, especially in children, but appears
to be extremely uncommon and generally related to overuse. Dont use DEET-containing
compounds on children under two.
Insect repellents containing certain botanical products, including oil of eucalyptus and
soybean oil, are effective but last only 1 to two
hours. Where there is a high risk of malaria or
yellow fever, use DEET-containing repellents.
Products based on citronella are not effective.
For additional protection, apply permethrin to clothing, shoes, tents and bed nets.
Permethrin treatments are safe and remain
effective for at least two weeks, even when
items are laundered. Permethrin should not
be applied directly to skin.
Dont sleep with the window open unless
there is a screen. If sleeping outdoors or in ac-

commodations that allow entry of mosquitoes,


use a bed net treated with permethrin, with
edges tucked in under the mattress. The mesh
size should be less than 1.5mm. Alternatively,
use a mosquito coil, which will fill the room
with insecticide through the night. Repellentimpregnated wristbands are not effective.

Sun
To protect from excessive sun exposure, stay
out of the midday sun, wear sunglasses and a
wide-brimmed hat, and apply sunscreen with
SPF 15 or higher, providing both UVA and

11/12/2008 5:46:54 PM

1006 I N M E X I C O C h i l d re n & P re g n a n t W o m e n

UVB protection. Sunscreen should be generously applied to all exposed parts of the body
approximately 30 minutes before sun exposure
and reapplied after swimming or vigorous activity. Drink plenty of fluids and avoid strenuous exercise in high temperatures.

Air Pollution
Air pollution may be a significant problem, especially in Mexico City and Guadalajara. It is
typically most severe from December to May.
Travelers with respiratory or cardiac conditions and those who are elderly or very young
are at greatest risk for complications from
air pollution, including coughing, difficulty
breathing, wheezing or chest pain. Minimize
the risk by staying indoors, avoiding outdoor
exercise and drinking plenty of fluids.

HEALTH

Animal Bites
Do not attempt to pet, handle or feed any animal, with the exception of domestic animals
known to be free of any infectious disease.
Most animal injuries are directly related to a
persons attempt to touch or feed the animal.
Any bite or scratch by a mammal, including bats, should be promptly and thoroughly
cleansed with large amounts of soap and water,
followed by application of an antiseptic such as
iodine or alcohol. Contact local health authorities immediately for possible postexposure
treatment, whether or not youve been immunized against rabies. It may also be worth starting an antibiotic wounds caused by animal
bites and scratches often become infected. One
of the newer quinolones, such as levofloxacin
(Levaquin), which many travelers carry in case
of diarrhea, would be appropriate.

Snake & Scorpion Bites


Venomous snakes in Central America include
the bushmaster, fer-de-lance, coral snake and
various species of rattlesnakes. The fer-delance is the most lethal. It generally does not
attack without provocation, but may bite
humans who accidentally come too close as
it lies camouflaged on the forest floor. The
bushmaster is the worlds largest pit viper,
measuring up to 4m in length. Like other pit
vipers, the bushmaster has a heat-sensing pit
between the eye and nostril on each side of its
head, which it uses to detect the presence of
warm-blooded prey.
Coral snakes are somewhat retiring and
tend not to bite humans. North of Mexico

mexico-11-health.indd 1006

lonelyplanet.com

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

Problem

Treatment

jet lag
motion sickness
mosquito bite
prevention

melatonin
ginger
oil of eucalyptus, soybean oil

City, all coral snakes have a red, yellow, black,


yellow, red banding pattern, with red and yellow touching, in contrast to nonvenomous
snakes, where the red and yellow bands are
separated by black. South of Mexico City, the
banding patterns become more complex and
this distinction is not useful.
In the event of a venomous snake bite, place
the victim at rest, keep the bitten area immobilized, and move the victim immediately
to the nearest medical facility. Avoid tourniquets, which are no longer recommended.
Scorpions are a problem in many states. If
stung, you should immediately apply ice or cold
packs, immobilize the affected body part and
go to the nearest emergency room. To prevent
scorpion stings, be sure to inspect and shake out
clothing, shoes and sleeping bags before use,
and wear gloves and protective clothing when
working around piles of wood or leaves.

CHILDREN & PREGNANT WOMEN


In general, its safe for children and pregnant
women to go to Mexico. However, as some of
the vaccines listed previously are not approved
for children or during pregnancy, these travelers should be particularly careful not to drink
tap water or consume any questionable food or
beverage. Also, when traveling with children,
make sure theyre up to date on all routine
immunizations. Its sometimes appropriate
to give children some of their vaccines a little
early before visiting a developing nation. You
should discuss this with your pediatrician. If
pregnant, bear in mind that should a complication such as premature labor develop while
abroad, the quality of medical care may not be
comparable to that in your home country.
Since yellow-fever vaccine is not recommended for pregnant women or children less
than nine months old, if you are arriving from
a country with yellow fever, obtain a waiver
letter, preferably written on letterhead stationery and bearing the stamp used by official
immunization centers to validate the international certificate of vaccination.

11/12/2008 5:46:54 PM

1007

Language
PRONUNCIATION
CONTENTS
Pronunciation
Gender & Plurals
Accommodations
Conversation & Essentials
Directions
Emergencies
Health
Language Difficulties
Numbers
Paperwork
Shopping & Services
Time & Dates
Transportation
Travel with Children

1007
1008
1008
1009
1009
1011
1011
1011
1011
1012
1012
1012
1013
1014

Vowels
a
e
i
o
u

as in father
as in met
as in marine
as in or (without the r sound)
as in rule; the u is not pronounced
after q and in the letter combinations
gue and gui, unless its marked with
a diaeresis (eg argir), in which case
its pronounced as an English w
at the end of a word or when it stands
alone, its pronounced as the Spanish
i (eg ley); between vowels within a
word its as the y in yonder

Consonants
As a rule, Spanish consonants resemble
their English counterparts. The exceptions
are listed below.
While the consonants ch, ll and are generally considered distinct letters, ch and ll
are now often listed alphabetically under c
and l respectively. The letter is still treated
as a separate letter and comes after n in
dictionaries.
b
c
ch
d
g
h

similar to an English b, but softer;


referred to as b larga
as in celery before e and i; otherwise
as an English k
as in church
as in dog, but between vowels and
after l or n, the sound is closer to the
th in this
as the ch in the Scottish loch before
e and i (kh in our guides to pronunciation); elsewhere, as in go
invariably silent. If your name begins
with this letter, make sure you listen
carefully if youre waiting for public
officials to call you.

