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Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

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Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

Stock is essential to serious cooking. Walk into any restaurant that aspires to prepare fine cuisine and
you will undoubtedly see a large pot of stock gently bubbling somewhere in the kitchen. In French
cuisine, stock is so important that it is called "fond," which translates into "foundation." Chefs frequently
compare cooking (and culinary training) to building a house. As any architect knows, a strong
foundation, while never really seen, is of greatest importance. If the foundation is weak, what is built on
it will be unstable--especially if it is destined to be a tall and magnificent structure. Stock is similarly
crucial to fine cuisine. It is rarely seen on its own but is one of the principle foundational building blocks
of the culinary arts. If you start with a bad stock, it is impossible to make great food.
What is Stock?
Stocks are flavorful liquids produced by simmering bones, meat trimmings, vegetables and other
aromatic ingredients in water. Stocks are further categorized as white stock or brown stock. They are
used as the foundation for soups, stews and sauces.
Categories of Stocks
White Stock - it is made from the meaty bones and trim from veal, beef, poultry, some types of game,
and fish. The bones are frequently blanched in order to remove any impurities that might cloud or
discolor the finished stock. Ordinary white stock is classically prepared from veal meat and bones, with
the addition of poultry carcasses. A white beef stock (sometimes referred to as a "neutral stock") is often
prepared by first simmering the stock at higher temperature than would be used for most stocks for
several minutes. The aim is to produce a stock with a nearly neutral flavor. It is often flavored for use in
vegetable soups or bean dishes. White beef stock can contribute a significant body to these dishes, while
still allowing the flavor of the major ingredient to predominate.
Brown Stock - one of the most commonly called-for stocks in the classic and contemporary repertoire
of any kitchen is likely to be brown veal stock (fond de veau brun). Brown stocks are prepared by first
cooking meaty bones and meat trim to a deep brown color, as well as the mirepoix and a tomato
product, before they are simmered. This changes both the flavor and color of the finished stock. Brown
stocks are especially valuable in sauce cookery, as they are used as the foundation for brown sauce,
demi-glace and pan gravies.
Types of Stocks
Remouillage called the second generation stock, the word translates as a "rewetting", which is a good
way to think of the way that remouillage is made. Bones used to prepare a "primary stock" are reserved
after the first stock is strained away from the bones. The bones are then covered with water, and a
"secondary stock" is prepared. Some chefs argue that, if the first stock was made properly and simmered
for the correct amount of time, there will be little if anything left in the bones to provide either flavor or
body in the remouillage. Others feel that this second generation of stock can be used as the basis for
other broths or as the cooking liquid for braises and stews. The food being prepared will provide the
majority of the flavor in the finished sauce, and a first-rate stock can be reserved for use in dishes where
its role is more significant.
Broth (or Bouillon) - it shares many similarities with stocks. They are prepared in essentially the same
fashion. Meaty bones (or in some cases, the entire cut of meat, bird or fish) are simmered in water (or
remouillage or a prepared stock) along with a variety of vegetables and other aromatic ingredients.
Many meatless dishes are prepared with a vegetable broth. Some chefs may refer to this preparation as
a vegetable stock. Those stocks made from meat or fish bones will reach a state of clarity and body
through the extraction of proteins found in bones and meat. Vegetable broths vary greatly in the degree
of body and clarity that they may achieve.
Fumet (or Essence) - the most common fumet is one prepared by sweating fish bones along with
vegetables such as leeks, mushrooms and celery, then simmering these ingredients in water, perhaps
with the addition of a dry white wine. The end result is generally not as clear as a stock, but it is highly
flavored. Fumets and essences can be prepared from such ingredients as wild mushrooms, tomato,
celery or celery root, ginger and so forth. These essences, nothing more than highly flavored infusions
made from especially aromatic ingredients, can be used to introduce flavor to other preparations, such
as consomms or broths and a variety of "small sauces".
Estouffade - the classic formula for estouffade set down by Escoffier is virtually identical to what was
then known as a brown stock. There are some differences to note, however. Estouffade is prepared by
simmering together browned meaty veal bones, a piece of fresh or cured pork, and the requisite
vegetables and other aromatics. Contemporary kitchens tend to prepare a brown stock that does not
include pork. Today, estouffade is less widely used as a basic preparation, although it is still regarded as
a classic preparation.
Court Bouillon - a "short broth" is often prepared as the cooking liquid for fish or vegetables. The basic
components of a court bouillon include aromatic vegetables and herbs, an acid such as vinegar, wine or
lemon juice, and water. A court bouillon may be prepared as part of the cooking process, or it may be

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

prepared in large batches and used as required, in much the same manner as stocks and broths are
prepared.

How To Make White Stock?

The first step in stock making is to rinse the bones in cold water. Once rinsed,
place the bones in a large stockpot (preferably lined with stainless steel, as
aluminum can sometimes discolor certain stocks) and fill with cold water, just
enough to cover the bones by 1-2 inches.
(For this, we used chicken with meat still on the bones. Typically you
would use straight chicken bones (without meat) to keep the cost
down.)

Bring the water to a boil over moderate heat. Once the water has boiled,
reduce heat immediately so that the stock is barely simmering. Using a ladle,
skim the top of the water to remove any fat and/or impurities (scum).

