The American Garment Cutter 3rd Edition A
The American Garment Cutter 3rd Edition A
The American Garment Cutter 3rd Edition A
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56
THE
^A
complete,
on
treatise
practical
up-to-date
Cutting
the
of
MEN'S GARMENTS
according
method
the
to
most approved
NEW YORK
LONDON
PARIS
BERLIN
VIENNA
/l/^ I^/^Y^
JCT 14 f9l4
^CI,A380855
INTRODUCTION
Draper in his "Intellectual Advancement of Civilization" says: "Individual
advancement is the model for social progress. Nowhere is the truth of this to
be found so fully realized as in these United States, where individual advancement is marked in every avenue of life. "Excelsior" is inscribed on the banner
of every man and woman, borne onward and forward through the rush and
crush, through the whirlpools and fast flowing streams of life's kaleidoscopic
changes, ever reaching higher and higher and becoming more and more and
still more perfect in their particular sphere and in their own individual calling".
For twenty years the author has devoted his time and study to the compilabook for self-instruction in the art of cutting and designing men's
garments, so arranged that any one of average intelligence can master it with
proper care and necessary diligence.
tion of a
The student will find the system extremely simple and entirely free from
complication; no scale or chart of any kind is used, simply the ordinary divisioned square and inch tape measure; everything which might have a tendency to
befog and mislead the student has been eliminated, so that every line drawn and
applied may be easily grasped and perfectly understood. To produce a method
of cutting where the points are based on the actual build of a man, and to be
reproduced as nearly perfect as is possible to human ingenuity is what has been
sought in this work. The author has so far succeeded that of the many who
have studied, either by direct instruction or by the aid of this publication, not
one has failed to enjoy the fullest confidence of their clientage. Particularly is
this system of value where cutting has to be done without "try-on," and at no
time can a garment be spoiled. The perfect points being the fundamental object
of this
method.
'1
PREFACE
In placing" this work before the Cutting" Fraternity, we feel confident that
we have placed before them somelhing that is useful and practical. Unlike any
other work of its kind, its construction is simple and easy to understand. It has
been our aim to eliminate all discussion of an anatomical nature, for we do not
pretend to teach anatomy, nor do we try to convince the student of something
we are not convinced of ourselves. We do claim that our work is absolutely
and correct, its measures are simple, and applied on the pattern exactly
as taken, they will cover any and all points that have heretofore confused the
cutter. There will be no need for the cutter to mark on the book "R. B." for
round back or "O. E." for over erect or any other sign by which to show the
shape of his customer, for his measure.nents will show all such points.
feel certain that any cutter following the instruction of the AMERICAN GARMENT Cutter will be satisfied with the results obtained.
practical,
We
The Author
S. REGAL.
and Practical.
The many systems that were heretofore published, advanced theories and
expounded systems that proved to be so intricate and ambiguous they left the
student floundering in uncertainty, and necessitated either a course of personal
instruction, or a return to his former system that had proved unsatisfactory.
The great success that attended the sale of the first and second
work is evidenced by that fact that many orders have been held
of this
first
editions
in
abey-
That the Author has succeeded in producing a work fulfilling all the requirements of a Self-Instructor is attested to by the result that not a single
request for an explanation of any point has been received since the first and
second issues were presented to the public.
Whilst the fundamental principles of the system taught in the previous
editions have been retained, yet some changes have been made that practical
experience has found to be beneficial, and many diagrams of garments added
that make this the most complete work on Garment Cutting ever published.
The system
Fashion
within
its
The claims made for this work are fully borne out by the success attained
who studied the first and second editions, and we know that it will
those
by
the same favor as its predecessor, and be of invaluable use to those
with
meet-
who purchase
it.
The Author,
S. REGAL.
fit
the
human body
perfect
known among
cutters
is,
common
if
but
to ask
man
him
it
requires
being measured.
hundred men
to see a
you were
is
much
tact
on
fact well
indignant and answer, "why of course this is my natural position," but if after the garment is
completed, he stoops forward, his chest sunken in, his back rounded, it will then be necessary
for the cutter to either make a big alteration era new garment; so it will readily be seen that
the cutter who can make his customer forget that he is being measured, has the best chance
of success.
my
that are being studied and invented, it would seem as if a great number of cutters are realizing that the proper measurements of the body is one of the greatest, if not the greatest, factor
in producing that which the cutter is aiming to produce. But so far as I can see, no instrument has yet been devised that can really give a good measurement, /. c, an instrument which
the young student, as well as the practical cutter, can handle with an equal degree of confi-
From my
line, this
quently,
if
high, so
is
line.
If
if
is
is
We
all
know
too
the waist hollow, the more back length we need, and that length can only be had by hollowthis
ing the backpart at the waist the proper amount to correspond with the indentation
will adjust the lengths of the backpart from the breast line down, the same as the scye depth
and strap will adjust it from the scye depth up.
:
HOW TO
MEASURE.
Before measuring, it is well to see that the sides of the Vest are not too loose; if necessary, pin up both sides of the Vest, but see that the center seam of the back is in the right
place.
Use
and
arm
the ordinary division square. Place square under the arm with the long end down
with the body. (See Fig. 1). The short end to be close, but not tight, under the
parallel
;
make
a chalk
mark on top
of
it
in front.
FIGURE
1.
HOW TO MEASURE
Now
2), still
edge of
across the
first line,
it
(Continued)
arm
witli the
so that
it
leaves a cross
mark
mark
at the
outer
FIGURE
2.
HOW TO MEASURE
The
cross
front on Figure 3
(Continued)
shows where
tlie
hne
of scye depth
and
11
FIGURE
3.
12
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
After tibtaiiiing this point, place the stjuare and yardstick tuyetlier (Fig.
the distance frc^m that square line
U])
is
down
to the floor as
side.
and measure
shown.
1)
5.
Mark
the
FIGURE
4.
FIGURE
5.
13
14
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
Place the square across the two hues and mark mi the center seam. (Fig.
tlie
down from C
where
tlie
liip
may
l)e,
so Irmg as
It
is
mark
6).
Now
place
for
the
do
no matter
draft
as
the
FIGURE
C.
15
16
HOW TO MEASURE
(Fig. 7).
Now
place the yardstick against the liack and seat, and place the square to the
We
Now,
(Continued)
how much
indentatioii there
on
how
this
measurement
is IJ/2
is
is
inches, but
used.
thi,s
may
be more or
less.
FIGURE
17
18
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
(Fig. 8). Now beginning at the collar button, proceed to measure as follows: first from
on to the waist length and full length.
the socket bone or collar button to the scye depth
It is not necessary to call ofif the seat length for the simple reason that the seat length is
;
always
(Fig. 9).
Now
down
to the front
mark.
(Fig. 10). The overshoulder measure from the scye depth at the center of back, across
shoulder
to the front cross mark.
the
(Fig. llj.
The
blade measure, from the front cross line under the arm and over the blade
to the center seam of the backpart as illustrated. The breast measure, which should be taken
naturally, neither too loose nor too tight, should be taken o\er the largest part of the blade.
Then take the waist and seat measure. In taking the seat measure, we always make our ad-
THE
VEST.
full
length measure,
(itlier-
19
20
HOW TO MEASURE
(Continued)
TROUSERS.
Measure the outside seam from
For the inseam,
of heel
In
to
and reduce
tlie liip
}-4
inch
will gi\'e
them the
and reduce
liecl
|}-'|
inch.
it
must be remembered
that
tn the top
if
for
wear, but
may
be
inch.'
cif
then measure the waist, hip, seat, thigh, knee and bottom.
come down
m;idc fmni
I'/]
If
may
if
made
'4
made
inch
be reduced
)/.
inch
rfl"U' in
'
"I"
i l
'
'T
* '* 1 1< r
il l '
.p..,,...,.,rTrr,T
FIGURE
U>.
21
22
THE SQUARE.
for these diagrams is a plain di\ision square, understood by most cutthe benefit of those who do not understand it, we herewith give an exphmation
of the divisions of same.
is divided into 'A, Vi, Yb, A, 1-34; the short end is divided into
Should you try to find Ys of any size, say 36, 40 or 48,. look at the
short end of the square marked Ys, and there you will find the number you want, IS for 36,
20 for 40, or 24 for 48. Should you want >4 of any size, look at the same short end of square
marked >4, or if you want Vb, Vi or A, look at the long end for the mark Vz, Yb or A and you
will find
of the square
and
1/2,
1-32.
it.
In drawing for square lines, be sure that you hold your square on the one line lirndy,
while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft.
DIAGRAM
We
ments
now proceed
will
for this
with the
1.
lesson which
tirst
is
grciundwork.
the
The measure-
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length
Strap
IK'
'"t^lies
inches
I63X inches
inches or whatever
30
inches
12
inches
17
12><^ inches
inches
36
inches
32
inches
38
9
Overshoulder
Blade
Breast
Waist
Hip
it
might be
From
(!
to
inches always;
tween
and F;
is
to
From C to 2 is one-half the indentation, in this case J4 iii^~'i from E to 22 is one-half the
C to 2, in this case ^ inch. This is for body fitting coats. If the coat is to be
loose, make the distance from E to 22 the same as C to 2, but if the coat is to be a full box
Draw a line from F to 2 and
coat, then draw a line from F through 2 down to the bottom.
;
distance of
from
3 to 22
1.
From
between
Now let it be understood that the blade measure does not always come even with the line
squared down from L, as the increase or decrease of the blade measure may move the line
This will be more fully explained as we
either forwards or backwards from that point.
proceed with our diagrams.
to N
of the blade measure, which is halfway between 1 and L; from
and N,
point 4 is halfway between
this locates O
square up from N
be moved forwards to N or further backwards in accordance with the style
but
If the back is to be very shapely, we can move point 4 back as far as point
coat desired.
or if the back is to be straight, we may move it forwards to N.
Point
is
Ya inches
this may
is J/4
From
to
is
^
;
is
23
Xf>P
J
###-
3^H!)C
mnm
DIAGRAM
1.
22##E
24
DIAGRAM
Measure the distance
to point
from
\"
L and measure up
U; from V
to
frniii
to
which
to 11
to
\'
is
yii
is
than the
less
iiH'h
is
to
Ije
rounding
the neck;
Frnm
from VV to
line
in
\'
this case,
\' to
is
by
;
line
this line
howe\er,
i^ breast;
T-U
it
to
is
is
from
from
this locates G;
to 12
from
is
to
necessary
tliis
amount
draw
This
hack shoulder.
of the
}<!,
a line
inch;
is
shape
f<.)r
is
ll,
coat
that
is
to
Ijutlnn
draw
u\t
to
inch; S to 13
G to 15 is 3 inches.
\'
>^
b:-east
\vi<lth
apply
is
this
draw
the same;
distance
a line
square
may
from
down frnm
be increased or
to
K!
X
by
and shape
line
R-S
DIAGRAM
2.
25
26
DIAGRAM
21
to 17.
Now
if
."-^
top.
THE COLLAR
straight crease collar is desired, proceed as follows: licmi \' to 31 is I34 inches;
to where the top button hole
represents the collar stand; draw a line through
from 24 to 25 is I34 inches; shajie the collar stand from 25 through \' into
is placed;
square up from 2.j
inch more than the top width of back
from V to 25 is
the gorge
finish
the collar as
seam;
plus
the
collar
desired
a
from 24 to 2G is the width of
to 24
collars.
kinds
different
of
another
will
show
On
page
we
shown.
If a
this
".
the pocket, proceed as follows; place the s<|uare to line R-.^ and square down
is Vj of the sleeve length plus J/ inch but this may be changed in cases
Under these conwhere the style of sack coat is extremely short or extremely long.
ditions, the distance may be increased or decreased to correspond with the coat style.
To mark
L to 27
from
of the forepart
up
to
.'8
and also
'JO;
the jiocket
Make
up
to 30;
30 to 31
'i
breast and from "JS back to iO the size
wanted, place the square to lines 28-20 and square
inches; square forwards and backwards from 30; from
pocket desired;
if
a ticket pocket
from 28 to 30
is 1
is
inch; 31 to 32
o'/z
is
is
3J4 inches.
'3H!>D
DIAGRAM
.!.
27
iS
DIAGRAM
After the backpart and
111
tltc
inch,
front
Ijefore
fni-ei)art is
tlie
4
cut out place
tlie
slmuldcr a> shown on this (hagrani ami ajjply the oversiiouhler measure plus
from B to L;
if
coi'rect,
DIAGRAM
it
measurement plus
inch
addition
is
as
from Z to
the
until
proper
diagram.
DIAGRAM
In case an artificially high shoulder
fi'om the breast line
shoulder from
tn
say
-J-^
is
up to A, also draw
a line
or jA inch, allowing
to
and
line.
it
raise
il
draw
F-G
as at
reshajje the
a line
open the
This
will
shoulder,
DIAGRAMS
I,
5,
G.
29
^0
DIAGRAM
Should one shoulder be higher than the other, always take your measurements on
Init make your changes on the low side
as shown on diagram 7.
the high side and cut your pattern for that side,
is
lower
the back from 13 to 14 say y^ inch and from 11 to Vl the same; place your regular backpart to point 14 and mark it as per broken line from 12 to 14; now pivot your backpart
resha])e the backpart as per broken
at 12 and swing it until point 10 will strike on line H
line; shorten the forepart from 15 to Ki the same amount as the backpart has been low:
ered from 13 to
14.
DIAGRAM
is
as from
to 2
overlap
it
31
<
o
<
<
32
DIAGRAM
exception that
measure
tlie liladc
is
as described
l.'l
indies instead of
1"?'2
fur
inches.
out from A.
From A
to
is
to
inches;
to J
is
J/^
and
is
^4
tlie
B, C,
(i,
to 2
from V to
line
is
P.
length;
full
I)
the indentatiun
inch;
;
is
and B;
.\
to
1;
inch;
3".'
'/.
is
fmm
to
waist length;
(1
is
the distance of
11
is
to
lA
breast;
(>
inches;
and F;
is
halfway lietween
draw
to 2;
Fl
to
is
FV^
this
in this
this locates
2 to 22;
2.'J
y{^
halfway between
and E.
is
is
locates 24;
1--2
locate ();
M
N
is
halfway between
to
is
t'3
breast;
and F;
j)oint
is
v'.'i
to
1(1
is
'1,
to S
is
(i;Fs
inches;
8 to
!)
is
IJ,-!
inches;
II
scye.
Now
;i.
we have
side seam.
olitained
at
the
center
of
back
will
DIAGRAM
9..
;53
34
DIAGRAM
10
f(ir
diagram
with the
i,
From A
to
is
to
full
is
length;
From C
to 2
is
halfway between
and E.
is
3^ the indentation;
to 22
and
is
J4
is
tlic
waist length;
P.;
(i
is
to
is
distance of
to 2;
(i
halfway Ijetween
draw
inches;
and
l'
a line
to 2
From A to 25 is
F and shape the
25 to
a line from 25 to
!);
I'rcjm
to
The
25 to 11 and 23 to
is
T is halfway between
T through U up.
in
^5^4
the
and S;
inch;
difference between this coat and the normal coat is that whilst the waist is apjilied from
where the 33/) inches are squared down, the division for the shoulder ]joint is always made
by the blade measure.
DIAGRAM
10.
35
-ifi
DIAGRAMS
Diagram
the hackpart
l)y
11.
is
To
1".'.
er at the shoulder
to
Diagram
AND
12
brciken line.
II
To make
seam and
(if
B
is
to be
the back in
after
drawn
making up
in
is
no
coat.
shown bv
DIAGRAM
11.
DIAGRAM
12.
3?
38
DIAGRAM
Diagram
shoulder
al)out
inch;
inch or
to increase the
may
add from
inch
width of
proceed as shown
to
tlie
in this
shoulder.
diagram.
If
an extremely wide
Add from A
to
B and
add from P to
Q ^
to
line.
as
Yi.
shows how
wanted, yi3u
is
11 to 13 say
13
13
This
Of course
width
the armhole
DIAGRAM
k;.
39
14
Tlie
gi^ inches.
Indentation
9^
Scye depth
Waist length
17
Full length
30>4 inches.
Strap
13J4 inches.
17^^ inches.
Overshouhk-r
Blade
13
inches.
38
inches.
Waist
3iy2 inches.
Seat
401/2
inches.
d(_)\vn
to
of
inches.
Breast
S(|uare
inches.
B, C,
(I,
and E.
From C to 2 is ^
C to 2; draw
from
this locates 1
from 1
H
H
K
and H; from K to L is 3'/, inches; square down from L to locate
halfway between
Q; apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13 inches and sc[uare up; M is halfway between 1 and L; M to N is \y^ inches; square up from N to locate O.
;
From N
9
is
13/2
locate
11
to
same distance
is
point 4
breast;
1^-2
as from
to 4
draw
is
a line
THE FOREPART.
From O to S is '< waist; [loint T is halfway between (J and
between F and 1; draw a line from T through U up frcjui Ato
measure plus
inch; draw a line from \ to O; from \' to Z is y^
;
j'4
shoulder width
U
and L to V
S;
II
point
is
halfway
is
the strap
drop the shoulder ^g inch at Z and shape the sliotdder and armscye
as shown.
I-o
to
breast
is 'A
minus
breast plus
y^
inch;
j/2
\'
to
is
'
breast;
X, as explained before, is merely a change for lapel style; draw a line from ^'
to X and shape the gorge; from Q to R is the same distance as from C to 2, in this case
^}i inches; draw a line from R through S; from S to 13 is 1 inch; J to 12 is the same;
and Ki.
this locates points
square down fnjm 13 by line R-S
from
to
(i
to 20
from 23 to
and
is the hip measure; from S back to 14 is 2^ inches; from 5 to 2 and 14 to 18 is the waist
measure plus -Vj inch
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forefrom 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart
I''r(jm
11;
to
1;
is
breast;
from
(i
back to
1-')
i'-
'!
inches;
;!
.")
DIAGRAM
14.
41
43
DIAGRAM
15
Tills diagram shows how to cut an increased or exaggerated size coat without disThe measurements for this coat are the same as given in the
turbing the balance.
previous diagram, except that the waist indentation is normal.
to
From A to B is the
E is full length; F
scye
is
plu^
dt'iilli
inch;
J/(
halfway between
and \L.
waist length:
is
and B;
to
inches;-
is
halfway between
is
Cl
and F;
h'rom
draw
a line
to 2 is
fmm F
J^j
to 3
to locale (J;
apply
tlic
measure from 34
lilade
to
L which
is
From L back
between
between
4;
to
N
ii
to
I.'!
t)
to
.V
10
is
breast;
'o
inch
beliiw 11 to ()
Ijetween
to S
L and
I;
is
y^ waist;
a line
draw
V
to
inch;
from 10
from 30
to 13
the same;
is
to 17 is
j/^
breast;
is
to
T-U;
to 15
li
is
square
(I
'V is
Ijy line
point
from
to
.'>
is
breast;
fi'oni
Iv
draw
draw
a line
through S;
from
round-
to
to F!
is
X
i
li
i)ack to 19 is 3 inches.
IS; draw a line from
same distance as from 5
mended
is 'A
down from
is
^V
breast; V^ to
18 to 31
is
the
This kind of
men.
a jtattern will
IS tliroUL;h
to 7;
".'0
it is
the
same as
specially recom-
DIAGRAM
15.
J4
DIAGRAM
16
Scye depth
Waist length
uy^ inches
inches
SOjA inches
17
length
PTill
Strap
]2ji inches
18
indie's
Overshouklcr
Blade
\3%
Breast
inches
inches
35>2 inches
iiy^ inches
39
\Vaist
Scat
S(|uare (Inwn and out from A.
From A
to
is
scjuare out
to
full
is
li
length;
from G, B, C,
From C
inch;
iialfway Ijctween
is
(_"
and
is 'aist
length;
11;
halfway between
(i
is
to
is 6
inches;
and F;
and E.
inch,
is -"4
J/2
draw
indentation;
from
line
1'"
"i
from A
S to
draw a line from A to
is P/^ inches;
Hi
and
shape
from
line
from
11
b)
to locate 11; draw a
O
to 10 is ''b Ijreast
square up
the back as shown; from Q to S is 'j waist minus ;/. inch; ])oint T is halfway between
O and S; point U is halfway between F an 1 I; draw a line from T through U up; from
inch; ilraw a line from Y to (); from V to
A to 11 and L to \' i^ the stra|) measure i)lus
drop the shoulder 'x "icli at Z and shape
Z is
inch less than the back shoulder width
From A
to S
is
G-)s
inehes;
!)
!l
"'
ing line
fmm
from
J to
cates K;
1'.'
is
K; to
to
'j
1
;.
\'
from
by
(J to
inch smallei'
inch;
b;
is
I,,
line T-II
S to
at
is
v'f
inch
to
draw
13 is the
same;
is
'/.
R through
a line from.
this
square
is
down
done
to
fioni
S.
13
breast.
20
7;
eilge,
locates
10;
l!l
to 20
i- 2
from 5 to 21
bottoni of forepart and finish.
forepart;
iiudies
is
the
12
f>
,J
/^
45
-80^!)C
^ID
22
DIAGRAM
Mi.
46
DIAGRAM
17
down and
Sc^uare
From A
to
to
full
is
is
full
The measurements
as
are the
out from A.
the scye depth plus j4 inch;
length;
halfway between
is
waist length;
is
and B;
to
inches;
and F;
is
halfway between
is
(i
and F.
is
inch;
breast;
to
from
halfway between 1
and 11; from K to L is 3>^ inches; square down from L tn locate Q; apply tlie blade
to N is
measure from 1 to L and square up; M is halfway between 1 and L; from
from
18 to I'J
1}^ inches; square up and down from N; this locates points (J and 18;
inches.
from
111
to 20, 5
is V/> inches; \S to 20 is 0J-2 inches, or make the distance
From C
to
is 1/2
to 2
a line from
draw
is
inches;
1>1>
F through
to J
is
^4
down;
inch;
is
From N
to I'isi'i breast;
'J
il
to
'
}/)<,
forwards from
.S(|uare
\'
by
line
T-U
from
\'
to
is
'
.,
is
breast plus
's
ij
draw
inch;
S to 13
is
inch;
to
12
is
inch
at
the waist.
the same;
DIACR.VM
1'
47
48
DIAGRAM
18
'
Tlic
are as follows:
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length
Strap
IJ^ inches
inches
J 7
inches
3]
inches
13
inches
18J4 inches
];i'< inches
^0
inches
10
inches
i2
inches
S'/?
Overshoulder
Blade
Breast
Waist
Hip
S(juare
down and
I'"nim
to
scpiare out
to
full
is
out from A.
from
(_!,
B, C,
waist length;
is
B;
(1
to
is
halfway between
is
which
is 131/2
;
draw
and F;
and E.
From C
from F to
inches;
C>
to
a line
is
1^
and H from
from 1 to L,
;
is
From
8 is
(i-}4
From A
fruni \' to
to 11
is
and L to
'/(,
From
line
from
23 to 12
(3
.".
at the waist.
Now
25 to 20
is
surplus and
is
2(t
from
21 to 3
is
18
inches;
to 21
and from
\'i
is
to
2.");
measure from
ti>
split
the
IS
as
diagram;
mark
the
to 28.
(Now
see
diagram
19).
DIAGRAM
18.
49
50
DIAGRAM
I'lace tlie
two parts
21)
from
make
clii)
and square up
of
about }i inch
30.
taken out at
throw
2-1-27
between 27 and
Now
line
27,
a little fulness
and
will
this will
the foreiiart
flallcu
is
make
at
U|)
the
necessary for a
for the
front
man
of
corner of the
llii^
])iicket
jiart
This will
of the stomach.
2l5
and
:!'.).
will
and
build.
Notice also the change that has taken place from the thin line tn the hca\ y
liotloni.
at 24;
to 2 is the
to ,50;
lie
19
draw
line at the
a straight line
from
is re-
DIAGRAM
19.
51
r>2
DIAGRAM
20
are as follows:
FIGURE.
