Ireland 8 County Kilkenny - v1 - m56577569830517624
Ireland 8 County Kilkenny - v1 - m56577569830517624
Ireland 8 County Kilkenny - v1 - m56577569830517624
322
lonelyplanet.com
For many, County Kilkenny is all that they hope for in Ireland. Its a place of rolling green
hills where youll soon run out of adjectives for green. Tiny roads wander the valleys beside
swirling rivers and moss-covered stone walls. Relics of centuries of Irish religious history dot
the landscape as if part of one great beautiful design.
Wanderers and ramblers are rewarded by characterful pubs and exquisite restaurants
scattered across the countryside, seemingly placed to reward those willing to take the road
less travelled. Shamrock-cute Inistioge may be star of many a movie, but its the real deal,
and youll soon find your own rhythm among the tidy shop fronts, mannered square and
surging River Nore.
Perhaps Kilkennys beauty and its inherent reward of discovery is why so many artists and
craftspeople make their home in the county. In towns like Bennettsbridge and Thomastown,
youll find wonderfully skilled people busy creating in their studios. Or maybe theyre just
inspired by Kilkennys pride itself, its namesake city.
An enduring gift of the Normans, Kilkenny city lures visitors by the score who find it hard
to escape its pleasures. Medieval alleys wind among its castle, cathedral and ruined abbeys.
But its no static postcard an alluring mix of superb restaurants, beguiling pubs and artisan
vendors keeps things dynamic.
From bucolic delights to citified fun, Kilkenny is a dream.
HIGHLIGHTS
Consumption Enjoying bounteous food and
Kilkenny
Bennettsbridge
Graiguenamanagh
Thomastown
Jerpoint Abbey
POPULATION: 75,500
AREA: 1274 SQ KM
Inistioge
KILKENNY CITY
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
At the junction of several major highways,
Kilkenny straddles the River Nore, which
COUNTY KILKENNY
COUNTY KILKENNY
County Kilkenny
K I L K E N N Y C I T Y H i s t o r y 323
324 K I L K E N N Y C I T Y C o u n t y K i l k e n n y
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0
COUNTY KILKENNY
10 km
6 miles
Timahoe
To Portlaoise
(12km)
N7
Borrisin-Ossory
Kilkea
KILDARE
rB
R426
arrow
Old
Town
LAOIS
e
Riv
N8
Abbeyleix
N78
R430
R433
N80
To Dublin
(56km)
Clogh
COUNTY KILKENNY
Durrow
N9
Killeshin
R426
Carlow
flows through much of the county. St Canices Cathedral sits on the northern bank of
the River Bregagh (a tributary of the Nore) to
the north of the town centre outside the town
walls. Kilkennys main thoroughfare, Parliament and High Sts, runs southeast from the
cathedral. Kilkenny Castle, on the banks of the
River Nore, dominates the towns southern
side. John St is the main road on the east side
of the River Nore and links up with Dublin
Rd at MacDonagh train station with its vast
new shopping mall.
N80
Cullahill
INFORMATION
Castlecomer
N8
Bookshops
N78
Ballyragget
Swifte's
Heath
Freshford
CARLOW
Ri
ve
r
N77
Leighlinbridge
R693
N9
9
Urlingford
Dunmore Cave
Bagenalstown
Hi
N10
R700
Gowran
r
No
Ballycallan
River
v
lie
Borris
Ri
Nore View
Folk Museum
Bennettsbridge
Dungarvan
Burnchurch
Nore Valley
Camping &
Caravan Park
Tullaherin
Kilfane
R703
N10
Kilree Round
Tower &
High Cross
Ballyhale
TIPPERARY
Jerpoint
Abbey
St
Mullins
Brandon
Hill
(516m)
Inistioge
R700
Le
y
lls
Hi
Suir
N9
s
in
ay
te r W
ut
So
N30
New
Ross
ole
N24
River
R704
To Wexford
(28km)
Piltown
Mullinavat
Dunganstown
N24
N25
WEXFORD
Comeragh
Mountains
WATERFORD
N25
SIGHTS
Ri N9
ve
rS
uir
Kilkenny Castle
On a lovely bend of the Nore stands Kilkenny
Castle (%772 1450; www.heritageireland.ie; adult/child
Waterford
Monavullagh
Mountains
Medical Services
Tourist Information
Kilkieran
High
Crosses
Carrickon-Suir
Money
Bo
N76
Laundry
The
Rower
R697
N76
h9am-9pm)
Thomastown
Stonyford
Callan
Famine
Graveyard
Graiguenamanagh
Kells
Callan
arrow
er
R697
N76
Killenaule
B
ver
Ki
ng
s Riv
Ahenny
High
Crosses
Internet Access
Kilkenny
da
r
ea
Fethard
Emergency
Paulstown
lls
gh
Waterford
Harbour
5.30/2.10; h9.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, 10.30am-12.45pm & 25pm Oct-Mar, 10.30am-5pm Apr & May), one of Irelands
