Conde Nast Traveller Middle East - March 2016

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CONTENTS
MARCH 2016
ON THE COVER
28 THE ART LOVERS BUCKET LIST
From Michelangelos David to
Chinas terracotta soldiers, art critic
and curator Girish Shahane picks
10 unmissable experiences
58 WORKS OF ART
Adding to their museum-worthy art
collections, hotels have upped the
ante with art experts on staff
PHOTO: MARTIN PRIHODA
90 MAXIMUM MUMBAI
Amit Gurbaxani lists 56 ways to
eat, shop and play in the citys
varied neighbourhoods, from posh
South Bombay to the young and
emerging western suburbs
90
Poolside at The
Oberoi, Mumbai
106 A CUT LOOSE

Antwerp is smashing up its diamonddealer image with a new collection
of edgy hangouts and designer digs,
says Hazel Lubbock
Dress, shoes; both

by Gucci. Earrings
by Fendi
MARCH 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 19
38
Restaurant Markthalle is
part of the regeneration
of Zurich West
CONTENTS
MARCH 2016
90
Mumbai eatery
Britannia &
Co. is run by
nonagenarian
owner Boman
Kohinoor (right)
44
Lazy Bear is one of

a growing number
of pop-ups gone
permanent
23 EDITORS LETTER
model Dita Von Teese; stylish

hotels in Ho Chi Minh City
24 CONTRIBUTORS
54 RHAPSODY IN A BOWL
Award-winning author Junot
Diaz on why you should travel
to Fukuoka, home of the
worlds best ramen
58 WHERE TO STAY
An exclusive rst look at
Canyon Ranch Wellness
Resort at Kaplankaya; bedhopping with dancer and
20 COND NAST TRAVELLER MARCH 2016
126 GET THE LOOK

How to pack for this months
destinations, from Antwerp
to Nepal
128 WHERE ARE YOU?
Enter our contest to win a
ZURICH
URUGUAY
NEPAL
COSTA RICA
W IN
three-night stay for two at

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
A LUX
STAY URY
IN
ABU DHA
BI
THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL
132 THE EXPERTS

Which citys architecture is
worth travelling for?
133 STOCKISTS
Where to shop
138 ROOM WITH A VIEW
Bahia Vik, Jos Ignacio, Uruguay
CORRECTION
In the January issue, Weligama Bay
Marriott Resort & Spa was described
as a Fibonacci-sequence-inspired ecoluxury hotel on Koggala Lake. This
description should in fact relate to Tri
Lanka. We apologise for the mix-up.
ART & TRAVEL

From Chicago to
Abu Simbel, the
art lovers bucket list
Discover
Antwerps new
designer digs
Hotels with
cultural cred
Dawn near the

Gateway of India
Maximum
MUMBAI
Where to eat, shop, stay and play
28
116 ON A ROLL
Costa Rica likes to keep things
a little more low-key, and with a
wave of design hotels its doing
just that, discovers Emma Love
Pack right for

this months
destinations
I SSN 2310- 3760
44 WORD OF MOUTH
Fashion designer Prabal
Gurungs insider tips for a trip to
Nepal, pop-up restaurants gone
permanent and our guide to
packing a hat. Plus, discover the
art museums opening this year
126
9 772310
376007
7723
3 10
0 3
76
6007
28 AGENDA
The Travel Connoisseur on rules
for navigating Paris during
Fashion Week; Zurich West is
attracting a cosmopolitan crowd
with its cutting-edge galleries
and avant-garde boutiques;
what in the world is happening
this month; actor Bill Nighy
on his favourite cafs and why
sunny destinations arent for him
72 TRAVEL IN STYLE
Actor and designer Waris
Ahluwalia travels to Mexico,
meeting the artisans who
fabricate his House of Waris
creations; stylish bucket bags
that t all your essentials; handdecorated watches to inspire
your next country escape;
communications specialist and
fashion blogger Anum Bashir on
how she packs for an arty escape
to Mumbai; a weekend bag for
urban nomads; architectural
jewellery with city inspirations;
grooming essentials for a boys
trip; beachwear designer Heidi
Gosman on creating a capsule
vacation wardrobe and her top
swimwear trends
MARCH 2016 | AED 25 | BHD 2.5

KWD 2 | OMR 2.5 | QAR 25
26 MASTHEAD
ON THE COVER
Photographed by
Martin Prihoda near the
Gateway of India in Mumbai
Model: Bridget McMahon at
Anima Creative Management
On Bridget: Skirt, top;
both by Chanel. Shoes by
Fendi. Earrings, bracelet;
both by Amrapali
FreakLab
1-Hour tourbillon. 7-Day power reserve.
Patented UlyChoc shock absorber and
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U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M
W W W. B I N H E N D I . CO M
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14/2/16 8:46 pm
EDITOR'S PHOTO: MARTIN PRIHODA; ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: RHEA SARAN,

This is our
promise to the
reader to be
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source of
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and must-have
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can trust Cond
Nast Traveller
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track, with
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From left: Pausing on Marine Drive in Mumbai;

the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes de La Habana
showcases Cuban art, from early pioneers to
modern masters working in mixed mediums
EDITORS
LETTER
rowing up, art galleries felt like

home to me. My stepfather is an
artist, and many an evening after
school was spent at exhibition
openings. When we werent raiding the trays
of canaps as they emerged from the pantry,
my brother, our friends and I would walk
around the gallery mimicking the adults,
with serious expressions and a glass of juice
in hand, pausing at each artwork as if it were
truly speaking to us. And in some cases, it
did. Needless to say the walls of our house
were fully adorned, and on the top oor was
an art studio with paintings, copper works,
drawings and tapestries stacked and strewn
everywhere you looked. Some mornings, Id
hear the strains of classical music on the radio
and knew that if I went upstairs, Id nd my
stepfather poised in front of the easel, careful
brushstrokes inspired from a place only he had
access to. It seemed almost magical.
Which explains, perhaps, why one of the
rst items on my agenda when I travel is to
nd a gallery, museum or other creative space
in which to immerse myself. The Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes de La Habana opened
up a world of Cuban art to me, artists I didnt
know before but now have prints of. The
Wynwood Art District in Miami was a fantastic
spectacle of street art with surprises lurking
around each corner. Last summer I spent hours
at an Audrey Hepburn photo exhibit tracing
Follow us:
@cntravellerme
her life through images some never displayed

before at the National Portrait Gallery
London. I once hopped a boat from a San
Francisco pier to check out @Large: Ai Weiwei
on Alcatraz. And any time Im in New York, I
return to one of my favourite haunts when I
lived there: the Met. Walking up those steps, it
feels like Im home. If there isnt a temporary
exhibit Im itching to see, I simply wander
through the galleries of Egyptian art.
Still, theres nothing quite like seeing
artefacts in situ. Egypt, when I visited some
years ago, made for an awe-inspiring trip.
All that history right in front of me, from the
pyramids of Giza to the royal tombs in Luxor
and the temples of Abu Simbel the last of
which graces art critic Girish Shahanes list of
10 experiences art lovers should travel for
(p 28). Its not all ancient sites: Anish Kapoors
Cloud Gate in Chicago is one of the modern
marvels on the list (and one Ive checked off).
Also on Shahanes radar are the volcanic
basaltic rock caves of Ellora, a few hours
drive out of Mumbai. Its a great side trip
when youre visiting Indias buzzy nancial
and entertainment capital. Mumbai itself has
art and design on display, with a mash-up
of architectural styles including Victorian,
Gothic, Art Deco, Hindu temple and Islamic
inuences. The city is, in fact, home to one
of the largest concentrations of Art Deco
buildings in the world. Much of this can be
explored on heritage walks through the city
though theres plenty else to do in Maximum
City. From cutting-edge restaurants to live
music gigs, cool concept stores to unusual
cocktail dens, Mumbai is chaotic and crowded
but never, ever boring (p 90).
From top: The boat to Alcatraz,

where last year Chinese artist
Ai Weiwei staged an exhibition
exploring freedom of expression
and human rights; old magazine
covers were the nale of the Audrey
Hepburn photo exhibit in London
RHEA SARAN Editor in Chief
Cond Nast Traveller Middle East
@CNT_MiddleEast
CONTRIBUTORS
Martin Prihoda
Marcelo Pedrozo
Canadian-born fashion and

advertising photographer
Prihoda has worked with global
titles and brands including
Vogue, GQ, Wired, Nike and
Adidas. When not shooting he
spends his time with his wife
and kids, practising yoga and
kiteboarding.
BASED IN: Goa
PHOTOGRAPHED: Maximum
Mumbai, p 90
WHAT WAS YOUR MUMBAI
HIGHLIGHT?
We met the incredible fellow
who runs the Britannia & Co.
caf and his brother, and they
were like a nostalgic throwback
to a bygone era in Indias
history. They were full of
smiles and fun and kept
asking us to deliver messages
to Her Majesty in London,
which I will be sure to do.
MY DREAM HOTEL
WOULD INCLUDE
A series of cosy huts built high
in the treetops of an old-growth
forest, like the Ewoks in Return
Of The Jedi. There would be a
perch from which to watch the
sunset, and bridges and ladders
connecting the rooms. Each
room would be luxurious, with
no TVs, no Wi-Fi and no mobile
phone signal. Id call it Ofine in
the Woods.
Buenos Aires-born Pedrozo has

spent eight years as a make-up
artist and hair stylist, working
with international titles including
Schn! Magazine (London),
Lash Magazine (Paris), Elle
(Argentina) as well as with
Indian celebrities and brands.
BASED IN: Mumbai
HAIR & MAKE-UP FOR:
Maximum Mumbai, p 90
WHAT DID YOU DISCOVER
ON THE MUMBAI SHOOT?
I had the opportunity to visit
places I hadnt experienced
before and to explore the
local food scene, like Parsi
and Iranian cuisine at Britannia
& Co. For shopping, Le Mill in
Colaba is the place for designs
from Indian and international
brands, but what I loved most
was the minimalist architecture
of the store. These experiences
made me fall in love with
Mumbai once again.
MY DREAM HOTEL
WOULD INCLUDE
A high-quality beauty spa
with exclusive hair and face
treatments, so you can enjoy
your holiday but always look
amazing. As a hair and
make-up artist, Ive faced
issues with lighting in rooms,
so at my place they would
be bright. A vanity room with
a proper mirror and chair
would be a dream.
Antara Motiwala
Previously fashion editor at
GQ India for seven years,
freelance fashion and celebrity
stylist Motiwala now dresses
young Bollywood and does
projects for titles like
Vogue India, Harpers
Bazaar India, Robb Report
and LUomo Vogue.
BASED IN: Mumbai
STYLED: Maximum
Mumbai, p 90
THE MOST FUN PART OF
THE MUMBAI SHOOT WAS
Playing cricket with the kids.
They were so enthusiastic and
happy that we chose them to
take part in the photoshoot that
they left their serious game and
were play-acting with our model
for the photos. Their warmth
and exuberance and awe of
what we were doing totally
made my day.
MY DREAM HOTEL
WOULD INCLUDE
A heated pool and outdoor
showers, and it would be located
either on a beach or in the jungle
in South Africa. It would be very
open, with lots of natural light,
and great staff because thats
what makes a place. I dont mind
if its small and boutique-y as
long as it gives you that feeling
of being transported.
Amit Gurbaxani
Co-founder and editor of The
Daily Pao, a Mumbai-based
web magazine that covers the
citys food and culture scenes,
Gurbaxanis work has also
appeared in publications such as
Time Out and The Guardian.
BASED IN: Mumbai
WROTE: Maximum
Mumbai, p 90
THE BEST PART OF
COMPILING THE MUMBAI
GUIDE WAS
Getting the opportunity to be a
tourist in my own city. The most
amusing part of working on this
piece was walking into all these
womens fashion boutiques and
asking questions that made it
obvious I was in alien territory.
MY DREAM HOTEL
WOULD INCLUDE
To me, the best hotels are those
that reect the character of the
place in which they are located,
in terms of the materials they
use or through careful details.
Because music is a big part
of my holidays, my ideal hotel
would include a pre-loaded mp3
player in every room with songs
about where its based.
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Anish Kapoors Cloud
Gate in Chicago
THE ART
LOVERS
BUCKET LIST
From Michelangelos David to Chinas

terracotta soldiers, art critic and curator GIRISH
SHAHANE picks 10 unmissable experiences
irst things rst: these are not the 10 greatest artworks in the
world, because artworks cannot be compared as easily as
mobile phones or refrigerators. But they are all sublime and
worth travelling long distances to view. Choosing only one entry
per nation, I have favoured artefacts created for particular sites and
pieces that provide insight into a civilisation. For seven of the entries,
we have little idea of the names of their creators. Some of the worlds
greatest art was conceived by renowned geniuses like Michelangelo,
but much of it was crafted by people who are anonymous today and
were probably not celebrated when alive.
PHOTOS: CORBIS, GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY
USA
Cloud Gate, Millennium Park, Chicago
Popularly called The Bean, much to the distress of its creator, Anish
Kapoor, Cloud Gate marries artistic vision and engineering skill. The
99,790kg mass of polished stainless steel, inspired by a drop of
mercury, retains a sense of uidity despite its weight. Many thought it
was impossible to achieve a perfectly seamless surface in a piece like
this, but Kapoors team managed the feat, albeit two years late and
a few million dollars over budget. Standing at the edge of Millennium
Park, it is already one of the most popular public sculptures in the
world, and the most successful yet created in the new millennium. Its
title refers to the sky reected in the steel, but equally fascinating is a
fun-house version of Chicagos many famous high-rises. Walk under
the sculpture, and you stand beneath an indentation into which your
reected image is sucked, as into a whirlpool. Its the perfect artwork
for the age of the sele, but also profound in the way it becomes a
part of the city.
FRANCE
Monets Waterlilies at the Muse De LOrangerie, Paris
Impressionist master Claude Monet made around 250 paintings
of the lily ponds in the garden of his Giverny home, capturing how
light fell on them at different times and in different seasons. He
donated eight of the paintings to the French State, specifying how
they were to be exhibited. They occupy two oval rooms into which
natural light pours, and serve as a spot to recover from the artefact
overload of the nearby Louvre. Up close, the immersive canvases
are almost abstract, and cohere into half-recognisable shapes
at a distance. Time shifts from dawn to dusk. Our notions of up
and down, shallowness and depth are all unbalanced and yet the
experience of walking around the rooms, or sitting on a couch and
staring at his work, is profoundly soothing.
PAKISTAN
Fasting Buddha at the Lahore Museum
Before he settled on the Middle Path, Prince Siddhartha experimented with
extremes, including starving himself (though he found this only made him
more obsessed with food). At the peak of his ascetic phase, he was skin
and bones, and that is how he is depicted in a number of sculptures made
in the Gandhara region, whose major cities were Purushapura (modern-day
Peshawar) and Takshashila (Taxila, near Rawalpindi). The greatest of the
Gandharan Fasting Buddhas, a nely sculpted block of schist with haunting
hollow eyes, carved in the 2nd century AD and excavated in the late 19th,
has sat in the Lahore Museum since the institution moved to its present
site on the Mall in 1894.
ART LOVERS BUCKET LIST

PERU
Nazca Lines, southern Peru
Contrary to popular belief, the Nazca Lines have nothing to do with aliens and spaceships. What
they do have to do with is rather less clear. A menagerie of jaguars, monkeys and other animals,
along with a few humans, was crafted over 1,500 years ago, by a civilisation that has since died
out. The Nazca people left few clues about the purpose of the gures, the largest of which is
some 285m across. The Nazca Desert is almost windless, which means pebbles cover its surface
instead of ne sand. Moving the gravel reveals earth of a slightly different shade of red to the
pebbles. The gures were created simply by making small trenches, and the dry, windless air
has ensured their survival through the centuries. Just as the Great Wall of China is said to be
visible from space (it isnt), the Nazca Lines are said to be only discernible when ying above
the formations, while actually, they can be seen from the surrounding hills.
IRAN
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque,
Naqsh-e Jahan Square, Isfahan
Iran is the cultural heart of West Asia,
Isfahan is Irans most beautiful city
and Naqsh-e Jahan Square is Isfahans
dening location. The gorgeous square,
built in the 17th century, at the peak of
the Safavid dynastys power, is anked
by mosques, mansions and a handicrafts
market. Even in the richness of its
surroundings, the inside of the Lotfollah
mosque appears a jewel of surpassing
preciousness. The well-decorated
entrance is a bit dark, which enhances
the brilliance of the central chambers
intricately patterned glazed tiles. A motif
of blue lozenges bordered by thick gold
bands begins at the domes base and
rises toward a sunburst at the centre.
The forms get smaller as they converge,
but the lozenges and borders shrink
at different rates, till there is more gold
than blue, and the gure and ground ip
from gold-on-blue to blue-on-gold. This
dynamises the entire interior, making it
shimmer and pulse. If you want to get
high on colour and pattern, there is no
better place in the world than here.

ITALY
Michelangelos David,
The Galleria DellAccademia,
Florence
It became symbolic of a city-states
independence when its creator was
not yet 30. It stood in a major square
of Florence for nearly 400 years before
being moved to a museum. It has
been celebrated without pause since
being unveiled in 1504. We approach
Michelangelos David from a distance,
seeing the body straight on and the face
in prole. He has a perfect body, powerful
but not over-muscular, and a strong, calm
face. But as we see the face more fully,
his equanimity gives way to unrest and
anger; he seems close to losing control.
This is a killer, the man who slayed the
giant Goliath. Sculptures great merit is
that it occupies three dimensions, but
David is unique in becoming a rounded
character in the course of our viewing.
EGYPT
Statues of Ramesses II at Abu Simbel
One of Egypts most powerful pharaohs,
Ramesses II built two grand temples in the
13th century BC. Four huge statues of the
ruler fronted the larger temple, perhaps
meant as a warning to Nubian raiders who
might sweep in from Sudan: Think again,
you are entering a land of giants. Since the
sculptors aim was to create an idealised
depiction of the monarch, the faces bore
little resemblance to the visage of Ramesses
II that tourists can stare at within Cairos
Egyptian Museum. A century after the
temples were discovered, they faced the
threat of inundation from Lake Nasser. The
entire complex was lifted and reassembled
beside an articial hill a feat comparable to
those of the pharaohs themselves.
CHILE
Easter Island Statues
Perhaps all paradises eventually
become hells, but nowhere does
this happen quicker than on
small islands. It took less than a
millennium for Easter Island, or
Rapa Nui, to be settled, to ourish
and to decay. The island almost
denes the phrase the middle of
nowhere: the nearest inhabited
area is over 2,000km of water
away. But people sailed here,
settled, bred and began dying
out. At some point, probably
between 1250 and 1500 AD, they
made 887 massive stone gures,
some almost 10m high, that dot
the coastline and face inland.
These have disproportionately
large heads and a heavy-browed
countenance that seems angry
or mournful. There are several
theories about why a small
community made such efforts to
carve these monoliths, but nobody
knows for sure what these statues
mean, which adds immeasurably
to their allure. Who doesnt want
to travel to an impossibly distant
place and confront impossibly
mysterious artefacts?
INDIA
Kailasa Temple, Ellora
In Gullivers Travels, Jonathan
Swift wrote about the Academy
of Lagado, where an architect was
attempting to build houses by
beginning at the roof and working
downwards. If only the architect
had known that such a building
has existed in India since the 8th
century. Among a collection of
temples and monasteries dug into
the hard basalt of the Deccan, and
lled with a wondrous variety of
statuary, the Kailasa temple stands
out for being carved from a single
enormous rock. Craftsmen employed
by the Rashtrakutas went at the
rock with chisels for years, maybe
decades, gradually rening the
structure and working in every detail
one might expect in a conventional
Shiva temple. The entire structure is
supposed to mirror Shivas mountain
abode, and its a labour of devotion
like no other.
ART IN THE CITY

Dubai Art Week is an annual
celebration of design, culture and the
arts, bringing creatives together each
March. Here are this years highlights
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON
CHINA
Terracotta Warriors, Shaanxi
While digging a well in 1974, Chinese farmers unearthed an unmatched trove of terracotta
artefacts. Since then, thousands of gures have been excavated, restored and lined up in
pits for tourists to view. The gures of soldiers, courtiers, horses and bronze chariots
are of varying dimensions, but more or less life-sized. They represent the army of Qin Shi
Huang, who ruled from 246 to 210 BC, and adopted the title of emperor 10 years before his
death, having conquered all the Warring States and unied the entirety of China. The rst
emperor was obsessed with nding a potion of immortality. He failed, but took an ersatz
army into the afterlife. Each soldier was individually crafted, painted and provided with
a weapon. The weapons have worn away, the paint has aked off, but what remains still
makes for an awesome sight.
ART DUBAI
The 10th edition of this international
art fair will host a diverse line-up of
90 galleries from the UAE and around
the world, across three programmes:
Contemporary, Modern and Marker,
the last of which will focus on the
Philippines, with Manila-based artist,
curator and researcher Ringo Bunoan
highlighting the Asian capitals dynamic,
independent art scene.
March 16-19; artdubai.ae
DESIGN DAYS DUBAI
Dedicated to collectible and limitededition furniture and design objects, the
fair will present purchasable works from
established and emerging galleries and
talent from around the globe at The
Venue in Downtown Dubai, alongside a
public programme of talks, workshops
and guided tours.
March 14-18; designdaysdubai.ae
SIKKA ART FAIR
Providing a platform for the regions
emerging artists, the sixth edition of
the fair includes commissioned works
covering visual and performing arts,
music and lm. Visitors can enjoy
outdoor lm screenings, live music,
cultural walks, artist-led talks and
workshops and exhibitions.
March 14-24; artweek.ae
GLOBAL ART FORUM
Presented by the Dubai Culture and
Arts Authority and supported by
Dubai Design District, the 10th edition
of the forum is titled The Future Was
and will explore how artists, writers,
musicians, historians, curators and
strategists are shaping the future.
March 16-19; artdubai.ae/
global-art-forum
RCA SECRET DUBAI
An exhibition and sale of original,
postcard-sized artworks by regional
and internationally acclaimed artists
and designers, as well as graduates
from the Royal College of Art, each
piece is signed on the back so buyers
wont know the identity of the artist
until theyve made the purchase. Held
at Madinat Jumeirah, participating
artists last year included Zaha Hadid,
David Bailey and Sir Paul Smith.
March 16-19; dubai.secret.rca.ac.uk
OPINION
The Travel
Connoisseur
On navigating Paris during Fashion Week
ILLUSTRATION: GRANT COWAN/EYECANDYILLUSTRATION.COM
he start of the year is hectic for The

Travel Connoisseur: everyone whos
anyone is either at the heart of the
Swiss Alps for an economic pow-wow
or inhabiting the golden triangle in the French
capital for the mens collections presentations
or, in TTCs case, both. After years of endless
sessions in the snowy mountains, he decided to
sharpen his focus, giving his full attention to the
important things. Paris it was.
Not that Paris is a cakewalk during its
most fashionable season. And so, over time
and through a series of trials and errors, TTC
developed a set of rules which allow him
and any other visitors to navigate the city
at this glamorous time.
1. Pack smart, knowing youll have to change
up to three times a day. Accessorise: these are
the details that set you apart from the rest of
the perfectly dressed pack, and wont take up
volumes in your luggage.
2. Have a limousine follow you, day and
night. This is more essential than your hotel
room during Fashion Week, so invest. It must
come equipped with a battery pack or fail-safe
mobile charger and high-speed Wi-Fi. This
year, for instance, TTCs minders arranged a
glossy black minivan, which doubled as a hotel
suite and a dressing room on wheels.
3. Pre-arrange for an iron and ironing
board to be in your room upon arrival.
Hotel laundry services are overloaded with
requests and do not deliver on time during
Fashion Week. TTC learnt this the hard way.
Three years earlier, he made the mistake of
sending his entire wardrobe to be laundered
upon arrival (having been on the road). The
following morning, he was spotted running up
and down the hallways of a palace hotel, wearing
just a bathrobe and slippers, in absolute panic,
as he searched for at least one piece of clothing
a mere two hours before a couture dl.
4. Dont turn up your nose at boutique
hotels when the palaces are full. Just
moments from Pigalle is a small hotel that
boasts a handful of rooms decorated with
vintage nds or by artists, among them Pierre
Le-Tan and Monsieur Andr. For a more
theatrical experience, check in to a boutique
establishment on Rue du Poitou, where each
room is imagined by Christian Lacroix.
Have a limousine follow

you, day and night. It must
come equipped with a mobile
charger and high-speed Wi-Fi
5. Tip hotel personnel generously and
as soon as you arrive: this ensures you central
tables reserved at all times. Have lunches
that are as light as they are fashionable. On
Avenue Victor Hugo lies an Art Deco caf
where Christian Dior enjoyed eggs while
then-employee Yves Saint Laurent favoured
the caviar. The two fashion geniuses created an
iconic dish called Oeuf Christian Dior, which
continues to fascinate new generations of
gourmands and is an acceptable lunch choice.
6. Avoid spa treatments they will make
you look sleepy and ruin your hair. Instead,
walk from Avenue Montaigne to Rue Cambon
and back. An hours power walk, at 7.2kmph,
will leave you looking sculpted and energised.
7. Given the hectic schedule and possible
jet lag, cap daily bubbly intake at ve utes:
one in the morning bathtub, one at breakfast,
zero at lunch and two at dinner. Reserve the
fth for any incidental meetings.
8. After the last late shows, let loose at

