This fact sheet explains how the passive design principles

discussed in other fact sheets can be applied to utilise

free heating direct from the sun.

On average, 39 percent of energy

consumed in Australian homes is
for space heating and cooling.
Using passive solar design
dramatically reduces this figure.
WHAT IS PASSIVE SOLAR HEATING?
Passive solar heating is the least expensive way to heat
your home. It is also:
Free when designed into a new home or addition.
Appropriate for all climates where winter heating is
o
required (generally latitudes south of 27.5 S).
Achievable when building or renovating on any site with
solar access - often with little effort.
Achievable when buying a project home, with correct
orientation and slight floor plan changes.
Achievable when choosing an existing house, villa or unit.
Look for good orientation and shading.
Achievable using all types of Australian construction
systems.

Passive solar houses look like other homes but cost less to
run and are more comfortable to live in.
HOW PASSIVE SOLAR HEATING WORKS
Solar radiation is trapped by the greenhouse action of
correctly oriented (north facing) windows exposed to full
sun. Window frames and glazing type have a significant
effect on the efficiency of this process. [See: Glazing
Overview]
Trapped heat is absorbed and stored by materials with
high thermal mass (usually masonry) inside the house. It is
re-released at night when it is needed to offset heat losses
to lower outdoor temperatures. [See: Thermal Mass]
Passive shading allows maximum winter solar gain and
prevents summer overheating. This is most simply achieved
with northerly orientation of appropriate areas of glass and
well designed eaves overhangs. [See: Shading]

Put simply, design for passive solar

heating is about keeping summer
sun out and letting winter sun in.
Passive solar heating requires careful application of the
following passive design principles:
> Northerly orientation of daytime living areas.
> Appropriate areas of glass on northern facades.
> Passive shading of glass.
> Thermal mass for storing heat.
> Insulation and draught sealing.
> Floor plan zoning based on heating needs.
> Advanced glazing solutions.
This will maximise winter heat gain, minimise winter heat
loss and concentrate heating where it is most needed.

Heat is re-radiated and distributed to where it is needed.

Direct re-radiation is the most effective means. Design
floor plans to ensure that the most important rooms
(usually day-use living areas) face north for the best solar
access. Heat is also conducted through building materials
and distributed by air movement.

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Heat loss is minimised with appropriate window
treatments and well insulated walls, ceilings and exposed
floors. Thermal mass must be insulated to be effective
(including ground slab edges in cool and cold climates).
[See: Insulation Overview; Thermal Mass]
Air infiltration is minimised with airlocks, draught sealing,
airtight construction detailing and quality windows and
doors.
Appropriate house shape and room layout is important
to minimise heat loss, which occurs mostly through the
roof and then through external walls. In cool and cold
climates, compact shapes that minimise roof and external
wall area are more efficient. As the climate gets warmer
more external wall area is appropriate.
PASSIVE SOLAR DESIGN PRINCIPLES
GREENHOUSE (GLASSHOUSE) PRINCIPLES
Passive design relies on greenhouse principles to trap
solar radiation.

ORIENTATION FOR PASSIVE SOLAR HEATING

For best passive heating performance, daytime living areas
should face north. Ideal orientation is true north and can
o
o
be extended to between 15 west and 20 east of solar
north. [See: Orientation]

Where solar access is limited, as is often

the case in urban areas, energy efficiency
can still be achieved with careful design.
Homes on poorly oriented or narrow blocks with limited
solar access can employ alternative passive solutions to
increase comfort and reduce heating costs. [See Insulation
Overview; Glazing; Shading; Thermal Mass]
PASSIVE SOLAR SHADING
Fixed shading devices can maximise solar access to
north facing glass throughout the year, without requiring
any user effort. Good orientation is essential for effective
passive shading.
Fixed shading above openings excludes high angle summer
sun but admits lower angle winter sun.
Use adjustable shading to regulate solar access on other
elevations.
Correctly designed eaves are the simplest and least
expensive shading method for northern elevations.