K I L K E N N Y C I T Y I n f o r m a t i o n 325
COUNTY KILKENNY
River Nore
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326 K I L K E N N Y C I T Y K i l k e n n y
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0
KILKENNY
INFORMATION
Bretts Launderette..........................1
Caf Net........................................2
E-centre..........................................3
Kilkenny Book Centre.....................4
Police Station.................................5
Sam McCauley Pharmacy...............6
Tourist Office.................................7
COUNTY KILKENNY
EATING
Caf Sol.......................................35 B5
Chez Pierre................................(see 16)
Dunnes Stores..............................36 B5
Edward Langton's......................(see 32)
Flva............................................37 B5
Gourmet Store.............................38 B4
Kilkenny Design Centre Caf........39 B5
Kyteler's Inn.................................40 B4
Lacken House..............................41 D5
To St Lukes
Hospital (5km)
ENTERTAINMENT
James Park...................................52
Kilkenny Cineplex........................53
Morrisey's Club............................54
Morrison's Bar..............................55
O'Faolain's..................................56
Watergate Theatre.......................57
A3
A5
B4
B5
C4
B4
SHOPPING
Kilkenny Design Centre................58 B5
Mac Donagh Junction..................59 C4
Market Cross................................60 B5
Rd
er
St
St
id g
29
DRINKING
Ana Conda................................(see 48)
Hibernian Bar.............................(see 55)
John Cleere.................................. 48 A4
O'Riada........................................49 B4
Pumphouse..................................50 B4
Tynan's Bridge House...................51 B5
om
r
Vica
r
nsb
ee
Gr
e ns
Grreidge
B
ec
stl
52
B5
B4
B5
B5
B4
B5
TRANSPORT
Buggys Coaches Stop...................61 B5
JJ Wall & Son............................... 62 C4
McDonagh Bus Station................63 C4
Ca
Rd
w
Ne
To N77; N78;
Dunmore Cave (4km);
Castlecomer (16km);
Dublin (100km)
26
Lautrecs Brasserie....................... 42
Marble City Bar............................43
Pordylos.......................................44
Rinuccini.......................................45
The Pantry...................................46
Zuni.............................................47
33
18
t
l S
ne l
St
47
on d
e R
d
St
o
rm
e
nd
Ne
O rm
15
23
11
24
t
Patrick S
al
W
32
62
Maudli
n St
14
Du
blin
e
r Nor
Rive
27
Inn
55
Joh
n
St
St
l Rd
Gao
20
22 ran
42
's
37
St
30
St
51
7
3
4
61 Th
e
Pa
rad
2
45 39 e
ki
Stephen St
ary
Fri
63
McDonagh
Train Station
Rose
St
ms
llia
Wi 34
35
53
36
St
St
40
High
St
es
10
y
's Qua
John
uay
n's Q
ema
Bat
bb
ey
e
Ki
St
J am
m
12
38
43
46
6 44
60
P ar
kha
Kic
St
St
ill
m
Dominic St
28
59
56
16
25
54
9 49
St
21
17
31
To
ne
St
48
50
a el
Mic h
Bl
ac
k
57
St
ent
liam
Par
h
ag
eg
River Br
W
olf
e
19
sh
to
wn
een
Butts Gr
an
De
I ri
St
13
58
Ca
stl
Rd
To N76;
Ballycallan (8km);
Callan (16km);
Cork (120km)
lle
Co
ge
Rd
To N10; R697;
Waterford (44km)
St
41
St Canices Cathedral
Soaring over the north end of the centre is
Irelands second-largest medieval cathedral
(after St Patricks in Dublin), St Canices Cathedral (%776 4971; www.stcanicescathedral.ie; St Canices
Pl; adult/child 4/3; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm
Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Sat, 2-4pm Sun OctMar). This Gothic edifice with its iconic round
K I L K E N N Y C I T Y S i g h t s 327
Rothe House
The best surviving example of a 16th-century
merchants house in Ireland is Rothe House
(%772 2893; www.rothehouse.com; Parliament St; adult/
child 4/3, combo tickets with the cathedral are available;
h 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 3-5pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10.304.30pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar). The fine Tudor house
COUNTY KILKENNY
SLEEPING
Butler Court..................................23 B5
