FR Cyprus PDF
FR Cyprus PDF
FR Cyprus PDF
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Cyprus
From the best family beaches to mountain villages
by Sue Bryant
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Cyprus
From the best family beaches to mountain villages
by Sue Bryant
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Copyright 2008 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester,
West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England
Telephone (+44) 1243 779777
Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): [email protected].
Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com
All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency
Ltd, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 4LP, UK, without the permission in writing
of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions
Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex
PO19 8SQ, England, or emailed to [email protected], or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620.
Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks,
trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to
the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged
in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional should be sought.
UK Publisher: Sally Smith
Executive Project Editor: Daniel Mersey (Frommers UK)
Commissioning Editor: Mark Henshall (Frommers UK)
Development Editor: Tim Locke
Project Editor: Hannah Clement (Frommers UK)
Cartographer: John Tulip
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Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN: 978-0-470-72318-0
Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Printed and bound in China by RR Donnelley
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Contents
1 Family Highlights
of Cyprus 1
Cyprus Family Highlights 3
Best Accommodation 7
Best Eating Options 10
5 Limassol 93
2 Planning a Family Trip
to Cyprus 13
Visitor Information 15
Essentials 26
Accommodation & Eating Out 31
Getting Children Interested in
Cyprus 33
Fast Facts: Cyprus 34
Essentials 95
Visitor Information 96
What to See & Do 99
Family-friendly Accommodation 117
Family-friendly Dining 122
6 The Troodos
Mountains 127
Essentials 129
Visitor Information 129
What to See & Do 131
Family-friendly Accommodation 146
Family-friendly Dining 149
7 Larnaca 151
Essentials 153
Visitor Information 154
What to See & Do 155
Family-friendly Accommodation 167
Family-friendly Dining 170
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9 Nicosia 195
Essentials 197
Visitor Information 197
What to See & Do 199
Family-friendly Accommodation 210
Family-friendly Dining 213
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10 History 215
The Insider 221
Greek Phrases 222
Useful Terms & Phrases 223
Food & Drink 230
Index 235
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Sue Bryant is an award-winning writer and editor, specialising in family travel and Mediterranean resorts. She writes for various national
newspapers in the UK and magazines and websites worldwide, and
has written, edited or contributed to 21 guidebooks.
Sue has been visiting Cyprus and writing about the island for 21
years in many capacities, from tourism to family travel, spas and golf,
and remains captivated by its beauty and friendliness. She lives in
London with her two children, Lauren and Joel.
Acknowledgements
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An Additional Note
MOMENT
VALUE
OVERRATED
GREEN
American Express
MasterCard
Visa
A Note on Prices
vi
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Photo Credits
Cover Credits
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Inside Images
viii
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Page 1
1 Family Highlights
of Cyprus
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Page 2
C
Everybody who visits loves it but first-time visitors
may wonder initially what all the fuss is about. After all, the beaches
are nothing special. The resorts are certainly far from beauteous. The
countryside is fairly arid. The political situation of the impasse between
Turkish and Greek, North and South, dominates conversation.
And yet... The smell of wild herbs the very minute you drive out
of the airport. The mellow evening sun reflecting off the Rock of
Aphrodite. The wind in the pines, high up in the Troodos Mountains.
The joy of sitting with your toes in the sand, tucking into a vast meze
of salads, dips and fresh, grilled sardines, washed down with delicious
local wines.
On a more practical note, for families, its the fact that you wouldnt
dream of pitching up at a restaurant and saying Is this a child-friendly
establishment? Of course it is. Pretty much everywhere in Cyprus is
child-friendly and all Cypriots appear to adore children. Ive lost count
of the times when Ive seen a tired mother struggling with a grizzly
baby at the breakfast buffet and some beaming waitress comes up and
bears the child away, cooing, leaving the mother gaping in happy
amazement.
Cypriots are genuinely hospitable and always find time to chat. Its
true that their wonderful service ethic is being eroded somewhat by
the influx of untrained workers from the new EU countries but in
most places, families receive a warm and effusive welcome. Cypriots
enjoy money as much as anybody else but they have not been spoiled
by tourism; theyre not cynical, or grasping, and pretty well every meal
in a taverna ends in a conversation with the proprietor and a few
brandies on the house.
Why else do I love Cyprus? Because its genuinely beautiful; mountainous, forested, remote in places and even after visiting for 25 years,
first without my children, then with a newborn and now with preteens, Im still finding new walks, new hidden coves and tiny hamlets
of stone houses, tucked away in the mountains. Ive made friends whom
I visit year after year, and I envy the carefree outdoor lifestyle their children enjoy.
Although Cyprus is certainly an upmarket kind of destination,
made more expensive by the fact that its a little beyond the range of
most low-cost airlines, it genuinely caters to all tastes. For those who
care about nightlife, which you may well if youre travelling with
teenagers, theres everything from chill-out beach bars to bouzouki
clubs. If youre looking for luxury, youre in the right place. The island
has what I consider to be the best overall standard of accommodation
in the Mediterranean, ranging from the most chic boutiques imaginable, to ultra-deluxe five-star family resorts, to beautiful stone houses,
carefully restored, affordable to all and offering an insight into village
life.
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CYPRUS FAMILY
HIGHLIGHTS
Best Family Events Cyprus has
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Olive harvest
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Best Accommodation
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BEST
ACCOMMODATION
Best Resort Hotel Aphrodite
Hills (see p. 67), tucked away
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Best Accommodation
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BEST EATING
OPTIONS
Best Sunday Lunch Eat where
the locals eat at Panayotis (see
p. 125), a taverna with blue and
white checked table cloths overlooking Governors Beach, a
stretch of gritty sand bordered
by steep white cliffs off the main
road between Limassol and
Larnaca. The restaurant, which
has been here for decades, offers
a huge fish meze and a childrens
menu. After lunch, you can walk
down the cliff path to the beach
for a swim.
Best Educational Dining If
10
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2 Planning a Family
Trip to Cyprus
ASIA
Black Sea
Medit
area of
erran
Sea ean detail
AFRICA
A6
Mediterranean
Sea
Aigialousa
Rizokarpaso
Episkopi
Bay
Lemesos
Akrotiri
Bay
15 mi
20 km
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Pissouri
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International
Airport
Galinoporni
Platanissos K A R P A S I A
Neta
Eptakomi
Koma
Davlos
Komi
tou Gialou
Livera
Akanthou
Agios
Karavas
Theodoros
Charkeia
Agios
Lapithos
Keryneia
Bogazi
Iakovos
Agia
Trapeza
Perivolia
Knodara
Eirini
Lefkonoiko
Skylloura Nicosia
Kythrea
Ammochostos
MESAORIA
Kato
International
Morfou
Bay
Aloda
Mediterranean
Pyrgos Morfou
Pyrga
Airport
Kokkina
Masari
Prastio
Bay
Sea
Nicosia
Pomos
Sinta
Pentageia
B9
Kalopsida
TILLIRIA
Agia
Chrysochou
Ammochostos
Tymvou
Lysi
B9
Livadi
Bay
Orounta
Tseri
Deryneia
Frodisia
Athienou
A1
E704 Gialia
Nikitari
Achna
MARATHASA
Paralimni
Dali
A K A M A S Polis
Avdellero Ormideia
Tsakistra
Klirou
E912
S O L E A E907
A3
Agia Napa
A2
E903
Mylikouri
Xylofagou
Sia
Aradippou
Ineia
Lazanias
E104
TROODOS
Apliki
A1
Polemi
Larnaka Larnaka
Pegeia
PITSILIA
Pano
A5
Bay
Mandria Agios
Larnaka
Choulou
Lefkara
Koili
International
Mamas
Kiti
Kidasi
Airport
Malia B8
Gerasa
Vasa Kofinou
F616
Mazotos
E110
Pachna
Parekklisia
Pafos
Anogyra
Zygi
Pafos
A1
E601
Mandria
14
Greece Turkey
EUROPE
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CYPRUS
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All the main tourist centres Paphos, Limassol, Larnaca and Ayia
Napa and the subsidiary ones, the Pissouri region and the Troodos,
are easily accessible and part of an excellent infrastructure. Driving is
easy and convenient. If you get lost, finding an English-speaker to
help wont be difficult. Best of all, the island is completely childfriendly, so planning a series of excursions, or even a touring holiday,
is easy as there isnt really anywhere or anything to avoid.
In the heat of summer, Id suggest excursions early in the morning
or late afternoon, with swimming built in wherever possible. The
Troodos region is always a couple of degrees cooler than the coast and
Nicosia in summer is hotter, so plan accordingly. Outside the main
summer months, youll have more flexibility.
This book is arranged in a west-to-east direction, starting with
Paphos and the Akamas region; moving eastwards to Pissouri,
Limassol and the Troodos; onwards to Larnaca; and to the other end
of the island, Ayia Napa and Protaras. Finally, theres a chapter on
Nicosia, the capital, which for most families, is really a day trip rather
than a place to stay.
Ive used anglicised spellings of Cypriot place names throughout,
although you will see variations of these on the island.
VISITOR
INFORMATION
Child-Specific Websites
I havent discovered any good
websites covering family travel in
Cyprus specifically but there are
plenty of general travel websites
with useful advice for travelling
with children.
For general travel tips, www.
babygoes2.com and www.takethe
family.com are both good. The
Cyprus Tourism Organisations
website, www.visitcyprus.com is
comprehensive but frustrating to
navigate. For a good insiders
guide, check out www.cyprustravel-secrets.com and for
Visitor Information
Yet
many families barely stray from their hotel, which is a shame, as
A
they miss out on 90% of what this wonderful island has to offer.
Entry Requirements,
Customs & Bringing Pets
Passports & Visas
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800 cigarettes
400 cigarillos
200 cigars
1 kg of tobacco
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10 litres of spirits
20 litres fortified wine (such as
port or sherry)
90 litres of wine (of which, a
maximum of 60 litres of
sparkling wine)
110 litres of beer
Travellers under the age of 17
are not entitled to duty-free
tobacco products and alcohol.
Forbidden Items
90 litres of wine
110 litres of beer
You can claim a VAT refund
on goods exported from Cyprus
in your hand luggage if you are
the holder of a passport from
outside the EU.
To do this, you need to have
made your purchases from shops
that display a tax-free shopping
sign and collected a tax-free document at the time of purchase
important if youre buying something valuable like jewellery.
When leaving Cyprus show
your purchases and passport to
customs officials and have your
tax-free document stamped.
For more information, visit
the website of the Customs &
Excise department in Nicosia
(www.mof.gov.cy/ce).
Visitor Information
Alcohol
Page 17
If you are a single parent travelling with your children, as a precaution, I recommend having a
letter signed by the childrens
other parent giving you permission to take them out of the UK.
This isnt a legal requirement but
I have been stopped travelling
alone with my children and
questioned by a (friendly) immigration officer.
The advice of the UK Foreign
and Commonwealth Office
(www.fco.gov.uk) for Cyprus at
the time of going to press is that
any adults travelling alone with
children should be aware that
they may need to bring documentary evidence of parental
17
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Money
At the beginning of 2008,
Cyprus bid farewell to the
Cyprus pound and said hello to
the euro. Needless to say, a lot
of prices went up but to make
things easier, there is an official
fixed exchange rate of 1 to
CY0.585274. This is why
youll see such strange euro
prices in this book; at the time
of writing, Cypriots were making straight conversions using
this rate. Over time, prices are
likely to be adjusted and
rounded up or down to something more manageable.
There are seven denominations in euro banknotes: 5, 10,
20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros.
They all have different colour
and size, the higher the denomination, the bigger the size. One
euro is divided into 100 cents.
There are eight euro coins: 1, 2,
5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and
2. The designs on one side of
the coins are common to all the
countries of the euro area, while
the other side reflects national
identities. All euro coins can be
used in all euro area countries,
irrespective of their national
side.
If you visit the Turkish occupied side of Cyprus, the currency is Turkish lire, although
euros are widely accepted.
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Cinema ticket
Theatre ticket
Concert or opera ticket
Continental breakfast in a caf
Lunch
Dinner at a taverna (meze,
including beer or cold drink)
Wine
around 1
3.505 more in the resorts, less in the
mountain villages
around 7 for adults and 5 for children
1725
2577
3.406
1013.50
around 20
Visitor Information
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Carnival
Visitor Information
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Special Events
Public holiday.
1st October: Cyprus Independence Day
22
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Hospitals
Staying Healthy
Visitor Information
Vaccinations
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b 26 306 100.
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Specialised Resources
For Single Parents
For Grandparents
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Visitor Information
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The 21st-Century
Traveller
Mobile Phones
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ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Plane There are two interna-
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services.
By Sea Ferries are few and far
Essentials
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specialist.
Argo Holidays b 020 7331 7070,
www.argoholidays.com;
Cyprus
specialist with good cross-section
of hotels and apartments.
Cyplon Travel b 020 8348 9142,
www.cyplon.com.
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Getting Around
By Car Cyprus is officially
INSIDER TIP
If you see a driver flashing their
lights in daylight, that probably
means that police radar is near
and you should be aware of the
speed limit.
Essentials
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Larnaca Airport
INSIDER TIP
If youre driving west in the late
afternoon, you will need a decent
pair of sunglasses. The main
roads all run in an eastwest
direction and the setting sun can
be absolutely dazzling!
Operates: NicosiaLimassol
Paphos.
Clarios Bus Co b 23 721 321,
TroodosKakopetria.
643 350
E: [email protected]
Hertz Rent-a-Car b 24 643 388,
www.hertz.com.cy
Thrifty Car Rental b 24 643 375
Paphos Airport
Andreas Petsas & Sons b 26
423 046
30
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LarnacaLimassol.
Nea Amoroza Transport Co Ltd
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Operates: NicosiaParalimni
Deryneia
PedoulasPlatres Bus b 99 618
865/22 952 437.
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ACCOMMODATION &
EATING OUT
Accommodation
Campsites
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Hotels
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Eating Out
Eating out is one of the great
pleasures in Cyprus and there are
thousands of restaurants ranging
from traditional Cypriot to
Lebanese, French, Thai and
Indian.
Cypriot tavernas specialise in
meze a vast array of food in
one meal, starting with dips,
nibbles like sausages and prawns,
salads, a fish course, a selection
of meats, then desserts. You need
time and a large appetite for
meze Ive never finished one
myself. Tavernas by the sea specialise in fish meze, which is
truly spectacular. Local fish
include sea bream and sea bass
but more exotic types will be
imported and frozen.
Stick to Cypriot wines if you
want to save money. They always
taste better in Cyprus than they
do when you bring them home
but have improved beyond
recognition in recent years and
are much cheaper than imported
wines.
Beers include KEO, which
is brewed on the island and is
extremely pleasant and refreshing on a hot day. For children,
the usual array of soft drinks
is available, although freshlysqueezed orange juice is
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Despite the fact that travel between the north and the south is
becoming easier, most people, particularly families, choose to limit their
holiday to one side of the island.