At this point, add the flavoring components (vegetables, herbs, and spices) to
the stock. Chefs refer to the vegetables in stock as mirepoix (French,
pronounced mir-pwa). For white stocks, mirepoix generally consists of 2 parts
(by volume) onion and 1 part celery. Many chefs vary the composition of
mirepoix with such additions as well-washed chopped leeks or carrots (which in
too great a quantity will both sweeten and add a dark orangy hue the finished
stock). The mirepoix is generally cut in large 1/2 inch to 1 inch pieces. The
longer a stock cooks, the larger the mirepoix is cut.

Herbs and spices (bay leaf, thyme and black peppercorns) are added to stock
in one of 2 ways. If using fresh thyme, prepare a bundle, or "bouquet garni" in
French. To do this, cut a 2 inch piece of celery, place a couple of branches of
fresh thyme and parsley stems in the cavity of the celery. Top with a bay leaf,
and tie it securely with kitchen string. Dried ingredients like thyme, peppercorn
and sometimes bay leaf are put in a stock in a "sachet." To make a sachet,
place dried ingredients on a square of cheesecloth. Wrap up the cheesecloth to
make a bag (or sachet), and tie with a string.

Continue cooking the stock at a very slow simmer for the prescribed length of
time. A good rule of thumb is this: fish and vegetable stocks--30 minutes,
poultry stock--2-3 hours, and veal stock** 8-12 hours. Whenever impurities or
fat rise to the surface, skim them off carefully using a ladle. When the stock
has cooked long enough to extract all the gelatin from the bones and flavor
from the vegetables, herbs and bones, ladle (or pour very carefully) the stock
through a chinois (fine mesh conical strainer). Remove the stock from the
stockpot as gently as possible. If it is poured carelessly, one could stir up small
solid particles that typically settle to the bottom of the stockpot during cooking.
If these are stirred up, the stock could become cloudy. When straining through
a chinois, do not press on any solid ingredients that fall into the chinois. Not
only can this cloud the stock, but a sharp bone could pierce the mesh of the
chinois, thus rendering this expensive utensil useless. If the stock strains too
slowly, you can tap on the edge of the chinois to speed the process.

Once strained, professionals always chill stock in an ice water bath. This is the
fastest way to cool a stock. Once cold, store for up to several days, covered, in
the refrigerator. Stock also freezes very well.

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

Knowing how to make stock and really understanding why we do what we do,
are two different things. So let's retrace our steps and discuss some of them in
more detail.
We always start making a stock using cold, never hot, water. Cold water is
necessary to make a stock that is crystal clear and not cloudy or murky. When
a stock starts with cold water and is heated gently to the boiling point, the
proteins in the bones and meat will have time to slowly coagulate, clump
together, and rise to the surface in the form of scum. This scum can then be
easily skimmed off.
Once the stock reaches the boiling point, it is crucial that the heat is reduced immediately so that the
stock simmers slowly for the remainder of the time. If the stock boils hard for any length of time, the
coagulated protein and fat that rose to the surface of the stock will be churned back into the stock. This
creates a greasy and cloudy stock which is considered a grave fault in stock making. Sometimes a
lengthy period of simmering will correct the cloudiness, but if the stock has sufficiently churned and
boiled it is hopeless.
Why add the mirepoix after the first boil and not along with the bones and cold water? True,
this would extract more flavor from the vegetables, but they will have plenty of time to cook even if
added after the first initial boil. The answer is strictly a practical one. When a stock first comes to a boil,
it will produce the greatest amount of scum. With no mirepoix added to the pot, it is simple to skim off
the scum and fat without removing any of the aromatic ingredients.
Why bother making a sachet or a bouquet garni? The answer is basically the same as for the
mirepoix. While the stock is simmering, it is necessary to skim it from time to time. If we don't contain
the herbs, we will likely skim them off the top of stock along with the fat and scum. This, in effect,
removes flavor from the stock.
Lastly, why chill a stock in an ice bath? Most home chefs do not do this, but it is an excellent practice
to get in the habit of doing. Basically, it is a question of bacteria. Stock is a great medium for bacterial
growth. Bacteria love to grow between 40-145 degrees. Chilling stock in ice water lowers the
temperature of the stock rapidly. The stock does not then spend much time between 40-145 degrees and
this greatly reduces the possibility of bacterial growth.
**When making a white veal stock, it may be necessary to first blanch the bones. To do this, cover the
rinsed bones with cold water. Bring to a boil. Drain water from bones and rinse the bones again. Cover
the bones with new fresh cold water in the stockpot and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Continue as
with any other white stock by adding the mirepoix, etc. Blanching veal bones is a trick to keep the stock
from turning a dark, murky color.
How to Make Brown Stock?
Browned meat/bones and mirepoix are used to make a brown stock. Thus the first
step in making a brown stock is to cook the ingredients until they attain a light
caramelized color. To brown the bones, cut them (or have your butcher do this)
into 3 inch or smaller pieces. This will add to the surface area of each bone and
thus give more color and flavor to the finished stock. Place the bones, only 1 layer
thick, in a heavy roasting pan.

Place the pan in a 350 degree oven and cook until they are nicely browned
and not burned. To assure even browning, stir the bones often.
Utmost care should be given to make sure that the bones are evenly and
perfectly browned. Too little browning and the stock will not be colored or
flavored sufficiently. A small amount of burning--even a little bit--will cause
the stock to taste bitter.
After the bones have been properly roasted they should be removed from the
oven.

Once the bones are removed from the oven, remove them from the roasting pan

and drop into a stock pot. Pour any grease out of the pan.