Butler House.................................24 B5
Celtic House.................................25 B4
Cleere's B&B.................................26 B3
Daley's B&B.................................27 C5
Darcy's Guest House....................28 A5
Kilford Arms Hotel.....................(see 56)
Kilkenny Inn Hotel........................29 A3
Kilkenny River Court.....................30 B5
Kilkenny Tourist Hostel.................31 B4
Lacken House............................(see 41)
Langton House Hotel...................32 C4
Macgabhainn's Hostel..................33 A3
Rafter Dempsey's.........................34 B5
C4
B5
B5
B5
A5
B5
B5
300 m
0.2 miles
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328 K I L K E N N Y C I T Y T o u r s
Other Sights
Shee Alms House, on Rose Inn St, was built in
sturdy local stone in 1582 by local benefactor Sir Richard Shee and his wife to provide
help for the poor. It continued as a hospital
until 1740 but now houses the tourist office. The Tholsel, or City Hall, on High St
was built in 1761 on the spot where Dame
Alice Kytelers maid, Petronella, was burned
at the stake in 1324.
Next to the Tholsel is Butter Slip, a narrow and dark walkway that connects High
St with Low Lane (now St Kierans St). It
was built in 1616 and once was lined with
the stalls of butter vendors. With its arched
entry and stone steps, Butter Slip is by far
the most picturesque of Kilkennys many
narrow medieval corridors.
TOURS
Central Kilkenny city is small and well suited
to comprehensive walking tours.
Tynan Tours (%087 265 1745; adult/student 6/5.50;
hnumerous times daily mid-MarOct) conducts hourlong walking tours that meander through Kilkennys narrow lanes, steps and pedestrian
passageways. Smart, witty guides recount the
intriguing stories these buildings might tell if
they could talk. Tours may also be offered in
the off season; ask about a group rate if youre
travelling with friends.
SLEEPING
If youre arriving in town with no room
booked (an unwise move at weekends when
rates soar and in summer), the tourist office
runs an efficient accommodation booking
service costing 4.
Budget
Tree Grove Caravan & Camping Park (%777 0302;
www.treegrovecamping.com; New Ross Rd; camp sites per
person from 7) This camping ground in a small
K I L K E N N Y C I T Y S l e e p i n g 329
Midrange
Cleeres B&B (%772 1210; [email protected]; New
Rd; r 45-70; p) A short walk to town, this
B&B is very straight-forward: the rooms are
clean and comfy and have TVs.
Rafter Dempseys (%772 2970; www.accommodation
kilkenny.com; 4 Friary St; r 45-130) Theres basic
B&B accommodation in 16 rooms above
a simple pub of the same name just off
High St. The colour scheme can best be
described as dogs breakfast but you may
not notice as you squint to see the tiny
ceiling-mounted TVs.
oCeltic House (%776 2249; john376@gofree
.indigo.ie; 18 Michael St; r 50-80; p) Angela Byrne
is literally Irelands goodwill ambassador
to the world and she extends a wonderful
welcome to guests at this clean-as-a-whistle
B&B. Rooms are bright, some have sky-lit
bathrooms, others have views of the castle.
When not charming the masses, Angela is
a landscape painter, her works adorn many
a wall here.
Darcys Guest House (%777 0219, 777 0087; James
St; r 50-90; p) This cheery, yellow stucco
BAD BREW
If you smell something funny in the air, it may be the Budweiser being brewed under licence in
the Smithwick Brewery (%772 1014; Parliament St). Now owned by drinks giant Diageo (Guinness,
Harp and lots of spirits), the brewery is no longer the civic icon it once was. The tours once
enjoyed by generations are now a thing of the past, in their place are sporadic summertime
showings of a promotional video. Enjoy! Whats worse is that right in the middle of the complex
is St Francis Abbey, which was founded by William Marshall in 1232, but desecrated first by
Cromwell in 1650 and then by Diageo. Its an intriguing structure but its now off limits. When
we asked at the gate to see this amazing relic, the guard told us in no uncertain terms to go
look at one of the other old places in town.