This book only covers the Republic of Cyprus for a number of reasons. For the first time visitor, it is the more obvious place to go as it is
served by direct flights from the UK. In order to reach Northern (Turkishoccupied) Cyprus by air, you still have to fly via the Turkish mainland. The
airport in the north is not recognised as a legal point of entry into the
Republic of Cyprus.
Although many people take a day trip into the north from the south,
the concept of two centre holidays has not yet taken off. Its much better to base yourself in one of the resorts on the south and maybe take a
couple of guided excursions into the Turkish-occupied north.
Another factor is time. For most families, Cyprus is essentially a
beach holiday and even on a two-week trip, youll find plenty to see in
the south. Then theres the cost; as tour operators dont offer two centre holidays, a week in each part of the island could be expensive.
This is not to say the north is not worth considering. Its exceptionally
beautiful and cheaper than the south in the current economic climate of
the strong Euro (the currency is the Turkish lira). But the infrastructure is
less developed and you wont find the same levels of luxury or the facilities for children as you do in resorts like Limassol and Paphos. Perhaps
one day, when both sides of the island are reunified, the two-centre holiday will become more commonplace.
GETTING CHILDREN
INTERESTED IN
CYPRUS
Show children on a map and on
Google Earth where Cyprus is
and how long it will take to get
there. Explain to them about the
islands wildlife and conservation
issues most children nowadays
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FAST FACTS:
CYPRUS
Alcohol The legal drinking age
34
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set of maps which are quite adequate for most tourists. Get
them from the airport when you
arrive, or from your car rental
company. Note that the spelling
of place names often varies, and
that many places have the same
name! Google Earth (www.google
earth.com) is actually a brilliant
resource for Cyprus as the mapping is so clear and you can search
for place names on that, too.
Marriage Cyprus is a popular
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p. 36.
Opening Hours See p. 34.
Parking You cannot park on a
p. 18.
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Temp (Centigrade)
12
12
13
16
20
23
26
26
24
21
17
14
Rainfall (days)
9
7
7
5
2
0
0
0
1
3
6
7
Temp (Centigrade)
12
12
14
17
22
26
27
28
26
22
17
14
Rainfall (days)
8
6
6
5
2
0
0
0
0
4
5
6
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Tour guides in Cyprus attend a special tourist guide school and are
all licensed by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation when they pass their
exams. They complete a one-year course which includes topics such
as archaeology, geology, Byzantine and mediaeval history, nature, arts
and crafts, food and wine. Although its expensive, if youre travelling as
a group it may be worth hiring your own guide for a more in-depth look
at the island - or perhaps a tour more geared to your familys interests.
You can contact a guide directly via the website www.cytourist
guides.com where there is a helpful listing of guides in each of the main
towns, with details of the languages they speak. The website also displays the fees charged by a guide which start at 75.99 euro for a half day,
119.57 euro for a full day with supplements for public holidays, Sundays
or activities like trekking. Bear in mind that a good guide is likely to be
fully booked in the summer, so plan ahead if you decide to go down this
route. Tel. +357 22 765755 or email [email protected].
You can also enquire in any tourist information office.
Tourist Guides
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O
perched in the south-west of the island where
scrub-covered hills and pine forest flatten out onto a broad coastal
42
plain. The climate here is more humid than in the east and although
much of the agricultural land has been covered by villa developments,
youll still see banana plantations on the road north to Coral Bay.
Many people visit Paphos and barely stray from their hotel pool,
but behind the increasingly sprawling town, the developed area comes
to an abrupt end and gives way to olive and almond groves, steep hills
and sleepy, whitewashed villages. This is also the gateway to the wild,
rugged Akamas Peninsula, in a way, the last wilderness of Cyprus,
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ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Air Paphos International
Essentials
where you can still look for huge griffon vultures, trek craggy gorges
and in season, see baby turtles hatching on Lara Beach (see p. 78).
Paphos itself has everything you could need for a family holiday,
from the excellent Paphos Bird and Animal Park (see p. 55) to a
medieval fortress, a bustling market, shopping, ten-pin bowling, Blue
Flag beaches and every watersport imaginable, as well as some you
probably hadnt imagined. But its the contrast between the urban area
and the countryside that makes a trip here so rewarding.
Paphos has extended tentacles of development to encompass the
new resort area of Coral Bay, 15 km to the north. Coral Bay is worth
considering in its own right for a family holiday, thanks to its quieter
atmosphere, gorgeous beach and superb hotels and, for adventurous
types, the fact that Akamas is right on the doorstep.
To the east, the coast stretches away through a series of quiet villages to Pissouri, a hilltop settlement with another lovely beach at its
foot, but best known for the nearby beach where Aphrodite, goddess
of love, is said to have emerged from the foaming sea.
In between all these places are pretty villages, most of them off the
beaten track. None of them offer anything specific for families you
have to stay in the big resorts for that but the warm Cypriot welcome adults and children will find in these places is living proof that
the famous hospitality is more than a myth.
although its best to book in
advance. Alternatively, do without a car for a few days and rent
one in town, or through your
hotel, when you need it.
The drive from the airport to
the beach area on Poseidonos
Avenue, where most of the
hotels are located, takes a maximum 20 minutes in average traffic and the signposting is
reasonably clear.
The drive to Paphos only
takes about 1 hour 20 minutes.
If youre doing a two-centre holiday and driving from Limassol,
allow 40 minutes on the motorway or an hour or so on the
prettier, quieter coast road.
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VISITOR
INFORMATION
The Cyprus Tourism
Organisation (CTO) has two
offices in Paphos, including one
on the main hotel strip of
Poseidonos Avenue. Theres a
booth at Paphos Airport, too,
operating until 11pm. The CTO
has a lot of excellent information
and a complete set of island
maps, which are good enough for
navigating your way around. Its
website is www.visitcyprus.com.
Page 44
Orientation
44
Getting Around
By Car Hiring a car is by far the
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2 Exploring
3 Kayaking
4 Watching archaeologists at
work on the Paphos Mosaics (see
p. 56).
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PAPHOS TOWN
9:19 AM
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Paphos also has a disproportionate number of superb, fivestar hotels for families looking
for the full spa experience, exciting childrens clubs and gourmet
food. These places include the
gorgeous Almyra and the wonderful Paphos Amathus Beach
Hotel, with its vast pool that
children adore. The resorts
biggest lure to me, though, is its
proximity to the untamed western tip of the island, Akamas
(see p. 80), where I personally
could spend days exploring, hiking, visiting remote beaches,
wildlife-spotting and breathing
in the mountain air (and have
done so), all with my children.
Page 47
Coral Bay
Paphos Harbour
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Eternal Youth
A local myth states that anyone who bathes in the sea under a full moon
at the Rock of Aphrodite will achieve eternal youth.
FUN FACT
9/8/08
Scenic villages
Kallepeia
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Choulou
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Vrysoudia B
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east from Paphos! Both are regularly awarded EU Blue Flag status.
B is really only a narrow strip of
sand in front of the Alexander the
Great Hotel on Poseidonos
Avenue but the seabed shelves
gently and the water is beautifully
clear.
Coral Beach
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Sea Caves
ALL AGES
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OVERRATED
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ALL AGES
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Paphos Mosaics
AGES 5 AND UP
56
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Page 57
Top Museums
Oleastro Olive Park
FIND GREEN
ALL AGES
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Page 58
Child-friendly Tours
Special Village Tour
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Jeep Safaris
Donkey Safaris
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to the animal park to say goodbye to the donkeys and tuck into
a traditional meze, followed by
riotous Cypriot entertainment.
This tour can attract several
bus loads at once, so dont expect
anything exclusive!
Page 60
Funbuggy Cyprus
76 Tombs of the Kings Road,
Paphos, b 26 912 491 or mobile
b 99 118 250 or b 99 325 753, www.
funbuggycyprus.com. On the outskirts of Paphos, almost opposite the
entrance for the Tombs of the Kings,
next door to the Rocking Chair Pub;
head out of Paphos town on the
E701 (the coast road to Coral Bay).
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Cosmic Bowling
1 Ifaistou, Paphos, b 26 220 033.
b 26 991 177.
On bus routes 11 or 15 of if youre
driving, just inland from the Riu
Cypria Maris Hotel, which is on the
beach in Kato Paphos.
Page 61
Balloon Flights
Ikaros Balloon Flights, b 26 271 933.
Thrill Rides
Tiger Trips, Paphos Harbour. Office
address: Shop no. 2, Block A,
Byzantium Gardens, Tombs of the
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Mountain Biking
62
Page 62
Shopping
Like any holiday resort, Paphos
has its share of tourist tat; you
will never run out of beach balls
or lurid, non-absorbent towels
here. There are a few gems in
amidst all the beachfront stores
and shopping malls but you have
to head away from the tourist
areas for real quality.
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INSIDER TIP
Watch out for pirate CDs and
DVDs, which are everywhere.
Buying these is illegal and
besides, the quality is laughably
awful.
Debenhams
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Paphos Market
Page 64
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
Paphos
EXPENSIVE
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Page 65
Family-friendly Accommodation
Almyra
FIND
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EXPENSIVE
MODERATE
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Pissouri
EXPENSIVE
Intercontinental Aphrodite
Hills Resort
1 Aphrodite Avenue, Kouklia, b 26
829 000, www.aphroditehills.com.
Ultra-luxurious, self-contained
resort, absolutely gorgeous if you
dont mind the isolation in the
countryside outside Pissouri. As
well as the hotel, there are swish
villas dotted around the golf
course, and a village square area
with restaurants and shops,
including a pizzeria, taverna,
Asian restaurant, pub, ouzerie
and caf.
The hotel itself is exquisite
really beautifully presented, with
huge rooms spread around an
enticing lagoon pool, decor you
just want to take home and gracious service. There are several
restaurants, from Italian to
Mediterranean and Asian-fusion.
Theres an imaginative childrens
club from three to 12 years, and
a beach club a short shuttle ride
away. The spa is to die for and I
seriously recommend at least one
session in it. The hotel can
arrange babysitting, childrens
menus, cots and high chairs.
Rooms 290. Rates From 242.73
per room per night, B&B. Credit MC
V DC AE. Amenities Numerous
restaurants, spa, childrens club,
babysitting, pool, beach with beach
Family-friendly Accommodation
Page 67
MODERATE
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Kallepeia
INEXPENSIVE
Agrotiko
Perikli Demitriou 19, Kallepeia, b 26
271 864, www.agrotourism.com.cy.
Nikokleia
INEXPENSIVE
Page 68
In a village 17 km southeast of
Paphos, this historic Cypriot inn
was once used by travellers and
their animals on the old trading
routes there are views of the
Troodos and the coast and the
inn sits in a (relatively) lush river
valley.
The inn has a beautiful garden with a pool and lots of subtropical plants, surrounded by
lemon and olive groves. This is a
great area for birdwatching, too.
There is a taverna attached to
the property, which makes it
handy for families. Rooms sleep
a maximum of three and some
have four poster beds.
Rooms 8. Rates From 58 per room
per night. Credit MC V if you book
online; cash if you are paying the
owner direct. Amenities Garden, air
conditioning, TV, fireplace, taverna
attached to the hotel.
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
Paphos
EXPENSIVE
Notios
Almyra Hotel, Poseidonos Avenue,
b 26 888 700, www.thanoshotels.
com.
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Asiachi
Amathus Beach Hotel, Poseidonos
Avenue, b 26 883 300, www.
amathus-hotels.com.
MODERATE
Seven St Georges
FIND
GREEN
Family-friendly Dining
Page 69
Surely the most fun and fascinating place on the island for a
Cypriot meze! Everything here is
home-made, or organic, or both.
The herbs are grown in the garden and picked wild and the fabulous meze is made up almost
exclusively of local produce,
including samples of the 1,950
edible plants growing on
Cyprus, from wild artichokes to
mushrooms harvested from the
Paphos forest. Seafood is delivered daily, meat and cheese are
from local farms and George, the
owner, shoots the game himself.
George and Lara, his wife, even
make their own wine. Theres no
menu as such; just sit and see
what comes. Expect home-made
bread, local olives, melt-in-themouth grilled halloumi cheese
and a huge variety of meats,
from chicken to spiced sausages
and kleftiko, a local speciality, in
which lamb is baked for a whole
day in a sealed pit, making it
blissfully tender. There are fantastic vegetarian dishes and such
a huge choice that even the fussiest child will find something
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they like. Allow the whole afternoon if youve come for lunch,
or a long evening. Children are
warmly welcomed and George
will take great pleasure in
explaining Cypriot lore to them;
which herbs are edible, which
snakes are poisonous. If there
were ever a place to epitomise
the slow food movement, and
the art of reconnecting with
what you are eating, this is it.
Open Daily except Mon. Meze
Around 17.50 with wine (theres no
menu). Credit MC V DC AE.
Amenities Highchairs.
Deep Blue
12 Pafias Aphrodites (Tombs of the
Kings area), b 26 818 015.
Page 70
Mandra Tavern
Dionysou 4, Kato Paphos, b 26 934
129.
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Akamas
MODERATE
Viklari/Last Castle
On the edge of Akamas; drive past
Agios Georgios towards Akamas and
follow signs to Avakas Gorge. Viklari
is on top of the hill up a steep,
unmade road, b 26 991 088.
A big, jolly taverna with stunning views over the sea to the
west and Akamas to the north,
constructed on the foundations
of an old castle. You sit at stone
tables under the shade of vines,
or on a wooden deck, raised
above the restaurant with stupendous views towards the
gorge. A lot of walkers come
here for a beer after hiking the
gorge but its also popular with
expatriates, families (keep a careful eye on climbing toddlers, as
it really is on top of a cliff ) and
parched holidaymakers who
Family-friendly Dining
La Boite 67
Page 71
Kathikas
MODERATE
Araouzos
Georgiou Kleanthous 17, Kathikas
village (on the E709 from Coral Bay),
b 26 632 076.
Pissouri
MODERATE
Limanaki
Pissouri Bay, on the waterfront, b 25
221 288.
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Page 72
Bunch of Grapes
9 Ioannou Erotokritou Street, b 25
221 275.
