Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products
Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products
Spreading and Cutting of Apparel Products
Cutting is the process of separating the garment parts from the body of the fabr
ic lay. When cutting multiple layers of fabric, several issues of accuracy and q
uality must be addressed. During the cutting process, the accuracy of the cut pa
rts in relation to the original pattern is subject to the stability of the fabri
c, the movement of the fabric during cutting, the vertical accuracy of the cutti
ng edge as it cuts through the cloth, the quality of the cut edge (clean cut wit
hout fraying, flagging or singing), and the accurate inclusion of sewing marks s
uch as notches in the cut edge, and drill
CUTTING.
Inspection
Inspection on the bundled garments is done by the cuttingroom quality control ma
nager who checks the bundles for bundle ticket descriptions, correct sequence of
ply numbers, presence of all parts etc. as mentioned in the format. The inspect
ion also checks for the pieces w.r.t. the shade matching, notch positioning, etc
. The cut bundles are then issued to the sewing line with details of the bundles
issued like bundle no, size, no of pieces etc.
Asymmetric Garments
Asymmetric garments are defined as having left and right patterns that are diffe
rent shapes or different parts. Asymmetric garments require all the patterns, bo
th left and right be cut together as they differ. This means that all the patter
ns must be placed in the marker, and all the patterns must be cut individually,
This is known as a Open Marker for flat, Open and rolled fabric.
4 types of fabrics
Double Symmetrical fabric
4 types of fabrics
Double asymmetrical fabric
4 types of fabrics
lenghtwise symmetrical fabric
4 types of fabrics
widthwise symmetrical fabric
Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
Flat, open and rolled
a. Flat, open and rolled is the most common preparation. It is utilized for most
woven fabrics prepared for factory production. The fabric is rolled on a hard c
ardboard tube (or plastic tube) where the selvedges are at opposite ends of the
tube. The fabric is usually rolled with the technical face to the inside of the
roll. Roll lengths on each tube can reach 1,200 yards on a single roll, but are
more often in the 150 yard range, depending on the weight of the roll.
MARKER TYPES:
1. Mixed marker
A marker in which all the pattern pieces of a style are utilized. There is no re
striction on where they can be placed, as long as they are placed on-grain.
2. Open marker
A marker in which all the pattern pieces of a style are utilized as pairs.(all t
he left and right pattern pieces). The Open marker patterns are placed in pairs
(left and right of the same size) to ensure that if there are shade differences
in the length of the goods, parts of the garment that are seen side by side will
appear with the same shade. Open marker is used on fabric that is spread open a
nd face up on the table. For most woven fabrics, and flat open knits, open marke
rs offer the second best utilization of fabric.
3. Closed marker
Closed marker is used under special circumstances. As only one half of the patte
rn set is used, the fabric spread on the table is folded in its length and is ori
ented face to face. After cutting, any one pattern piece would yield the left an
d right piece of the garment when choosing a pair of consecutive plies. Can prod
uce on fold patterns
4. Closed-on-open
A marker with half of a set of patterns for each garment, placed on open fabric.
Every part of the garment must have corresponding left and right patterns, or b
locking and relaying is required. This mode is intended for fabric spread face t
o face. Styles with one-piece parts like a one-piece back panel can not be made
using a closed-on-open marker without blocking and re-laying. For any one part i
n the marker, a pair of consecutive plies of fabric (spread face to face) produc
e the left and right pieces of the garment. Fabric dyeing must be consistent to
use this method, as garments will be constructed of two consecutive plies of fab
ric.
6.Section Marker
Single Section Marker. When the patterns of all the different sizes are scattere
d throughout the full length of the marker (placed wherever they fit the best),
the marker is known as non-sectional or single section marker. Markers with more
than one section, known as section markers are utilized when the order ratios a
re unknown in advance. The section marker facilitates producing different order
ratios using the same marker through step spreading. Although at the lowest effi
ciency, single-section markers permit total flexibility
MARKER MODES
Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
SPREADING MODES (OPEN FABRIC)
Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll
SPREADING MODES (CLOSED/FOLDED FABRIC)
These processes are also used on tubular rolled fabric
Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far
end, then returned to the beginning. Then the process is repeated
Zigzag in closed roll
Hand Shears
Hand Shears are used when cutting samples and limited quantities of garments. Th
e cutter must control the shears keeping the cut edge layer adds to the difficul
ty of accurate cutting, the patterns are often traced in tailors chalk on the top
layer of fabric. Hand shears are limited to the cutters physical strength, but
usually no more than two layers of fabric due to the loss of accuracy as the she
ars lifts the fabric off the cutting table. This method is slow and unproductive
.
Short Knife
The Short Knife is an alternate method to hand shears. The short knife slices th
rough the fabric, scoring the table in the process much the same way as slicing
vegetables on a cutting board. Fabrics cut this way must be heavily weighted, as
the short knife pushes as it cuts through the fabric, distorting multiple layer
s of fabric. Ten to twelve layers of fabric may be accurately cut this way. The
short knife is also used for sloping on dress shirts and other customized apparel
where only a few layers of fabric are being cut at one time.
Auxiliary Devices
Notchers: are either manual or electric machines used to make notches in the edg
e of a cut bundle. Unless cutting notches while cutting with the up and down kni
fe, notchers are necessary for creating notches. Drillers: Cloth Drills are used
when a mark is needed inside the body of a part to indicate the point of a dart
, location of a
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