LANGUAGE

The predominant language of Mexico is


Spanish. Mexican Spanish is unlike Castilian
Spanish (the language of much of Spain) in
two main respects: in Mexico the Castilian
lisp has more or less disappeared, and numerous indigenous words have been adopted.
About 50 indigenous languages are spoken
as a first language by more than seven million people, and about 15% of these dont
speak Spanish.
Travelers in cities, towns and larger villages can almost always find someone who
speaks at least some English. All the same,
it is advantageous and courteous to know
at least a few words and phrases in Spanish.
Mexicans will generally respond much more
positively if you attempt to speak to them
in their own language.
Its easy enough to pick up some basic
Spanish, and for those who want to learn
the language in greater depth, courses are
available in several cities in Mexico (see
p966). You can also study books, records
and tapes before you leave home. These
resources are often available free at public
libraries. Evening or college courses are also
an excellent way to get started.
For a more comprehensive guide to the
Spanish of Mexico, get a copy of Lonely
Planets Mexican Spanish Phrasebook. For
words and phrases that will come in handy
when dining, see p100.

Spanish spelling is phonetically consistent,


meaning that theres a clear and consistent
relationship between what you see in writing and how its pronounced. In addition,
most Spanish sounds have English equivalents, so English speakers shouldnt have
too much trouble being understood.

1008 L A N G UA G E G e n d e r & P l u r a l s

j
ll

r
rr
v
x

as the ch in Scottish loch (written as


kh in our guides to pronunciation)
varies between the y in yes and the
lli in million
as the ni in onion
a short r except at the beginning of a
word, and after l, n or s, when its
often rolled
very strongly rolled (not reflected in
the pronunciation guides)
similar to an English b, but softer;
referred to as b corta
usually pronounced as j above; in
some indigenous place names its
pronounced as an s; as in taxi in
other instances
as the s in sun

Where is ...?
Dnde hay ...?

donde ai ...

a cabin/cabana
una cabaa

oona cabanya

a camping ground
un rea para acampar

oon area para akampar

a guesthouse
una pensin

oona pensyon

a hotel
un hotel

oon otel

a lodging house
una casa de huspedes

oona kasa de wespedes

a posada
una posada

oona posada

a youth hostel
un albergue juvenil

oon alberge khooveneel

MAKING A RESERVATION

Word Stress

LANGUAGE

lonelyplanet.com

In general, words ending in vowels or the


letters n or s have stress on the next-to-last
syllable, while those with other endings have
stress on the last syllable. Thus vaca (cow)
and caballos (horses) both carry stress on
the next-to-last syllable, while ciudad (city)
and infeliz (unhappy) are both stressed on
the last syllable.
Written accents will almost always appear in words that dont follow the rules
above, eg stano (basement), porcin (portion), Amrica.

(for phone or written requests)


To ...
A ...
From ...
De ...
Date
Fecha
Id like to book ...
Quisiera reservar ... (see
under Accommodations
for bed and room options)
in the name of ...
en nombre de ...
for the nights of ... para las noches del ...
credit card ...
tarjeta de crdito ...
number
nmero
expiry date
fecha de vencimiento

GENDER & PLURALS

Please confirm ...


availability
price

In Spanish, nouns are either masculine or


feminine, and there are rules to help determine gender (there are of course some
exceptions). Feminine nouns generally
end with -a or with the groups -cin, -sin
or -dad. Other endings typically signify a
masculine noun. Endings for adjectives
also change to agree with the gender of the
noun they modify (masculine/feminine
-o/-a). Where both masculine and feminine forms are included in this language
guide, they are separated by a slash, with
the masculine form first, eg perdido/a.
If a noun or adjective ends in a vowel, the
plural is formed by adding s to the end. If
it ends in a consonant, the plural is formed
by adding es to the end.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Im looking for ...
Estoy buscando ...

estoy booskando ...

Puede confirmar ...


la disponibilidad
el precio

Are there any rooms available?


Hay habitaciones libres?
ay abeetasyones leebres

Id like a ...
room.
double
single
twin

Quisiera una
keesyera oona
habitacin ...
abeetasyon ...
doble
doble
individual
eendeeveedwal
con dos camas kon dos kamas

How much is it
per ...?
night
person
week

Cunto cuesta
por ...?
noche
persona
semana

kwanto kwesta
por ...
noche
persona
semana

full board

pensin
completa

pensyon
kompleta

lonelyplanet.com

private/shared
bathroom
too expensive
cheaper
discount

L A N G UA G E C o n s e r v a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s 1009

bao privado/
compartido
demasiado caro
ms econmico
descuento

banyo preevado/
komparteedo
demasyado karo
mas ekonomeeko
deskwento

no me goosta
esta byen la tomo
me voy aora

CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS

When approaching a stranger for information you should always extend a greeting,
and use only the polite form of address,
especially with the police and public officials. Young people may be less likely to
expect this, but its best to stick to the polite
form unless youre quite sure you wont
offend by using the informal mode. The
polite form is used in all cases in this guide;
where options are given, the form is indicated by the abbreviations pol and inf.
Saying por favor (please) and gracias
(thank you) are second nature to most
Mexicans and a recommended tool in your
travel kit.
Hola.
Buen da.
Buenos das.
Buenas tardes.
Buenas noches.

ola (inf)
bwen deea
bwenos deeas
bwenas tardes
bwenas noches

Adis.
adyos
Hasta luego.
asta lwego
S.
see
No.
no
Por favor.
por favor
Gracias.
grasyas
Muchas gracias. moochas grasyas
De nada.
de nada
Perdn.
perdon
Permiso.
permeeso
Disculpe.
deeskoolpe
(used before a request or when apologizing)

How are things?