Tinted glass
Gas filled space

Heat is gained when short

radiation passes through
Clear wave
glass
glass, where it is absorbed by building elements and
furnishings and re-radiated as longwave radiation. Longwave
Reflected
radiation cannot pass back
through glass as easily.
Inner glass

Solar radiation
absorbes and
This
convected
away

43% absorbed
and convected
away

45% of 'H' for

latitudes
up to
o
27.5 [Brisbane]

Summer

reduces heat

diagram shows transmitted

theradiated
percentage of solar heat gain
and
inward
through standard 3mm
glazing. For comparison to
advanced glazing materials [See: Glazing]

5% Reflected

The rule of thumb for calculating eaves width is given

below. This rule applies to all latitudes south of and
o
including 27.5 (Brisbane, Geraldton). For latitudes north
of this the response varies with climate. [See: Shading]

Heat is lost through

glass by conduction,
particularly at night.
Conductive loss can be
controlled by window
insulation
treatments
40% transmitted
such as close fitting
heavy drapes with snug
pelmets, double glazing
12% absorbed
and radiated
and other advanced
into space
glazing technology.

Winter
from 30% of 'H'
H

Permanently shaded glass at the top of the window is a

significant source of heat loss. To avoid this, the distance
between the top of glazing and eaves underside should
be 50% of overhang or 30% of window height.
[See: Shading]

Heat loss through glass (and walls) is proportional to the

difference between internal and external temperatures.
Because the hottest air rises to the ceiling, the greatest
temperature difference occurs at the top of the window.
PLANNING AND DESIGN
FLOOR PLANNING
Plan carefully to ensure passive solar gain to the rooms
that most need it.

LOCATING HEATERS
Internal thermal mass walls are ideal for locating heaters
next to. Thermal lag will transfer heat to adjoining spaces
over extended periods. [See: Heating & Cooling]
External wall locations can result in additional heat loss,
as increasing the temperature differential between inside
and out increases the rate of heat flow through the wall.
Heaters should not be located under windows.

Adverse effects of draughts

In general, group living areas along the north facade and

bedrooms along the south or east facade.
Living areas and the kitchen are usually the most important
locations for passive heating as they are used day and
evening.

Heaters create draughts when operating (see above). Try

to locate heaters where they can draw cooled air back via
passageways rather than through sitting areas.
LOCATING THERMAL MASS

Bedrooms require less heating. It is easy to get warm and

stay warm in bed. Childrens bedrooms can be classified
as living areas if considerable hours are spent there.

As a first priority, locate thermal mass where it is exposed

to direct solar radiation or radiant heat sources. Thermal
mass will also absorb reflected radiant heat.

Utility and service areas such as bathrooms, laundries and

garages are used for short periods and generally require
less heating. These areas are best located:

Additionally, thermal mass should be located predominantly

in the northern half of the house where it will absorb most
passive solar heat.

> To the west or south west, to act as a buffer to hot

afternoon sun and the cold westerly winds common to
many regions.
> To the east and south east, except where this is the
direction of cooling breezes.
Detached garages to the east and west can protect north
facing courtyards from low angle summer sun and direct
cooling breezes into living spaces.
Compact floor plans minimise external wall and roof
area, thereby minimising heat loss. Determine a balance
between minimising heat loss and achieving adequate
daylighting and ventilation.
Consider specific regional heating and cooling needs
and the site characteristics to determine an ideal
building shape.

Consider use of low thermal mass

materials and high levels of insulation
in south facing rooms.
Use thermal mass dividing walls between north facing
living rooms and south facing bedrooms. Thermal lag will
distribute some of the heat to bedrooms.
Air movement within the house will heat or cool thermal
mass. Locate mass away from cold draught sources
(eg. entries) and expose it to convective warm air movement
within the house (eg. hallways to bedrooms). Consider the
balance between heating and cooling requirements. [See:
Thermal Mass]

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AIR MOVEMENT AND COMFORT

MULTI-STOREY HOMES

Air movement creates a cooling effect by increasing

the evaporation of perspiration. Draughts increase
the perception of feeling cold. [See: Passive Design
Introduction]

Place the majority of thermal mass and the main heating

sources at lower levels.