Note that Smithwicks Irish Ale is also known as Kilkenny Ale, the name its sold under at scores
of fake Irish bars in Europe. Locally, most people still drink its corporate cousin, Guinness.
COUNTY KILKENNY
COUNTY KILKENNY
Black Abbey
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house is right off High St. Flower boxes enliven the views from the 11 rooms, which
have cable TV and a muted dcor that complements the exterior.
Kilford Arms Hotel (%776 1018; www.kilfordarms
.ie; John St; r 60-160; pi) A stuffed and rather
mangy 150-year-old Bengal tiger mounted in
the lobby sets the tone at this slightly offbeat
hotel. While the attitude and authority of the
feline is faded, youll find vibrant colour and
flair in the 53 rooms.
Butler Court (%776 1178; www.butlercourt.com;
Patrick St; r 70-130; i) Where the locals stash
their guests, this friendly guesthouse has 10
nicely appointed rooms opening onto a restful courtyard. Breakfasts are continental and
theres a fridge in every room.
Kilkenny Inn Hotel (%777 2828; www.kilkennyinn
.com; 15-16 Vicar St; r 70-150; pi) A modern 30room hotel right below the cathedral, this
friendly place has broadband internet in the
slightly small rooms. The dcor is a stylish
mix of light woods and pastels.
Lacken House (%776 1085; www.lackenhouse.ie;
Dublin Rd; r 95-170; pi) Just out of town, this
beautiful 10-room, Victorian-era guesthouse
exudes grace and charm. Theres a superb
breakfast and the restaurant is highly regarded. The ornate rooms have free wi-fi and
its only a 10-minute walk to the centre.
Top End
Langton House Hotel (%776 5133; www.langtons.ie; 69
John St; r 80-200; pi) Perched atop the cavernous public spaces of this Kilkenny landmark
are 30 rooms of varying standard. Although
the building is dated, the dcor has been updated with rather dark browns and beiges. The
bathrooms are spotless and large, although the
tubs have a podlike shower contraption that
will recall the Rock n Roll Creation routine
from This is Spinal Tap.
Kilkenny River Court (%772 3388; www.kilrivercourt
.com; John St; r per person from 110; pi) Along the
Nore, by the bridge, this hotel has 90 modern rooms in a purpose-built wing fronted
by a courtyard. Theres free wi-fi and decent
views from some rooms. The riverside terrace is a choice spot for a drink when the
weathers fine.
Butler House (%772 2828; www.butler.ie; 16 Patrick
St; r 125-250; pi) Once home of the earls
of Ormonde (who built the nearby castle),
this gracious townhouse is now a luxurious
hotel with aristocratic trappings including
EATING
Theres a good range of choices in Kilkenny
but note that at quiet times, places often close
by 8.30pm. Picnickers can pick up groceries from Dunnes Stores (%776 1756; St Keirans
St; h24hr).
Cafs
St Keirans St has a number of continentalstyle cafs with outdoor tables.
Gourmet Store (%777 1727; 56 High St; sandwiches 4;
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) In this crowded little deli,
takeaway sandwiches are assembled from
choice, imported meats and cheeses (plus a
few top-notch locals).
Chez Pierre (%776 4655; 17 Parliament St; mains 38; h10am-5pm) Its all brightness and yellow
skies at this sunny-sweet French caf, next
to Rothe House. The menu offers an assortment of sandwiches, soups and sweets you can
enjoy at timeless, simple wooden tables.
The Pantry (%776 2250; St Keirans St; mains 6-12;
h8am-6pm) Break soda bread (well at least
butter it up) and sip a range of coffees at this
old-fashioned bakery and tearoom. Those filling, hot meals of your youth are here, ready
and waiting.
Restaurants
oKilkenny Design Centre Caf (%772 2118;
Castle Yard; meals 6-12; h10am-7pm) Upstairs from
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K I L K E N N Y C I T Y D r i n k i n g 331
DRINKING
There are a few places that do after-hours
lock-ins on weekends.
Tynans Bridge House (%772 1291; St Johns Bridge)
Conversation is generally audible in this grand
old Georgian pub, the best trad bar in town.
The 300-year-old building has settled a bit
over the years, but then so have many of the
customers. Survey the craic from the tables in
front or settle out back in the of all things
olive-tree festooned patio.