Qu tal?

moocho goosto

ke tal

El gusto es mo.

el goosto es meeo

De dnde es/eres?

de donde es/eres (pol/inf)

Im from ...
Soy de ...

soy de ...

Where are you staying?


Dnde est alojado?
Dnde ests alojado?

donde esta alokhado (pol)


donde estas alokhado (inf)

May I take a photo?


Puedo sacar una foto? pwedo sakar oona foto

DIRECTIONS
How do I get to ...?
Cmo llego a ...?

komo yego a ...

Is it far?
Est lejos?

esta lekhos

Go straight ahead.
Siga/Vaya derecho.

seega/vaya derecho

Turn left.
Volte a la izquierda.

voltee a la eeskyerda

Turn right.
Volte a la derecha.

voltee a la derecha

Can you show me (on the map)?


Me lo podra sealar
(en el mapa)?

me lo podreea senyalar
(en el mapa)

SIGNS

Entrada
Salida
Informacin
Abierto
Cerrado
Prohibido
Comisaria
Servicios/Baos
Hombres/Varones
Mujeres/Damas
north
south
east
west
here
there
block

norte
sur
este
oeste
aqu
ah
cuadra

Entrance
Exit
Information
Open
Closed
Prohibited
Police Station
Toilets
Men
Women
norte
soor
este
oeste
akee
aee
kwadra

LANGUAGE

Hi.
Hello.
Good morning.
Good afternoon.
Good evening/
night.
Goodbye.
See you soon.
Yes.
No.
Please.
Thank you.
Many thanks.
Youre welcome.
Apologies.
May I?
Excuse me.

Mucho gusto.

Where are you from?

Im leaving now.
Me voy ahora.

me yamo ...

pwedo ver la
abeetasyon

Its fine. Ill take it.


Est bien. La tomo.

Me llamo ...

The pleasure is mine.

I dont like it.


No me gusta.

My name is ...

eenklooye el desayoono

May I see the room?


Puedo ver la
habitacin?

Cmo se llama usted? komo se yama oosted (pol)


Cmo te llamas?
komo te yamas (inf)

Its a pleasure to meet you.

Does it include breakfast?


Incluye el desayuno?

Whats your name?

1010 L A N G UA G E M e x i c a n S l a n g

lonelyplanet.com

MEXICAN SLANG

LANGUAGE

Pepper your conversations with a few slang expressions! You'll hear many of these slang words
and phrases all around Mexico, but others are particular to Mexico City.

Qu onda?
Whats up?, What's happening?
Qu pasin? (Mexico City)
Whats up?, What's going on?
Qu padre!
How cool!
fregn
really good at something, way cool, awesome
Este club est fregn.
This club is way cool.
El cantante es un fregn.
The singer is really awesome.
ser muy buena onda
to be really cool, nice
Mi novio es muy buena onda.
My boyfriend is really cool.
Eres muy buena onda.
Youre really cool (nice).
pisto (in the north)
booze
alips
booze
echarse un alips, echarse un trago
to go get a drink
Echamos un alips/trago.
Let's go have a drink.
tirar la onda
try to pick someone up, flirt
ligar
to flirt
irse de reventn
go partying
Vmonos de reventn!
Lets go party!
reven
a rave (huge party with loud music and wild
atmosphere)
un desmadre
a mess
Simn.
Yes.
Nel.
No.
No hay tos.
No problem. (literally theres no cough.)
rale! (positive)
Sounds great! (responding to an invitation)

rale! (negative)
What the *#&$!? (taunting exclamation)
Caray!
Shit!
Te cae?
Are you serious?
Me late.
Sounds really good to me.
Me vale.
I dont care, Whatever.
Sale y vale.
I agree, Sounds good.
Paso sin ver!
I cant stand it!, No thank you!
Gucatelas! Gucala!
How gross! Thats disgusting!
Bjale!
Dont exaggerate!, Come on!
Chale?! (Mexico City)
No way!
Te pasas!
Thats it! You've gone too far!
No manches!
Get outta here!, You must be kidding!
un resto
a lot
lana
money, dough
carnal
brother
cuate, cuaderno
buddy
chavo
guy, dude
chava
girl, gal
jefe
father
jefa
mother
la tira, la julia
the police
la chota (Mexico City)
the police

lonelyplanet.com

L A N G UA G E H e a l t h 1011

LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES

EMERGENCIES
Help!
Fire!
Ive been
robbed.
Go away!
Get lost!

Do you speak (English)?

Socorro!
sokoro
Fuego!
fwego
Me han robado. me an robado
Djeme!
Vyase!

dekheme
vayase

Call ...!
Llame a ...!
yame a
the police
la polica
la poleeseea
a doctor
un mdico
oon medeeko
an ambulance una ambulancia oona amboo
lansya

Its an emergency.
Es una emergencia.

es oona emerkhensya

Could you help me, please?


Me puede ayudar,
por favor?

me pwede ayoodar
por favor

Im lost.
Estoy perdido/a.

estoy perdeedo/a

Where are the toilets?


Dnde estn los baos? donde stan los banyos

HEALTH
Im sick.
Estoy enfermo/a.

estoy enfermo/a

I need a doctor.
Necesito un doctor.

neseseeto oon doktor

Wheres the hospital?


Dnde est el hospital? donde esta el ospeetal

Im pregnant.
Estoy embarazada.

estoy embarasada

Ive been vaccinated.