]^
inches
O\ershoul(ler
!;!4
inches
Blade
14 inches
Waist length
17
inches
Breast
42 inches
Full length
31
inches
l-'>y>
Waist
Hip
15 inches
inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Strap
i'"rom
to
sciuare out
F^rom
from
is
B, C,
(i,
to 2
is
.inches
17
fmni A.
i.iut
length;
full
is
to
]y inches
is
hallway between
and V..
and
waist length;
is
I"
11;
to 22 is
is
to
halfwa\' hetween
the distance of
J/<
is
(1
A
to 2
iuclies;
and
1'";
draw
from
to H is yi
breast; H to I is ].>4 inches; 1 to j is )'4 inch; K is halfway between 1 and H; K to L
square down from L to locate O ajiply the blade measure from 1 to L which
is 3J/2 inches;
a line
from F to
and from
2,
to 22
and shai)e
center of hack;
tlie
is
locate
is
halfway l)etvveen
O; N
to
is
breast;
From
to
is
1-2
point
waist;
3-^
F"rom IG to 17
and
is i^
Now
_>
IG.
breast
from S back
draw
a straight line
to 2 and 14 to 5 is
from
from 19 to 20 is 2 inches; draw
side of forepart; from 5 to 21 is the same
from 21 to 17.
fo 14 is 2',A inclies;
down from 5 to
down and shape the
square
distance as from 5 to 7;
'
r.
locate 19;
to IS; fnim 18 to 20
apply the hip measure from 19 to 3 and
must be reduced the same as shown on diagrams 18 and 19.
1 Ti
is
surplus and
53
-3-^iD
mS'E
DIAGRAM
ao.
54
DIAGRAM
DOUBLE-BREASTED
The measurements
VA
Full length
Strap
From A
to
to
draw
a line
II to
inches
is
;
17
Breast
38
inches
30>4 inches
131/2 inches
Waist
34^
inches
Seat
40J/4
inches
is
From C
17?^ inches
inche s
13
out from A.
length;
full
is
Overshoulder
Blade
inches
9>^ inches
inches
Scye depth
Waist length
down and
to 2
is
from F to
scjuare
j/4
2
I
inch;
halfway between
and E.
is
indentation which
3^
FV4 inches;
SACK. COAT.
are as follows:
Indentation
S((uarc
21
and
to J
down from L
is
is
is
and B
yl inch;
waist length;
is
to 23
to
is 1/
is 6
inches;
and F;
the distance of
to locate
halfway between
H
K
is 3/2
to
to 2
breast;
is
3)^
Q.
Apply the blade measure from 1 to L which is 13 inches and square up; M is halfway
between 1 and L; M to N is 1^4 inches; square up from N; N to P is 1*2 breast; point
4 is halfway between M and N; from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 draw
from A to 8 is 6^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1^ inches; draw a line from A
a line from 4 to 7
to 9; A to 10 is ^^ breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from ^4 i"ch below
;
11 to
From
to
is
;4
as S to 13
draw
inch;
in this
same
a line
from
through S;
is 3
inches;
square
(>
down from
from S
to
13 is
'^
of the
by
line
R-S
to 13
is
the
G to 15 is
inch less than 13 to 14; from 23 to 3
square up fmm 10 to locate IS;
back
19
is
2
inches;
to
and 15 to 20 is the hip measure; 20
the
side
of forepart: from 18 to 21 is
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and sliape
from 16 to 17 is }i breast; shape the bottom of forepart
the same distance as from 5 to 7
From S back
to 14
is
and
finish.
fish.
5 to 3
l)y
taking
DIACKAM
21
sn
Mi
DIAGRAM
11
'I'lic
Indentation
1,-2
inches
Overshoulcler
1!)
Scye dei)th
!i;}4
inches
Blade
Breast
11 inches
Waist length
:;
Strap
to
inches
is
to
is
length;
full
42 inches
inches
11
diiwii
From A
\t inches
Waist
Hip
inches
i:!>^
Square
inches
IT
Full length
inches
halfway hctweeu
and F.
is
inch;
I/4
waist length;
is
and
to
is
inches;
(i
halfway between
is
(i
I!;
V\
an<l
L' to 2;
draw a line from
seam; from tn 11 is '_. hreast II to I is
inches;
I to J is >4 inch;
K is halfway between and 11; K tn I. is ;!'_. inches; square down
from L to locate (J; a|)ply the blade measure from
tn F whicii is II inches and square
and F; M to N is 1^4 inches; square up from N to locate O.
up; M is halfway between
('
i'"roiu
F'
to 2
and
to
is
.2
y, indentation;
to 22 is Vi the distance nf
!*"
3 to 22;
.Vjj
b'rom
to
distance as from
draw
inches;
is
draw
from
a line
puinl
breast;
i'-
to 4
to
!)
is
halfway between
froiu
line
to
to
in is
'7;
l)reast
'i.
In S
and N; 22 to
G;>^
is
same
the
is
to
!)
is
]J,<
s(puire
inches;
draw
is
to
\V to
is
is
inch or
inches; square
23 to 13
is
breast
'1',
j,i
by
to
down from
13
by
T-LT
line
scpiare
up from
is
line
to
to Icicate
draw
R-S;
breast
1%
the indentation
draw
line
is
2.'!
draw
a line from
from
ti_)
to 18
is
back to
squa-re
is
2>< inches;
1.5
is
ij
down from
IS to locate 10;
Now
of forepart;
1!)
5 to 2
to 20
is
18 to 31
8
is
17.
apply the actual hip measure from 34 to 3 and 15 to 3.5; the distance from 25 to
is 134 inches;
split the forepart open as shown and manipulate in the same
20 in this case
manner
the same distance as S to 13; shape the lapel and front edge.
F^rom S back to 14
and 14
\'
;
as
shown
in
finish.
17
DIACRAM
2-t.
57
58
DIAGRAM
23
8 inches
16^^ inches
Overshoiilder
inches
liulentatiuii
Scye depth
inches
10
inches
Waist
38
inches
Flip
41
inches
Blade
Waist length
17 inches
Breast
Full length
'><)
inches
Strap
11 inches
From A
to
to
is
From C
to 2
distance from
is
to 31 is ^yi inches;
breast;
is
14 inches
to
22 to 7
Draw
same
a line
1^
draw
a line
inches;
to J
down from 31 to
and square up and down
the
is
I is
square
and
As we do
y< indentation.
L which
inch
halfway between
and E.
is
to 22 the
to
is i^
length;
full
is
to locate
O N
;
to
same distance
as
from
to 8
from 4 to
F"'
waist length
is
and B
not want
is
to
tiiis
is
halfway between
inches
and F;
we make
the
F"
to 2
to 4.
is
6^
inches;
to
is
1^
draw
inches;
Now
inch
frnm
and
to 24
to 33;
in
this
inches
short,
therefore proceed as
Measure the distance from 28 to 30 and make the distance from A^ to Z ji inch less;
from V
shape the shoulder and armscye as shown; square forwards from \' l)y line T-U
more
or less
breast
\\'
from
to
X
li
distance
make
the
inch;
plus
is H breast
to
J4
from
forwards
square
brea.st
from
Y
is
to
gorge
desired;
V
of
kind
>^
according to the
is
to
13
through
S
R
S;
inch;
line
from
1
draw
a
to
R
is
gorge;
O
Y and shape the
to
17
this
locates
16
16
line
R-S
square
down
from
13
by
same;
to 12 is the
1 inch;
T
breast; S back to 14 is 2^4 inches square ilown from 11 to locate 15; 19 to 3 and 15
is
;
J/s
to 20
is
From 5 to 2 and 14 to 18 is the waist measure draw a line from IS through 20 down
and sliapc the side of forepart; shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finisli.
:
131)^'
DIAGRAM
23.
59
00
DIAGRAM
24
Indciitatioii
inches
inches
Blade
Breast
;iG
inches
inches
J/2
l'i>-j
Scye depth
Waist length
!()'/>
inches
Waist
o2
inches
Strap
\'i
inches
Seat
:iS
inches
17
inches
(.)\
crshoulder
Sqnare down
I''n>ni
tn
fruni
an<l init
the scye
is
15
y\.
plus J4 inch;
deijtii
waist length;
is
to
inches;
is 6
is
:.'
h'rniii
111
and
between
measure from
1
]:
11
is
'
II;
tM
breast:
1,
tn
II
:','
i>
is
i^
inches;
to
is
inciies;
.;.[
inch;
lu lipcate
<
is
halfway
In
whicli
is
12'
is
.\1
'.).
breast: sc|uare up from 10 to h.icate II; draw a line fruiu '4 inch
Imi'Iii a ti' in is
bclnw II t(i (J and shape the back: ij tn S is j waist; point T is halfway l)etween O and
S pciint li is halfway l)etween L and I draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11
and L to \' is the strap measure plus .;4 inch draw a line fnun \' to O; \' to Z is ^g i'lch less
than the l)ack shoulder width dn>p the -houldcr > inch at Z and >liape the shimlder and arni'1.
'
scye.
by line T-U: from \' to 2:! is ^}^ inches which is for the
draw a line
collar stand; 2:i to \\ is the width nf the collar desired plus 14 i"^'' i^'"' seam
from ^\ through 1: from [J to R is ;4 inch; draw a line, from R to S ,ind s(|uare down;
is 2 inches; 27 to
ami Ki: from Hi to 17 is J4 breast: from l)ack to
this locates points
scjuarc
u]> fnmi 19 to
to
inches;
10
is
back
2
from
90
measure;
seat
is
the
20
15
to
and
from 18 to 21
forejjart
of
2(1
the
side
shape
through
and
IS
from
line
draw
a
locate 18;
Square forwards
fmm
\"
."1
V,
(i
;!
is
.')
to 7;
draw
a line
from
21
to 17.
THE COLLAR
Draw- a
Fnim
the back.
24 to 26
line
is
from
2-1
to
li
2.">
through
is
2;'.
uj)
more than
from
2;'>
to 2d is
inch
2.")
t<A'
DIAGRAM
;i4.
61
G2
DIAGRAM
25
are as follows:
1>4 inches
9^ inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
length
Full
Overshouldcr
Blade
18>4 inches
13>4 inches
inches
Breast
40
inches
'SOi--^
inches
Waist
37
inches
Seat
43
inches
Strap
inches
1 '^
From C
to 2
is
from F to 2 and
I
is l-;4
inches;
to
J is
to
is
to
is
halfway between
6 inches
and F
and E.
J4 indentation
2 to 22
down from L
scjuare
waist length
;
locate
O N
;
halfway between
is
to
is iV
breast
point 4
From Q to S
between L and I
measure plus
-)4
shoulder width
is J.j
point
waist;
a line
by
line
T-U
to I; \V to X is
draw a straight line from
from Y to X and shape the gorge; from Q to
and square down; this locates point G-1G.
From
inch
16 to 17
more than
is
yi breast;
now draw
to 23 is 1^4
li
breast;
is
-^ inch
a line from
24 to 25
t!
is
inches;
to
is
V
'/&
to
breast;
is
breast;
Vg
draw
a line
up thrcjugh
2;i
R-S
from 23 to 24
is
the width of the collar desired; shape the collar and lapel and front edge;
from 6 back to 15 is 2 inches; from 27 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat measure: 20 back
to 19 is 2 inches; square up from 19 to locate 18; draw a line from 18 through 20 down
From 18 to 21 is the same distance as 5 to 7 shape
and shape the side of forepart.
34 to 26
is
DIAGRAM
25.
63
DIAGRAM
Some
seam
side
inches;
134
from 32
to 4 is
to
breast;
is
from
shown
the
same distance
4 to
in this
is JX
inch;
as
draw
to
a
to
is
N; draw
will
I/2
same
be
blade;
a line
line as the
easier to
from
to
to
put
is
tn 7;
:")
;
now
diagram.
From
edge;
19 to
from
If this is
now
of the forepart that the coat will ha\e a better line and
together.
from
if
26
'?>
and
'>
to 20;
point
(i
(>
DIAGRAM
27
65
Pi
66
DIAGRAM
28
FROCK COAT.
Tlie nicasnrcnients arc as fullows:
Indentation
ly^ inches
Scye depth
Natural waist lenj^tli
Fashinnable waist length
Strap
(J\-ersh(
mldcr
ITSg inches
v,s
inches
P.Iade
i;!
inches
\il)^
inclies
ilreast
38
inches
18)/.
inches
Waist
34}^ inches
\-l '/>
indies
!)
From A
to
tj,
is
halfway between
F, B, C, D and E.
is
'''''^'''
i*"
*-
and U
is
1)
fashion-
is
halfway between
and
F'
to
this locates 11
frnm A to U from A to
from J-^ inch below \V to P;
from Q to S is J^ breast; this may be increased or decreased according to style; square up
from S to E from E to 22 is
inches; sweep from 1 through 23 pivoting at 92; from'
to 23 is the same distance as from
to 22 pi\oting at 23 and shajie
to 22; sweep fnim
frdui Al to
is
the side of backpart, taking care that your line is regular and has no digs
to T is 6ys inches;
breast; square up from
From
is
\'
to
is
to locate
draw
IjA inches;
draw
a line
line
1 ;>-4
}4 waist
square
down from
4.
14
DIAGRAM
28.
67
iS
DIAGRAM
29
to
is
]^
inches; point Z
is
(Continued)
lialfway l)etween
and
from
down from
square
"\'
;
to K is
abo\e the waist line
breast
shape
point
is Ij inch less than
breast
is lialfw :iy between
the sidehod_v as shown from
to
is halfway between L and j
point
draw a line from through up from A to W
M and
and L to T is the strap measure plus > inch draw a line from 7 to 1' from 7 to 2IJ is -j^; inch
and shape the shouhlei'
less than the back shoulder width; drop the shoulder -^.s inch at
from
to 2
is
inch
point
is
;!
'
1>
incli
1'.'
'i,
(i
"i
;j
(i
|.
i'^
.':!
and armseye.
Scpiare forwards from
!)
to
from
J-l;
I)
by
line
to Hi in this case
is
")-ri
li
fi-om
']
to
!l
is
'.,
draw
same as
breast;
a rounding' line
from
a sack coat,
may
in
])e
raised
or lowered
in
l'"rom
;>
to
to
12
]'>
is
draw
II
to
a straight line
is
l.')
\yl
from
inches;
THE
SKIRT.
point
up from
to 20,
From Y
down from
;
or
to 25 is 9 inches;
22 to
is
34
'"'-"li
2.")
to 26
is
IJ/^
inches;
'^
20
as
of
of
130)-
DIAGRAM
2'J.
G'J
DIAGRAM
After the hackpart
as follows:
is
elieckcd
olY.
proceed
riace the sidcbody on the forepart and see that the forepart an<l sidehody meet
where the
is
30
tisli
is
they arc sewn together, also hollow the forepart a scant ^4 inch
shown on Diagram
31.
is
o
CO
<
I
Q
<a
71
DIAGRAM
Sliiiuld
i.iiic
sill
the- iitlier
32
iirdcecd as follows;
the
fmck coat
slmulil
always l:)e nieasuix-d and cut for the high shi mlder, as cxiilaiiied for sack coats, and the
change should be made on the low side.
If the difi'erence between one shoulder anil the
other is ^ inch, lower your sidebody from F to G J/2 inch and from D to
the same. Mo\e
point (I ot the sidebody up on a level with the forepart anil shorten the side of the forepart
from 1 to 1 t(.i correspond with the sidebody.
Reshape the sidel.)ody as per broken line.
!".
DIAGRAM
33
coats.
which
This
to
B and overlap
the backpart
73
CO
CO
<
o
Pi
<;
74
DIAGRAM
34
iia'asurcinents arc
measure
is
inches,
I'ij/^
same
tlic
which
as in
jj inch smaller
is
with
'!',
(lia,L;i-ain
liie c.\cei)tiuii
nnrmal.
than
A
A and
l^"|-(ini
between
iM'om
to
is J/j
square
from
t(_)
breast;
down
(i
1!;
to
is
):f
to
J is
to 8 wliich
j,/.
inches;
this h nates
\''\j
is
finni
in
11
(I
.s
F'rom 2 to
is
breast
inches;
to
L'
\'
t(j
locate \V
G-y^
is
'
is
'
_.
and
square up from
i.s
thrnus^h K
is
waist;
_.
tn
apply
ihaw
line
is
frcmi II
inches;
'-'ly^
Idadc measure
point 5
'.I;
frnm
line
from
I,
tlu'
ivvu)
from 34
a line
1'",
i,
inches:
draw
draw
(his lucates
1)4
inches;
and
II
halfway between
is
i\
fnim
-(|uare nut
I'';
F is halfway
B and C.
is
C'
is
L;
froiu
way between
is
1!
Ti
In
:i
is
half-
througli G
is
j/2
the
to U; from 2 to
below \V to I^ and
i"^'l>
DIAGRAM
35
the blade
that
measurement
i--
bl'/.
which makes
inches,
'
it
'^
larcer than
inch
normal.
S(|uare diiwn and out from
From A
y\.
is b.ilfway between
and B; (i is halfway between /\ and U s(juare nut fmm (I, V, B and C; this locates
II; from H to I is JX full breast; I to j is ) '/> inches; J tn If is ji inch; K is halfway between Id and I from K to 8 is 3'S inches; squ ire down from 8 to locate 9; from 9 to 4 is J/^
waist; apply the blade measure from Id to L wdiich is i;!'^ inches and square up and down;
point 5 is half\\a\- between M and
point G is halfway between L and
this locates
G
line
draw
a
from
5
through
up.
J
to
is
I4
inch;
length;
wai'^t
is
1'"
From A
to
to 2
is
inches;
I'
is
from
\'
to locate
draw
a line fr(jm 2 tn
1
J.
F and
inch; from 2 to
2
to
to
is
P and shape
is
lireast
6^
inches;
square up
the Ijack
now
7r)
<
''<
DIAGRAM
36
THREE-BUTTON FROCK.
The
Scye deplli
Waist length
{"ashionahle waist
len.L;tii
length'
l*"ull
(Jxersliuulder
17^^ inehes
inches
l.'i
inches
Ilsj4
inches
Bhide
Breast
.'ifS
inches
inches
Waist
IJO
inches
as
folluws;
inche-;
I'." J
This
the kind
is
l'"nini
In
waist length:
I'^roin
t(i
11
fri
nn
(i,
h',
tci
1
is
'/<
to
is
made
Id
inches
draw
a line
hVeast
fri lui
tn
waixt length;
and
L'>
L'
tu
fashii nialile
is
L)
is
(i
!'_.
thiuugh R tn
inches;
down
to
'21 is
same distance
the
<J
In
II
'4
inch;
M;
1\
to locate
is
halfway between
fi'iini
is ]'>
is
square
inches;
is Si-/,
frcjm
(' is
1)
L which
11
J/:^
inch;
'.|
halfway lictween
and \i.
is
C'.
I!,
iudentatiou
'j
is
fmui
stunt
neilhci
is
depth plus
length;
full
is
I'',
1'";
that
fmin A.
mit
the sc\
i>
1!
a cnal
cif
duwn and
S(|nare
a line
indies
;!S
Strap
and
!i>8
Ki' j
as from
II
to
is
apply
II
draw
to 2-k
to
I'rom
\'
is
to
is f;.\s
breast;
'.,
inches;
s(|uare
1':;
'i
'!
From
.M to 4 is
w'aist
s(|uare d<iwn
(i
<i
'1
!l
I)
according to style;
to 10
From
back
')
to 27 in this case
is 1'4'
inches
7 to 8 is )s breast;
;
o to 12;
is
fore,
it
re(iuires
l-iito
l.j
ij
inch
Ij/^
for
less
inches;
4 to K!
is
the same.
THE
Sipiare
the
same distance
point 3;
as 22 to
to
2.")
from 22 to
i:i;
is 9
lH is
SKIRT.
inches;
I4
inch
2.'J
and
to
2(i
is
'
finish.
10
to
18;
draw a line
from 12 to IS
? i'l^^'i below
inches;
to 17;
point 16
is
l)IA(iRAM
:!(i.
77
^s
DIAGRAM
37
THREE-BUTTON SACK.
We
(iflen
small
a college trade,
is
young
waists.
will
men
of cutting will priMhicc a cnat fur the athlete with a large lireasl
method
The measurements
are
as
of athletic build
how
sliow
and
the
same
a small waist.
follows:
Indentation
inches
Ovcrshonldcr
l7-j4
inches
Scye depth
'^-ji
inclies
Pdade
13
inches
Waist length
17
inches
IJreast
38
inches
Full length
30
inches
Waist
33
inches
Strap
12^4
inches
Scat
/lO
inches
to
of
to
.\
frnni
.\.
is
'4
halfway between
square out finm G, B, C, I) and ]i.
full
is
From C
to
length;
to 2
is
h'
is
li
.md
draw
inch;
a line
from
is
(i
11;
to
IJ
G inches;
is
A and
halfway between
F;
inch;
!"
wai^t k-iiglh,
is
in this case }i
2,
iiu
to 3
to J is >4
to I is \y inches;
!1
1; from ] to H is y, breast;
halfway between 1 and 11; K to L is 3!/ inches; square down from L to locate
to I- which is 13 inches and s(piare up.
apply the l)Iade measure from
of back;
inch;
this locates
is
(J;
Point
Al
to locate
,'1',
Add
an extra ji inch
at 19;
from
to S
is
Js
point
T
T
<
draw
I;
line
from
\\' is Va
is
Vg,
13
to
is
inch;
is 1
J to 12 is the same;
6 to 15 is 3 inches;
inch
square
draw
a line
down from
13
.">
about
if
desired.
fish
a little larger
now
fish,
which
start the
is
under-arm
placed about
fish
inch from
the front of the pocket to strike about the center of the brea.st pocket; cut the pocket open
on a line parallel with the
from the front fish to the side fish and take out a small
under-arm
fish
as
shown
ofif
From
18 to 21
is
IH to 17
is
>^ breast;
DIAGRAM
70
so
DIAGRAMS
38
AND
39
FROCK COAT FOR A LARGE BRFAST. SMALL WAIST & SLIGHTLY SWAY-BACK.
This coat
cut
is
the
i)y
From A
is
V.
and
l'
I'mni
thrnugh
Ij,^
to
In
down frnm L
distance as
1)
is
1'.;
is
(1
fashion-
is
halfway l)etween
-j-j
tn
N is
fmm
s(|uare up;
C,
?>,
is
is
(j
t(i
inches;
inches
inclu's
In
(_'
Iv
1"".
(1,
inch;
'4
length;
full
is
^^Va
;!S
I'nim A.
tlie
is
leni^th
l''uil
thai
-.'I
In
II
ilraw a line
tn?l.
()
I'rnni
Frnm A
is
!(,
in
inches;
is (i.)s
tn
is
From
() tn
'/.
is
I'i
breast;
draw
inch;
siiniilder
inch
'.s
Frnni
and
:i\
II
tn
is
'/>
(1
'i.'l
line
is
I.-)
:!
l)y line
frnni
fmm
"i-li
thrnugh
from
tn
It
In
and shape
10
1^4 inches; 4 to Fi
as the distance
is
is
!i
plus
breast
'.,
J4
inch;
Id is
same ;imnunt
the
pnint
II
!>
draw
inch;
vi
pnint
"i
is
'i
is
"i
at
tn
is halfway between L
halfway between M and I;
is the strap measure
tn
llimugh
1
up; fr(Mii A tn
and L
'
.';!
1';
In 1'; di'np the
frnm T tn
line fmni
to
is -Jx incli less than
and shape the slmnldcr and armscve.
".'11
pnint
plus
'.'1
:^'.i
tn Incate
tlie
the same;
is
a
j,s
vJS
gorge.
l)etweeii
draw
tn S
is
and
and
'!'>
linisli
of tiie cnat.
THE
In this case the skirt
".')
frnm
if
to
;!li
is
!.l
inches;
case
tn
:ii)
as follows;
draw
inch;
:!i
is
'
_>
frnm
inches;
tn
JM
a line
frnm
draw
this
it
to X]
and
draw
skirt as
:!:>
a line
is
'4
fmiu
slinwn and
2.j
:12
2.")
;
2ii
is
I'l inches;
inch
.'l-'l
tn
[)lace
tn S; jjnint
Iniish.
1(1
is
'!0
line
in
inch always;
fnim
[o
fmm
22 through
the fnllnwing
;^)l
1!)
down;
M-Y
manner;
to
to oO
down;
to 17
5s inch
'1
is
III
2(1
made
is
is
SKIRT.
12 tn 18
same distance
as 22
edge
the
is
belnw pniiu
:1
DIAGRAM
38.
DIAGRAM
;il)
81
S3
DIAGRAM
FROCK COAT
This coat
is
the same as
19 to 20
is 3/2
flat
and the
to 25
is
case
^/^
inches;
inch;
25 to 26
from
place the
is
to 19
is J^
square to points
IjA inches;
finish
your
as usual.
