Halo ODST Armor Arms Part 3 of 5 of ODST Armor
Halo ODST Armor Arms Part 3 of 5 of ODST Armor
Halo ODST Armor Arms Part 3 of 5 of ODST Armor
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Table of Contents
Halo ODST Armor: Arms - Part 3 of 5 of ODST Armor Build . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Step 3: Scale and Pep: Print, Cut, Fold, Glue, Cut, Fold, Glue, Cut... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Author:vv_767 ODST
I like making stuff when I have the time. But It is soooo hard to find TIME...
Image Notes
1. Pattern printed and ready for cutting.
2. Some parts cut and ready for folding and glueing.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. resin
Image Notes
1. The whole thing is lightly misted with black to dull out the silver.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Get used to this program.
Image Notes
1. Upper arm armor
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. I like using cloth instead of mat.
Image Notes
1. get the "Gold" stuff. It sands better. Get the largest tub you can afford.
Image Notes
1. Taste and smells better that ketchup or mustard.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Step 3: Scale and Pep: Print, Cut, Fold, Glue, Cut, Fold, Glue, Cut...
You know the deal already by now. If not then that means you did not read/do Part 1 (helmet) or Part 2 (torso). Do those first.
As before, scale the part according to your perticular height and build. Pep it and try it on. Pep one arm only first to make sure size is good. Once size is confirmed print
and pep the other arm.
Fortunately, Part 3 does not have a lot of parts. We have four major pieces L/R upper arm and L/R gaunlet.
Using Elmers glue just like before. Watching TV on the couch and cutting, folding, gluing...
Image Notes
1. Pattern printed and ready for cutting.
2. Some parts cut and ready for folding and glueing.
Image Notes
1. Fold lines are scored with a ballpoint pen.
2. I am only using one color pen, so all my valley folds are marked with an "X"
3. kitchen cutting board.
Image Notes
1. Valley fold.
2. Mountain fold.
3. Elmer's Glue
Image Notes
1. All glued up.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. One arm done and ready for Fiberglass resin.
2. Got at wal-***t for 10 dollars. Wear a respirator.
Image Notes
1. This upper arm has a cured layer of fiberglass resin
2. This arm is just paper.
Image Notes
1. resin
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Part sitting on a stick
Image Notes
1. Stick.
2. cardboard box.
Image Notes
1. Resin applied to both pieces. Let cure for 3 hours
2. Other arm has casting resin poured and cured already. Gave it another layer of
polyester resin too.
Image Notes
1. Breastplate
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Part B
2. Part A
3. Method 3 - casting resin.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Part that has been prepared by having the other side coated with fiberglass
resin
2. fiberglass resin soaked through the paper
Image Notes
1. Casting resin poured, spread, and cured.
Image Notes
1. Casting resin spilled and hardened on the front of the model. It is messy and
uneven, this is why it is not used on the front of the armor, just the backing.
Image Notes
1. An illustration of how fast casting resin cures. Liquid one second, solid the
next second.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Look! No hands!!!!!!!
Step 7: Bondo
As with the Helmet and the Torso, Bondo is used to make the parts smooth and tough on the outside.
Sand all the pieces with medium grit sand paper. This will give the bondo something to grab onto. Brush off the pieces to remove sanding dust.
For the shoulders, just one or two layers of bondo was applied to remove low spots. Most of the surfaces are flat, so thin layers of bondo was enough to get a good
degree of flat, even surface. Be sure not to cover up the details. The less we need to sand the better.
Parts of the shoulder are raised. The Rondo/Mud technique is used to create the raised areas.
For the guantlet, a thicker layer of bondo will be necessary. The gauntlet is rounded and no matter how good the model and the pep unfold is, there will always be some
parts that are too angular. The only way to remove these angular areas is to lay up layers of bondo and sand it into the shape we need. Three to four layers of bondo will
need to be applied with lots of sanding and shaping done between layers. Take your time on the gauntlets. Making the gauntlets will probably take as long as making the
helmet.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Mud / Rondo. About 1/8" of an inch thick.
2. Two very thin layers of bondo to smooth out the surface.
3. Filler primer
Image Notes
1. Rondo
2. Rondo sanded flat, even and shaped. Then filler primer was used to cover up
the rest of the flaws.
3. Mouse sander made quick work of the rondo making it flat and even.
Image Notes
1. Filler Primer
Step 9: Painting
Once all the detail work is done it is time to paint. Brush the parts with a stiff brush to remove bondo dust. Sand all the surfaces with 300 grit paper.
Paint all the parts with 2-3 thin layers of primer. Sand with 600 grit sand paper. Brush all the parts with a stiff brush to remove primer dust.
Now, are you a seasoned, battle-hardened ODST? Or did the veterans paint a big, bright, red cherry on your helmet? If you are a seasoned warrior, then in places where
you want scrapes, chipped paint, dents, etc spray with silver paint. Let the paint dry and buff the silver. Lightly "dust" the silver with black paint to "age" it. This means
hold the spray paint farther than normal and give the part a quick mist of paint.
Mask off the silver areas with condiment or desert of your choice (I normally use left over pudding). make the patern random.
If you are "cherry" skip the silver and dessert.
Paint the pieces with your choice of colors. 2-3 thin, even layers. Let each layer dry for 10 minutes before adding the next layer. After the final layer, let the parts dry for a
couple of hours.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
If your armor is battle scarred, wipe down everything with a damp rag to remove the paint over the "masking". Rinse the rag often or your armor will smell like food. If the
silver areas are too shiny, dust the general area with black paint again.
If the armor is supposed to be new, buff the armor with a dry, soft cloth.
Spray the armor with a protective clear coat.
Image Notes
1. Four parts with three layers of filler primer and sanded smooth
Image Notes
1. Metalic Silver
Image Notes
1. Spots of silver where there are imperfections in the Bondo
2. Spots of silver where there are imperfection in the Bondo
3. Spots of silver on "high wear" areas.
Image Notes
1. Time for a dessert break
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
Image Notes
1. Yum! All Gone!
Image Notes
1. Pudding on the chipped areas.
Image Notes
1. 99 cent flat black.
Image Notes
1. 2 hours later, wiped down all the pieces with a wet rag.
2. Black paint came off easy because of pudding. Silver showing.
Image Notes
1. Smells a little like chocolate...
Image Notes
1. The whole thing is lightly misted with black to dull out the silver.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/
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asd4 says:
how do you such good folds and put them together so well
http://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Arms-Part-3-of-5-of-ODST-Armor-/