Avoid convection draughts by designing floor plans and

furnishing layouts so that cooled return air paths from
windows and external walls to heaters or thermal mass
sources are along traffic areas (hallways, stairs, non-sitting
areas).

Ensure upper levels can be closed off to stop heat rising in

winter and overheating in summer.

Create draught free nooks for sitting, dining and

sleeping.

Avoid open balcony rails. They allow cool air to fall like a
waterfall into spaces below.

Use ceiling fans to circulate warm air evenly in rooms

and push it down from the ceiling to living areas. For low
ceilings, use fans with reversible blade direction.

Use ceiling fans to push warm air back to lower levels

DESIGN FOR CONVECTIVE AIR MOVEMENT

Convection currents are created when heat rises to the
ceiling and air cooled by windows and external walls is
drawn back along the floor to the heat source.
Convective air movement can be used to great benefit
with careful design or can be a major source of thermal
discomfort with poor design.
Analyse warm air flows by visualising a helium filled
balloon riding the thermal currents. Where would it
go? Where would it be trapped?
Analyse cool air flows by visualising where water
would run if you left an upstairs tap on.

Use high insulation levels and lower (or no) thermal mass
at upper levels.

Use stairs to direct cool air draughts back to heat sources,

located away from sitting areas.

Minimise window areas at upper levels and double glaze.

Use close fitting drapes with snug pelmet boxes.
Maximise the openable area of upper level windows for
summer ventilation. Avoid fixed glazing.
Locate bedrooms upstairs in cold climates so they are
warmed by rising air.
PREVENTING HEAT LOSS
Preventing heat loss is an essential component of efficient
home design in most climates. It is even more critical in
passive solar design as the heating source is only available
during the day.
The building fabric must retain energy collected during the
day for up to 16 hours each day and considerably longer
in cloudy weather. To achieve this, careful attention must
be paid to each of the following factors.
INSULATION

SINGLE STOREY HOMES

Minimise convective air movement in winter with
insulation of walls, glazing and ceilings. Some convection
will still occur and is a major means of passive heat
distribution in any home.
Controlled convection can be used to warm rooms not
directly exposed to heat sources. It can also reduce
unwanted heat loss from rooms that do not require
heating.
Opening or closing doors will control the return air flow
but impact on privacy. Use vents that can be opened or
sealed.
Highlight louvres or transom panels over doors promote
and control movement of the warmest air at ceiling level
whilst retaining privacy.
Floor to ceiling doors are effective in facilitating air
movement.

High insulation levels are essential in passive solar houses.

Insulate to at least the minimum levels recommended in
the Australian Standards. [See: Insulation Overview]
Ceilings and roof spaces account for 25 to 35 percent of
winter heat loss and must be well insulated. To prevent
heat loss, locate most of the insulation next to the
ceiling as this is where the greatest temperature control
is required.
Floors account for 10 to 20 percent of winter heat loss. In
cool climates insulate the underside of suspended timber
floors and suspended concrete slabs. Insulate the edges of
ground slabs but do not insulate under ground slabs unless
groundwater is present. [See: Insulation Installation]
Walls account for 15 to 25 percent of winter heat loss.
Insulation levels in walls are often limited by cavity
or frame width. In cold climates, alternative wall
construction systems that allow higher insulation levels
are recommended.

In high mass walls (double brick, rammed earth, straw

bale and reverse brick veneer) thermal lag slows heat flow
on a day/night basis. Insulation is still required in most
instances (straw bale walls are an exception as they have
a high insulation value) [See: Thermal Mass]

Use airtight construction detailing,

particularly at wall/ceiling and
wall/floor junctions.

Internal walls and floors between heating and non heating

zones can be insulated to minimise heat loss.

Control ventilation so it occurs when and where you want it.

