Breaching

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Breaching

A part of room clearing is the ability to gain access quickly to


the rooms to be cleared. Breaching techniques vary based on
the type of construction encountered and the types of
munitions available to the breaching element. Techniques range
from simple mechanical breaching to complex, specialized
demolitions. If possible, conduct the breach to allow the team
to continue movement without waiting at the breach (entry)
point. Deception should be used to confuse the enemy as to the
location of the primary entry point. This can be achieved by
using stun grenades in an area other than the actual
breach/entry point.

Opening of Doors if not Locked


If the team knows that the door isn't locked. One of two simple
orders are used "pull and go" or "Push and go".
A closed door is considered locked in all cases when a breacher
is present, assuming the breacher has the means available to
defeat the door.
Pull and go.
When the team reaches a door Operator gives the order "pull
and go". On this one operator steps out of the stack, moves to
the the door, and pulls it open when operator signals "GO",
by nodding his head three times. This could also be done by
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operator , second man in the stack then becomes operator


.

Push and go.


This is done the same way as "pull and go" except that the door
opens inwards. In most cases operator opens the door
himself.
Experienced teams do this automatically without any
commands.
Mechanical Breaching
The mechanical breach requires increased physical exertion by
one or more soldiers using hand tools such as axes, saws,
crowbars, hooligan tools, or sledgehammers. The mechanical
breach is not a preferred primary breaching method because it
can be time-consuming and defeat the element of surprise. Use
mechanical breaching as a backup to a ballistic or explosive
breach.
Dynamic Entry gear is electrically non-conductive, features the
Sure-Grip handle system , and is resistant to 100,000 volts AC.

Dynamic Entry gear demonstration

Ballistic breach
A useful method of breaching is the shotgun ballistic breach for
forced entry of standard doors. Use a 12-gauge shotgun loaded
with buckshot or slugs to breach most standard doors quickly.
When done properly the shotgun breach requires only a few
seconds. The two standard techniques of shotgun breaching are
the doorknob breach and the hinge breach. When attempting
either technique, the gunner is announcing his presence by
using the shotgun and is completely exposed to fire through the
door. Therefore, exposure time must be minimized and the
operator must be ready to gain entry and return fire as soon
as possible. While holding the stock of the shotgun in the
pocket of his shoulder, the gunner places the muzzle tightly
against the door, and aims down at a 45-degree angle. If the
shotgun muzzle is not held tightly against the door, splatter
may occur that could affect friendly troops. Also, buckshot and
rifled slugs can over penetrate doors and may kill or wound
occupants in the room
Doorknob Breach
For the doorknob breach, the aim point is a spot halfway
between the doorknob and the frame, not at the doorknob
itself. The gunner fires two quick shots in the same location,
ensuring that the second shot is aimed as carefully as the first.
Weak locks may fly apart with the first shot, but the gunner
should always fire twice. Some locks that appear to be blown
apart have parts still connected that will delay entry. If the lock
is not defeated by the second shot, the gunner repeats the
procedure.
Hinge Breach
The hinge breach technique is performed much the same as the
doorknob breach, except the gunner aims at the hinges. He
fires three shots per hinge. The first at the middle, then at the
top and bottom He fires all shots from less than an inch away
from the hinge. Because the hinges are often hidden from view,
the hinge breach is more difficult. Regardless of which
technique the gunner uses, immediately after he fires, he kicks
the door in or pulls it out. He then pulls the shotgun barrel
sharply upward and quickly turns away from the doorway to
signal that the breach point has been cleared. This rapid
clearing of the doorway allows the following man in the fire
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team a clear shot at any enemy who may be blocking the


immediate breach site.
Only use small arms (5.56) as a ballistic breach on doorknobs
and hinges as a last resort.

Do not attempt to open the door by hand. If the door is


locked, this action will alert any combatants inside of
the room of your intentions and possibly expose the
breacher to fire through the doorway.
Explosive entry
The use of explosive charges to breach doors or walls on
buildings and aircraft is an excellent SOP. Although
unfortunately, because of a lack of training, understanding,
expertise, and the cost involved, explosive entry is not a
common standard for entry teams. The two prime advantages
of explosive method of entry MOE are the almost guaranteed
entry and the stun effect on the occupants in the room.
Everyone should be stunned to a certain degree, making it
easier to dominate and control the room. However, it is not
recommended that the breaching charge be placed on doors or
walls leading into the actual room where the hostages are
being held.
Explosive MOE has been perfected to such a degree that the
secondary fragmentation from the door and the risk of overpressure injuries to the hostages have been all but eliminated.
Explosives should only be handled by experienced bomb
technician, EOD personnel, or specially trained operators.
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Breaching charges come in several forms from factory made


linear shaped cutting charges to improvised systems made
from Detonation-Cord. All are usually command detonated with
an electrical firing system and blasting cap. During explosive
MOE training, the team must be protected with Nomex hoods
and uniforms, boots, goggles and ear muffs, entry vests and
gloves. If the door must be breached by more conventional
non-explosive methods, e.g. battering ram, boot or crow bar,
then stun grenades should be dropped through broken windows
to temporarily disorient the occupants. Always target two or
more entry points for breaching in case one is too heavily
barricaded to allow entry.
BREACHING INTERIOR WALLS AND PARTITIONS
Interior walls generally require much less explosive to create a
satisfactory breach than do exterior, load-bearing walls. An
easily fabricated silhouette charge can further reduce the
amount of explosive needed to breach plywood, Sheetrock, or
light plaster walls. It can also be used to breach wooden or
metal doors. This charge can be emplaced quickly and creates
a hole large enough for a man to move through.
(1) Tape two E-type silhouette targets, or similar stiff cardboard,
together. To make the charge easier to carry, it can be built to
fold in the middle. Rounding the corners makes the charge
easier to handle.