The normal
is
is
indentation, in thi
from
(Continued)
inch always;
40
indentation
no need to go up-from
is
to 19,
.)4
when
the indentation
is
is
normal, there
the waist
line.
DIAGRAM
40.
83
84
DIAGRAM
41
are as follows:
1^
9^
inches
Strap
13
inches
inches
18^
inches
16^
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13>-j
inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
40
inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length according to style
18J/ inches
From
and F
From C
down;
to
is
inch
is
halfway between
square out from G, F, B, C, D and E.
waist length
to
this locates
length
full
is
is
1/2
is
indentation
H; from
to
draw a
is
and B
breast;
and I
square up from 14; K is halfway between
to
apply the blade measure from
L to locate
to J
to
is
]^
is
through
inches;
fashionable
is
halfway between
R to Q
and square
J to 14 is }i inch;
is
to 24
same distance
the
is
From A
is Vb
from
to S
is
from A to
is 6^ inches
T to U is V/i inches draw a line from A to
to P
draw a line from }i inch below
square up from V to locate
square down from S and shape the back.
breast
to
breast
THE SIDEBODY
from O to 36 is A breast; point Z
shape the sidepoint 3 is yi inch above the waist line
is halfway between Y and M
to 4 is ^ waist; square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to
body as shown; from
12 is y2 inch less than % breast; 12 to 34 is, 3,^ inch; draw a line from 3 to 34; now
draw a straight line from 22 to 12 point 35 is where the two lines cross cut out a small
V at 35 hollow the waist seam slightly from 3 to 35 as shown in this diagram.
F>om X
to
is
from
1>4 inches;
to 2
is
^4 inch;
point 5
is
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-(5, also square forwards from 6 by the same line
draw
breast
from 7 to 9 is % breast 9 to 10 is the same from 7 to 8 is
a line from 8 through 10 and shape the gorge; from 4 back to 27 is 1% inches; from Z to
add from 37
shape the side of forepart
Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net
to 15, 1J4 inches and from 4 to 13 the same and shape the front edge.
this locates 37
THE SKIRT
Square down from Y; from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches; draw a line
from 22 through 26 down from 22 to 32 is J^ inch more than from S to 17 from 34 to 18
is the same distance as 22 to 32; draw a line from 32 to 18; point 16 is yg, inch below point
inch at 26.
3
shape the skirt and finish, rounding the latter
;
The checking
other coats.
17
DIAGRAM
41.
32
85
8G
DIAGRAM
42
are as follows
Indentation
!]/>
inches
1)^ inches
Scye depth
inches
1?
Natural waist length
18^ inches
Fashionable waist length
Full length, whatever the style calls for.
down and
Scjuare
is
P""rom
to
is
to locate
-yi
to (J
From A
draw
to
4"^
inches
Waist
i-j
inches
F, B, C,
draw
and E.
K
;
halfway between
is
from
("i,
H; from
from
inches
Q;
to
inches
11
to
1!J
Blade
Breast
this locates
13 '^ inches
(,)\ersliiiulder
out from A.
I''rom
Strap
a straight line
to J
is
l^^ inches;
I;
to
to L is 3^^.
L which is 14
to 24
from
iV
inches;
through
inch;
square
down
J to 14
is
is
a line
is (ifs
inches
to
is
inches
;54
draw
a line
from
to
from
to
inch below
to P
square up from V to locate W" draw a line from
square down from S and shape the back. This being a corpulent
34 breast
from
square down from 4
to 4 is J^ waist
coat, the waist suppression is made as follows
this locates 11; from 11 to 13 is 14 inch less than H breast; 12 to 34 is )4 inch; from 4
is
from
breast
to S
is
to
R and
27 to
is
this leaves
Square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is .;4 inch; point Z is halfway Ijetween Y and M:
from O to 36 is A breast; draw a line from 36 to Z; point 3 is yi inch aljove the waist line:
shape the sidebody with a slight hollow from 22 to 3, also draw a line from 3 to 34; now
draw a straight line from 22 through 12; this locates 35; cut out a small V at 35; shape the
bottom of the forepart the same as shown on diagram 41.
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 also square forwards from 6 by the same line; this
to 37; from 9 to 10 is the
locates 37; from 7 to 9 is % breast; draw a rounding line from
lireast
from
8 thrcjugh 10 and shape
draw a line
depth of the gorge desired; 7 to 8 is %
skirt
The
is made in the same
the gorge; from 37 to 15 is 1J4 inches; 4 to 13 is the same.
on
about
inch or the
manner as shown in diagram 41 with the exception that at 31 add
amount that the front part and sidebody o\'erlap at 3.
fl
DIAGRAM
42.
s?
88
DIAGRAM
43
Indentation
12f4 inches
18
inches
Strap
>4 inches
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
9J^ inches
Wyi inches
Overslioulder
Blade
i'iji
inches
18^4 inches
Breast
-VJ
inches
Full length
37
inches
Waist
Sbyi inches
From A
to
and F
is
is full
From C
to
is
1/2
indentation
H; from
K is
'"^''i
'
is
halfway between
B, C, D and E.
length;
is
draw
to
a straight
is
and B;
from
line
(i
is
,D
fashion-
through
to
and
to J is IJ/2 inches; J to 14 is
Syi inches; s'quare down from L to locate
yi breast;
is
halfway between
is
halfway
to
A to is
is 1J4 inches; draw a line from A to
to T is 6^, inches; T to
inch
below
P Q to
draw
line
from
to
a
square
from
to.
locate
up
V
'A breast;
J4
i/^ breast;
is
inches;
to
the
back;
X
to
Y
1
2 is
from
and
shape
square down
S
S is
1J4
point
is
inch
above
and
3
A
halfway
between
Y
inch
O to is breast point Z is
J^
From A
than
From
to 4
is J/2
breast
waist; square
point 5
is
draw
a line
from
3 to 12;
THE SKIRT
Square down from Y to 25, 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1>4 inches; draw a line from 22
12 to 18 is the same disinch more than from S to 17
through 26 down; 22 to 19 is
tance as S to 17 shape the skirt from 22 to 16
cut out a fish at 16; leave the front and
skirt whole and finish.
DIAGRAM
43.
8!)
:'0
DIAGRAM
44
are as follows
;-
Indentation
IJ/^
inches
Strap
13
Scye depth
9^
inches
Overshonlder
Blade
1834 inches
13J-2 inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
37
inches
Waist length
17
18}^ inches
is
inches
desired.
inches
From A
to
the scye depth plus 34 inch; C is natural waist length; D is fashionis full length; F is halfway between A and B;
G is halfway between
is
F, B, C.
and E.
from A to U A to \'
draw a line from '4 mch below ^\' to P O
square up from V t(_i locate
is /i breast
to S is 34 breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to Y is 1 34 inches; square
breast point Z is halfway between Y and M
down from Y 1 to 2 is J4 i'T-'h O to K is
point 3 is 34 inch above the waist line shape the sidebody.
From A
to
6%
is
inches;
to
is
\\'
inches;
13-4
draw
a line
i'if
from 11 to 12 is 34 inch
square down from 4; this locates 11
halfway between
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
J
drop
inch less than the back shoulder width
draw a line from 7 to P 7 to 23 is
)4 inch
square forwards from 7
inch at 23 and shape tlie shoulder and armscye
the shoulder
by line 5-6; 7 to D is /^ breast plus 34 inch; draw a rounding line from 9 to 14; from 9 to
7 to 8 is 3/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 14 to 15
10 is Ve brea.st
is 134 inches; 4 to 13 is the same; place the straight edge to line 4-12 and make a mark at 29.
From
less
than
Vb
to 4
is
34 waist;
breast; point 5
is
Sweep from
12 forwards
THE SKIRT
If a close-titting skirt is desired,
the skirt
line
9
shown here
is
inches;
is
at 12
I34 inches;
square
draw
is
down from
a line
made
in the
as follows;
cutaway frock;
draw a straight
from 20
20 by that line
from 20 through 26 down.
;
to 25
From
to 18;
25 to 2G
it
20 to 18
is
34 inch
at 26.
is
as 20
skirt
DIAGRAM
14
01
92
DIAGRAM
45
follows:
are as
Indentation
I3/2
inches
Strap
13y^ inches
Scye depth
Natural waist length
9^
inches
19
17
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
14
inches
183/2
inches
Breast
42
inches
Waist
42
inches
inches
From
waist length
to
is
is full
length
inch
is
halfway between
and E.
is
and B
is
fashionable
is
halfway between
and
to
is
1/2
through
a line
From
breast
Vb
to S
is
square
from
to
to 24.
is
down from
between
From
6^
inches
to
is
1^
inches
draw
a line from
A to U A
and
from
to 2
point 3
is
is
3^ inch
inch
to
is
line
breast
halfway
V
;
is
1^
inches;
is
halfway
is
W to
point 22
to
inch;
draw
a line
from
7 to
inch at
from 7 to 23 is
inch less
23 and shape the shoulder and
;
armscye.
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6, also square forwards from 6 by the same line this
from 6 to 9 is Vb breast; draw a rounding line from 9 to 32; from 9 to 10 is
draw a line from 8 through 10 and shape the gorge 32 to
7 to 8 is ^/^ breast
Vb breast
19 is 134 inches; 4 to 31 is the same; shape the front edge from 19 through 31; from 4
back to 27 is 1% inches; 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape the
;
locates 32;
side of forepart.
Now draw a line from 3 to 15 also draw a straight line from 20 to 12 point 16
two lines cross; cut out a small V at 16 place the straight edge to points
make a mark at 29; from 12 back to 30 is 2^4 inches; sweep from 30 forwards to
;
the
is
where
and
12-4
13 pivot-
ing at 29; shape the bottom of forepart hollowing the line slightly between 3-16.
THE SKIRT
Place the square to line 20-16 and square
IJ/2
inches;
draw
a line from
2ii
down
to 25;
20 to 25
is
is 9
inches; 25 to 26
is
S to 17 from 13 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; square down from 13 by the waist
inch rounding at 26.
In cutting out this skirt,
line; shape the bottom of skirt and add
there is nothing taken out between 12 and 15; the skirt is cut straight through from 20 to
;
16,
30 and 12 to 13.
28
DIAGRAM
45
93
!U
DIAGRAM
46
are as follows:
Strap
Oversh( lulder
V^}^ inches
18
inches
Blade
13%
inches
inches
Breast
39
inches
Waist
3."i><
inches
inches
Indentation
IJ/2
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
9>^ inches
Scjuare
down and
From A
to
".
16^4 inches
18>1.
out from A.
the scye depth plus
is
3/4
incli;
is
to
From A
to
to J
to
154 inches;
is
draw
and B
IjA inches;
is
is Gyg,
to 24
inches
same distance as
the
is
to
is
lyi inches
to
draw
is
is
fashion-
is
halfway between
through
J to
to
and square
is halfway
inch;
is
a line from
to
to
'/,
is
square up from
to locate
draw
to 36 is
From
a line
waist
square
down from
this locates
36;
11;
11
to
12
is
j',
inch
).'.
From
9 to 10 is Ih breast;
7 to 8 is >^
from
same; now add to the right front from 30
same shape the front edge from 36 back
27 to 21 is the waist measure net; shape
the gorge;
now add
draw
a line from
to 27 is 254 inches
to
and shape
10
14 to 32 and 36 to 35 the
32 to 19 and 35 to 31 the
to
breast;
from 22 to Y,
to
and
THE SKIRT
follows: from Y to 25 is 9 inches; 25
20
through
26 down; 20 to 18 is % inch more than
from
to 26 is
distance
as
20
to
same
18; point 3 is ^ inch below 34; shape
is
the
28
from S to 17; 12 to
26.
inch
at
it
rounding
the skirt and finish,
ys,
If a slightly flaring skirt
This coat may also be used for a Knights Templar coat.
shown
on
44.
diagram
made
as
is desired, the skirt may be
If a close-fitting skirt is desired, proceed as
iy2 inches;
draw a
line
THE COLLAR
The
standing collar
is
made
as follows:
draw
a line
from 10 through 7;
from 10 to 16
of which
J-S
into the
from
collar
16
the
Shape
would be iy%, the distance from
of
coUar
the
heighth
is
the
to
15
16
that
line;
from
Hi
to
by
gorge and square up from
c(_illar
as
shown.
desired plus two seams; shape the
is
inch,
10 to 16
1
-"i
i.
e.,
if
would be
85^.
is
15>4 inches,
95
)A
dia(;k.\ai
iG
96
DIAGRAM
47
CASSOCK
The meaburements
are as follows
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
inches
Strajj
l^yi inches
17
inches
17^
inches
1(SJ{,
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13
inches
Full length
50
inches
Breast
38
inches
to the feeti.
Waist
H^/2 inches
'J}i
From
A to B
waist length
is
length
is full
is
is
halfway between
and E.
and B
fashionable
is
halfway between
is
and
and from y to
breast
E from H to I is
I to J is IJ/2 inches
^ inch K is halfway between
J to 14
H and I K to L is 3}i inches square down from L to locate M apply the blade measure
from H to L which is 13 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O is 1^
inches; A to 24 is the same distance as from H to O; draw a line from O to 24.
From C
to
is
inch
1/2
through
is
to
is
6}i inches;
to
From A
draw
to
to locate
Y
Y
and
lyi inches;
is
draw
a line
from
draw
to
U A
;
to
is
breast;
square up from
point Z
is
halfway between
body.
From
to 4 is
J-^
waist;
scpiare
down from
4;
from
11
to 12 is ^4
breast;
less
and armscye.
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6 from 7 to 9 is >^ of the collar size worn plus ^ inch
from 9 to 10 is Ye breast; 7 to 8 is J/^ breast; draw a
a rounding line from 9 to 14
line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; now add for the left front from 10 to 29, yi inch;
14 to 15 and 4 to 13 the same; for the right front add from 29 to 30, IJ/2 inches and from
13 to 36 the same; square down from 13 and 36 by the waistline.
;
draw
add on to the back as from Q to 23 and E to 34, 41/2 to 5 inches also add from S
and
from 17 to 32 the same amount as has been added from Q to 33 add from Y to 1(>
to 31
These
amount
as has been added from S to 13, all the way down the same.
the same
side.
inverted
one
on
each
into
three
center
and
plaits,
one
in
the
additions are to be made up
Now
THE COLLAR
Draw
a straight line
sizes
6a()-i3'
DIAGRAM
47
97
''^<
DIAGRAM
48
coat
is
The measurements
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length
Strap
to be easy
are as follows
Overshoulder
F'rom
is full
:.
down and
.Square
16J/S
inches
Blade
Breast
33
inches
12
inches
17
inches':
inches
A to B
12}4 inches
38
inches
Waist
34J/>
inches
Seat
40^
inches
'.
out from A.
is
length;
out from G, B, C,
is
6 inches
to
and F; square
and E.
From C to 2 is ^S indentation square down from 2 shape the center back from F to 3
from 1 to H is 3/2 breast; H to I is 1^ inches; I to J is ^4 inch; K is halfway between 1
and H
K to L is 3yi inches square down from L to locate Q apply the blade measure
from 1 to L which is I214 inches and Square up
is halfway between 1 and L;
to N is
1^ inches; square up from N; N back to 4 is 14 inch; 22 to 7 is the same distance as 1
draw a line from 4 to 7 N to P is A breast A to 8 is 6}i inches 8 to 9 is IJ/S inches
to 4
draw a line from A to 9.
;
From
below 11 to
to 10
draw
by
T-U
line
to J
V to W
to X is
is
Vt,
of the collar
14
breast
to
is
inch; J
and shape the gorge; X to 26 on the left front is
place the square
are the same; from Q to R is ^4 inch, J^^ ,the indentation
square down, also square down from 13.
from
to
3.-2
to 12
and S to 13
R-S and
to point.
THE COLLAR
Draw
worn,
/'.
a line
if
e.,
from
thrtiugh
worn
Y
is
to 23
from
to 23
two
is
sizes
DIACl^IAM
IS
99
100
DIAGRAM
49
DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK
The measurements
arc as follows:
>1>
inches
Strap
Scye depth
Natural waist length
'*}'2
inches
-l(i)l>
inches
Uvershoulder
Blade
18^4 inches
Indentation
From A
to
waist length
B is the
E is full
From C
to
is j/2
H;
to
inch
Waist
35}4 inches
is
and B
through
F,
I is j/2
is
breast;
to J is
1^
N
A
O
T
to
to
is l>it
inches;
is (>}^
square up from
breast; square
draw
a line
from
fashionable
is
halfway between
is
to
is halfway
J to 14 is 1 inch;
from L to locate
apply the blade
}i inch
below
halfway between
draw a line from
is
to locate
inches;
inches;
inches
inches
39
13^
halfway l)etween
B, C, D and E.
length
2)4 inches
inches
Breast
^^kii^''^
this locates
18
to
U A
;
to
to
P; from
H
O
and L
to 24
is
'A,
breast
to
is
j^
the l)ack.
THE SIDEBODY
From X
is
to
inch; O to K
1J4 inches; square down from Y; from 1 to 2 is
halfway between Y and M; point 3 is 3,^ inch above the waistline;
22
breast;
is
is
THE FOREPART
From
to 4
Vt:
is
y^ waist;
breast;
square
point 5
L and J; draw
plus )4 inch; draw a
the shoulder and armscye.
a line
is
(i
Square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; 7 to 9 is 'f, breast plus )4 inch; add J4 inch for
through H down; from 9 to 10 is Vo breast;
seam at 4 and shape the front edge from
S
from
to
10
and sha])e the gorge; 4 back to 27 is 2J4
7 to S is y^ breast; draw a line
is
the
waist measure net; shape the side of forepart.
inches; 22 to Y, X to R and 27 to 21
!i
THE REVER
Draw
at
12 forwards
at 29;
sweep from
make
K) to 29 pivoting
THE SKIRT
if a slightly flared skirt is desired, square down
inch more
proceed as follows: go up from 20 to 30,
or less according ti) the amount of drapery desired; draw a line from 16 to 30 and square
down by tliat line to 25; from 30 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1^ inches; draw a line
inch more than from S to 17; from 12 to 28
from 30 through 26 down; from 30 to 18 is
square down from b! by the waist line; finish the skirt
is the same distance as 30 to 18;
Draw
from
20.
If
more
flare is desired,
as
shown, rounding
it
^s inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
41)
101
102
DIAGRAM
50
are as follows;
inches
Strap
13i4 inches
inches
17
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
18%
inches
1^
9^
Indentation
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
['nil length whatever style
From
waist length
to
From C
from
to
I is J/2
to
is
]%
inches
Waist
42
inches
B,
F,
(".,
C,
indentation
'/>
is
breast
and
blade measure from
42
way between
inches
Breast
is
is full
to
from A.
(lUt
F;
calls for
inches
1!)
K
U>
and E.
draw
a line
from
through
to
3^
L which
inches: from
is
to 24
the
half-
M apply the
halfway between H and L:
to O; draw a line from O to 24.
is
K is
same distance as
FT
is
is Vb
to
breast
to 4 is
3/4
waist;
breast;
square
12 to 15
is
down from
->4
this
4;
from
hjcates 11;
to
15;
to
II
jioint
is
.12
is
]<
half-
up
Draw
a straight line
from 20 to 12;
this locates
point
and
16;
cut
out
small
at
10;
16.
THE REVER
from
Draw a straight line from 19 up to 29; sweep from 10 to 29 ])i\()iing at
shape the
back to 32 is 2J/ inches; sweep from 32 forwards to 13 ])i\'oting at 2!l
bottom of forepart; make the width of the rever according to style.
I'.i
12
THE SKIRT
Square down from 20 by line 16-20; from 20 to 25 is 9 inches; 25 to 26 is 1 1/$ inches;
draw a line from 20 through 26 down; from 20 to 18 \s% inch more than from S to 17;
]!)
to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; square down from 13 by the waist line; finish
the skirt rounding
it
inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
50
103
104
DIAGRAM
51
are as follows:
I3/2
inches
Strap
i'-^H
9^
inches
Overshouklcr
Blade
19J4 inches
14J4 inches
Breast
43
inches
Waist
46
inches
.-
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length according to style
17
inches
18^
inches
inches
From
A to
waist length
is
is full
length
From C
is
inch
is
halfway between
and E.
is
and B
tinough
H and L; from N
draw a line from O
tween
to
From
V is
to
6^
is
to
H
O
L which
to
is
M%
inch;
square
to 24
is
is
fashionaljle
halfway between
is
to
and
down from L
to locate
is
to
is
halfway bedistance
the same
as from H
is
is
to 34.
inches;
to
is
from
to P
draw a line from j4 inch below
to locate
square up from
to 4 is I/2 waist;
from Q to S is 5^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; from
square down from 4; this locates 11; from 11 to 12 is J/^ inch less than % breast; 13 to 15
to
is
breast
}^
J4 inch.
From
this waist
sidebody and the forepart square down from Y from 1 to 2 is }i incli O to Z is i'= breast
inch above the waistline shape
points 21 and 22 are
point 3 is halfway between Y and
or
the sidebody and also the side of forepart, overlapping it between 31 and 33 about
and 4 G is halfway between L and J draw a line from 5
inch point 5 is halfway between
;
through 6 up.
From
7 to 33
is
A to
W and L
to 7
is
% inch
draw
a line from 7 to
P from
;
From
gorge
point 16
16,
9 to 10 is
breast; 7 to 8
is
J4 breast;
draw
a line
from
8 to 10
draw a line from 32 to 15 now place the square to point 20 and draw a line to 19
hollow the Ijottom of forepart slightly between 22 and
is where the two lines cross
;
a small
at 16.
THE REVER
Draw
to 32
is 2J/2
forepart
make
THE SKIRT
Square down from 30 by line 16-30 from 20 to 25 is 9 inches from 35 to 26 is l^A inches
square down from 19 and 13 by the waist line from 30 to 18
a line from 30 through 36
from 19 to 28 is the same distance as 20 to 18; sweep
is j4 inch more than from S to 17
from 32 to 34 pivoting at 28 shape the top of skirt from 30 through 16 to 34 finish the skirt
;
draw
rounding
it
inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
:.l
105
106
DIAGRAM
52
Tlie
Strap
13
inches*
inches
U\ershoul(lcr
17
inches
inches
Blade
Breast
12>-1
inches
30
inches
Waist
32
inches
Indentation
V/2 inches
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length whatever style
9
16J/'
I834 inches
calls for
From A
tween
to
and F
is
and E.
From C
to
is
indentation;
draw
from
a line
From A
breast
is Yb
to S
is
to
Yf,
is
G^
inches;
may
be
breast or
from
the hack;
square up from
to
tn
to locate
made
if
from A to U; A to V
from
below
to P
square down from S and shape
draw a
inches;
draw
smaller
1J4 inches;
is
is
/,
line
a line from ^4
so desired
i"*-"li
down from Y.
square
From
to 2
is
-yj,
inch
(J to
>4 inch
is
line
is
1*5
breast
point
is
THE REVER
a straight line from 14 through 27 up; make the width of the rever according to
and also make the length of the rever to correspond with the front and skirt strap;
from 4 back to 30 is 2>4 inches; Z to Y, X to R and 30 to 21 is the waist measure net;
shape the side of forepart.
Draw
style
THE SKIRT
From Y
34 to 19
to 19;
is
to 25
14
draw
is 9
inch
inches; 25 to 20
is
1 >{.
down;
it
54
From
skirt
and
19 to 18
finish
is
the
rounding
it
same distance
inch at 26.
as 15 to 16;
draw
a line
22(S^
DIAGRAM
5a
1<>'
108
DIAGRAM
53
are as follows
Indentation
IJ/^
inches
Strap
13
Scye depth
Natural waist length
9^
inches
18^4 inches
16%
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13J/2
inches
ISyi inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
40
inches
inches
From A
waist length
to
is tiie
scyc deptli
is full lengtii
jjIus >4
inch
is
halfway between
and E.
is
and B
is
is
fashionable
halfway between
antl
From C
to
is
y, indentation
draw
a straight line
a line from A to U
A to V
from )4 '"^^li 'je'tjw
from
to P
inches;
Y
is
the
back;
from
X
to
and
shape
from
S
"/^
square
down
1%
breast;
to
is
S
Q
point Z is halfway
from 1 to 2 is }i inch O to K is A breast
square down from Y
above
Waist line; shape
inch
the
to
Z
point
is
from
K
line
draw
a
>2
between Y and M
From A
is
to
inches
is ii}i
square up from
breast;
Vb
to
is
to locate VV
>^ inches
;
draw
draw
a line
''>
the sidebody.