Pay special attention to

cathedral type ceilings

Choose well made windows and doors with airtight seals.

Improve the performance of existing windows and doors
by using draught-proofing strips. Use between the door
and frame, at the door base and between the openable
sash of the window and the frame.

Insulate walls between

ceilings to the same
rating as the ceilings
Up to R3.5
ceiling insulation

Seal gaps between the window/door frame and the wall

prior to fitting architraves.

Source: SEAV

Avoid using downlights that penetrate ceiling insulation.

Up to R2.0 wall
insulation

Insulate under timber and

suspended slab floors

Insulate cavity
brick walls

DRAUGHT SEALING

Duct exhaust fans and install non-return baffles.

Avoid open fires and fit dampers to chimneys and flues.
Do not use permanently ventilated skylights.
Use tight fitting floor boards and insulate the underside of
timber floors in cooler climates.
Seal off air vents, use windows and doors for ventilation as
required. This may not be advisable for homes with unflued
gas heaters that require a level of fixed ventilation.

Source: SEAV

Air leakage accounts for 15 to 25 percent of winter

heat loss in buildings. The diagram below shows typical
sources of air leakage:

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passive solar heating

WINDOWS AND GLAZING
In terms of energy efficiency, glazing is a very important
element of the building envelope. In insulated
buildings it is the element through which most heat is
lost and gained. Glazing transfers both radiant and
conducted heat.
Avoid over-glazing - excessive areas of glass can be an
enormous energy liability.
Daytime heat gain must be balanced against night time
heat loss when selecting glazing areas.
Window frames can conduct heat. Use timber or thermally
separated metal window frames in cooler climates.
Views are an important consideration and often the cause
of over-glazing or inappropriate orientation and shading.
Careful planning is required to capitalise on views without
decreasing energy efficiency.
Shading and advanced glazing options are critical in
achieving this. There are many ways to reduce heat loss
through glazing. [See: Glazing Introduction; How to Use
WERS]

THERMAL MASS AND THERMAL LAG

Thermal mass is used to store heat from the sun during
the day and re-release it when it is required, to offset heat
loss to colder night time temperatures. It effectively evens
out day and night (diurnal) temperature variations. [See:
Thermal Mass]

When used correctly, thermal mass

can significantly increase comfort
and reduce energy consumption.
Thermal mass is essential for some
climates or design solutions but can
be a liability if used incorrectly.
Heat is absorbed by
the slab during the day

Summer sun

Winter sun

AIR LOCKS
Source: SEAV

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Air locks at all regularly used external openings (including

wood storage areas) are essential in cool and cold
climates. They prevent heat loss and draughts.
For efficient use of space, airlocks can be double purpose
rooms. Laundries, mud rooms and attached garages are
excellent functional airlocks. Main entry airlocks can
include storage spaces for coats, hats, boots and a small
bench.
Allow sufficient space between doors so that closing the
outer door before opening the inner door (or vice versa)
can be done with ease of movement. Inadequate space
often leads to inner doors being left open.

Adequate levels of exposed (ie. not covered with

insulative materials such as carpet) internal thermal mass
in combination with other passive design elements will
ensure that temperatures remain comfortable all night (and
successive sunless days). This is due to a property known
as thermal lag.
Thermal lag is a term describing the amount of time taken
for a material to absorb and then re-release heat, or for
heat to be conducted through the material.

Avoid sliding doors in airlocks. They are invariably left

open, are difficult to seal and cant be closed with a hip
when both hands are full.

Thermal Lag times are influenced by:

Always design door swings from airlocks so that they will

blow closed if left open in strong winds, or consider using
door closers on external doors.

> Texture and coatings of surfaces.

> Temperature differentials between each face.

> Exposure to air movement and air speed.
> Thickness of material.
> Conductivity of material.
Rates of heat flow through materials are proportional to
the temperature differential between each face.
External walls have significantly greater temperature
differential than internal walls. The more extreme the
climate, the greater the temperature difference.