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4 Polis, Latchi
& the West
74
Dining
Polis Archaeological Museum and
Lemon Garden Restaurant 1
Smygies Picnic Site 2
Yangtze Chinese Restaurant 3
Savvas Cafe and Kivotis Art Cafe 4
Kouppas Stone Taverna 5
Mediterranean
Sea
LARA
Neo
Chorio
E701
1
3
Akoursos
E709
Pano
Arodes
Ineia
E709
Androlikou
10
Drouseia
Pegeia
PEGEIA
FOREST
Fasli
Chrysohou
Bay
2
3
B7
Giolou
Miliou
E712
Evretou
Dam
Stroumpi
E711
Kathikas
F723
Kinousa
Polemi
Simou
Drymou
Evretou
Peristerona
Pelathousa
Tremithousa
Loukrounou
Tera
Choli
B7
Chrysochou
Polis
Goudi
Pano
Akourdaleia
Argaka
Makounta
E704
Choulou
E 703
Kannaviou
Fyti
Samara
Kios
0
4 km
3 mi
Lapithiou
Anadiou
PAFOS
FOREST
area of
detail
CY PR
PRUS
6:24 PM
E713
AKAMAS
FOREST
AKAMAS
9/8/08
Accommodation
Elia Latchi Holiday Village 1
Chloe Stylianous House 2
Stathis Karamanos House 3
Amarakos Inn 4
Agios Theodoros Cottage 5
Attractions
Drousia Village and
Sappho Manor House 1
Arodes Village 2
Kathikas Akamas Visitor Centre 3
Avakas Gorge 4
Baths of Aphrodite/
Aphrodite Trail 5
Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery 6
Lara Beach and
Turtle Hatchery 7
Skarfos Medieval Bridge 8
Anassa 9
Psaropoulos, Y&P and
Porto Latchi 10
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birds and butterflies, mountain streams, craggy cliffs and tiny offshore
islands.
This is the place to come if you want to introduce your children to
village life, where theyll encounter goats, donkeys and chickens, or if
youre looking for family-friendly tavernas right on the beach serving
fish caught that morning. Grapes and olives grow on the steep hill terraces, sloping up to the Paphos forest where there are picnic sites and
marked walking trails, many of them manageable for young children.
Polis is the only town, slowly expanding towards its tiny neighbour,
Latchi, as more tourists discover the charm of this peaceful area and
pockets of holiday villas spring up. But the mountain villages are coming back to life, thanks to agrotourism, an initiative to fund and promote rural tourism, and even if youre looking for a beach holiday, do
spend a couple of nights in a traditional stone house in the hills, just
for the experience.
The pointy north-west tip of this corner of the island is the
Akamas Peninsula, a protected area with no development, crisscrossed with bumpy dirt tracks and walking trails and fringed with
gorgeous sandy beaches. There are no facilities here so youll need
water, a picnic, your own shade and a four-wheel drive, but youll see
a side of Cyprus a million miles from the big resorts of the south.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Air Paphos International
Visitor Information
T
You wont find any nightlife or shopping malls here not even a
glimmer. What you will find is dazzling wildflowers, abundant herbs,
VISITOR
INFORMATION
The CTO website, www.visit
has fairly comprehensive information on the
area but I strongly suggest you
visit the Akamas Visitor Centre
in Kathikas village for more
information on touring Akamas.
cyprus.com,
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Orientation
Getting Around
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20 km downhill on
a mountain bike. See p. 84.
3 Coasting
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to identify edible
plants and herbs (but not
through trial and error!). See
p. 79.
8 Learning
9 Taking a boat trip and jumping off the boat for a swim. See
p. 83.
0 Plunging underwater in the
Blue Lagoon on a Bubblemaker
diving course. See p. 85.
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Drousia
Page 79
GREEN
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Famous Cypriots
Several famous popular musicians have connections to Cyprus.
Singer George Michael was born to Cypriot parents in London, and the
father of musician Yusef Islam (formerly known as Cat Stevens) was from
Cyprus. Australian singer Peter Andre, husband of Katie Price, aka
Jordan, has close family on the island.
A visit to this peaceful beach village in the far north is a whiteknuckle ride via a UN-patrolled
dirt track over a steep mountain,
but worth it if you seek the
slightly dubious thrill of being
right up against the Green Line,
the UN buffer zone that separates
the Republic of Cyprus from the
Turkish-occupied north. The
scenery here is amazing you
really are as far from the big
resorts of the south coast as you
could possibly imagine and the
tiny fishing village has clean
beaches and cheap fish tavernas.
Its extremely popular with
Cypriots in summer, escaping the
fleshpots of the south, so if you
want a taste of where the locals
go on holiday, heres your chance.
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ALL AGES
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Avakas Gorge
FIND
AGES 5 AND UP
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OVERRATED
Page 82
Top Museums
Chrysorrogiatissa Monastery
AGES 5 AND UP
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Polis Archaeological
Museum of Marion-Arsinoe
AGES 5 AND UP
Child-friendly Tours
Donkey Trekking
Page 83
ALL AGES
b 99 086 721.
Boat Trips
Various operators including Polipafo,
b 26 323 422, www.polipafo.com.
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Self-Drive Boats
Latchi Watersports Centre, b 26 322
095, www.latchiwatersportscentre.
com. Based in Latchi harbour.
GREEN
AGES 14 AND UP
Page 84
Go-Karting
AGES 12 AND UP
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able enough for most older children. Things to look out for after
the Baths of Aphrodite are the
ruins of Pyrgos tis Rigainas, once
part of a medieval monastery, and
also the site of a wonderful old
oak tree, reckoned to be over 100
years old.
Further along, you can see the
whole of Cape Arnaoutis, the
pointy bit at the very far northwest of Cyprus. Its often pleasantly breezy up here but youll
still need to take a supply of
water and load up with sunblock
before you set off.
Scuba Diving
6:24 PM
Smigies Trail
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Turtles in Cyprus
You might see two species of turtle Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas)
and Loggerhead Turtle (Caretta caretta) in the warm waters around
Cyprus. Both are endangered; in the past, they were captured to make
turtle soup, but a more recent threat is the encroachment of tourism
projects on their nesting sites. Green turtles especially are on the verge
of extinction in the Mediterranean.
Although turtles live in the sea, they still breathe air and lay their eggs
on remote beaches, from the beginning of June to the middle of August.
During the breeding season, each female lays three to five clutches of
eggs, each one of about 100 eggs, in a hole she digs herself. Seven
weeks later, the baby turtles, or hatchlings, dig their way out and head
straight for the sea. They find the sea by following the moonlight reflected
off the water, but sadly, will be attracted to any other light source, like a
taverna, or a torch, which is why its so important that the turtle beaches
are dark. Another danger is foxes, which will eat some 80% of the eggs,
given half a chance.
The Lara Turtle Conservation Project aims to protect the beach, protect the nests, and keep an eye on the turtle population. All the nests are
collected and moved to a special fenced-off part of the beach, where
theyre reburied in cages to protect them from the foxes.
Thanks to the project, over 6,000 hatchlings are now released every
year, more than three times the number that would make it if the nests
were left open to foxes. And if a female turtle survives, she will return to
this very same beach in 15 to 30 years to lay her own eggs.
Agiasma Trail
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FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
Polis & Latchi
EXPENSIVE
Anassa
On the Baths of Aphrodite Road,
between Polis and Latchi, b 26 888
000, www.thanoshotels.com.
Family-friendly Accommodation
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MODERATE
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Self-Catering in Villages
MODERATE
INEXPENSIVE
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FIND GREEN
Family-friendly Accommodation
Amarakos Inn
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FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
Polis & Latchi
EXPENSIVE
Page 90
MODERATE
Lemon Garden
Makarios Avenue, just before the village square on the way into Polis,
b 26 321 443, www.lemongarden.
com.cy.
Psaropoulos
On the waterfront in Latchi, b 26 321
089.
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Family-friendly Dining
Lemon Garden
Y&P Taverna
Latchi (on the beach, next to the old
harbour masters house), b 26 321
411.
Porto Latchi
b 26 529 530,
www.portolatchi.com.
Savvas Caf
In the main village square of Polis,
b 26 321 081.
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Villages
INEXPENSIVE
92
Page 92
Mansoura Tavern
Outside Mansoura village, near Kato
Pyrgos, b 26 522 493. On the rocks
above the waters edge before you
get to Kato Pyrgos; drive north from
Polis on the coast road and detour
round the Turkish enclave of Kokkina.
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5 Limassol
94
300 m
Episkopi
Bay
A6
B6
E110
LIMNIA
Lamies
Harbour
11
Mesa
Geitonia
Aplostra
7
VROMONERA
Salt Lake
A1
F128
4
GONATA
Akrotiri
Bay
E131
5
3
Mediterranean
Sea
Marina
F122
Attractions
Town beach 1
Akrotiri Salt Lake 2
Akrotiri Environmental Information Centre 3
Germasogeia Dam 4
Kurion Archaeological Site 5
Kolossi Castle 6
Monastery of St Nicholas of the Cats 7
Ladys Mile Beach 8
Amathous Archaeological Area 9
Cyprus wine Museum 10
Old Port 11
Fasouri Watermania Park 12
Wet n Wild 13
13 A1
E109
Parekklisia
Agios
Tychon
MANDRA TOU
SKORDOU
Armenochori
Mouttagiaka
Germasogeia
LAKKI
Agios
Athanasios
Lemesos
APLOSTRA
Tserkezoi
12
Asomatos
E602
Trachoni
Akrotiri
E610
MANDRES
B8
Kato
Polemidia
Pano
Polemidia
Ypsonas
Kolossi
FASOURI
10
Episkopi
1500 ft
E613
PETRALONA
A6
CHALOSPITA
Polemidia
KAPSALIA
Dam K O K K I N O G I A
SYKARI
Erimi
Palodeia
KOUNTOUROS
Moni
A1
Pentakomo
B1
Dining
TGI Fridays 1
Londa/Caprice 2
Accommodation
Santa Marina Retreat 1
Four Seasons Hotel/Mavroumatis 2
Amathus Beach Hotel/Limanaki 3
Le Meridien Limassol 4
Mediterranean Beach Hotel 5
Elias Beach Hotel 6
Nikis House 7
Anthonys Garden House 8
area of
detail
CY PR
PRUS
Pyrgos
6:25 PM
ALAKATI
Kantou
E601
Kouris
Dam
PALIOLANIA
9/8/08
A6
Sotira
KALO
TERATSOUDI
SouniZanakia
KAMENOS
STAVROS
5 Limassol
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LIMASSOL
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times. Its the biggest port of the Republic of Cyprus, and the most
populous town, at over 170,000 residents. Limassol is also the epicentre of Cypruss wine industry.
While Paphos is laid-back, Limassol today is big, bustling and
buzzing. It has many of the islands best and fanciest resort hotels
and some amazing spas, and is the place to come for more eclectic
nightlife than that of Ayia Napa (by which I mean Limassol tends
towards girlie bars and neon-lit theme bars alongside English pubs
showing reruns of Only Fools and Horses, so were still not exactly talking St Tropez). Your teenagers will thank you for it, though, and some
of the new beach lounges and sunset chill-out bars are a step in the
right direction.
This is also a good place to aim for in a low-season holiday. Its got
lots to do for families, good shopping, a pleasant waterfront and some
excellent restaurants. Limassol is also at the centre of the coast, so you
can take day trips to Paphos, the Troodos, Larnaca and Nicosia without subjecting children to too much time in the car.
Like much of Cyprus, a mere 20 minutes inland is another world
of sleepy villages, friendly tavernas, vineyards and country walks. Its
this contrast that really makes this island so enchanting.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Air Limassol is mid-way
Essentials
L
Amathous to the east and Kourion to the west, so was originally known as Neapolis, or new town in Greek during Byzantine
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Orientation
Limassol is a surprisingly big,
sprawling town, although the
tourist areas are very much concentrated into one part. The
western side is bordered by the
Akrotiri peninsula, where the
British Sovereign Base is located.
The town and the big, commercial port spread along the vast
sweep of Akrotiri Bay and
towards the eastern end, the
hotels stretch out along a long,
busy strip into an area called
Amathous. The further from the
centre, the more upmarket the
hotels, broadly speaking.
Behind the town is a range
of low hills covered with olive
groves and vineyards, rising up
to the foothills of the Troodos
Mountains.
Getting Around
Limassol is easy to navigate and
can be done without a car. Buses
run along the strip to the centre
of town, for the old castle and
museums. There are plenty of
taxis, too.
Page 96
Cyprus Rally
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Limassol
Dining
Ta Piatakia 1
Attractions
Limassol Zoo 1
Limassol Medieval Castle/Museum 2
Limassol Turkish Bath 3
Carob Museum 4
Shopping Area 5
Barolo/Beige 6
Stretto, Karatello and Draught Microbrewery 7
The Old Neighbourhood 8
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LIMASSOL CENTRE
Visitor Information
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III
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Limassol Carnival
www.limassolmunicipal.com.cy/
carnival.
www.kypriafestival.com.
Pastelli Festival
Kataklysmos
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Childrens Top 10
Attractions
on a hot day at
Watermania. See p. 113.
1 Cooling off
6 Getting up close
the Troodos
Mountains in an off-road jeep.
See p. 110.
0 Exploring
Page 99
Governors Beach
30 km east of Limassol on the old
Larnaca road; bus service.
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Germasogeia Dam
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102
Page 102
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cytanet.com.cy.
Limassol Zoo
OVERRATED
Page 103
Ostriches in Cyprus
According to legend, ostriches roamed freely around Cyprus during
the time Richard the Lionheart was on the island (1191 AD) on his way
back from the crusades.
Ostrich products are apparently in such high demand that the world
supply will never be enough. The ostrich is indeed a useful creature; as
well as its meat, you can make things from the skin, eat the eggs, and
use the feathers.
Ostrich meat is low-fat, low-calorie, low-cholesterol and high in protein, making it much sought after by health-conscious Europeans.
Ostriches can live up to 70 years and can reproduce up to their 30th
year. Their height reaches 2 m and their weight averages around 120 kg.
Ostriches can run at speeds of 65 km per hour and if frightened, can
deliver a vicious kick.
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Kolossi Castle
11 km east of Limassol; free parking
on site.
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107
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Women in Cyprus
The reality for women in Cyprus is that in the workplace they enjoy
nothing like the freedom or equal rights of women in Britain, despite
what the EU laws stipulate. Sexism is rife, particularly among older
Cypriot men, even if it is not maliciously intended. Women in a Cypriot
company will almost always have to answer to a man and however educated or senior their position, they may be expected to perform secretarial duties and make the coffee.
There are jobs for women, naturally, including British women (many
of whom are employed in the hospitality business and in real estate), but
advancement to senior level is difficult.
Having said this, there are more and more female role models for
young Cypriot women, including politician Kate Clerides, daughter of former Cyprus President Glafcos Clerides. There are many active womens
groups who campaign for peace between the north and the south,
among them Women Walk Home, Womens Civil Initiative for Peace,
Actions in the Mediterranean and Hands Across the Divide.
Whether they intend to work or not, women in Cyprus marry young.
There is usually intense family pressure to find a husband and produce
grandchildren. An engagement is cause for great celebration and a broken engagement is regarded by the family as a shameful tragedy. A very
small percentage of the population still practices arranged marriages.
Most couples marry in the Greek Orthodox church, usually on a
Sunday, followed by a lavish ceremony involving the entire local community, the bride in a frothy white dress, singing, dancing and bouzouki
music. In urban communities, the invitation to the wedding is often in the
form of an advertisement in the paper, ensuring a large turnout.
Many Cypriot girls still come with a dowry, usually in the form of property, although the reality is that both sides of the family will contribute
towards the couples first home.