Chez Castel, the legendary Saint-Germaindes-Prs nightspot which has been visited by a
great many night owls over the years: Franoise
Sagan, Serge Gainsbourg, Mick Jagger, Andy
Warhol and Salvador Dal to name a few. But
as you dance away in the red and black rooms,
keep an eye on the clock: morning dls start
as early as 10am. Alternatively, do something
totally different. This year, TTC escaped to the
Royal Chapel of Versailles. Once the last visitors
had left the palace, those in the know immersed
themselves in a requiem for Louis XVI and
Marie Antoinette, performed at the spiritual
heart of the magnicent landmark.
9. If you find yourself with time to spare,
head to the Palais Galliera, which brings the
history of fashion to life. Period costumes,
exceptional photographs, grandiose creations
and accessories make up the treasures of this
fashion museum, owned by the city of Paris.
Take time to admire its architecture, too its
monumental windows are decorated with
sculptures representing the three primary arts:
painting by Henri Chapu, architecture by Jules
Thomas and sculpture by Pierre Cavelier.
And the perfectly coiffed man studying that
pillar to your right? You can thank him later.
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035232 - CNT-ME-FEB16.indd 1
23/02/2016 15:16
Zurich's Old Town sits on

either side of the Limmat
River. Right: Al fresco dining
at Restaurant Markthalle
SHAKE IT UP
Z
Beyond Zurichs winding
cobblestone lanes and
charming medieval
Old Town lies a modern
metropolis where old
factories are morphing
into cutting-edge
galleries and avant-garde
boutiques have set up
shop beneath railway
arches, discovers
JENNY JOHNSON
urichs natural beauty two

rivers, a lake and forested hills
backed by the snow-capped
Alps is deservedly renowned,
but its the citys edgy, former
industrial quarter Zurich West (nicknamed
the Williamsburg of Switzerland) thats
attracting a new cosmopolitan crowd.
Situated between the Limmat River and
the railroad tracks, the once run-down area,
also known as Kreis 5, is being revitalised,
with empty warehouses being reclaimed and
converted into art studios, trendy bars and
small theatres. A former ship-building factory,
Schiffbau put Zurich West on the map when
it was turned into a creative hub featuring
a glass-cubed rooftop lounge, Nietturm
Bar (drinks from AED 27; 0041-44-258 7077,
nietturm.ch), jazz club Moods (concerts from AED
55; 0041-44-276 8000, moods.ch), ne-dining
La Salle (entres from AED 70; 0041-44-258
Conceptual art at
the Migros Museum
in a former brewery
SHORT BREAK
PHOTOS: ALAMY, STELLA GIGER, NELLY RODRIGUEZ
Boutiques are tucked under

the railway arches at Im
Viadukt. Right: Vintage
wares at Caritas Zurich
7071, lasalle-restaurant.ch) and a theatre with

three stages, where over 400 performances
are put on each year. Art lovers gather at
Lwenbru-Areal, a converted brewery thats
now home to contemporary art museum
Kunsthalle Zurich (entry, AED 43; 0041-44272 1515, kunsthallezurich.ch) and the Migros
Museum (entry, AED 43; 0041-44-277 2050,
migrosmuseum.ch) for conceptual art.
Visitors have traditionally ocked to
Zurichs main shopping street Bahnhofstrasse
in the Old Town for its fancy watch shops
and agship designer stores. These days, the
young and the hip get their retail therapy at
Im Viadukt (im-viadukt.ch) a 5,400sqft row
of eclectic boutiques tucked under retrotted railway arches dating back to 1894,
stocking the citys most in-demand new
designers. Dont miss erfolg for sustainable
Swiss knitwear made from organic cotton and
merino wool; BIG Mode Werk Statt, which
gives emerging talents an opportunity to
showcase their work; and Caritas Zurich for
vintage and pre-loved jewellery, childrens
clothes and furniture, the prots of which go
to a charity that helps the impoverished. Im
Viadukt also houses Zurichs rst permanent
covered market, Markthalle, where farmers
and gourmet food vendors showcase artisan
breads, seasonal vegetables, ne grape and
fresh owers. Sample farmhouse cheeses from
a selection of over 1,500 at The British Cheese
A modern, upcycled
city garden made from
old train container
cars and overhung
with fairy lights is
one of Kreis 5s
coolest hang-outs
Shop for oneoff bags and

accessories
at Freitag
Centre; organic Italian antipasti at Saltinbocca;

or pull up a seat at Restaurant Markthalle
for local cuisine prepared with fresh market
ingredients alongside live music.
Just down the street you cant miss the
Freitag (bags from AED 315; 0041-43-210 3348,
freitag.ch) agship store, a towering 85ft stack of
recycled shipping containers, where the Freitag
brothers sell their utilitarian unisex bags and
accessories made from old truck tarpaulins, car
seat belts and used bicycle inner tubes. No two
designs are the same; one is even on display at
New Yorks Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).
If youre feeling energetic, climb up the rickety
steps to the rooftop for views over the city and
Frau Gerolds Garten (fraugerold.ch), a modern,
upcycled city garden located below. Made from
old train container cars and overhung with fairy
lights, Mrs Gerolds Garden is one of Kreis
5s coolest hang-outs, with an open-air bar and
SHORT BREAK
City garden hang-out Frau
Gerolds Garten. Right: The
Dolder Grands art collection
includes a 36ft Andy Warhol
Bartenders mix
inventive drinks at
Hotel Rivington & Sons
cushion-strewn terrace beside the screeching

railway tracks, a locavore restaurant with a daily
changing, seasonal menu using ingredients
grown on-site (in winter order fondue in a
wooden pavilion) and a handful of independent
fashion stores and art galleries.
For the best views in town, take the lift
up to the 36th oor of Prime Tower one of
Switzerlands tallest buildings, built on the
grounds of a former cogwheel factory where
a sophisticated clientele mingles at Clouds
(entres from AED 130; 0041-44-404 3000,
clouds.ch), a restaurant and lounge with oorto-ceiling windows overlooking Lake Zurich
and the Swiss Alps. On the ground oor, creative
types congregate at speakeasy-style bar Hotel
Rivington & Sons (drinks from AED 60; 0041-43366 9082, hotelrivingtonandsons.ch), serving wellmixed drinks alongside Thirties, Forties and
Fifties dcor shipped in from New York. Around
the corner, a colourful display of hanging
umbrellas marks the entrance to underground
electronic club Hive (drinks from AED 25;
0041-44-271 1210, hiveclub.ch), a cavernous
spot which attracts big-name international
DJs and wouldnt be out of place in Berlin or
Barcelona. Its a far cry from the conservative,
strait-laced image many people have of Zurich,
a city of many contrasts.
Getting there
Swiss (swiss.com) ies direct from Dubai
to Zurich. On intercontinental ights
originating in Switzerland, passengers
can enjoy food from Zurichs popular
Hiltl, a vegetarian restaurant dating back
to 1898, as well as Swiss cheeses and
Sprngli chocolates. In Business Class,
passengers can sample local specialities
from renowned chefs, while First Class
passengers also receive a Bally amenity
kit stocked with La Prairie products.
WHERE TO STAY
With an AED 1.6 billion renovation by British architects Foster & Partners,
adding two new wings to the landmark Belle poque building, grande dame
The Dolder Grand adopts Zurichs traditional-meets-modern reinvention
10-minute drive from the city
brings you to The Dolder Grand,
perched like a fairy-tale castle
atop the Zrichberg hill and surrounded
by forest with a birds eye view of Lake
Zurich, downtown and the Swiss Alps. The
listed Main Building, dating back to 1899,
has been preserved in all its glory with its
romantic turrets, but the recent facelift
saw two wings added on either side, with
sweeping, curved glass faades covered
in an abstract forest pattern simulating
the gently rolling hills of the surrounding
landscape. As the names suggest,
the Spa Wing houses an acclaimed
43,000sqft wellness area and the Golf
Wing overlooks the nine-hole course. The
176 rooms and suites are kitted out with
high-tech facilities like Bang & Olufsen
at-screen TVs, an integrated console

to control the lights, music and curtains
and a powerful eight-head shower.
Inventive interpretations of traditional
Swiss dishes are on the two-Michelinstarred menu at The Restaurant, helmed
by young chef Heiko Nieder. Try the
deer from Ennetbrgen with chocolate,
Brussels sprouts and pears. Even more
impressive is the hotels collection of over
100 paintings and sculptures including an
original 36ft Andy Warhol above the front
desk, two works by Salvador Dali and
modern pieces by Damien Hirst, Takashi
Murakami and Zaha Hadid. Borrow an
art iPad from reception for a guided
tour around the displays.
Doubles from AED 2,660; 0041-44-456
6000; thedoldergrand.com
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CALENDAR
MARCH
Celebrated across India, Holi

is a colourful and playful
annual festival
What in the world is happening this month
WHERE Dubai
Indulge at Taste of Dubai with live cooking
demos and classes by Michelin-starred chefs
Tom Aikens, Atul Kochhar, Alfred Prasad and
Nathan Outlaw, plus a pop-up restaurant,
tasting menus from top eateries including
Catch and Bistro Des Arts and live music by
disco legends Boney M.
HOW Book a VIP ticket for fast-track entry,
access to a lounge, two drinks at a private
bar, three dishes from any restaurant and
entry into a culinary prize draw.
AED 260; tasteofdubaifestival.com
12-May 30
WHERE San Francisco

Celebrating one of the fashion worlds most
inuential designers, Oscar de la Renta:
The Retrospective at de Young Museum
(deyoung.famsf.org) showcases more than
130 pieces produced over ve decades and
organised into themes including Spanish,
Eastern, Russian and garden inuences,
curated by former Vogue editor-at-large
Andr Leon Talley.
HOW The Golden Gate Park, where the
museum is located, has gardens, lakes
and wildlife worth exploring. Dont miss
the Conservatory of Flowers, the vintage

carousel, the aquarium and the herd of bison
at the Buffalo Paddock.
goldengatepark.com
13-27
WHERE Osaka
Watch sumo wrestlers go head to head in
a dramatic and tense match, preceded by
an elaborate ceremonial ritual of singing,
salt-tossing and foot stomping, at the Grand
Sumo Tournament (sumo.or.jp).
HOW Emirates (emirates.com) and Qatar
Airways (qatarairways.com) y direct to
Osaka. Etihad (etihad.com) ies direct to
Hong Kong from where Cathay Pacic
(cathaypacific.com) ies to Osaka.
23-24
WHERE Delhi
The Indian festival of colours, Holi, sees the
countrys streets and citizens awash
in rainbow hues as revellers celebrate the
arrival of spring. Festivities are spread across
the subcontinent, with small-town parties
often more manageable.
HOW On The Gos Holi, Festival of
Colour tour takes guests to the semi-arid
Shekhawati region, situated between Delhi,
Jaipur and Bikaner, where they can join in

the celebrations with white kurta pyjamas
and organic colours provided. The eight-day
tour also takes in the sights of Delhi, Jaipur
and the Taj Mahal in Agra.
AED 5,470; onthegotours.com
24-28
WHERE Byron Bay

The Byron Bay Bluesfest takes place
over seven stages with 200 performers,
including Kendrick Lamar, The National,
Noel Gallaghers High Flying Birds and Tom
Jones. Market stalls sell clothing, jewellery
and locally made wares, and campsites are
available with tent motels and luxury tipis.
HOW Escape the crowds at the Bluesfest
VIP Lounge, where you can relax on comfy
sofas, chill out in a secluded garden area and
enjoy premium beverages.
Tickets from AED 415; VIP Lounge, AED 235;
0061-2-6685 8310, bluesfest.com.au
BOOK NOW FOR...

APRIL 22-MAY 1 New Orleans
Jazz & Heritage Festival
nojazzfest.com
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON, DIVYA JETHWANI; PHOTO: ALAMY
10-12
SLUG
Q&A
AROUND THE WORLD WITH...
Bill Nighy
The Love Actually and The Second Best Exotic
Marigold Hotel star on being happier in
a corner caf than an exotic location
Where have you felt
happiest?
The rst time I went to New
York it was Christmas and I
arrived at night and it really
was like being in the movies.
I was put up at the Waldorf,
in the only smoking room
left in America, in the days
when I would smoke cigars.
There arent many times
when you feel uncomplicatedly
ly
happy, like nothings-wrong
happy, but I did.
Fateh Sagar Lake

in Udaipur, India
Which is your favourite city?

London is a great city I love
it more and more. There are
so many districts and so much
h
variety. I love it mostly at night;
t; I particularly
love it by the river. I dont mind the rain
that just helps. Weather is probably one of
my greatest enthusiasms.
INTERVIEW: FRANCESCA BABB; PHOTOS: ALAMY, CORBIS
Describe your favourite view.

If you sit on the rst-oor balcony of The
Lalit hotel in Udaipur and look out over the
lake to the mountains, with your book and
your music, that is a very good situation
to be in. I did a lot of that when we were
lming The Second Best Exotic Marigold
Hotel. I spent long, uncomplicated days in
which the only struggle was what to have
for breakfast, which book to read, which
playlist to put on. It was just dreamy.
Tell us about a great little place you know.
Berkeley Square in London. Im crazy
about plane trees, and not only in London; in
Melbourne, too, which is a city I enjoyed very
much. I like those secret patches of green
you nd in cities. I love Paris for that reason.
Battersea Park in London is a wonderful
spot, in the evening particularly, and Albert
Bridge is very beautiful. I love being under
a bridge with a cup of coffee.
Sightseeing or sun lounger?
When I go to hot places, where its the
same every time you open the curtains, I
get kind of uneasy. As an Anglo-sort-of-Irish
person, the heat doesnt suit me. I really
dont understand people who travel long
Le Citizen, depending on whos paying. I

once stayed a couple of nights in the Coco
Chanel Suite at the Ritz Paris. My daughter
came, she was about 14, and she screamed
as she walked in. There were lots of things
you didnt know you liked until you got
there: shuttered windows, huge soft sofas,
electric chandeliers and a large bath with
gold eagles on the taps. The bed was like
Wembley Stadium and I also took a great
fancy to the smoked mirrors because
everyone looks good in them.
The Coco Chanel
Suite at the Ritz Paris
I like those secret patches

of green you find in cities.
I love Paris for that reason
distances to the sun. I dont see which part
of it is pleasurable. It hurts when it hits your
skin, you then have to apply unguents, which
make you uncomfortable, and you might go
the colour of embarrassment. Theyre usually
quite unremarkable places except that
theyve got sunshine. I dont get it.
Which is the smartest hotel youve
ever stayed in?
I get institutionalised in places very quickly
I want to stay in the same hotel, preferably
in the same room, and sit in the same chair
I sat in before, reading The New York Times.
I stay in The Carlyle in New York, LErmitage
in Los Angeles and, in Paris, at Le Bristol.
All three are very, very satisfying. In Paris
I sometimes stay in a little hotel called
Who is the most interesting person youve

met on your travels?
Irving Penn. He took my photograph in New
York for Vogue. Any PR impulse you had
going dissipated as soon as you met him.
You knew that none of that was going to
hang. If he asked you something simple like,
How are you?, you werent going to try to
sell him the usual stuff, you were going to
attempt the truth. He was just funny, deadly
serious but very funny, and he made you
want to cry or put your head in his lap.
How do you relax?
I listen to music. I occasionally rock it up, but
mostly its the blues. And I read, and I might
saunter somewhere, usually to get coffee.
Thats everything I like. That and bookshops.
When were lming and the cast come round
to say, Were off to go water-skiing/look at
the Grand Canyon/Taj Mahal, I say, Ill catch
you later, Ill be in the caf on the corner.
Cafs are my favourite thing in the world. I
navigate by them. As a phenomenon, they
are beautiful and essential.
SLUG
WORD
OF MOUTH
JORDAN
PRABAL GURUNG
MORE TRAVEL NEWS
WORDS: JENNY KING, LAUREL MUNSHOWER
PARIS
SLUG
The village of Ghandruk in
the Annapurna region
Return to Nepal
WORDS: LAUREN DECARLO; PHOTOS: ALAMY

WORDS: JENNY KING, LAUREL MUNSHOWER
Following last years devastating earthquake, the country

is welcoming travellers back, and theres no better guide to
Kathmandu and beyond than fashion designer PRABAL GURUNG
Nepal is magical but its also home, says fashion designer Prabal Gurung,
who grew up in Kathmandu and returns every year to visit his mother, brother
and sister. And though Gurung has lived and worked in New York for the last
15 years (he became design director of Bill Blass in 2004 then, ve years later,
launched his own line), his homeland is never far from his mind. The Mongolian
lamb-trim coats in his fall 2014 collection were inspired by the remote
mountains of Mustang that straddle the Himalayas, and his spring 2016 runway
show began with 30 Buddhist monks chanting (his way of saying thank you
for the generosity shown after Aprils earthquake; Gurungs relief fund has
raised around AED 3.7 million). The spirit of the people in Nepal is incredible,
he says. I want to encourage everyone to travel there its totally safe. When
asked for his must-sees, Gurung has his recommended itinerary memorised at
this point. You cant say youve been to Nepal without visiting the monasteries
in Lumbini, the jungles near the Indian border in Chitwan National Park and the
mountains the Annapurna, Langtang National Park and the Everest region.
What follows is the ultimate cheat sheet to one of the worlds most mysterious
and far-ung destinations.
Gurung picks up materials

in the markets. Below:
Novice monks in Lumbini
HOW GURUNG SPENDS

A DAY IN KATHMANDU
Ill have chai around 6am while
looking out at the Manaslu,
Ganesh Himal and Langtang
mountains from my mothers
house. Ill walk around those
little winding roads in Patan or
Bhaktapur. I like to watch the
people who live there they have
very little but theyre lled with
peace. The earthquake damaged
or destroyed many of the old
temples in Durbar Square and at
the Swayambhunath Stupa, but
Nepalis cherish them and Im sure
theyll be restored. Most nights, Ill
meet friends in Thamel to listen
to live music. My favourite local
bands are the Midnight Riders
and Bipul Chettri.
HERES WHERE TO SHOP
I always bring a suitcase back
to New York lled with scarves,
blankets, fabrics and cashmere.
You can nd inexpensive
cashmere in Thamel. I always
get inspiration walking through
the markets. I love Asan Tole for
fabrics. There are endless shops
selling the most colourful saris
and jewellery. The best spices are
found in the open-air markets in
Asan Tole. Check out New Road
for high-end silver items such as
jewellery and vases. Patan and
Bhaktapur are the best for local
handicrafts like woodcarvings
and metalwork. I also try to pick
up Thangkas, the traditional
Buddhist paintings that take
forever to make. Theyre so
intricate. And one of these days,
Ill buy some of those really
expensive textiles that date
back centuries.
AND EAT IN KATHMANDU
Roadhouse Caf (00977-1-426
0187), Old House (00977-1-425
0931, theoldhouse.com.np), The
Vesper House (00977-1-500
9240, vesperhouse.com) and
Lhakpas Chulo (00977-1-554
2986) are on the higher end
and very good. The best food,
though, is made in the holein-the-wall places that serve
traditional Nepali dishes like
momo (dumpling) and Newari
food lots of beans, water
buffalo and beaten rice. The
SIDE-TRIP CHECKLIST
homemade spirit its sort of like

sake is worth a try, too. Theres
an amazing Newari restaurant
called Newa Lahana in Kirtipur
that overlooks some of the last
green elds in the Kathmandu
Valley, and a little Tibetan place in
Boudha, run by an older refugee
couple, called Double Dorje.
They serve the best thukpa and
thenthuk (homemade noodle
soups) and Tibetan bread in the
city. And Tukuche Thakali Kitchen
(00977-1-443 0356) is one of my
favourites for dal bhat (rice and
lentils with sides of vegetables
and meat, like chicken or goat).
HOTEL RECOMMENDATIONS
FOR CLIMBERS
Yeti Mountain Home (doubles
from AED 370; 00977-1-443
8570, yetimountainhome.com)
is a collection of six lodges in the
Everest trekking route of Nepal.
Theyve got panoramic views of
some of the highest mountains
in the world. And within the
Annapurna Conservation Area,
Ker & Downey (doubles from
AED 735; 00977-1-443 5686,
keranddowneynepal.com) has
the most luxurious lodgings for
those trekking the Himalayas.
HIKES, TREKS AND CLIMBS
FOR ALL
Ive done everything from a
three-week trek to day-hikes
out of Kathmandu. Shivapuri
Nagarjun National Park, right
on the edge of Kathmandu, is a
quick and easy way to get out of
the chaos of the city and smell

the forest and maybe see some
mountains and monkeys. There
are ponds, streams and wild
orchids growing out of trees. A
more strenuous hike is up to the
Champa Devi, on the southern
side of the valley. Check out
the ancient city of Kirtipur on
the way. If you want to turn this
day-trip into an overnight, call
ahead to the Hattiban Resort
(doubles from AED 330; 009771-691 6140, everestlodges.com/
lodges/himalayan-heightresort). It has the greatest view
of the entire Kathmandu Valley
with snowy mountains to the
north. More experienced hikers
should do the Annapurna
Circuit Trek (20 days), Langtang
National Park (seven days), or
the full, original Everest Base
Camp trek (21 days). All three
are worth experiencing at least
once in your life.
WHERE HES GOING NEXT
Lumbini, the birthplace of
Buddha, to experience the
spiritual energy and see the
site of the planned Mahasiddha
Sanctuary for Universal Peace. I
always love going to the White
Monastery in Boudha. Its the
most serene place on the planet.
And the Patan Museum. Its a
restored palace and the space is
beautiful, the history fascinating
and the artwork inspiring.
Our top specialists in Nepal

Antonia Neubauer of
Myths and Mountains
mythsandmountains.com
Sanjay Saxena of
Destination Himalaya
destinationhimalaya.net
Gurung recommends
making the Hyatt Regency
Kathmandu (doubles from
AED 820; 00977-1-449
1234, kathmandu.regency.
hyatt.com), Dwarikas
Hotel (doubles from AED
1,370; 00977-1-447 9488,
dwarikas.com) or the
Gokarna Forest Resort
(doubles from AED 550;
00977-1-445 1212, gokarna.
com) your home base in
Kathmandu. Then, get out
and explore.
1. Book a sightseeing ight
from Kathmandu into the
Everest region
If you go at sunrise
or sunset, youll realise
how small we are in this
universe. Its exhilarating,
exciting, unnerving and
calming all at once.
2. Take a boat ride on
Phewa Lake in Pokhara
Spend the day wandering
around the Lakeside
district. Its so tranquil and
you can climb up the World
Peace Pagoda and pop
into all the kitschy tourist
shops. From there, you can
do a four-day trek up Poon
Hill. Its not that strenuous
children can do it. Even
though its just a 30-minute
ight from Kathmandu, you
may want to spend a night
or two. Stay at the ShangriLa Village Resort (doubles
from AED 495; 00977-61462 222, hotelshangrila.
com/pokhara/hoteloverview) for amazing
views of the Annapurna.
3. Visit Chitwan
National Park
Its a short hop on Buddha
Air (buddhaair.com) just
20 minutes or so. Give
yourself a few days in the
jungle to canoe down the
Rapti River. Youll denitely
spot some crocs. And do
an elephant safari youll
see rhinos and, if youre
lucky, maybe a tiger. I like
the Kasara Resort (doubles
from AED 735; 00977-1-443
8570, kasararesort.com).
WORD OF MOUTH
A wide-brimmed hat is great for both mountains and beaches, as it protects against the sun.
But its often soft and loses shape if you pack it badly. Heres how to do it right
Stuff the crown with soft items,

such as socks, underwear and scarves.
Place the hat in the centre of your
suitcase, with the crown facing up.
WORDS: LIE YU CHEN, JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: ALETHEIA
And nally, youre ready to go!