From
to 4 is >^ waist;
square
down from
draw
this locates
from' 11 to 14
11;
is
j/l
halfway
draw a line from 5 through 6 up;
is halfway between L and J
and 4; point
between
inch; draw a line from 7 to 1'; from ;
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
from A to
to 23 is ys inch less than the back shoulder width; shape the shoulder and'armscye.
inch less than
breast; 14 to 15
is
}i inch;
from
a line
(!
to
15;
point 5
is
-j-:^
'.
'J
'
1.
.>lj
.!
1)
ing
it
ys inch at 26.
THE REVER.
The
rever
is
made
in
the
same way
DIAGRAM
.'):!
]()!!
no
DIAGRAM
54
IN ONE.
are as follows;
Indentation
1^4 inches
Strap
Scye tlepth
Waist length
9^
(Jvershoiilder
IGyi inches
Blade
13
inches
18^
Breast
38
inches
inches
inches
Waist
down and
S(|uarc
iM'om
to
waist length;
12J4 inches
l'i}i inches
34}4 inches
out from A.
is fashioniible
C is natural waist length
B is the scye depth plus j4
E is full length; F is halfway between A and B; G is halfway between A and
i'l*-"'!
I-^,
B, C,
L.)
and E.
From C
to
is
II to 1 is 1/ lireast
A to U; A to \"
to P; from
draw a line from 34 '""-'h lielnw
from
to
is
and
the
back;
X
Y
down
from
S
shape
is
\y4 inches;
Q to S
A
inch;
point
Z
is
halfway
beis
K
is
breast;
from
1
to
2
to
down
from
Y;
O
square
%
inch
abo\-e
the
waistline;
shape
the
sidebody.
is
point
3
2
tween V and M;
3
From A
to
is 6)4,
inches;
square up from
3^ breast; square
breast;
is Vi
to
to locate
is
W;
From
than
Vi
to 4 is 34 waist
breast;
point 5
is
(i
.j
From
back to 30
is
2^4 inches;
from
.\
.'!
ing to style.
THE
From Y
to 25
is 9
inches; 25 to 26. is
3/'2
SKIRT.
inches; draw
a line
from 2 J to 10 is 3/4 inch more than from S to 17; from 10 to 2!) is the same distance as
from 21 to 10; draw a line from 10 to 29; from 20 to 13 is '^ the distance of from 20
to 24; from 19 to 18 is the same distance as from 20 to 12; draw a line from 18 to 12;
inch
shape the top of skirt from 24 through 27, dropping it }i inch at
from 3 to 27 is
Finish the skirt rounding it ->s inch at 26.
12.
#26
DIAGRAM
54
111
11^
DIAGRAM
This coat
is
The measurements
Diagram
55
except that
54,
it
is
are as follows
1^
9^
Indentation
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length whatever style
inches
Strap
inches
13JX inches
inches
19
17
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
14
inches
18^
inches
Breast
43
inches
Waist
42
inches
calls for
From A
to
waist length
is fashionable
C is natural waist length
the scye depth plus J4 inch
G is halfway between A and
length F is halfway between A and B
is
is full
and E.
a line from
is
to
6^
is
inches;
''-
from 11 to 14 is J/^
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
and J draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
inch less than
to P shape the shoulfrom
7 to 23 is
to
P
7
line
from
draw
a
inch
}i
breast; from 4 back
by
line
5-6;
from
to
is
from
7
9
^
7
forwards
square
armscye;
der and
through
and
down.
from
13
line
9
a
draw
inches;
to 13 is 134
J
From
to 4
Ye
is
waist;
breast; point 5
From
9 to 10 is
14,
breast; 7 to 8
is
34 breast;
draw a
line
THE
is
SKIRT.
25 to 36
is
NOTE: The only difference between this coat and the previous coat is that this coat
being for a stout figure, has a small V cut out at 12, and the other dress coat has a fish cut out.
DIAGRAM
55
11.1
114
DIAGRAM
56
SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT.
This ovefcoat is neither a shapely overcoat nor a loose overcoat it is just a plain coat
which never is out of style. The measurements for overcoats are taken over the waistcoats
in all cases, the same as for any other coat and the additions are made in the cutting.
;
The measurements
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length whatever
inches
Blade
IS^/^
inches
t>K>
inches
Breast
3(i
inches
Waist
33
inches
Hip
38
inches
Strap
12
inches
Overshoulder
17
inches
From A
to
is
i'l*-"'^
to
is
inch
this
is
to 2 is 3/ indentation;
line out at 22
to locate Q.
to 15, 34 inch or
Vi
21 to
L which
is
to 21
this gives
'A
part and Vi of the increase from the front of the armscye backwards; square up from 15; point
from N to 4
is halfway between 1 and 15; from M to N is I34 inches; square uj) from .\
2S
as from
inch;
to
is
the
same
distance
from
22
case
is
this
%
from N back to P in
is 1 inch
This distance
to P.
may
be
made
greater
if
so desired.
Draw
a line
from V to O;
from V to Z is ;Hi i'i^"'i '^^^ than the l^ack shoulder width; shape the shoulder and armscye;
draw a rounding
is 'A brea.st plus 3^ inch
square forwards from \' by line T-U from Vto
to X according to style; V to Y is 3-s
to J make the depth of the gorge from
line from
l)reast; draw a line from V tlu-ough X and shape the gorge.
From
and L to
to 11
is
inch;
draw
a line
is of a medium weight the distance from J to 12 is \}^ inches; if the maheavy weight the distance may be 2 to 2>4 inches but no more if the material is extra
weight. 13^ inches is enough; from S to ]3 is the same distance as J to 12.
If
the material
terial is
light
From
line
R-S
to
is
34 the indentation;
DIAGRAM
56
115
ic
DIAGRAM
57
1^
9%
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length whatever
Overshoulder
Blade
17^
inches
inches
13
inches
inches
Breast
38
inches
34J/^
inches
l^yi inches
Waist
Hip
17
inches
Strap
iOyi inches
From A
to
is
plus
to 23
is
(i is
halfway between
inch;
From
of
to 2
1^
inches;
down from L
to
is
^ inch A to D
;
is
halfway between
6 inches; A to E
and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E.
is
^ the indentation;
is
inch
full
to 22
length;
is
the distance of
is 3/2
and C;
back from
j/4
to 2
and
2 to 22
up.
back to 15
is
J/ inch; square
From Q to S is 3/2 of 34
way between L and I draw
;
is halfway
J4 waist; point
through
up
a line from
From
i:i
l)y line
to
R-S;
is
J/4
the indentation;
From
18 to 29
is
the
same distance
as
)i.\(,K.\M
.-.r
118
DIAGRAM
This coat
is '^yi
from
to
3-)4
is
made
the
tiie edLrc.
is
the same-
58
This would
set the
buttons 7 to
7^/2
inches
DIAGRAM
58
;i:)
120
DIAGRAM
59
Indentation
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length according
IJ/^
inches
9^
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
inches
Breast
43 inches
43 inches
13j4 inches
Waist
Hip
17
to style.
Strap
19 inches
14 inches
44 inches
From
plus
is
to
inch;
halfway between
From
from 2;
21 to
is
to 23
is .)4
inch;
to
is
halfway between
and F; square out from G, B, C, D, 23 and E.
is
waist length
and C;
is
1/2
H to is
H; K to L
of 42 breast;
L which
lj4 inches;
is 3J/2
is
in>-hes;
to J
is
down from L
square
from
to locate
L back
to 15
down
from
is
Q; apply
is
}^ inch
Square up from 15; point M is halfway between 1 and 15; M to N is 1J4 inches;' square
up from N from N to 4 is 1 inch N to P is 'A inch 22 to 28 is the same distance as from 1
to P; draw a line from P to 28
from A to 8 is (i^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1 J/ inches; draw a line
from A to 9 A to 10 is K of 42 breast; square out from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from
J4 inch below 11 to O and shape the back.
;
From O to S is y, waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway between L and I draw a line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap
measure plus ^}^ inch draw a line from V to O from V to Z is
inch less than the back
shoulder width; shape the shoulder and arm scye; square forwards from V by line T-U
V to is % breast plus ^ inch square out from U by the same Ime this locates 26 draw
a line from
to 26
from
to X is J^ breast \' to Y is j/^ breast; draw a line from Y to X
and shape the gorge.
;
From
a line from
From
26 to 12
16 to 17
is J/g
breast;
draw
a straight
and from
line
from
2!)
to
17;
now apply
the hip
from 19 to
20 in this case of I54 inches; split the forepart down to the pocket; open the pocket to
the front V allowing it to open under the arm I14 inches the same as shown on diagram
18 and 19.
to 25
7 to 19
l-.'l
22
DIAGRAM
59
DIAGRAM
60
in tlie
or
;j-)4
inches;
S to
inches;
27 to
"i
is
same
as gi\
eii
13 is the
y^ inch less
than
1:1
manner
fn.>m
for iliayraiii
which
l.'i
is:
fmm
hy hne R-S
to 14.
as described for
diagram
59.
The
.")'-i.
to
'.'G
I'.'
coat
is
is :!'j
from S to
made
inches,
It is 2}^
123
82
DIAGRAM
60
124
DIAGRAM
61
is
Ijut is just
17
12i/^
inches
Breast
36
inches
Waist
32
inches
Strap
inches
18
inches
From
to
is
plus
halfway between
is
inch;
^
F
inch
to
is
waist length,
halfway between
and F; square out from G, B. C. D, 23 and E.
to 23
is
and C;
to 2
is
iticli
1
draw
to 21
is
from
IJo inches or
a line
'.'
may
llimugli
I''
from
is
'
35 to
5.
from A to 10
to 8 is 6^^ inches; 8 to 9 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from A to 9
breast; square up from 10 to locate 11; draw a line from Ya nich below 11 to
and
From A
is
manner: frnni
between L and
3
1
This being a draped coat, we lengthen the front edge in the following
to S is J/^ waist; point T is halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway
draw a line from T through U up.
From
to
II
and L
to
is
the strap
from
DIAGRAM
61
]2/:
126
DIAGRAM
62
Scye depth
Waist length
Full length whatever style
Strap
10
inches
J7>4 inches
calls for.
]
o)4 inches
Overshoulder
Blade
Breast
Waist
Ill
DIAGRAJM
62
-127
128
DIAGRAM
63
DOUBLE-BREASTED ULSTER.
The measurements
Overshoulder
Blade
17^
inches
13
inches
inches
Breast
38
inches
13>4 inches
Waist
34
inches
9}i inches
inches
Scye depth
Waist length
17
Full length
47
Strap
From A
between
to
length plus
From D
B to C is
inch;
to
the scye depth plus y4 incli
and C
A to E is full length F is halfway between
is
inch
D
;
the waist
is
is
halfway
and E.
down;
from 1 to
halfway
is ly^ inches; 3
3/2
^
from
L;
apply
the
blade
measure
square
down
inches;
between 3 and H; K to L is 3J/2
is halfway
from 3 to L which is 13 inches and square up; from L to 15 is yi inch; point
from
from
square
and
down
N;
N to P
up
between 1 and 15; from M to N is 1J4 inches
inch
from P to 4 is ^ inch.
is
to 8
is
I is
;i
to J
is
inch;
is
From A
is 'h
1(1
8 to 9
is
from A to
from 19 to 6 is
locates point 9 shape the back from A to
to 30 is 3>4 inches; draw a line from
draw
inches;
lj/2
draw
draw
11 to
1,
!i
a line from
from
a line
inch;
to 8 is 6J^ inches;
breast;
11 to
A
O
to 9
(I
inch.
halfway between Q and S; point U is halfway bea line from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is the strap
measure plus % inch; draw a line from V to O from \' to Z is ^ inch less than 11 to O;
is Mi
square forwards from V by line T-U from V to
shape the shoulder and armscye
to j
from
to X is Ve breast; V to Y
Ijreast plus yi inch; draw a rounding line from
draw a line from Y to X and siiape the gorge.
is % breast
From Q to S is J4
tween L and I; draw
waist; point
is
From
to
is'j4 inch;
draw
a line
down from
13
and
finish.
THE COLLAR.
Draw the crease line from 12 through 27 up;
down to the second button; the collar is cut so as
\'
from 33 to 24
From
>;\
is
to 25
to 26 is the
will
same width
to 21 is the
this coat is to
it
is
width
as
is
from
DIAGRAM
63
139
i:50
DIAGRAM 64
SINGLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT.
The measurements
Scve depth
inches
13
Strap
Overshoulder
Blade
inches
!'
16>4 inches
Waist length
Full length whatever
inches
Breast
1^/^ inches
^i'jj/l inches
Waist
32
inches
From A
to
to
halfway between
and E.
and C;
is
length;
J4 inch; E is full
square out from G, B, C,
inch;
y^,
is
is
inch
is
to
is
halfway between
and F;
From D
to 2
is
inch;
;5.
yV
halfway between
is
to 8
is
and 15;
^y% inches; 8 to D
is
to
1}2 inches;
is
inches;
xy^,
draw
a line
(i
(i
to 18.
halfway between Q and S point U is halfway bedraw a line from T through U up; from A to II and ]^ to V is the strap
tween Land
inch less than 11 to O shape the
measure plus 1 inch draw a line fromV to O; V to Z is
]i/^ inches;
shoulder and armscye as shown; from 3 up to R is 1^ inches; from S to Hi is
to 12 is the same; draw a line from R to 13 and square down; this locates point l(i from l(i
V to
is 'A
edge square forwards from V by line T-U
"to 17 is 34 breast; shape the front
to J.
draw a rounding line from
breast plus y^ inch
From
o to
1
^4 waist
is
point
is
breast; V to Y
to X is
From
o-oro-e; now add to the backpart from 4
\<>
from
to IS
is
.")
DIACIRAM
Gi
131
;i3
DIAGRAM
65
inches
i)>4
inches
17
style calls for.
inches
13
Strap
Overshoulder
Blade
18>4 inches
ISJX inchess
Breast
40
inches
Waist
40
inches
From
to
plus }i inch; E is
F square out from G, B, C,
;
From D
locates 22
to
to 2 is
iy2 inches;
I is
and
^4 inch
is
and C;
is
to
is
waist length
halfway between
and
E.
V through
is
to 21
inches
is 1^:^
is halfway between 21
inch;
to J is
to locate Q; apply the ijlade measure
21 to
this
3^ breast
3^1 inches;
is
and H; K to L is
from 21 to L which
is
13^
From L back
halfway between
is
(i}i
to 15
inches; 8 to 9
is
is
y^ inch;
and 15;
l^^ inches;
i)
is
line
]] to
square
down from
this locates
6 to 20 is
up.
from V to O; from
and armscye
draw a line from VV
is % breast plus ^4 inch
square forwards from V by line T-U V to
draw a line from Y to X
to X is the depth of the gorge desired V to Y is y^ breast
to J
and shape the gorge; J to 12 is ] J4 inches; S to ]3 is the same; Q to R is IJ^ inches; square
\'
to
R-S
16 to 17
is
draw
a line
shoulder
the
from 4 to 14 is the
y^ breast
of forepart; now add to the back from 4 to
From
bottom
13 by line
down from
inch
shape
back.
it is
this
is
'
13(1
DIAGRAM
65
134
DIAGRAM
After the forepart has been
forepart together so that they
134 inches allowing
as at
so that
it
when
split as
shown on diagram
to overlap
the
66
from
to
open from
to
two parts
of the
say about
Cut out
or
a small
DIAGRAM
66
i;55
136
DIAGRAM
This diagram
is
the
same
67
is
a Double-l'reasted
Overcoat, and the addition to the front edge should be made as follows: from 25 to 12 should
be
J/4
tlie
same manner
as
shown on diagrams
05 and 66.
DIAGRAM
67
137
138
DIAGRAM
68
Indentation
Strap
J^ inches
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
[ull length according to
12J/2
'J}i
inches
0\ ershouldcr
]6i/2
inches
Blade
Breast
ISJ4 inches
n%
Waist
style.
inches
inches
13
inches
38
inches
34J/2
inches
.'
From A
to
is
iuch;
to 30 is
-J^
inch;
to
is
J/2
inch
more than the natural waist length; C to D is IJ/^ inches or may be l->4 inches; E is full
length; F is halfway between
and 30; G is halfway between A and 1'"; scpiare out from
.'\
G, F, B, 30, C,
and E.
From C to R is ],< the indentation; draw a line from .A through R tn y and square
down this locates II from H to 13 is I3/2 inches or may be made 1 J4 inches; from 13 to I is
;
J-2
breast
is 33,4
which
31
is
to
to j
inches
is
'
inches
J to 22 is
134 inches;
is
down from L
sejuare
13 inches
(.)
to 28
L
is
inch
to locate
K
;
is
from A to
to P from
draw a line from 14 inch below
scjuare up from V to locate
breast
Q to S is 5^ breast plus ^4 inch or may be made to style; scjuare down from S and shape the
from O to 23 is
t(j 2 is j4 iui-'h
back; from X to Y is 134 inches; square down from Y;
tV breast; jtoint Z is halfway between the line squared flown frotn 31 and Y; point 3 is 3/2
inch above the waist line; shape the sidebody.
I'Vcim
\' is
t(i
,'()
inches;
is ii-}g
to
draw
inches;
is IJ/2
a line from
From M
to 4
is
3.-2
',4,
.5
point 5
square
of 3434 waist;
breast;
to
is
is
(i
!)
side of forepart.
sweep from 14 forwards and backPlace the square to line 14-4 and make a mark at .'Ui
from 22 to 27 is 1^4 inches; 4 to
wards pi\oting at 3() and shape the bottom of forepart
;
32
is
the same;
THE
Draw
a straight line
SKIRT.
to Id;
go up from 16
more or
less
inch at 26.
DIACiRAM
68
139
H"
DIAGRAM
SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK OVERCOA
69
1"
Indentation
1^
inciies
Strap
13J/2
inches
Scye depth
Natural waist lengtii
Fashionable waist length
Full length according to style.
9^)4
inches
O\ershoul(ler
Id
inches
IT
inches
14
inches
18^
inches
Blade
Breast
12
inches
Waist
43
inches
Prom A
length plus
and
:!()
to
j/^
is
halfway between
is
is
'
inch;
J4
'"^"'i
'<
to
length;
full
is
is
natural waist
halfway between
30,
C,
and E.
I'"r(ini
to
to
2!) is
inches
is
inch;
;>4
the
same
From A
to 28
is
the
THE FOREPART.
I<"rum
less than
M
'.(-,
draw
a line
and
inch:
to 4
is
yi waist; sijuare
down from
from
3 to
34
is
7 to 23 is
from
11 to J4 is ^2
14 to 34,
>4
inch
inch
7 to
we go down from
halfway between
through 6 up from A to
point 5
by
line 5-6
desired
l.)4
this locales
to
inch
armscye.
an<l
(I
this locates
7 to 8 is >^
S.'j
breast
inches; from Z to Y,
7 to 9 is li breast plus
sipiare forwards
from
forepart.
From
tlic
35 to 27
IJ^ inches; from 4 to 33 is the same; shape the front edge; (dace
make a ma.rk at 3() draw a straight line from 16 to 14;
where the two lines cross; from t l)ack to .38 is gi/ inches; sweep from
is
and the
and shape
hnttdni of forepart.
THE
SKIRT.
F'rom IG up to 24 is 1J4 inches; draw a line from 13 to 34 and by that line square down
from 24 to 25 is 9 inches from 25 to 26 is lyi inches draw a line from 24 through 26
inch more than from S to 18; from 14 to 15 is the same distance
down; from 34 to 19 is
finish the skirt as shown rounding it -><i
as 34 to 19; square down from 20 by the waistline
to 25
inch at 36.
DIAGRAM
69
in
142
DIAGRAM
70
Indentation
J/2
Strap
inches
Scye depth
Natural waist length
dyi inches
1G.)4 inches
1SJ4 inches
I'ull
12J4 inches
18
inches
Overshonlder
Blade
ISJ^ inches
Breast
39
inches
Waist
35i/2
inches
From
to
is
and 19;
From C
til
32
to 15 is
ly
is
inch
is ^j4
draw
to 33
is
inch
to 19
to
is
^4 inch;
is full
from
through R to
is
F.
is
B, 19,
is
natural waist
halfway between
C, D and E.
breast;
'/z
to
length;
to
if,
from
lyi inches;
to 14 is
In locate
to
ly^ inches;
is
to
halfway between
is
3/4
or Ij^ inches;
is II/2
inch
is
inches.
From A
to 24
the
is
THE FOREPART.
M
From
than
!i'i
draw
to 1
a line
to locate
to i:; is j inch less
square down from
from
])oiiU
is halfway between L and
halfway between M and
J;
and L to 7 is the stra]) measure plus
through G up; from A to
inch;
to P
to !'; shape the shoulder and armscye.
7 to 31 is -'s inch less than
waist
is J/i
point 5
breast;
fmm
is
'
(i
to 14
~i
!i
forepart.
Draw
25 to 26
a line
from
134 inches
is
through
draw
3 to
24;
a line froin 24
than from S to 17
taken out
13
from 13 to 28
it
;Vs
is
inch at 2G.
DIAGRAM
TO
]4;i
Ml
DIAGRAM
71
DOUBLE-BREASTED PALETOT.
The measurements
inches
Strap
12
inches
inches
17
inches
16>^ inches
Overshoulder
Blade
1SJ4 inches
Breast
12>4 inches
36
inches
Waist
32
Indentation
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
inches
From A
length plus
and 30;
to
is
inch;
to
1^
is
halfway between
is
inch
y:^
inches;
to
to
;Jii
is
is
full
J4 inch
to
is
length;
frcim
(I,
F, B, 30,
is
natural waist
halfway between
C, D and E.
From C to R is
down from
scjuare
to 13
is
]>^ inches
to 29
is
the
fViinl
halfway between
is
to
is
}4 inches;
from
6^
same distance as J I to
draw a line from i\ to U; A to \' is \i breast; square up from V
to P; from O to S is V/, inches; 24 to 18 is
\V; draw a line from ^ inch below
draw a line from S to 18 and shape the back.
O; draw
the
is
\y2 inches;
a line
to 28;
from
to
is
to 28
inches;
to
is
to locate
5 inches;
from Y to 25 is 9
through 26; from 16 to 19 is the same
to 4 is ^^
inch; square down from K; from
distance as from S to 18; from 1 to 2 is
and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J draw a line
waist; point 5 is halfway between
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^4 inch draw a line
from 5 through 6 up from A to
to P
shape the shoulder and armscye
from T to P from 7 to 23 is y& inch less than
is li breast plus J.^ inch; draw a rounding
square forwards from 7 by line 5-6; from 7 to
From
to
inches; 25 to 26
is
is
inch;
square
IJ^ inches;
draw
down from
a line
from
^'
l(i
1)
line
from
9 to 22.
From
9 to fO is Jo breast; 7 to 8 is y^ breast;
DIAGRAM
71
145
146
DIAGRAM
72
Indentation
lyz inches
Strap
12i/^
inches
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length according to style
9^
17^
inches
IQyi inches
Overshoulder
Blade
13
inches
]8^
Breast
38
inches
Waist
S-ijA
inches
inches
inches
From C
down; from
to 13
inches; J to 22
down from L
to
is
is
is
inch;
to locate
to 20
is
the same:
up; L back to 31 is
inch; square up and
and 31 N to O is ]>4 inches.
down from
31
13 to
through
I
to
and square
J^ breast; I to J is IJ/S
to L is 3^ inches; square
is
L which
point
is
is
From
6^
inches
up from
plus
to 28 is the
to
to locate
is 1^/2
square
inch or to style:
From X
the back.
to
point
is
is
is
jA
is
THE FOREPART.
From
breast; point 5
square
is
>'4
arm scye.
Square forwards from by line S-fi 7 to 9 is 'A breast plus J4 '"^"'i ^il'' /4 '""-''i fi^r scam
4 and shape the front from 9 through 22 down to 14; from 9 to 10 is Vt breast; 7
to 8 is 3/^ breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and shape the gorge; 4 back to 17 is 2%
inches; Z to Y, X to 29 and 17 to 21 is the waist measure net.
']
in front of
THE REVER.