Holy Monastery of St
Nicholas of the Cats
On the edge of the salt lake, between
Akrotiri Village and Ladys Mile Beach.
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Amathous Archaeological
Area
On the main coast road west out of
Limassol, before the Atlantica Bay
Hotel.
Page 109
Top Museums
Limassol Medieval Museum
Inside the Medieval Castle, inland
from the Old Port, b 25 330 419.
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Carob Museum
Vasilissis Street, behind the Medieval
Castle.
110
Page 110
Child-friendly Tours
Day Trips
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Boat Trips
Regency Travel, b 25 320 905, www.
regency-travel.com.
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Page 112
Mini Cruises
Louis Cruise Lines, www.louis
cruises.com; Salamis Tours, b 25
860 000, www.salamis-tours.com.
Watermania: the biggest water park in Cyprus
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Page 113
INSIDER TIP
If youre in Cyprus for a long holiday, get a season ticket for
Watermania and save money. The
season ticket also gives you discounts in various restaurants in
Limassol and at the Aphrodite
Hills golf course.
Wet n Wild
LimassolNicosia Highway at
Mouttagiaka Juction, b 25 318 000,
E: [email protected].
113
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Evening Walk
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Cypriot Coffee
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Shopping
Limassol is probably the biggest
shopping centre on the island,
although the shops are fairly
spread out and there isnt a great
deal thats special to buy here.
Youll see many of the same shops
as in the UK; Dorothy Perkins,
M&S, Next, Debenhams,
Benetton, Zara and so on, as well
as designer stores like Karen
Millen and Fendi.
Whats different are the
prices. Although Cyprus has
become more expensive since
adopting the euro, its still less,
particularly the childrens
clothes, then in the UK.
Designer glasses are also amazingly cheap, so bring your prescription if you need a new pair.
The main shopping areas in
Limassol are on Anexartiatis and
Agiou Andreou (St Andrew)
Streets and Makarious III
Avenue, which encircles the centre of town.
Bear Factory
34 K. Partasidi, Shop 5, b 25 341 040.
Mitsu Mitsu
FIND
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b 99 775 426.
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FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
Limassol
EXPENSIVE
Londa
72 George A Street, Potamos
Yermasoyias, Yermasoyia; just east of
the centre of Limassol on the beach,
b 25 865 555, www.londacyprus.
com.
Family-friendly Accommodation
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Le Meridien Limassol
Old LimassolNicosia Road (at the far
end of the coast road leading east
from Limassol centre), b 25 862 000,
www.starwoodhotels.com.
Page 118
Four Seasons
Ag. Tychonas, on the main coast
road heading east from Limassol,
b 25 858 000, www.fourseasons.
com.cy.
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Amathus Beach
In the Amathus area on the main
coast road, 9 km from the city centre
b 25 832 000, www.amathushotels.com/limassol.
Family-friendly Accommodation
Page 119
MODERATE
Mediterranean Beach
In the Amathus area on the main
coast road, about 9 km from the city
centre, b 25 311 777, www.med
beach.com.
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Limassol Suburbs
INEXPENSIVE
Nikis House
Rodou 18, Mesa Geitonia, Lemesos,
b 25 888 000, www.agrotourism.
com.cy.
Family-friendly Accommodation
the land, eating vegetables, fruit and pulses, using ingredients including
pumpkin, cracked wheat, spinach and greens that grow wild.
At Easter, rather than stuffing themselves with chocolate, Cypriots
make a special soup of eggs and lemon in chicken stock, as well as
savoury Easter cakes. Lunch on the Orthodox Easter Sunday is a time
when the meat fast is broken and families gather in their gardens to
roast huge souvlaki on their barbecues.
Summer, when most visitors are likely to be on the island, is a fantastic time for soft fruit and you should have no problem getting your children to eat cherries, apricots, plums, and juicy peaches and melons
which you will see piled high by the roadside.
September is more about drinking and eating as this is the traditional
time for the wine harvest and a lot of people flock to Limassol for the
enormous Wine Festival. Shortly after this comes harvest time when youll
see a lot of dishes featuring almonds, carobs and olives. Try to get your
children to try pastelli and carob honey on their toast instead of Nutella!
At Christmas, Cypriots dont eat turkey but instead slaughter a pig
and even families living in urban areas will make and smoke their own
special sausages, called loukanika. Cypriot Christmas cake will look
more familiar, as its very similar to ours, but if you are spending
Christmas on the island also look out for kourambiedes biscuits like
shortbread sprinkled with icing sugar and spicy buns which are draped
with honey syrup.
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Villages
INEXPENSIVE
Vouni Lodge
27 Makariou Street, Vouni, b 22 323
385, www.agrotourism.com.cy.
Page 122
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
Limassol Town
EXPENSIVE
Caprice at Londa
72 George A Street, Yermasogia, b 25
865 555, www.londahotel.com.
Barolo
248 Ayiou Andreou, Limassol, b 25
760 767.
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Family-friendly Dining
Beige
238 St Andrews Street, b 25 818 860.
Mavroumatis
AGES AND UP
Stretto
Lanatis Carob Mill, Vasilissis (behind
the castle in Limassol old town),
b 25 820 465, www.carobmillrestaurants.com.
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Karatelo
Lanatis Carob Mill, Vasilissis (behind
the castle), b 25 820 46, www.carob
mill-restaurants.com.
Draught Microbrewery
Lanatis Carob Mill, Vasilissis (behind
the castle in the old town), b 25 820
470, www.carobmill-restaurants.
com.
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Limanaki
On the beach at the Amathus Hotel,
b 25 832 000, www.amathus-hotels.
com.
An award-winning upmarket
fish taverna right on the beach
and one of the nicest hotel
restaurants. The hotel is very
family-friendly and children are
welcome; as its outdoors, there
is plenty of space. Although the
restaurant has been created by
the hotel, it feels authentic and
the quality is fantastic. Either
have the meze or see what you
think of the days catch. Some
dishes have a classy twist, like
the stuffed kalamari.
Open Daily 8pm11pm summer only.
Main course From 17.50. Credit
MC V DC AE.
Ta Piatakia
Nicodemou Mylona 7, b 25 745 017.
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TGI Fridays
333 28th October Street, b 25 583
355.
Governors Beach
MODERATE
Panayotis
Governors Beach, b 99 633 258.
Family-friendly Dining
Page 125
Avdimou
MODERATE
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Pachna
MODERATE
Vouni
MODERATE
I Orea Ellas
FIND
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Vasa
MODERATE
Ariadne
On the Vasa old road, at the top of
the hill where the road joins the main
road leading into the village, b 25
944 064.
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6 The Troodos
Mountains
PAFOS
FOREST
PANO
VRYSI
MOUTTI TIS
ANGASTINAS
11
Kedares
E630
3
Agios
Nikolaos
Arsos
TSATTALOTOS
ATOFOULIA
Treis
Elies
E616
5 2
Pedoulas
Mandria
Kato
Platres
Foini
Pano
Platres
1
4
5
B8
E802
B8
Koilani
Pera
Pedi
Kouka
Agridia
2 km
2 mi
E 806
Agros
Polystypos
F945
Dining
Platania Picnic Site 1
Mill Hotel + restaurant, Kakopetria and
Linos Inn/Mesostrato Restaurant 2
Psilo Dendro Restaurant 3
Skylight Caf 4
Ambelothea 5
Potamitissa
Dymes
PITSILIA
E 907
Chandria
Lagoudera
area of
detail
CY PR U S
Kyperounta
Amiantos
Accommodation
Forest Park Hotel 1
Marjay Inn 2
Jubilee Hotel 3
Rodon Hotel 4
E 801
Spilia
E909
ADELFOI
FOREST
KREMMOS
TIS KERAMIS
TROODOS
SQUARE
B9
B9
Kakopetria
Galata
TROODOS
6
12
13
TROODOS
RESORT
F952
TOODOS
FOREST
PERA-PEDI
F O R E S T Moniatis
Palaiomylos
Prodromos
Lemithou
Omodos
E601
Moutoullas
E908
Agios
Dimitrios
E912
LOUVARKA
KATSARI
Kaminaria
TRIPODI
Mylikouri
E912
6:25 PM
Filousa
Praitori
10
MARATHASA
Oikos
Gerakies
Kalopanagiotis
9/8/08
Attractions
Troodos Visitor Centre 1
Monastery of the Holy Cross,
Omodhos/Socrates Traditional
House/Stou Kir Yianni 2
Arsos/Folk Art Museum/
Six Fountains Trail 3
Caledonia Falls 4
Mylomeris Falls 5
Mount Olympus 6
Persephone Trail 7
Cedar Valley 8
Trooditissa Monastery 9
Kykkos Monastery 10
Venetian Bridge 11
Artemis trail 12
Atalanta Trail 13
128
CEDAR VALLEY
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coast, where the only sound is the wind whistling in the trees or the
splash of waterfall. Theres very little development here: the mountains are scattered with villages but there isnt any mass tourism.
What you will find is beautiful walking trails, enormous monasteries
crammed full of the most amazing treasures, vineyards clinging to
steep slopes, and, in winter, skiing on the slopes of Mount Olympus,
1,951 m above sea level.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
VISITOR
INFORMATION
Orientation
The Troodos can be quite confusing, as the region is mountainous, spread out and has no
real centre of population. Its
easiest if you imagine it with
Mount Olympus (the highest
point) at the centre, with Troodos
Resort on its slopes and slightly
lower down from here, the two
Platres villages, Pano Platres and
Kato Platres.
To the north-west is the
Marathasa Valley and west of this,
Kykkos Monastery and Cedar
Valley. Due north is Solea Valley
and the village of Kakopetria,
while to the east is the Pitsilia
area. Finally, on the southern
slopes, youll find the famous
wine-growing villages, Omodhos,
Arsos and Mandria.
Visitor Information
T
To visitors, they are a constant source of
amazement. This is a different world from the hustle and bustle of the
Getting Around
Bus services to the Troodos
region are sketchy at best. There
are long-distance buses from
Larnaca and Nicosia but only
one in each direction per day.
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1 Taking a dip
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7 Picking fruit
0 Learning
Mountain Resorts
Kato Platres and
Pano Platres
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Time Off
Cypriots do not share the same love of the beach and the outdoors
as the holidaymakers to whom they play host. Many will be happy to live
in an apartment in town rather than a suburban house with a garden.
Anything more than a 10-minute commute is jokingly referred to as a
long distance, so urban living is popular. Gardening is definitely not on;
rather than cultivate flowers, a city-dwelling Cypriot will probably buy a
plot in the countryside for growing olives, pomegranates, oranges and
lemons to squeeze over the souvlaki.
Typical Cypriots interests, generally speaking, include the village
caf/pub, backgammon and chess for men, particularly of the older
generation and family life, shopping and home-making among women.
Football is a passion, with many staunch supporters of British teams on
the island. Families will go on outings at the weekend, either to the
beach, or to Akamas Peninsula if they live in the west, or to the Troodos
Mountains, usually for a big picnic.
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FUN FACT
INSIDER TIP
Watch out for the confusing road
signs around the Troodos, which
may offer several different ways
of getting to the same place!
Wicked Rock
Kakopetria means wicked rock although the origin of the name isnt
known. A local myth, however, says that a young couple were killed by a rock
that fell on them during an earthquake, the tragedy giving rise to the name.
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FUN FACT
Souvenirs in Omodhos
Warm Welcome
In Greek Cyprus, the word for stranger (xenos) also means guest,
providing linguistic evidence of Cyprus warm hospitality.
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Cyprus was famous in antiquity for its copper resources and the
copper gave the island its name, Kypros, thought to be a pre-Greek
word for the metal (the Anglicised version comes from the Latin,
cuprum). Copper was mined in the Bronze Age on the north slope of the
Troodos Mountains from certain vantage points, you can still see the
old quarries that have been exploited over the millennia.
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Caledonia Falls
ALL AGES
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ALL AGES
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ALL AGES
Trooditissa Monastery
5 km north-west of Platres on the
PlatresProdromos Road.
Fire: Beware
The Troodos forests are very prone to fire in the hot, dry summer
months. Be really careful what you throw away; never leave a glass bottle, for example, where it can catch the sun and never discard cigarettes
in the mountains. If you do notice a fire or smoke, dial 1407.
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Kykkos Monastery
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INSIDER TIP
The Venetian bridges of Cyprus
are featured on one of the tougher
nature trails, Enetika Gefyria. This
is a 17-km linear trail that incorporates the medieval bridges of Elia,
Kefelos and Roydia, but its not
suitable for small children
stronger teenagers, maybe! It is
strikingly beautiful and virtually
free of tourists. More details from
the Department of Forests, www.
moa.gov.cy.
Page 141
Top Museums
Socrates Traditional
House FIND
In the village of Omodhos.
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Child-friendly Tours
Troodos 4x4 excursions
Ascot Tours uses jeeps and has fun,
well-informed drivers, b 25 329 388,
www.ascotrentacar.com.
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Troodos Hikes
GREEN
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Artemis Trail
Atalanta Trail
AGES 8 AND UP
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Snakes in Cyprus
Cyprus has eight species of snake, three of which are poisonous and
one of which, the blunt-nosed viper, should be avoided as its dangerous. Snakes are very shy and wont attack unless provoked; theyre
more likely to slither away when they hear you coming. If one rears up
and hisses at you, stand completely still easier said than done.
Personally, I think its an honour to see a live snake in the wild, although
anyone who finds them lurking by a swimming pool at night might not
agree (keep the pool lights on if youre worried). It is, incidentally,
extremely rare to get bitten by a snake in Cyprus.
These are the venomous ones:
Cat snake (Telescopus tallax cyprianus) Up to about 80 cm. Has a
broad flat head, vertical slit eyes and large scales on the forehead.
The snake is beige, brown or green, with a diamond-like pattern
along its back.
Montpellier snake (Malpolon monspessulanus insignitus) Has large
round, lidded eyes. Markings are yellow stripes or spots on brown
in young snakes and plain grey or olive in adults, with a yellowish
underbelly. It kills like a cobra does, rising up off the ground and
striking quickly. Its bite isnt fatal, but you should get medical help
immediately if bitten.
Blunt-nosed viper (Macrovipera l.lebetina cypriensis) A bigger
snake, up to 130 cm and as thick as an adults arm. Sandy in colour
Livadi Trail
ALL AGES
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AGES 12 AND UP
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Non-venomous snakes:
The Large Whip snake (Coluber jugularis) Big and alarming-looking,
but not harmful and the most common of Cypriot snakes. Olivebrown as a juvenile, turning blue black in maturity with lighter shading under the head. Up to 2.5 m long. This snake eats blunt-nosed
vipers! It also climbs trees to raid birds nests.
Worm snake (Typhlops vermicularis) Pinky-brown in colour, like a
big worm, only 30 cm long. Hides under rocks.
Cyprus Whip snake (Coluber cypriensis) The only reptile unique to
Cyprus. Starts life beige with a pale pink underside, turning olive
green and then black in maturity, with a green tinge.