ORiada (27 Parliament St) The lowest-key bar
in Kilkenny. The only dashes of flash are an
electric light and a TV set. The joint fills up
and gets pretty lively when theres a game on
the tube, but most of the time you can ponder
your pint and strike up a conversation with
anyone including yourself.
Pumphouse (%776 3924; 26 Parliament St) With
live rock groups like Kopek many nights a
week, the Pumphouse is one of Kilkennys
livelier bars. When theres no band, music
comes from a free jukebox that doesnt have
a bad song on it. Its a large place with pool
tables and big TVs. Smokers hang out on
the roof.
Ana Conda (%777 1657; Parliament St) A frequent winner in local polls, locals enjoy the
tiled floors, comfy banquettes, Friday night
cilidh sessions and Saturday night rock
shows. The covered beer garden is popular
among smokers.
John Cleere (%776 2573; 22 Parliament St) One of
Kilkennys best venues for live music, this long
bar has blues, jazz and rock, including local
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Across The Parade from Kilkenny Castle are the elegant former castle stables (1760), which have
been extensively renovated. Besides the National Craft Gallery (p328), the buildings are home to
a number of local craftspeople, such as the voluble A Byrne, a silversmith.
The front building holds gallerylike shops of the Kilkenny Design Centre (%772 2118; www
.kilkennydesign.com; Castle Yard), where you can find all manner of top-end Irish crafts and artwork for
sale. From County Kilkenny, look for the spongeware pottery of Nicholas Moss, the handblown
crystal of Jerpoint Glass, the luscious leather bags of Chesneau Leathers and the handmade
beads of All That Glistens. Overall there are at least 130 fulltime craftspeople and artists working
commercially in the county, one of the highest concentrations in Ireland. Reasons for this vary,
but the nexus of culture afforded by high-brow Kilkenny is a major factor. Bennettsbridge and
Thomastown are two other good places for top quality crafts.
Morriseys Club (%777 0555; 40 Parliament St; admission 8; h8pm-late Thu-Sun) In a basement a
ENTERTAINMENT
Sport
SHOPPING
Nightclubs
Kilkenny is the regional hub of clubbing;
check to see whats hot now.
OFaolains (%776 1018; Kilford Arms Hotel, John St;
admission 8-12) The club itself is an attraction:
its built on three levels around an old stone
church that was brought over from Wales.
There are live DJs most nights, starting around
10.30pm and weekend club nights.
Morrisons Bar (% 777 1888; 1 Ormonde St;
h5pm-1am) In the cellar of the Hibernian
Hotel theres this stylish hideaway, with its
atmospheric lighting and snazzy belle poque
dcor. DJs spin an eclectic mix for an upmarket crowd that actually cares about getting spilled on.
Bus
Bus ireann (%776 4933; www.buseireann.ie) operates from a shelter about 200m east of John
St adjacent to the train station which also
sells tickets. Bus ireann also picks up and
drops off passengers at the very central Caf
Net on St Patricks St. There are services to
Train
The train station (%772 2024) has been shoved
200m back from John St to make way for the
vast new mall. Kilkenny sees five trains daily
for Dublin (22, 1 hours) and Waterford
(9.80, 50 minutes).
GETTING AROUND
There are large parking lots and garages off
both sides of High St. Other lots are scattered
in all areas.
JJ Wall & Son (%772 1236; 86 Maudlin St) rents out
bikes at 20 per day. The circuit around Kells,
Inistioge, Jerpoint Abbey and Kilfane makes
a fine days ride. It also sells lawn mowers if
youve finally had enough of all that green.
For a cab, call Dannys Taxis (%223 8887).
CENTRAL KILKENNY
The area south and most notably southeast
of Kilkenny city is laced with country roads
and dotted with cute villages overlooking the
rich, green Barrow and Nore valleys. Riverside
towns like Graiguenamanagh and Inistioge
have superb scenery. This is prime walking
country, with beautiful trails running alongside the rivers and between the towns. And
in places like Bennettsbridge, you can visit
the workshops of some of the countys most
notable craftspeople.
C E N T R A L K I L K E N N Y K e l l s & A r o u n d 333
Kells Priory
This is the best sort of ruin, where visitors
can amble about as they like, whenever they
like, with no tour guides, tours, ropes or restrictions. With no hours or fees, its almost
a religious experience. At dusk on a vaguely
sunny day the old priory is simply beautiful.
Most days you stand a chance of exploring
the site alone, with only the company of
bleating sheep.