Draw
Draw
a straight line
THE
from
1(3
SKIRT.
sweep;
from 16 to 24
is
1J4
skirt
rounding
it
Ys inch at 26.
DIAGRAM
72
147
MS
DIAGRAM
73
The nu-;isurements
9^
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length according to
inches
18;>4
inches
inches
1!)
14 inches
43 inches
44 inches
Breast
Waist
style.
13>4 inches
Strap
down and
Scjuare
From A
to
is
Oxershoukler
Blade
inches
17
and 30;
out from A.
halfway between
is
to
is
is
natural waist
halfway between
F^ B, 30, C, D and E.
( i,
From C
to
^4 inch
is
draw
a line
tween
and
From N
from
\'
to
to
to 28
is
to
is
waist;
From
to 14
is
11
inches;
square
is
to
3;!
down from
'_.
IT
to
is
breast;
14 to 34
is
draw
a line
from
i)oint
through
W and L to
inch; from
.>:4
is
(i
and
back to 17
\'
from
point
1;
is
is
;4
to 2
point 3
10;
forepart,
the
of
;
down from
halfway lictween
to
inch above the waistline; shape the sidebody, also the side
and 1
point .5 is halfway between
it about ys inch at 3;
and
to
draw a line from 34 ''i^'li below \V
square down from .S and shape the back; from
breast;
iV
is
U
locate W;
\'
square up from
and
to 29
inch;
-14
is
brea.st
y^
to 4
/(.
P; from
is
31.
is
3^
overlapping
halfway between L
up.
to
7 is
(1
from
through 35 down to
Draw
across; 39
a line
is
wdiere
hollowing
l.art,
from
it
:'.
tiie
37.
phu
to 34;
two
slightly
square to point
llic
between
and
.1
small
\'
.ind
Itl-ll
at
3i)
draw
shape the
straight
line
i)ottt)m of fore-
39.
THE REVER
sweep from U) to ;i(i pi\oting at 37 from 14 back
from 37 up to
and shape the l)ottom of
234 inches; sweep from 38 forwards to 20 pi\oting at
Draw
to 38 is
a straight line
:)V>
:'.(!
forepart.
THE
SKIRT.
12
style
DIAGRAM
7;J
149
150
DIAGRAM
74
Scye depth
Waist length
length
Fvill
48
whatever the
(or
Overshoulder
Blade
17
13J/2
inches
inches
Breast
36
inches
inches
Waist
33
inches
inches
16)4 inches
style calls for).
Strap
13
This coat
to be increased
is
inches
also add
inch
Blade
13 inches
Breast
38 inches
Waist
34 inches
From A to B is the scye depth plus J4 incii, in this case 9^^ inches; B to 18 is Y^ inch;
from A to C is the waist length plus -)4 inch C to D is 6 inches; A to E is full length F is
halfway between A and 18; G is halfway between A and F; square out from G, B, 18, C, D
and E.
;
From C
to 3
to 2 is
\y2 inches;
is
inch
3 to
draw
a line from
H is J^ of 38 breast; H
H K to L is 3^/2 inches;
to 3
to I
is
1^4 inches;
this locates
from
to J is J4 inch;
is
to locate
apply the
From
A to 8
is
6^^ inches; 8 to 9
is
draw
1>4 inches;
a line from
of 38 breast;
A to 9; A to 10 is Vh
O and shape the back.
THE FOREPART.
Draw
a straight line
Square forwards from V by line T-U from V to 4 is '0 breast plus Yj, inch draw a
rounding line from 4 to S from V to Y is )^ breast; make the distance from 4 down to the
gorge Vb breast and shape the gorge; from J to 13 is 3)4 inches; S to 13 is the same; from
Q to R is 1 inch; square down from 13 by line R-13 this locates point 16; from 16 to 17 is
shape the front edge and bottom of forepart.
Yi. of 38 breast
;
THE COLLAR.
The backpart
Square up from
11
by
line
by the same
line,
from
to 34
is
collar as
shown.
The
From 29 to
38
is
line.
Now
two parts
of the collar
jioint
33 to 37 and
DIAGRAM n
151
jr)2
DIAGRAMS
75
&
76.
THE SLEEVE.
Diagrams 75 and 76 show how to measure the armhole for the sleeve. Measure the
armscye closely, beginning at 1 through 2 and up to 3; now let us say that this armhole
measures 19 inches; proceed as follows point 3 is ] inch above the breast line and is the
front notch; for the back go up J4 of the armscye from the breast line and place the notch
:
there.
Place the back shoulder along the front shoulder as shown on diagram 76; point b is
now measure the distance on a straight line from the front notch to the
back notch: this distance is 934 inches; make your sleeve as shown in the following way.
DIAGRAM
A
77
From
to
is >5
of the
til \'
DIAGRAM
76
DIAGRAM r
153
DIAGRAM
78
In a case of measuring the armhole on a frock coat, proceed in the same manner as
described on diagrams 75 and 76. but before measuring the distance from the back notch to
the breast line, let the back uxerlap the sidebody a JS inch before measuring same.
DIAGRAM
79
This sleeve is made the same as shown on diagram 77 with the exce|)tioii that it is
cut half and half, therefore add a seam at D which is an extra ^ inch to the upper and
under sleeve as shown and fmish the same as the other sleeve.
DIAGRAM
an extra easy sleeve
If
to
is }4
the armscye
from B
is
desired,
to
is
inch always
make your
80
slee\ e as
same distance
the
from
shown
as from
tlic
in
this
diagram.
From
shown on
halfway between I and B; square
this locates points O and N
point P is halfway between A and N
up from
draw a line
from P to D from I down to S in this case is
inch
place the square to S-B and square
down this locates point H square back from H by line O-H and make the width of the
slecxe according to style and linisli the same as shown in diagram 77.
notch
Diagram
to
76; square
is 1
down from
to
this locates I
is
DIAGRAM
78
?9
DIAGRAM
80
155
l-^>'^
DIAGRAM
81
In cutting sleeves for overcoats, the same iiietliod is used as for under coats. The only
change made is that the overcoat sleeve is cut l)j inches larger around the wrist than an
imder coat slee\e of the same size would he
'l"o measure tlie armhole for a Box (Jvercoat, proceed as follows: do not add the overhq) as from
to 2 in the measuring of the armholes, but hegin as at A and measure around through 2 straight up to B; for the overlap
and 2 there is an addition made on the undersleeve.
between
]
DIAGRAM
82
size of this
armhole
is
".'
1
is
lU
inches.
down and
S(|uare
I'rom
to
15
is
'
out frinn A.
.!
(if
the armscye
to
C and
l]
I'roui
to
I'L
is ^,4
is
tlie
sleeve lengtli
in
of the arinsc_\e;
square
D; from
back to
81);
to
11
down from K;
add on
j/.
and
is
inch that
seam
is
inch
j/2
point
square
L;
half-
this h.icates
inch;
is
is
take out
is
to the
imdersleeve as
is
cut the
same length as for the under coat there is no need to adtl an\ length because the backpart
and shoulder having become wider and the armhole deeper, this gives sufficient length to
the sleeve by making it the same length as the under coat square back from E by line O-E.
;
From E
to
in this case is
''1^2
inches
same
size
DIAGRAM
82
57
158
DIAGRAMS
&
84.
h'ur a
ers natural
width
by natural width,
Now
83
see
to 2 at least
diagram
83,
mean
first
of
all
cut
is
all
your should-
inch.
now
is
measure
mark
ceed as follows;
place the back shoulder along the front shoulder and reshape the shoulder
Now
line
(i-4
.see
u])
8:5,
diagram
the notches;
broken
84.
line,
at 4;
now
reshape
make
it
as
indicated
by the
.T
extend
broken
line;
re-
8;i
DIAGRAM
81
159
Hi"
DIAGRAM
85
RAGLAN OVERCOAT.
The nieaMircmeiUs a.s taken over the waistcuat are as follows:
Overshonldcr
Scye depth
^J'/i inches
Blade
inches
17
Waist length
Breast
Full length whatever style calls for.
Waist
inches
Strap
^''^H
18
inches
13^
inches
39
inches
35^
inches
From
}^
1'"
to
is
inch;
to
is
^4 inch;
to
is
inch;
;
length;
full
is
is
From
Vb
to 8
Gya inches; 8 to 9
is
breast; square
uj)
tween L
anil
draw
from
a line
4'
through
up.
to
II
and
to
is
the strap
\'
measure plus
to 2i;
R-13
l'"rom
I
to J\
]()
to 17
breast;
is y^,
and
134 inches
fi-om
"i
to
.">
measure the armhole the same as shown on Diagram 81, that is, from 30 down to
inch aliove the lower breast line; from the lower
point 15 is
through
4 up to 21
and
make
the back notch at I. The measurements for this
of
arniscyc;
lluis
i)reast line to 14
Now
i."j
Armscye circumference
Back notch
In
lower
at 14 to
this co.at
it
is
brc.ist line
31 yi
inches
5^-^
inches
not necessary to take the width of the anuhole from notch to notch on a
now draw
a line
THE FOREPART.
Draw
a line as
from
to 15;
place the square to that line until the right angle touches
from \' to 26 is y, incli
shape the front part from 26
:!(i;
from 29 to 31 is y inch;
through 31 to 15; now measure the distance on the backpart from the notch up to 11; in this
case it is 7j/^ inches; measure the distance on a straight line from 15 to 26, in this case
at
it is
10 inches.
is
inches;
now
dia(;ram
8r
161
162
DIAGRAM
THE
S(|uar(_' iliiwii aiiil
nut
86
SPLIT SLEFA'E.
mi A.
I'ri
to the
From D to B is the slee\e length; scpiare l);ick from Fi l)y line Z-B from B to () is tiie
inch; draw a line from F' to II and shape
width of the sleeve desired; from N back to II is
the under sleeve; from V to T is Y^ inch less than the distance from the back notch up to 11,
;
'
_-
in tliis
F"rom
\i
to
is
the
same distance
as from
to
1">
.'(>,
in this
to
the
same distance
as from
to 27, in this ca
;iiS
-.e
(i
inches
!",
sleexe;
to
\'
inch and
'^
1.
DIAGRAM
rniisii.
87
If a
to
sleex'e is desired,
(_"
l.'J
.\dd irom
to
\'
amount
the s.anic
it is
inch;
Ji.'j
at
".'
:\
;i
from
'^
to
29 to
.'!l
the s.ame
straigiit
tile
amount
froni
uprier
sleexe
L and
al)out
draw the
y^ inch
er.
\'.
sleeve in
between
The
'4
and
best
way
to sexv in this
your
lajie
sleeve
line
II
pivoting
from P to
to Y.
down
itetween
is
\'
is
as
to
be fulled
folloxvs:
U|)])er
in
sleexe and
al)OUt
away on both
'S
incli
draw
P and
DIACUAM
86
DIAGRAM
87
163
Kii
DIAGRAM
88
BALMACAAN.
cut the
This coat
cut same by proportion.
Breast
is
same as
either the
Box Coat
or the
Raghm
inches
38
34/2 inches
Waist
Heighth
ft..
is
7 ins.
Frt)m
to
is
to
is
inch;
to
heighth plus
14
is full
is
>'
Point
is
halfway between
and 15;
to
is
A
O
to
f)
from
to 10
''6
is
from
breast;
point
-1
is
where the armhole crosses the breast line; square down from 4; this locates 19; from 19 to
through 6 to 7 and from 4
6 is IV2 inches; from (J to 20 is 33/ inches; draw lines from 4
waist.
distance
from 3 to S is
to
as
from
4
7
same
the
18
is
2i>
4
to
to
18
through
Point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway between L and I; draw a line
from T through U up; from A to 11 and L to V is }i of 38 breast plus 4 inches, in this case
from V to Z is ^ inch less than the back shoulder
I31/2 inches; draw a line from V to O
;
width
licittoni
forepart.
of
THE COLLAR.
Draw
a line from
through
is
\'
from Xto 29
point 30
is y'z
from
is
to 29
is
is
the normal
lyi inches;
shape
]>4 inches;
place the square to points 29-32 and square out to 34; from
shape the collar stand
33
is
1>4 inches; X to 39 is ^2 inch
32 to 34 is l>i inches; 39 to
is
square
to points 33-35 and
35
inch
place
the
to
34
}i
from 33 through 34 to 39 from
to
and 39 to 38 are
of
the
collar
desired;
34
37
width
square out to 30; 33 to 3(1 is the
From
29 to 32
is
breast;
the
same
it is
is
to be stretched until
it
folds over as
shown by
now
Now
finish.
will
at
O.
Add from
27 to 28, >2 or
.>4
draw
on the
a line
make
place the square to that line until the right angle touches at Z
forepart from 15 to V
'4
to
is yi
inch
from
V
style,
about
25
to
this
case
in
the distance from 23 to 26 according
;
inch
15.
DIAGRAM
88
JG5
166
DIAGRAM
Now
as
cut
lilt
shown on diagram
much
from C
to
frcim
to
F and F
1'^
as
to
opened from C to D.
S'.\
split the
them
H; open from
11 to
89
side
ti.>
oj.^
the same
seam
to side
B and B
inches,
amount
b>
alsci
as
the
seam and
jjioceed
sjilit
the
forejiart
backpart
lias
as
been
DIAGRAM
89
168
DIAGRAM
(Diagram
til
90).
The
90
now
in
both sides of the armscye as shown come together as at letter A. also the distance from
to 2 should be about
IJ/4
down
as shown.
DIAGRAM
90
16!l
1^"
DIAGRAM
i\'ii\\
and
take
(liagiaiii !M
line B,
C and
!"
91
ol the
arnihole desired,
in thi>
case
it
is
measurements
will
to B, in this case
inclies; scjiiare
it
is
an<]
hack from
oy4 inclies;
1);
now draw
to
this locates
lines
slmwn.
from
the
dei)tli
C meas;
tlie
hack
The armscve
^tlMSCVf C/RCUMffUfWE/*
23INCHE5
3^CV. NOTCH
5i
Inches
""^~^
-4-
DIAGRAM
:)L
/ffl
171
DIAGRAM
92
BALMACAAN SLEEVE.
Square down and out
froni A.
From A to B is 'A armscye B to C is the same distance as from the breast Hne to the
back notch which is
armscye; B to D is 1 inch square out from C and B from D to E is
armscye; square up and down from E; this locates Z; point Y is halfway between B
and Z; square up and down from Y; this locates M.
;
From D
to
is
same distance
the
to
is
from
inch less than from the back notch up, in this case 7ys
as the shoulder width at the narrowest part, in this case
M to O is the same
sweep from P back pivoting at D sweep from N forwards pivoting
forwards and backwards pixoting at M this locates points Q-S.
inches; from
6 inches
at
sweep
Draw
a line
from
to E, also
From G to 8 is the width of the sleeve desiretl; point 10 is iialfway between G and 8;
shape the upper sleeve as shown, adding y2 inch each side of line E-H-L-10, from B to F is
square forwards and backwards from F; from
yi the distance of from A to D on diagram 91
F to I is the same distance as from A to B on diagram 91 jjIus ^4 inch for a seam, in this
from F to 1 is 9-34 inches; from I to
case it is 3% inches plus a seam; square down from I
which
F
to
is 9^ inches: add a seam at 2
as
from
1.
distance
same
2
is
the
F and 1 to
is }i inch more than from the
2;from
E
to
3
from
E
to
line
draw
a
and square dowji
;
From
a>
it
is
11^
inches.
% inch more than from the front notch to C shape the upper and unshown and draw lines from J to K and from 3 to 4 from 5 to 6 is the same
from 5 to 7 from 6 to 9 is the same distance as from 7 to 8 shape the .sleeve
to J is
der sleeve as
distance as
in this case
shown and
finish.
DIAGRAM
92
n:i
1^4
DIAGRAM
HOW TO MAKE
T'l;u-e
tlu'
l>ack
|ir(iceed as fullows:
!",
l)v line
A-l'"; this
the hackpart as at
shoulder alongside
draw
a line I'lMni
shoulder should he
II
and
iif
93
SPLIT SLEEVE.
to F:
frnni
to
\i
is
ii
|s iireast
in tliis iliat^rani
and
reshape
DIAGRAM
y;5
Ho
176
DIAGRAM
Tlie Sleeve
the backpart as
is
made
shown
as follows
in this
(diagram
U-i)
94
place
diagram, the side seam of the upper sleeve to rest along the
split
add
to
as shown.
C.
Now
!5)
place
95
heail
to
the
shoulder seam;
yi inch for
and B and
line.
DIAGRAM
from
to
H, F to
and
J to
to
pivoting at F;
now
!)J
DIAGRAM
95
177
1^8
DIAGRAMS
If a
two seam
split
follows:
the
line to the
measurement
back notch
is
iov the
5^/2
&
97
slee\ e is desireil,
made narrower
96
the
same
shown on diagram
as
armscye circumference
is
31^
93 and proceed as
inches.
From A
is 1
inch;
is
to
is 'j
of the
armscye; B
C and B;
way between
\\'
and
draw
to
to
is
is
j'',
square up and
a line
from
to
1/4
armscye;
to
down from
is
also
draw
this locates
a line from
I' is
to
and
half-
shape
From B
A-B-FI
is
to
on the
on diagram OT
is
fold
split
and
is
this
is
locates
it
U
as
line
shown
179
05
<
50
05
<
o
380
DIAGRA1V1S98, 99&
(
Diagram
98)
from
from
to
is
r.
which
to
line
point
is
is
^'4
from C
inch;
to
is
the
backpart of
the
place
tiie
to
*4
is
sleeve
alongside
inch;
is
!!))
shoulder seam;
through C to B
(Diagram
at
100
I.
to J
on Diagram
point
to J;
is
-y^
'JS
to
;
the
from
inch below
C-D.
Sweej) from
II
to
pi\dting at
A; add from F
to
M,
J/,
To
test
the
two parts
made on
shown on
to
(1
this
diagram; from
on I^iagram
99.
Diagram
to
(]
is
100;
lay the
the addition
two parts
tiiat
has been
DIAGRAM
99
98
DIAGRAM
H)0
181
183
DIAGRAM
101
INVERNESS.
The measurements
Scye depth
inches
Blade
12i.^
inches
Waist length
Ki^
inches
Breast
36
inches
Strap
13
inches
Waist
'o2
inches
Overshoulder
17
inches
S(|uare
From A
to
is
From D
to 2 is
from
A.
-34
inch;
to 21
is
draw
a line
from F through
to J
inch;
is }'4
IJ/ inches;
31 to
is
breast;
yi
is
3^
to
IJX
is
inches;
inclies
13J/,
half-
and
F,.
square
locates 23;
tliis
II
is
inches;
square
down
from
is
down;
halfway between
is
waist
{*
is
li
(1
(i
From A
to 8 is
(ij/g,
inches;
8 to D is
1^
draw
inches;
a line
from
to 0;
.\
to 10
is
breast;
halfway between
I^
and
draw
from
a line
through
up.
from
to
to 11 and
."4 is
the
From
,'{,
to 12
is
1^4 inches;
S to 13
is
the.
same;
16 to 17
is
to
is I3/4
breast;
THE CAPE.
Extend the breast line back to 25 from L tci 30 is the slee\-e length plus )<4 inch
sweep from 30 forwards to 28 and backwards to 25 pivoting at \" add from 28 to 39, 1 inch
shape the back from 35 through P and Z to ^^. If the cape is to
from 34 to Z is -l^ inch
it
should
be cut ofif as at X-T-S-38. but if it is to button, add from X to 31,
meet in front,
.S
to 33 the same and shape as per broken line; point 27 is 3 inches from
34 inch, J to 32 and
point 25; this is to be a small open vent.
;
DIAGRAM
10]
18.'!
184
DIAGRAM
102
same
diagram
as in
101,
iM'um
plus
iiuli
to
1";
["rom
to 3
length;
^4 inch;
is
1 to
21
is
is
draw
a line
is
and C;
from E through
]>4 inches; 21 to li
^^ inch;
is
halfway between
inch;
from
D
and E.
square out
G, B, C,
}{l
and
B is the
E is full
to
down;
'i
y, breast;
II
to
is
waist length
halfway between
is
to
13^ inches;
is
square
I
to J
j4 inch;
is
I'oinl
from
from
N
N
is
j\l
i)
(i
(i
t(j
is
14
breast;
to
4,
lM"om
to 8 is
ii-ya
inches;
S to
!)
is
1)^
draw
inclies;
line
11
from
to
to
to
.10
to 5 the
THE FOREPART.
From 3 to S is 3,2 waist: point T is halfway between O and S; point U is halfway
between L and I; draw a line from T through U up; from A to II and L to V is the strap
inch less than 11 to O; L to
measure plus 1 inch; draw a line from V to (); \' to Z is
23 is 3J4 inches; square back from 23; shape the shouhler and armscye as shown; notch the
back on line 23-24.
.';s
by
line
T-U
to
is
I'ti
draw
a round-
from
is
3 to
Ys breast
down from
is
;
j4 inches;
square
from 16 to 17
The cape
length plus
.54
is
made
inch:
DIAGRAM
JO-i
185
i<5
DIAGRAM
103
SHOULDER CAPE.
Select
ail
mark
proceed as follows:
from
to
to
is
Jj
to
pivoting at
is
inch
breast;
to
to
is
is
2 inches
to
draw
3J4 inches;
is li
breast
a line from
from B
through
to J
1;
is j/l
and G;
breast
sweep from C
shape the back of the cape as shown, flattening the bottom about }< inch-
DIAGRAM
104
THE FOREPART.
Place the forepart pattern of the overcoat on
shown; from
to
point
from
is
to
From
is
from
to
I is Vs
to
breast; point J
is J/<
is
is
yi inch
to
F on
the
to
to
a line
from
F pivoting
to
at
G
G
to
F on
from
a line
from F to
pivoting at
is
from
through
the
the backpart, in
draw
the backpart
of
same distance as
draw
134 inches
inch.
is
to
is
3/i
i^ inch;
piece
to
is
is
1^
inches;
the same.
down; from B
to
from
to
same distance
flatten the
armhole
as
DIAGRAM
10^
k).-.
is;
JSS
DIAGRAM
J'he backpart and
the
iVji-epart,
bottom straightened
if
necessary.
IU5
i_iiit
and
DIAGRAM
105
isi'
100
DIAGRAM
106
SPANISH CAPE.
Select an overcoat pattern to correspond with
is
14.
Draw
breast:
breast
shown
at
E; from
proceed as follows:
to
the
to
see
D-E and
to
down from E;
square
a line from
is,
if
measure the
overcoat length.
to
to
to
P and backwards
the
J to
J to
K:
to
1 is
pivoting at
A; reshape
the
to
same distance
to
the
same
the
as
to
sweep from
measure the
forwards
DIACRAAI
11)1!
1!1
AMERICANGARMENT CUTTER
DIAGRAM
107
MILITARY CAPE.
Select an overcoat pattern to correspond with the l)reast
F and
l)et\veen
li,
at
make
1/2
O; apply
way between
Sweei) from
the
to
shown,
/.
td
make
tlie
the same;
to
II to
to
F and
and
to
and H,
L,
('
so
tliat
and
N; draw
iiivoting at P;
to S
is 5
backpart from
jxiint
is
of drapery desired;
c. the
fmm D
in this (liai;ram,
to
the
h^
N;
add to
same
pnint
I'
M-N
ani(
is
is
mnt
half-
and O.
T: from
amount
the length
from
shown
as follows:
draw
a line
through
from S
to
lialfway between
may
to
made more
R; shape the
at
II;
draw
a line
or less according to
front
circle complete.
be
L and
through
hll in
to S
slightly to
niACRAM
107
]93
194
DIAGRAMS
&
108
109
A HOOD.
The
made
liood is
as follows:
line
is
from
?>
Make
draw
a line
from C to
from 24 to
is
'j
U
In
is j/,
inch
and
to
is
from S
2."),
from
to A,
breast;
to
inth;
and from
2.")
is
''.~>
In
2)<l
to
is tiie
hood
after
it
to B,
now
to 'M
mark around
point 21
is
llie
seam
to
S;
place the
slundder and
line
draw
line
24-M.
now
1.
is
U, and
inches;
Diagram 109
as
to
as from
it
place the
as indicated.
away
as to line
B;
108
DIAGRAM
109
195
196
DIAGRAM no
NAVAL
(This coat
The measurements
OFFICER'S BLOUSE.
worn hy
also
is
policemen.)