Pack the rest of your clothes in
such a way that they surround the
hat and keep it rmly in place.
Place other items at on top

of the hat.
Beauty on the go
Net-A-Porters rst beauty travel kit contains
12 carry-on-sized essentials including a radiance
serum, nourishing cuticle oil and long-lasting
lipstick to keep you fresh and glowing on the road.
Travel set,
AED 200,
Net-A-Porter
Clockwise from top left:

Cosy restaurant Lazy Bear;
enjoy family-style fare at
Roses Luxury; roasted
celery with watermelon
kabu and lacto butter at
Flat Three; chefs at work
in the open kitchen at
Clove Club
ON TREND
Be our guest
hile supper clubs have been trending for the past few
years, with aspiring chefs inviting diners into their homes
or hosting one-off dinners in cool secret locations (think
building sites and art galleries), some are now expanding into brickand-mortar restaurants while preserving the intimate, dinner-party
vibe. The Clove Club (five-course set menu from AED 340; 0044207-729 6496, thecloveclub.com) in Londons Shoreditch has gone
from a pop-up in an ofce block in Canary Wharf to a communal
eatery where guests arrive at the same time, enjoy set menus and
purchase tickets in advance. The restaurant earned a Michelin star in
2014 and last year made in on to The Worlds Best Restaurants list
(debuting at number 55). Flat Three (seven-course tasting menu
from AED 365; 0044-207-792 8987, flatthree.london) in Holland Park

transformed from a test kitchen in the chefs home to an intimate
Japanese-Scandinavian restaurant with set timings and a tasting
menu. Across the Atlantic, former supper club Lazy Bear (11-course set
menu from AED 440; 001-415-874-9921, lazybearsf.com) is now a cosy
dining room in San Francisco where guests mingle in the kitchen predinner, then take a seat at one of two communal tables where theyre
welcomed by the chef. In Washington DC, Roses Luxury (dishes from
AED 110; 001-202-580 8889, rosesluxury.com) serves family-style
dishes and is named after the grandmother of Momofuku-trained chef
Aaron Silverman, who set up a restaurant around the corner from his
house where he had been hosting pop-up dinners.
Enjoy a dinner party atmosphere at these pop-up restaurants gone permanent
WORD OF MOUTH
TASTE BUZZ
NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH
Left (and north) of centre
EXTREME MILKSHAKES
Milkshakes have come a long way from the innocent childhood
indulgences they once were. First came hard shakes
creamy concoctions toughened up with spirits. Now the
trend has been taken a step further with a junk-food twist:
take a sip on a freakshake.
The movement started at Canberra caf Ptissez (gigantic

glasses topped with pecan pie, lashings of cream and handfuls
of pretzels), before spreading across Australia to Johnny Pump
in Melbourne (one version features an entire lemon tart) and
Sydneys Foodcraft (where each is capped with a doughnut
pierced with a straw). It has now made its way to Dubai where
you can get your milkshake topped with cookies and cake at
British gastropub The Black Lion. Social media is in meltdown
over these extreme drinks so much so that Sydney food
photographer Alana Dimou created this calorie-laden
parody of the monster madness (below).
Some say Le
Bal Caf has the
best coffee (and
brunch) in Paris
he Batignolles, a
sophisticated Paris
hipster haven adjacent
to Montmartre, doesnt have
fast-fashion chains or hard-toget-into restaurants around
every corner. What it does have
is an organic farmers market
every Saturday on the Boulevard
des Batignolles and plenty to
check out after youve had your
ll of wheatgrass shots.
WORDS: FIONA KERR; JESSICA ROMM, JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: ALANA DIMOU
ATAO
Expect super-fresh seafood
from the owners oyster farm
in Brittany. Its one of Wes
Andersons favourite restaurants.
Entres from AED 49;
0033-1-4627 8112
CUISSE DE GRENOUILLE
The second surf shop by
brothers Lucas and Sverin
Instagram hit,
the freakshake
Go wild
This Panthera scarf by Herms makes a statement
while also contributing to safeguard endangered
big cats. Based on the work of wildlife artist
Robert Dallet, part of the proceeds go to notfor-prot foundation Panthera.
Panthera scarf,
AED 1,450,
Herms
Bonnichon, the masterminds

behind the trendy Surf in
Paris sweatshirts.
Sweatshirts from
AED 400; 0033-952-75 4193;
cuissedegrenouille.com
LE BAL CAF
British expats ock here
for strong coffee and
beautiful pastries (its run
by alums of Londons Dover
Street Rose Bakery).
Entres from AED 60; 0033-14470 7551, le-bal.fr/le-bal-cafe
ROCA
Small plates are big here. There
are four appetisers and four
entres nightly. Order the veal
tartare and the lamb shoulder if
theyre on the menu.
Entres from AED 90; 0033-14764 8604, rocaparis.com
LONG-HAUL TREATS
DA L L A S
NEY
TO S Y D
GELE
LO S A N
O
T
I
B
A
ABU DH
JO
BURG
HANNES
N TA
TO AT L A
TO
O HOUS
DUBAI T
YO R K
TO N E W
G
N
O
K
HONG
Sneakers,
AED 460,
Rivieras
at NEO
Flying time:
16 hours, 55 minutes
Airline: Qantas QF8;
Airbus A380
Distance: 8,580 miles
Qantas offers 14 First Class and 64 Business Class

atbed seats on this route. The 35 Premium Economy
seats on the upper deck and 371 Economy seats are
surprisingly roomy. If youre travelling First Class, dont
miss the eight-course Neil Perry tasting menu and the
12 main course options, offered on select ights.
Flying time:
Airline: Etihad Airways
EY171; Boeing 777
The carrier has, surprisingly, chosen to assign its 777

aircraft to this route, instead of the A380 (which
offers the jaw-dropping Residences). Still, passengers
get the usual Etihad perks like First Class amenity
kits, full-size comforters in Business and the caf for
Economy passengers.
Flying time:
Airline: Delta DL201;
Boeing 777
This route makes Delta the only carrier to y from major

hub Atlanta directly to South Africa. The Economy
Comfort seats offer extra legroom and recline. The
Business Class seats are broader than those of other
airlines using 777 aircraft, as the seating conguration
is 1-2-1. The ight does not have First Class.
Flying time:
16 hours 20 minutes
Airline: Emirates EK211;
Airbus A380
First Class yers can enjoy private suites and shower

spas while First and Business Class passengers can relax
at the on-board cocktail lounge. Economy offers Wi-Fi
and TVs with over 1,800 channels. On March 31, Emirates
will start the worlds longest ight (Dubai to Panama
City; 17 hours, 35 minutes).
Flying time:
16 hours
Airline: Cathay Pacic
CX830, 840, 846,
890; Boeing 777
First Class has just six seats; expect an amuse-bouche,

pyjamas and slippers on arrival. In Business Class, pick
from a four-course menu (including Asian fare) and
fresh fruit and cheese. Economy seats have a cradle
mechanism and in-seat power and storage.
Best foot forward
Inspired by the hues of the ocean,

these Fifties-style Rivieras canvas and
cotton mesh sneakers will get you
in the holiday mood. Pick up a pair
at One&Only resorts in Cape Town,
Maldives, Mauritius and Palmilla.
oneandonlyresorts.com
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON; ILLUSTRATIONS: SABINA PARKINSON
With ight durations going beyond 16 hours, top international carriers are offering sweeteners to make the journey
more comfortable. AARTI COOPER lists some of the longest non-stop routes and what youll get on them
WORD OF MOUTH
Art attack
2 MINUTES WITH...
Jaafar
The eye has to travel said fashion doyenne Diana Vreeland.

And where better to take the eye than on a tour of new spaces that
wow on the outside as much as they deliver thought-provoking
displays inside? Heres where to gallery hop this year
WORDS: KAREN BURSHTEIN; INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: ALAMY
The artsy Zeitz MoCAA

in Cape Town
FOR A FRESH LOOK AT AFRICAN ART
and appears to oat on water.
Zeitz MoCAA (Museum of

Contemporary African Art),
Cape Town
OUTSIDE Thomas Heatherwick reworks
the 42 concrete cylinders of a disused
colonial-era grain silo on the citys
V&A Waterfront.
INSIDE Former Puma CEO Jochen
Zeitzs rst-rate collection of panAfrican artists include Julie Mehretu
and Nicholas Hlobo. Above it will be
a 28-room hotel, The Silo, from the
extraordinary Liz Biden.
OPENING Late 2016
INSIDE Billed as the pioneering
FOR SCIENCE IN SOUTH AMERICA
Museum of Tomorrow,
Rio de Janeiro
OUTSIDE Santiago Calatravas
museum has a huge cantilevered roof
covered in solar panels that tilt like
wings following the sun.
INSIDE They say: The museum will
focus on the sustainable future of
2061, 50 years from its 2011 foundation.
Translation: cool forward-thinking
games designed to connect science
to everyday life.
OPENED December 2015
FOR EAST MEETS WEST
Louvre Abu Dhabi

OUTSIDE Jean Nouvels ultra-
modern structure on Saadiyat

Island is haphazardly arranged
international museum in the Arab

world, there will be Monets, Manets
and other masterpieces on loan from
French institutions as part of 300
artefacts spanning world cultures.
OPENING Second half 2016
FOR ARCHITECTURE ADDICTS
Casa Vicens, Barcelona

OUTSIDE The rst house Gaud
designed in 1883, decorated in a

multicoloured riot of tiles, will nally
open to the public this year.
INSIDE A look at the starting point
of Gauds gloriously molten
architecture via painstakingly
restored room set-ups.
OPENING Second half 2016
FOR A RICH AND DIVERSE
STORY OF THE USA
National Museum of African-American

History and Culture, Washington, DC
OUTSIDE David Adjayes bronze-ligreeclad, three-tiered building features
patterns inspired by traditions of
African-American craftsmanship.
INSIDE A variety of exhibits cover
history, culture and art, ranging
from a hymn book carried by
leading abolitionist Harriet Tubman
to the Mothership stage prop used
by funk band Parliament.
OPENING September 2016
The Jordanian
royal and poprock artist on
raising the
prole of his
native country
What shouldnt we miss on a trip to Jordan?

I just nished shooting the music video for my
current single Dalia in the historical village
Umm el-Jimal in the north of Jordan, which
is home to ruins of Byzantine, early Islamic
and Roman towns and cities and shouldnt
be missed. The archaeological site of Petra is
perhaps Jordans most famous and beautiful
landmark and is one of the New 7 Wonders
of the World. Other must-sees are Wadi Rum,
the Dead Sea and Jerash, known for its Roman
ruins. One of my favourite spots in the country
is Umm Qais: Dotted with evidence of the
Roman Empire, its perched atop a hill and
offers sweeping views of Lake Tiberias and
the Golan Heights. On a summers day, there
is nowhere more serene.
Where would you like to shoot future
music videos?
There are still tonnes of places within Jordan
Id like to shoot. I like to expose the beauty
of the Middle East and battle the ridiculous
stereotypes via music and the arts.
Which music festivals are worth travelling for?
Coachella, which is held annually in Indio,
California (this year, in April), is probably
the coolest festival Ive ever been to. The
atmosphere is always great.
Which countrys music inspires you?
Algeria Im a huge fan of Ra music. In fact,
all the Arab countries of North Africa inspire
me. Im very intrigued by Moroccan rhythms
and their style of singing.
Jaafars debut album Folktales Of Spring
is released this month
Roman ruins in
Umm Qais, Jordan
The pool and outdoor

area of the six-bedroom
Amilla Estate
MY ISLAND S
HOME
Unwind with family and friends
in spacious residences at
Amilla Fushi in the Maldives
et in the Baa Atoll, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Amilla

Fushi is an exotic retreat just a 30-minute seaplane ride from
Mal International Airport. A secluded paradise of pristine
white-sand beaches and crystal clear waters, the resort offers overwater, tropical or beachside residences. Groups of friends or families
escaping on a beach holiday can choose from four, six and eight
private beach residences. Designed with comfort and seclusion in
mind, each residence features a private beachfront pool, a fully
equipped kitchen, spacious LA-inspired living spaces, a state-ofthe-art TV and sound system and a dedicated butler.
For those looking to entertain their guests with a unique culinary
experience, the in-house butler can arrange a bespoke menu to be
created by one of the islands resident chefs. Alternatively, guests can
make their own meals using fresh produce and artisanal treats from The
Emperor General Store at the resort. Embark on a culinary journey with
any of the ve on-site dining outlets offering a wide array of experiences
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
From top: The Great Beach

Residence features eight
bedrooms, expansive living
spaces and two pools
under the supervision of internationally renowned

chef Luke Mangan. Enjoy a sophisticated meal in an
over-water setting at Lonu, chef Mangans signature
restaurant; indulge in a refreshing cocktail on the
rooftop terrace; or choose from a diverse selection
of culinary delights including Asian cuisine, grilled
seafood, Joes Pizza and the islands rst authentic
Fish and Chip Shop at poolside social hub Baazaar.
Along with a fully equipped gourmet kitchen
and 24-hour personal butler service, the fourbedroom Beach Residences feature a spacious
living space with en-suite bathrooms and indoor
and outdoor showers.
The Amilla Estate six-bedroom residences
feature oor-to-ceiling windows, private wrap-around
pools with sunken sun loungers and an expansive
outdoor deck with a hot tub, pool table and bar area.
Stylish minimalistic interiors make use of a palette
of tans and creams, customised wooden doors and
hand-carved lattice screens.
Large families or groups of friends can opt for the
stand-alone eight-bedroom Great Beach Residence.
Housing two vast beachfront pools, an expansive
sun deck, a fully equipped gourmet kitchen and a
designated tness area, these private homes away
from home are the epitome of comfort and practical
living. The eight bright and airy bedroom suites are
decorated in sleek contemporary style and outtted
with polished marble oors. The suites also house
large bathrooms with free-standing egg-shaped baths
and a marble dining room.
For more information, call 00960-660 6444
or visit amilla.mv
Ever since he devoured

his first life-altering
bowl of ramen, Pulitzer
Prize-winning author
JUNOT DAZ dreamed of
going to Fukuoka, home
to some of the best
noodles in the world.
When he finally made it
there, he found not only
the ramen of his fantasies
but unbelievable gyoza
and hot pot and chicken
sashimi (yes, you read
that right). Welcome
to the next great
Japanese food city
ukuoka began the way all

important love affairs should
with a meal. This was on my
rst trip to Japan, way back in
the Nineties. My ight landed
after supper and by the time I
hauled myself from Narita to Shimokitazawa,
that coolest of Tokyo districts, I was straight
starving, so my boy Michi took me to his local
ramen-ya. Remember: This was before there
was any Ippudo NYC. Before Totto. Before
Jin. Id never had real ramen in my life, but
that simple bowl of Hakata-style tonkotsu
the pork-bone broth of your dreams just
tore open my brain, my soul, my tongue.
Afterwards, in a state of jet-lagged exaltation, I
swore to myself that, no matter what, I would
go to Fukuoka, which Michi had identied
as the birthplace of the ramen we had just
eaten. Yes, that rst night in Shimokitazawa,
under the lights of the old train station (now
demolished), I swore a sacred ramen oath.
Turns out I suck at sacred ramen oaths,
however, because over the years I visited
Japan 13 more times and never once made it
to Fukuoka. What can I tell you? Something,
it seems, always came up: trips up north, trips
down the coast, a love affair with Osaka, with

Kyoto, with Tokyo always Tokyo. In the end,
I never made it further south than Miyajima.
And yet, despite everything, Fukuoka
seemed to stay in the picture. Close friends
visited the city and brought back glowing
reports and even better photos. An exgirlfriend, Dominicana, revealed out of
nowhere that she had visited the city in the
Eighties and loved it. Monocle named it one
of the most liveable cities in the world. And
then, weirdest of all, in 2010 the Dominican
superstar Juan Luis Guerra dropped his single
Bachata En Fukuoka. Legend has it that
JLG had gone to Fukuoka to play a gig and
was so blown away by the Japanese audience
by their energy and by the fact that they knew
all the words to his songs and could actually
dance bachata that he recorded the song in
Fukuokas honour. Bachata En Fukuoka
became a number-one hit in the Latin market,
and just like that, Fukuoka entered the
Dominican lexicon, guaranteeing that even
my rural relatives know that Fukuoka is a city
in Japan. (Its a good song, too.) Anyway, I took
that as a sign. And yet clearly I must not be big
on signs, either, because another four trips to
PHOTOS: RICHARD WEST, CORBIS, ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES
RHAPSODY
IN A BOWL
FOOD
The bright city lights of
Fukuoka. Left: Enjoy homestyle cooking and camaraderie
at a traditional yatai
A Rem Koolhaasdesigned building. Left:

The city is one of the
birthplaces of gyoza
Japan passed before Bachata En Fukuoka

came on one last time and I had nally had
it. Enough, I thought. Enough. I bought my
tickets and, nearly 20 years after the whole
Fukuoka affair began, it was on.
And now that Ive been, I can say in my best
public service voice: Folks, please dont be like
me go to Fukuoka as soon as possible.
With its canals and river walks and
night-time neon spectacle, Fukuoka is the
kind of place that inspires songs, that makes
latecomers like me wish we had visited sooner.
The town is the perfect size for taking in:
The weather is salubrious; the inhabitants
are both welcoming and famously handsome
(Fukuokan women recently ranked third
most attractive after Akitas and Kyotos,
according to a national survey); and if the
masses of Korean and Chinese shoppers are
any metric (they were snapping up everything
from the latest PlayStations to multiple Bao
Bao Issey Miyake bags), the retail options are
endless. There are cool museums and some
Yayoi Kusama and Keith Haring sculptures
and even a Rem Koolhaas-designed housing
complex. Just outside the city stands one of
No trip to Fukuoka
is complete without
gyoza. This is,
after all, one of the
birthplaces of said
dumpling; it was
here that veterans
of the failed war in
China recreated
the jiaozi that so
many of them had
grown to love
the loveliest Shinto shrines in all of Japan,
Dazaifu Tenmangu, the nal resting place
of Japans great brain, poet-scholar Sugawara
Michizane, aka Tenjin, the god of scholarship.
Throw in Hakata Bay, around which Fukuoka
has grown like a lobster claw, and the nearby
beaches and easy access to Korea, and you can
understand why the city is a favourite of both
travel cognoscenti and bachateros.
And the eats? Well, as I sensed that rst
night in Japan, the grub in Fukuoka is the
absolute tops the citys gift to the world.
Our little group of three started eating as
soon as we landed and didnt stop until we
were boarding our train to go. As a diner,
you simply cannot go wrong. (Well, maybe
you can, but I suspect you have to really try.)
Theres Fujiyoshi (entres from AED 37; 008192-761 5692) for out-of-this-world yakitori, the
ridiculously savoury chicken skewers. For the
famous local chicken hot pot, mizutaki, run to

its famed creator, Suigetsu Honten (prix xes
from AED 92; 0081-92-531 0031). They also
do a mouth-watering chicken sashimi yes,
chicken sashimi. The way I see it, if youre
going to try semi-raw chicken, it might as well
be in super-hygienic Japan. Theres even swell
eats on the approach to the Dazaifu shrine: the
fragrant, densely delicious black sesame ice
cream should not be missed.
But no trip to Fukuoka is complete
without gyoza. Fukuoka is, after all, one of
the birthplaces of said dumpling; it was here
that veterans returning from the failed war
with China recreated the jiaozi that so many
of them had grown to love. World War II
might not always make it into the textbooks in
Japan, but its gustatory echo is on nearly every
Japanese menu. There are many contenders
for best gyoza in town, but Im partial to the
Yatai food stands line the

river in the Nakasu district
Ramen is said to
have originated
in Fukuoka
beautifully charred juicies at Temujin (entres

from AED 22; 0081-92-413 5239, gyouzaya.net).
The fact that a restaurant serving Japanese
interpretations of a Chinese dumpling is
named for the Mongol overlord Genghis
Khan, whose grandson Kublai would twice
fail to invade Japan via Fukuoka, exemplies
just how deep and complicated the citys
connections with the Asian mainland run.
And as for the ramen that started this
whole odyssey? All I can say is that what I
ate at the source of the tonkotsu-broth Nile
exceeded all expectations. I know the world
is supposed to be all global now, but from
where I chow, what counts as outstanding in
a ramen periphery like New York would only
rate as pretty good in a ramen metropole like
Fukuoka. Rather than perorate needlessly, I
simply recommend that a traveller hit any of
the branches of Ichiran (entres from AED 30;
ichiran.co.jp/english), which styles itself as the
most dedicated Ramen Company to the study
of Tonkotsu Ramen in the whole world as
well as the more local Shin-Shin (entres from
AED 22; 0081-92-732 4006, hakata-shinshin.
com). Sit yourself down, order your bowl and
observe as bite by bite, slurp by slurp, your

mind gets blown. Every bowl of ramen is
said to contain a universe, and this universe
is a celestial symphony of tender noodles,
farm-fresh green onions and pungent porky
splendour. If its true that the culinary gods
shine their glory on Japan, then that glory
shines a little brighter in Fukuoka.
So ok, all of us food and travel heads agree:
The dining in Fukuoka is divine.
And yet.
And yet this aint even half of what makes
Fukuoka so fascinating. For real. As corny
as this might sound, and believe me, it is
super-corny, Fukuokas real draw the umami
of its broth, if you will is its people. But its
true. In all of my trips to Japan, Ive never
had the pleasure of meeting a friendlier, more
welcoming bunch. They are almost Latin
in their warmth, in their simpatico. (Maybe
Guerra shouldnt have been surprised; if any
Japanese were going to know bachata, it
would be the Fukuokans.)
And, man, do they ever talk. Inscrutable
Asians, nothing. Everywhere we went, locals
engaged us at length without the least bit

of encouragement. And it was awesome.
In Yanagibashi Market, where you can buy
everything from sweet mochi to gasping sh,
one of the merchants, a Mr Yoshida, told us
about his father who had emigrated to Hawaii
in, Im guessing, the Twenties; the old man
started a sweet shop somewhere on the
islands but eventually returned to Japan. Well,
recently Mr Yoshida and the wife took a vacay
to Hawaii and managed to track down the old
sweet shop and guess what: His fathers name
was still on it. The new owners had kept it.
Amazing, right? And then there was the night
we were on the Deaibashi Bridge, enjoying the
reection of the neon sizzle across the surface
of the Naka River, and a guitarist selling CDs
got us all talking. He wasnt the Bachata En
Fukuoka type but he did serenade the girls
with some sharp Whitesnake and Aerosmith
covers, and under the rst of the years cherry
blossoms, bathed in lights, you couldnt have
orchestrated anything more sublime. Human
moments like these are naturally what cities
are all about they just seem to happen at a
higher rate in Fukuoka.
FOOD
Ichiran is known for

its tonkotsu ramen
Sit yourself down, order your bowl of ramen

and observe as bite by bite, slurp by slurp, your
mind gets blown. If its true that the culinary
gods shine their glory on Japan, then that
glory shines a little brighter in Fukuoka
Yakitori chicken
skewers are a
speciality of the city
If you ask me, the same thing that makes

the city such a wonderful eating destination
is also what makes its people so fantastically
extroverted. Closer to the mainland than to
the capital its just 212km from Busan, South
Korea, but 893km west of Tokyo Fukuoka
has historically been one of Japans most
outward-looking places, a crossroads of sorts,
a cultural crucible, what the scholar Mary
Louise Pratt would have called a contact
zone: a social space where cultures meet,
clash and grapple with each other. Its here
that the larger world, for better or for worse,
rst leaked into Japan, and Japan, for better
or for worse, leaked out, and where so much
of the trans-culturation that made Japan and
its kitchen what they are today took place.
Contact zones are areas of conict but also,
as Pratt writes, of exhilarating moments of
wonder and revelation. And yes, joy. Are we
surprised then that the children of contact
zones, Caribbean types all, tend to have a
greater curiosity, a larger appetite if you will,
for what is strange, what is elsewhere, what is
other? That rather than running from these
things, they embrace them?
Its this spirit of the contact zone that is the
true soul of Fukuoka, and why I fell so hard
for the city. (For I, too, am a child of a contact

zone and therefore highly vulnerable to such
enchantments.) And why, despite all the fancy
eats of the city, I found myself returning again
and again to, of all places, Fukuokas famous
yatai. These little food stalls serving homestyle cooking, like oden and yakitori, were once
widespread in Japan but now survive only in
Fukuoka and its vicinity. In general, yatai get
almost no love. Travel guides dismiss them as
touristic one-offs, and every Japanese person
I mentioned them to gave me the same spiel:
Yatai are for tourists; locals dont eat there; the
food is expensive and not that great.
Bueno. Maybe Im just a gaijin dummy, but
I did a whole series of yatai and found the food,
on average, to be delicious and affordable, and
even when the food was so-so it didnt really
matter, because the camaraderie inside those
haphazard wood-and-tarp walls was about
the best thing in Fukuoka. I urge you to sit
down at Mami-chans yatai on Showa-dori, and
after she warns you about the yatai near the
river (Same food as here, but overpriced),
tuck into the rst complimentary wing she
dishes out, followed by her glorious handmade
gyoza and her special yaki-ramen noodles
in a very small serving of broth (another local
invention) and let the spirit of Fukuoka, the
spirit of contact, take hold of you. Let it put its
hands on you and let it, like in a bachata, carry
you along. On a good night, everyone will be
talking: to your group, to Mami-chan, to one
another. There will be men in suits welcoming
a new colleague from Nagoya. A pair of young
women who just graduated from high school
and are celebrating while crammed alongside a
tall, handsome elder, another local, who hasnt
been in a yatai in 30 years. Back when I was
young, he will explain, yatai were where the
hungry boys ate. And something will tell you
that when this prosperous businessman was
young, he too was one of the hungry boys.
Sit in a yatai and its secret will be revealed:
Yatai are nothing less and nothing more than
diminutive contact zones places where the
foundational physics that made Fukuoka
(and the nation) play out in miniature. Sit in a
yatai, shoulder to shoulder with locals and, yes,
with tourists, and what you will hear, smell,
taste and participate in will be nothing less
and nothing more than the simple magic from
which nations are born.
Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com) and Qatar Airways
(qatarairways) y direct to Tokyo from
where Japan Airlines (jal.com) ies
to Fukuoka. Etihad (etihad.com) ies
direct to Seoul from where Korean Air
(koreanair.com) ies to Fukuoka
SLUG
WHERE
TO STAY
ART HOTELS
DITA VON TEESE
HO CHI MINH CITY
Works of art
Adding to their museum-worthy art collections and in-house

galleries, hotels have upped the ante with art experts on
staff for a cultural experience right on your doorstep
MELBOURN E, AUST R A L I A
The Cullen
Part of the Art Series Hotel Group each boutique property is inspired by and dedicated
to a contemporary Australian artist the Cullen in Melbournes trendy suburb of
Prahran takes it cue from Adam Cullen, popularly known as the Damien Hirst of art Down
Under. The hotels dedicated art curator leads guests on a tour of the late artists quirky,
cartoonish prints and paintings, which are spread around the public areas, restaurants,
bar and rooms plus you can tap him for tips on the top exhibitions in town.
Doubles from AED 500; 0061-3-9098 1555, artserieshotels.com.au/cullen
SLUG
NEW YOR K, USA
The Surrey
Enjoy a curated tour of The Surreys modern artworks with artexpert-in-residence Natasha Schlesinger, founder of the awardwinning tour company ArtMuse. The propertys original collection
was selected by interior designer Lauren Rottet, including the
striking make-up-free Kate Moss portrait by Chuck Close, which
is the focus point of the lobby. Schlesinger is now extending and
evolving the hotels art programme and guides guests through the
extensive collection of works by Jenny Holzer, William Kentridge
and Imogen Cunningham, worth around AED 115 million.
Doubles from AED 1,500; 001-212-288 3700, thesurrey.com
ART HOTELS
PA R I S , FRANCE
Le Royal Monceau
Raffles Paris
Dating back to the Thirties but more
recently reimagined by Philippe
Starck, Le Royal Monceau plays dual
roles as hotel and museum, housing
its own gallery Art District and
a contemporary art bookstore, La
Librairie des Arts, with over 700
titles. The hotels art concierge, Julie
Eugne, offers customised tours
of the private collection, which
includes ne-art photography by
Simon Chaput, Koichiro Doi and
Guy Le Querrec, and can organise
gallery viewings and studio visits
around Paris, devising tailor-made
itineraries for guests.
Doubles from AED 3,520;
0033-1-42 99 8800,
www.leroyalmonceau.com
J OHANNE SBUR G ,
SOUTH AF R I C A
The Saxon Hotel