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

Place the roasting pan on the stove, add about 1 inch of water, and bring to a boil.
Scrape the bottom of the roasting pan with a wooden spoon as the water boils.
This will loosen any bits of browned juices that were previously stuck to the pan.
These little browned bits are packed with flavor as well as color. (Incidentally, this
is called deglazing and is one of the many tricks chefs use to increase the flavor in
a stock or sauce.) Once the bottom of the pan is "cleaned" of these little browned
bits, taste the water. If it is slightly bitter, do not use it as it will turn the

finished stock very bitter. If it is not bitter, simply add it to the bones. (The
deglazing step also makes clean-up easier.)
As with white stock, bring the brown stock to a boil, skim, and turn down to a
simmer. Meanwhile, saut mirepoix in a small amount of oil until it is lightly
browned. Reduce heat and add a small amount of tomato paste. Cook the tomato
paste, stirring constantly, until it turns a brick red color. Cooking the tomato paste
removes its sharp acidity and will deepen the color of the finished stock. Add to
the stock and continue cooking for the recommended length of time (which
depends on the size of the bones) . When done, strain the stock and chill in ice
water.
So far, so much the same. So where's the difference? It's in the color and the taste.
White stocks are clear to light yellow while brown stocks are brown. In terms of
flavor, high quality brown stocks have a completely different flavor profile. They
boast complex roasted flavors that are absent in the more "simply" flavored white
stocks. Perhaps the best way of understanding the difference in flavor between the
2 stocks is to compare the flavor differences between a boiled chicken (that being
white stock) and a roasted chicken (that being the brown stock).
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------History of Sauces
The word "sauce" is a French word that means a relish to make our food more appetizing. Sauces are
liquid or semi-liquid foods devised to make other foods look, smell, and taste better, and hence be more
easily digested and more beneficial. Because of the lack of refrigeration in the early days of cooking,
meat, poultry, fish, and seafood didn't last long. Sauces and gravies were used to mask the flavor of
tainted foods.
200 A.D. - The Romans used sauces to disguise the taste of the food. Possibly to conceal doubtful
freshness.
1651 - A little heard of sauce today, but very popular in the 17th century is Sauce Robert. It is similar to
the present day Espagnole Sauce. Both Sauce Robert and Espangnole are basically a brown roux (a
combination of fat and flour to create a thickening agent).
There are five foundation sauces or basic sauces, called in French grandes sauces or sayces meres. Two
of them have a record of two hundred years behind them; they are the "bechamelle" and the
"mayonnaise". They have lasted so long, not only because they are very good, but also because they are
so adaptable and provide a fine basis for a considerable number of other sauces.
The other three, which also date back to the 18th century, are the "veloute," the "brune," and the
"blonde." These five sauces still provide the basis for making of many modern sauces, but no longer of
most of them.
Aioli (eye-YO-lee) - (French) The French word for garlic is "ail." Sometimes called the "butter of
Provence." Aioli is garlic-flavored mayonnaise made from pounded cloves of garlic, egg yolks, oil, and
seasoning. Just before it is served, lemon juice and a little cold water are added. It is served as a sauce
for a variety of garnishes and main courses.
History: It is believed to have originated in Provence, France. As the landscape of the Provence area is
not suited for cows as other areas of France, more for sheep, goats, and olive trees, butter is not a
common ingredient in Provencal food. See "mayonnaise."
Barnaise sauce (bair-naz) - It is a variation of hollandaise sauce. White wine or vinegar, diced shallots,
tarragon, and peppercorns are cooked together and reduced and sieved and then added to hollandaise
sauce. The spice tarragon is what gives it a distinctive taste. The sauce is served with beef and some
shellfish.
History: Chef Jules Colette at the Paris restaurant called Le Pavillon Henri IV in the 19th century invented
Barnaise sauce in Paris, France. It was named Barnaise in Henry's honor as he was born in Bearn,
France (a region in the Pyreness mountain range in southwest France). It is said that every chef at the
restaurant tried to claim the recipe as his own.
Bchamel Sauce (bay-shah-mel) - As the housewife in the 17th Century did not have the luxury of
modern
refrigeration, they were wary of using milk in their recipes. Peddlers were known to sell watered down or
rancid produce. Basically, only the rich or royalty could use milk in their sauces.
In France, it is one of the four basic sauces called "meres" or "mother sauces" from which all other
sauces derive. It is also know as "white sauce." It is a smooth, white sauce made from a roux made with
flour, boiled milk, and butter. It is usually served with white meats, eggs, and vegetables. It forms the
basis of many other sauces.

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

History: There are four theories on the origin of Bchamel Sauce:

The Italian version of who created this sauce is that it was created in the 14th century and was
introduced by the Italian chefs of Catherine de Medici (1519-1589), the Italian-born Queen of France. In
1533, as part of an Italian-French dynastic alliance, Catherine was married to Henri, Duke of Orleans (the
future King Henri II of France. It is because of the Italian cooks and pastry makers who followed her to
France that the French came to know the taste of Italian cooking that they introduced to the French
court.
Bchamel Sauce was invented by Duke Philippe De Mornay (1549-1623), Governor of Saumur, and Lord
of the Plessis Marly in the 1600s. Bchamel Sauce is a variation of the basic white sauce of Mornay. He is
also credited with being the creator of Mornay Sauce, Sauce Chasseur, Sauce Lyonnaise, and Sauce
Porto.
Marquis Louis de Bchamel (16031703), a 17th century financier who held the honorary post of chief
steward of King Louis XIV's (1643-1715) household, is also said to have invented Bchamel Sauce when
trying to come up with a new way of serving and eating dried cod. There are no historical records to
verify that he was a gourmet, a cook, or the inventor of Bchamel Sauce.
It is more likely that Chef Francois Pierre de la Varenne (1615-1678) created Bchamel Sauce. He was a
court chef during King Louis XIV's (1643-1715) reign, during the same time that Bchamel was there. He
is often cited as being the founder of haute cuisine (which would define classic French cuisine). La
Varenne wrote Le Cuisinier Francois (The True French Cook), which included Bchamel Sauce. It is
thought that he dedicated it to Bchamel as a compliment. La Varenne recipes used roux made from
flour and butter (or other animal fat) instead of using bread as a thickener for sauces.
Chasseur Sauce - Chasseur is French for hunter. It is a hunter-style brown sauce consisting of
mushrooms, shallots, and white wine (sometimes tomatoes and parsley). It is most often served with
game and other meats. Chasseur, or "Hunter Style" was meant for badly shot game or tough old birds.
The birds were always cut up to remove lead shot or torn parts, and often cooked all day on the back of
the range if they were old or tough. Originally the veggies used were ones hunters would find while they
hunted. This can be scaled up.
History: It is thought that Chasseur sauce was invented by Duke Philippe De Mornay (1549-1623),
Governor of Saumur, and Lord of the Plessis Marly in the 1600s. He was a great protestant writer and
called the protestant pope. It is said that he also invented Mornay Sauce, Sauce Bchamel, Sauce
Lyonnaise, and Sauce Porto.
Coulis (koo-LEE) (1) A French culinary term. It is a type of a sauce, usually a thick one, which derives it body (either
entirely or in part), from pureed fruits or vegetables. A sauce of cooked down tomatoes can be a tomato
coulis as can a puree of strained blackberries.
(2) Today coulis also means a thick soup made with crayfish, lobster, prawns, and other crustaceans the word being used where bisque has formerly been used.
History: In old English cookbooks, the world "cullis" is found but this has fallen into disuse and "coulis"
has taken its place. At one time, coulis were sauces and also the juices which flowed from roasting meat.
Some cooks called liquids purees coulis, but only those prepared with chicken, game, fish, crustaceans,
and some vegetables.
Hollandaise Sauce (HOL-uhn-dayz) - Hollandaise mean Holland-style or from Holland. Uses butter and
egg yolks as binding. It is served hot with vegetables, fish, and eggs (like egg benedict). It will be a pale
lemon color, opaque, but with a luster not appearing oily. The basic sauce and its variations should have
a buttery-smooth texture, almost frothy, and an aroma of good butter. Making this emulsified sauce
requires a good deal of practice it is not for the faint of heart. Barnaise sauce, which is "related" to
hollandaise sauce, is most often served with steak.
History - Most historians agree that it was originally called Sauce Isigny after a town in Normandy, Isignysur-Mer, known for its butter. Today, Normandy is called the cream capital of France. During World War I,
butter production came to a halt in France and had to be imported from Holland. The name was changed
to hollandaise to indicate the source of the butter and was never changed back.
17th Century - Sauce Hollandaise, as we now know it, is the modern descendant of earlier forms of a
sauce believed to have been brought to France by the Heugenots. It appears to have actually been a
Flemish or Dutch sauce thickened with eggs, like a savory custard, with a little butter beaten in to
smooth the texture.
Marinara (mah-ree-NAH-rah) - Means "sailor" in Italian (sailor style of tomato sauce). A spicy, quickly
cooked pasta sauce of Italian origins but far more popular in American restaurants featuring southern
Italian cuisines than in most of Italy
Mayonnaise (MAY-uh-nayz) - Mayonnaise is an emulsion consisting of oil, egg, vinegar, condiments, and
spices.
History: When first invented, it was called Mahonnaise. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the
sauce got its present name of mayonnaise purely by accident through a printing error in an early 1841
cookbook. There are many conflicting stories on the origin of mayonnaise:
Most authorities believe the first batch of this mixture of egg yolks, oil and seasonings was whipped up
to celebrate the 1756 French capture of Mahon, a city on the Spanish Isle of Minorca, by forces under
Louis-Francois-Armad de Vignerot du Plessis, duc de Richelieu (1696-1788). The Duke, or more likely, his
personal chef, is credited with inventing mayonnaise, as his chef created a victory feast that was to
include a sauce made of cream and eggs. Realizing that there was no cream in the kitchen, the chef