In warmer temperate climates, external wall materials

with a minimum time lag of 10 to 12 hours can effectively
even out internal/external diurnal (day/night) temperature
variations. In these climates, external walls with sufficient
thermal mass moderate internal/external temperature
variations to create comfort and eliminate the need for
supplementary heating and cooling.

An exception is when thermal mass is used to even out

seasonal temperature variations occuring in earth covered
buildings. Summer temperatures warm the building in
winter and winter temperatures cool it in summer. In
these applications, lag times of 180 days are required in
combination with the stabilising effect of the earths core
temperature.

In cool temperate and hot climates (or where the time

lag is less than 10-12 hours), external thermal mass walls
require external insulation to slow the rate of heat transfer
and moderate temperature differentials. In these climates,
thermal mass moderates internal temperature variations
to create comfort and reduce the need for heating and
cooling energy.

A rule of thumb for best

performance is: the exposed
internal area of thermal mass in
a room should be around 6 times
the area of north facing glass
with solar access.

The following table indicates the relative thermal lag of

some common building materials.
Material

Thickness mm

Time Lag hours

Concrete

250

6.9

Double Brick

220

6.2

AAC

200

7.0

Adobe

250

9.2

Rammed Earth

250

10.3

Compressed Earth Blocks

250

10.5

Sandy Loam

1000

30 days

Source: Baggs, S.A. et al. 1991, Australian Earth-Covered Buildings,

NSW University Press, Kensington.\

Low mass solutions with high

insulation levels work well in milder
climates with low diurnal ranges.
GLASS TO MASS AND FLOOR RATIOS
Optimum (solar exposed) glass to floor area ratios vary
between climates and designs. This is due to varying
diurnal ranges and the balance required between heating
and cooling.
Location and exposure of thermal mass to direct and
reflected radiation is also an important factor.
The useful thickness of thermal mass is the depth of
material that can absorb and re-release heat during a day/
night cycle. For most common building materials this is
100 to 150mm.

In mixed climates where heating and cooling needs are

equally important (for example Sydney, Adelaide, Perth)
the amount of thermal mass used should be proportional to
diurnal range. Higher diurnal ranges (inland) require more
mass, lower diurnal ranges (coastal) require less.
In heating climates with minor cooling requirements (such
as Canberra and Melbourne) larger glass areas with solar
access can be beneficial providing that heat loss through
glazing is adequately minimised and passive shading
optimised. This requires double glazing and close fitting
heavy drapes with snug pelmets.
Maximise externally insulated, internally exposed thermal
mass. Edge insulation is desirable for earth coupled slabs,
especially in colder areas. Earth coupling should be
avoided where ground water action or temperatures can
draw heat from slabs.
In cooling climates with minor heating requirements (for
example Brisbane) thermal mass levels are dependent
on diurnal range as above but, additionally, the cooling
effect of earth coupling (where achievable) can provide
significant benefits. Slab on ground construction is ideal
provided that slabs are protected from summer heating and
contact with sun.
In predominantly cooling climates (for example Cairns,
Darwin) solar exposed glass areas should be eliminated
and thermal mass minimised. Some exceptions apply for
advanced design solutions. [See: Passive Cooling]
Detailed analysis of glass to mass and floor area is complex
and can be confusing. Detailed coverage appears in other
publications. Refer to the additional key references at the
end of this sheet.

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Skylight to internal rooms or corridors