Ijicycle
are as follows
Blade
13 inches
Waist
inches
Breast
38 inches
inches
^Vaist
34 inches
inches
Hip
40 inches
i)^ inches
Scye depth
Full length
30
Strap
Overshoulder
17>^ inches
Scjuare
down and
From
to
2^
out from A.
is
^
A
inch
and B;
is
waist length
is
to
halfway between
D is
A and
fi
inches;
to
F; square out
From C
to 2
is
inch
to 22
is >{.
inch
draw
i/^
to
is
a line
.}4
inch;
From R
to
from A to 9 A
below 11 to O;
is
inch; from
to 8
6^
is
inches;
8 to 9
draw
li4 inches;
is
line
i,
")
".
THE FOREPART.
From Q to S is y, waist; point T is halfway lietween
between L and I; draw a line fr<im T through V up: from
measure plus -^^ inch; draw a line from \' to (); \' to Z
shape the shoulder and arm scye.
shoulder width
A
is
and S; point
11 and L to
to
><;
inch
less
U is halfway
V is the strap
than
tiie
back
is y, inch; shape
by line T-V V to 23 is K, breast; 23 to
inches;
to 15 is the
to
11
is
and
down
from
S
S
the front edge from \Y through J
2Jj
is the waist
from
and
to
to
14
31
measure;
5
2
same; from 32 to 3 and 15 to 20 is the seat
from
down
through
from
20
line
18
measure; point 18 is halfway between 5 and 31 draw a
is
from
to
forepart;
16
17
side
of
shape the
18 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7
breast; shape the bottom of forepart.
f)
Point 27
is
halfway between
29 the surplus
facing; from
to 26
and
6 to 33 is
ton stand-
The
grams 47 and
48.
is a
is
made
the
DIAGRAM no
197
198
DIAGRAM
111
are as follows
Indentation
lyi inches
Scye depth
Waist length
DJ^ inches
16.)4 inches
1834 inches
inches
31)
Strap
1^:54
inches
Overshoiikler
18
inches
Blade
13 ^4 inches
Breast
39
Waist
35^2 inches
inches
From
to
is
From C
to
is
down; from
to
is
tween H and I;
measure from EI
to
is
From
and E.
to J
is
I34 inches; J to
1-1
A
is
through
.)4
inch;
to
Q
is
and square
halfway. be-
to
to
the blade
II
and L;
134 inches.
to 24
&}i inches;
up from
is
to
to locate
plus 34 'nch
From X
the
is
square
to
is
I34 inches;
;
line;
point Z
is
halfway between
and
inch; point
to 2
is -ji
M;
;]
is
3^ inch
THE FOREPART.
M to 1 is 3/ waist; square down from 1 this locates 11 from 11 to 13 is 34 inch
is halfway between L
and 4; point
than M, breast; point 5 is halfway between
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus
and J draw a line from 5 through 6 up from A to
inch less than the back shoulder
inch; draw a line from 7 to P
from 7 to 23 is
From
less
width
shape
tiie
(5
THE
From Y
to 25
from 22 to 19
22 to 19;
and
finish,
SKIRT.
is
is 9
inches; 25 to 26
34 inch
rounding the
latter
inch at 26.
^(^
DlA(;RAi\l
111
19!)
200
DIAGRAM
112
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist
18;4 inches
Full length
46
9}^ inches
inches
17
inches
From A
to
is
inch
Strap
lo
Overshoulder
Blade
18J4 inches
13^ inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist
37
inches
to 30
is -^^
inch
to
is
inches
natural waist
is
is
full
length;
is
THE SIDEBODY.
From X
1J4 inches;
and 40; point 3
to
way between Y
1 to 3 is
is
is
inch;
to 33 is
breast;
point Z
half-
is
THE FOREPART.
From
down from
is
3^ waist; square
breast
J^
point 5
is
(i
THE REVER.
Draw
sweep
from 14 forwards to 20, and backwards pivoting at 36; the rever width from 14 to 30 is 3
inches; from 36 back to 37 is yi inch; round the rever slightly down from 37; 37 to 38 is
finish the rever as shown43^ inches
a straight line from 14 up to 36; sweep from 10 to 36 pivoting at 14;
THE
Draw
SKIRT.
a straight line
(!
Prussian collar
is
to be
is
man
THE COLLAR.
worn with
this
10 to 39
of 40 breast
coat,
is
which
3^ the
would be
collar
is
made
size of the
15'/> inches,
as follows:
shirt collar;
draw
the pro-
7>4 inches.
is 1
inch;
distance as from
DIAGRAM
112
201
202
DIAGRAM
113
are as fuUuws:
Ij/z
inches
Strap
12
inches
!)
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
17
inches
12^
inches
Breast
36
inches
^^'aist
^(2
inches
Indentation
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
1834 inches
Full length
o-l
inches
10^'^
inches
man's heighth.)
From A
to
is
and F
F^
and E.
F'roni
to
to
'A
breast; square
I is
I""r(_im
}i breast
is
jA breast;
11
to
indentatiiiu
'/.
to J
is 6-}i
inches;
draw
inches;
is IJ/^
to
J to
L to
is
a line fnmi
I
tiiruugh
inch;
is
i}^
is
'"<-"''
to
U A to V
Q to S
;
below
W to P
inch
point Z
is
is
THE SIDEBODY.
F>om X
between
to
is
M;
and
134 inches;
point
;!
is
square
'j
down
fioni
inch abo\ c
to 2 is
waistline;
tiie
.)4
halfway
is
THE FOREPART.
F>om
to locate 11
11 to 12 is 3^ inch
waist; square dt)wn from
puint
is halfway between L and
halfway between M and
thmugh
up; from A to \V an<l 1. to 7 is the straj) measure plus
a line from
to P; shape the
draw a line f|-iini 7 to P; from 7 to '}') is ;]' inch less than
and armscye.
'A
to 4
is 3<^
breast; point 5
is
(!
<!
T)
hum
less
than
J;
draw
f^ inch;
shoulder
by line .")-(>; 7 to
is
breast plus j/j inch; 4 back to 13 is 134
to 10 is li breast; 7
inches; sha])e the front edge from
through
and 13 down to 15;
to 8 is 3/8 breast; draw a line from 8 to 10 and sliape the gorge; 4 back to 27 is 2 inches; Z
shape the side and bottom of forepart.
to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the waist measure net
Square forwards
'
1,
THE
Fruni
20 to 18
a line
is
from
Y
34
to
2.")
is
!t
inches;
2.')
to
'"*^'i
18 to 28;
2(J
is
to 17;
lyj
SKIRT.
inches;
12 to 28
is
the
shown, rounding
it
inch at 26.
THE COLLAR.
Draw
is
two
The
the gorge;
the same;
sizes
is
shirt collar;
is
8%
inches;
from 10 to 22; 10 to 22
the collar as shown.
is
tlic
square
linish
U|)
is
the
734
is
la
DIAGRAM
113
203
-oi
DIAGRAM
114
FOOTMAN'S COATEE.
The measurements are as follows
Scye depth
(}^ inches
Natural waist
Fashionable waist
18;./,
FTdl length
;;c>
Strap
17>^ inches
13
inches
inches
Breast
38
inches
inches
Waist
Si
inches
I2>^ inches
S(|uare
down and
From A
to
waist length:
and
Overshoulder
Blade
10^4 inches
is
is
out from A.
is
halfway between
B, C, D and E.
F";
length;
full
is
and B
is
is
fashionable
halfway between
to
is
to
From
S
is
breast;
}(,
3^ breast
to
is
to J
is
to
draw
G^^ inches;
square
From X to Y is
way between Y and
134 inches;
point 3
a line
to
is
to locate
down from
inches;
is I'/z
square up from
;
draw a
jA indentation;
is
y, breast;
.S
line
is
from
to 24.
1>4 inches;
W;
draw
a line from A to
from }i inch below
draw
a line
W to P
to
to
THE SIDEBODY.
to 3 is }i inch; O
to
is
I's
breast;
point
is
half-
is
1/2
THE
From Y
23 to 19
is 14
to
2.5 is
inch
9 inches;
more than S
25 to
to 17
2(;
is
SKIRT.
draw a line from 22 through 3G down;
same distance as 33 to 19 draw a line
ly. inches;
12 to 18
is
the
DIAGRAM
114
205
206
DIAGRAM
115
MESS JACKET.
The mea'^urements are as follows:
inches
9
Scye depth
Overslumlder
Blade
17
inches
Waist length
IG
13^
inches
llj^ inches
Breast
36
inches
Full length
20
inches
Waist
32
inches
Strap
12
inches
inches
From A
length;
to
is
F",
inch
halfway between
B, C, D and E.
length;
is full
is
is
and B
waist length
fashionable waist
is
halfway betwen
is
R and
and F;
down
from
H to I is '1. breast; I to J is 1^ inches; J to l-i is J4 inch; K is halfway between H
and I; K to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to locate M; apply the blade measure
from H to L, which is IS^/^ inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O
From C
is
to
indentation
is y'z
draw
to
square
134 inches.
From
j\
to 'M
inches;
is 6;]/8
is
the
to
is 'iy>
THE SIDEBODY.
From X
to
is l^/^
tween
and
inches;
to 18;
down from Y;
square
1 to 2 is
inch;
to
is
20 to 17
point
breast;
-^i
is
is
inch
halfway be-
THE FOREPART.
From
to 4
is
3^ waist;
down from
square
this locates 11
from
11 to
\'i
is
jA inch
less
^i/J
from Z to Y,
4 back to 27 is 2J4 inches
shape the side and bottom of forepart-
From
net
The
collar is a standing
one and
is
to
as
and 27 to 21
shown
in other
is
diagrams.
30 28
DIAGRAM
115
8(i;
208
DIAGRAM
116
CHAUFFEUR'S SACK.
The measurements
are as follows
Overshoulder
Blade
Indentation
V/i inches
Scye depth
Waist length
93/2
J7
inches
Breast
Full length
'i'i
inches
Waist
35^
Strap
18%
inches
Seat
41 J4 inches
inches
inches
18
13/4 inches
inches
39
inches
From A
is full
to
length;
is
is
out from G, B, C,
halfway between
and E.
and B
waist length
is
to
halfway between
is
is 6
inches
to
and F; square
From C
to 3
^4 inch
is
draw
a line from
to 2
From
is
to 8
!)
breast;
]b
From
to
is
to 11
and L
to
is
measure plus
the strap
inch
shape
draw
a line
from
to
O;
tlie
is
breast plus y2 inch; draw a rounding line
V by line T-U V to
from
to X is J^ breast
from
to J
V to Y is J^ breast draw a liiie from Y to X and
shape the gorge; from J to 13 is SJX inches; S to 13 is the same; from Q to R is % inch;
draw a line from R through S to 13 and square down by that line; this locates 16.
From
16 to 17
and 15 to 20
18;
the
is
y& breast;
is
'ii
from
back to 15
is
the
is
2 inches; square
draw a line from 18 through 20 down and shape the side of forepart; from
same distance as from 5 to 7 shape the bottom of forepart and finish.
18 to 21
is
from 26 back to 24
is
THE COLLAR.
From
to 26
is
the
same distance
as
to 11 on the backpart
inch
29 to 30
is
and square out to 25; shape the collar as shown by the broken
line
and
finish.
dia(;ram uo
209
210
DIAGRAM
117
CHAUFFEUR'S OVERCOAT.
Tlie
9^
Scye depth
inches
inches
17
Waist length
Full length whatever heighth requires
Overshoulder
Blade
17j^ inches
13
inches
Breast
38
inches
3i
inches
Waist
12J^ inches
Strap
'.
to
is
between
and C;
From D
to 2
is
H;
21 and
from 21 to L
is
1 to 21 is
J4 breast;
1}4 inches;
to
is
draw
is
if
the material
inches;
to 8
is 63/g
to
from
down;
and 15;
is Ij,^
is IJ/4
inches or
to 4
or 2
halfway between
is 1
same distance
1^
to
3^
is
through 6 down
3 to 18 is the
is
Q; apply
19 to 20
may- be
it
inch;
is ^'4
square
hea\y
is
to locate
inches;
is ly'i
a line
inches; 8 to 9
halfway between
19 to 6
through
is
From
1%
down;
I^
square up and
is J<2
J-^
(i
inch;
halfway
is
to 9
inches;
make
inch
-i
the
to 3
as from 3 to
;
to 10
5-
is 'A
breast;
draw a line
is li breast plus J< inch;
Square forwards from V by line T-U V to
to J
to X is li breast; V to Y is J/^ breast: draw a line from Y to X and shape
from
the gorge; X to 25 is ;4 inch; cut out a V a^ between X and 25; J to 12 is 3J,-2 inches;
S to 13 is the same; Q to R is 1 inch; draw a line from R to 13 and square down bj' that
;
line;
IC to 17
is
Ys breast; 12 to 24 is
will he 83/
34
int" lies.
inches; from 5 to 14
center plait
is
is
the
desired, add
same
from
ai>Q
THE COLLAR.
from X to 28 is the same as the size of the
halfway between X and 28; square up from
shape the collar stand from 28 through 30 to X from 28 to
29 from 29 to 30 is l}i inches
31 is 1% inches; from X to 32 is ^4 inch; shape the collar crease from 31 through 33
from 31 to 33 is the same distance as the top width of the back place the square to
to 33
points 31-33 and square up to 34 from 33 to 34 is ^4 i'lcli
now place the square to points
31-34 and square up to 35; 31 to 35 is the width of the collar desired; 32 to 36 is the same;
shape the collar and finish as shown.
Draw
through
\^
point 29
is
The
than
finished.
it
ctit
is
>7*
DIAGRAM
117
211
218
DIAGRAM
118
RIDING SACK.
measurements are as follows:
'I'lie
Scye depth
Waist lengtli
".>
'
lilade
]"43'-'
Breast
'M
inches
inches
Waist
3"2
inches
Seat
.'^8
inches
Full length
84
Strap
12
inches
1?
inches
)vershoulder
Stiuarc (Inwn and
l'"rfim
length;
is
B, C, I)
and E.
im-hes
inches
inches
fnmi A.
<iut
to
is
waist length
C'
tn
halfway between
(I is
.\
1) is
inclies
(1
and
to
.\
square
1';
i)Ut
is full
li
from
(1,
is
'._.
the
Point
to
as
.M
halfway l)etween
is
is 12
breast;
to 4;
draw
I'Voni
]'
to
to 4
IS
is
to
")
inches:
is l)f'8
from
a<l<l
S to
is
!)
'
U
is
For
riding sack
it
inch
draw
22 to 7 ts
to
fnini 4"
a line
to
is
from
;}/8
\'
is
to 12
to
1'4 nulies.
to 21,
point
a line
">
1'
is
halfv\ay between
through
\"
to
up;
L"
to
!i
to 11
Irom
and S; point
and L to V
( ).
is
\'
line
11
up from X; N
the same distance
is
breast;
is
_>
to
down from
inch; stiuare
-y^
from
a line
and L;
from
is
tlirough
2.j t<i J
inch;
."s
\'
S to
scpiarc
to
13 is
the
by
the
'
,h
line 4"-U
breast;
to
\'
same; from Q
]'> by line I-i-S
to
;
is
'i.
shape the
is
breast;
forwards from
stjuare
down from
V4
to
and
indentation;
Ifl
to 17
breast.
<i
213
13*-=
DIAGRAM
118
^i
$!D
S)E
214
DIAGRAM
RIDING SACK.
119
(Continued).
This
tish as
amount
at 26
and open
shown down
of drapery.
to 18
from 26 down
it
and
to
between 27 and
finish.
S7
28
DIAGRAM
119
215
216
DIAGRAM
120
RIDING FROCK.
The measurements
are as follows
9^
Scye depth
Natural waist length
Fashionable waist length
Full length whatever style
inches
IQyi inches
I814 inches
calls for.
Overshoulder
Blade
lli/s
inches
13
inches
Breast
38
inches
Waist
34
inches
12J4 inches
Strap
From A
to
waist length
is
is full
length
is
is
halfway between
and E.
and B
(i is
fashionable
is
halfway between
and
to Q and square
halfway between
apply the blade measure
H and I K to L is 3>4 inches square down from L to locate
from H to L which is 13 inches and square up; N is halfway between H and L; N to O
is 134 inches; from A to 24 is the same distance as H to O; draw a. line from O to 24.
From C
to
I is
down;
to
is
>4 indentation;
>4 breast
to J
is
draw
a straight line
1>4 inches; J to 14
from
is
through
.\
inch;
i/^
is
A to V is
a line from A to U
below
to
P from
from
inch
draw a line
% breast square up from V to locate
J4
is
inches;
Y
1^4
1 to
Q to S is >^ breast; square down from S and shape the back; X to
above
the
waistline;
2 is .54 inch; point Z is halfway between Y and M; point 3 is yi inch
shape the sidebody as shownFrom A
to
is
Gys inches;
to
is
V/> inches;
draw
11 to 12 is ^ breast
square down from 4; this locates 11
waist
short so that when
front
have
the
necessary
to
less 1 inch.
waist
seam.
break
above
the
should
not
the
coat
sitting on a horse
From
to 4
is
waist;
In a riding frock
it is
draw a line
Point 5 is halfway between M and 4; point 6 is halfway between L and J
and L to 7 is the strap measure plus ^ inch; draw a line
from 5 through 6 up A to
shape the shoulder and armscye square
to P
from 7 to P 7 to 23 is }i inch less than
draw a rounding line from 9
forwards from 7 by line 5-6 7 to 9 is' Ve breast plus J4 '"ch
from 4 back to 27
square forwards from 8 and shape the gorge
7 to 8 is 3/^ breast
to 14
waist measure net; shape the side and
is 2>4 inches; Z to Y, X to R and 27 to 21 is the
;
bottom
of forepart.
From
14 to 15
is
1J4 inches; 4 to 13
THE
Draw
a straight line
from 12 to 22
is
the same.
SKIRT.
IG
22 to 20
is
finish.
inch;
is
1>^
draw
inches;
to 17; 12 to 18
inch at 26;
16(1)/
(8
13H
DIAGRAM
1?n
21';
318
DIAGRAM
121
COLLARS.
shows a collar made up with a >traight crease; after deciding upon the length
of the lapel, go out from A to B," 1)4 inches; this represents the collar stand; draw a line
from the lapel, crease through B; from E to D is 1)4 inches; from C to D is >4 inch more
swing out the
than the top width of the back; square down from E to D by line B-E
collar about 14. inch at E and make the distance from E to E according to the style of
collar desired. and shape.
Figure
For a long
roll
the collar
is
made
as
shown on
made up
inches; draw
of the back;
in
figure
this collar is
the
through B; C tu
figure
in
2.
As
the crease
for figure
is
34 inch
]._
is
to be straight,
From A
to
is
1%
1.
F"igure 3 shows a collar made up slightly horse-sh(je, or a rounded collar slightly hollowed at the crease line. It is made as follows: A to B is 1 inch; draw a line through
B; this locates E; from E to G is j^ inch; (1 to H is 134 inches; draw a line from H to
A; from C to H is the same as the top width of the back, plus 34 inch; square up from H
to G by line A-H swing out the collar about 3/4 inch at F
G to E is the width of collar
desired shape the collar. This collar must be slightly shrunk on the crease.
For a man with a short neck or for a fat man's coat, the collar should be made as
shown on figure 4. F^rom A to B is ;54 inch; draw a line from the lapel crease through B;
to 11 is the same; draw a line as from H through
this locates E; from E to (! is 1 inch;
C to A from C to li is 3/4 inch nmrc than the toj) width of l)ack s(|uarc up from H to G by
line H-C and finish the collar.
;
shows how to make an ulster collar to either roll or button this collar is made
from A to B is 134 inches; draw a line through B; C to D is I34 inches; D
is the same as the top
to F' is the same; draw a line from F^ through V to A; from F' to
width of back plus 34 inch; from F" to (1 is 1 J-4 inches; sliapc the collar crease from I)
through G into the crease line square up from G.
F'igure 5
as follows:
]".
From G
To have
inch and
to
leaf of collar
this collar
make another
from
in this
D-H and
manner
so that
when
to
J.
In the
line
in at
go up from
making up
1-B-J.
to
I,
rolled
scjuare
shows how to make a standing collar, also a standing rolling collar- This collar
draw a line from A through C; from A to B is 1 inch more than 34 of
the shirt collar size. This collar when finishe
must measure 2 inches more than the shirt
collar; draw a line from B through O into the gorge; square up from B by line B-D
from B to V. is tiie width of the collar desired plus a scam; A to F is the same, shape the
Figure
is
made
as follows:
collar as siiown
F"or a
inch;
by the
solid line.
leaf at
about
3/2
place the standing collar so as line E-G- will touch on the broken line corresponding
shape out as from E to H and from F to I; now cut out the outer leaf the
same as shown by the broken line; those two parts of the collar arc to be sewn together
at those points;
at line
E-G-F.
diagrams.
in
DIAGRAM
l:.'!
219
my
DIAGRAM
122
that
all
needed
is
is
full
length measure-
The measurements
this
for
Scye depth
inches
Waist length
IGJ/ inches
Strap
12
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
17
inches
12>< inches
fr(jm
Breast
36
Waist
Opening
32
1/2
inches
Full length
253/2
inches
.\.
is
From C
(;
to
makes
and B
.\
to 2
is
inch
-}{i
is
halfway between
draw
from
a line
waist length
to 2
this locates
halfway between
is
from 20 to
From A
\J is 14
is
to
to
2^
is
inches; this
your own individual ideas; E i's halfand E; square out from F, B. C. and D.
to
to 1 is
inch; J is halfway between
134 inches;
the waistcoat one size smaller than the coat; square
is
inches
distance
way between
11
inches
from
and
J to
down from
this case
s(|uare
is
to
is
"^ breast
inches
to locate
12 inches
up from
is 3
this
L; apply
inch.
is
6^
S to
inches;
is
to locate
I'/z
inches;
draw
a line
A to T from A
W; now add 54 i'lfh
from
to
to
'/b
From P
draw
a line
From L to 6 is inch j to 12 is I/4 inches; draw a line frcim 12 to 6 and shape the side
and bottom of forepart; 7 is halfway between 2 and 6; from 7 to 8 is 34 vvaist; 7 to 9 is 34
waist plus .^4 inch; shape the center of back through 9 and the side from 12 through 8 to
10; lengthen the back at 10, 3/g inch and finish.
1
If
ing
the overshoulder
inch to
it.
is
to be used, apply
it
in
the
same way
as
shown on sack
coat, add-
DIACRAM
n-i
221
2S2
DIAGRAM
123
are as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
inches
Breast
38
17
inches
My2
inches
Strap
123/4
inches
Waist
Opening
13
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
Full length
26^
inches
13
i>y
17^^ inches
inches
inches
From A
to
From C
is
is
halfway between
to 2
is 3,^
square
down
this case
inch
H to
from K to
134 inches;
it is
123/4
draw
is
a line frc^m
inch;
to 2
this locates
is
to
(j
is
2^4 inches;
frcmi
ciut
to
G
J
!",
is j/S
B,
breast;
to
inch from
34
is
1
is
C and D.
to
inches;
to K, in
halfway between 1 and K; X to 3 is y^ inch; s(|uare uji fmiu 3; this locates 20;
inches; draw a line from A to T; A
linch; A to S is 0^ inches; S to T is
\'
to
draw
square
from
locate
a line from \' to
add on 34 inch
breast;
up
U
to U is J^
'")-4
on
top
also
inch
of
back
as
at
A-V.
line
add
to the shoulder as at
34
is
20 to \V
is
'
..
From L
to
is
34 waist; point
is
halfway between
up; A to 5 and
draw a line from N through
from P to R is % inch
inch; draw a line from P to
^ inch and shape the shoulder and armscye as shown
and
L and
to P
() i^
halfway between
is
.V4
go forwards from K
sc|uare forwards from P by line N-O
This vest being cut with a collar it does not lose a seam
less
than
')
to 4
from P
at
to
as the collar
is
sewed on
flat.
From P to Y is '0 breast plus 3-4 inch; shai)e the front edge from Y through I and M
down; apply the opening measure plus % inch in this case from A to 5 and P to I, also the
is
inch; from J to 12 is I34
inch from A to 5 and P to Z from L to
full length plus
and shape the side of forepart and finish.
inches; draw a line from 12 to
1
(i
C>
7 is
DIAGRAM
123
223
224
DIAGRAM
124
diagram shows a waistcoat for a figure with a large blade. The measurements
same as in the previous diagram except that the blade measure is I'Syi inches.