The earliest remains of this gorgeous monastic site date from the late 12th century,
while the bulk of the present ruins are from
the 15th century. In a sea of rich farmland,
a carefully restored protective wall connects
seven dwelling towers. Inside the walls are
the remains of an Augustinian abbey and the
foundations of some chapels and houses. Its
unusually well fortified for a monastery and
the heavy curtain walls hint at a troubled history. Indeed, within a single century from
1250, the abbey was twice fought over and
burned down by squabbling warlords. It went
into permanent decline beginning when it was
suppressed in 1540.
The ruins are 800m east of Kells on the
Stonyford road.
COUNTY KILKENNY
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CRAFTY KILKENNY
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and campers. Kids can caress goats, cuddle rabbits, navigate a maze and jump on
a straw bounce. There is a tearoom and
picnic area. If youre coming into Bennettsbridge from Kilkenny along the R700,
turn right just before the bridge; the park
is signposted.
Besides the caf at Nicholas Mosse, the
central Italian Affair (%770 0988; 4 Chapel St; mains
8-25; hnoon-3pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sun) has a good
menu of pizza, pasta and more. The coffee
bar is always popular.
Stonyford
On the N10, a few kilometres northwest of the
abbey and Thomastown, is the small village
of Stonyford. The local highlight, the nationally renowned Jerpoint Glass Studio (%24350;
www.jerpointglass.com), is housed here in an old
stone-walled farm building. Most days, you
can watch workers craft molten glass into
exquisite artistic and practical items.
Kilfane
One of Irelands finest Cistercian ruins, Jerpoint Abbey (%24623; www.heritageireland.ie; Hwy N9;
The village of Kilfane, 3km north of Thomastown on the N9 (Dublin road), has a small,
ruined 13th-century church and Norman tower,
50m off the road and signposted. The church
has a remarkable stone carving of Thomas de
Cantwell called the Cantwell Fada or Long
Cantwell. It depicts a tall, thin knight in detailed chain-mail armour brandishing a shield
decorated with the Cantwell coat of arms.
Kilfane Glen & Waterfall (%24558) is a pretty
spot with wooded paths winding through its
wild 6-hectare gardens, which date from the
1790s. An elaborately decorated thatched cottage is worth hiking to. Note it was closed in
2007; check for its reopening. Kilfane Glen is
2km north of town along the N9.
Gowran
Jerpoint Abbey
C E N T R A L K I L K E N N Y I n i s t i o g e 335
INISTIOGE
%056 / pop 714
COUNTY KILKENNY
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336 C E N T R A L K I L K E N N Y G r a i g u e n a m a n a g h
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GRAIGUENAMANAGH
%059 / pop 1700
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ST MULLINS
A tranquil spot about 6km downstream
from Graiguenamanagh, St Mullins (on the
County Carlow line) is good for a relaxing
getaway, a picnic, or as rewarding destination on a long walk from Graigue. The river
snakes through here in the shadow of Brandon Hill, and from it a trail winds uphill to
the ruined hulk of an old monastery surrounded by the graves of 1798 rebels. A 9thcentury Celtic cross, badly worn down over
the centuries, still stands beside the monastery. Nearby, St Molings Well is a holy well
that seems to attract spare change.
Mulvarra House (%051-424 936; www.mulvarra
.com; s/d 50/80; p) is a B&B just up the hill
from the river. Its modern and comfortable,
a good base for exploring the area and you
can partake of the body treatment centre.
NORTHERN KILKENNY
The rolling green hills of northern County
Kilkenny are perfect for leisurely drives with
the makings of a picnic stowed away in the
boot. Theres not a whole lot going on in
this part of the county, but the picturesque
towns of Ballyragget and Castlecomer are
sure to tempt the traveller to pull over for
a brief stroll. Dunmore Cave is the most
frequently visited sight in these parts, but
youll enjoy the region best by taking the
smallest roads you can find and making
your own discoveries.
DUNMORE CAVE
COUNTY KILKENNY
COUNTY KILKENNY
8655; Plas Newydd Lodge; set menu 35; h7-9.30pm WedSat) has a delightful contemporary Irish menu
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steep descent you enter caverns full of stalactites, stalagmites and columns, including the
7m Market Cross, Europes largest freestanding
stalagmite. The compulsory guided tours are
worthwhile.
Buggys Coaches (%056-444 1264) runs three to
four buses daily (3.50) from a stop in Kilkenny outside the castle.
COUNTY KILKENNY
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