Cyprus Grass snake (Natrix natrix cypriaca) A more ordinary-looking
snake, ranging from light brown to black, with no distinguishing
markings. It swims well, eats frogs and fish and can emit an unholy
stink if frightened. Its highly endangered so youre unlikely to see
one.
Coin snake (Coluber nummifer) The markings of this snake are very
similar to the venomous blunt-nosed viper. You can tell the difference by its bigger head with large scales, round pupils and tapering
tail. Its body is shinier, too.
Shopping
The Troodos is a wonderful
region in which to shop for traditional handicrafts and products
with a blunt nose. You dont want to get bitten by this one but the
chances of seeing one are extremely slim.
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Traditional Sweets
Page 146
Tsiakkas Winery
Off the E806, before Pelendri village,
b 25 992 080.
Kafkalia Ltd
Agros village, b 25 521 426.
Cash only.
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
Platres
EXPENSIVE
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Kakopetria
MODERATE
Family-friendly Accommodation
Page 147
Rooms 13. Rates From 41 per person per night, B&B. Credit MC V.
Amenities Restaurant, bar, mountain
bikes.
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Linos Inn
34 Paleo Kakopetria Street, b 22 923
161. www.linos-inn.com.cy
Spilia
MODERATE
Marjay Inn
Spilia, b 22 922 208, www.marjay.
com.
148
Page 148
Omodhos
MODERATE
FIND
Troodos
MODERATE
Jubilee Hotel
On the E910 just north of Troodos
Square, b 25 420 10, www.jubilee
hotel.com.
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Rooms 37. Rates From 35 per person per night, B&B. Credit MC V.
Amenities Bar, caf, bicycle hire,
summer camp programme for
children.
Agros
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
Family-friendly Dining
Page 149
INSIDER TIP
In towns and rural areas, look for
tavernas with a Vakhis certificate.
Vakhis was a famous chef who
lived on the island in 300 AD and
these certificates are a sign that
the restaurant is deemed by the
CTO as being authentic and traditional, using local ingredients to
prepare seasonal dishes.
MODERATE
GREEN
Platres
MODERATE
Psilo Dendro
Off the main road above Platres at
the foot of the Caledonia Trail, b 25
813 131.
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INEXPENSIVE
Skylight Caf
Pano Platres, b 25 422 244.
Page 150
Omodhos
MODERATE
Kakopetria
Taverna Ambelothea
b 25 421 366.
MODERATE
Mesostrato Taverna
Palaias Kakopetrias 47, Kakopetria,
b 22 924 700.
Mill Hotel
Milos Street 7, Kakopetrias, b 22 922
536.
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7 Larnaca
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Page 152
LARNACA
Leoforos Gkiani Timagia
Rig
Ekv
a Fe
raio
u
Priam
on
atan
ou
Pe
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uK
yprian
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ou
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10
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i
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c
r
A
s
o
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Kim
ono
s
o
fkr
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Kouriou
ono
La
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2
anc
is
Artemid
SALT LAKE
PARK
Okullar
Istanbul
Ipeirou
Leoforos
a Fr
Koca Tepe
Mediterranean
Sea
Umm Haram
Tuz
h
Piyale Pasa
ane
GRAFTSMEN
AREA
Leoforos
Fishing
Shelter
ido
em
Art
152
Dining
Varashiotis Seafood Restaurant 1
Black Turtle 2
Militzes 3
TGI Fridays 4
1900 Art Caf 5
TURKISH
AREA
os
Attractions
Larnaca Marina 1
Finkoudis Beach Promenade 2
Salt Lake 3
Palaeontology Museum at
The Municipal Cultural Centre 4
Municipal Museum of Natural History 5
Agios Lazarus Church 6
Old Fort 7
Turkish Quarter 8
Pierides Museum 9
Ancient Kition 10
LAIKI
GEITONIA
Mehmet Ali
niv
Ag
iou
4
9
Zenon
Stadium
Oth
An
Marina
mo
ileos
Leoforos Faneromenis
Anstan
Afxentiou
Sty
lian
ou
A pos
Sta
tolidi
dio
u
Vas
tou
ros Aigyp
Leofo
Leonidou
Dig
eni
s Grigori
Er
Ody
sse
os
oro
Leof
Diogenous
Geo
rgio
uG
riva
Harbour
Kalograion
Zinonos Kitieous
iou
Markou D kou
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ia
pr
Ky
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Kilkis
Stavr
odr
om
fka
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Larnaka
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CY P R
RU
US
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Valdas
Pavlou
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3
ite
Gka
1000 ft
N
0
250 m
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Page 153
dry and dusty in the summer, and its waterfront lined with palm trees
and the minarets of mosques piercing the otherwise low-lying skyline.
Larnaca serves many purposes. It has a large expatriate community,
not all of them British, although Brits are attracted to the sunny climate and the fact that Larnaca has a slightly more authentically
Cypriot feel than places like Paphos. Several foreign consulates are
located here, as its more accessible and a bit cooler than Nicosia, the
capital, and quite a few people who work in Nicosia choose to live in
and around Larnaca and commute.
Why stay here? Well, there are several excellent family hotels to
which people return year after year. The town centre has a certain
buzz and a wide sandy beach flanked by a long pedestrian promenade,
not dissimilar to something you might find in the south of France.
The beaches of Ayia Napa and Protaras are an easy day trip away and
inland are some of the most beautiful and unspoilt villages on the
island.
There is a certain poignancy about the area. Here, more than anywhere else, you can see the devastation caused by the 1974 Turkish
invasion. Whole villages which used to be Turkish have been deserted,
their mosques standing lonely and forlorn.
Although Larnaca has an interesting and colourful history, its
archaeological sites cant compare to those of Paphos. Whats more, its
natural attractions are limited.
What you will find, though, are friendly people and a good international mix of tourists. It also has a drier climate than in the west,
which can be an advantage if youre travelling with your family outside the main summer season.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Air Larnaca International
Airport is the islands main point
of entry, served by flights from all
over Europe. The airport is situated to the west of the town by
the Salt Lake and has a motorway
connection to Limassol and on to
Paphos and Nicosia. From the airport to the hotels around Larnaca
Bay takes about 20 minutes.
Essentials
T
The
town sprawls around a wide bay and has a faintly Middle Eastern feel,
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VISITOR
INFORMATION
Orientation
Larnaca town is fairly easy to
navigate although there is a cluster of small, winding streets at
the centre and some complicated
one-way systems. If you get lost,
just head for the waterfront. The
airport is to the west of the town
and the main area of hotels to
the east of the bay. The best
town beach stretches from the
old fort which is by the oldest
part of the town to the yacht
marina and is called Finikoudes
promenade.
Getting Around
Larnaca has a fairly good bus
system. Buses 22 and 24 regularly run to the airport and at
the eastern end of the main
promenade by the yacht marina
there is a terminal for the intercity buses, which serve Limassol
and Nicosia. Just a little further
from here, past the post office, is
the terminal for PEAL buses,
which operate into the Troodos
154
Page 154
Kataklysmos
Kataklysmos is a uniquely
Cypriot Festival celebrated all
over the island but nowhere
more so than Larnaca. The word
actually means flood, and the
six-day celebration combines the
Orthodox holiday of Pentecost
with commemoration of the
Great Flood described in the
book of Genesis in the Bible.
There are all sorts of events
related to water from sailing
regattas to swimming contests,
as well as dance, drama and
poetry readings. Fairgrounds set
up all along the seafront in
Larnaca and there is a general
holiday atmosphere, culminating
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Kypria Festival
halloumi
and help the villagers harvest
oranges and olives with Cyprus
Villages. See p. 165.
3 Learning to make
Page 155
6 Cycling
7 Choosing
a pedalo or trying
a banana boat ride in Larnaca
Bay. See p. 156.
8 Pedalling
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0 Trying to count
156
Page 156
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Lefkara
Page 157
Kalavasos
FIND
157
7 Larnaca
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158
Page 158
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Page 159
Camel Park
FIND
AGES 5 AND UP
159
7 Larnaca
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160
Page 160
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Kition
Choirokoitia
AGES 5 AND UP
Page 161
Tenta
Signposted from Tochni and
Kalavassos.
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time believed to have accommodated about 150 people in circular mud and stone structures,
some flat-roofed and some
round-roofed. Although the village is close to Choirokoitia, its
inhabitants had different burial
practices, rather casually leaving
their dead outside the houses,
where skeletons have been found
amidst the household waste.
Open 10am4pm, MonFri.
Admission 1.28.
Stavrovouni Monastery
162
Page 162
Top Museums
Pierides Museum
AGES 5 AND UP
Archaeological Museum
On the seafront promenade, b 24
630 169.
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Page 163
Traditional Museum of
Embroidery and Silver
Smithing
163
7 Larnaca
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Child-friendly Tours
Walking Tours of Larnaca
164
Page 164
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GREEN
Page 165
Shopping
Larnaca has a decent array of
shops, although theyre spread all
over the town. Youll see labels
like Mango, Fendi, Diesel and
more prosaically, Marks &
Spencer. If there is one main
shopping street, its Zenon
Kitieos, which crosses Ermou,
another good location. Here,
there are masses of jewellery
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Tolerance
Racism is an extremely sensitive subject in Cyprus. On an island
famed for its hospitality, xenophobia has no place. But Cypriots have
enormous national pride and the very essence of the country the famous
Cypriot hospitality is being undermined in the eyes of many by the need
to import foreign workers. Ten years ago, all the workers in a hotel would
be Cypriot. Today, theyre from Russia, Bulgaria, Romania and any number of other, mainly East European countries, as are labourers on building
sites and petrol pump attendants. Now that Cyprus is a member of the
EU, the foreign workforce is likely to expand further. Some Cypriots openly
express dismay about this but the jobs need to be filled.
Theres also an ongoing problem of the ingrained suspicion and in
places, hatred, of Turkey. Having said this, though, Turkish Cypriots do
live in the southern part of the island in villages alongside Greek
Cypriots. There is a genuine desire to solve the Turkish problem.
Visitors should find Cyprus a conservative and patriotic but essentially
easygoing, friendly place to visit.
Page 166
Emria Pottery
13 Mehmet Ali Street, b 24 623 952.
Koukli
26 Filiou Zanetou Street, b 24 655
627.
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Kornos Pottery
2 Agioplaston Street, Kornos, b 22
533 712.
Physis
Merica Building, 44 Hakket Street,
b 24 665 900.
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
Larnaca Voroklini
EXPENSIVE
Family-friendly Accommodation
Page 167
7 Larnaca
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Larnaca West
MODERATE
A laid-back three-star on
McKenzie Beach, handy for the
wide, sandy strip and beach
facilities. Theres a rooftop swimming pool, restaurant, bar and
caf. All rooms have air conditioning. There are no childrens
facilities like a club, but the location is great for beach-loving
families who prefer to be out of
town a bit.
Rooms 64. Rates From 51 per person per night. Credit MC V DC AE.
Amenities Pool, bar, restaurant, caf,
video games.
168
Page 168
Larnaca Pervolia
MODERATE
Faros Village
Faros Avenue, Pervolia, b 24 422
111, www.farosvillage.com.
Pano Lefkara
MODERATE
Hotel Agora
b 24 342 901
A small hotel in the village centre set around a leafy garden and
pool, with tables in its restaurant
overlooking the street. Theres a
cosy lounge with books and
PlayStation. Stay here and soak
up the atmosphere of the village
after the tour buses have gone.
Rooms 19. Rates From around 60
per room per night. Credit MC V.
Amenities Swimming pool, babysitting, restaurant, bar with fireplace.
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Choirokoitia
INEXPENSIVE
Family-friendly Accommodation
Page 169
Rooms Six suites, two interconnecting. Each one sleeps three plus cot.
Rates From 60 per studio per
night. Credit MC V. Amenities Fully
equipped kitchens, private bathrooms, pool with towels provided.
Tochni
INEXPENSIVE
169
7 Larnaca
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Kalavasos
INEXPENSIVE
Takis House
GREEN
170
Page 170
Agioi Vavatsinias
INEXPENSIVE
Pavlis House
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
Larnaca
EXPENSIVE
Varoshiotis Seafood
7 Piyale Pasha Street, b 24 655 865.
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TGI Fridays
Athinon Avenue 38 42, b 24 816 666.
Family-friendly Dining
Page 171
Black Turtle
Mehmet Ali 11, b 24 650 661.
Militzes Restaurant
Piyale Pasha 42, b 24 655 867.
INEXPENSIVE
Tochni
MODERATE
Tochni Tavern
7 Larnaca
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Kato Drys
Zygi
MODERATE
Captains Table
Grigoris Afxentiou 28 b 24 333 737.
172
MODERATE
Platanos Taverna
Kato Drys, 10 minutes from Lefkara,
b 24 342 160.
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POTAMOS
A3
TROULLOS
TOU SKORTOU
E348
Dam
Sotira
3
E304
Seasonal
Lake
3
2
Dam
Agia Napa
E327
E324
KAMPOS
SKOUTARI
Paralimni
Mediterranean
Sea
E305
A3
KATAKOILA
F316
E306
KAPPARIS
LIMNARA
STRONGYLOVOUNARO
APISSOTOU
KONNOS
E307
NATIONAL
FOREST PARK
MAZERA
E306
Protaras
Bay
area of
detail
PROTARAS
PERNERA
AKEFALOU
E306
XEROPOTAMOS
CY P R
RU
US
SOUGLA
0
2 km
Dining
Misohoro Snack Bar 1
Demetrion 2
To Ploumin 3
Accomodation
Aeneas Resort 1
Adams Beach Hotel 2
So Nice 3
1 mi
Attractions
Makronisos Beach 1
Landa Beach 2
Nissi Beach/Bungee Downunder 3
Konnos Bay 4
Cape Greco 5
Palatia, or the Palaces (Sea Caves) 6
Waterworld 7
Kryo Nero Beach 8
6:27 PM
LIMNIA
Liopetri
E333
TERATSOUDI
E305
Frenaros
KAMINI
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E307
174
E306
E329
E305
Deryneia
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dotted with windmills, and soft, sandy beaches fringing bays of amazingly aquamarine water.
People come here for sun and fun, packing out the hundreds of
nightclubs and bars, dancing till dawn and sleeping off their hangovers on the beach for most of the next day. In fact, early morning is
the best time to get a spot on any of the beaches as most visitors under
30 are still in bed.
The area was really only developed for tourism after the Turkish
invasion of 1974, when the much nicer beaches of Famagusta to the
north were suddenly cut off, depriving the island of its main resort.
The small fishing village of Ayia Napa grew and grew, sprawling as far
as the British military base to the west and the beautiful and remote
Cape Greco to the east. Meanwhile, the inland town of Paralimni
began to extend its own tentacles to the coast as the beach resort of
Protaras began to grow.