I'his
are the
From A
is
to
is
halfway between
and B
is
waist length;
is
halfway between
and E
to
is
2^
inches;
C and
D.
to
is
to 2
is
inch; J
inch
is
P"rom 20 to
inch;
draw
a line
DIAGRAM
This diagram shows how to make
The measurements
that the blade
are the
12'
is
same as described
inches instead of
l.'i
in
From C
down from
12
is
inch
to 2
is
4-4
draw
a line
from E to
from
From A back
E;
is
chest.
is
to
from
halfway between
is
is
3/2
J to
breast
is 3
to
inches; square
in this case
;
to 3
is
it
J/^
3.
to 12
12 to
down from Z
is
C.
(J;
square up and
B and
wajst length;
out from F,
square up from
from
from 12 to
is
inches;
line
inch
full
.\.
1J4 inches;
hack and
flat
inches.
and B
125
is
}4 of the distance of
12 to S
is
6^
inches; S to
from
is
tt>
lJ/4
to locate \'
and
Z, in
inches;
;
draw
point
this case
draw
is
inch
from
draw
A to T
W; from
from V to
halfway between Z and
a line
J/4
a line
From
12 to 5
per broken
line.
and Z to P is the strap measure plus ^ inch shape the back from 12 to E as
Otherwise finish the waistcoat the same as shown on the other diagrams.
;
124
DIAGRAM
123
225
^'^'i
DIAGRAM
126
DOUBLE-BREASTED WAISTCOAT.
measurements are
Tlie
as follows:
Scye depth
Waist length
IT
inches
Blade
Breast
Strap
12^
inches
Waist
Overshoulder
18
inches
dy'z
inches
13 j4 inches
3d
inches
351/2
inches
From A
is
halfway between
to
From C
to 2
is
and B; F
'-y^
j/4
inch;
waist length;
i>
halfway between
is
from
to 2;
\^/4
From A
to
is
to
breast
'/b
is
inch;
to
square up from
6^
is
(i
up from
;
is
<ier
to 5
and
to
is
measure
'"'^h
to
inch from
^'2
to locate \'
inch
jilus ^4
from
is
(i
K; from X
the strap
to
draw
M
;
is
j/..
K
1
is
a line
'j
E
C and
D-
is
2}^ inches;
is
to 3
inches; S to
to
from
(_'
F, H,
breast;
to
is
inches; square
is 3
to K, in this case
is
I'/i
inch; square
y'j
draw
inches;
from
waist; point
to \V
add
half-
is
O
to
and armscye.
From
back to 13
is '2
inch
on the backpart
J4 inch less than A to
to Q and finish the top neckpiece.
is
Ti
frcmi
to
1'
is
11
11
Apply the opening measure plus '^4 inch fnmi II tn 17, and the full length plus 94 iticli
11 to Z; draw a line from Q through 17 ddwn; make the button stand from 15 to Iti
according to style; from Z to M is 134 inches; draw a line from 14 to 16; add on ^ inch in
front of 16-14 which is for the make-up of edge and the button-hole; from L to 6 is 1 inch;
and shape the side of forepart.
inches; draw a line from 12 through
f to 12 is 1J4
from
(i
7 is
halfway between
and
7 to S is J4
waist
7 to 9 is ^4
the center and side of backpart and finish, adding tn the fiackpart
Where
fish
double-breasted waistcoat
is
tliis
withnut
diagram.
cut
waist plus
->8
inch at
a separate re\er,
it
inch
-54
shape
10.
is
well to cut a
14
DIAGRAM
126
227
228
DIAGRAM
After the forepart
is
it
shown and
over as
127
at line 17-Z;
shape
ofif
the Ijottom
mark
finish.
DIAGRAM
128
If a waistcoat is cut with a separate rcver proceed as on Diagrams \2S and !>'!.
l'"ini>li
your vest regular, after which cut ofif 34 inch from the front edge of the forepart all the
way down, following the regular line as shown by those diagrams. After which proceed
as follows: draw a straight line from 17 to Z
make the distance from Z to 14, IJl- inches
or according to your own ideas; make the width at l(i about Ji'l inches and draw a line as
from l(i to 14. Add % inch in front of line l(i-14 for the makeup of the edge and buttonholes.
;
Reshape the neck as from 1 through IT down; add in front oi IT-Ki about 'j inch for
two seams. This style of vest should be made with a collar. To make the collar for this
to 4
style of vest proceed as follows: go down from 1 to 2, 34
breast; square out from
by line 1-2; make the distance from 2 to 3 about l'v4 inches and from
to 4 the width of
the lapel desired; go up from 4 to 5 about
inch; from 2 to
is the same <listance as
Draw an imaginery line for a seam as from
from 2 to
to
now shape the collar as
desired; this is shown so as to give an idea of about the proportionate length of the collar
<^'f
'i
.">
(i
;].
and
;i
(i
lapel.
DIAGRAM
After the rever
as shown.
is
it
129
229
W4
C5
<
<
Q
00
0
<:
Pi
o
<
<
O
<
^30
DIAGRAM
130
are as follows:
Scye depth
9>4 inches
Breast
40
inches
Waist length
17
inches
Waist
40
inches
Strap
13
inches
Opening
ISJ/^
inches
Overshoulder
Blade
18^
inches
Full length
273/^
inches
ISyi inches
From A
to
is
halfway between
is
and B
is
jjlus
'-4
inch;
is
halfway between
waist length;
and
F.
to
3^
is
inches;
C and
D.
From C
to 3
is
inch
draw
a line from
to 2
From
20- to
T A
inch;
is 1
to S
is
6^
inches
S to
is IJ/2
to
is
breast
M Q
is
the
5 to 4
to
from
K
H draw a
inch
draw
strap measure plus ^
a line
square
go forwards 34 inch from K and
;
A
%
to 5
of forepart.
add
DIAGRAM
i:iit
2:^1
233
DIAGRAM
After the forepart
131
is
and B
the bottom.
amount
to
about
131
is
'
of convexity necessary to
it
to
shown
in
diagram
open as between
Reshape
DIAGRAM
131
333
rM
DIAGRAM
132
ineasurenK'nts
as fiilluws:
artr
Scye depth
Waist length
Strap
131/2
rjvershnulder
19
Blade
14
inches
fmm
to
to 2
to
is
from
42
inches
44
inches
inches
Waist
Opening
14
inches
inches
Full length
2Sy2 inches
A.
is >'4 incii
is
draw
is
-waist length;
halfway between
and E
from
is
H
K
Breast
9f^ inches
inches
17
a line
inch;
from E to
to
2^
is
inches;
C and
('
is Vi
breast
(i
to
is
D.
1%
is
half-
inclie'-
from
to
y4 inch; square up a short line from I; J is halfway between 1 and Ci
inches: square down from K to locate L; apply the blade measure minus Vz inch
is
to K. in this case
is
it
is
.'!
-'IS
and
lar
down;
inch
applv the
I'Vom
side
if
the vest
is
is
N-O
line
full
I.
to
is
of forepart: point
waist plus
3,4
inch
by same
line; this
inch from
inch from
to 5
to 5
and P to
and P
Z.
1%
inch: J to 13
and bottom
to 2 is
to
is
"
is
fi
fi
the backpart
shown on diagram
131.
is
it
in
the
same way as
DIAGRAM
132
2:i:.
236
DIAGRAM
133
arc as folk)\vs:
iiiclies
Breast
4:^
inches
inches
Waist
4"-i
inches
13'
inches
(Jpening
I!*
inches
Full length
inches
Scye depth
Waist lengtli
17
Strap
".tj-^
Overshoulder
Blade
Square down and uut
to
is
to 2
is
)'4
and B
inch;
inches
Irimi A.
halfway between
inches
l.'i
^y,' j
h"
draw
is
inch;
'4
a line frcmi
I-",
waist length;
is
halfway between
from
tn 2;
to
is
to
is 'j
breast;
2^4 inches;
to
(J
C and
F, B,
is
]\
is
D-
134 inches;
to
is J4
inch; square
is
I!
II
'
'<
,.
to T.
From A
J/4
inch
tct
to
is 'i
to locate
V; draw
a line
from
back; frcmi
i.if
\'
tn
to
W
M
adil
is
y'2
jxiint
armscye.
Square forwards from P by line N-O also scjuare forwards from O by the same line
inch from P tn 11 is 3/4 inch less than A to 5 on the backlocates 18; from P to (J is
draw a line from 1 to Q and finish tiie neckpiece.
this
l)art
1.")
From L back
down;
through
between
(i
and
to C
is
inch; J to 12
is
\%
12
also add I2 inch to the forepart and backpart at 10; point 7 is halfway
6; from 7 to 8 is ^4 waist; from 7 to 2 is 34 waist plus .V4 inch; cut out the
shown on diagram
134.
<1
iiattern
the
same as
DIAC.KAM
i;'.;i
237
2;i8
DIAGRAM
134
and
and
and o\erlap
it
2,
as between 5
and
(!
is
well, besides
from
!)
to
1(1;
overlapping
it
adtl
seam
being loose.
DIAGRAM
134
'239
840
DIAGRAM
135
'I'lie
Scye depth
inches
Breast
3G
inches
33
inches
Waist length
16^
inches
Strap
13
inches
Waist
Opening according
Overshoulder
Blade
IT
inches
Fidl length
Square
l'"roni
25>^ inches
I^JS inches
<lo\vn
to style
til
11
hallway hetween
is
and B; F
i'l'-"''
halfway between
is
i"^
waist length
and
]",
;
to
is
234 inches;
C and
B,
I*",
is
D.
is I1-4
to 2; 1 to (i is y, breast; (i to
inch; draw a line from
to
square
down
(i;
K
is
inches;
1
and
between
halfway
is
inch;
j
to
inches:
}i
J
tu
fmni
in
this
case
12
minus
inch
K,
measure
blade
apply
the
from
to locate L;
ij inch; square up from 3
tn
:!
is
K;
X
between
and
is
halfway
inches and square up; X
From C
to 2
is
1'^.
"/4
I is
:!
'
_.
to locate 20; 20 to \V
inch;
to S
is
6}i inches; S to
is
XjA inches;
draw
a line
from
u>'r.
Frohi
is
til
is
breast
point
at
square up from
to locate \'
draw
a line
frum
\'
'>-[.
N is halfway between L
N through O up; from A to 5 and K to P
P tn W from P to R is 3^ inch less than
from
from
up; shape the shoulder and armscye.
;
is
tn
is
ai-ld
y2 waist:
draw
a line
go forwards
5 to 4;
3/4
inch from
K and
square
and from P
inch; apply the o])cning measure jilus 3 inch from A to
is
From P to
inch frum A lu < and 1' tn Z; shape
wherever the opening comes, also full length plus
breast; draw a line from Y
the front edge from I through AI down; from M back to Y is
to Q; shape the opening, adding a little round to the straight line as shown in this diagram
'4 inches; shape the side and bottom of forepart.
is 1 inch; I to 12 is
from L to
Ti
to
'1'.
from 7 to 8 is % waist;
halfwav between 2 and
of
backpart and finish.
inch; shape the center and sideseam
Point
The
7 is
(1
waistcoat collars,
is
cut
flat
no stand.
to 9
is
DIAGRAM
135
241
242
DIAGRAM
136
diagram
in this
of a single-breasted waistcoat;
a straight line
inches;
from B through
to 15 is 2VS inches;
makeup
go back from
D down
draw
of the edge
made
this waistcoat is
to
a line
from
the
up
same
as
shown
after
same
as
breast;
shown on diagram
a line
Line
A-D
draw
a line
is
the same;
from Z to ]4
draw
is
1J4
in the
line
shown,
127.
DIAGRAM
This diagram shows
regular edge
line
'li
to
is tlie
and buttonholes.
from
to 16,
center line;
tlmmgh
IT)
A-C
and from C
j/ inch
this locates
^4 '"ch the
draw
as follows: line
how
to
make
137
from
Sr inch
fur
to
is
makeup
SJj inches;
to
V
E
shaped front
is 3',^
inches;
and reshape
243
344
DIAGRAM
138
CLERGYMAN'S WAISTCOAT
As
rejjeat
measuremeiUs
the
same
in
fur
each case.
same,
tlie
is
it
not necessary to
same as
in
previous diagrams.
Scjuare drnvn and out from A.
From A
is
to
is
halfway between
and B
is
inch;
is
halfway between
waist length;
to
is
2^
inches;
F, B,
and D.
from E tn 2; imm to (i is l^ breast G to H is 1 J4 inches;
H to I is -V^ inch; J is halfway between and (i; to K is inches; square dnwn from K
inch from
to K and square uj) X is halfway
to locate L; apply the lilade measure minus
between and K; from X to 3 is 'S inch; square up from 3 to locate '20; from 20 to \\' is 1
inch; A to S is G^ inches; S to T is I],-! inches; draw a line from A to T.
to 2
is j/i
inch
draw
a line
I!
'
..
From A
add
draw a line from \' to
L' to locate \'
is
to
to
M
i"^-"li
the
top
of
back;
from
L
add
inch to the shoulder
J4
waist; point N is halfway between L and J\l point () is halfway between K and H draw a
line from N through O up; from A to b and K to P is the strap measure plus .)4 inch; draw
from P to R is }i inch less than 5 to 4 go forwards .)4 i'^ch from K and
a line from P to
square up; shape the shoulder and armhole.
to
breast
is '&
square up from
as at 5-4, also
J,.^
(J
C>
sideseam of back.
THE COLLAR
From
to 12 is
'-^
is
inch
more
than y2 of the shirt collar size; shape the collar from 13 into the gorge line; from 13 to 14
to
is the heighth of the collar desired; make the distance from 12 up the same as from 13
11
finish.
DIAGRAM
138
2i5
246
DIAGRAMS
These diagrams show how
with a seam
in the
139
&
a clergyman's waistcoat
Diagram 139
center front.
140
may
be
made
to button
inmt edge
J4 inch as
from
on the side
to 2
and
3 to
4.
Place the front pattern on a piece of paper and mark around the side, shoulder and armhole as
shown on
Diagram
this
diagram
draw
140 represents the extra piece tiiat has been traced out and this
is
to be used
part.
DIAC.KAM
189
DIAGRAM
140
317
248
DIAGRAMS
&
141
142
From
front.
from
back to
through
lish fr(.im
2 is
U down
J/j
to 4
is
by the waisthne
to B,
sewn together,
ness and can be
to
Keep
(Diagratid 142.)
gram and
made
C and C
the
two parts
is tt;
of the
made up on
line
from
i)rticeed as
forejiart close at
add
seam
seam
in
to be squared
follows
split
down
the front
to D.
Nothing
is
fnnii
made without
to be
is
sewn, the
frcjnt will
seam
as at
C; overlap
A-B
When
as
until
shown on
these parts,
in front-
at
tlie
this dia-
and B are
amount
o''
round-
DIAGRAM
141
DIAGRAM
142
249
250
DIAGRAM
143
are as follows
inches
Breast
38 inches
my^
inches
Strap
11
inches
Waist
Opening
36 inches
13 inche
Overshoulder
Blade
16^4 inches
Full length
25 inches
Scye depth
Waist length
inches
13
is
to
is
halfway between
tlic
and B; F
is
is
halfway between
waist length;
to
is 2-)4
inches;
anil
D.
F>om C
to 2
is
draw
^4 inch;
a line
',
_.
From
on
to
is
breast
square up fmrn
to locate
''i^l^
a line from V to
back; from L to
draw
to the tup of
W
M
add
is
><
up; the overNow apply the overshoulder measure plus inch from to 4 and from
shoulder measure reaches up to 10, in this case the distance between 13 and 10 is 1^4 inches,
Proceed as follows: add from 4 to ft, Ij^
the overshoulder therefore is 1^ inches short.
inches; from 5 to 11 the same; go in from 1 to 14, 1% inches; draw a line from 14 to E;
1
A-T now
and from
9 into the
armscye.
Now
length plus
to
finish.
and the
full
DIAGRAM
143
Sol
DIAGRAMS
144
&
145
TROUSERS
Measurements
fcir
taken
lie
down
in
the
following
The measurements
for
(Outside length
4"^
Inseam
Waist
i'.ii
:>".!
inches
Seat
38
inches
inclies
Knee
It)
inches
inches
liottom
KJ^j inches
.\.
From A to B is the outside length: from B to C is the inseam plus '^ inch: B to E is
inseam plus 5 inches: C to D is
seat: square out from D, C,
from C to
and B
F is '2 seat: from F to
is .j/l(i inch and 1' to
is the same, or make the distance from
from
to {', is
] to 2, ^^ incli
seat; <i back to 11 is '^4 inch; K is halfwav between C and
'..
1-2
b'.
'.
.s
H.
b'roiu
from L to
the
is
is
THE BACKPART
Diagram
to
is
145.
I'.xtcnd
S-T-R-Q
lines
back to H is
incli
from D to ]0 pivoting
up from
place the square to points
1
.)
ways;
From
the side
is
S to 9
seam
is lA
and
finish-
S to
fr(Tni
\\"
is
]2
pivoting at
\'
at
T to
is 1^
inch;
\'
is
'
!>
inches;
:1
F-('i
until
square both
S.
seat;
is
1'j inches;
draw
a line
cut out as a
inches; from R
Q; from (] to 7
R to '[> is the same; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H sweep
at 14; sweeji from P to
pivoting at 19; 4 to 5 is 1 inch; square
to ~
DIACtRAM
144
DIAGRAM
1.1
'>:.:!
^51
42}4 inches
inches
32
Outside length
Inseam
Waist
42
inches
Seat
44
Knee
Bottom
21
inches
16J/$
inches
inches
From A
to
iiT^eam plus
is
inches; from
'!
to
to
is
E and
'n
is
to
is
B.
inch and ] to 2 is
inch from 1 to G is y^ seat
halfway between C and H B to L is the same distance as from C to K draw a line from L through K up; from L to T is J4 inch less than 14
to R is the same; draw lines from T
bottom: L to S is the same; M to Q is J4 knee;
through Q up; this locates J; sweep from J to G pivoting at Q, also draw a line from S
ic. R and R to C.
From C
to
back to
is
is
}! seat
inch
3/4
to
point
5/1
1 is
fi
is
From N
is
to
is
y^ waist;
to
'i;
is
witii
the
the
same; draw
riglit
to 1 and from O to
whatever the distance
now draw a line from P through
lines frfim
angle touching at 13
13 to
14;
THE BACKPART
from S to \V is }i inch T to V is l^i inches
Q; from G to 7 is 1^ inches; from R to H
is
sweep from D to
inch R to 13 is the same sweep from C backwards pivoting at H
10 ]Mvoting at H; sweep from P to 3 pivoting at 12; from 4 to 5 is 1 inch; square up
from 5; place the square to points F-6 until the right angle touches the sweep as at
and mark both ways; this locates 8.
Diagram
to
1
is
Extend
147.
lines
to 7 pivoting at
.'!
From
from
6 to
S to 9 is JX seat
is }/,
3 cut out as a
waist;
at
to 10
to
is 1
'/j
is IJ^j
inches
draw
line
from
finish.
through 10 up to 3
left between Y and
;
is
I)IA(iKAM
l-tB
DlAGRAAl
255
J47
>.oG
DIAGRAM
148
PEG-TOP TROUSERS
Tlie
measurements are
as follows:
inches
3S
Outside length
41
inches
Seat
Inseani
-i-
inches
Waist
-j"
inches
Knee
Bottom
1
';!
inches
'
inches
Ui
From A
inseam
iilu>
From C
to
'i
to
P.
is
is
inches:
to
is
'j seat;
to
li
to
is
."J,
Hi
inch;
to 2 is
-Vs
l'^
K and
inch;
inch:
to
is
y^
seat;
B.
to
is
Ci
Ys
hack to H is '4 inch; K is halfway between C and 11 from B to L is the same distance as
from C to K; draw a line from L through K up: 1. to T is '4 i"'""li less than I4 bottom;
L to S is the same; draw a line from '!" to H; this locates O; sweep from 11 to (i pivoting
at O; from 'Q to K is ,'4 knee; draw a line from S through E up.
and O to
waist; N to 1' is the same; draw lines from O to
F"rom N to () is
1' through
from
to E.
sideseam
shape
the
and
desired
as
much
as
from
to
C
add
;
v'
il
!)
THE BACKPART
Ivxtend lines T-S,
this locates ];
from
g-I-:,
to
:?
is
;5
seat plus
^.'2
this locate's 8;
inch;
from
to
place
:>
is
the
Pj
1
'
_,
mches
draw
;
1
is yi inch; T
from S through KJ up; S to
plus
measure
waist
the
inch; sweep from (i to 7 pivoting at Q G to T is 1^ inches; apirly
inch for a \' and shape the backpart as shown, adding about
i;,!, inches for seams and
a straight line
to
\' is
1', inches;
to
L' is
inch rounding at
12.
DIAGRAM
148
257
2-^8
DIAGRAM
This diagram slunvs a
'ihe
measurements
]iair
149
heing iJCg-tnp.
are as follows.
Outside length
inclies
Seat
-10
.'!'2'S
inches
Knee
yti
;!4
inches
liottom
Hi'
\'i
Inseam
Waist
inches
inches
inches
!>
I'Voni
inseam plus
to
is
I^)
inches;
to
to
is
I) is 'n
1),
C,
]".
and
',4
inch:
1'
to
!".
is
y,
R.
to 1 is ."i/Ki inch;
to 2 is -y'n inch; from 1 to G is 's seat;
hack to 11 is V^ inch; K is halfway between C and H; B to L is the same distance as
from L" to K; flraw a line from L through K up; from L to T is '4 inch less than 34
bottom; L to S is the same; draw a line from T to H; this locates Q; sweep from 11 to
From C
to
is
]/>
seat;
1'
(i
i)i\oting at
waist;
to
is
the same;
draw
lines
line frcim
from
S to C;
and
to
C)
to 2
From N
to <>
is
34
THE BACKPART
Extend
is
jA inch;
Q; from
lines
to 7
(1
H;
R and U to
])ivoting at
to
to 11 is
inch; R to E is the same; from S to \^
from U to U is
inch; swee;) from G to 7 pivoting at
is 1^ inches; sweep from C backwards pivoting at H; swee]) from D to 10
sweep from P to 3 pivoting at F, apj>ly the knee measure iilus 1 inch from
to
is
J4 inches;
13.
\'i and
R in half; this locates E; from U to 1.'! is the
shape the inseam from 7 through i:i to \' from 4 to H is
from 5; place the scjuare to ])oints F-li until the right angle touches the
inch; square
sweep
at
:i
From
uj)
this locates
8 to 10
15 to ]l
8.
is
yi seat ])lus
1<)
through
\l
to
IK
inches;
draw
W and finish
a line
UIACJRAM H9
250
260
DIAGRAMS
&
150
151
This diagram shows how to make Spring Bottom Trousers. In these trousers the knee
measure is shown to be 18 inches and the bottom 19^ inches; make the front part from
e.. the knee, measure
is
T to S about 2 inches smaller in size than the knee measure,
which
is
of
16.
distance
from
S
to
T,
8
inches,
18 inches, therefore make the
J^
/'.
THE BACKPART
From
plus
is
to
is
inch
T to V is lyi inches; S
T to S and V to 3 point
\' to
is
inches;
to
is J/i inch
measure the bottom,
halfway between 3 and
V to 5
to 2 is the same; shape the backpart
;
is
as shown.
151
This diagram shows how to manipulate the backpart of a pair of trousers
back bow. After the forepart and backpart have been cut out, proceed as follows: split
the backpart as from 1 to 2 overlap th ebackpart as from 2 to 3, y'z or jj^ inch now make the
distance from the inseam notch up to 5 the same distance as it was before being split and reshape the backpart as shown Iiy the broken line. There are quite a number of cutters who
claim that in a back bow the forepart should be made longer and the backpart shorter,
but as a matter of fact, the forepart is made longer because as the backpart becomes shorter
Diagram
for a
is in itself
comparatively longer.
DIAGRAM
i:.(i
DIAGRAM
151
261
262
DIAGRAMS
&
152
153
BROAD FALLS
The
niitciied
to
is
facing lur
on the
the
hmad
fcireitart,
falls
is
mark C
to D,
inch;
is
to
the
;
IS
and
):)
same as
E D
to
incii
falls
to
is 2}/,
to J
I"
to II
is
to
the same;
iinish as rejiresented.