Villas and Spa
With a vast collection of African
art and artefacts, including 200
original pieces sourced from
South Africa, this serene urban
retreat takes pride in supporting
emerging and established artists
from the region. A tour through
the exhibits with the MasterArt
team, Ian Coetser and Janet Blair,
will reveal sketches by acclaimed
artist Dean Simon of former South
African president and Nobel Prizewinner Nelson Mandela (who
completed his autobiography,
Long Walk To Freedom, while
staying here), as well as an array
of oil paintings and sculptures in
the sprawling gardens.
Doubles from AED 1,360; 0027-11292 6000, saxon.co.za
S I N GAPO RE
The St. Regis

Singapore
Blending Eastern and Western
inuences, this elegant hotel
houses more than 70 original
sculptures, paintings and prints
by some of the art worlds
biggest names including Pablo
Picasso, Marc Chagall and Joan
Mir, as well as by prominent
Asian artists Georgette Chen,
Cheong Soo Pieng and Li
Chen. The hotels resident art
connoisseur shares insights
and inspirations behind the
masterpieces through daily Art
Appreciation sessions and a
30-minute Art of Living tour.
0065-6506 6888,
stregissingapore.com
CHARLESTON , USA
The Vendue
Following a major renovation, this
downtown Charleston hotel now
plays host to a private gallery space
in addition to 300 original works
displayed around the hotel. There
are three themed exhibitions each
year, curated by Robert Lange
Studios, who source artworks from
local and international galleries.
Full-time art docent, Emily
Rigsby, leads tours and daily art
talks, answers questions about
the exhibits and can assist with
purchases if something tickles your
fancy. Theres also an art studio,
where guests can stop by and
see artists-in-residence in action,
and a daily Art Reception where
grape and canaps are enjoyed
alongside the works.
Doubles from AED 980; 001-843577 7970, thevendue.com
ART HOTELS
The hotels art curator works

closely with the new Renzo
Piano-designed Astrup
Fearnley Museum to loan
artworks by the likes of Andy
Warhol and Damien Hirst
OSLO, NORWAY
The Thief
Located ttingly in the Tjuvholmen arts district, The Thief showcases an eclectic
collection of contemporary pieces selected by the hotels art curator Sune Nordgren
(former director of Oslos National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design), who
works closely with the new Renzo Piano-designed Astrup Fearnley Museum to loan
artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and Damien Hirst to display in the hotels public
spaces. Art is also peppered throughout the guest rooms, with a focus on photography
and graphic art; there are original works by Sir Peter Blake in the penthouse Oslo Suite
and the Apparatjik Suite features video art, complete with a roof-mounted projector.
Doubles from AED 1,115; 0047-24 00 4000, thethief.com
CNT
EXCLUSIVE
Canyon Ranch
Wellness Resort
at Kaplankaya
KATIE SILCOX nds herself relaxing at a new wellness
retreat in a picturesque corner of Turkey
s we jet along the Aegean coast in a

68ft yacht, breathing in the sea air
and gazing out at the open waters
dotted with battered shermens boats and
little lighthouses in the distance, I cant help
but feel instantly uplifted. And this is only
the journey from the airport. Ive landed in
Bodrum on Turkeys south-west coast and am
taking a rather unique high-speed transfer
across the Turkish riviera to the new Canyon
Ranch Wellness Resort at Kaplankaya.
Canyon Ranch has long been sought out in
America for its specialised wellness holidays
that offer guests a chance to disengage from
the stresses of modern life, enjoy some
downtime and begin on the path to achieving
personal health goals. The property at
Kaplankaya is the rst international outpost
for the brand, and as we speed across the

ocean I begin to understand why this quiet
corner of Turkey was chosen. With a few
additional minutes of on-ground jeep transfer
to reach the hotel, I take in the landscape:
tree-covered hills as far as the eye can see
and a certain sense of peace that only such
rugged nature can bring.
On checking in, Im introduced to the
on-site doctor who arranges an optional,
hour-long consultation during which we
discuss my current health and goals for the
week. Im told weight loss is a common
request, though the staff hope to help
you achieve much more, so that you walk
away with real knowledge for a healthier
lifestyle. The programme for my stay
includes one-on-one yoga, cooking lessons
with the chef, hiking to explore the local area

and treatments in the extensive spa.
The four oors comprising the main hotel
building is built into a cliff-side, each level
with huge glass walls proudly showing off
spectacular views over the ocean. The villas
and bedrooms are designed using natural
materials, with a rustic feel and showcasing
the same jaw-dropping view. From the lobby
at the top of the building, each staircase
down leads to a different zone, including
a relaxation room serving teas and juices, a
restaurant and the spa and tness centre,
the latter of which forms the heart of the
hotel. Spread across an entire oor, the spa
comprises 41 treatment rooms where you
can relax with everything from a Swedish
massage to the traditional Turkish hammam.
I opt for a facial and a hammam, both of
which, after a consultation with my personal
spa-programme advisor, are tailored to my
needs (tight shoulders and dehydrated skin
from travelling). Local elements are also
incorporated, with products made from
olive oil and rose-essence.
Going local is clearly of importance in the
kitchen as well, a place from which an endless
array of soul-cleansing, clean meals emerge,
including Turkish meze made from eggplant,
spinach, beans and other home-grown
vegetables mixed with natural yoghurt and
seasonings; seabass farmed off the propertys
coastline (in fact, I can see the farms from
the dinner table), plus local olive oil and
honey. Im later driven around the area where
villagers tend to beehives, and sprawling
valleys are bursting with the twisted trunks
and bountiful green leaves of olive trees, some
up to 400 years old, interspersed only by a few
PHOTOS: KATIE SILCOX, CORBIS
Rustic-chic villas are designed

with natural materials and
overlook the Aegean coast (left)
CNT EXCLUSIVE
Canyon Ranch is perched above

a white sand beach. Left: Views
of Kazikli Port from the hotels
upcoming El Captain restaurant
The Apollo Temple in nearby

Didim village. Left: Learn to
create healthy dishes like
seabass salad at the resort
small farming villages and the occasional

spike of a mosque minaret.
Keen to learn more, I step into the
kitchen for a cooking lesson with the
chef, where I prepare admittedly with
a lot of help a dish of grilled eggplant
garnished with pomegranate, cucumber,
mint and lime zest, as well as a salad of
spinach, lettuce, toasted almonds, pine
seeds and baked seabass. Better yet, the
chef emails me the recipes, so the healthy
habits can go home with me.
Its tempting to stay put and recharge,
but its worth exploring this pretty slice of
the world. The hotel offers a host of options,
including yacht charter and helicopterhopping to the nearby Greek islands of Kos,
Symi and Rhodes, as well as private tours to
places like Didim, a village that is home to
the ruins of a 6th-century BC temple
dedicated to the Greek god Apollo.
This is yet another reason why this
corner of Turkey, with its historic ties to
The spa forms the

heart of the hotel.
Local elements are
also incorporated,
with products made
from olive oil and rose
The Aegean region is rife

with olive trees
Greece and the Mediterranean, seems a

natural extension for the wellness chain.
Healthy living and eating is already
deeply ingrained in the culture here the
Mediterranean diet has long been lauded
for its health benets. Add to this the fresh
mountain and sea air and the expertise at
Canyon Ranch, and the pairing seems natural.
Ofcially opens on July 1; doubles from
AED 2,460; 0090-252-511 0051,
canyonranchdestinations.com/kaplankaya
WHERE TO STAY
BED-HOPPING WITH...
Dita Von Teese
The dancer, model and lingerie designer on romantic, whimsical boltholes
INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS
CALIFORNIA
MICHIGAN
Madonna Inn
My favourite place to stop when driving up the California

coast, theres no hotel more colourful and kitschy than this
one in San Luis Obispo. Each guest room is uniquely designed
with Sixties and Seventies Baroque furnishings. I love the
rooms with the big rock replaces, and the dramatic pink
and gold-gilt dining room never fails to delight. I eat breakfast
in the Austrian-themed coffee shop, where I usually buy a
giant pink-frosted cake to take with me.
Doubles from AED 900; 001-805-543 3000, madonnainn.com
Its one of the

last surviving
examples of
Dorothy Drapers
Hollywood
Regency style
The Dorchester
Grand Hotel
Located on beautiful Mackinac Island

in my home state of Michigan, a ban on
all motor vehicles means the only way
to get around is by horse-and-carriage
or bicycle. Uniformed coachmen pick
guests up in antique carriages, and
the hotels interior is one of the last
surviving examples of Dorothy Drapers
Hollywood Regency style.
001-800-3347 263, grandhotel.com
Sorensens
Tucked away on the eastern

edge of Hope Valley near
Lake Tahoe, Sorensens is
a charming little village
of antique log and cedar
cabins, each with its own
replace and kitchenette,
surrounded by forest and
high-mountain meadows.
Doubles from AED 460; 001530-694 2203, sorensensresort.com
SIERRA
NEVADA
LONDON
The Olivier Messel Suite is the height of theatrical

glamour. Inspired by Sleeping Beauty, in 1953 the
stage designer created a Hollywood Regencystyle wonderland with an ornate mirrored forest,
golden birds perched on twigs serving as door
handles and light xtures that resemble gilded
Edwardian bird cages. Its dreamy.
Doubles from AED 3,010; 0044-207-629 8888,
dorchestercollection.com
Rafes Singapore
I love historic hotels and this one epitomises the

romance of the Far East with an intoxicating
blend of luxury, history and colonial design.
Liveried Sikh doormen welcome you before you
step into the glamorous lobby with its grand
staircase. I once spent a week in a gorgeous
suite overlooking the lush, tropical garden.
Doubles from AED 2,240; 0065-6337 1886;
raffles.com/singapore
SINGAPORE
NO THANKS
Sleek, minimalist dcor, stark white walls
and overhead lighting are not for me. I
want to stay in hotels that feel sensual,
warm and poetic, with history and charm.
Ditas Crazy Show is on at Crazy Horse Paris from March 15-30. Her 12on12 vinyl compilation
album, Soundtrack For Seduction, and her beauty book, Your Beauty Mark, are out now.
T H E TA L E O F T H E H U N G R Y FA M I LY
sixsenses.com
Fo r r e s e r v a t i o n s : + 9 6 8 2 6 7 3 5 8 8 8
Fa c e b o o k . c o m / S i x S e n s e s Z i g h y B a y | Tw i t t e r. c o m / Z i g h y B a y
OUT OF THE ORDINARY
HO CHI MINH CITY
Stylish stays in
TASTE
OF ITALY
Check out and

in to the new
Reverie Saigon,
a lavish, Italiandesigned property
situated between
the 27th and
39th floors of
the Times Square
building, with
views of the
Saigon River
through floor-toceiling windows.
The 286-room
hotel houses an
Italian restaurant
R&J (named for
Romeo & Juliet),
an authentic
Cantonese finedining spot
and a 157ft bar.
thereverie
saigon.com
Location
Dcor
BOUTIQUE
COLONIAL
THE ALCOVE
LIBRARY HOTEL
HOTEL MAJESTIC
Beside
the Saigon River and near
B
historic
sites like Notre-Dame
h
Basilica
and Independence Palace
B
In the quiet Phu Nhuan

neighbourhood, close to
bustling Ben Thanh Market
A colonial building in French

Indochina
style, dating back to 1925,
I
with
wit intricate columns and arches
A European-style ve-storey
hotel with charming rooms that
are minimalist and timeless
Young intellectuals
Americans and Europeans interested in

history, sophisticated travellers with
a taste for grandeur
Rooms
The 26 homey rooms and suites come with

comfortable work spaces and plush sofas
175 elegant rooms and suites with carved

wooden furniture, stained-glass
windows, vintage telephones; some
with Saigon River views
Food &
Drink
Rooftop restaurant Bookmark offers a wide

selection of Vietnamese and Western dishes
try the vegetable spring rolls or burgers
with bacon and mushrooms
ms
Choose between European delicacies

at Serenade Restaurant or the fresh
seafood barbecue buffet at the
rrooftop Breeze Sky Bar
An extensive library
in the elegant lobby
houses hundreds of
books in English,
French and German
L
Live
piano music in the lobby bar,
where you can relax after a long trip
w
Late-night trafc jams can lead to delays

when returning from the city centre
The city-view rooms can get noisy

T
with street sounds
Free
Free
Clientele
Strengths
Weaknesses
Wi-Fi
Price
Contact
Doubles from AED 210
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh Street;

0084-8-6256 9966, alcovehotel.com.vn
1 Dong Khoi Street; 0084-8-3829 5517,

majesticsaigon.com
ROOM SERVICE
Vietnams historic capital, from homey boutique hotels to grand, colonial-style classics
CONTEMPORARY
TROPICAL
ICONIC
SHERATON SAIGON
HOTEL & TOWERS
AN LAM SAIGON RIVER
PARK HYATT SAIGON
On a quiet section of the Saigon River, a

15-minute boat ride from the city centre
At the citys cultural and historical heart,

near the Saigon Opera House
on Lam Son Square
A boutique property with natural wood

oors, bamboo accessories and spacious
terraces looking on to the river
A newly renovated ninestorey property with rooms

and suites showcasing elegant,
handcrafted details
Families and couples

seeking a relaxing retreat
A mature crowd of couples and

businesspeople
485 modern rooms with big windows

and conveniences such as a work desk,
docking station and phone equipped
for conference calls
19 luxurious villas; some spread over two

oors with a terrace, private pool and
outdoor rain shower
245 recently updated French colonialstyle rooms and suites with oak oors,
chandeliers and white marble bathrooms
Level 23 Signature Restaurant offers classics

such as the ve-spice braised lamb shank
and a mocha parfait for dessert
At the waterfront Luc Binh Restaurantt

and Bar, fresh salads are prepared
using local ingredients. Try the
signature passion fruit panna cotta
with pistachio sorbet
18 spacious meeting and events venues

spread over 2,500sqm
The An Lam Spa, for a Vietnamese, Swedish

or Indian massage in a tropical setting
The outdoor pool surrounded by a

lush garden is serene and timeless; Xuan
Spa offers traditional Vietnamese beauty
rituals like the Body Exfoliation treatment
with coconut and ginger
The hotel charges for internet; you have

to pre-book a table at Level 23 Signature
The secluded location means not all taxi

drivers are familiar with the property
Standard Rooms are a little small;

guests are not allowed to bring pets
AED 50 per day
Free
Free
Doubles from AED 1,028
Doubles from AED 1,220
88 Dong Khoi Street; 0084-8-3827 2828,

starwoodhotels.com/sheraton
21/4 Khu Pho Trung Street; 0084-650-378

5555, anlam.com
2 Lam Son Square; 0084-8-3824 1234,

saigon.park.hyatt.com
In the vibrant business and

entertainment district, near top
restaurants and corporate ofces
Twin 23-storey towers
T
iin glass and concrete,
with modern interiors
w
PHOTOS: CORBIS
Savvy business
Sa
travellers and executives
tra
Square One serves a business lunch

menu of local and Western dishes
try the Vietnamese bamboo
chicken; 2 Lam Son bar is popular
with local socialites
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
SEYCHELLES
FIESTA
Explore a melting pot of cultures at the
Carnaval International de Victoria
Victoria plays host to the
colourful carnival each year.
Above: Explore the natural
beauty of the Seychelles
he Seychelles is known for its beautiful people, rich history, great

culture and the exceptional diversity of its ora and fauna, and is ever
more vibrant during the annual Carnaval International de Victoria.
Celebrating the theme of national unity, this years event from April 22-24
brings together carnivals from around the world, with the Brazil carnival
team, Notting Hill Roadshow Company, Dsseldorf from Germany,
Kwazulu Natal and Cape Town Minstrels from South Africa and artistic
troupes from China parading the streets in the heart of the capital.
On Friday, April 22, the festivities kick off with an opening ceremony
attended by dignitaries from the Seychelles and other parts of the world, with
international and local artists performing in a vibrant and colourful show.
Saturday is the day of the carnival, where thousands of people line
the streets to witness the parade as it snakes through the small streets
and dancers move to the beats of sega, moutia, salsa and soca music.
Live performances, entertainment and food stalls are all over town,
and carnival-goers celebrate until late into the night.
The last day is the most relaxing, when children aged between ve
and 12 parade in the kiddies carnival in Freedom Square, dressed in
bright outts made from recycled materials, before the winners of the
oat competition are announced.
For more information visit seychelles.travel
Air Seychelles (airseychelles.com) ies direct from Abu Dhabi to the Seychelles
The Seychelles
more than just a dream
Known as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles is a sunny destination
with white sandy beaches, lapped by turquoise waters and clear blue skies.
Perfect for families enjoying a getaway holiday or to honeymooners strolling
the beach, this destination offers memorable holiday experience.
Air Seychelles and Etihad Airways offers double daily departures
from Abu Dhabi to the Seychelles
airseychelles.com | etihad.com
HM SEZ Advert 215x275mm_Conde.indd 1
25/02/2016 1:09 PM
SLUG
TRAVEL
IN STYLE
STYLE GUIDE HOW TO PACK HEIDI GOSMAN
The life exotic

I
Actor and designer Waris

Ahluwalia has spent years
seeking out old-world charms
hidden in far-ung corners of
the globe. Amid the colourful
grand haciendas of the Yucatn
Peninsula, he discovers a land
lost in time. LINDSAY TALBOT
goes along for the adventure
m meeting Waris Ahluwalia designer,

actor, businessman and professional bon
vivant somewhere in the middle of Mexico.
For the nearly four hours since I left Cancn
airport, its been an endless stretch of highway
against thick green jungle, interspersed
with only the occasional gas station, peeling
billboard or ofcial police checkpoint. As
signs for the city of Mrida, the tiny colonial
capital on the western tip of the Yucatn
Peninsula, begin to appear, we nally start to
slow, before turning off on to a bumpy byroad
where the jungle thins, revealing pink and
yellow churches, thatched huts and colourful
storefronts with hand-painted advertisements
for Coca-Cola and Corona.
PHOTOS: CHRISTOPHER WRAY-MCCANN, CORBIS
Waris Ahluwalia against the

stencilled walls of Hacienda
Santa Rosa. Opposite: One of the
swimming pools at the property
Pyramid of the Magician

at Uxmal, an ancient
Maya city. Left: The
arched veranda at
Hacienda Temozon
At the roads end is Hacienda Temozon

(doubles from AED 1,200; 0052-999-923 8089,
haciendatemozon.com), where shady arcades
and palm tree-lined lawns lead to a palatial
oxblood-red 17th-century estate. Once a cattle
ranch and a major manufacturer of henequen
(or sisal, which comes from agave plants), its
now a 28-room hotel, one of ve haciendas
in the region recently given new life by the
Luxury Collection hotel group. Here, I
wander past charming cobblestoned courtyards
and mirror-like swimming pools to nd that
the place is full of magical relics brightly
painted wooden trolleys that can still run
along their original narrow-gauge train tracks;
gleaming pieces of antique henequenprocessing machinery; mosaico tile oors.
A sign in a quiet grove points to the tennis
courts, a cenote (a deep natural pool in the
limestone bedrock), stables and walking trails.
It all feels a bit like a Wes Anderson set with
a tropical twist ttingly, considering that
Waris is something of a muse for Anderson,
appearing in four of his lms.
Born in the foothills of the Himalayas and
now based in New York, Waris spends much
of the year travelling to meet the craftsmen
and artisans who fabricate the exquisite
handmade objects malachite keepsake boxes
by Venetian goldsmiths and Mogul-themed
jewellery by enamellers in Jaipur, among
He travels to meet the

craftsmen and artisans
who fabricate the
exquisite objects that he
creates for his House of
Waris collection, sold
online and at the
Gritti Palace in Venice
them that he creates for his House of Waris
collection, which is sold online and at Rare,
his boutique at the Gritti Palace in Venice.
Recently, hes begun sourcing sisal goods
and silver ligree from an artisan cooperative
in Mrida called Fundacin Haciendas del
Mundo Maya, inspiring this visit to a corner
of Mexico known for its history of traditional
craftsmanship and Mayan techniques.
He invited a few friends along on the
trip including art director Sofa Sanchez
Barrenechea, designer Yigal Azroul, singer
Sophie Auster, entrepreneur Graham Hill and
his girlfriend, Sophie Oakley whom I meet
over cocktails in the main house at Hacienda
Temozon. Mezcal in hand, we wander the
maze of old-fashioned drawing rooms hung
with ancestral portraits and terraces with
majestic high-beamed ceilings: a bygone vision

of colonial-era Mexico one no longer nds in
Playa del Carmen and Puerto Vallarta. This
weekend isnt just about seeing the beauty of
this place; its about engaging with its people
and culture and history, Waris says, as we
linger on the breezy columned veranda over a
dinner of traditional dishes such as sopa de lima
and Yucatecan-style beef tenderloin.
The next morning, the whole group
heads to neighbouring Hacienda Santa Rosa
(doubles from AED 950; 0052-999-923 1923,
haciendasantarosa.com) a periwinkle-blue
noblemans mansion turned 11-room hotel
with plunge pools made of Mayan-style
chultunes (stone wells that once captured
and stored rainwater). Here, theres a group
of seven workshops, each focused on a
different technique including embroidery,
metalwork, ligree and henequen. Together,
its artisans have revived centuries-old
handicraft techniques like corchado spinning
and jipi-japa weaving, and we spend the
day braiding baskets, hammering silver and
cross-stitching linen with the 17 women who
run the co-op. Im fascinated by the idea of
craft as commerce, Waris says while looming
a hammock. The work I do with House of
Waris is about nding artisans to exchange
with directly, supporting them by selling their
pieces, giving them exposure and creating a
WARIS IN MEXICO
A pool at Hacienda Temozon.

Right: Dancers performing a
traditional jarana
Designs for House

of Waris being enamelled.
Right: Hacienda
Temozon's bright exterior
Singer Sophie Auster

in Mexico
new demand for their skills and lost artistry.

Its hard work but afterwards theres play.
The next 48 hours are one long adventure
an uncovering of the Yucatns little-known
hacienda route and ancient Mayan sites. One
night, we wander into Temozn Sur and hop a
wire fence to get into the towns weekly cumbia
dance party. We ride wooden trolleys drawn
along the tracks by Hacienda Temozons two
donkeys, Juan and Tobacco, to a remote cenote,
where we descend a 30-foot ladder for a swim.
We put on aprons and prepare the Mexican
braised-pork dish cochinita pibil, which is
wrapped in banana leaves and buried in the
earth for its six-hour roast. We travel with an
archaeologist to Uxmal, exploring its pyramid
and quadrangles. The faint scent of jacaranda,

bougainvillea and frangipani seems to follow
us wherever we go.
The retreat ends with a nal feast in
Hacienda Temozons casa de mquinas, where
we eat by candlelight alongside turn-of-thecentury henequen looms. An operatic tenor
sings, accompanied by violins and vihuelas;
hes followed by a mariachi band crooning
traditional songs. As they sing the joyous
anthem Viva Mxico! I notice that a slightly
solemn pall has fallen over the room and it
dawns on me that none of us will ever be quite
ready to leave. Waris feels the same way. It
always seems that the best trip of all, he says
wistfully, is the one that goes back in time.
BUCKET
LIST
Drawstring bags are ideal for slinging

over your shoulder while keeping
your stuff secure and in place
LUGGAGE
STYLE: SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR; WALLET,

BRACCIALINI; BAG CHARM, COACH; SUNGLASSES, VERSACE; SCARF,
HERMS; LOCATION: FRIOUL BISTRO DE LUXE, MADINAT JUMEIRAH
1 Small Emmanuelle Fringed Bucket Bag, AED 7,900, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane 2 Leather Bucket Bag, AED 3,400, Moschino
3 Kombo Bucket Bag, AED 2,230, Kenzo 4 Greenwich Bucket Bag, AED 1,650, Michael Kors 5 Alpha Bucket, AED 3,500, Alexander Wang
at Tryano 6 Vicki Patchwork DenimBucket Bag, AED 1,232, See by Chlo at net-a-porter.com 7 Chicas Backpack, AED 2,550, Braccialini
Classico Enamel,
AED 160,875,
Ulysse Nardin
Mtiers dArt Florilge China Limodoron,

AED 455,000,
Vacheron Constantin
STYLE: SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR
Villeret Damasquine,
AED 385,000,
Blancpain at Rivoli
WATCHES
L.U.C XP Urushi Bamboo,

AED 91,823, Chopard
Petite Heure Minute

Horses, AED 120,700,
Jaquet Droz at Rivoli
HM Flower Special Edition

- Orange Lily, AED 111,200,
Arnold & Son at Damas
MINI
MASTERPIECES
These timepieces with their hand-decorated faces might just bring

out your inner landscape artist on your next country escape
Succession Picasso 2016
Successi Mir / ADAGP, Paris, 2016
HOW TO PACK
ART EXPLORER
Communications specialist at Doha Fire Station - Artist In Residence and founder of fashion
and art blog Desert Mannequin, ANUM BASHIR on packing for a Mumbai minibreak
2
1
WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON; STYLE: SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR
he bustling
Indian city
is full of
inspiration
for Bashir, with
vibrant bazaars
and contemporary
galleries where she can
showcase her artsy
side. Embroidered
linen separates with
colourful tassles
reference the local
handicrafts and work
well for a day of
exploring the fabric
markets in Colaba
and homegrown
concept stores like
Bungalow 8 and Le
Mill. Bashir dresses up
jeans and comfy white
sneakers with a classic
white shirt and printed
silk scarf for galleryhopping through
Sakshi, Mirchandani +
Steinruecke, Project
88, Chatterjee & Lal
and Maskara, before
grabbing a bite at
Parsi caf Britannia
& Co. As the sun goes
down, she adds a
oral blazer to keep
the evening chill at bay
and slips into a pair
of heels for drinks at
The Bar Terminal and
Masala Library.
6
8
5
4
9
10
HOT TIP
1 Jacket, AED 8,550, Stella McCartney 2 Shirt, AED 129, Zara 3 Bag, AED 13,850,
Gucci 4 Top, AED 960, skirt, AED 910; both toile Isabel Marant at Boutique 1 5 Shoes,
AED 2,840, Bionda Castana at Level Shoe District 6 Jeans, AED 1,320, Alexander
Wang at Symphony 7 Shiseido Future Solution LX Universal Defense SPF50+ Daytime
Protective Cream, AED 404 8 Scarf, AED 1,620, Herms 9 Este Lauder Advanced
Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II, AED 424 10 Sneakers, AED 2,550,
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane
Pre-plan your
outts before you
travel, then fold and
pack them together
so its easy to pull out
entire looks when
you arrive
SECURE YOUR PLACE NOW AT CNILUXURY.COM
THE SHILLA 20-21 APRIL 2016