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

substituted olive oil for the cream and a new culinary creation was born. Supposedly the chef named the
new sauce "Mahonnaise" in honor of the Duc's victory. Besides enjoying a reputation as a skillful military
leader, the Duke was also widely known as a bon vivant with the odd habit of inviting his guests to dine
in the nude.
Early French immigrant cooks that originally lived in Fort Mahon brought the original recipe to Minnesota.
An old superstition is that a woman should not attempt to make mayonnaise during menstruation time,
as the mayonnaise will simply not blend together as well.
Some historians state that Marie Antoine Careme (1784-1833), celebrated French chef and author,
proclaimed that mayonnaise was derived from the word magnonaise (magner means made by hand or
stir). Due to the time period of when Careme was a chef, this theory doesn't make sense, as he would
surely have know the history of the name, had mayonnaise been created as recently as 1756.
The French cities Bayonne and Les Mayons also claim to be the place of birth of mayonnaise.
Les Mayons, capital of Minorque in the Balearic Islands, occupied by English and conquered by the
French admiral Louis-Franois-Louis-Franois-Armand of Plessis de Richelieu. He brought back a local
sauce based on lemon juice key and egg yolk, olive oil, raised of a little black pepper and marine salt,
garlic or fresh grass.
Bayonne, a resort town on the Aquitaine/Basque coast in southwest France. It is thought that
mayonnaise could be an alteration and corruption of bayonnaise sauce. Nowdays, bayonnaise refers to a
mayonnaise flavored with the Espelette chiles.
The sauce may have remained unnamed until after the Battle of Arques in 1589. It may then have been
christened "Mayennaise" in 'honor' of Charles de Lorraine, duc de Mayenne (1554-1611), supposedly
because he took the time to finish his meal of chicken with cold sauce before being defeated in battle by
Henri IV (1553-1610).
Other historians claim it received its name from the Old French words "moyeunaise" or "moyeu,"
meaning, "egg yok."
In 1910, Nina Hellman, a German immigrant from New York City, made a dressing that her husband,
Richard Hellman, used on the sandwiches and salads he served in his New York delicatessen. He started
selling the spread in "wooden boats" that were used for weighing butter. Initially he sold two versions of
the recipe, and to differentiate between the two, he put a blue ribbon around one. In 1912, there was
such a great demand for the "ribbon" version, that Hellmann designed a "Blue Ribbon" label, which he
placed on larger glass jars. He did so well that he started a distribution business, purchased a fleet of
trucks, and in 1912 built a manufacturing plant. Also Best Foods, Inc. in California did the same. Hellman
and Best Foods later merged and account for about 45% of all bottled mayonnaise sole in the United
States.
Newburg Sauce - An American sauce that was created at the famous Delmonico Restaurant in New
York City by their French chef, M. Pascal. This elegant sauce is composed of butter, cream, egg yolks,
sherry, and seasonings. It is usually served over buttered toast points. The sauce is also used with other
foods, in which case the dish is usually given the name "Newburg."
History: The sauce was originally named after a Mr. Wenburg, a frequent guest at the Delmonico
restaurant. Mr. Wenburg and the boss of the Delmoico had an argument, thus causing Wenburg to insist
that the sauce be renamed. The first three letters were changed to "New" instead of "Wen" to create the
name "Newberg."
Remoulade (ray-muh-LAHD) A chilled flavored mayonnaise used in French cuisine. It includes
mayonnaise, anchovies or anchovy paste, mustard, capers, and chopped pickles that are served as a
dressing for cold meats, poultry or seafood.
Veloute Sauce (veh-loo-TAY) - Also called sauce blanche grasse or fat white sauce, rich white sauce.
One of the five "mother sauces." It is a stock-based white sauce that can be made from chicken, veal, or
fish stock thickened with white roux.
Allemande Sauce - Veal veloute with egg yolk and cream liaison.
Supreme Sauce - Chicken veloute reduced with heavy cream
Vin Blanc Sauce - Fish veloute with shallots, butter, and fines herbs.
Mother Sauces - Also called Grand Sauces. These are the five most basic sauces that every cook
should master. Antonin Careme, founding father of French "grande cuisine," came up with the
methodology in the early 1800's by which hundreds of sauces would be categorized under five Mother
Sauces, and there are infinite possibilities for variations, since the sauces are all based on a few basic
formulas. Sauces are one of the fundamentals of cooking. Know the basics and you'll be able to prepare
a multitude of recipes like a professional. Learn how to make the basic five sauces and their most
common derivatives.
The Five Mother Sauces are:

Bechamel Sauce (white)

Veloute Sauce (white)

Espagnole Sauce (Brown (demi-glace))

Hollandaise Sauce (butter)

Tomato Sauce (red)

A sauce is the crowning glory of any dish. From the basic "five mother" sauces, there are literally
hundreds of variations of sauce that are used to dress, compliment, enhance and bring out the flavor of
the food it is served with.