2Jj inches;
11
to J
is
v^J
inch;
FALLS
Line D-I"
is
as indicated.
NARROW
The narrow
cut as folldws:
is
draw
the same;
a line
1*"
to
draw
from
is
is
a line
to
"^
L; cut
(i
from
T)
to
!'
from
through K; from
to
to
inches;
from
draw
a line
in the forepart
from
DIAGRAM
152
DIAGRAM
153
.'G:i
2G4
DIAGRAMS
Trousers
for
together;
find as nearly as
is
in the
and inseam by
155
diagram loo).
is
&
154
is
means
of space there
as
inch,
which
filling in slightly at
is
is
follows:
one-half the
to
bowed
1
',
(diagram
inches.
Now,
154).
anmunt
C and reducing
is
the
of the l)ow.
same amount
Reshape
at
A-B.
DIACKA.M
l.jl
DIAGRAM
155
205
2(i(i
DIAGRAM
156
RIDING BREECHES
lie nicasuri'il in tlic follnwiny manner: I'lrsl lake llie outside
to the top of the lieel in tiie regular way, then the inseam in
next take the waist and seat measures in the usual way for trousers.
Riding
lirccclifs arc
In
seam
the
length,
regular
Now
42
Inseam
''i'A
(This leaves a
rise
of
'J'/j
inches.)
Waist
'''>
Seat
'>'>
To
To
The
to
knee
1^
10
ly,"-^
may
be
made according
to
proceed
witli
inches
inches
inches
inches
inches
Around
Around
Around
Around
Now
indies
inches
14,'4
11
inches
inches
diagram.
Scjuare
I'rom C to H is M seat: 11 to Ml is
seat; point K is halfway l)etween C and Ul; si|uare up from
to X, J/i i"ch and draw a line from X to Y; from X to Y is '/j
H: thi^ locates W; go down fnnii
waist; from H to I is 1/2 inch; 10 to J is the same; from B to L is '4 seat; draw a line from L through
K up; this locates points O and M; from M to N is '4 knee: O to P is '4 small of knee: from L to Q
'
is
extension
If the
;4 calf.
is
,,
tlie
distance
fr(uii
i;
U,
to
ankle.
l-rom
line
from
to
is
inch;
through
THE BACKPART
%
Extend
through
all
1)
llie
from
up;
'.i
scat;
draw
line
from
inches; from 1 to 5 is
is yi waist plus 2 inches;
to U;
down througli 1' and
inches: draw a line from T to N and from
inch.
If the measurements are taken over
to 22 is the ankle measure plus
the trousers they are to lie cut without any addition, but if taken over the drawers, there is to be 1
This includes all tlie measurements, i. e.. the calf, the small of the knee and the knee
inch additicni.
nieasiireincnts,
h'rom
from
to
to T
is
and
1-J4
from
to
to
and
R and N
,").
the clolli is soft and can easily be shaped with the iron, the baekpart is to be stretched between
Usually tlie
Q, also between 4 and 2, and the front part is to be fulled in above the knee.
kind of material riding breeches is made of is hard to press, in wdiich case split the baekpart between
These two pieces are to be sewn together
3 and 4 and N and P; take out IJ^ inch lisli under the knee.
which is taken out between 20 and 21 is to
and tliis helps to form the baekpart of the trousers. The
give the proper round over the calf.
If
N and
From
11)
and
18.
IS to 20
When
and from
this
is
to 21 is the same distance as has been taken (.nit between l!i and
up. it will rcquirethis much more length in order to gi\e the
sewn
lop of the
V and
bottom
20
81
DIACRAM
JJG
2(u
.'08
DIAGRAM
Riding l^recches witlmut
diagram
151!,
exteiisioiis.
made
These
is
lirecclies are
made
the
same as shown
157
is
no
tish
is
uii
such as
and the
cut one-halt" incli shorter than the forepart so as to allow for the stretching un-
DIAGRAM
157
2fii)
270
DIAGRAM
158
COACHMAN'S BREECHES
Tlic nieaMiremcnts
nseam
Waist
Seat
to
is
Draw
line A-T!
I'^rom
i:!
inches
Knee
;i;j
inches
Small of knee
;!;i
inches
Calf
;i'.i
inches
length
)iitside
as fullnws:
;ire
is
t(i
inches;
to
inches
:!
inches
inches
11
is
l.'i
D is %
H is
of the inseam,
]/>
inches;
\'i' j
C, D, E,
!;
tu
i>
:'<
inches; from
1(1
inches; from
to
and B.
From C to
'/j
In get P; tlraw a
seat; from 11 to j is ''4 inch; square u\> imm
from II to P to get 2'i; from j t(j L is 's seat; L hack tn K is s.s inch pnint T? is half11
is the same distance as C to 1"*; draw a line from
way between C and K from B to
through 12 to locate imints 2(1, 25 and
\
line
).
Frnm
11
to
is J/|
nf the calf;
than
to S;
2(i
From
from
to
2.)
is
11
to
to 2t
is
from
is
1:1
2(1
toS
is
',4
34 waist; () to
the
is
s.irc.e;
t(j
to
II
T; from
to 21
2(1
is
R
1
is
y^ of
inch less
R.
THE BACKPART
Extend
From T
S In
(;
from
(!
to 7
to
and
inch; from
through 4
is
l:i
to
1(1
is
to 22
2 to 5 is
3/2
is 2
is
ure plus
lines 12-0,
inches;
waist plus
inch
()
inch
and
to 2
;
fr(]m
is
draw
finish
:is
'j
to 24
waist;
a line
and R
from
indicated.
to
5 to
to
is
23
\'
'.
is
draw
seat;
to
(I
is
i"!
a line
seat
DIAGRAM
158
271
.373
DIAGRAM
159
KNICKERBOCKERS
nu-asurcmeiits are as follows:
I'Ik-
1" inches
Seat
Outside seam
42 inches
Tnseam
Waist
'-^2
inches
Small
:>4
inches
Calf
ID
Draw
line
iM-oni
inches: from
B and
out to
to
inches
is 4
Ki inches
knee
It inches
S.
is 21/2
13,
to
of
from
to
l-:
is
F.,
is
P>
D,
C.
From D
to
is
'j
seat:
(i
to
:!
II
is
.\,
is
I)
part as indicated.
THE BACKPART
Extend
T,
to
to
.5
from
is
is
to
T!!
lines A-S,
seat;
%. seat;
C,
is
to
from
Z-L,
Y
1.')
X-U and
14-7
from
7 to 8 is y, inch
to
is
the .same
from
."^i
inch;
draw
a line
from
(i
to
3.
to \',
and
Api)ly the small of knee measure plus 1 inch for seams from 12 to
which is 11 inches; apply the calf measure plus 1 inch for seams from 7 to 14 and from S to
10 which is IT) inches; shape the backpart as indicated.
DIAGRAM
159
273
2^4
DIAGRAM
160
GOLFING BREECHES
The measurements
are as follows
23^
inches
Seat
40 inches
Full length
42
inches
Knee
22 inches
Inseam
Waist
32
inches
13 inches
34
inches
Draw
line
From
inches; to
to
to S.
is
B and
C.
From D
from
to
as indicated-
THE BACKPART
Extend lines S-T. 3-E. L-Z, U-V and 7-9. Fniui R to 4 is jA waist; R to 5 is H seat;
from
draw a line from 4 through 5; 4 to is yi waist plus inch; draw a line from to
to F and 3 to 2 is the seat measure plus ?>j4 inches; from L to X is A seat; X to Y is y^
\' to B is the same
7 to 8 is y^ inch 9 to 10 is the same take out
is ^4 inch
inch U to
a Y from the back the same as between P and O on the forepart shape the backpart as indifi
;i
cated and
The
finisji.
cufif
on the bottom
is
::
DIAGRAM
160
27.-)
270
DIAGRAM
161
YEARS OF AGE
The Proportion Table comes as near the actual breast and waist sizes for children as it
does for grown people, but in cutting children's clothing it is always advisable to cut same
two sizes larger, as it is not good judgment to have children's clothing fit as closely as
men's garments. This coat, therefore, is increased two sizes.
The measurements
Breast
inches
26
inches
Waist
25
Seat
28>^ inches
12?^ inches
Waist length
Sleeve (taken from the center of the back to the elbow and the
full
length to the
21^
wrist
Around
wrist
inches
9^
From A
to
J4 breast;
is
halfway between
and E.
and B
is
waist length;
is
is
is 5
inches;
is full
length;
to
halfway between
inches;
to J
is
and
to 2
inch; from
to
breast on square division plus J4 inch square up and down from L this locates
to N is 1 inch square up from N to locate O.
halfway between 1 and L
;
From
A to
is
6^
is
inches; 8 to 9
is
draw
lyi inches;
a line
from
to 9
to 10
is
may
From Q
to S
between L and
is
;
waist; point
draw
a line
from
to
plus }i inch draw a line from
shoulder and armscye as shown.
;
T is halfway between Q
T through U up from A
;
from
to
is
and S; point
to 1] and L to
than 11 to
halfway
is
V is 16 breast
O shape the
;
inch draw a
is % breast plus
Square forwards from V by line T-U frotn V to
front edge
the
is
the
same;
shape
to
13
to J J to 12 is 1 inch; S
rounding line from
H
from 6 to
as
from
to
same
distance
through 12 and 13 down from S back to 14 is the
J
is
measure
shape
to
the
seat
20
15 is the same distance as from 13 to 14 from 19 to 3 and 15
is
breast
from
16 to 17
J^
the side seam. From 5 to 21 is the same distance as from 5 to 7
shape the front edge, bottom of forepart and finish.
;
THE COLLAR
From
to 23
is
inch
draw
24 to 25
is
through 23
yi inch; 25 to 26
is
from 23 to 24
3/[
is }^
12^^
DIAGRAM
161
277
278
DIAGRAM
162
YEARS
(Increased 2 sizes)
are as follows:
Breast
Waist
Hip
Waist length
SOJ^ inches
inches
28
Coat length
Ziyi inches
Sleeve length
27
inches
32J/ inches
145^ inches
Wrist
11
inches
From A
is
C,
to
34 breast;
is
halfway between
and E.
From C
to 2
i/^
is
and B
inch;
waist length;
is
is
to
halfway between
D is 5 inches; A to E is
A and F; square out
to 22 is ^^ the distance of
to 2
draw
length;
full
from G, B,
a line from
to 2
from 1 to L is V^i
is halfway
breast (on square division) plus J^ inch; square up and down from L;
between 1 and L; M to N is 1 inch; square up from N from N to P is A breast; N back to
4 is J4 inch from 22 to 7 is the same distance as from 1 to 4 draw a line from 4 to T
from A to 8 is 6}i inches; 8 to 9 is lyi inches; draw a line from A to 9.
and down
from
to
is
i^ breast
to
is
1^
inches
to J
is
)4 inch
From
to 10
is
DIAGRAM
ir,2
r,"-)
380
DIAGRAM
163
same as
10
YEARS
Breast
29 inches
Waist
27 inches
Seat
31
inches
From
is 5
to
inches;
J4 breast
is
From C
B
to 24
is
to 2
is
3/2
1,
inch
length;
is full
to 1
is
inch
same
to 22 is the
J4 breast;
(on square division) breast plus
Ij^ inches;
24 to
is
from 24 to L is /^
inch square up from K;
back to K is
square up from N from N to P is 1 inch
draw a line from 4 to 7.
as from B to N
halfway between
C. D and E.
is
to
and
is
draw
to
^-^
inch
is
l}i inches;
to 2
I
square up and
to
and
and 2 to 22
to J
is
inch;
down from L
is
halfway between
a line from
is
From A
is
Vb
to 8
breast;
]ilus }i inch.
Draw
a line
gorge.
From
13 by line
J to 12 is lyi inches;
R-S
bottom
of forepart
and
finish.
DIAGRAM
163
28.1
DIAGRAM
164
YEARS
16
32
inches
Waist
2d
inches
Seat
33-y4
inches
From A
full
length
from G, B,
to B is J4 breast B to
F is halfway between
1, C and D.
;
From C
to 2
is y'^
inch;
draw
to J
is
^4 inch
from, 21 to
and 18;
h'rom
breast
to
is
to 8
is
1 is 1 incli
and
a line
A
G
to
is
halfway between
is
from F through
inches; 21 to
down;
3^2
this
is
to
yi breast;
breast (on square division) plus y'z inch
is IJ/^
is ?^
inch
Gyg inches; 8 to
is
J/j
draw
inches;
a line
draw
from
1 1
is
ti
From
;i
to S
is
inches;
where the armhole crosses the breast line square down from 3 to locate 4 4
inches; 5 ti)
is 3Vj inches; draw lines fmni
thmugh 5 to 7 and from 3 through
is
l^/z
square up and
halfway between B
from A tu
A to 10 is
and shape the back; point
a line
to (J
is
'f.
to 5 is lyi
G to 15.
Yz waist; point
line
\'
from
(1
DIAGRAM
164
28;5
384
DIAGRAM
165
BOYS' SLEEVE
The
slee\'e
made
is
as follows:
by the armscye.
From A
from
to
to
is 1
is
armscye
;^ of the
inch;
to
is
is
to
from S
to
to
same
the
is
^2 inch
is
the
to
same from
;
is
inch;
D
F
to
to
is
is
the square at
plus
DIAGRAM
166
BOYS' TROUSERS
Boys' trousers are cut as follows:
(for
measurements
Boys
and Youths).
Draw
A-D and
line
square out to
I.
THE BACKPART
Extend
From N
to
is
2 to 3 is 134 inches;
pivoting at
N X
;
3/ inch
from
to \'
is
'/,
waist plus
inch
inch;
to
finish.
DIAGRAM
165
166
385
286
DIAGRAM
167
NORFOLK COAT
Of course
tliere is
no
may
be they must
how
This coat
to
made
be
as suggestions on
all
coats
shown here
produce same.
After the pattern
is
come up
to
is
cut out as
THE BACKPART
Point F
same; cut
is
tiie
halfwav between
]".
and
from E
now add
to
a
seam
I3/4
is
tn the
inches;
(i
to
is
the
The
forei)art is
and
1;
to
and from
yoke.
from
made
to
I
to
is
in the
same way.
jA inch;
add
seam
to
l'>om
is
to the
t<>
J is
inch;
is
halfway between
thmugh
as from
DIAGRAM
J (17
287
288
DIAGRAM
168
NORFOLK COAT
After the back and forepart are cut out proceed as follows: cut
back;
split
Now
desired.
it
1,
the pattern
down
as
line 1-2
from
Lay
and
Add
seam each
3,
to
of the
o\er
it
in
either
two or three
plaits or as
many
as
the piece that has been cut out off the backpart on the folded piece and cut
may
this
ofif
as
shown here
4.
THE FOREPART
Split the forepart as
and
from
it
adding seams as
to E,
on-
B and B
on the backpart
to
Now
cut
set
it
to
A now
;
in
is
in
DIAGRAM
168
289
sno
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS
tor^horl
^Iteamire^,
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS
FROM
NORMALS TO STOUTS
291
292
TABLE OF PROPORTIONS
FOR
293
haircloth for
all
shown on Diagram
Some tailors
A; cut in this way, it will give freely at the gorge, shoulder and armhole.
the wrong
this
is
B;
Diagram
as
shown on
consider the canvas on the bias when cut
and
shoulder
gorge,
the
around
straight
way, because if cut in this way it will be on the
at
give
will
not
and
stiffness
produce
a
armscye, and unless cut in at several places will
the shoulder and armscye as
it
should.
Sack Coats Before sewing up the side seams it is well t<> shrink in the back from about
four inches below the armscye to the shoulder so as to form a pocket for the blade bone,
pocket
also put in a piece of stay linen at the back of the armscye so as to keep the blade
the
waist.
slightly
at
backpart
the
stretch
coat,
may
you
If a close-fitting sack
in place.
at
the
stretched
not
be
must
backpart
the
overcoat
On a straight hanging sack coat or
do
not
but
shoulder,
and
gorge
the
slightly
at
it
In pressing the canvas, stretch
waist.
stretch the cloth because the fulling in of the back at the shoulder seam, also the fulling
in of
all
dip the stay tape in water and press before using it. When ba.sting stay tape on the front edge, hold it short n\ er the breast and work the front edge m,
the edge
so that the roundness of the breast is pressed into the middle of the front and
stout person, hold the stay tape short over the most prominent
rounding, which is over the waist. In all straight front coats, such as overcoats, doublebreasted sacks, or straight-front sacks, the front edges must be worked in until they are
becomes
For
straight.
straight.
In
sewing up the front seams always begin at the top, and, basting on
there
the upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves even for about 3 inches; from
from
and
bottom
the
from
inches
down, hold the upper sleeve a little short to about 3
basting
and
on
top,
begin
also
seam,
back
there down, hold them even. When sewing up the
on the upper sleeve, keep them both even to the elbow: over the roundness of the elbow hold
The Sleeves
seam
seam
of the sleeve
;
from there
on full the sleeve in until the front notch of the sleeve reaches the front notch of the armhole;
from there hold the sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that is drawn
in with the stay linen and full the undersleeve in over the back.
The Collar Collars are to be put in easy in the hollow of the gorge for normal or
A
concave shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder.
don't
stretch
the
case,
cither
In
stout person needs a shorter collar than a normal person.
persons.
slim
collar stand.
FROCKS
In basting the sidebody to the front
all
the
at the
armscye
way down.
THE SKIRT
of stay tape to
After the sideseam and fish are sewed and pressed open, baste a piece
after
.stretching,
from
it
the bottom, or the waist seam of the sidebody, so as to prevent
side
the
to
even
sidebody
and
which baste the skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt
front.
to
the
even
on
there
from
seam. From there on for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and
and keep both back and
In sewing the back to the sidebody, begin at the armscye
full the back in about Ya
sidebody even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down
on
to it, and then only just
inch don't stretch the sidebody until after the back is sewed
enough to make the backseam straight shrink in the sidebody halfway.
;
i'M
V
.X
295
THE PLAITS
The proper way to make plaits is to put a baste in
mark stitch and press the roundness of the skirt in until
open as
if it
were a seam.
it
is
y^
inch or a
the plait
is
it
l>ack.
shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in tlie sack coats.
In double-breasted frocks or dress coats a.l tlie seams are joined the same as the singlebreasted coats, except that the rever is held slightly short over the breast and the bell
The
little
VESTS
vests cut bv this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest.
the front edges are to be made straight with the stap tape, /. <., they
.\11
worked
until the
edge
is
the front.
The Shoulders The shoulders ought to bj stretched slightly and the back held
inches from
The Collar, if there be one, sh mid be held easy to about
over them.
;!
'i
full
the
Double-breasted vests, with or without c illar, or dress vests with low openings should
have stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking
away from
Double-breasted vests and double-breasted coats must have more breast worked
in
them
TROUSERS
backpart from the knee up and that but slightLet the notches come together
s|iil them.
Any
ly.
hold easy over the calf.
liackpart
tlie
knee
a
id
over
the
easy
forepart
hold
the
evenly
is
in the
sure to
the forepart be held easy over the backpart from the hip to the knee; waistbands
should be held a little .short over the forepart, easy in hollow of the waist and even from
shapthere back; the right fly should be held easy in the hollow of the crotch. Let all the
let
Do
not stretch.
296
INDEX
Page
INTRODUCTION
PREFACE
[[]
TREFACE TO THIRD EDITION
THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY
HOW TO MEASURE
HOW TO MEASURE, Continued
HOW TO MEASURE, Continued
HOW TO MEASURE, Continued
HOW TO MEASURE. Continued
HOW TO MEASURE, Continued
HOW TO MEASURE, Continued
FIRST LESSON FOR HRAFTINtJ A SACK
COAT
FIRST LESSON FOR DRAFTING A SACK
COAT. Continued
FIRST LESSON FOR DRAFTING A SACK
COAT. Continued
HOW TO
AI'I'LY
3
4
5
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
33
34
'.G
THE OVKRSHOULDBR
MEASURE
38
SO
LARGE BLADE
SACK COAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A
SMALL BLADE
TO CAUSE A SMALL FOLD AT THE BACK
OF THE ARM
TO INCREASE THE WIDTH OF THE
SHOULDER
SACK COAT FOR A SWAY-BACK FIGURE
TO CUT AN INCREASED SIZE COAT
HITHOUT DISTURBING THE BALANCE
FOUR-BUTTON STRAIGHT-HANGING SACK
BOX SAC K COAT
THREE-BUTTON STOUT MANS SACK
HOW TO POCKET A FAT JIAN'S COAT
THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT FOR A
CORPULENT FIGURE
DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT
DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT FOB A
SToiT FKiCRE
THREE-BUTTON SACK
FOR
FROCK COAT
THREE-BUTTON FROCK, Continued
TO PROCURE THE PROPER SEAMS ON
A FROCK COAT
HOH- TO CHANGE A FROCK COAT PATTERN FOR A LOW SHOULDER
FIGURE WITH A FLAT BLADE AND A
FULL CHEST
FIGURE WITH A LARGE BLADE AND A
FLAT CHEST
THREE-BUTTON FROCK
THREE-BUTTON SACK FOR AN ATHLETE
FROCK COAT FOR A LARGE BREAST,
SMALL WAIST AND SLIGHTLY SWAYBACK
FROCK COAT. Continued
THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOR STOUT FIGl BE
THREE-BUTTON FROCK FOB A CORPULENT FKiUBE
ENGLISH AVALKING FP JK WITH SACK
FRONT
SINGLE-BREASTF
STRAIGHT-FRONT
FROCK
SINGLE-BREAS- iD
STRAIGHT-FRONT
FROCK FOR A STOUT FIGURE
36
38
40
43
44
46
48
50
53
54
34
COAT
HUNCIi-BACK
^^
S3
58
60
63
4
Page
143
DOUBLE-BRE.VSTED I'.VLETOT
144
146
0> ERCO.\T
66
8
R.VtiL.V.N
JO
15AL.MAC A.%N
73
74
134
BAL.MAC.YAN SLEE\ E
74
76
78
T O
80
IN>ERNESS
SOUARE-SHOULDERED INVERNESS
SHOULDER CAPE
83
84
86
88
90
93
SHOULDER CAPE,
Continued
SPANISH CAPE
.MILITARY C.YPE
A HOOD
NAVAL OFFICER'S BLOUSE
COACH.MAN'S OR GROO.M'S FROCK UNDEBCO.YT
COACH.M.VN'S
136
138
140
148
l,-,0
ir,>
154
1
i(i
Ij8
160
163
163
164
'
MESH JACKET
CHAUFFEUR'S SACK
CHAUFFEUR'S OVBRCOAT
RIDING SACK
RIDING SACK. Continued
RIDING FROCK
COLLARS
SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR WAISTCOAT
SINGLE-BREASTED W.YISTCOAT WITH
NOTCH COLL.VR
WAISTCOAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A
LARGE BL.YDE
U.YISTCOAT FOR A FIGURE WITH A
FL.AT BLADE AND FULL CHEST
DOUBLE-BRE.4STED WAISTCOAT
H.VISTCOAT
CUT
WITH SEPARATE
REVER
TROUSERS
STOUT M-VN'S TROUSERS
PE<i-TOP TROUSERS
TROUSERS WITH L.VRGE LEGS
SPRlNti-BOTTOM TROISERS
lUtW TO .M.VMPULATE A PAIR OF TROUSERS FOR H.VCK HOW
BROAD AND N.VRROW FALLS
TROUSERS FOR BOW-LEGGED MEN
RIDING BREEHES
RIDINti BREECHES WITHOUT EXTENSIONS
CO.VCH.M.VN'S
168
173
174
176
178
180
182
184
186
188
190
193
194
196
200
303
%o*
goj
208
210
212
214
216
218
220
333
334
234
226
228
230
333
234
336
238
240
242
244
'346
348
'^50
*S3
254
56
258
260
260
262
364
266
268
370
272
274
BREECH ES
K.NICKEKBOCKERS
GOLFING BREECHES
198
FROCK OVERCOAT
Page
FOOT.MAN'S COATEE
STR.VIGHT
6
YE.VRS
NORFOLK
CO.VT. Continued
REMARKS ON COAT
REMARKS ON COAT
276
378
380
282
284
286
288
390
291
292
293
.M.VKING.
Continued 394
.MAKING, Continued
295
"-t
b.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
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