Aion Refractor Centaur Documentation
Aion Refractor Centaur Documentation
Aion Refractor Centaur Documentation
C2
Parts
Resistors
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
R6
R7
R8
R9
R10
R11
R12
R13
R15
R16
R17
R18
R19
R20
R21
R22
R23
R24
R25
R26
R27
R28
R29
R30
LEDR
10k
1M
100k
560R
5k1
10k
1k5 1/8w
1k5
1k 1/8w
2k
15k
422k
1k 1/8w
22k
47k 1/8w
27k
12k
15k
392k
1k8
100k
4k7 1/8w
100k 1/8w
560R
68k 1/8w 1
68k 1/8w 1
100k 1
27k
27k 1/8w
4k7
Capacitors
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
C6
C7
C8
C9
C10
C11
C12
C13
C14
C15
C16
C17
C18
C19
C20
C21
C22
100n
4u7 electro
100n
68n
68n
390n
82n
390pF MLCC
1uF film
1uF film
2n2
27n
820pF MLCC
3n9
4u7 electro
1uF tantalum
47uF electro
47uF electro
1uF electro
1uF electro
1uF electro
1uF electro
Semiconductors
IC1
IC2
IC3
D1, D2
D3, D4
Z1
LED
TL072
TL072
TC1044SCPA2
Ge3
1N4002
1N47422
5MM
Potentiometers
Treble
Output
Gain
10kB
10kB
100kB dual
Build Notes
Due to space constraints, a number of resistors are listed above as 1/8w. This is only because of the available
space on the boardyou can still use 1/4w resistors if you stand them up on end.
These resistors are wired off-board and are not found on the PCB itself. See wiring diagram further down.
Note that these three resistors are not shown in the schematic.
Can use a MAX1044 as well, but I recommend the TC due to the higher maximum voltage. If using a
MAX1044, use a 1N4739 for Z1 to keep the voltage below the MAX1044s max voltage.
The original uses germaniums of an unknown type. But germanium diodes have such wild ranges that even
if the part number was known, it wouldnt necessarily mean that another of the same name would sound the
same. What is known is that the Centaurs diodes have been measured at around 0.35v forward voltage. Ive
had pretty good luck getting this value with the 1N270 from Tayda Electronics, but you may want to order 5 or
10 and then measure them to find the ones that are closest to 0.35v.
Keith Vonderhulls from Build Your Own Clone did some extensive testing of different diodes and found that
Russian D9E diodes were an exact sonic match. (D9B, D9D, D9J, D9K and D9L are equivalents and can
usually be found cheaper.) Many people have tried this diode since then and agreed that its very, very good.
Its unlikely that the real Centaur unit uses this exact diode, but its the closest that the DIY scene has gotten.
However, a lot of people have used other types of diodes and found that they preferred them over standard
germaniums. One good one that is often tried is the BAT41. Others have reported really good results with the
OA1160, which are obscure but available from pedalhackerelectronics.com.
Part
Original
Silver Pony
Effect
R10
R17
R18
R21, R23
C13
2k
27k
12k
1k8 / 4k7
820pF
47R
10k
4k7
4k7 / 1k8
560pF
More gain
Increased volume & treble for the dry signal
(along with R17 change) Better wet/dry ratio
Slight change in range of Tone knob
Slight increase in overall brightness
Schematic
Build Order
When putting together the PCB, its recommended that you do not yet solder any of the enclosure-mounted
control components (pots and switches) to the board. Instead, follow this build order:
1. Attach the audio jacks, DC jack and footswitch to the enclosure.
2. Firmly attach the pots and switches to the enclosure, taking care that they are aligned and straight.
3. Push the LED1 into the hole in the enclosure with the leads sticking straight up, ensuring that the flat side
is oriented according to the silkscreen on the PCB.
4. Fit the PCB onto all the control components, including the leads of the LED. If it doesnt fit, or if you need
to bend things more than you think you should, double-check the alignment of the pots and switches.
5. Once you feel good about everything, solder them from the top2 as the last step before wiring. This way
there is no stress on the solder joints from slight misalignments that do not fit the drilled holes. You can
still take it out easily if the build needs to be debugged, but now the PCB is custom-fit to that particular
enclosure.
6. Wire everything according to the wiring diagram on the last page.
For the LED: You can use a bezel if youd like, but generally its easier just to drill the proper size of hole
and push the LED through so it fits snugly. If you solder it directly to the PCB, itll stay put even if the hole is
slightly too big. Make absolutely sure the LED is oriented correctly (the flat side matches the silk screen) before
soldering, as itll be a pain to fix later! After its soldered, clip off the excess length of the leads.
1
Note on soldering the toggle switch(es): It will require a good amount of solder to fill the pads. Try to be as
quick as possible to avoid melting the lugs, and be prepared to feed a lot of solder as soon as the solder starts
to melt. I recommend waiting 20-30 seconds between soldering each lug to give it time to cool down.
Sockets
Since double-sided boards can be very frustrating to desolder, especially components with more than 2 leads,
it is recommended to use sockets for all transistors and ICs. It may save you a lot of headaches later on.
Hammond 1590B
(bottom/inside view)
Parts Used
Switchcraft #111A enclosed jacks
Kobiconn-style DC jack with internal nut
+9V
SLEEVE
TIP
TIP
R26
R27
R28
License / Usage
No direct support is offered for these PCBs beyond the provided documentation. It is assumed that you
have at least some experience building pedals before starting one of these. Replacements and refunds will not
be offered unless it can be shown that the circuit or documentation are in error. I have in good faith tested all of
these circuits. However, I have not necessarily tested every listed modification or variation. These are offered
only as suggestions based on the experience and opinions of others.
No bulk pricing or discounting is offered. No attribution is necessary, though a link back is always greatly
appreciated. The only usage restrictions are that (1) you cannot resell the PCB as part of a kit, and (2) you
cannot goop the circuit, scratch off the screenprint, or otherwise obfuscate the circuit to disguise its
source. (In other words: you dont have to go out of your way to advertise that you use these PCBs, but please
dont go out of your way to hide it. The guitar effects pedal industry needs more transparency, not less!)