THE MOST SIGNIFICANT CONFERENCE FOR THE INDUSTRY
Influential luxury industry speakers will discuss: the power and influence of Korea;
travel retail opportunities; the younger consumer; the on-going convergence of
fashion and technology; and much, much more.
SPEAKERS INCLUDE:
ANYA HINDMARCH
CLAUS DIETRICH LAHRS
EVA CHEN
FOUNDER
ANYA HINDMARCH LTD
CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF

EXECUTIVE OFFICER,
HUGO BOSS AG
HEAD OF FASHION
PARTNERSHIPS,
INSTAGRAM
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

GIANNI VERSACE SPA
GIAN GIACOMO
FERRARIS
SEOHYUN LEE
SOPHIE HACKFORD
STEPHEN JONES
STEPHEN WEBSTER
STUART VEVERS
SUNG-JOO KIM
PRESIDENT AND CEO

SAMSUNG C&T
DIRECTOR
WIRED CONSULTING
& WIRED EDUCATION
FOUNDER
STEPHEN JONES
MILLINERY
FOUNDER AND
CREATIVE DIRECTOR,
STEPHEN WEBSTER LTD
EXECUTIVE CREATIVE
DIRECTOR,
COACH INC.
CHIEF VISIONARY
OFFICER,
MCM
JASON WU
OLIVIER ROUSTEING
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
WOMENSWEAR,
BOSS
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
BALMAIN
SEE THE FULL SPEAKER LIST AND FIND OUT MORE AT:
CNILuxury.com
@CNILuxury / @SuzyMenkesVogue / [email protected] / +44 20 7152 3472
SPONSORS INCLUDE:
TRAVEL ESSENTIAL
URBAN
NOMAD
WORDS: RHEA SARAN; STYLE: SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR; SCARF, EMILIO PUCCI; SUNGLASSES, PRADA; LOCATION: JUMEIRAH MINA ASALAM, DUBAI
Warning: This bag could

inspire wanderlust
CNT
Classic
Delta Bag,
AED 7,000, Montroi
ot all those who wander are lost, wrote JRR Tolkien,

echoing the philosophy behind new luggage brand
Montroi (named, aptly, for an old European port village
that was part of the Silk Route). Created to celebrate
nomadism to build cultural bridges, discover new places, people
and even elements of yourself Montroi is fashioned more as a
lifestyle than merely a luggage label. But as luggage goes, this is
some pretty stylish stuff. Designed in France, with parts made in
Spain and Italy, and headquartered in Dubai, the bags are a feat
of discreet, luxe craftsmanship ne leather chosen to age well,
thoughtful interior detailing and an understated logo. The debut

collection was inspired by Barcelona; the Delta weekend bag
(seen here in yellow) is designed for a quick escape from the
city though it would work just as well for a minibreak in it.
The details are key, like zippers that open all the way so theres
no rummaging around for things in semi-dark interiors. In
keeping with their wandering heritage, Montroi retails from
roving pop-ups around the world and online, and theyve
produced a small handful of city guides curated by fellow
nomads that highlight things off-the-beaten-path.
ARCHITECTURAL
GEMS
Make a statement in jewellery inspired by the worlds
most iconic cities, from Venice to Paris to New York
STYLE: VIBHA DANIA-DHAWAN; PHOTO: EFRAIM EVIDOR; PRICES AVAILABLE ON REQUEST
JEWELLERY
4
1 Empire Bracelet in 18k

white gold with 1.85k
diamonds, Ivanka Trump
at Bloomingdales Dubai
2 Archi Dior Collection
Diorama Earrings in 18k pink
gold with diamonds,
Dior Fine Jewellery
3 Paris Nouvelle Vague Ring
in 18k pink gold with
51 diamonds totalling
0.63k, Cartier
4 Palomas Venezia Luce
Drop Earrings in 18k gold,
Tiffany & Co.
5 Sous Le Signe du Lion Arty
Lion Cuff in 18k yellow gold,
Chanel Fine Jewellery
6 Divas Dream Necklace
in 18k white gold with pav
diamonds, Bulgari
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
SPA
HAVEN
Escape to a serene sanctuary

at Banyan Tree Seychelles
Every pool villa offers

breathtaking views
over the ocean
The property is nestled
on Intendance Bay
Take a dip in the

innity pool
eychelles is the perfect place to rejuvenate your mind, body and soul. And
the luxury all-pool villa retreat of Banyan Tree Seychelles is the place to
be for spa-lovers.
Having just launched their new Spa Sanctuary Pool Villas, guests can now
enjoy unlimited massages in the privacy of their beachfront villa with the
waves for company, or in the resorts award-winning spa high on the hillside
surrounded by birdsong. Upon arrival at their villa, couples are welcomed with
a calming foot bath, followed by a consultation with a therapist. Rejuvenating
therapies such as the Asian Blend, Island Dew, Lomi Lomi as well as Balinese,
Thai and Swedish massages are available every day to enjoy.
Situated on the scenic Intendance Bay along the south-west coastline of
Mah, Banyan Tree Seychelles is just 30 minutes from the International Airport.
Every one of its 60 luxuriously furnished villas comes with a private pool and
offers majestic views of the Indian Ocean.
A barefoot paradise, Banyan Tree Seychelles is a world-renowned haven for
spa acionados to recharge, relax or detox with a difference.
For more information, call 00248-438-3500 or visit banyantree.com
GROOMING
THE BEARD OIL
Beards have been big for a

while now but its essential
al to
keep it groomed. Tom Fords
rds
Conditioning Beard Oil comes
mes
in three sublime-smelling
scents: Oud Wood (sexy,
adventurer beard); Tobacco
co
Vanille (gentleman, dandy
y
beard); and Neroli Portono
no
a citrusy waft of the
Mediterranean. The lightweight
weight
oil softens bristles withoutt lleaving
i
a greasy residue and the classic
Tortoiseshell Comb is just the
ticket for smartening things up.
It works on wild eyebrows, too.
Tom Ford Conditioning Beard Oil,
AED 252; Tortoiseshell Comb, AED 175
IF YOU ONLY
PACK 4 THINGS...
The modern mans grooming essentials
WORDS: OLIVIA FALCON; PHOTO: ALAMY
THE FACE SERUM
THE ALL-BODY KIT
Cashmere ight socks, hand-poured candles, organic

picnics from Daylesfords farm. When it comes to
travelling in style, you cant beat the Bamford family.
This time theyve done the packing for you: the Bamford
Grooming Department Travel Set has a conditioning
shampoo, a pore-purging charcoal face wash, a skinplumping moisturiser and a zingy hand-and-body
wash. Its top-to-toe clean for a weekend escape.
Bamford Grooming Department Travel Set, AED 320 at mrporter.com
Serums have superpowers

that regular creams just dont
possess. When it comes to
moisturising parched skin,
serums go deeper, which
makes them a great choice for a
long-haul ight. They also have
more concentrated ingredients
than their counterparts. Acqua
di Parma Collezione Barbiere
Revitalizing Face Serum is full of
black-elderower oil that helps
de-puff skin; its a great post-shave
soother, too. Serums also leave
skin matte rather than girly-glowy,
so you can take care of your
complexion without having to
blow your cover.
Acqua di Parma Collezione Barbiere
Revitalizing Face Serum, AED 490
THE FRAGRANCE
Frdric Malle is an
immaculately suited
Frenchman and a creative
tour de force. He rebels
against the blandness of
commercial scents and
works with the worlds top
noses (those people who
can identify thousands of
different molecules in one
sniff), giving them carte
blanche to create exactly
what they want whatever
the budget. With this project,
Malle has put young-gun
perfumer Bruno Jovanovic
in the driving seat. Inspired
by the escapades of great
playboys of the past, such
as Gianni Agnelli and
Mark Birley, Frederic Malle
Monsieur has a huge hit of
patchouli expertly mixed
with some delicious rumbased notes. The essence
of alpha male, this scent is
not for the faint-hearted.
Frederic Malle Monsieur, AED 780
TRAVELLER PROMOTION
BRITISH
SPLENDOUR
Classic meets contemporary at
The Royal Horseguards Hotel
in the heart of London
he Royal Horseguards Hotel is situated on the banks of the River

Thames, opposite the famous London Eye and within easy reach
of the key business centres, tourist and cultural landmarks. The
hotel has maintained its essential British character, yet offers the latest
in state-of-the-art technology, boasting 282 bedrooms and suites, all
appointed with a 32in satellite plasma TV and iPod docking station with
surround sound, plus underoor heating in the bathrooms, sumptuous
soft furnishings like pure Egyptian cotton bed linen, and beautiful river
and city skyline views from many rooms.
Expect award-winning cuisine at One Twenty One Two Restaurant,
which recalls the hotels famous neighbour, Scotland Yard, and its equally
famous telephone number. Quintessentially British, make time for tea in
The Lounge; pick up the pace at Equus, a bar serving cocktails named
after renowned guests, from George Bernard Shaw to Winston Churchill;
or take time to enjoy al fresco dining on recently refurbished Terrace.
The Royal Horseguards Hotels dedicated meetings and events facility,
One Whitehall Place, adjacent to and connecting with the property, offers
palatial space, comfort and atmosphere. With its high ceilings, grand
marble staircase, glittering chandeliers and spectacular views over the River
Thames and the London Eye, its a magnicent setting for conferences,
weddings and events demanding a sense of opulence and theatre.
For more information, call 0044-207-451 0390 or visit theroyalhorseguards.com
The sophisticated lobby.

Above: The Victorianera faade welcomes
guests on arrival
TASTEMAKER
Lifes a beach
HEIDI GOSMAN, co-founder of beachwear
brand Heidi Klein, on creating a capsule

vacation wardrobe, her favourite resort
and bathing suit trends to watch for
What are the major swimwear
trends for this season?
There are many interesting trends for
2016. One I love is the plunging neckline
one-piece with halter straps to elongate the
silhouette, seen in our V-Bar Manda Island
One Piece. One-pieces are still on-trend as
theyre versatile, functional and attering to
all body shapes. Another trend is the highwaisted bikini bottom, a throw-back
to vintage glamour. Pair it with a skimpier
top for a feminine look that is both fun
and irty. Retro prints and the strapless
bandeau are also in style. Finally, theres
swimwear with long sleeves and with racer
backs for a sporty-chic look, like in our
Bridgehampton collection.
The ideal capsule wardrobe
for a beach break?
A perfect-tting bikini, a chic cover-up
or oversized shirt, a rafa hat, a pair of
espadrilles, an oversized beach bag and a
kaftan or maxi dress for the evening.
INTERVIEW: JENNY JOHNSON; PHOTO: CORBIS
Where do you nd inspiration for your

designs and prints?
I draw inspiration from everywhere; from
my many travels and from listening to
customer feedback. I attend the fashion
shows in London each season and look
back to past style icons such as Grace Kelly
and Jackie Onassis.
Whats the most glamorous destination
youve visited?
I return to the Amal Coast in Italy each
year. I went there on honeymoon in 2005
and instantly fell in love with its old-style
charm and elegance, the breathtaking
views, crystal-clear waters, subtle smell
of bougainvillea and the freshest grilled
sh ever. We stayed at the Hotel Santa
Caterina in a suite that had a stunning
sea-view terrace. We then went on to
the Capri Palace Hotel & Spa, where I
remember hours spent in the magnicent
pool. And for an absolute treat we have
more recently stayed at the Belmond Hotel
Splendido in Portono. We always rent
a yacht for the day to take us along the
coastline or to Capri, and go swimming
in secluded coves or stop off for lunch at
V-Bar Manda Island

One Piece, AED 1,099;
Bridgehampton One
Piece, AED 1,099,
both Heidi Klein
The port off the

island of Capri
I fell in love with the

Amalfi Coasts old-style
charm and elegance,
the breathtaking views,
crystal-clear waters and the
freshest grilled fish ever
one of our favourite restaurants, Da Adolfo,
a low-key nd on the tiny Laurito beach.
Tell us about being an ambassador
for LUX* in the Maldives.
Penny [Klein] and I were thrilled to be
chosen as ambassadors for LUX* South Ari
Atoll in the Maldives. Our Resort-Summer
16 collection was shot there and a selected
range from the collection is named after the
property, with coral ikat prints and designs
reecting the lush landscape and stunning
sunsets. The resort is exceptionally peaceful
and tranquil, and is one of the best spots for
snorkelling and whale-shark spotting. They
also have constant pop-up surprises for
guests like open-air cinemas on the beach

and hidden messages in bottles. I had an
over-water spa treatment in a hut complete
with a glass oor, so I could watch the sea
life drift by while enjoying a massage.
Whats a travel wardrobe essential?
I cant travel without my oversized white
shirt I wear it over bikinis during the day
and dress it up at night. Its a versatile
summer essential.
Oval Maidan, where Indias

love for cricket is on display
with many a pitch set up
MUMBAI
Its a place of great contrasts: Indias commercial
centre and the beating heart of Bollywood; a city of
locals and of immigrants, of gleaming high-rises and
crumbling heritage spots, of old and new co-existing
cheek to jowl. Founder of Mumbai-centric web
magazine The Daily Pao AMIT GURBAXANI helps
navigate the citys distinct neighbourhoods
PHOTOGRAPHER'S AGENCY: TAP | THE ARTISTS PROJECT; HAIR & MAKE-UP: MARCELO PEDROZO AT TOABH TALENTS; MODEL: BRIDGET MCMAHON AT
ANIMA CREATIVE MANAGEMENT; PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT: VIJIT GUPTA; STYLISTS ASSISTANT: JASLEEN MARWAH
Dress by Payal Pratap.

Shoes by Cline. Leather
wristband, earrings,
both by Dior
Photographed by MARTIN PRIHODA Styled by ANTARA MOTIWALA

m often asked why the

majority of the openings and
events we cover on thedailypao.
com are concentrated in the
southern and western parts of
the city. The answer is simple:
thats where 90 per cent of the
activity in the food and culture
scenes takes place. Twenty
years ago, most things happened
in south Mumbai. Today, theres
a gig of some kind almost every
night in Andheri West, a suburb
thats no longer considered the
back of beyond (well except by
a few myopic south Mumbai
snobs). Maybe in another 20
years, the under-represented
eastern side will have become so vibrant that
publications such as mine wont face false
accusations of bias against the burbs. For now,
for the purposes of this guide, Ive divided the
city into three broadly categorised geographic
regions. This is by no means a comprehensive
manual for Mumbai. It is instead a hand-picked
selection of the best places to eat, drink, shop
and see to get the most out of your visit.
SOUTH MUMBAI
Few can deny that South Bombay, abbreviated
to SoBo by those who dont know any better,
has lost some of its edge in the last few years.
The paucity of space and the pricey rents
have resulted in many new restaurateurs
shifting their focus further north. Yet town,
as its colloquially called, will never lose its
status as home to the citys poshest parts. The
neighbourhoods of Colaba, Fort, Kala Ghoda
and Churchgate make up both Mumbais
heritage and arts districts. Sure the trafc can
be trying, but at least its predictable and there
are large arcaded footpaths along which to
walk. Plus, it cant be beat for shopping.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Britannia & Co.
Theres typically a wait at this Parsi and Irani
food institution, which is only open during
lunch hours from Monday to Saturday. The
crowds dont come just for the berry pulav, salli
chicken and caramel custard but also to chat
with charming nonagenarian owner Boman
Kohinoor and for the kick of eating in the
company of cut-outs of William and Kate.
Entres from AED 16; 0091-22-2261 5264
Kala Ghoda Caf
The chefs salad, carrot cake and ham-andcheese sandwich are among our standard orders
at this minimalistic white and wood caf thats a
great alternative to mundane chains. Youll see
both hipsters and suits meeting over cups of
coffee, made with their in-house Indian blend.
Entres from AED 21; 0091-22-2263 3866, kgcafe.in
The Pantry
Clean design and clean avours are the
distinguishing features of this caf in Kala
Ghoda where the quiche Lorraine and croque
monsieur stand out among its French-style
fair, almost all of it made with domestic
ingredients. They host short-lm nights
on the last Friday of every month.
Entres from AED 18; 0091-22-2267 8901
Le15 Caf
In addition to the macaroons, cupcakes and
choux that have made Le15 proprietor Pooja
Dhingra the citys favourite pastry chef over
the last six years, her rst caf in Colaba offers
plated desserts and an all-day menu (with
dishes such as poached eggs with tomato sauce
on a crunchy Parmesan wafe) in a space
reminiscent of Paris, with colourful upholstery
by young fashion designer Masaba Gupta.
Cupcakes from AED 3; 0091-97-6934 1994,
le15.co.in
The Table
This award-winning American restaurant in
Colaba, the brainchild of foodie couple Gauri
Devidayal and Jay Yousuf and helmed by San
Francisco-born chef Alex Sanchez, has stayed
impressively consistent since it opened in
2011. We tend to make a meal out of their
small plates such as the boneless chicken
wings, lamb sliders and Swiss chard ravioli,
which like everything on the menu is prepared
with fresh produce grown at their farm in
nearby Alibaug. The buzzing communal table
is a convivial spot for solo diners.
Entres from AED 32; 0091-22-2282 5000,
thetable.in
Ziya
Mumbai-born, UK-based chef Vineet Bhatia,
best known for Londons Michelin-starred
Rasoi, opened this modern Indian restaurant
at The Oberoi, Mumbai in 2010. With it, he
expanded our ideas about our own cuisine and
blazed a trend that many establishments since
have tried hard to follow. Ziyas swish goldthemed dcor and dishes as rich and distinct
as Dilli chaat (a gourmet spin on a popular
street-side snack), a trio of melt-in-your-mouth
vegetarian galouti kebabs, grilled ginger-chilli
lobster and naans in unusual avours such as
saffron sesame have made it the preferred
spot for special occasions.
Entres from AED 80; 0091-22-6632 6210,
oberoihotels.com
Dome
We can think of few better ways to while
away an evening than sipping on a cocktail
at this rooftop bar at the InterContinental
Marine Drive, which remains one of the best
spots for viewing sunsets and the Queens
Necklace, the name given to the string of
street lights lining the curving stretch of seafacing road, from Churchgate to Chowpatty,
which sparkle as dusk falls.
Cocktails from AED 70; 0091-22-3987 9999,
ihg.com
The Local
You have to key in a password at the entrance
of this karaoke bar in Fort to get inside.
Fortunately, all you need to do to obtain the
code is ask nicely via their Facebook page.
On the other side are lip-smacking treasures
like the Portuguese Rechedo prawns, Goan
pork chorizo pao and cocktails made with
regional ingredients such as the Kokum
High and Masala Fizz.
Cocktails from AED 32; 0091-90-2950 5906
Royal Bombay Yacht Club
Of the citys clutch of colonial-era private clubs,
few have the grandeur of the Gothic-style
RBYC in Colaba. Youll need to befriend a
member to enter but you can thank them
by paying for drinks at the Dolphin bar,
where the walls are adorned with maritime
memorabilia and the drinks are as cheap as
at a dive. No shorts allowed.
rbyc.co.in
WHERE TO SHOP
Le Mill
Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Mary
Katrantzou and Stella McCartney are just
some of the international labels available
at this luxury boutique, which recently
relocated to Colaba. The store also showcases
new Indian talent like Shift by Nimish
Shah (a Vogue India Fashion Fund nalist)
and pashmina shawls and stoles by Janavi.
Jewellers to the maharajas, Gem Palace
occupies a 1,200sqft shop-within-a-shop space,
and tucked away around the corner is a private
styling studio manned by personal shoppers.
Dresses from AED 3,775; 0091-22-2204 1927,
lemillindia.com
Bombay Electric
This Colaba store, which focuses on Indian
designers, is where youll nd a range of hip,
edgy desi labels including 11.11, Bodice and
NorBlack NorWhite. Guys should check out
their in-house menswear brand GheeButters
line of soft cotton and linen shirts.
Shirts from AED 425; 0091-22-2287 6276,
bombayelectric.in
Bungalow 8
Jewellery label Misho is the newest addition
to the covetable collections inside this concept
store, which recently relocated from Fort to
a whitewashed space in Wankhede cricket
stadium at Churchgate. Under the eye of
creative director Maithili Ahluwalia, the store
Mumbais most iconic road,

Marine Drive, hugs the curving
coastline. In the evenings,
locals gather to hang out or
exercise by the sea
Dress by M Missoni.
Bag, bracelet; both
by Herms. Sandals
by Stuart Weitzman.
Necklace by Amrapali
Irani caf Britannia & Co.

is a Mumbai institution,
having been passed down
through generations of
the Kohinoor family
Top, skirt; both by
Anamika Khanna.
Shoes by Chanel.
Earrings by Amrapali
94 COND NAST TRAVELLER DECEMBER 2015
has earned a rm following not only for its

textiles, antiques and in-house labels but also
by being one of the rst places to provide a
platform to such designers as Anavila Misra.
Rings from AED 475; 0091-22-2281 9880,
bungaloweight.com
Sabyasachi
With its ornate chandeliers, decorative plates
and antique rugs, Kolkata designer Sabyasachi
Mukherjees palatial Kala Ghoda store is as
opulent as the bridal wear and jewellery on
display. A favourite with the Bollywood brigade,
his clothes can make anyone feel like royalty.
Dresses from AED 2,155; 0091-22-2204 4774
Ensemble
For three decades now, designer Tarun
Tahilianis boutique, which he runs with his
sister Tina, has retained its position as one of
the most popular spots for Indian occasion wear.
The multi-brand Ensemble, which has outposts
in Lion Gate, Kemps Corner and Bandra,
stocks all the biggest names (Rohit Bal, Manish
Malhotra) plus rising stars like Sanjay Garg
and his Raw Mango line.
Saris from AED 2,155; 0091-22-2642 0643,
ensembleindia.com
Curio Cottage
Over the years, Colabas Curio Cottage,
which has been around since 1971, shifted
its focus from silver to being a one-stop shop
for Indian jewellery. On offer are designs for
everything from a destination wedding to a
casual night out on the town.
Necklaces from AED 97; 0091-22-2202 2607,
curiocottageindia.com
Kitab Khana
This independent bookshop near Flora
Fountain has a commendable collection of
Mumbai books, a well-stocked childrens
section and titles in Hindi, Urdu, Gujarati and
Marathi. Check their events calendar for news
on book launches and literature-themed talks
that are held here almost every week.
Comic books from AED 3; 0091-22-6170 2276,
kitabkhana.in
Heritage tours
Guided walks of south Mumbais heritage
district are conducted by a handful of
companies with years of experience in the
business. Beyond Bombay and The Bombay
Heritage Walks are two tried and tested
organisations that conduct private tours in and
around Fort, Horniman Circle, Kala Ghoda
and Colaba and cover such major landmarks
as the Asiatic Society Library, Gateway of
India and Victoria Terminus.
Walks from AED 160; 0091-98-6776 4409,
beyondbombay.in
Walks from AED 200; 0091-22-2369 0992,
bombayheritagewalks.com
WHAT TO SEE & DO

Art Night Thursday
Most art galleries in Mumbai operate during
ofce hours on weekdays and are shut on
Sundays. Luckily, theres Art Night Thursday,
when over a dozen of them, in Colaba and
Fort, stay open until 9.30pm on the second
Thursday of every month. The list includes
Chatterjee and Lal, Gallery Maskara, Gallery
Beyond and Project 88, known for exhibiting
some of the countrys most cutting-edge
contemporary art.
mumbaigalleryweekend.com
National Centre for the Performing

Arts (NCPA)
Catching a play or music performance at this
Nariman Point cultural institution is an essential
Mumbai experience as is snacking on their cold
coffee and cheese-and-chutney sandwiches
during the interval. The annual roster of
events includes festivals devoted to literature,
theatre, stand-up comedy, Indian classical
dance as well as Hindustani classical, Western
classical, jazz and Su music.
Tickets from AED 11; 0091-22-2282 4567,
ncpamumbai.com
you browse shelves that are stacked with

colourful accessories such as kettles and cosies.
Kettles from AED 43; 0091-22-4002 0852,
aapkipasandtea.com
Gauri Devidayal and Alex

Sanchez of The Table,
where easy jazz and locally
sourced ingredients attract
a sophisticated crowd
Design Temple
The items at designer Divya Thakurs
home dcor store in Colaba are dened by a
contemporary, minimal aesthetic with just the
right amount of quirk. For something uniquely
Indian, get the Doodh coffee mugs and one
of their Parrot Diaries series of themed journals.
Mugs from AED 65; 0091-22-2282 1001,
designtemple.com
Filter
Tread carefully inside this Kala Ghoda design
store for you might just walk out with a bunch
of stuff you dont need but have to have. The
temptations include a range of slickly designed
notebooks, framed Indian textile labels from the
Forties and a small but eclectic mix of design
and music publications from around the world.
Notebooks from AED 15; 0091-22-2288 7070,
ltershop.in
San-Cha
Theres no seating inside this tea boutique
but theyll brew you a cup of any of their wide
selection of chai from across the country, while
Heritage walks of south

Mumbai usually include
Ballard Estate, which has
an old European feel
Dress, shoes;
both by Salvatore
Ferragamo. Necklace
by Amrapali
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu

Sangrahalaya
The erstwhile Prince of Wales Museum boasts
one of the best collections of Indian artefacts in
the country. Take the audio tour for an express
viewing of its many galleries, including those
dedicated to ancient sculptures and miniature
paintings. Be sure to visit the prints and
textiles galleries, recent additions to an everevolving institution.
Tickets from AED 22; 0091-22-2284 4484, csmvs.in
MIDTOWN
Most socially conscious Mumbaikars have
a love-hate relationship with Lower Parel,
the former hub of the citys erstwhile textile
district. When the mills shut and their owners
sold off large tracts of land to builders, they not
only deprived their former employees of fair
compensation but the entire city of wide open
spaces that it so desperately needs. Today, the
area is lined with glass-fronted high-rises lled
with advertising, nancial and media rms.
The large ofce crowd has, in turn, attracted a
sizeable number of F&B and entertainment
enterprises who have set up shop in and around
the neighbourhood. As a result, Lower Parel,
Worli and Mahalaxmi are now post-work
playgrounds dotted with restaurants, bars, live
gig venues and stores, at least a few of which are
aware of the legacy upon which they stand.
eye-catching, cave-like dcor and huge dessert

counter. Having sampled the entire menu over
the years, we can vouch for the eggs Benedict,
chicken wings, couscous upma, pesto pizza and
banana project sundae, to name just a few.
Entres from AED 35; 0091-22-4366 6666,
indigodeli.com
The Bombay Canteen
Over a year after it opened, The Bombay
Canteen helmed by US-based Indian
celebrity chef Floyd Cardoz is still the citys
busiest restaurant. The Art Deco windows,
vintage tiles, old advertising posters and retro
Bollywood playlist evoke a sense of nostalgia.
The menu, on the other hand, is made up of
contemporary twists on classic Indian dishes.
The must-try items include the arbi tuk, eggs
Kejriwal and pork vindaloo thepla tacos.
Entres from AED 20; 0091-22-4966 6666,
thebombaycanteen.com
Yuuka
Wasabi at the Taj got a hit of competition
when this modern Japanese restaurant, led by
chef Ting Yen from Bostons Oishii, opened in
2014 at what is now The St. Regis Mumbai.
Yens artistically constructed preparations,
such as the avocado tartare and Salmon on

Fire, taste as great as they look.
Entres from AED 67; 0091-22-6162 8422,
stregismumbai.com/yuuka
K&K
The letters stand for Kebabs and Kurries and
in addition to those eponymous items, this
north Indian restaurant at the ITC Grand
Central hotel in Parel also serves a smattering of
popular dishes from other restaurants under the
hospitality group, including the delectable
Dum Pukht lamb biryani and the famous
Bukhara black dal.
Entres from AED 60; 0091-22-2410 1010,
itchotels.in
WHERE TO SHOP
Good Earth
This 20-year-old home store retails products
with elegant Indian motifs while staying on
the right side of the thin line that separates
the chromatic from the kitschy. Their towels
and table linen make for excellent gifts. The
agship in Lower Parel is larger than the
outposts in Colaba and Juhu, and has a caf.
Cushions from AED 75; 0091-95-8299 9555,
goodearth.in

Aer
No matter where you sit at this all-white
al fresco bar, located on the 34th oor of the
Four Seasons in Worli, youll get a panoramic
view of the city. Get here in time for a
sundowner, to watch the sky change colours
and to see all of Mumbai, which looks prettiest
from above by night.
fourseasons.com
Caf Zoe
The New York-loft-style grungy industrial
aesthetic that made this Lower Parel caf and
bar so distinct when it opened in 2012 was
subsequently replicated across the city (so
much so that were starting to suspect exposed
brick is just a lazy way of avoiding a paint job).
Four years on, Caf Zoe is just as lively, owing
to the consistency of its food (we favour the
lling salads) and a vibe that works equally
well as a meeting spot during the day and a
drinking den at night.
cafezoe.in
Indigo Deli
This caf chain has six outposts but the one
inside Lower Parels luxurious Palladium
mall is the branch we frequent because of its
98 COND NAST TRAVELLER DECEMBER 2015
Pooja Dhingras moreish

macaroons and cupcakes
now retail in Colaba at
her new Le15 Caf
Lace trench coat
by Burberry
Celebrity chef Floyd

Cardozs Bombay Canteen
puts new twists on old
favourites and has become
one of midtowns hotspots
Dress by Philipp Plein.
Gladiator sandals by
Christian Louboutin.
Earrings by Baroque
by Bhavini Marwah
DECEMBER 2015 COND NAST TRAVELLER 99
Dress by Lanvin.
Jacket by Olivia
Dar. Shoes by
Chanel. Bag
by Valentino.
Earrings by
Amrapali
Concept store Le Mill stocks

international and India-based
designers. Right: A wall of
scarves at the store
Dress by
Saint Laurent by
Hedi Slimane.
Earrings by
Amrapali
Blue Frog is a live music space

inside an old mill compound.
Left: Chef Kelvin Cheungs
burrata at his new Bandra
spot One Street Over
Started 15 years ago by

restaurateur AD Singh, the
Mediterranean-inspired Olive
in Bandra still attracts the
citys glam set
Dress by Valentino.
Shoes by Cline.
Bag by Fendi
Palladium
Cosmetics chain Sephora is the newest addition
to this mall, where you can shop both highstreet and luxury brands ranging from Mango
and Zara to Michael Kors, Burberry and Gucci.
Vogues Fashions Night Out took place here last
September. In the neighbouring High Street
Phoenix shopping complex are movie theatres,
more cafs and bars, and a play area for kids.
0091-22-4333 9994; palladiummumbai.com
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Blue Frog
Warehouse meets opera house in the design
of the citys only truly legit live music venue,
located inside a former mill compound in
Lower Parel. Gigs are staged six nights a week
and range from indie rock and jazz-fusion to
EDM and retro pop.
Tickets from AED 20; 0091-22-6158 6158,
bluefrog.co.in
Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum
The citys rst museum, originally opened as
the Victoria & Albert in 1872, is a great place to
get a snapshot of Mumbais history. Among the
permanent exhibits at the Byculla institution
are old maps of the city and gurines of its
different communities.
Tickets from AED 5; 0091-22-2373 1234,
bdlmuseum.org
Matterden at The Deepak
This refurbished single-screen theatre in Lower
Parel, which shows Hollywood and world
cinema classics, is the closest thing we have
to an art house cinema. Because its a hidden
gem, its also your best bet for tickets for a new
release when all the multiplexes have sold out.
Tickets from AED 6; 0091-22-2492 3399,
matterden.com
WESTERN SUBURBS
Long gone are the days when the suburbs
(at least those on the western side) were
considered the poor cousins of south Mumbai.
Bandra, with its Portuguese-style villas and pub
capital status, has been the preferred residential
choice of lm-makers, musicians and artists for
many years. And with the ever-growing set of
expats also choosing to make it home, its only
gotten buzzier. More restaurants open in Bandra
than in any other part of the city, but Andheri,
which houses major TV and lm studios and
production units, is fast catching up. Its already
got the largest concentration of brewpubs.
In between stand Khar, Juhu and Vile Parle
where a vast majority of Bollywood stars reside.
What all this means is that if back in the day
SoBo folks joked that they needed a visa to go
beyond midtown, they are now zipping through
the Sea Link that connects town to the burbs
to get to where, increasingly, the partys at.

Olive Bar and Kitchen
The Mediterranean lounge-restaurants agship
Bandra outpost, which pioneered turning
Thursday night into a party night, has been a hit
with the citys pretty set for 15 years now. AD
Singh, the dapper man behind the juggernaut,
is perhaps the citys and dare we say, the
countrys most prolic restaurateur, with
outposts of Olive in several other Indian cities as
well as newer concepts including the Monkey
Bar gastropub, Asian-inspired Fatty Bao and the
Parsi-inuenced SodaBottleOpenerWala, and
plans to expand internationally.
Entres from AED 43; 0091-22-4340 8228,
olivebarandkitchen.com
Bombay Salad Co.
At this perpetually packed Bandra caf, you
can design your own salad by choosing from
their list of veggies, fruits, nuts, cheeses, meats
and dressings, or pick from the menu of cold
and warm options. Our favourite is the Ironman,
a comforting bowl of brown rice, broccoli,
onions and almonds.
Salads from AED 12; 0091-22-2600 0270
One Street Over
The food is expectedly the highlight of this
gastropub helmed by Chinese-Canadian chef
Kelvin Cheung, the culinary star whose last
stint was at Colaba restaurant Ellipsis. Here,
hes managed to make cauliower and
green beans into delicious bar snacks. The
vast bar menu features an impressive array
of house cocktails like the Kelvinator and
Spiced Moscow Mule.
Cocktails from AED 20, 0091-22-2600 2224
Elco Pani Puri Center
The story of how the proprietor of a roadside
stall in Bandra became successful enough
to open this two-level restaurant is the stuff
Mumbai legends are made of. Order streetfood staples such as ragda pattice, sev puri and
of course their signature pani puri.
Pani puri from AED 3; 0091-22-2645 7677,
elcocateringservices.com
Kofuku
You know a Japanese restaurant is doing
something right when its frequented by the
communitys expats. The sushi, sashimi and
ramen are all authentic and affordable, qualities
that are hard to nd together when seeking out
the cuisine in Mumbai.
Entres from AED 27; 0091-97-022 96812,
kofuku.in
La Folie Lab
Located in Bandra, the largest outpost of
the patisserie chain serves savouries until
8.30pm. These include what just might be
the best croissants in the city. The chocolate-
dominated choice of luscious desserts are,

sensibly, available throughout the day.
Croissants from AED 7; 0091-91-6793 7019,
lafolie.in
Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra
With dishes like the mushroom chai and
jalebi caviar, this progressive Indian
restaurant in the Bandra-Kurla Complex
could very well be Mumbais most Instagramfriendly establishment. Fortunately, the
avours match the air.
Entres from AED 35; 0091-22-6642 4142,
masalalibrary.co.in
The Yoga House
This popular yoga studio in Bandra runs a
vegetarian caf that serves salads, sandwiches
and sugar-free juices and desserts made with
whole cereal grains, seeds, nuts, vegetables and
fruits. In keeping with a yogic lifestyle, it closes
at the relatively early hour of 9.30pm.
Salads from AED 15; 0091-22-6554 5001,
yogahouse.in
Bonobo
Theres always an interesting conversation
to be had at Bonobo, where musicians,
designers, journalists and assorted creative types
congregate over craft hops, most regularly on
Fridays and Saturdays when the rooftop
Bandra bar hosts electronica gigs.
Cocktails from AED 27; 0091-22-2605 5050
Doolally Taproom
The Pune microbrewery has proved so popular
in its sister city that its opened two taprooms,
in Bandra and Andheri, within the span of a
year. The apple cider and oatmeal stout are
our personal picks of the perennially rotating
range of craft brews.
Hops from AED 15; 0091-98-2057 0311
Arola
Bollywood stars are among the regulars at the
JW Marriott Juhus Spanish restaurant,
spearheaded by Michelin-starred chef Sergi
Arola. The tasty tapas pair well with the cocktails.
Entres from AED 45, 0091-22-6693 3000,
marriott.com
Gajalee
They have many branches but weve found
that the fried bombil (a local sh also known
as Bombay duck, a signature of the city) and
sh curry are best enjoyed at the Vile Parle
agship of this seafood chain that has
expanded as far as Singapore.
Entres from AED 16; 0091-22-2616 6470,
gajalee.com
Gonguura
At this Andheri establishment, which
serves the cuisine of the south Indian state
Prithvi Theatre in Juhu

also comprises a caf,
bookshop and gallery,
making it a cultural hub
Dress by Rahul Mishra.
Shoes by Christian
Louboutin. Earrings
by Fendi
of Andhra Pradesh, the spice levels of the

home-style dishes on the all-vegetarian
menu are surprisingly moderate but without
compromising on avour, which youll nd
aplenty in the chutneys and dals.
Entres from AED 7; 0091-22-2623 3052
Gitikas Pakghor
The past couple of years has witnessed the
growth of home cooks hosting regular popup meals at their residences. Of these, the
most unusual offerings are those of Assamese
immigrant Gitika Saikia whose spreads can
include such delicacies as silkworm pupae
stir-fry, red ants cooked with hen eggs and pork
gravy with bhut jolokia, one of the hottest chillies
in the world. Follow the Gitikas Pakghor page
on Facebook for updates on her pop-ups.
gitika.me
WHERE TO SHOP
Atosa
This designer store tucked away in a lane in
Khar sells Fashion Week regulars like Abraham
and Thakore, Kallol Datta and Krishna Mehta.
Dresses from AED 540; 0091-22-2605 2509
Kulture Shop
Since it opened in early 2014, Bandras Kulture
Shop has more than lived up to its mandate to
showcase the best Indian graphic-design talent
from across the world. You can buy their work
here in the form of limited-edition T-shirts, art
prints, phone cases and notebooks.
T-shirts from AED 45; 0091-22-2655 0982,
kultureshop.in
O.M.O.
Comfy, boho-chic clothing is the speciality of
this long-running Bandra boutique where the
cotton dresses and trousers combine Western
cuts with Indian prints. They also stock a range
of cute kids clothes from Delhi brand Almirah.
Dresses from AED 110; 0091-22-2641 8140
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Leaping Windows
This comics and graphic novels library in
Andheri has an attached caf, where regulars
include lm and TV actors, writers and directors
living and working in the suburb.
Burgers from AED 15; 0091-97-6999 8972,
leapingwindows.com
Prithvi Theatre
Catching a play at this Juhu theatre (built in the
Seventies by Indian lm actor Shashi Kapoor
in honour of his father) should be part of every
Mumbai itinerary, particularly given the citys
well-respected and longstanding tradition of
stagecraft. Youll see just as much talent off
stage, at the caf where theatre-wallahs talk
shop over multiple rounds of chai.
Tickets from AED 9; 0091-22-2614 9546,
prithvitheatre.org
The Hive
Stand-up comedy and experimental theatre
is staged weekly at this performance venue
thats emerged as an incubator for upcoming
talent at their open mic nights.
Tickets from AED 11; 0091-96-1996 2969,
alivehive.org
Getting there
Air India (airindia.com), Emirates
(emirates.com), Etihad (etihad.com) and
Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) y
direct from the GCC to Mumbai
Rooftop lounge
bar Dome is a favourite
for sunset-viewing on
Marine Drive
Dress by Fendi.
Shoes by Salvatore
Ferragamo. Earrings,
necklace; both
by Amrapali
Where to stay
Top, sequinned vest;

both by Sabyasachi.
Necklace by Amrapali
LOCAL FLAVOUR
The Oberoi, Mumbai is an integral
part of the citys landscape
WORDS: RHEA SARAN
here are few places that give you as perfect

a sense of having arrived in this coastal
city as one of the ocean-facing suites
at The Oberoi, Mumbai. Standing at the
suites picture window, youll watch the
sun set in iridescent hues of pink and orange as local
Mumbaikars gather at the sea face to enjoy the cool
breeze or embark on an evening constitutional, blackand-yellow taxis shuddering by. Then dusk falls and
the street lights icker on all the way down Marine
Drive, creating a sparkling semicircular ring bordering
the curve of the coast, which youll have heard
referred to as the Queens Necklace. In that moment,
theres no doubt that youve arrived.
The Oberoi is one of Mumbais most storied
properties, one in which you have a feel of tradition
from certain hotel rituals, the impeccable service
and the buildings exterior which is clearly from
another era seamlessly melded with modernity,
seen in the rmly 21st-century amenities and interior
design details as well as in the cutting-edge dining
options. At Ziya, Michelin-starred London chef Vineet
Bhatias Mumbai outpost, familiar Indian avours
are reinterpreted and combined in ways even most
Indians havent seen before (the restaurant is on our
list of Mumbai must-dos, see p 92). At Vetro, Roman
chef Adriano Baldassarre recently revamped the
menu, putting a modern spin on Italian fare, including
a beautifully balanced burrata with asparagus.
Up in the rooms, ranged around an open courtyard
(great Instagram fodder, but be wary if you have
vertigo), the design is sleek and modern yet warm,
with plenty of glass, including between the spacious
bathroom with a standalone tub and separate
shower area and the bedroom, with a privacy screen
that can be lowered electronically. An iPod docking
station and a DVD player make leaving the room less
desirable assuming you can even tear yourself away
from the views. The Presidential Suite is adorned in
some serious art, including a life-size bronze statue,
and with the baby grand in the living room its the
perfect place to entertain.
A 24-hour spa means relaxation is a given around
the clock and the outdoor terrace pool is heated
though in Mumbai this is not typically a concern. In
keeping with its status as one of the grande dames
of the city, the hotel also organises heritage walks
around south Mumbai, with a private car to drive
you to the starting point.
Doubles from AED 1,150; 0091-22-6632 5757,
oberoihotels.com
Michelin-starred chef
Vineet Bhatia is behind
modern-Indian nedining restaurant Ziya at
The Oberoi, Mumbai
The roof terrace at

Hotel Julien. Opposite:
A monochrome
building in the city
On the
surface,
Antwerp
is quiet and
unassuming.
But the Belgian
city is smashing
up its diamonddealer image with a
new collection of
edgy hangouts and
designer digs, says
HAZEL LUBBOCK
Photographed by SIVAN ASKAYO
Michelin-starred
The Jane has a monthslong waiting list
s a fashion student in London

in the 2000s I knew Antwerp
to be an incubator of ideas.
Until the Eighties, the port
citys pattern-cutting block for
design had been set by Mary
Prijot, who headed up the new
fashion department at its Royal
Academy of Fine Arts in the
Sixties. Her style was strict
and uniform. Undergraduates
studied classical costume and
cut hemlines below the knee.
Then something curious happened: a group of students who came to
be known as the Antwerp Six rebelled and rewrote the rules. Drafting
their own unique looks by taking an individual approach to design, the
group, including Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Walter
Van Beirendonck, altered the fabric of Antwerp forever.
Far from shop-lined Meir, the street that roughly connects the train
station and cathedral, creatives continue to shape the city. When Van
Noten moved his atelier to Het Eilandje, a desolate area adjacent to
the red-light district around the docks, there was nothing but adult
shops. And while some say the neighbourhood has been up-andcoming for several years, its regeneration is really only happening
now. Modern-art galleries, multi-performance hubs (Het Bos is the
buzzed-about new arrival), grape bars and a handful of brasseries have
opened in old warehouses. The skyline has been transformed by the
red sandstone Tetris-block Museum aan de Stroom (MAS), devoted to
Twenties-style Dogma
Cocktails. Below: Caf and
micro-roastery Normo
everything Antwerp, and the funnel-shaped Red Star Line Museum.

To the north, Zaha Hadids diamond-inspired building for the Port
Authority has been polished up.
Nearby, on the edge of the River Scheldt, a giant curvaceous
concrete caterpillar a disused hangar for shipping containers is
the setting for the academys graduate fashion show every June. In
2014, Madeleine Coisne presented her Centers collection, for
which she was granted the Mode Museums annual MoMu Award
for creative vision and technical ability. Inspired by the criss-cross
tiles of Antwerps railway arches, the collection incorporates
geometric patterns with boxy Japanese shapes and rich colour in
a range of textiles. The magpie in me covets her fellow student
Raffaela Graspointners exquisite leather work (laser-cut rainbow
shapes, scalloped edges, sequin embroidery) and bold colourblocking similar to David Hockney paintings. The shipping
hangar is where concepts are realised, where careers begin. In
summer, it becomes an urban beach club for a young crowd to
let loose on the riverfront. Which couldnt be more tting.
The infrastructure here makes it easy for ideas to evolve: you
can reach most places on foot or bike around. London, Paris and
Amsterdam are all little more than an hour away. But Antwerp is
inexpensive, and that offers more opportunity for people to do
innovative things. In the eastern 2060 area, among Turkish grocery
shops and African hairdressers, is Atelier Solarshop, a concept store
owned by Pitro Celestina and fashion designer and academy graduate
Jan-Jan Van Essche. The space started as a design studio before the
pair began experimenting with various collaborations: art exhibitions,
pop-up vintage-furniture shops and a Sunday breakfast club with
food collective Otark Productions. Now it incorporates all these things,
including pieces from Van Essches own menswear label. There are a
lot of new initiatives happening outside of the mainstream and the city
centre. For example, club night Noord Feesjes throws underground
parties in existing venues in the area a Polish disco or a Moroccan
nightclub, says Celestina. You get an interesting mix of regulars and
young people out to discover new things.
In a city where a bottle of hops costs less than a bottle

of water, launching a cocktail bar may not seem like the
most solid business plan. Undeterred, 24-year-old Didier
Van den Broeck opened Dogma Cocktails in an unassuming
street in the Old City. Jazz music crackles over conversations
in Flemish, French and English, and worn leather sofas
give it the feel of a Twenties sitting room. Some say Van
den Broeck is crazy, mistaking his passion for madness.
Rents here are low, so setting up a bar is easy, he explains
over the rattle of ice as he mixes two Cobras Fangs for an
interior designer and his model girlfriend sitting at the bar.
Its persuading people to spend 12 or 15 on a cocktail
theyve never heard of thats tricky.
Hes not the only one to take a chance. Mixologist
Alexander Jones and chef Michal Timmermans are the duo
behind pop-up bar Jones. The 20-somethings serve g&ts
with top-notch tonic water and garnishes of ginger, cracked
peppercorns, samphire and edible owers, paired with
inventive sharing plates: foie gras with beetroot, elderberry
and coffee; crab salad with citrus jelly and sorrel; panna cotta
with lavender and marinated fennel. The pair also run new
bar-and-bites concept, Jones & Co. Then theres Normo, a
ramshackle micro-roastery and caf with a handful of tables
and brewing kit heaped haphazardly about. Students pile
in bang on 11am to get their cold-brew caffeine x, sharing
tables with bemused bricklayers on their coffee break.
A new generation of chefs are shaking up the restaurant
scene, too. In Berchem, The Jane is habaero-hot stuff with
a months-long waiting list to prove it. The old military chapel
has been punked up by Piet Boon with a PSLab chandelier
that looks like an upside-down sparkler, a giant neon Day
of the Dead skull and tattooed glass windows depicting
rams heads, pulled teeth, roses and demons. The devil is
in the detail, too, with surprising elements to be discovered
in every forkful. Plates become garden-beds for Thai-style
salmon tartare with deconstructed daffodils of courgette
ower, mushroom stamen and basil leaves. Theres a lively
paella of squid, clams, piquillo and artichoke vinaigrette. The
rhythm of the menu is slow and steady, with a dozen courses
presented over several hours by waiters in G-Star pinnies
who shake your hand and pour bubbly over peach mousse,
strawberries and granita for an apritif. If this is the church of
exceptional culinary art, then Im here to worship 30-year-old
chef Nick Bril and Sergio Herman, who closed his threeMichelin-starred Oud Sluis in the Netherlands to launch
The Jane in March of 2014. It was no surprise that it received
its own star within months of opening.
Unlike in other fashion cities, people do not dress up to
go out here. Antwerpeners have a clean and sober style, more
effortlessly condent than kooky. In rough-around-the-edges
Bato Batu bar there is no sense of trying to stand out or,
indeed, t into the crowd. Being in Antwerp is like being
in the home of a beloved family member, where you can
just be yourself, says stylist Pholoso. There is no pressure
to be somebody. Her Stylebook blog champions emerging
and established Belgian designers including Bruno Pieters,
former Dior creative director Raf Simons, Peter Pilotto,
Christian Wijnants, Been by DHeygere and Wanda Nylon.
Taking one of her tips, I bag a pair of Ann Demeulemeester
trousers for AED 400 at Labels Inc, a sort of high-end
jumble-sale store which sources samples directly from
designers. Among the treasure are heaps of AF Vandevorst,
Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann; all monochrome
tailoring and statement handbags.
A dish of slow-cooked
and deep-fried celeriac
skin at Veranda. Opposite:
Boutique property
Hotel Julien
Architecture and art in

Antwerp are as entwined now
as they were when Flanders
produced the Flemish
masters in the 15th century
Concept stores rst really came to Antwerp in 2007,
when, by coincidence, ve opened within a few months
of each other. My favourite, Graanmarkt 13, encompasses
a fashion and lifestyle shop, restaurant and art gallery,
with an apartment to rent above. Designed in the paredback style of Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen, each
oor of the townhouse has cool concrete surfaces, cleverly
concealed spaces-within-spaces and chalky accents. Its
impossible to see Graanmarkt 13 as anything other than
one entity. Guests in the apartment eat from the same
ceramic dishes as diners in the restaurant. You can buy
the fabulous Michal Verheyden chair in the master
bedroom. Paintings by a rotation of little-known artists
hang in the gallery and on the shop walls.
Architecture and art in Antwerp are as entwined now as they were

when Flanders produced the Flemish masters in the 15th century.
Antwerp is built from creativity thinkers, craftsmen with literal
waterways and walkways from another era of grandeur, says local
fashion journalist Kristopher Arden-Houser.
Todays artists may not be as well known as Rubens, but the scene
is spirited. Axel Vervoordts gallery in the Oude Koornmarkt is a good
place to start for the modern major players. Belgiums most inuential
collector, he has been the art worlds name to know since the Sixties.
He and his sons are currently developing Kanaal, an ambitious project
to form a new district alongside the Albert Canal, just outside the
city. Old warehouses and a chapel on the former distillery site will be
transformed, and new homes added in Cube blocks. At its heart will be
the Vervoordt Foundation Museum, housing an enormous collection
of works. For contemporary art, the Tim Van Laere Gallery has a lively
mix of names, including post-feminist painter Kati Heck and visual
artist Nicolas Provost. Ingrid Deusss gallery showcases photographers
such as Isabel Miquel Arques, whose book Portret Met Garnaalkroket
celebrates the scene with portraits of Belgian artists.
Most evenings, Graanmarkt 13s basement restaurant is lled
with the chatter of artists, actors and designers. People dont care
that Dries Van Noten might be eating at the next table, says owner
Ilse Cornelissens. Its always nice to see someone famous but not
really something people make a big thing out of. Antwerpeners
are by nature modest. Theirs is not a skyscraper city, always on the
move. Its calm. Theres space to grow, develop and with that,
creativity can be fostered.
The Recollection
interiors shop. Below:
Graanmarkt 13 boutique
SHAPE SHIFTERS
Antwerp was put on the fashion map when a
group of six students shunned the traditional
silhouettes favoured by the Royal Academy
of Fine Arts. Mavericks Ann Demeulemeester,
Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck (now
head of the schools fashion department),
Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee and Dirk Van
Saene changed the way Belgian fashion was
perceived when they showed their avant-garde
collections at London Fashion Week in 1986.
They opened up the scene for smaller cities and
less recognised schools previously snubbed by
the established fashion capitals.
Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com), Qatar Airways (qatarairways.
com) and Etihad (etihad.com) y direct to Brussels
from where its a 50-minute drive to Antwerp
Clockwise from left: The bathroom of The Apartment,