Estoy vacunado/a.

a cough
Im allergic
to ...
antibiotics
nuts
peanuts
Im ...
asthmatic
diabetic
epileptic

Tengo ...
diarrea
nusea
un dolor de
cabeza
tos

tengo ...
dyarea
nowsea
oon dolor de
kabesa
tos

Soy alrgico/a
soy alerkheeko/a
a ...
a ...
los antibiticos los anteebyo
teekos
las nueces
las nweses
los cacahuates los kakakhwates
Soy ...
asmtico/a
diabtico/a
epilptico/a

soy ...
asmateeko/a
dyabeteeko/a
epeelepteeko/a

Hay alguien que hable ai algyen ke able


ingls?
eengles

I (dont) understand.
(No) Entiendo.

(no) entyendo

How do you say ...?


Cmo se dice ...?

komo se deese ...

What does ...mean?


Qu significa ...?

ke seegneefeeka ...

Could you
Puede ..., por
please ...?
favor?
repeat that
repetirlo
speak more
hablar ms
slowly
despacio
write it down escribirlo

pwede ... por


favor
repeteerlo
ablar mas
despasyo
eskreebeerlo

NUMBERS
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
30
31
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
101
200
1000
5000

uno
dos
tres
cuatro
cinco
seis
siete
ocho
nueve
diez
once
doce
trece
catorce
quince
diecisis
diecisiete
dieciocho
diecinueve
veinte
veintiuno
treinta
treinta y uno
cuarenta
cincuenta
sesenta
setenta
ochenta
noventa
cien
ciento uno
doscientos
mil
cinco mil

oono
dos
tres
kwatro
seenko
says
syete
ocho
nweve
dyes
onse
dose
trese
katorse
keense
dyeseesays
dyeseesyete
dyeseeocho
dyeseenweve
vaynte
vaynteeoono
traynta
traynta ee oono
kwarenta
seenkwenta
sesenta
setenta
ochenta
noventa
syen
syento oono
dosyentos
meel
seenko meel

LANGUAGE

I have ...
diarrhea
nausea
a headache

estoy vakoonado/a

Habla/Hablas (ingls)? abla/ablas (eengles) (pol/inf)

Does anyone here speak English?

1012 L A N G UA G E Pa p e r w o r k

PAPERWORK
birth certificate
border (frontier)
car-owners title
car registration
customs
drivers license
identification
immigration
insurance
passport
temporary vehicle
import permit
tourist card
visa

certificado de nacimiento
la frontera
ttulo de propiedad
registracin
aduana
licencia de manejar
identificacin
migracin
seguro
pasaporte
permiso de importacin
temporal de vehculo
tarjeta de turista
visado

Id like to buy ...


keesyera komprar ...

Im just looking.
Slo estoy mirando.

solo estoy meerando

May I look at it?


Puedo verlo/la?

pwedo verlo/la

How much is it?


Cunto cuesta?

kwanto kwesta

Thats too expensive for me.


Es demasiado caro
para m.

es demasyado karo
para mee

Could you lower the price?


Podra bajar un poco
el precio?

podreea bakhar oon poko


el presyo

I dont like it.


No me gusta.

no me goosta

Ill take it.


LANGUAGE

Lo llevo.

cambio
la tienda
la lavandera
el mercado
la farmacia

general store
laundry
market
pharmacy/
chemist
post office

la oficina
la ofeeseena
de correos
de koreos
el supermercado el sooper
merkado
la oficina de
la ofeeseena de
turismo
tooreesmo

supermarket
tourist office

A qu hora abre/cierra?
a ke ora abre/syera

I want to change some money/travelers checks.


Quisiera cambiar dinero/cheques de viajero.
keesyera kambyar deenero/chekes de vyakhero

What is the exchange rate?


Cul es el tipo de cambio?
kwal es el teepo de kambyo

I want to call ...


Quisiera llamar a ...
keesyera lyamar a ...

airmail
letter
registered (mail)
stamps

correo areo
carta
certificado
timbres

Es la una.

American dollars
dolares amereekanos

credit cards
tarjetas de crdito

tarkhetas de kredeeto

travelers checks
chekes de vyakhero

less
more
large
small

menos
ms
grande
pequeo/a

Im looking
for (the) ...
ATM

Estoy buscando ... estoy booskando


el cajero
automtico

ke ora es

Its one oclock.

aseptan ...

dlares americanos

koreo aereo
karta
serteefeekado
teembres

What time is it?


Qu hora es?

Aceptan ...?

el banko
la leebrereea
la kasa de
kambyo
la tyenda
la lavandereea
el merkado
la farmasya

TIME & DATES

lo yevo

Do you accept ...?

cheques de viajero

bank
el banco
bookstore
la librera
exchange office la casa de

What time does it open/close?

SHOPPING & SERVICES


Quisiera comprar ...

lonelyplanet.com

menos
mas
grande
pekenyo/a

el kakhero
owtomateeko

es la oona

Its seven oclock.


Son las siete.

son las syete

Half past two.


Dos y media.

dos ee medya

midnight
noon
now
today
tonight
tomorrow
yesterday

medianoche
medioda
ahora
hoy
esta noche
maana
ayer

medyanoche
medyodeea
aora
oy
esta noche
manyana
ayer

Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday

lunes
martes
mircoles

loones
martes
myerkoles

lonelyplanet.com

L A N G UA G E T r a n s p o r t a t i o n 1013

Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday

jueves
viernes
sbado
domingo

khweves
vyernes
sabado
domeengo

January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December

enero
febrero
marzo
abril
mayo
junio
julio
agosto
septiembre
octubre
noviembre
diciembre

enero
febrero
marso
abreel
mayo
khoonyo
khoolyo
agosto
septyembre
oktoobre
novyembre
deesyembre

TRANSPORTATION

Public Transportation
What time does A qu hora ...
... leave/arrive? sale/llega?
the boat
el barco
the bus (city)
el camin
the bus (intercity) el autobs
the minibus
el pesero
the plane
el avin

a ke ora ...
sale/yega
el barko
el kamyon
el owtoboos
el pesero
el avyon

the airport
el aeropuerto
the bus station la estacin de

el aeropwerto
la estasyon de
owtobooses
la parada de
owtobooses
oon kaseeyero
la takeeya

autobuses
la parada de
autobuses
a luggage locker un casillero
the ticket office la taquilla

the bus stop

Un boleto a ..., por favor. oon boleto a ... por favor

Whats the fare to ...?