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

Bchamel, the classic white sauce, was named after its inventor, Louis XIV's steward Louis de
Bchamel. The king of all sauces, it is often referred to as a cream sauce because of its appearance and
is probably used most frequently in all types of dishes. Made by stirring milk into a butter-flour roux, the
thickness of the sauce depends on the proportion of flour and butter to milk. The proportions for a thin
sauce would be 1 tablespoon each of butter and flour per 1 cup of milk; a medium sauce would use 2
tablespoons each of butter and flour; a thick sauce, 3 tablespoons each.
Velout is a stock-based white sauce. It can be made from chicken, veal or fish stock. Enrichments such
as egg yolks or cream are sometimes also added.
Espagnole, or brown sauce, is traditionally made of a rich meat stock, a mirepoix of browned
vegetables (most often a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery), a nicely browned roux, herbs and
sometimes tomato paste.
Hollandaise and Mayonnaise are two sauces that are made with an emulsion of egg yolks and fat.
Hollandaise is made with butter, egg yolks and lemon juice, usually in a double boiler to prevent
overheating, and served warm. It is generally used to embellish vegetables, fish and egg dishes, such as
the classic Eggs Benedict.
Mayonnaise is a thick, creamy dressing that's an emulsion of vegetable oil, egg yolks, lemon juice or
vinegar and seasonings. It is widely used as a spread, a dressing and as a sauce. It's also used as the
base for such mixtures as Tartar Sauce, Thousand Island Dressing, Aoli, and Remoulade.
Vinaigrette is a sauce made of a simple blend of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper (usually 3 parts oil to 1
part vinegar). More elaborate variations can include any combination of spices, herbs, shallots, onions,
mustard, etc. It is generally used to dress salad greens and other cold vegetable, meat or fish dishes.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Thickening Agents
Thickening agents are used in sauces, soups and stews and in glazes jellies and foams. This section is
complementary to the section on sauces.
The methods of thickening are:
1. REDUCTION
Reduction is the process of boiling a liquid to concentrate its ingredients by evaporation. This boiling
deepens the flavor of the sauce and improves its color, consistency and appearance. Typically these
sauces are made from the liquor in which the ingredients have been cooked or by deglazing the roasting
tin with a water, wine, or stock (or all of these), this is cooked down to reduce its volume. Cream may
then be added and the whole reduced again to produce the final sauce. Sauce constituents, which dry
out above the water line, should be scraped down into the liquid to help intensify the flavor. Only
double or whipped cream should be used in sauces prepared in this way, to avoid curdling at high
temperatures. Some acid and alcohol additions can cause curdling of cream.
2. STARCH
Starches are frequently used in both sweet and savory sauces. Starch is found in the seeds of grain, in
roots and tubers and sometimes in the fruit and stems of plants. Starches from different sources differ
slightly in their properties. Starch does not dissolve in cold water, but as water is heated it gradually
penetrates the starch granules causing them to swell up, this in turn thickens the sauce a little, but
finally, near to boiling point (slightly different temperatures according to starch type) the granule bursts,
starch is released into the liquid and marked thickening occurs. There are, broadly, two sorts of starches:
grain starches, which contain mostly amylose (a long chain molecule) and root starches, which contain
mostly amylopectin (a shorter, branched chain). These two react differently
Grain
These are starches from wheat and corn and are more effective thickeners than the root starches. When
they cool they form a solid opaque gel. Sauces made from these starches freeze badly.
Sauces from these starches are transparent at gelation temperature but become more opaque on
cooling, the thickening at gelation temperature becomes even more pronounced as it cools. It thickens at
just below boiling point and can be held at this point without harm. Moderate stirring will not alter the
thickness of hot sauce but will thin a cooled and set sauce. These sauces can be reheated without
thinning.
Cornflour is a purer form of starch than wheat flour and is a more efficient thickener. Both wheat and
corn starch have a pronounced cereal flavour of their own which has to be cooked out. Wheat flour
gelates between 52 and 85C, cornflour between 62 and 80C.
Root
An example of this sort of starch is Arrowroot. Sauces made from these starches thicken at a slightly
lower temperature than those from the grain starches, they will however thin if they are over stirred,
over heated or cooled and reheated. Sauces made from these sauces are transparent at gelation and
transparent and glossy when cool, they are at their thickest at the gelation temperature, which is lower
than that of the grain starches, but may thin if overheated. Vigorous stirring after the thickening may
thin the sauce and it will thin if reheated. These sauces freeze well. As these starches do not have a
flavour of their own and so do not have to have it cooked out they are ideal for last minute thickening of
already cooked sauces.
Potato starch is from a tuber and behaves a bit like a root starch.
Using the starches to thicken:

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Unfortunately, simply adding starch to hot water will cause lumps to form, which will never disperse
evenly. When added in this way the clumps of starch granules develop a partly gelated surface as soon
as they hit the water, sealing the dry granules within so that they do not disperse properly.
There are four techniques used to prevent this from happening: Slurry, Beurre Mani, Floured Meat and
Roux.
Slurry: In this technique, commonly used with cornflour, the starch is mixed with a small quantity of
cold water to wet and separate the granules, which are then added to the sauce.
Beurre Manie : Here the starch granules are separated with fat the starch is kneaded into and equal
weight of butter. Pieces of this are then added to the sauce (usually used for last minute thickening) the
butter melts releasing the fat covered granules whose gelation and swelling are delayed by the water
repellant surface.
Floured Meat: This method is commonly used in stews and fricassees. The pieces of meat are dusted
with flour before being browned and only then added to the cold cooking liquid that will become the
sauce. The starch has been dispersed over the surface of the meat and coated with fat in which will
prevent clumping when the liquid is added.
Roux: This is the common and traditional way of starting many sauces. A mixture of equal weights of fat
and flour are cooked together to one of three end points: white roux, where the moisture is cooked out,
but the white colour remains; blond roux, which has a slightly yellow colour and brown roux, which has a
definite brown colour. The more cooked the roux the less its thickening ability.
3. LIAISON
Originally used to refer to both the ingredients used to thicken a sauce and the act of thickening itself,
this term has now changed to refer to simple techniques used for thickening and will be applied loosely
here to describe mixtures that do not fall clearly into the other categories.
Egg/Cream
Mixing eggs with cream raises the temperature at which eggs will coagulate making it easier to add
them to a sauce without curdling. Use two egg yolks to 150ml cream (whipping or double) to thicken
500ml sauce.
Butter
Whisking cold butter into a hot sauce (known as monter au beurre) thickens and enriches it. Butter may
be heated until it changes colour and used as a sauce: hazel nut brown is known as Beurre Noisette and
may be used on its own or emulsified with lemon juice. A darker brown is Beurre Noir, which can also be
used unmodified, or emulsified with vinegar.
Crme Frache
Use full fat crme frache and whisk into the sauce. It is less rich in flavour than cream for which it can
be interchanged.
Yoghurt
Unfortunately yoghurt separates at 80C but it can be whisked into a sauce a little at a time (a
teaspoonful of cornflour added to 150ml of yoghurt will help to stabilize it before using)
Blood
Somewhat more esoteric and used for thickening sauces used with game and coq au vin. The blood is
saved from the animal when it is slaughtered and water is added (one part blood to one quarter cold
water) and whisked, sometimes a few drops of vinegar are added to prevent coagulation. It must be
used with the same caution as egg yolk: 125ml will thicken one litre of sauce.
4. EMULSIONS
Egg/Butter
Hollandaise and Barnaise are the classic egg and butter emulsions. Hollandaise uses lemon juice and
Barnaise a reduction of vinegar and herbs but the technique and principle is the same for each: Butter
is beaten slowly into the warmed egg yolk mixture (remembering that eggs coagulate at about 70 to
77C. The egg yolk works as the emulsifier allowing oil and water to mix in a stable emulsion. An acidic
environment (pH 4.5) will help to prevent curdling and this is provided by the lemon juice or vinegar. A
double boiler is often used.
Egg/Oil
Mayonnaise is the prime example of this type of thickening. Once again an emulsion is made, this time
between egg (whole or yolks) and oil: the latter whisked slowly into the former.
Butter/Vinegar
Butter has enough natural emulsifying agents built in to form an emulsion with a watery liquid without
additional ingredients. Beurre Blanc is the main example and is an emulsion of a flavourful reduction of
wine and or vinegar with butter. This is thinner and lighter than Hollandaise or Bearnaise. It is
temperature sensitive and will separate above 58C and solidify and crystallize below 30C and does not
reheat well.
5. GELATIN
When meat or fish stock is allowed to cool it may set, this is caused by the presence of naturally
occurring gelatin, if its concentration is above 1%. This is a fragile jelly, but commercially manufactured