Graanmarkt 13; a display at Wouters & Hendrix jewellery
shop; furniture at Magazyn; design studio and store Helder
THE CITYS TOP 10 VISIONARIES

Centuries of radical thinkers have made this small place big on creativity
ABRAHAM ORTELIUS
Thought to be bonkers at
the time, the 16th-century
cartographer was the rst to
imagine that the continents had
once been joined. His Theatre
Of The World, a collection of
beautiful maps, is considered
the earliest atlas.
PETER PAUL RUBENS
Chubby naked women,
tigers, exotic fruit and silks:
Rubens paintings are rich in
colour and subject, depicting
scenes of excess. His Baroque
masterpieces, seen in buildings
such as the Cathedral of our
Lady, have inuenced artists
from Thomas Gainsborough
to Jenny Saville.
ANTHONY VAN DYCK
You could say that the sele
trend started in the 1600s with
van Dyck, best known for his
portraits, including those of
himself and Charles I. He

became court painter to the
English royal family after
studying under Rubens.
EUGEEN VAN MIEGHEM
Thrown out of Antwerps
academy for being too free
with his subject, the 19th-century
artist joined an anarchist group.
It was no bad thing: he went on
to become one of the citys most
recognised painters for his studies
of the docks. See his work at the
Red Star Line Museum.
LINDA LOPPA
Antwerps ModeMuseum
(MoMu) was conceived by
Loppa, who taught the Antwerp
Six, giving them the freedom
to experiment and ultimately
helping to launch their careers.
MoMu still raises the proles of
Belgian designers with exciting
exhibitions, including an annual
display of graduate collections.
LUC TUYMANS
Figurative painting was given a
new energy in the Eighties when
Tuymans was instrumental in
reinventing the genre, introducing
new form and techniques. He
captures horror and history in
a way that is both provocative
and challenging.
RAF SIMONS
Encouraged by Loppa, Simons
is a self-taught designer who
swapped a career in furniture
design for menswear and went
on to reinvent Dior after John
Gallianos departure. He still
runs his own label from his
Antwerp studio.
PETER DE POTTER
For his Angelic Starts work, the
digital artist downloaded pictures
posted on random Facebook
proles, added handwritten
words such as Refusal and
Monogamy and published them
on Tumblr. If anything will make

you think twice about putting
pictures of yourself online, its
knowing that de Potter could
nd them and use them as part
of his next series.
DEVON HALFNIGHT LEFLUFY
Opening Ceremony ordered
Halfnight LeFlufys rst collection
before he had even graduated.
His spring 16 collection has a
nostalgic narrative with references
to the Nineties rave, youth
subcultures and the internet era.
MANON KUNDIG
The technical skill in Kndigs
theatrical menswear is
astonishing. Her S/S 14 collection
featured collages of Google
images on acid-printed silks
wrapped around the models
entire bodies, even their faces.
The otherworldly gures were like
Doctor Who baddies with Red
Riding Hood scarves.
NEED TO KNOW: ANTWERP

WHERE TO STAY
Ilse Cornelissens and husband
Tim Van Geloven opened The
Apartment in the summer of
2014. The sunny terrace feels
Mediterranean and the interiors
are distinctly Scandi-slick.
Doubles from AED 5,190 per
night (sleeps six); 0032-33377991, graanmarkt13.be
More bed and coffee than
anything else, Room National
is perfectly placed for shopping
on Nationalestraat. The room to
book is all-white 01, designed by
sisters Vera and Violetta Pepa.
Doubles from AED 380; 0032473-73 5650, roomnational.com
Contemporary boutique Hotel
Julien has a busy bar, small
spa and fantastic views of the
cathedral from the roof terrace.
Doubles from AED 700;
0032-3229-0600,
www.hotel-julien.com

Chef Seppe Nobels makes
simple dishes with honey
from Graanmarkt 13s rooftop
beehives and vegetables
from the kitchen garden.

Entres from AED 100; 00323337-7991, graanmarkt13.be
winning classic cocktails at SIPS.

Cocktails from AED 40; 0032477-63 9152, sips-cocktails.com
at Labels Inc. Like a second-hand

store, only better.
0032-3232-6056, labelsinc.be
Eye-catching interiors and superb

cooking make The Jane the
hottest table in town.
Entres from AED 380; 00323808-4465, thejaneantwerp.com
Roastery, shop and caf Normo

serves drip-lter coffee and
cold brews to those who take
their beans seriously.
Coffee from AED 20;
normocofee.be
At Houben theres a tight edit of

designers including Christopher
Kane, Cline and Thom Browne.
0032-3225-0032,
houben-antwerp.be
Hip bakery Konditori supplies

The Apartment with Parisquality croissants, homemade
bread and cloud-light custardcream pastries.
Croissants from AED 5;
0032-3344-8293, konditori.be
Two-Michelin-starred tZilte
at the top of the MAS serves
some of the most sophisticated
food in town.
Entres from AED 270;
0032-3283-4040, tzilte.be
Korsakov Caf is the kind of

place where you might see a
local model hanging out because
her mates band is playing.
korsakovcafe.tumblr.com
Head to Dogma Cocktails for
cracking tiki-bar concoctions.
Cocktails from AED 50; 0032496-95 3377, dogmacocktails.be
WHERE TO SHOP
Sint-Felix Pakhuis was one of the

rst new-wave restaurants
to open in Het Eilandje.
Entres from AED 75; 00323203-0330, felixpakhuis.nu
At Graanmarkt 13 buy ceramics

and glassware from the
restaurant and The Apartment.
Fashion, too: Christian Wijnants
is a favourite label.
0032-3337-7992,
graanmarkt13.be
Manuel Wouters, who learnt his

trade on the QE2, mixes award-
Find pre-loved designer pieces

for a fraction of the original price
Ingenious blooms by Mark

Colle ll Baltimore Bloemen;
he does exciting things with
owers for Raf Simons, Dior
and Viktor & Rolf.
0032-3232-2838,
www.baltimorebloemen.be
Academy graduates Karin
Hendrix and Katrin Wouters
have an eponymous shop,
Wouters & Hendrix, where they
make fashion-forward jewellery
with unusual chicken-feet clasps
and jagged edges.
0032-3218-5445,
wouters-hendrix.com
Interior-design studio Helder
spills into a shop for sleek lamps,
handmade jewellery and tonguein-cheek embroidered badges.
0032-3289-4318, studiohelder.be
Antwerpeners have a clean and

sober style, more effortlessly
condent than kooky
Korsakov Caf is a relaxed

spot with live music
ON A
ROLL
Away from the obvious
hubbub, Costa Rica
likes to keep things
a little more lowkey. And with a wave
of design hotels, its
doing just that
Written by EMMA LOVE
Photographed by JENNY ZARINS
The Andaz vintage

VW hotel van. Opposite:
The beach at Florblanca
A surfer on Playa
Guiones in Guanacaste
The crowd is
unselfconsciously
cool. Gisele
Bndchen tied
the knot on the
beach here
herever you go in Costa Rica, the locals

talk about pura vida, the good life: the
beaches backed by mangroves and
towering palm trees; a landscape of lush
rainforests, hot rivers and mineral springs.
And then theres what the clued-in
crowd who follow the surfers get up
to: zip wiring and white-water rafting
through steep canyons; hiking along
cloud-ringed volcanoes; soaking up the yoga scene. Here we sniff out
the loveliest jungle hideaways and cool hotels.
Papagayo Peninsula
Life here revolves around the castaway-style beaches. There are 13
of them, not private (no beach in Costa Rica is) but mostly deserted,
apart from the odd pair of neat turtle tracks in the sand. An easy
20-minute drive from Liberia airport, this is where everyone eases
into a trip down the coast for a few sun-drenched, lazy days. Setting
out from Marina Papagayo (where the yacht belonging to Steve Jobs
family is berthed), a gang of us charter a blue and white wooden boat
and motor around the Papagayo Gulf. There are wiry trees, clumps
of cacti clinging to wrinkled rocks that look like elephant hide, and a
handful of plots earmarked for hotel construction as part of a government
project (it leases land to developers and regulates whats built). Fingers
crossed this unspoilt view wont change too much. We stop at Playa
Huevos (egg beach), where at low tide you can swim through a cave
to a second bay. Our timing is off so we cool down by splashing about
in the crystal-clear water, munching on watermelon. Blue jays swoop
down from the trees to nibble on our leftovers; the sand slowly turns
from white to grey, like a colour chart, as we go up the shore. On the
way back, we stop to watch a somersaulting manta ray; hes showing
off for an underwater temptress by launching himself in the air, ipping

over like a pancake and landing smack on his silver belly again and again.
Where to stay
A N D A Z PE N I N S U L A PA PA G AYO R E S OR T
The hottest hotel opening in Costa Rica since the Four Seasons
launched over a decade ago. Costa Rican architect Ronald Zrcher
designed both, but with the unexpectedly Modernist style of Andaz
he has come up trumps. Set seamlessly into the hillside above two
beaches are whelk-shaped public spaces and seven low-level concrete
blocks of rooms. Bamboo frames the oor-to-ceiling windows and
walkways. Inside, its all natural materials: wooden furniture, a huge
teardrop light inspired by a birds nest and a shower with a mosaic
pebble wall and sliding doors that open on to the balcony. But its
the other details that add the funky factor. Wooden carts by the two
pools form makeshift bars, painted with football emblems and stocked
with sugar cane spirit. Chao Pescao, the most fun of three restaurants,
feels like it could be a real, rocking neighbourhood joint. Have a
traditional breakfast of gallo pinto (rice and beans) and then head to
the spa where everything can be customised, from the ingredients
in your organic scrub to your post-treatment tea.
Doubles from AED 1,840; 00506-26-90 1234, papagayo.andaz.hyatt.com
Nosara
You have great elbows, says Jory Serota, the grinning Californian yoga
teacher, as I bend my arms and raise them toward the sky. Hes trying to
make me feel better, I think, because hes just said that I have a lazy left
arm (it doesnt swing to the same point as my right). This is small fry for
Serota who spent seven years working with US Open tennis players.
Now hes a visiting instructor at the Healing Centre of the Harmony
Hotel in Nosara. We go through a series of stretches; he watches, head
A colourful bedroom at
Rio Perdido. Right: A
Santa Teresa surf shop
Everyone lolls around the

kidney-bean shaped pool as
white-faced monkeys swing
from the nearby trees
The Bakery in hippy

Santa Teresa. Opposite:
The Harmony Hotel pool
waggling a lot, then makes minute adjustments to my poses, and by

the end of the session my left arm is somehow behaving itself and my
upper body feels much looser. Both yoga and surng are taken incredibly
seriously here. Yet despite being on a par with Oahus North Shore in
Hawaii as an international surng destination, it has a very chilled vibe.
Nothing much happens in Nosara town itself; most people head straight
to the beaches Nosara, Pelada and Guiones, a gently curling 6km bay
which is the best for catching waves. On the back roads behind it is the
Nosara Yoga Institute, a few low-key bars, restaurants, boutiques selling
exercise kit and a mini supermarket with a noticeboard lled with yers
for Pilates classes. As I stand on the coconut-strewn beach to watch the
pros practising for the National Surng Circuit competition, a lone man
sits cross-legged in the sand, meditating.
Where to stay
T HE HA R M O NY H OT E L
The Healing Centre and its excellent treatment programme are at the
heart of this laid-back place, just a ve-minute walk from Playa Guiones.
As well as the daily classes (yoga on the beach, vinyasa body dance),
there are one-off retreats, rst-class guest instructors and a vegetarian
juice bar with such a good reputation that health nuts from all around
pop in for lunch: heavenly goats cheese salads; mango, banana and ax
smoothies; pineapple bread. Dinner in the main restaurant isnt quite as
good. Everyone lolls around the kidney-bean shaped pool as white-faced
monkeys swing from the nearby trees. The hotel has a mix of bungalows
(they are the most private) and smart Cocos rooms with hessian
lamps, grey-and-white pinstripe curtains and rocking chairs on the
wooden decks. If youre up early to hit the waves, book in for a surfers
massage afterwards: a hard-core combination of deep-tissue and sports
techniques, it will unknot your upper body after all that paddling.
Doubles from AED 1,210; 00506-26-82 4114, harmonynosara.com
The airy Andaz lobby
Santa Teresa
By 7am the sun is white-hot and Santa Teresa beach is already humming.
There are dog walkers, bare-chested runners in tiny shorts and surfers
with straggly hair. A couple arrive with a surng instructor and wade into
the water. The boy is condent, jumping on to his board and easily riding
the small waves into the shallows; the girl less so, slipping off sideways
into the froth on her rst attempt. Surng is one of the main reasons
people head to this spot, not far from the southern tip of the Nicoya
Peninsula. It was once a shing village; now the road that runs parallel
to the beach has cute cafs and the odd fashion boutique dotted among
the surf shops. As I sit outside The Bakery in Playa Carmen sipping
fresh-mint lemonade, Bob Marleys Three Little Birds comes over
the speakers. It suits this vaguely hippy town, which feels like it has the
potential to morph into a less polished Tulum. Later, as the sun sets over
the Pacic in front and the moon rises above the mangroves behind, I
have my rst surf lesson. After an hour Ive managed to stand up only
twice on my board. Ive got red, sore knees because Ive smacked into
the seabed so many times, aching arms and the beginnings of a bruise
as big as my st on my right hip. But I feel as if Im starting to t in.
Where to stay
F LO R B L A N C A
This beachfront beauty put Santa Teresa on the map when it opened
11 years ago and is still the most sought-after place to bed down. To get
here, drive through the town until the road ends and all thats left is a
dirt track. Suddenly youre surrounded by jungle, with a sloping path to
the pool, restaurant and sand beyond. There are daily ashtanga classes
full of strapping surf dudes in an open-sided sala cooled by sea breezes,
a fully equipped Pilates studio upstairs, a lemon-scented spa (try the
coffee scrub) and villas with hammocks big enough for two, outdoor
bathrooms with powerful showers and four-poster beds. Villa 1 has the
A bungalow room at
Latitude 10. Below:
Santa Teresa is known
for its surng
best beach view but Villa 11, the honeymoon house, is

gorgeous. Borrow a bicycle to pop into town or a board to hit
the waves. At sunset, bag the swing seat by the water. The
crowd is unselfconsciously cool (Gisele Bndchen tied the
knot on the beach here a few years ago); the food (salads,
tuna burgers, sashimi) is fresh and organic and just part of
the sustainable vision thats so important here.
Villas from about AED 2,940; 00506-26-40 0232, orblanca.com
L ATI TU D E 1 0
Practically next door to Florblanca but with far fewer frills
(no classes or spa, less buzz), this ve-suite sanctuary is at
the furthest point of Santa Teresa beach. There are no keys
because your room built from almond wood, with folding
doors, a small deck at the front and an outside bathroom
has no glass in the window frames (this also means no aircon). Chattering howler monkeys are the 5am wake-up call;
a friendly cricket sits in the sink as you brush your teeth. Its
wonderfully simple: theres a canopied bed and desk in one
corner and driftwood hangers on a rope in the other. In the
small restaurant, the chef, who doubles as the waiter, cooks
chicken quesadillas and mahi-mahi with amazing garlicyucca mash on the stove behind the bar. And from the pool
a path leads to a couple of hammocks and sunbeds on the
sand. There are mostly couples in this quiet place, and you
wont see a soul about after 9.30pm.
Doubles from AED 995; 00506-83-09 2943, latitude10resort.com
Arenal
When Christopher Columbus landed in Limn on the
Caribbean coast in 1502, he thought hed struck gold. On
seeing the indigenous women wearing ornate necklaces, he
assumed the land would be full of treasure, so he named it
Costa Rica (rich coast). He was wrong about the precious
metal, but this country is rich in other ways: more than
25 per cent of its land is protected through national parks
and reserves, it has 10 per cent of the worlds buttery
population and there are 112 volcanoes, including Arenal
in the north, which looks like a murky witchs cauldron
bubbling over. Few travellers come to Costa Rica without
visiting a reserve. Corcovado National Park, further south,
is the biggest and where you might spot a jaguar if youre
lucky. But its the volcano and biodiversity that make the
12,000-hectare Arenal National Park stand out. On a 5km
walk through the rainforest here, my guide, Mainor, points
out hollow trumpet trees, umbrella-shaped ferns and a
thick walking palm that sways with fruit hanging from thin
vines like Rastafarian dreads. We stop to watch leaf-cutter
ants scurrying along a piece of bark. There are plants as
colourful as parrots, and electric-blue butteries that utter
past as we cross a hanging bridge and descend to a waterfall.
Afterwards, I swap the rainforest for Cao Negro Wildlife
Refuge in the north, where a soft-spoken youngster called
Jimmy with eagle eyes and expert knowledge takes me out
in his boat. We glide down the Fro River, past caymans
sunning themselves on rocks, to spot powder-blue herons,
yellow warblers and velvety green-and-orange pygmy
kingshers among the reeds. Its twitcher heaven.
Where to stay
N AYA RA S PRI N GS
Less than a 30-minute drive from Arenal volcano is this
outpost, a sister property to Nayara Hotel Spa & Gardens
next door. But once you cross the footbridge from the
Clockwise from top left: Carlota

the parrot at Nayara Springs;
the colourful sushi bar at the
hotel; fresh juices for breakfast
at the Andaz hotel; a daybed
at Nayara Springs
original hotel, everything feels more intimate; there are 16

villas (compared to 50). You can dip in and out of Nayara
but all you could want is here, including a steam room and
open-air yoga pavilion. Supper is at poolside Amor Loco
restaurant, which has a Moroccan vibe, with velvet-covered
sofas and a softly strumming guitarist. Feast on steamed
corvina sh wrapped in plantain leaves, followed by a
perfect chocolate souf. The lovely villas have four-poster
beds, vast bathrooms and decks with hot tubs lled from a
nearby natural spring. Staff are bubbly, service is sharp and
its all crazily colourful, from the public spaces with blue and
sun-yellow walls to Carlota, the magnicent resident macaw.
Villas from AED 2,390; 00506-24-79 1600, nayarasprings.com
Bagaces
Adrenalin junkies make a beeline for Ro Perdidos 240
hectares of forest to go canyoning, tubing, mountain-biking
(Paolo Montoya, the Costa Rican champion, comes here
to train in the dark) and hiking on trails that lead to hot
springs or along the Agua Caliente River. A 30-minute drive
north of the small town of Bagaces, through farmland and
down a bone-juddering track where clouds of dust billow
in the four-wheel drives wake, takes us to what feels like
the middle of nowhere. Im nervous as I get harnessed for
canyoning but theres no need to be: Im hooked instantly
and y through the air on zip lines that zigzag from one
side of the gorge to the other high above the milky blue
water. Theres a Tarzan swing, a wobbling bridge two
planks wide, metal rungs on the side of rocks to climb
up and then a nal zip line through the forest. That
evening, a handful of us clamber down to a natural pool.
Two lights are xed to the trees, theres a pitch-black sky
and as I oat in water as warm as a bath, a bat swoops low
over my head and out through the canyon.
Where to stay
R IO P E R DIDO
You dont expect to nd this kind of urban living in the
forest. The rooms at the adventure park are shipping
containers on stilts. Marked by a neon-yellow or turquoise
stripe hugging their middles, they have corrugated roofs,
concrete oors and brass-piping lights beside the kingsize beds on castors. Fresh, graphic touches chevronpatterned cushions, striped hammocks on the small deck
are contrasted with white corner sofas, rafa rugs and rope
wardrobe doors. A few minutes walk away, the restaurant
is in an award-winning building with views of the thermal
pools. It was originally designed to serve a buffet lunch to
the day visitors who ock here for the activities, so at night
it can lack atmosphere. Whats far nicer is to request supper
under the stars, either on the hanging bridge or the lanternlit platform overlooking the canyon.
Doubles from AED 1,010; 00506-26-73 3600, rioperdido.com
Emirates (emirates.com) and Qatar Airways

(qatarairways.com) y direct from the GCC to
New York from where Delta (delta.com) and JetBlue
(jetblue.com) y direct to Liberia. From Liberia its a
20-minute drive to Papagayo Peninsula, a 40-minute
drive to Bagaces, a two-hour drive to Nosara and
Arenal, and a three-hour drive to Santa Teresa
MAP: JOY GOSNEY
Getting there
On the road in Bagaces.

Opposite: The rooms are made
from shipping containers on
stilts at Rio Perdido
Get the look
BURBERRY PRORSUM S/S 16
CLINE S/S 16
Pack right for this months destinations
1
2
2
ANTWERP
Effortless cool is the vibe that best matches
this understated city, with a patterned shirt or
a structured jacket adding just enough edge
6
4
4
7
5
6
7
1 Jacket, AED 8,660, Alexander McQueen 2 Trousers, AED 1,200, Whistles

at Bloomingdales Dubai 3 Bag, AED 2,920, Anya Hindmarch at Tryano
4 Top, AED 190, COS 5 Shoes, AED 5,150, Salvatore Ferragamo 6 Scarf,
AED 1,500, Bulgari 7 Azzaro Pour Elle Extreme, AED 340
5
1 Jacket, AED 8,200, Pal Zileri 2 Sunglasses, AED 455, Barrel & Drum at
sivvi.com 3 Shirt, AED 1,028, Etro at farfetch.com 4 Bag, AED 1,900,
Coach 5 Shoes, AED 2,500, Santoni 6 Wallet, AED 1,035, Paul Smith
7 Trousers, AED 800, Hackett London
CANALI S/S 16
BOTTEGA VENETA S/S 16
WORDS: RHEA SARAN; STYLE: SALMA AWWAD; STYLISTS ASSISTANT: SHELLY MISTRY; PHOTOS: ALAMY, CORBIS
2
3
3
NEPAL
Give in to your bohemian side with

patchwork jackets and ower-power
bags while exploring this spiritual
spot in the Himalayas
4
7
5
6
5
1 Bag, AED 26,070, Fendi 2 Top, AED 115, Zara 3 Sunglasses, AED 1,750,
La Perla 4 Zipped pouch, AED 1,850, Charlotte Olympia 5 Shoes, AED 2,280,
Olgana Paris at Level Shoe District 6 Skirt, AED 2,400, Temperley London
at Symphony 7 Earrings, AED 1,260, Oscar de la Renta
1 Bag, AED 15,000, Dior Homme 2 Jacket, AED 3,612, Junya Watanabe at
mrporter.com 3 T-shirt, AED 149, H&M Studio 4 Trousers, AED 765, Ted Baker
5 Bracelet, AED 950, Tods 6 Shoes, AED 5,300, Berluti 7 Kiehls Magic Elixir
Hair Restructuring Concentrate, AED 84
SLUG
CONTEST
Where
are
you ?
WORDS: ROXY MIRSHAHI; PHOTO: BERNHARD LANG
his birds-eye view of geometrically

perfect parasols is reminiscent of
those Nineties Magic Eye illusions.
Look at it hard enough and you
might just see the colours morph into life
and take off. Each year at the end of April,
hundreds of kites in all manner of shapes
and sizes are own in the skies above this
beach, riding the warm air currents in a
vibrant show of aerial battles and acrobatics.
The air is laced with the scent of salt and
pinewood; the nearby sea is calm, waves
gently licking the shore. Legend has it that
in 1445 things werent quite as serene: there
was a sudden violent storm and the towns
bishop cast his episcopal ring into the sea to
calm it. An annual Sea Wedding festival has
been held ever since, where locals compete
in a shing-for-the-ring challenge in order to
bring good luck. This 9km-stretch of riviera
was once dubbed The City of Salt due to
its production of the stuff, which goes as
far back as the Etruscan civilisation. Today,
a few functioning saltpans remain in the
southern reaches of the regional park, and
a museum is dedicated to the areas harvest
of precious white gold. Where are you?
PRIZE
Email your answer identifying the town and
country where the photograph was taken
to [email protected] and you could win
a three-night stay for two at The St. Regis
Abu Dhabi. See overleaf for details and look
out for the answer in the May issue.
CONTEST
WIN A THREE-NIGHT STAY