Cunto cuesta hasta ...? kwanto kwesta asta ...

students
1st class
2nd class
single/one-way
round-trip
taxi

de estudiante
primera clase
segunda clase
viaje sencillo
redondo
taxi

de estoodyante
preemera klase
segoonda klase
veeakhe senseeyo
redondo
taksee

car
motorbike

Quisiera
rentar ...
un cuatro por
cuatro
un coche
una moto

Acceso
Estacionamiento
Camino en Reparacin
Ceda el Paso
Conserve Su Derecha
Curva Peligrosa
Derrumbes
Despacio
Desviacin
Direccin nica
Escuela (Zona Escolar)
Hombres Trabajando
Mantenga Su Derecha
No Adelantar
No Hay Paso
Pare/Stop
Peaje
Peligro
Prepare Su Cuota
Prohibido Aparcar/
No Estacionar
Prohibido el Paso
Puente Angosto
Salida de Autopista
Topes/Vibradores
Tramo en Reparacin
Va Corta
Va Cuota
bicycle
hitchhike
pickup (ute)
truck

Entrance
Parking
Road Repairs
Give Way
Keep to the Right
Dangerous Curve
Landslides
Slow
Detour
One-Way
School (zone)
Men at Work
Keep to the Right
No Overtaking
Road Closed
Stop
Toll
Danger
Have Toll Ready
No Parking
No Entry
Narrow Bridge
Freeway/Highway Exit
Speed Bumps
Road Under Repair
Short Route (often
a toll road)
Toll Highway

bicicleta
pedir aventn
pickup
camin

beeseekleta
pedeer aventon
peekop
kamyon

Wheres a gas/petrol station?


Dnde hay una
gasolinera?

donde ai oona
gasoleenera

How much is a liter of gasoline/petrol?


Cunto cuesta el litro
de gasolina?

kwanto kwesta el leetro


de gasoleena

Please fill it up.


Lleno, por favor.

Private Transportation
Id like to
hire a/an ...
4WD

Though Mexico mostly uses the familiar international road signs, you should be prepared
to encounter these other signs as well:

yeno por favor

Id like (100) pesos worth.


keesyera
rentar ...
oon kwatro por
kwatro
oon koche
oona moto

Quiero (cien) pesos.

diesel
gas/petrol
unleaded

kyero (syen) pesos

diesel
gasolina
gasolina sin
plomo

deesel
gasoleena
gasoleena seen
plomo

LANGUAGE

A ticket to ..., please.

ROAD SIGNS

1014 L A N G UA G E T r a v e l w i t h C h i l d re n

oil
tire
puncture

aceite
llanta
agujero

asayte
yanta
agookhero

lonelyplanet.com

Do you have ...?


Hay ...?
ai ...

a car baby seat


Is this the road to (...)?
Por aqu se va a (...)?
por akee se va a (...)

a child-minding service

(How long) Can I park here?


(Por cunto tiempo) Puedo estacionarme aqu?
(por kwanto tyempo) pwedo esstasyonarme akee

Where do I pay?
Dnde se paga?
donde se paga

oon club para nios


oon kloob para neenyos

a childrens menu
un men infantil
oon menoo eenfanteel

a daycare

I need a mechanic/tow truck.


Necesito un mecnico/remolque.
neseseeto oon mekaneeko/remolke

Is there a garage near here?


Hay un garaje cerca de aqu?
ai oon garakhe serka de akee

The car has broken down (in ...).


El coche se se descompuso (en ...).
el koche se deskompooso (en ...)

The motorbike wont start.


La moto no arranca.
la moto no aranka

una guardera
oona gwardereea

(disposable) diapers/nappies
paales (de usar y tirar)
panyales (de oosar ee teerar)

an (English-speaking) babysitter
una niera (que habla ingls)
oona neenyera (ke abla eengles)

formula (milk)
leche en polvo
leche en polvo

a highchair

I have a flat tire.


Tengo una llanta ponchada.
tengo oona yanta ponchada

Ive run out of gas/petrol.


Me qued sin gasolina.
me kede seen gasoleena

Ive had an accident.


Tuve un accidente.
toove oon akseedente
LANGUAGE

un asiento de seguridad para bebs


oon asyento de segooreedad para bebes

TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN


I need ...

una silla para beb


oona seeya para bebe

a potty
una bacinica
oona baseeneeka

a stroller
una carreola
oona kareola

Do you mind if I breast-feed here?


Le molesta que d el pecho aqu?
le molesta ke de el pecho akee

Are children allowed?

Necesito ...
neseseeto ...