High efficiency hot water system

Ceiling fan

Window shading
to suit aspect

Solar
clothes
dryer
Water saving in
bathroom, kitchen
and laundry

Insulated walls,
elevated floors
and roofs

Tiled slab
on floor

Existing house

PASSIVE HEATING IN RENOVATIONS

GENERAL PRINCIPLES
Many opportunities exist for improving or including
passive solar design features when renovating an existing
home. They include:
Design extensions to allow passive solar access and to
facilitate movement of passive heat gains to other parts of
the house.
Include thermal mass in areas with solar access. (Use slab
on ground, reverse brick veneer or other insulated mass
walls). [See: Thermal Mass]
Increase existing insulation levels and insulate any
previously uninsulated ceilings and walls (and floors in
cool climates). Access to roof spaces and walls is often
easier during a renovation. [See: Insulation Overview,
Insulation Installation]
Use high performance windows and glazing for all new
windows and doors. Replace poorly performing windows
where possible glazing is normally the biggest area of
heat loss in any building.
Double glaze windows to reduce winter heat loss. Double
glazing does not prevent radiant heat from entering a
home, but slows down conducted and convective heat
losses. Expose the glazing to winter sun, but maintain
summer shading. [See: Shading, Glazing Overview]
Seal existing windows and external doors, replace warped
or poorly fitted doors. There is a wide range of seals
available through hardware retailers which can be fitted
to doors and windows at any time, but renovations are an
ideal opportunity.

Main windows to face

true solar north, shaded
by eaves or pergola

Extension

Create air locks at entrances in cool climates. In southern

Australia, unwelcome winter winds come from the
west and south. If entrances face these directions, it is
important to provide a buffer to prevent freezing winds
blowing straight into the house whenever someone opens
the door.
Add doors and walls to group areas with similar heating
needs into zones.
Consider a solar conservatory to maximise solar gains in
cool climates. Ensure it can be sealed off from the rest of
the house at night.
Install curtains with pelmet boxes where practical.
Windows are generally the area of greatest heat loss. Solid
topped pelmets with heavy double lined drapes which
touch the walls at either side of the window and also
touch the floor are a very effective way of reducing that
heat loss to a trickle.
Improve natural ventilation with operable roof vents and
maximum window opening areas. Even in cool climates
some degree of ventilation is necessary. Some window
designs provide better ventilation than others casements
and louvres are generally the best - but louvres need to be
well sealed. [See: Passive Cooling]
Increase natural daylighting with new appropriately
shaded skylights and windows. The following rules of
thumb are a useful guide:
North

Maximise windows, especially to living areas,

provide shading to the correct angle

East

Minimise windows where possible, provide deep

overhangs, external blinds or pergolas

West

Eliminate windows where possible, provide the

ability for complete shading by deep pergolas or
other operable devices

The thermal mass in RBV is in contact with the house

interior and helps to regulate indoor temperatures, for the
benefit of the occupants.

South

Minimise large windows, provide some weather

protection

This system is best used in conjunction with north oriented

living areas, so the solar gain from the winter sun can
add useful heat to these walls. [See: Alteration Northern
Sydney]

Views or other demands may necessitate large

windows on east, south or west facades. If this is the
case, creative design of shading and glazing should
be used to minimise unwanted heat loss and gain.
[See: Shading, Glazing Overview]
SOME QUICK RENOVATION TIPS
1. Turn the house around:
The ideal time to rethink the way a house works is when
planning a renovation.
Reorienting as much of the living space as possible to the
north side of the house achieves major improvements in
the winter comfort of a house in cooler climates.

L'DY
Patio

Covered patio

L'DY
Bed 2

Bed 2

Dining

KIT
Bath
Bath

Bed 1

Lounge

Original floor plan

Bed 1

KIT

Dining

Lounge

Cooling
summer
breezes

New floor plan

North facing bedrooms can become living rooms, while south

facing living areas can become bedrooms. Very often this can
be done without increasing the scale of the renovations, thus
providing great benefit at effectively no cost.
2. Turn the bricks around to add thermal mass:

3. Add a concrete floor for more thermal mass:

Many houses have raised timber floors, which have no
thermal mass. This floor type is quite appropriate in
many situations, such as sloping sites and in pole frame
construction. But there are often easy opportunities to add
useful thermal mass to floors when renovating.
This technique should be used where solar access is
already available, or made available by turning the house
around as described above.
Most timber floors are of the conventional bearers and
joist construction, where the bearers are supported on
brick piers or stumps, and these in turn support close
spaced floor joists, on which the timber flooring sits. The
bearers and joists can be cut, leaving a series of solid
blocks supporting the wall frame above.
A suspended concrete slab can be put in place of this
original structure, supported on the original piers or
stumps, using steel lintels or beams as bearers. As with
most structural changes and concrete slabs, an engineer
will usually be required to certify the details. [See:
Alteration Northern Sydney]