(2) Place detonation cord or flexible linear-shaped charge


(FLSC) around the edges of the silhouettes, leaving a 6-inch tail
for priming. Secure the cord to the silhouette using sturdy tape
(for example, "100-mph tape"). Tape several small dowels or
other materials at various places around the silhouette if using
FLSC. This provides the necessary standoff distance to ensure
the maximum shaped charge effect.
(3) Place three or four strips of heavy-duty, double-sided
contact tape on the front of the silhouette from top to bottom.
Construct a sturdy pocket for a brace stick in the appropriate
position on the back of the silhouette.
(4) Pull the covering off the double-sided tape and place the
charge against the wall at knee height, bracing it if necessary.
Prime the charge, take cover, and detonate.
DOOR-BREACHING CHARGES
Several different field-expedient charges can be used to breach
interior or exterior doors . Among these are the generalpurpose charge, flexible linear charge, and doorknob charge. All
can be made ahead of time and are simple, compact,
lightweight, and easy to place.
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CAUTION. Any time explosive charges are used to breach


doors, the knobs, locks and hinges made of steel and metal can
become lethal projectiles.
General-Purpose Charge
The general-purpose charge is the most useful preassembled
charge for breaching a door or other barrier. As its name
implies, it is useful not only for door breaching, but it can also
cut mild steel chain and destroy captured enemy equipment.
(1) Start building the general-purpose charge with a length of
detonation cord about 2 feet long. Using another length of
detonation cord, tie two Uliknots around the 2-foot long cord.
The Uliknots must have a minimum of six wraps and be loose
enough for them to slide along the main line, referred to as Uli
Slider. Trim any excess cord from the Uliknots and secure them
with tape, if necessary.
(2) Cut a block of C4 explosive to a 2-inch square. Tape one
slider knot to each side of the C4 block, leaving the length of
detonation cord free to slide through the knots.
(3) To breach a standard door, place the top loop of the charge
over the doorknob. Slide the uli knots taped to the C4 so that
the charge is tight against the knob. Prime the loose ends of
the detonation cord with a MDI firing system and detonate. To
cut mild steel chain, place the loop completely around the
chain link to form a girth hitch. Tighten the loop against the link
by sliding the Uliknots.

Rubber Band Charge


The rubber band charge is another easily fabricated lightweight
device that can be used to remove the locking mechanism or
doorknob from wooden or light metal doors, or to break a
standard-size padlock at the shackle.
(1) Cut a 10-inch piece of detonation cord and tie an overhand
knot in one end. Using another piece of detonation cord, tie a
Uliknot with at least eight wraps around the first length of cord.
Slide the Uliknot tightly up against the Overhand knot. Secure it
in place with either tape or string. Loop a strong rubber band
around the base of the Uliknot tied around the detonation cord.
Tie an Overhand knot at the other end of the cord to form a
pigtail for priming the charge.
(2) Attach the charge to the doorknob (or locking mechanism)
by putting the loose end of the rubber band around the knob.
The charge should be placed between the knob and the
doorframe. This places the explosive over the bolt that secures
the door to the frame.
Flexible Linear Charge
One of the simplest field-expedient charges for breaching
wooden doors is the flexible linear charge. It can be made in
almost any length, and it can be rolled up and carried until
needed. It is effective against hollow-core, particle-filled, and
solid wood doors. When detonated, the flexible linear charge
cuts through the door near the hinges.
(1) Lay out a length of double-sided contact tape with the
topside adhesive exposed. Place the necessary number of
strands of detonation cord down the center of the double-sided
tape, pressing them firmly in place. Military detonation cord has
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50 grains of explosives per foot and there are 7,000 grains in a


pound. Most residential doors are 80 inches tall and commercial
doors are 84 inches tall. This must be considered when
calculating the quantities of explosives, overpressure and
MSDs. For hollow-core doors, use a single strand. For particlefilled doors, use two strands, and for solid wood doors use
three. If the type doors encountered are unknown, use three
strands. One of the strands must be cut about a foot longer
than the others and should extend past the end of the doublesided tape. This forms a pigtail where the initiating system is
attached once the charge is in place.
(2) Cover the strands of detonation cord and all the exposed
portions of the double-sided tape with either sturdy single-sided
tape or another length of double-sided tape. Roll the charge,
starting at the pigtail, with the double-sided tape surface that is
to be placed against the door on the inside.
(3) At the breach site, place the charge straight up and down
against the door tightly. If the charge is too long, angle it to
best fit the door or use the excess to defeat the possibility of a
door return at the top of the door sometimes but not always
visible from the outside by exposed bolts. If it is too short, place
it so it covers at least half of the door's height. Prime and fire
the charge from the bottom.

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