The explosion in cheap package holidays and the rise of the clubbing scene of the late 1990s, combined with a string of TV reality
shows starring Ayia Napa and its excesses all led to the rise of the
resorts fame. Unfortunately, the publicity wasnt all good and Ayia
Napa developed a reputation as a place dragged down by lager louts,
assisted by the bad behaviour of some British squaddies, who were
eventually banned from the bars and clubs. Nowadays, things are marginally quieter, and the scandals are fewer and further between, partly
due to the Cypriot governments zero tolerance of drugs.
In my opinion, the best time for families to come to this area is
early and late season, so April/May and September/October, when its
less crowded, the locals are in a better mood and you can still enjoy
fantastic sunshine and make the most of the beautiful beaches.
If youve got very young children and want nothing more than to
splash around in the shallows, you probably wont stray very far, but
if youre feeling slightly more adventurous, you can enjoy the best of
both worlds and have plenty of beach time combined with a few forays inland towards the Troodos, Nicosia, Larnaca and some of the hill
villages.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Air The nearest airport is
Essentials
T
and more peaceful resorts of the west, although it does
have a beauty of its own, with a rather arid landscape of deep red soil
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VISITOR
INFORMATION
The CTO office in Ayia Napa
is at Leoforos Kryou Nerou 12,
b 23 721 796. Theres also an office
in Protaras, at Leoforos Protara,
Kavo Gkreko 356, b 23 832 865.
If youve got time, pick up maps
first at Larnaca airport theres a
booth there and you will need a
local map if youre renting a car.
Orientation
176
Page 176
Getting Around
Public transport in Ayia Napa is
not very good, although you can
use local buses. There are regular
direct buses to and from Larnaca
and one a day to Nicosia,
although its timings are not
great for a day trip as the return
bus leaves mid-afternoon. Buses
(b 23 821 318) run on the hour
to Protaras and Paralimni and all
of them leave from the bus stop
between the square and the harbour at Leoforos Makariou III
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1 Hanging on tight
or just watching
the madcap activities on the
Slingshot and the Skycoaster. See
p. 188.
2 Trying out
3 Cooling off
at the waterpark.
See p. 188.
4 Getting up close to the
in the hills.
See p. 187.
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in the shallow
water of Nissi Beach. See p. 179.
6 Paddling
in the
clear water off Konnas Beach.
See p. 180.
7 Learning to snorkel
to Cape Greco to
admire the view. See p. 184.
9 Cycling
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Page 179
Nissi Beach
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180
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Page 181
things on the beach and restaurants serving international cuisine with little concession to the
fact that youre on the island of
Cyprus.
Having said this, the beaches
are good, the sea is clean and
you cant fault the climate. If
youre just looking for an undemanding beach holiday and are
not that bothered about seeing
the real Cyprus, Protaras should
fulfil your needs.
Fig Tree Bay
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Ayia Triada
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Page 183
Have you fallen in love with Cyprus? Some 50,000 Brits love the
island so much that they have made it their permanent home. They represent a sizeable chunk of the overall population, which is only 788,000.
Its not just retired people who move to Cyprus. Plenty of young families emigrate to start a new life in the sun, attracted by the climate, the
friendly people, the healthier lifestyle and the property prices, which are
lower than those in the UK (although higher than in some other sunny
destinations).
Popular enclaves where Brits buy houses include Pissouri, Tala,
Mandria and Oroklini as well as the suburbs of the main resort towns.
There are international schools in Larnaca, Nicoisa, Limassol and
Paphos, all of a good standard, and plenty of local schools if you want to
try immersing your children in the Greek language.
A property purchase is a big impulse buy, though! If you are serious
about buying and moving to Cyprus, there are several golden rules.
Come back several times to see the island at different times of year.
Shop around extensively. Do not be sucked into the estate agents
hosted inspection trips, where your expenses are paid but theres a
very heavy sell. Think about where you want to live urban or rural? Do
you want a pool? Modern house or stone-built villa?
Talk to local expats, look at schools and think about what you might
do to earn a living. With the right permits, you can certainly work here
but make sure your skills would be needed.
Finally, never buy property in the north without a thorough understanding of title deeds and sound legal advice to go with it. There are
huge legal implications concerning land ownership prior to the Turkish
invasion of 1974 and when the island is eventually reunified, you could
have a battle on your hands to prove that your dream home actually
belongs to you.
Dherinia
Living in Cyprus
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Palatia
Page 185
Top Museums
Thalassa Museum
FIND
AGES 5 AND UP
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186
6:27 PM
AGES 5 AND UP
Child-friendly Tours
Essentially, you can get anywhere
from the east, including Paphos
and Akamas (see chapter 3), but
its quite a long way. With children, the best bet is tours to
Nicosia, the Troodos, the north
and maybe Larnaca. I wouldnt
suggest Paphos from here unless
you want to start your day with a
two-hour transfer.
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Famagusta Half-Day
Eman Tours, 32A Makarios Avenue,
Ayia Napa, b 23 721 321, www.
emantravel.com.
Catamaran Cruises
Interyachting, Protaras, b 25 811
900, www.interyachting.com.cy.
Troodos Excursions
Page 187
187
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Thrill Rides
AGES 13 AND UP
Page 188
WaterWorld
18 Ayia Thekla, Ayia Napa, b 23 724
444.
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AGES 4 AND UP
Undersea Walk
Page 189
Cycle Hire
Rainbow Rentals, 46 Nisiou Avenue,
Tequila Block A, Shop 3 Ayia Napa,
b 23 721 878.
AGES 8 AND UP
Shopping
Ayia Napa and Protaras are
packed with shops but it tends
to be lots of the same. Endless
jewellery stores sell gold and
189
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FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
190
Page 190
Ayia Napa
EXPENSIVE
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MODERATE
So Nice
103 Nissi Avenue, b 23 723 010,
www.sonice.com.cy.
Family-friendly Accommodation
Page 191
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Protaras
EXPENSIVE
Grecian Park
Page 192
MODERATE
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for children and prepare for fantastic sizzling fajitas and huge vats
of frozen strawberry margaritas.
Theres a huge choice and a
decent childrens menu with miniportions of fajitas, ribs and tacos.
Book ahead as its always busy.
Open Daily 5.30pm11pm. Main
course From 8.55. Credit MC V.
Family-friendly Dining
Page 193
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
EXPENSIVE
Umi
FIND
Los Bandidos
Aris Velouchiotis 2, b 23 723 258,
www.losbandidosmexican.com.
INEXPENSIVE
Cappuccino Inn
FIND
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Potamos
MODERATE
Demetrion
Liopetri river, at Potamos on the beach,
b 23 991 010, www.marjay.com.
Page 194
Sotira
MODERATE
To Ploumin
28 October 3, Sotira, b 23 730 444.
Dherynia
INEXPENSIVE
Protaras
MODERATE
Il Cavaliere
Pernera 6, b 23 831 022.
For Italian dishes, this is the perfect family restaurant childfriendly with a childrens menu,
fresh-baked pizza, play area and
cartoons showing. Its not just
pizza and pasta there are
regional Italian meat dishes, too,
and plenty for vegetarians.
Open Daily 6pm11pm. Main course
Around 10. Credit MC V. Amenities
Childrens menu, play area.
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9 Nicosia
Page 195
200 m
1000 ft
and
rou
o
for
Leo Me
n
I
rou
ago
v
sE
Apollonos
Rig
ain
is
Stas
ikrat
ou
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is
ino
andro
u Alex
Mega
lo
Ars
oros
Leof
Them
seio
orou
7
8
ou
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III
rou
and
Stas
12
Onisilou
8
5
Ermou
Aposto
Varnav lou
a
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11
Lidinis
Leoforos K. Palaiologou
ylou
s Stas
Leoforo
Lefk
on
o
sk
op
ou
M
ak
ari
nos
Chilo
nos
ous
MUNICIPAL
yro
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ikle
Per
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ros
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for
os
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ym
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GARDEN
MUNICIPAL
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im
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nd
Le
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mo
Am
tas
S
os
ise
os
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o
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oros
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ok
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of
o
Le
Nicosia
to
ita
nis
kr
CY PR U S
Kritis
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alda
nos
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do
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m
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o
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ie p
anor
Diag
ch
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os
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inis
Riga
of
Le
llip
os
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i
oup
Trik
K
os
or
of
Le
Arn
s
eo
Ar
Accommodation
Holiday Inn 1
Classic 2
Dining
Varioshiotis Seafood Restaurant 1
Agaio 2
Zanettos 3
Mondo 4
Abu Faysal 5
I Gonia tou Anastasi 6
Seiko 7
Maze 8
Marzano 9
Attractions
Laiki Yitonia 1
Ledra Museum Observatory 2
Paphos Gate 3
Hamam Omeriye 4
Agios Ioannis Cathedral 5
Cyprus Museum 6
Ethnographic Museum 7
Archbishop Makarios III
Foundation 8
CTO office (starting point of
free guided walks) 9
Chrysaliniotissa Crafts Center 10
Central Municipal Market 11
Open Air Market 12
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iA
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ige
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NICOSIA
oleos
istokli Dervi
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flingly hot in summer and the beaches are a long way away. There is,
however, a rich cultural heritage here and some excellent museums.
The restaurants are better than in the tourist resorts, as theyre aimed
at the local and business market, and the shopping is reasonable. For
most, the reason to visit is to nip across into the north, which
although easily accessible nowadays, still has an air of mystery about it
and a sense of a different culture, with minarets piercing the skyline,
Turkish coffee shops and bustling street markets as well as fine
Ottoman and Lusignan architecture.
Nicosia at first glance is a sprawling, dusty city, its inner sector
enclosed by a fine sandstone ramparts built by the Venetians in the
16th century. Its here that you are most likely to spend a day with
your family, and all the main sights are fairly close together.
If you do stay in the capital longer or are here on business with your
family, there is an increasing amount of green space for citizens to play
in. The Acropolis Park at the junction of Akropoleos and Athalassis is
being developed and has picnic areas, while the green space along the
Pedaios River, which flows southnorth along the western flank of the
old city, is being turned into cycle and walking paths.
ESSENTIALS
Getting There
By Air The nearest airport is
Visitor Information
VISITOR
INFORMATION
The CTO office in Nicosia is at
Aristokyprou 11, in Laiki
Yitonia, just east of Plateia
Eleftherias, b 22 674 264. If
youve got time, however, pick
up maps at Larnaca airport
theres a CTO booth there and
you will need a local map if
youre renting a car.
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Orientation
Youll enter Nicosia (coming
from Larnaca) through the new
city, along wide boulevards lined
with trees and low-rise office
blocks. The old city is encircled
by huge ramparts, bisected in
many places by roads. Its epicentre is Plateia Eleftherias in the
south-west, behind which is the
pedestrian zone. Gardens and
the occasional car park line the
outside of the walls. You can, of
course, drive inside the walls and
there is parking here, but Id recommend walking as much as
your children will tolerate
because theres lots of one-way
roads and its very confusing.
The car parks outside the walls
are the most convenient.
The Green Line (known outside the city as the Attila Line)
effectively chops Nicosia in half,
a long string of sheet-metal barriers, coiled barbed wire and oil
drums. You can walk its length
through the old city (see p. 204)
although I only recommend this
with older children as young
Balloons for sale in Nicosia
198
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Getting Around
Within the old walled city, walking is the best way to get around.
There are urban buses but these
tend to radiate out towards the
suburbs and its not likely that a
family on a regular holiday
would use them. Inter-urban
buses operate from different bus
stations around the bastions.
ALEPA buses to Limassol and
Paphos leave from the Tripoli bastion, while EMAN buses for Ayia
Napa go from the Constanza bastion. Buses for Larnaca go from
Platiou Solomou.
Nicosia has plenty of taxis;
you can even book airport transfers online through www.cyprus
taxireservations.com.
Private taxis dont come in
any particular colour or make
but they always have a number
plate starting with T and some
have a yellow TAXI sign. Make
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INSIDER TIP
Nicosia is nowadays referred to
as Lefkosia, the Greek Cypriot
name for the city.
Horse Racing
7th8th Nov.
End of Sept.
Page 199
club.com.cy.
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around Athalassa
National Forest Park. See p. 204.
5 Cycling
6 Walking
8 Exploring
Page 200
breeding and products and sample the goods in the shop and
caf. Its similar to the ostrich
park near Pissouri (see p. 55)
worth it if your children need an
animal fix but less good for the
sensitive or vegetarian child as
there are ostrich burgers on offer!
Open Daily, 9am7pm MayOct;
9am5pm NovApril. Admission
1.71. Amenities Restaurant, shop.
ALL AGES
9 Visiting
to the Ledra
Museum Observatory and seeing
how many differences you can
spot between the north and the
south. See p. 205.
0 Climbing up
Reunification
The one thing all Cypriots have in common, which will crop up again
and again in conversation, is the conflict with Turkey over the northern
part of the island. Every family is affected by this, having either lost land
or relatives through the Turkish invasion 30 years ago. Everybody wants
to see the island reunified, but as far as Greek Cypriots are concerned, it
must be on their terms. In a UN referendum held in April 2004 concerning reunification of the island, 76 % of Greek Cypriots voted against,
while 65 % of Turkish Cypriots were for an undivided island. The debate
continues.
200
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Laiki Yitonia
Nicosia Districts
Laiki Yitonia
ALL AGES
ALL AGES
201
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ALL AGES
202
Page 202
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Page 203
Pera
Surrounding Villages
The villages in the Nicosia district clinging to the southwestern slopes of the Troodos give a
real insight into Cypriot village
life as theyre virtually undiscovered by tourists, who rarely venture here. More settlements are
scattered across the Mesaoria
plain south of the city; winter
and spring are the best time to
visit, when the almond trees are
in blossom and the landscape
more gentle-looking and green.
Tamassos
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204
Page 204
AGES 5 AND UP
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Venetian Walls
ALL AGES
Page 205
Venetian Walls
205
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Page 206
FIND
AGES 13 AND UP
206
Top Museums
Cyprus Museum
FIND
AGES 5 AND UP
Mouseiou 1, Lefkosia.
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back to the sixth or seventh century BC and to have been created by a tribe embracing a
fertility cult. Youll also see beautiful gold jewellery and a display
of the islands mining heritage.
Open 8am4pm Tues, Wed, Fri;
8am5pm Thurs; 9am pm Sat;
10am1pm Sun. Admission 3.42.
Amenities Caf, museum shop.
Ethnographic Museum
AGES 5 AND UP
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ALL AGES
Extreme Park
AGES UP TO 10
b 22 674 264.
Child-friendly Tours
Because Nicosia is a destination
for tours rather than a base for
tourists, the usual tour companies dont tend to operate from
here. If you want to join a tour
to, say, Limassol or Akamas for
the day and you are staying in
Nicosia, you are best off driving
the short distance to Larnaca
and picking up a tour there.
Larnaca is centrally located and
tour operators offer days out from
here to the Troodos, Limassol,
the wine villages and the west,
although the latter would make a
long day for young children.