Se admiten nios?
se admeeten neenyos

Also available from Lonely Planet:


Mexican Spanish Phrasebook

1015

Glossary
For more food and drink terms, also see the
Food & Drink Glossary (p100); for transportation terms, see the Transportation
chapter (p983); for general terms, see the
Language chapter (p1007).
AC antes de Cristo (before Christ); equivalent to BC
adobe sun-dried mud brick used for building
aduana customs
agave family of plants including the maguey
Alameda name of formal parks in several Mexican cities
albergue de juventud youth hostel
alebrije colorful wooden animal figure
alfarera potters workshop
alfiz rectangular frame around a curved arch; an Arabic
influence on Spanish and Mexican buildings

Altiplano Central dry plateau stretching across north


central Mexico between the two Sierra Madre ranges

amate paper made from tree bark


ngeles Verdes Green Angels; government-funded
mechanics who patrol Mexicos major highways in green
vehicles; they help stranded motorists with fuel and spare
parts
antro bar with (often loud) recorded music and usually
some space to dance
Apdo abbreviation for apartado (Box) in addresses;
hence Apdo Postal means Post Office Box
arroyo brook, stream
artesanas handicrafts, folk arts
atlas, atlantes (pl) sculpted male figure(s) used
instead of a pillar to support a roof or frieze; a telamon
atrium churchyard, usually a big one
autopista expressway, dual carriageway
azulejo painted ceramic tile

baha bay
balneario bathing place, often a natural hot spring
baluarte bulwark, defensive wall
barrio neighborhood of a town or city, often a poor
neighborhood

caballeros literally horsemen, but corresponds to


gentlemen in English; look for it on toilet doors
cabaa cabin, simple shelter
cabina Baja Californian term for a caseta
cacique regional warlord; political strongman

enjoyed in such cities as Guanajuato and Zacatecas;


musicians lead a crowd of revelers through the streets,
singing and telling stories as they go
calzada grand boulevard or avenue
calzones long baggy shorts worn by indigenous men
camarn chapel beside the main altar in a church; contains ceremonial clothing for images of saints or the Virgin
camin truck or bus
camioneta pickup truck
campesino/a country person, peasant
capilla abierta open chapel; used in early Mexican monasteries for preaching to large crowds of indigenous people
casa de cambio exchange house; place where currency
is exchanged; faster to use than a bank
casa de huspedes cheap and congenial accommodations, often a home converted into simple guest lodgings

caseta de larga distancia, caseta de telfono,


caseta telefnica public telephone call station
cazuela clay cooking pot; usually sold in a nested set
cenote a limestone sinkhole filled with rainwater; often
used in Yucatn as a reservoir

central camionera bus terminal


cerro hill
Chac Maya rain god
chac-mool pre-Hispanic stone sculpture of a hunchedup figure; the stomach may have been used as a sacrificial
altar
charreada Mexican rodeo
charro Mexican cowboy
chenes wells (Yucatn Peninsula)
Chilango/a person from Mexico City
chinampa Aztec garden built from lake mud and
vegetation; versions still exist at Xochimilco, Mexico City
chingar literally to fuck; it has a wide range of
colloquial usages in Mexican Spanish equivalent to those
in English
chultn cement-lined brick cistern found in the chenes
region in the Puuc hills south of Mrida
Churrigueresque Spanish late-baroque architectural
style; found on many Mexican churches
cigarro cigarette
clavadistas cliff divers of Acapulco and Mazatln
Coatlicue mother of the Aztec gods
colectivo minibus or car that picks up and drops off
passengers along a predetermined route; can also refer to
other types of transportation, such as boats, where passengers share the total fare

GLOSSARY

billete banknote
boleto ticket
brujo/a witch doctor, shaman; similar to curandero/a
burro donkey

calle street
callejn alley
callejoneada originally a Spanish tradition, still

1016

GLOSSARY

coleto/a citizen of San Cristbal de Las Casas


colonia neighborhood of a city, often a wealthy

estpite long, narrow, pyramid-shaped, upside-down

residential area
combi minibus

ex-convento former convent or monastery


ex-voto small painting on wood, tin, cardboard,

comida corrida set lunch


completo literally full up; no vacancy; a sign you may

glass etc; placed in a church to give thanks for miracles,


answered prayers etc (see also retablo)
excusado toilet

see at hotel desks


conde count (nobleman)
conquistador early Spanish explorerconqueror
cordillera mountain range
correos post office
coyote person who smuggles Mexican immigrants into
the US
criollo Mexican-born person of Spanish parentage; in
colonial times considered inferior by peninsulares
Cristeros Roman Catholic rebels of the late 1920s
cuota toll; a va cuota is a toll road
curandero/a literally curer; a medicine man or
woman who uses herbal and/or magical methods and
often emphasizes spiritual aspects of disease

damas ladies; the sign on toilet doors


danzantes literally dancers; stone carvings at Monte
Albn
DC despus de Cristo (after Christ); equivalent to AD
degustacin tasting session, especially of wine
de lujo deluxe; often used with some license
de paso a bus that began its route somewhere else, but
stops to let passengers on or off at various points often
arriving late; a local bus is preferable
delegacin a large urban governmental subdivision in
Mexico City comprising numerous colonias
descompuesto broken, out of order
DF Distrito Federal (Federal District); about half of
Mexico City lies in the DF
dueo/a owner
dulcera candy store

GLOSSARY

edificio building
ejido communal landholding
embarcadero jetty, boat landing
encomienda a grant of indigenous labor or tribute to
a conquistador; in return, the conquistador was supposed
to protect the indigenous people in question and convert
them to Catholicism, but in reality they were usually
treated as little more than slaves
enramada bower or shelter; often refers to a thatchcovered, open-air restaurant
enredo wraparound skirt
entremeses hors doeuvres; also theatrical sketches
like those performed during the Cervantino festival in
Guanajuato
escuela school
esq abbreviation of esquina (corner) in addresses
estacin de ferrocarril train station

pilaster; the hallmark of Churrigueresque architecture

faja waist sash used in traditional indigenous costume


feria fair or carnival, typically occurring during a
religious holiday

ferrocarril railway
ficha a token or counter; you often need one to operate
lockers at bus terminals
fiesta mexicana touristic show of Mexican folkloristic
dance and music, often with dinner and drinks included
fonda inn
fraccionamiento subdivision, housing development;
similar to a colonia, often modern
frontera a border between political entities