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gelatin is widely used for thickening jellies in concentrations of 3% or more. Gelatin will denature at high
temperatures Added gelatin is used principally for making jellies designed to set rather than for sauces,
possibly because too tick a gelatin mixture can seem gluey in the mouth. Gelatin melts at about 30C
and begins to solidify at 15C.
Carrageen
Also known as Irish moss. This is a carbohydrate gelling agent made from seaweed and sometimes used
as a vegetarian substitute for gelatin. It must be soaked for 20 minutes and then boiled for 15 minutes
before adding to the liquid to be set.
Agar Agar
Made commercially by boiling seaweed. It will form a gel at lower concentrations than gelatin; it is
slightly more opaque and crumbly than a gelatin jelly. It has to be soaked and boiled before use,
although not of as long a Carrageen. It sets at about 38C, but re-melts, unusually, at 85C and thus will
not melt in the mouth.
Rennet
Extracted from the stomach of an unweaned calf this enzyme is used for making junket and in cheese
making.
Isinglass
Obtained from the swim bladder of the sturgeon, yields gelatin when heated with water. For use as a
thickening agent it must be boiled before use: 35g will thicken 1L of liquid. It is now mainly used of
clarifying liquids in the manufacture or beer and wine, its fibrous nature enabling it to do this more
efficiently than ordinary gelatin. Its relative expense has limited its use as a thickening agent nowadays.
6. BREAD
Fresh breadcrumbs may be added to uncooked sauces for a light textured thickening. Slices of bread
may be soaked in liquid and pureed in a blender or food processor (beware of over processing which will
produce a gluey texture) before being cooked. Typical sauces are the Italian Salsa Verde and the English
Bread Sauce. Soups may also be thickened in this manner: broth is be added to dry bread, which is
simmered until the bread is soft and then pulped or liquidized.
7. VEGETABLES and FRUIT
Purees
Pureed fruit or vegetables are used to thicken their own sauces for example in tomato sauce.
Coulis
In these preparations the pureed vegetables are passed through a fine sieve and then diluted with stock.

Soup is a food that is made by combining ingredients such as meat and vegetables in stock or
hot/boiling water, until the flavor is extracted, forming a broth.
Traditionally, soups are classified into two broad groups: clear soups and thick soups. The established
French classifications of clear soups are bouillon and consomm. Thick soups are classified depending
upon the type of thickening agent used: pures are vegetable soups thickened with starch; bisques are
made from pured shellfish or vegetables thickened with cream; cream soups are thickened with
bchamel sauce; and velouts are thickened with eggs, butter and cream. Other ingredients commonly
used to thicken soups and broths include rice, flour, and grain.
Stocks form the base of a multitude of soups. Soup is immensely popular. It is warm and nourishing. It is
perhaps the ultimate comfort food complete with childhood memories of blustery winter days. It is the
age-old remedy of choice for soothing a sore throat. Each country has its own distinctive soup(s) ranging
from Chinese hot and sour to Polish duck blood soup. From the four star restaurant to the country diner,
soup is featured on just about every menu.
Soup, according to the dictionary, is a liquid food derived from meat, fish, or vegetables.
Classifications of Soups
Clear Soups are all based on a clear, unthickened broth or stock. They may be served plain or
garnished with a variety of vegetables and meats.
1.
2.
3.

Broth and bullion are two terms used in many ways. In general, they both refer to simple, clear
soups without solid ingredients.
Vegetable soup is a clear, seasoned stock or broth with the addiction of one or more vegerables
and sometimes meat or poultry and starches.
Consomme is a rich flavorful stock or broth that has been clarified to make it perfectly clear and
transparent. Far from being a plain old cup of broth, a well-made consomme is one of
thegreatesst of all soups. Its sparkling clarity is a delight to the eye and its rich, full flavor,
strenght, and body make it a perfect starter for an elegant dinner.

Thick Soups- are opaque rather than transparent, they are thicked either by adding a thickening agents
such as roux, or by pureeing ne or more either ingredients to provide a heavier consistency.