Page 209
Shopping
As you might expect, Nicosias
shopping is relatively good,
although if you come from a big
city, you still wont find it particularly special. Theres Debenhams
(big in Cyprus) containing a lot
of brands like Oasis, Morgan and
Miss Sixty; Marks & Spencer;
and a big range of individual
stores including Fendi, Gucci,
Mango, Max Mara, Max & Co
and Marina Rinaldi. For something a little different, look out
for the following:
Chrysaliniotissa Crafts Centre
Dimonaktos 2 (corner of Ipponaktos
and Dimonaktos Streets), b 22 348
050.
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Five Senses
Lydras Street 43.
Art Orange
Soufouli Street 6.
Page 210
Maja
Solonos 26.
Anemoessa
23 Pindarou Street and K. Skokou,
Shop 2A, www.anemoessa.com.cy.
210
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
ACCOMMODATION
Nicosia is a business city rather
than a holiday resort so tour
operators dont tend to feature it.
Hotel rates therefore seem rather
expensive, but these are the rack
rates the hotels are obliged to
quote to the Cyprus Tourism
Organisation for the annual official hotel guide. Youll find
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Family-friendly Accommodation
Nicosia
EXPENSIVE
Cyprus Hilton
Archbishop Makarios III Avenue, b 22
377 777, www.hilton.com.
211
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MODERATE
Classic
94 Rigenis Street, b 22 670 072,
www.classic.com.cy.
212
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INEXPENSIVE
Avli House
3 Markos Drakos, 2565 Lythrodontas,
b 23 842 000, www.agrotourism.
com.cy.
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MODERATE
Aigaio
Ektoros 40, b 22 433 297.
Family-friendly Dining
Zanettos
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DINING
Varoshiotis Seafood
Page 213
Mondo
Archbishop Makarios III Avenue 9a,
b 77 778 044
213
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Abu Faysal
Maze
Seiko
Stasikratous 26-28, b 77 777 375.
INEXPENSIVE
Marzano
Diagorou 27, b 22 663 240, www.
pizzaexpress.com.cy.
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10 History
10 History
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T
Historical relics are dotted all over the island and there
are many different eras and influences from the last 9,000 years that
children can have fun spotting.
216
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History
Page 217
217
10 History
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The Church
The church is extremely powerful in Cyprus and until the Turkish
invasion of 1974 was the biggest landowner. It still owns large tracts of
land today, much of it prime seafront plots devoted to agriculture.
Young people are encouraged to go to church and almost all marriages take place in church. Church attendance is, however, in decline
among younger Cypriots.
218
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History
219
10 History
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The Insider
The Insider
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learn some words and phrases! Learning the language is fun for children, too, and Cypriots will be charmed by their attempts to speak the
language.
GREEK PHRASES
If you are serious about learning,
there are numerous websites. I
like www.ilearngreek.com as it
has a section for children, with
flash cards, and a piece on
mythology. You can do a more
in-depth, free course at www.
kypros.org/LearnGreek/, a site
associated with CyBC, the
Cyprus Broadcasting Association,
or pick up some basic phrases for
free at www.bbc.co.uk/languages/
greek/.
There are plenty of books and
CDs on www.amazon.co.uk; Ive
tried (being a lazy sort) Teach
Yourself One-Day Greek by
Elisabeth Smith (4.19) and
have picked up a few phrases.
For children, visit the brilliant
site, www.omega-kids.co.uk for
Greek alphabet sponges, magnetic letters, flash cards, picture
and word books, learning mats
and games.
If all else fails for adults,
Learn Greek in 25 Years: A Crash
Course for the Linguistically
Challenged (6) by Athens-based
journalist Brian Church is a
witty, dry book about the intricacies of the Greek language
based on the authors newspaper
columns (although the book is
not specifically about Cyprus).
222
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Pronunciation, especially if
youve learned the Greek alphabet, is regular and unchanging.
Letters and letter combinations
are always pronounced the same.
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To get ahead:
Page 223
Transliterated as
Pronounced as in
lfa
a father
vta
v viper
gmma
g before , , , and
consonants
y before , ,
, , , ,
get
yes
ng before , , , or singer
thlta
th
psilon
e set
zta
z lazy
ta
i magazine
thta
th
ita
i magazine
kppa
k keep
lmtha
mi
y before a, o
yard, yore
leap
marry
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Alphabet
Transliterated as
Pronounced as in
ni
n never
ksi
ks taxi
micron
o bought
pi
ro
r round
sgma
s before vowels
or , , , , , ,
pet
say
z before , , ,
y before , , ,
224
taf
psilon
i magazine
laz
take
fi
fee
chi
psi
ps collapse
mega
o bought
Combinations
Transliterated As
Pronounced As In
get
ai
aisle
before vowels or
, , , , , , ,
av
Ave Maria
before , , , , , , , ,
af
pilaf
magazine
before vowels or
, , , , , , ,
ev
ever
before , , , , , , , ,
ef
left
at beginning of word
bane
in middle of word
mb
lumber
at beginning of word
dumb
in middle of word
nd
slender
magazine
oi
oil
ou
soup
dz
roads
ts
gets
magazine
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When youre asking for or about something and have to rely on single words or short
phrases, its an excellent idea to use sas parakal (if you please) to introduce or conclude
almost anything you say.
Airport
Aerothrmio
Avenue
Leofros
Bad
Bank
Trpeza
Tn logaryazm(n), parakal
Breakfast
Proin
Bus
Leoforo
Borte n mo pte?
Car
Amxi/ aftokinito
Cheap
Ft(h)in
Church
Ekklissa
Closed
Coast
Akt
Caf
Kafeno
Cold
Dinner
Vrathin
Milte Anglik?
Excuse me
Signmi(n)
Expensive
Akrivs, -, -*
Farewell!
Chro pol**
Good
Kals, l, l*
Goodbye
Ado or chrete**
Kalimra
Good evening
Kalispra
Good night
Kalinchta**
Hello!
Yssas or chrete!**
Here
Eth
Highchair
Psil kareklki
Hot
Hotel
Xenothocho**
T knete or Ps st(h)e?
How far?
Psso makri?
225
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How long?
Pso kni?
I am a vegetarian
me hortophgos
I am from London
me ap to Londino
Im sorry
Singnmi
I dont understand
Thn katalavno
Thlo n po st aerothrmio
(Dn) ne en dxi
Internet
Diadiktio
Left (direction)
Arister
Ladies room
Ghinekn
Lunch
Messimerian
Map
Chrtis**
Market (place)
Agor
Mens room
Andrn
Mr
Krios
Mrs
Kira
Miss
Despins
My name is . . .
Onomzome . . .
New
No
chi**
Old
Open
Ptisserie
Zacharoplasto**
Pharmacy
Pharmako
Parakal
Post office
Tachidromo**
Restaurant
Estiatrio
Toilet
T mros or I toualtta
Right (direction)
Dexi
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Shore
Parala
Square
Platea
Street
Ods
Stop (bus)
Stsi(s) (leoforou)
Telephone
Tilfono
Efcharist (pol)**
Today
Smera
Tomorrow
vrio
Travellers cheques
Taxidiotik epitag
Very nice
Very well
What?
T?
T ra ne?
Ps onomzest(h)e?
Where is . . . ?
Po ne . . . ?
Where am I?
Pou me?
Why?
Yat?
Saint
General Greetings
Kalimera
Kalispera
Kalinihta
herete (e as in egg)
Yassou
227
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Yassas
Adio
goodbye
Ela
Opa!
Watch out!
Kalo taxhidi
bon voyage.
Parakalo
please.
Efharisto
thank you.
Ne
yes.
Ohi
no.
Sighnomi
sorry.
Ti kanete?
Kala efharisto
Im well thanks.
Me lene....
My name is...
Milate anglika?
Katalaveno
I understand.
Dhen katalaveno
I dont understand.
Pou ine...?
Where is...?
Pote?
When?
Getting Around
228
Ti ora fevyi/
ftani to?
Aeroplano
Proti thesi
first class
How do I get to?
plane
Karavi
boat
Pou ine..?
Where is...?
Leoforio
bus
Ine konda?
Is it near?
Taxi
taxi
Efthia
straight ahead
Tha ithela
Id like
Aristera
left
Isitirio me
epistrofi
a return ticket
Dexia
right
Piso
behind
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Efta ke misi
7.30
Agia
Saint (female)
Simera
today
Agios
Saint (male)
Appose
tonight
Kato
Lower
Tora
now
Leoforos
Avenue
Avrio
tomorrow
Panagia
Kyriaki
Sunday
Dheftera
Monday
Pano
Upper
Triti
Tuesday
Petra
Stone
Tetarti
Wednesday
Plateia
Square
Pempti
Thursday
Stavros
Cross
Paraskevi
Friday
Savato
Saturday
Accommodation
Pou ine...?
Where is...?
Eating Out
Thelo ena
Id like
Pro-ino
breakfast
Kalo xenodohio
A good hotel
Mesimvrino
lunch
Mono
Single
Vradhyno
dinner
Dhiplo
Double
Psomi
bread
Dhomatio
Room
Tyri
cheese
Poso kani?
Eleoladho
olive oil
Boro na to dho?
Kotopoulo
chicken
Ghala
milk
Nero
water
Numbers
1
Tsai
tea
dhio
I want a coffee
I want a tea
I want a beer
pende
I want a drink
exi
epta
Emergencies
ohto
enea
10
dheka
Pharmako
Pharmakeio
Iatros
Nosokomeio
Voithya!
Fonaxte ena iatro!
Fonaxte tin
astynomia!
Sta andiviotika
Andisiptiko
Dheeareea
Andieeliaki
Ine
Its
Mia i ora
1 oclock
medicine
pharmacy
doctor
hospital
Emergency!
Call a doctor!
Call the police!
antibiotics
antiseptic
diarrhoea
sunblock
229
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Cypriot Candy
Youll see boxes of Loukoumi for sale all over the island. Its
preparation is complicated, so do try it!
The method involves several steps. First, a huge cauldron of water is
placed over a hot fire. When the water boils, sugar is added and this mixture is boiled for another hour. The mixture is stirred continuously using
an electric paddle. This is followed by adding starch, and the mixture is
further boiled for five to six hours, till it becomes shiny and smooth.
After allowing it to cool for some time, different flavours are added to
the mixture maybe almond, cherry, chocolate, lemon or rose (which is
made locally). The flavoured mixture is poured into huge wooden trays
for setting.
It takes almost five hours to set and then the mixture is cut into
squares, dusted generously with icing sugar and packed into small
boxes lined with greaseproof paper.
Cyprus also produces more-ish sugared almonds, grown locally,
freshly roasted and covered with a creamy coloured sugar coating.
The almonds are first washed, roasted slowly and then put into a
copper cauldron. Sugar syrup is used to baste the nuts. Once they are
evenly coated with the syrup, the nuts are cooled slightly. The process is
repeated a few times so there are several layers of sugar, and then the
nuts are cooled properly and boxed.
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The Insider
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Main courses
Kleftiko knuckle of lamb with
Puddings
Galatoboureko custard filo
pie.
for vegetarians.
Louvi me lahana swiss chard
232
biscuits.
Loukoumades deep-fried pas-
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Index
Index
See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.