gachupines derogatory term for the colonial


peninsulares
giro money order
gringo/a US or Canadian (and sometimes European,
Australasian etc) visitor to Latin America; can be used
derogatorily
grito literally shout; the Grito de Dolores was the 1810
call to independence by parish priest Miguel Hidalgo,
which sparked the struggle for independence from Spain
gruta cave, grotto
guarache see huarache
guardera de equipaje room for storing luggage (eg
in a bus station)
guayabera also guayabarra; mans shirt with pockets
and appliqud designs up the front, over the shoulders
and down the back; worn in place of a jacket and tie in
hot regions
gero/a fair-haired, fair-complexioned person; a more
polite alternative to gringo/a

hacendado hacienda owner


hacha flat, carved-stone object from the Classic Veracruz civilization; connected with the ritual ball game
hacienda estate; Hacienda (capitalized) is the Treasury
Department
hay there is, there are; youre also likely to hear no hay
(there is not, there are not)
henequn agave fiber used to make sisal rope; grown
particularly around Mrida
hombres men; sign on toilet doors
hostal can mean either a small hotel or a budget hostel
huarache also guarache; woven leather sandal, often
with tire tread as the sole
huevos eggs; also slang for testicles

G L O S S A R Y 1017

huipil, huipiles (pl) indigenous womans sleeveless


tunic, usually highly decorated; can be thigh-length or
reach the ankles
Huizilopochtli Aztec tribal god
iglesia church
INAH Instituto Nacional de Antropologa e Historia; the
body in charge of most ancient sites and some museums

indgena indigenous, pertaining to the original


inhabitants of Latin America; can also refer to the people
themselves
INI Instituto Nacional Indgenista; set up in 1948 to
improve the lot of indigenous Mexicans and to integrate
them into society; sometimes accused of paternalism and
trying to stifle protest
intercambio interchange; often used to describe
meetings with local people for Spanish and English
conversation
internet inalmbrico wireless internet (wi-fi)
ISH impuesto sobre hospedaje; lodging tax on the price
of hotel rooms
isla island
IVA impuesto de valor agregado, or ee-bah; a sales tax
added to the price of many items (15% on hotel rooms)
ixtle maguey fiber

jaguar panther native to southern Mexico and Central and South America; principal symbol of the Olmec
civilization
jai alai the Basque game pelota, brought to Mexico by
the Spanish; a bit like squash, played on a long court with
curved baskets attached to the arm
jardn garden
jarocho/a citizen of Veracruz
jefe boss or leader, especially a political one
jipijapa Yucatn name for a Panama hat
jorongo small poncho worn by men
Kukulcn Maya name for the plumed serpent god
Quetzalcatl

lada short for larga distancia


ladino person of mixed (usually indigenous and

machismo Mexican masculine bravura


madre literally mother; the term can also be used
colloquially with an astonishing array of meanings
maguey type of agave, with thick pointed leaves
growing straight out of the ground; tequila and mezcal are
made from its sap
malecn waterfront street, boulevard or promenade
maana literally tomorrow or morning; in some
contexts it may just mean sometime in the future
maquiladora assembly-plant operation importing
equipment, raw materials and parts for assembly or
processing in Mexico, then exporting the products
mariachi small ensemble of street musicians playing
traditional ballads on guitars and trumpets
marimba wooden xylophone-like instrument popular
in southeastern Mexico
Mayab the lands of the Maya
mercado market; often a building near the center of
a town, with shops and open-air stalls in the surrounding
streets
Mesoamerica the region inhabited by the ancient
Mexican and Maya cultures
mestizaje mixedness, Mexicos mixed-blood heritage;
officially an object of pride
mestizo person of mixed (usually indigenous and
Spanish) ancestry
metate shallow stone bowl with legs used for grinding
maize and other foods
Mexican Hat Dance a courtship dance in which a girl
and boy dance around the boys hat
Mexican Revolution 1910 revolution that ended the
Porfiriato
milpa peasants small cornfield, often cultivated using
the slash-and-burn method
mirador, miradores (pl) lookout point(s)
Montezumas revenge Mexican version of
Delhi-belly or travelers diarrhea
mordida literally little bite; a small bribe to keep the
wheels of bureaucracy turning
mota marijuana
Mudjar Moorish architectural style imported to
Mexico by the Spanish
mujeres women; seen on toilet doors
municipio small local government area; Mexico is
divided into 2394 of them

GLOSSARY

Spanish) ancestry
lancha fast, open, outboard boat
larga distancia long-distance; usually refers to
telephones
latifundio large landholding; these sprang up after
Mexicos independence from Spain
latifundista powerful landowner who usurped communally owned land to form a latifundio
libramiento road, highway
licenciado university graduate; abbreviated as Lic and
used as an honorific before a persons name; status claimed
by many who dont actually possess a degree

lista de correos literally mail list; list displayed at a


post office of people for whom letters are waiting; similar
to General Delivery or Poste Restante
lleno full, as with a cars fuel tank
local can mean premises, such as a numbered shop or
an office in a mall or block; or can mean local a local
bus is one whose route starts from the bus station you
are in
locutorio same as a caseta telefnica

1018

GLOSSARY

na Maya thatched hut


Nafta North American Free Trade Agreement
Nhuatl language of the Nahua people, descendants
of the Aztecs
nao Spanish trading galleon
norteamericano North American, someone from
north of the USMexican border
Nte abbreviation for norte (north), used in street names

Ote abbreviation for oriente (east), used in street names


paceo/a person from La Paz, Baja California Sur
palacio de gobierno state capitol, state government
headquarters