Weatherboards

The bricks have high thermal mass, but the outside of a

wall is not the ideal place to locate thermal mass.
Reverse Brick Veneer (RBV) is a building system which
places thermal mass (the brick skin) on the inside of the
wall frame. The highly insulated wall frame protects the
thermal mass from external temperature extremes.

Suspended
concrete slab

Original
floor level
Existing floor
joist cut away

Permanent
formwork and
reinforcement

New beams

Existing brick
supporting
wall and
engaged piers

It is often a simple matter to add thermal mass to timber

framed structures, by adding an internal skin of brickwork.
Most houses are brick veneer they have a light timber
wall frame clad in a non-load bearing brick skin, or
veneer. The bricks are effectively doing the same job as
weatherboards.

wall
frame

Existing
support
piers

wall
frame

Brick
veneer

suspended
concrete slab

Permanent
formwork and
reinforcement

Steel angle bolted to

existing bearer to support
slab (refer to engineer)
Existing
support
piers

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4. Double glaze existing windows:
If the windows do not need replacing for other
reasons, they can be double glazed in-situ quite
effectively and economically by adding a second
pane of suitable glass to the existing window sash
or frame.

As houses have become bigger, with multiple living areas,

open plan design has allowed very large areas to lose
thermal control and acoustic separation.
In most climates in Australia a very open plan layout is
not advisable. It is only ideal in warm humid climates,
where it facilitates a high degree of cross-ventilation

The previous diagram shows one method of double glazing

older timber frames, but the principle can be applied to
aluminium frames as well.

Adding walls and doors to group areas with similar heating

needs into separate zones allows spaces to be heated
separately, reducing energy bills.

It is important to remove humidity from the air gap, which

can be done by adding a small quantity of dessicant when
the new glazing is fitted, or fitting the glazing during a
period of very low humidity (20% or less). [See: Glazing
Overview]

For example, more commonly used areas like living rooms

can be heated separately without the heat dissipating to
other areas of the house. This saves the expense of having
to heat the whole house.

Double glaze existing window sash

Create new
rebate with
router

Zoning the floor plan in such a way also allows different

family members and their friends to enjoy their often loud
activities without disturbing the whole house.

Existing glass

ADDITIONAL KEY REFERENCES

BDP Environmental Design Guide, RAIA
existing sash/frame section

New glazing
bead

New glass

Energy Efficient Housing Manual, Sustainable Energy

Authority of Victoria
AMCORD, Commonwealth Department of Housing
& Regional Development
Warm House, Cool House, Inspirational designs for low
energy housing; Hollo, N. Choice Books. 1995
Sunshine & Shade in Australasia, Phillips, R.O National
Building & Technology Centre,1987.

Existing
glass

12mm
air gap
modified sash/frame section

Site Planning in Australia, King, Rudder Prasad, Ballinger 1996

Australian Earth-Covered Buildings, Baggs, S.A. et al. 1991,
NSW University Press,Kensington.
Low Energy Buildings in Australia, Baverstock, G. and Paolino, S.
1986, Graphic Systems, Western Australia.

5. Zone areas with similar heating needs:

Most houses built since the 1980s are open plan, with
no walls or divisions between living areas. The idea first
started when kitchens were opened up to adjacent eating
areas, which was useful.

Energy Efficient Australian Housing, Ballinger,J. et al. 1992,

2nd. Edition, AGPS, Canberra.
Energy Efficient Building Design Resource Book, Willrath, H.
1992 (reprint 2000); Brisbane Institute of TAFE.

Principal author: Chris Reardon Contributing authors: Max Mosher & Dick Clarke