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

1.

2.

3.
4.
5.

Cream soups are soups that are thickened with roux, beurre manie, liaison or other thickening
ingredients plus milk and/or cream. They are similar to veloute and bechamel sauces-in fact,
they may be made by dilluting and flavoring either of these two leading sauces. Cream soups are
ussually named after their major ingredient such as cream of chicken or cream of mushroom.
Purees are soups that are naturally thickened by pureeing one or more of their ingredients. They
are not as smooth and creamy as cream soups. Purees are normally based on starchy
ingredients. They may be made from dried legumes or from fresh vegetables with a starchy
ingredient such as potatoes or rice added. Puree may or may not contain milk or cream.
Bisques are thicked soups made from shellfish. They are usually prepared like cream soups and
are almost always finished with cream. The term bisque is sometimes used on menus for a
variety of vegetable soups.
Chowders are hearty soups made from fish, shellfish , and/or vegetables. Athough they are made
in nmany ways, they usually contain milk and potatoes.
Potage is a term sometimes associated with certain thick, hearty soups but it is actually a
general term for soup. A clear soup is called a potage clair in French,

Specialty and National Soups - This is a catch-all category that includes soups that dont fit well into
the main categories and soups that are native to a particular countries or regions. Specialty soups are
distinguished by unusuall ingredients or methods such as turtle soup, gumbo, peanut soup and cold fruit
soup.
Service of Soups
Standard Portion Sizes
Appetizer portion 6 to 8 oz (200-250ml)
Main Course portion 10-12 oz (300-350 ml)
Temperature
Serve hot soups hot, in hot cups or bowls
Serve cold soups cold, in chilled bowls or even nested in a larger bowl of crushed ice.
HOW TO MAKE CONSOMM
Consomm is nothing more than clarified broth, and therefore it is made in two steps - first the broth,
then the clarification.
For this purpose you will need one set of ingredients for broth and one set for clarification. Consomm
should be very rich in flavor, which is achieved by including several aromatic ingredients in the
clarification mix. So, a combination of flavorful high-quality produce in both the broth and the
clarifying agent will give the best result. Two critical factors for getting a nice consomme is to keep the
soup at a slow simmering, and to cool down the clarification mixture in the lowest shelf of the
refrigerator before use. And of course, a good quality stock or a freshly made stock is essential for
success.
What is meant by clarification? It's simply a means to remove all the traces of small and bigger
particles that float in the soup, and consequently to get a perfectly clear consomm.
To do so, get yourself a combination of egg whites, mirepoix (chopped onions, carrot, celery), herbs,
tomatoes, and possibly some freshly ground meat. Obviously, the sticky egg whites will bind all the
particles and coagulate, after which this coagulated "lid" will float on the surface of the consomm and
can be removed. What are all the other things for? Simply to give the soup another deal of fresh
flavoring, which makes the soup much more tasty. Remember to cut the vegetables and other
ingredients quite small, since you want a quick flavor extraction and also they will be removed easily.
Also a note on tomatoes: they are needed not only for the flavor but also for the proper formation of
the egg white raft. This effect is achieved by the acidity that tomatoes provide, but you could also use
some other acidic ingredients (vinegar, lemon juice, etc.) if you want and if it better suits the flavor of
the soup. These acidic ingredients are added to the clarification mixture just before use.
For consomm, use a heavy bottomed pan, and make sure it's also quite tall rather than wide, because
you want more of the "lifting steam" effect in the pot to help the clarification process.
Here is a basic procedure for making consomm. You can use whatever ingredients you like,
depending on your preferences or the recipe you are working with. There are many different ways to
finalize a consomm, influenced by different cuisines, and you can surely find examples of them in
cookbooks.
For 1 liter/1 quart of consomm you will need:
1.3 liter/quart of stock or broth
For clarification:
200 g/7 oz mirepoix (onions, carrot, celery in proportion 2:1:1)
200 g/7 oz ground meat, or fish, or poultry
2-3 egg whites
some acidic ingredient, like 100 g/4 oz chopped tomatoes, or a little lemon juice or vinegar or dry wine

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces

For additional flavor:

salt, pepper, herbs, bouquet garni, etc.
To make the consomm:
1. Prepare the clarification ingredients and put them into the refrigerator, on the lowest shelf. Don't
add the acidic ingredient yet. You can use some stock to aid the mixing process.
2. Have your broth simmering hot and when it is ready, add the cold clarification mixture. Stir
frequently until a raft starts to form on the surface of the soup. Observe that the soup must not be too
hot because the process will be too quick. Once the raft masses start to form, stop the stirring and
reduce the heat so you only see a few bubbles here and there. You must not have too low temperature
either because then the particles that you want to remove will not raise to the top.
3. Allow the raft to slowly form. You can bath it with the stock by ladling it onto the raft. A small hole
should form in the raft, but if it doesn't then make one with a spoon. Simmer until a nice flavor has set
- adjust with seasonings if necessary. Usually it takes one hour or so to get the full flavor developed
and the consomm cleaned. The raft may actually sink after a while because of its weight, but that's
nothing to worry about as long as it doesn't break up.
4. Strain the consomm through a finely meshed sieve or a cheesecloth. Make sure to not pour the raft
over to the strainer because the small particles may become released. Finally, degrease the
consomm with a paper (possibly after refrigeration that will coagulate more fat particles and bring
them to the surface). Season the consomm for the last time and serve it.

Week 5 Session 1 - Basic Stocks, Soups & Sauces