General
A
Abrahmet district (Nicosia), 203
Accommodation. See also
Accommodations Index
best, 710
types of, 3132
useful phrases, 229
Active families, activities for
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 188189
Larnaca, 165
Limassol, 113115
Nicosia, 209
Paphos, 6062
Polis, Latchi, and the West, 8487
Troodos Mountains, 142145
Adonis, legend of, 202
Afelia, 232
Agia Napa. See Ayia Napa
Agiasma Trail, 86
Agios Georgios, 48
Agios Ioannis cathedral (Nicosia), 206
Agros, 134, 145146, 149
Agrotourism, 3, 8, 32
Airports, 26
Akamas (Akamas Peninsula), 5, 11, 28, 75,
8081
Akamas Jeep Safari, 111
Akrotiri Environmental Information Centre
(Limassol), 101
Akrotiri Salt Lake, 100102
Alcohol, 17, 30, 32, 33, 231
Amathous, 109
Animal attractions, best, 4
Anthestiria Festival, 154
Apartments, 32
Aphrodite Hills (Pissouri), 49
Aphrodites Birthplace (Petra tou Romiou)
(Paphos), 7, 54
Aphrodite Trail (Latchi), 85
Aphrodite Water Park (Paphos), 6, 60
Aquaria and animal parks
Larnaca, 159
Limassol, 102104
Nicosia, 200
Paphos, 5455
Troodos Mountains, 138
Archaeological Museum (Larnaca),
162163
Archaeological sites
Amathous, 109
Kourion, 104105
Larnaca, 161162
Archangel Michael Day, 199
Archbishop Makarios III Foundation
(Nicosia), 208
B
Baby, travelling with a, 20, 33, 37
Babysitters, 33
Baklava, 231, 232
Balloon flights, 61
Baths of Adonis, 5253
Baths of Aphrodite, 82
Beaches
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 178184
best, 45
Larnaca, 156157
Limassol, 99100
Paphos, 5052
Polis, Latchi and the West, 7780
Beach Volleyball National Tournament, 177
Bicycle rentals, 31, 62, 189
Bicycling tours, 165. See also Bicycle
rentals
Blue Flag Beaches, 34
Boat trips
Latchi, 8384
Limassol, 111
235
Index
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C
Caledonia Falls, 6, 137
Camel Park (Mazotos), 159
Campsites, 31
Candy, Cypriot, 230
Cape Greco, 184185
Car, getting around by, 2930
Carnival, 21, 120
Carob Museum (Limassol), 110
Car rental companies, 30
Catamaran cruises, 187
Cave of the 40 Martyrs, 182
Cedar Valley, 136137
Central Municipal Market (Nicosia), 210
Chemists, 34
Childrens menus, 232
Choirokoitia, 161, 169
Choulou, 50
Christmas, 22, 121
Chrysaliniotissa Crafts Centre
(Nicosia), 209
Chrysorrogiatissa monastery
(Troodos), 8283
Churches and monasteries, 34, 36
Agios Ioannis cathedral (Nicosia), 206
Ayia Napa monastery, 185
Ayios Lazaros church (Larnaca), 160
Ayios Minas monastery (Lefkara), 162
Chrysorrogiatissa monastery
(Troodos)), 8283
Holy Monastery of St Nicholas of the
Cats (Limassol), 108109
Kykkos monastery (Troodos), 139140
Monastery of the Holy Cross
(Omodhos), 146
Stavrovouni monastery (Larnaca), 162
Trooditissa monastery (Platres),
138, 139
Climate, 19, 3839
Coffee, Cypriot, 115, 233
Concerts
Ayia Napa, 177
Limassol, 96, 98
Nicosia, 199
Coral Bay, 4748, 6667
Coral Bay Watersports, 52
Coral Beach (Paphos), 45, 52
Cosmic Bowling (Paphos), 61
Credit cards, 18
Cruises
from Limassol, 112113
from Protaras, 187
Cuisine, Cypriot, 230233
Currency, 1819
Customs requirements, 1518
Cycling tours, 165. See also Bicycle rentals
Cyprus
family and children in, 24
fast facts, 3339
236
Page 236
D
Debit cards, 18
Dentists, 34
Dhali Village, 203
Dhekelia Base, 184
Dherinia, 183184
Dining. See Eating out; Restaurant Index
Discover Scuba Diving, 85
Doctors, 23
Donkey trekking, 5960, 83
Drapia Horse Farm (Kalavasos), 159
Drinking water, 34
Driving rules, 2627, 2930
Driving tours, self-guided
Larnaca, 164165
Limassol, 114, 115
Drousia, 79
E
Easter, Orthodox, 21, 7677, 121
Eating out. See also Restaurant Index
about, 3233
best options, 1012
useful phrases, 229
Egypt, day trip to, 112
Electricity, 34
Embassies, 3435
Emergency services, 23, 35
Entry requirements and customs, 1518
Epiphany Day, 2021
Episkopi, 50
Equipment, baby, 33
Ethnographic Museum (Lefkosia), 207208
EU Blue Flag, 34
Events and entertainment, child-friendly
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 177
best, 3
Larnaca, 154156
Limassol, 96, 9899
Paphos, 4546
Polis, Latchi and the West, 7677
Troodos Mountains, 130131
Evretou Dam, 8687
Exchange rate, 18
Extreme Park (Nicosia), 209
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Famagusta, 187
Family events, best, 3
The Farm House (Ayia Napa), 186
Fasolia, 232
Fasouri Watermania water park
(Limassol), 113
Ferries, 27
Festivals
Anthestiria Festival, 154
Ayia Napa Festival, 177
Kataklysmos, 2122, 98, 154155, 177
Kypria Festival, 98, 155, 199
Limassol Beer Festival, 98
Limassol Carnival, 98
Limassol Childrens Festival, 96
Limassol Wine Festival, 96
Mallia Village Fair, 98
Paphos Aphrodite Festival, 45
Pastelli Festival, 98
Urban Soul Festival, 199
Vouni Village Festival, 98
Fig Tree Bay, 181
Fikardou, 203, 204
Flag, Cypriot, 172
Folk Art Museum (Arsos), 142
Food and drink, 120, 121, 230233
Forest fires, 138
Funbuggy Cyprus (Paphos), 6061
Limassol, 104109
Nicosia, 204206
Paphos, 5557
Troodos Mountains, 138142
History of Cyprus, 216220
Holidays, 2022, 7677
Holy Monastery of St Nicholas of the Cats
(Akrotiri Village), 108109
Horseback riding, Troodos Mountains,
144, 145
Horse racing, 199
Hospitals, 23
Hotels, 3132. See also Accommodations
Index
Hours, business, 34
Index
Page 237
I
Idalion, 203
Independence Day, 199
Indoor attractions, best, 56
Insurance and health concerns, 2224
Internet, 2526
Island Cove Mini Golf (Paphos), 61
J
Jeep safaris (Paphos), 7, 59
G
Galatoboureko, 232
Germasogeia Dam (Limassol), 101, 102
Go-karting, 84
Golf, 84
Good Friday, 21
Governors Beach, 99100, 125
Grandparents, 2425
Greek Cypriot National Day, 21
Greek Cypriots, 200, 219
Greek language, 222229
alphabet, 223224
learning elements of, 222
pronunciation, 222223
useful words and phrases, 225227
Greek National Day, 21, 22
Green Bay, 182
The Green Line, 111, 198, 202, 204205,
220
Green Monday, 21
H
Hala Sultan Tekke (Larnaca), 159160
Hamam Omeriye (Nicosia), 206
Herb teas, 233
High commissions, 3435
Hiking. See also Walking trails
Akamas and Paphos forest, 8587
best, 6
Troodos Mountains, 130, 137138,
142144
Historic buildings and monuments
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 185
Larnaca, 159162
K
Kakopetria, 133, 134, 147148, 150
Kalavasos, 157, 170
Kallepeia, 49
Kano Platres, 131, 132
Kataifi, 232
Kataklysmos, 2122, 98, 154155, 177
Kato Pyrgos, 80
Kefelos Venetian Bridge, 140141
Keftedes, 232
Kiti Beach, 156157
Kition, 161
Kleftiko, 232
Kofinou, 158
Kokkinokhoria, 182, 183
Kolossi Castle (Limassol), 105107
Konnos Bay, 180181
Kornos, 158
Kourambiedes, 121, 232
Kourion, 96, 98, 104105
Kurion Beach, 100
Kykko Bowling (Nicosia), 209
Kykkos monastery, 139140
Kypria Festival, 98, 155, 199
Kyro Nero, 180
L
Ladys Mile Beach, 100
Laiki Yitonia, 12, 201
Landa Beach, 179
Laona Project villages, 7980
Lara Beach, 4, 7879
237
Index
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M
Makarios, Archbishop, 208, 219220
Makronissos Beach, 179
Mallia Village Fair, 98
Maps, 35
Maranthasa area (Troodos), 133
Marine Life Museum (Ayia Napa), 186
Markets
Nicosia, 210
Paphos, 64
Maroni, 165
Marriage, 35
McKenzie Beach, 156
Media, 3536
Melamakarona, 232
Melios Pet Centre (Nicosia), 200, 201
Meneou, cycle ride to, 165
Mesaoria, 203
Meze (mezedes), 230232
Mini golf, 61
Mobile phones, 25
Monasteries. See churches and
monasteries
Money, 1819
Mosques
Hala Sultan Tekke (Larnaca), 159160
Selimiye Mosque (Nicosia), 202
Motorways, 29
Mountain biking, 62
Mountain resorts, Troodos Mountains,
131136
Mount Olympus, 136, 142, 143
Moussaka, 232
Moutti tou Stavrou Trail (Selladi tou
Stavrou), 144
Municipal Museum of Natural History
(Larnaca), 163
Museums
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 185186
Larnaca, 162163
Limassol, 109110
Nicosia, 206208
Paphos, 5758
Polis, Latchi, and the West, 8283
N
National parks, 28
National Struggle Museum (Nicosia), 201
Natural wonders and spectacular views
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 184185
best, 34
Larnaca, 158
Limassol, 100102
Nicosia, 204
Paphos, 5254
Polis, Latchi, and the West, 8082
Troodos Mountains, 136138
Newspapers, 3536
New Years Day, 20, 120
Nicosia, 196214
accommodations, 210212
animal parks, 200
Athalassa Park, 204
districts of, 201203
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O
Ochi Square open-air market
(Lefkosia), 210
Old Coast Road (Larnaca), 164165
Oleastro Olive Park (Pissouri), 56, 5758
Omodhos, 134, 135, 141, 148, 150
Orthodox Easter, 21, 7677, 121
Ostriches, 103
Ostrich Wonderland theme park, 200
Outdoor activities, best, 5
P
Pachna, 126
Package tours, 2729
Packing tips, 1920
Pafos. See Paphos
Palatia, 185
Pano Platres, 131, 132
Paphos (Pafos), 4247
accommodations, 6466
for active families, 6062
aquaria and animal parks, 5455
beaches, 5052
dining, 6871
events and entertainment,
child-friendly, 4546
historic buildings and monuments,
5557
map, 42
museums, 5758
natural wonders and spectacular
views, 5254
shopping, 6264
top 10 attractions, 45
tours, child-friendly, 5860
town, 45, 47
villages near, 4950
Paphos Aphrodite Festival, 45
Paphos Aquarium, 5455
Paphos Bird and Animal Park, 55
Paphos Byzantine Museum, 58
Paphos market, 64
Paphos Medieval Fortress, 57
Paphos Mosaics, 5657
Paphos Municipal Beach, 51
Parking, 35
Parks, national, 28
Passports, 1516
Pastelli Festival, 98
Pastitsio, 232
Pera, 203
Persephone Trail (Troodos), 137138
Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodites Birthplace)
(Paphos), 7, 54
Petrol stations, 30
Pets, 16
Phones, 25, 37
Pierides Museum (Larnaca), 162
Pissouri, 11, 4849, 6768, 7172
Pissouri Bay, 52
Pitsylia area (Troodos), 134, 145146, 149
Platania, 137
Platres, 131, 132
accommodations, 146147
dining, 149150
Police, 36
Polis and surrounding area, 7592
accommodations, 8790
for active families, 8487
beaches and resorts, 7780
dining, 9092
events and entertainment, childfriendly, 7677
map, 74
museums, 8283
natural wonders and spectacular
views, 8082
top 10 attractions, 77
tours, child-friendly, 8384
Polis Archaeological Museum of
Marion-Arsinoe, 83
Post offices, 36
Prices, 19
Protaras, 181, 187, 189, 192194
Protaras Fun Park, 189
Puddings, 232
Pyla, 182
Index
Page 239
R
Racism, 166
Radio, 36
Rainfall, 38
Raptor Sea Safari, 189
Religion, 218219
Restaurants. See Eating out; Restaurant
Index
Reunification, 200
Richard the Lionheart, 101
Rock n Bowl Bowling Centre (Larnaca),
165
Rock of Aphrodite (Pissouri), 48, 49
Rules, driving. See Driving rules
S
Safety concerns, 23, 24, 3637
Sandy Bay, 180
Santa Marina Retreat (Limassol), 115116
Scrapbook, holiday, 33
Scuba diving, 85
239
Index
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T
Tahtakale district (Nicosia), 201, 202
Tamassos, 203
Tavas, 232
Taxes, 37
Tax-free allowances, 1617
Taxis, 31, 198199
Teenagers, 7, 233
Telephones, 25, 37
Television, 36
Temperatures, 19, 38, 39
Tenta, 161162
Thalassa Museum (Ayia Napa), 185186
Thrill rides, 6162, 188
Time zone, 37
Tipping, 1819, 37
Tobacco products, 16, 17
Tochni, 8, 157, 158, 165, 169170
Toilets, 37
Tombs of the Kings (Paphos-Coral Bay),
5556
Tourist information, 37
Tour operators, 2425, 2729
Tours
cycling, 165
package, 2729
self-guided driving tours, 114, 115,
164165
walking, 164, 209
Tours, child-friendly
Ayia Napa and Protaras, 186187
Larnaca, 164165
Limassol, 110112
Nicosia, 209
Paphos, 5860
Polis, Latchi, and the West, 8384
Troodos Mountains, 142
240
Page 240
U
UK, Cypriots and ties with the, 219
Undersea Walk, 189
Urban Soul Festival, 199
V
Vaccinations, 23
Vasa, 126
VAT, 37
Venetian walls (Nicosia), 205206
Village houses, 32
Village life, 139
Village salad, 232
Villas, 32
Visas, 1516
Volleyball, 177
Vouni, 126
Vouni Village Festival, 98
Vrysoudia B (Paphos), 5152
W
Walking tours
Larnaca, 164
Nicosia, 209
Walking trails, 8587, 101, 102, 137138.
See also Hiking
Water, drinking, 34
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Z
Zygi, 158, 165
Index
Waterparks
Aphrodite Water Park (Paphos), 6, 60
best, 6
Fasouri Watermania Water Park, 113
WaterWorld, 188
Wet n Wild, 113
WaterWorld, 188
Weather, 19, 38, 40
Websites, child-specific, 15
Weddings, 35
Western Cyprus. See Polis area
Wet n Wild (Limassol), 113
Wheelie Cyprus (Drousia), 84
Wild Valley Resort (Kato Polemidia), 102
Wineries and wine-making
Cyprus Wine Museum, 110
Limassol Wine Festival, 96
Tsiakkas Winery, 146
Women in Cyprus, 108
Worship, places of, 34, 36
Page 241
Accommodations
Adams Beach Hotel (Ayia Napa), 191
Agios Theodoros Cottage (Choulou),
8990
Agrotiko (Kallepeia), 68
Almyra (Paphos), 65
Amarakos Inn (Kato Akourdalia), 89
Amathus Beach (Limassol), 119
Anassa (Polis-Latchi), 87
Anthonys Garden House (Episkopi), 122
Atlantica Aeneas Resort (Ayia Napa),
190191
Avli House (Nicosia), 212
Chloe Stylianous House (Pano
Akourdalia), 88
Classic (Nicosia), 212
Columbia Beachotel (Pissouri), 6768
Columbia Beach Resort (Pissouri), 9, 67
Coral Beach Hotel (Coral Bay), 6667
Cyprus Hilton (Nicosia), 211
Elia Latchi Holiday Village (Latchi), 88
Elias Beach Hotel (Limassol), 120
Elysium Beach Resort (Paphos), 6566
Eveleos Country House (Tochni), 169170
Faros Village (Pervolia), 168
Flamingo Beach Hotel (Larnaca), 168
Forest Park Hotel (Platres), 146147
Four Seasons (Limassol), 118119
Golden Bay Hotel (Larnaca), 167
Grecian Bay Hotel (Ayia Napa), 190
Grecian Park (Protaras), 192
Hilton Park Nicosia, 211212
Holiday Inn Nicosia, 212
Hotel Agora (Pano Lefkara), 168
Intercontinental Aphrodite Hills Resort
(Pissouri), 78, 49, 67
Jubilee Hotel (Troodos), 148149
Laura Beach Hotel (Paphos), 66
Lefkarama Village Hotel (Pano
Lefkara), 169
Restaurants
Abu Faysal (Nicosia), 214
Aigaio (Nicosia), 213
Anassa Beach Barbecue (Latchi), 90
Araouzos (Kathikas), 71
Ariadne (Vasa), 126
Asiachi (Paphos), 12, 69
Barolo (Limassol), 122123
Beige (Limassol), 123
Black Turtle (Larnaca), 171
Boite (Paphos), 47
Bunch of Grapes (Pissouri), 72
Cappuccino Inn (Ayia Napa), 193194
Caprice at Londa (Limassol), 122
Captains Table (Zygi), 172
Deep Blue (Tomb of the Kings), 70
Demetrion (Potamos), 194
Draught Microbrewery (Vasilissis), 124
Hobo Caf (Paphos), 47
I Gonia tou Anastasi (Nicosia), 214
Il Cavaliere (Protaras), 194
I Orea Ellas (Vouni), 126
Karatelo (Vasilissis), 124
Kivotis Art Caf (Polis-Latchi), 11, 92
Kouppas Stone Taverna (Neo Chorio), 92
La Boite 67 (Paphos), 71
Lemon Garden (Polis), 90, 91
Limanaki (Limassol), 124
Limanaki (Pissouri), 7172
Loizos Koubaris Fish Taverna (Zygi), 172
Los Bandidos (Ayia Napa), 193
Mandra Tavern (Paphos), 70
Mansoura Tavern (Kato Pyrgos), 92
Marzano (Nicosia), 214
Mavroumatis (Agios Tychonas), 123
Maze (Nicosia), 214
Melanda Beach Taverna (Avdimou),
125126
Mesostrato Taverna (Kakopetria), 150
241
Index
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