FOR TWO AT THE
ST. REGIS ABU DHABI
Enjoy Italian cuisine at

Villa Toscana. Below: The
Al Hosen Suite is situated
on the 49th oor
WINNER:
JA N UA RY 2 0 1 6
The winner of Januarys Where
are you? competition is Suneel
George of Muscat who correctly
identied the location of the
picture as Huainan City, China.
He won a three-night stay for two
at Angsana Balaclava Mauritius
SLUG
CONTEST
Where
ar
e
you?
WALKE; PHOTO:
CORBIS
WORDS: CECILY
ocated in the heart of Abu Dhabi on

the Corniche, The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
is a modern interpretation of old-world
grandeur spanning the 33rd to 49th
oors of the twin Nation Towers. The 283
opulent rooms and suites offer captivating
views of the Arabian Gulf, while the Abu Dhabi
Suite is the ultimate indulgence with a doubleheight majlis suspended between the two
towers with a private spa, library and cinema.
The hotel is home to two swimming pools,
two exercise rooms, the Treasure Island
Childrens Club and the lavish 3,200sqm
Remde Spa, where guests can enjoy
customised treatments and Elemis facials.
Seven restaurants, bars and lounges
include Villa Toscana, serving hand-crafted
regional Italian specialties; Azura Panoramic
Lounge, specialising in Arabic fare and shisha
overlooking the Corniche; Cabana Beach
Bar & Grill, a picturesque beachfront bar
and restaurant located in the Nation Rivera
Beach Club; and Asia de Cuba, a stylish
Chino-Latino restaurant, bar and lounge.
The hotel is a business and social hub with
a 1,300sqm ballroom, ve function rooms
and an event lawn. The signature St. Regis
Butler can be called upon for any needs,
whether thats making reservations, pressing
or packing and unpacking.
To win a three-night stay for two at
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi in a Superior
Seaview Room including daily breakfast at
The Terrace on The Corniche, dinner for two
at Villa Toscana and a 90-minute couples
Remde Customised Massage, correctly
identify the location of this issues Where
are you? competition by March 31, 2016.
Reservations are subject to availability.
The prize is valid through March 31, 2017, is
non-transferable, cannot be redeemed for
cash and does not include public holidays.
Flights, transfers, mini bar and all other
expenses not stated in this prize are subject
to payment either on consumption or
departure. For more information call 009712-694 4444 or visit stregisabudhabi.com
his striking structure,

built in
2007, is considered
one of the
coolest designs
in this enormous
country. The idea
was conceived by
architectural students
at a nearby university.
Access to the main
body of the building
through the violin,
is
from where an escalator
lifts you to the grand
piano. There are
two
concert halls here,
which are used
by local
music colleges.
Its situated in a
city that
stands in the middle
reaches of a major
river and is famously
known as the town
of bean curd
although
the town has developedin recent years,
into a metropolis
with many skyscrapers
and shopping malls.
Reportedly, more
inventive architectural
projects are planned
for the city, including
a rumoured hotel
in the shape of
a table
tennis paddle. Where
are you?
PRIZE
Email your answer
identifying the city
and country where
the photograph
was
taken to contest@appgu
could win a three-night lf.com and you
stay for two at
Angsana Balaclava
Mauritius. See overleaf
for details and look
out for the answer
in
the March issue.
90 COND NAST
TRAVELLER JANUARY
2016
JANUARY 2016
COND NAST TRAVELLER
COMPETITION RULES 1. Entries for Cond Nast Travellers Where are you? competition should be sent via email to: [email protected] 2. Winners will be judged at the discretion of Cond Nast Traveller. The decision
of the judges will be nal and binding. No correspondence will be entertained. Only one correct answer will be registered per entrant per issue. 3. Each entry must arrive no later than March 31, 2016. Winners will be
contacted by email or telephone whenever possible. 4. The entries must be in English and complete in all respects. 5. Cond Nast Traveller is not responsible for late entries. Illegible or mechanically produced entries are
not eligible. Entries by text message are not eligible. 6. Prizes will not be transferred or exchanged for cash or any other item. No refunds or credits for changes or cancellations are allowed. All other expenses and costs,
which are not specied as being included in the prize, are the sole responsibility of the winner. 7. All prizes must be redeemed prior to the expiry date. 8. Taxes, if any, are the sole responsibility of the winner. 9. The Where
are you? competition is open to readers of Cond Nast Traveller aged 18 and over on the date of entry and who are ordinarily residents of the GCC. 10. Employees of Cond Nast Traveller (Arab Publishing Partners), ITP,
participating promotional agencies, contributors to Cond Nast Traveller, and the families of any of those above are not eligible to contest. 11. All entries to the Where are you? competition become the sole property of
Cond Nast Traveller and will not be acknowledged nor returned. 12. Entries become the property of Cond Nast Traveller and may be used for such purpose and in such media as the company deems t, without requiring
the participants prior permission. 13. Acceptance of the prize constitutes consent for the use of the winners name and likeness and those of his/her travelling companion for editorial, advertising and publicity purposes.
14. Cond Nast Traveller will not be liable for any loss, damage or expense incurred by a prize winner or by his/her travelling companion (for example, costs of repatriation) as a consequence of any party participating in
providing the prize becoming insolvent or entering into liquidation or bankruptcy. 15. Cond Nast Traveller reserves the right to amend any or all of the terms of this contest, or the prizes on offer, at any time without prior
notice. 16. Contestants, by entering the competition, agree to be bound by the above rules, terms and conditions.
91
COMING
NEXT
MONTH...
Family travel
special, including
Hong Kong
with kids
PLUS
PHOTO: CORBIS
Family villas
for fuss-free vacations
Overlooking Hong Kongs
Victoria Harbour
The best fish & chips

in Great Britain
ADVICE
The experts
Travel wisdom from those in the know
Climb up to the
rooftop of St Peters
Basilica in Rome
ABBOUD MALAK
RUE KOTHARI
KHALED EL MAYS
Principal, Studio M, Dubai
Fair director, Downtown Design, Dubai
Lead designer/founder, Atelier Khaled El Mays, Beirut
Los Angeles has a history of experimenting

with architecture, starting with the Case
Study Houses by the now-legendary Richard
Neutra, Pierre Koenig, Craig Elwood and the
like. Among the latest offerings is the very
photogenic Broad Museum in Downtown LA,
designed by world-renowned architecture
rm Diller Scodio + Renfro. The Broads
perforated faade has already become
Instagram fodder and houses some of the
modern art worlds most iconic works by Jeff
Koons, Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.
Not far from the Broad sits Frank Gehrys
Disney Concert Hall. With its complex web of
curvaceous stainless-steel panels, its home
to the Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra
and Los Angeles Master Chorale. The interior
walls and ceiling are nished in Douglas r
and the oors are made from authentic oak,
creating the perfect acoustical environment
and an inviting warmth and intimacy.
Denmarks inuence on design is

indisputable, and in the capital city,
Copenhagen, historic buildings hold their
own next to award-winning contemporary
structures. Theres a wealth of landmarks
by starchitects from Sir Norman Fosters
Elephant House at Copenhagen Zoo to
Zaha Hadids abstract extention of the
Ordrupgaard Art Museum and homegrown
architects like the Bjarke Ingels Group and
Henning Larsen are scripting their skyline
with an eye on sustainability, championing
natural elements. For a taste, visit the energyefcient National Aquarium, designed to
resemble a giant swell of water. Part of the
citys architectural charm lies in its mid20th-century aesthetic. Copenhagens
design renaissance in the Fifties and Sixties
saw debuts by the likes of Hans J. Wegner
and Arne Jacobsen, and their mark on the
city can still be seen today.
The architecture in Rome is not a hidden

treasure who hasnt seen a photo of St
Peters Basilica? but the true magic of this
building is not just the architecture visible
from the outside, or even the outstanding
interiors, but the experience and feelings
evoked by climbing to the top. The journey
starts like any other until you reach a point
where youre climbing stairs that are just 20in
wide, where the two walls on either side are
so close you are now part of the architecture
and feel almost trapped until you reach the
balcony where youre free. Galleria Borghese
in the Villa Borghese gardens is also one of
my favourite buildings in the Eternal City. We
live in a world where everything is becoming
so minimalist, on the verge of visual
boredom. Walking through this outstanding
building forces you to imagine domestic life
in these rooms and how daily life would have
been back in the 17th century.
PHOTO: ALAMY
Which citys architecture is worth travelling for?
STOCKISTS
PHOTO: MARTIN PRIHODA
FASHION
Alexander McQueen Dubai, 00971-4339 8760; Doha, 00974-4-413 5255;

Kuwait City, 00965-2-575 7739
Alexander Wang at Tryano:
Abu Dhabi, 800-879 266
Anamika Khanna anamikakhanna.in
Anya Hindmarch at Tryano:
Abu Dhabi, 800-879 266
Barrel & Drum at Sivvi: sivvi.com
Berluti at Level Shoe District:
Dubai, 00971-4-501 6965
Bionda Castana at Level Shoe
District: Dubai, 00971-4-501 6815
Braccialini Dubai, 00971-4-339 8400;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-259 7829
Bulgari Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-676
1414; Dubai, 00971-4-330 8834;
Doha, 00974-44-413 4568; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-299 6498; Jeddah,
00966-12-669 7229; Riyadh,
00966-11-460 2800
Burberry Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-667
1411; Dubai, 00971-4-339 8357; Doha,
00974-4-413 4551; Manama, 009731-753 0661; Kuwait City, 00965-2-220
0634; Jeddah, 00966-12-215 0264;
Riyadh, 00966-11-273 0790
Cline Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-412
4006; Dubai, 00971-4-341 0585;
Doha, 00974-4-413 4763; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-220 0582; Riyadh,
00966-11-464 9071
Chanel Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 1030;
Dubai, 00971-4-382 7100; Kuwait City,
00965-2-245 9290; Jeddah, 0096612-667 8436; Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2710
Charlotte Olympia Dubai, 009714-399 4122
Christian Louboutin Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-412 4030; Dubai, 009714-325 3935; Doha 00974-4-450
7004; Manama 00973-1-717 8076;
Kuwait City 00965-2-297 9011;
Jeddah 00966-12-261 0304;
Riyadh 00966-11-211 2819
Coach Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 3997;
Dubai, 00971-4-339 8670; Manama,
00973-1-758 1798; Kuwait City, 009652-530 9535; Jeddah, 00966-12-215
0669; Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2300
COS Dubai, 00971-4-419 0355;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-228 3032
Dior Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 7477;
Dubai, 00971-4-330 8739; Manama,
00973-1-753 4160; Kuwait City, 009652-297 9021; Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2452
Emilio Pucci at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-4341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455 8290;
Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
Etro at Farfetch: farfetch.com
Fendi Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681 3553;
Dubai, 00971-4-339 9782; Doha,
00974-4-460 0945; Manama, 009731-332 0505; Jeddah, 00966-12-284
2803; Riyadh, 00966-11-462 6098
Gucci Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
6844; Dubai, 00971-4-339 8953;
Doha, 00974-4-413 4612; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-530 9997; Riyadh,
00966-11-466 4703
Hackett London Abu Dhabi, 00971-2412 4045; Dubai, 00971-4-325 3237;
Doha, 00974-4-029 0224; Kuwait City,
00965-2-259 7909; Jeddah,
00966-12-660 7906; Riyadh,
00966-11-466 4703
Heidi Klein at Harvey Nichols:
Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888
Herms Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-575
9556; Dubai, 00971-4-351 1190;
Doha, 00974-6-601 1882; Manama,

00973-1-753 5519; Kuwait City,
00965-2-227 0215
H&M Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-695 8180;
Dubai, 00971-4-315 3681; Muscat,
00968-2230 0119; Manama, 00973-1756 4606; Kuwait City, 00965-2-228
3057; Jeddah, 00966-12-612 3594;
Riyadh, 00966-11-253 4801
Isabel Marant at Boutique 1:
Dubai, 00971-4-425 7888
Junya Watanabe at Mr Porter:
mrporter.com
Kenzo at Saks Fifth Avenue:
Dubai, 00971-4-501 2700; Manama,
00973-1-717 2000
La Perla at Net-A-Porter:
net-a-porter.com
Lanvin Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-677
1180; Dubai, 00971-4-330 8008;
Doha, 00974-4-413 4765; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-220 0590; Jeddah,
00966-12-661 2812; Riyadh, 0096611-288 5455
M Missoni Abu Dhabi, 00971-2626 2710; Dubai, 00971-4-324 5128;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-259 7642;
Jeddah, 00966-12-275 4619;
Michael Kors Abu Dhabi, 009712-412 4070; Dubai, 00971-4-325
3491; Manama, 00973-1-711 2724;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-205 6136;
Jeddah, 00966-12-275 3887;
Riyadh, 00966-11-273 4911
Montroi montroi.com
Moschino Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-676
7707; Dubai, 00971-4-339 8079;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-259 7657;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 1750;
Olgana Paris at Level Shoe District:
Dubai, 00971-4-501 6965
Olivia Dar oliviadar.com
Pal Zileri Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-626
6628; Dubai, 00971-4-339 9444;

Manama, 00973-1- 332 2233;
Jeddah, 00966-12-668 6927;
Riyadh, 00966-11-293 3789
Paul Smith Abu Dhabi, 00971-2412 4000; Dubai, 00971-4-395 1410;

Doha, 00974-4-407 7153; Manama,
00973-1-717 9564; Kuwait City,
00965-2-259 7801;
Payal Pratap payalpratap.com
Philipp Plein Dubai, 00971-4-339
8262; Doha, 00974-4-411 1245
Prada Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-491 9287;
Dubai, 00971-4-501 6990; Doha,
00974-4-464 4908; Kuwait City,
00965-2-530 9782
Rahul Mishra at Saks Fifth Avenue:
Dubai, 00971-4-501 2700; Manama,
00973-1-717 2000
Rivieras at NEO: oneandonlyresorts.com
Sabyasachi sabyasachi.com
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane Abu
Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6994; Dubai,
00971-4-341 0113; Kuwait City, 009652-530 9777
Salvatore Ferragamo Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-665 5481; Dubai, 009714-341 1022; Manama, 00973-1-717
8535; Kuwait City, 00965-2-530
9677; Jeddah, 00966-12-215 0883;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 1050
Santoni at Level Shoe District:
Dubai, 00971-4-501 6888
See by Chlo at Net-A-Porter:
net-a-porter.com
Stella McCartney Dubai, 00971-4339 9179; Doha, 00974-4-443 6959;
Kuwait City, 00965-2-571 7072
Stuart Weitzman Dubai, 00971-4-501
WHERE TO BUY
The Gem Palace at

Le Mill in Mumbai
Dress by Lanvin. Shoes,
clutch; both by Chanel.
Earrings by Amrapali
6645; Doha, 00974-4-407 7151
Ted Baker Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
4711; Dubai, 00971-4-434 0623; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-530 9979; Riyadh,
00966-11-240 2974
Temperley London at Symphony:
bysymphony.com
Valentino Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
6025; Dubai, 00971-4-339 8347;
Manama, 00973-1-713 1458; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-220 0654; Jeddah,
00966-12-261 1660
Versace Dubai, 00971-4-339 8285;
Doha, 00974-4-447 7333; Manama,
00973-1-753 6663; Riyadh, 00966-11419 6096
Whistles at Bloomingdales: Dubai,
00971-4-350 5333
Zara Dubai, 00971-4-330 8567;
Muscat, 00968-24-55 8867; Manama,
00973-1-717 2333; Kuwait City, 009652-224 4567; Jeddah, 00966-12-612
2983; Riyadh, 00966-11-253 6637
BEAUTY
Acqua di Parma at Harvey Nichols:

Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888; Kuwait City,
00965-2-228 3008; Riyadh, 0096611-273 4444
Azzaro at Paris Gallery: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 6662; Dubai, 00971-4330 8289; Manama, 00973-1-717 8582
Bamford at Mr Porter: mrporter.com
Este Lauder at Paris Gallery: Abu
Dhabi, 00971-2-681 6662; Dubai,
00971-4-330 8289; Manama, 009731-717 8582
Frdric Malle at Harvey Nichols:
Dubai, 00971-4-409 8888
Kiehls Dubai, 00971-4-330 8843
Net-A-Porter at net-a-porter.com
Shiseido at Paris Gallery: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 6662; Dubai, 00971-4330 8289
Tom Ford at Harvey Nichols: Dubai,
00971-4-409 8888; Kuwait City,
00965-2-228 3008; Riyadh,
00966-11-273 4444
WATCHES & JEWELLERY
Amrapali tribebyamrapali.com
Arnold & Son at Damas: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3770; Dubai, 00971-4347 9663; Muscat, 00968-24-69
2280; Doha, 00974-4-467 7200;
Manama, 00973-1-755 6013; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-530 9584; Riyadh,
00966-11-403 4658
Baroque by Bhavini Marwah
omanajewellery.com
Blancpain at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-4341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455 8290;
Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
Cartier Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-491 9716;
Dubai, 00971-4-434 0434; Doha,
00974-4-450 7798; Kuwait City,
00965-2-530 9656; Jeddah, 0096612-660 0720
Chopard Dubai, 00971-4-339 8333;
Manama, 00973-1-752 0088; Kuwait
City, 00965-2-220 0772; Riyadh,
00966-11-281 5300
Ivanka Trump at Bloomingdales:
Dubai, 00971-4-350 5333
Jaquet Droz at Rivoli: Abu Dhabi,
00971-2-681 3035; Dubai, 00971-4341 3121; Muscat, 00968-2-455 8290;
Doha, 00974-4-479 0107
Oscar de la Renta Dubai, 00971-4-339
9005; Riyadh, 00966-11-462 5644
Tiffany & Co. Abu Dhabi, 00971-2-681
4477; Dubai, 00971-4-341 0655; Doha,
00974-4-413 4976; Manama, 009731-753 1616; Kuwait City, 00965-2-220
0822; Jeddah, 00966-12-275 4701;
Riyadh, 00966-11-211 2444
Tods Dubai, 00971-4-341 3033;
Doha, 00974-4-413 4937;
Manama, 00973-1-713 1090;
Jeddah, 00966-12-284 2862;
Riyadh, 00966-11-293 9440
Ulysse Nardin Dubai, 00971-4434 1421
Vacheron Constantin Dubai,
00971-4-222 1222; Riyadh,
00966-11-462 1162
SHEIKHA LATEEFA BINT MAKTOUM

ABDULLA AL AWADI
ANJALI SRINIVASAN
ETQAAN
DIMA AYAD
JAFAR DAJANI
KHALED EL MAYS
KHALID SHAFAR
LATIFA SAEED
MARWAN SAHMARANI
MARWAN SHAKARCHI
VICK VANLIAN
TAHER ASAD -BAKHTIARI
sponsored by
Hello Ad 275x430 V4 indd 1-2
ww
under the patronage of
HER HIGHNESS SHEIKHA

L AT I FA B I N T M O H A M M E D
BIN R ASHID AL M AKTOUM
Vice Chairman, Dubai Culture & Arts Authority
one
of a
Kind
March
The Annex
Burj Khalifa
Level 11
A charity design
exhibition and
auction showcasing
the finest creative
talents of the Middle
East and supporting
Dubai Cares
THE INTERNATIONAL DESIGN

AUTHORITY CELEBRATES ONE
YEAR IN THE MIDDLE EAST
2/25/16 1:03 PM
MOST WANTED
A look at what caught our eye this month, from authentic eateries to exotic escapes
Royal escape
Al Faisaliah Suites is the only

dedicated suites hotel in Riyadh,
Saudi Arabia, and is suited to both
business and leisure guests. Of the
106 suites, the spacious Deluxe
Suites offer sweeping views of
the city and elegant dcor, while
the Royal Penthouse Suite spans
575sqm across two oors and
offers guests personalised cuisine
prepared by a dedicated chef and
access to a private rooftop tennis
court and a wellness studio. Book
in for a rejuvenating spa treatment
at the award-winning Al Faisaliah
Spa by ESPA, before ending the
day with a gourmet dining
experience at the signature Globe
restaurant. Enjoy 20 per cent off
the best available rate with the
Suite Sensation promotion
including complimentary Wi-Fi,
24-hour butler service, valet
parking, tickets to the Globe
experience and late check-out.
Doubles from AED 2,940; 00966-11273 2000, alfaisaliahhotels.com
Island bliss
Spend the Easter holiday lounging on the pristine beach or in your private plunge
pool at Rafes Praslin, Seychelles. The tropical resort offers a wide range of
activities for the entire family. Leave your little ones at The Sugar Palm Kids Club
where they will be entertained with fun activities like an Easter Bunny special
appearance, an egg hunt and egg-painting competition. Parents can relax at the
award-winning Rafes Spa, explore the Indian Ocean by snorkelling, kayaking
and paddle boarding, or discover the neighbouring Curieuse Island. End the day
with an authentic Seychellois culinary experience at Losean restaurant.
Doubles from AED 3,735; 00248-429 6000, raffles.com/praslin
Taste of Beirut
Savour authentic Lebanese cuisine by executive

chef Ghassan Khattar at Zaytinya in Abu Dhabis
Al Seef Village Mall. Culinary creations like the
chargrilled Gulf jumbo prawns, kofta kebabs and
assorted baklava are made using high-quality locally
sourced ingredients, while the sophisticated dcor
is inspired by the Middle East.
00971-2-447 4489, zaytinya.ae
MOST WANTED
Nile cruising
Sailing between Egypts cultural towns of

Aswan and Luxor, The Oberoi Philae luxury
Nile cruiser allows guests an opportunity
to discover and explore 5,000 years of
Egyptian culture and heritage from a distinct
viewpoint. On-board facilities include a
state-of-the-art movie theatre, 24-hour
gym and The Oberoi Spa and beauty salon.
Passengers can enjoy freshly prepared
international cuisine at the Main Restaurant
or Poolside Restaurant, and wind down at
the sophisticated Bar and Cigar Lounge.
Large windows in all 22 spacious cabins and
suites offer uninterrupted views.
oberoihotels.com
Bright lights, big city

Explore the Big Apple in style with Elegant Resorts
Culture & Couture package at The Ritz-Carlton, New York
Central Park. The four-night stay in a Park View Room
includes a 60-minute in-room couples massage, two
tickets to the Metropolitan Museum, an AED 1,840
Bergdorf Goodman gift certicate, four hours of
personal shopping with an Elegant Resorts personal
shopper and a four-hour private guided city tour, plus
Emirates ights and private car transfers.
AED 22,945 per person (valid until December 15);
800 3570 2891, elegantresorts.ae
La dolce vita
Set in the heart of Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), Cipriani recently
launched its rst venue in the city, serving classic Italian fare like baked
tagliolini and calfs liver alla Veneziana, and desserts like the decadent torta di
cioccolato. The two-level interior has a nautical feel, with large linen curtains
and brown leather chairs. Opt for al fresco dining on the outdoor terrace or sip
on a cocktail at Socialista, a private lounge tucked away in the back.
00971-4-347 0003, cipriani.com
Desert romance
Escape with your loved one to the romantic Dunes by Al

Nahda, just over an hours drive from Muscat International
Airport in Oman. Indulge in a traditional Cleopatra-inspired
hammam, an ancient Egyptian-inspired hot sand treatment
or soak like royalty in a special milk bath, adorned with
rose petals, before enjoying a private dinner on the dunes
in a tent setting. Active couples can choose from activities
like bike riding, kite ying, golng and creative sandcastlemaking sessions, before watching the sun set from the top
of a dune. With the enigmatic sands of Wadi Al Abiyad and
the starry skies as a backdrop, the setting is unforgettable.
Doubles from AED 1,840; 00968-9723 5700,
dunesbyalnahda.com
Room with a view

URUGUAY BAHIA VIK JOS IGNACIO
WORDS: RHEA SARAN
Marcelo Legrands work

is distinguished by the
energy, strength and
passion it conveys
TITANIO BUNGALOW
Sunsets are legendary at this resort facing due west toward the
southern Atlantic Ocean and skirting the sands of Playa Mansa in Jos
Ignacio, once a quiet shing village now a playground for models,
actors and seekers of barefoot luxury. You could watch the sun dip
right from the porch of this two-suite bungalow, one of 11 stand-alone
residences scattered through 10 acres of dunes. The living room is
named for Uruguayan artist Marcelo Legrand, whose eye-catching
abstract work is displayed across the walls; each suite at the resort
houses a site-specic commission by a contemporary Uruguayan

artist, illustrating long-time collectors and Vik Retreat creators
Alexander and Carrie Viks passion for art and making every
residential area unique. Mingling in the public spaces is not unusual,
with a game room, restaurant and multiple ocean-facing pools at
which to run into the stylish crowd who frequent this spot.
Suites from AED 2,340; 00598-95-44 4451, bahiavik.com
PART BEAUTY.
PART BRILLIANCE.
PURE BLISS.
The H Resort - Home to a collection
of experiences infused with
Seychellois heritage
The H Resort Beau Vallon Beach, Seychelles,

Bel Ombre Road, Mah, PO Box 1626
Tel: +248 438 7000 E-mail: [email protected]
www.seychelles.h-hotel.com
TO BREAK THE RULES,

YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.
THE VALLE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,

UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE
HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF
LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE
SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE
YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH
THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL
TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO
CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF
FINE WATCHMAKING.
Arabic Ad
ROYAL OAK
CHRONOGRAPH
IN YELLOW GOLD
English Ad
09301_1602_YELLOW_GOLD_CONDE_NAST_TRAVELLER_215X275_ENG.indd 1
10/02/2016 16:28

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CONDE NAST 43CMX27 5CM DPS K ENG indd All Pages

Now Open in Dubai Mall

DINING REDEFINED BY THE GALLERIA.

Your Premier Shopping & Dining Destination

For the sea breeze

Dubais most romantic beach resort

2016 LINCOLN MKX

PHOTO: MARTIN PRIHODA

106 A CUT LOOSE

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THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL

132 THE EXPERTS

ART & TRAVEL

Dawn near the

Pack right for

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MARCH 2016 | AED 25 | BHD 2.5

EDITOR'S PHOTO: MARTIN PRIHODA; ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: RHEA SARAN,

From left: Pausing on Marine Drive in Mumbai;

rowing up, art galleries felt like

her life through images some never displayed

From top: The boat to Alcatraz,

RHEA SARAN Editor in Chief

Cond Nast Traveller Middle East

Canadian-born fashion and

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24 COND NAST TRAVELLER MARCH 2016

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MARCH 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 31

32 COND NAST TRAVELLER MARCH 2016

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MARCH 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 33

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ART IN THE CITY

WORDS: JENNY JOHNSON

MARCH 2016 COND NAST TRAVELLER 35

On navigating Paris during Fashion Week

ILLUSTRATION: GRANT COWAN/EYECANDYILLUSTRATION.COM

he start of the year is hectic for The

Have a limousine follow

8. After the last late shows, let loose at

Jumeirah Vittaveli, South Mal Atoll, Maldives

Toll Free: 8000 3570 2891

Zurich's Old Town sits on

urichs natural beauty two

PHOTOS: ALAMY, STELLA GIGER, NELLY RODRIGUEZ

Boutiques are tucked under

7071, lasalle-restaurant.ch) and a theatre with

Shop for oneoff bags and

Centre; organic Italian antipasti at Saltinbocca;

cushion-strewn terrace beside the screeching