GLOSSARY

palacio municipal town or city hall, headquarters of


the municipal corporation
palapa thatched-roof shelter, usually on a beach
palma long, paddle-like, carved-stone object from
the Classic Veracruz civilization; connected with the ritual
ball game
PAN Partido Accin Nacional (National Action Party);
the political party of president Felipe Caldern and his
predecessor Vicente Fox
panga fiberglass skiff for fishing or whale-watching in
Baja California
parada bus stop, usually for city buses
parado stationary, or standing up, as you often are on
2nd-class buses
parque nacional national park; an environmentally
protected area in which human exploitation is supposed to
banned or restricted
parroquia parish church
paseo boulevard, walkway or pedestrian street; the
tradition of strolling in a circle around the plaza in the
evening, men and women moving in opposite directions
Pemex government-owned petroleum extraction,
refining and retailing monopoly
pea evening of Latin American folk songs, often with a
political protest theme
peninsulares those born in Spain and sent by the
Spanish government to rule the colony in Mexico
perifrico ring road
pesero Mexico Citys word for colectivo; can mean bus
in the northeast
petate mat, usually made of palm or reed
peyote a hallucinogenic cactus
pinacoteca art gallery
piata clay pot or papier-mch mold decorated to
resemble an animal, pineapple, star etc filled with sweets
and gifts; smashed open at fiestas
pirata pirate; used to describe passenger-carrying
pickup trucks in some parts of Mexico
playa beach
plaza de toros bullring
plazuela small plaza

poblano/a person from Puebla; something in the style


of Puebla

pollero same as a coyote


Porfiriato reign of Porfirio Daz as presidentdictator
of Mexico for 30 years until the Mexican Revolution
portales arcades
posada inn
potosino from the city or state of San Luis Potos
presidio fort or forts garrison
PRI Partido Revolucionario Institucional (Institutional
Revolutionary Party); the political party that ruled Mexico
for most of the 20th century
primera first class
propina tip; different from a mordida, which is closer
to a bribe
Pte abbreviation for poniente (west), used in street
names
puerto port
pulque milky, low-alcohol brew made from the maguey
plant

quechqumitl indigenous womans shoulder cape


with an opening for the head; usually colorfully
embroidered, often diamond-shaped
quetzal crested bird with brilliant green, red and white
plumage native to southern Mexico, Central America and
northern South America; quetzal feathers were highly
prized in pre-Hispanic Mexico
Quetzalcatl plumed serpent god of pre-Hispanic
Mexico
rebozo long woolen or linen shawl covering the head
or shoulders

refugio a very basic cabin for shelter in the mountains


regiomontano/a person from Monterrey
reja wrought-iron window grille
reserva de la biosfera biosphere reserve; an
environmentally protected area where human exploitation
is steered toward sustainable activities
retablo altarpiece; small ex-voto painting placed in a
church to give thanks for miracles, answered prayers etc
ro river

s/n sin nmero (without number) used in street addresses


sacb, sacbeob (pl) ceremonial avenue(s) between
great Maya cities

salvavida lifeguard
sanatorio hospital, particularly a small private one
sanitario literally sanitary place; toilet
sarape blanket with opening for the head, worn as a
cloak

Semana Santa Holy Week; the week from Palm


Sunday to Easter Sunday; Mexicos major holiday period
when accommodations and transportation get very busy
servicios toilets

Lonely Planet Publications


G L O S S A R Y 1019

sierra mountain range


sitio taxi stand
stela/stele, stelae/steles (pl) standing stone monu-

Tlloc pre-Hispanic rain and water god


TLC Tratado de Libre Comercio; the North American Free

ment, usually carved


supermercado supermarket; anything from a small
corner store to a large, US-style supermarket
Sur south; often seen in street names

tope speed bump; found on the outskirts of many

taller shop or workshop; a taller mecnico is a mechanics shop, usually for cars; a taller de llantas is a tire-repair
shop
talud-tablero stepped building style typical of
Teotihuacn, with alternating vertical (tablero) and sloping
(talud) sections
tapato/a person born in the state of Jalisco
taquilla ticket window
telamon statue of a male figure, used instead of a pillar
to hold up the roof of a temple; an atlas
telar de cintura backstrap loom; the warp (lengthwise) threads are stretched between two horizontal bars,
one of which is attached to a post or tree and the other
to a strap around the weavers lower back, and the weft
(crosswise) threads are then woven in
telefrico cable car
telfono (celular) (cell/mobile) telephone
temascal pre-Hispanicstyle steam bath, often used
for curative purposes; sometimes spelt temazcal
templo church; anything from a chapel to a cathedral
teocalli Aztec sacred precinct
Tezcatlipoca multifaceted pre-Hispanic god; lord of
life and death and protector of warriors; as a smoking
mirror he could see into hearts, as the sun god he needed
the blood of sacrificed warriors to ensure he would rise
again
tezontle light red, porous volcanic rock used for
buildings by the Aztecs and conquistadores
tianguis indigenous peoples market
tienda store
tpico/a characteristic of a region; particularly used to
describe food

Trade Agreement (Nafta)


towns and villages, they are only sometimes marked by
signs
trapiche mill; in Baja California usually a sugar mill
tzompantli rack for the skulls of Aztec sacrificial
victims

UNAM Universidad Nacional Autnoma de Mxico


(National Autonomous University of Mexico)

universidad university
viajero/a traveler
villa juvenil youth sports center, often the location of
an albergue de juventud

voladores literally fliers; Totonac ritual in which men,


suspended by their ankles, whirl around a tall pole

War of Independence war for Mexican independence


from Spain that lasted from 1810 to 1821 and ended three
centuries of Spanish rule
War of the Castes bloody, 19th-century Maya uprising
in the Yucatn Peninsula
were-jaguar half-human, half-jaguar being portrayed
in Olmec art

ycata ceremonial stone structure of the Tarascan


civilization
yugo U-shaped, carved-stone object from the Classic
Veracruz civilization; connected with the ritual ball game
zagun vestibule or foyer; sometimes a porch
zcalo literally plinth; used in some Mexican towns to
mean the main plaza or square

Zona Rosa literally Pink Zone; a formerly glitzy,


expensive area of shops, hotels, restaurants and entertainment in Mexico City; by extension, a similar glitzy area in
another city

GLOSSARY

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