Tip #19 Sharpening

Sharpening (grinding and honing) woodwork-

ing toots is very personal and can be accom-
plished in many waysyou will sharpen tools
the way that works best for you. Tools are
ground on machines and then honed on several
types of stones. Grinding eliminates defects in
the cutting edge by removing metal from the
tool. Honing puts a razor sharp edge on the
ground cutting edge of the tool.

This tip will cover the different ways of grind-

ing and honing many of the basic cutting tools
used for woodworking. Because of the diverse
nature of woodworking and the thousands of
tools available we can not possibly cover
everything in just one chapter. For additional
sharpening information consult the tool manu-
facturer or your local library.

GRINDING MACHINES AND ACCES-

SORIES
The Shopsmith machines and accessories that
we will be using to show the different grinding
techniques are the Disc Sander, Belt Sander,
Strip Sander, Grinding Wheel, Sharpening
Guide, plus specialty grinding stones (Figure
24-1). Figure 24-1. The machines and accessories used for grinding
are: (A) disc sander, (B) belt sander, (C) strip sander, (D)
The abrasives generally used to perform grinding wheel, (E) specialty grinding stones, and the sharpen-
grinding tasks are: aluminum oxide and silicon ing guide. The sharpening guide which is used with the disc
sander, belt sander and strip sander is shown with the disc
carbide for belts and discs used on power sander.
sanders, and silicon carbide for wheels used in
power grinders.

SHARPENING SAFETY
As with other power tool operations, sharpening safety is Paramount! Know the machine that you are
about to use. To protect yourself and others from personal injury take the time to review these important
safety considerations:
Read, understand, and follow ALL the safety and other information in the Owners Manual that
applies to the machine, machines or accessories you plan to use.
Always wear proper eye and face protection.
Always support the tool that you are grinding.
Always operate the machine at the recommended speed.
 Never turn on the machine with the tool or cutter already against the abrasive.
Never connect a dust collection system to the grinding machine or accessory during grinding
operations. Sparks and/ or hot pieces of metal could ignite the sawdust or debris in the collection
bag.
Never perform any grinding operations without the appropriate shields and guards in place and
properly positioned.
Always inspect the abrasive surface of the disc, belt, or wheel for any wrinkles, tears or cracks.
Replace any defective abrasive materials IMMEDIATELY. Always grind with the tool's cutting
edge pointing AWAY from the direction of rotation of the disc, belt or rubber bonded abrasive
wheel.
Never mount the Velcro Sanding System on the disc sander for grinding operations. The cutting
edge of the tool or cutter will dig into the soft-backed sandpaper and throw the tool or cutter
from your hands possibly causing injury and certainly damaging the tool and the sanding system.

GRINDING LATHE CHISELS

Lathe chisels can be ground on several Shopsmith machines. However using the Shopsmith Sharpening
Guide with the disc sander, the belt sander or the strip sander is probably the easiest. Chisels can also be
ground on the grinding wheel accessory but there is less apparatus to guide the chisels so accuracy is
more difficult.

Lathe chisels are held three different ways for scraping, cutting, and shearing. Therefore, they must be
ground properly for the way they are going to be used. Some chisels can be ground and held to cut in
more than one way while others are designed to cut stock one way only.

The skew and the gouge are generally ground for shearing with a long bevel and then honed to a razor
sharp edge. They are intended to shear or cut (depending on how they are held) and are used to make
spindle turnings. They can, however, also be ground and used as scraping tools.

The parting tool is ground for either cutting or scraping and is honed razor sharp only when it is intended
for cutting.

The roundnose chisel is generally ground with a short bevel and the burr is left on the cutting edge. This
chisel is seldom honed and is intended to scrape. It is used to make both spindle and faceplate turnings.
Shearing chisels can be used to scrape and scraping chisels can be used to shear if this works best for you,
but there are a few things to remember.

Warning: When any chisel ground to a shearing angle is used to remove stock with a scraping technique,
especially with alternating grain direction, the sharp cutting edge will dig into the stock, stalling the
machine or throwing the chisel and or the stock. This will leave a deep gouge in the stockand possibly
throw the tool from your hands causing injury and certainly damaging the tool.

Round bottom gouges, even when ground for scraping, will roll when the upper corners come in contact
with the rotating stock causing them to dig into the stock. This will throw the tool from your hands
possibly causing injury and certainly damaging the tool and the workpiece.

The double beveled chisels, skew and parting tool, are measured across both bevels. This is known as an
included angle. (This angle includes both bevel angles.)
The longer the bevel or the smaller the angle ground on the chisel, means a sharper tool that will leave a
smoother cut. However, the tool will be more difficult to control.

As you grind away metal, the chisel will become short and the handle ferrules will hit the sharpening
guide, especially at the shearing settings. By then you will have ground past the heat treated end. For this
reason, the chisel dulls quickly and needs to be replaced.

When you're using the disc sander or the belt sander mounted on the Mark V, always grind at "Slow"
speed. For grinding on the strip sander, follow the recommended speeds for the different grits in the
Owners Manual.

Because grinding removes metal with a moving abrasive working against a stationary metal tool, a great
deal of frictional heat is created. To keep this heat from building up and destroying the factory heat
treating and hardening of the tool (temper), hold the tool against the abrasive momentarily then slide it
away. Repeat this procedure until the tool has been sufficiently ground. Caution: Have a container of
water nearby to cool (quench) the tool if it becomes too hot to touch. If you notice that the tool is discol-
oring and turning blue, you are either holding the tool against the abrasive too long or too hard, the
abrasive is dull or the speed setting is too fast.

When you're using the disc sander, the dust chute is used to contain the abrasive particles and protect the
way tubes from grit. An alternative to using the dust chute is to place an 8" to 12" wide piece of scrap
lumber on the way tubes under the sanding disc. Caution: When you're finished grinding, always slide
the power plant away from the grinding position and wipe the way tubes clean.

Grinding Lathe Chisels using the Sharpening Guide

The Shopsmith Sharpening Guide mounts on the disc sander, belt sander and the strip sander and is used
to grind skews, gouges, parting tools and roundnose chisels. Set up the machine you will be using and
grind the chisels according to the applicable instructions below. To determine the sharpening guide angle
settings, refer to Table 24-1.

Table 24-1: Sharpening Guide Angle Settings

Left Setting (Shearing) Right Setting (Scraping)

20 15 10 5 0 5 10 15 20

Skew 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65

Gouge 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65

Parting Tool 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80
Disc Sander SetupMount the
sharpening guide on the Mark V
extension table (Figure 24-6).
Warning: To sharpen lathe
chisels, mount the sharpening
guide to the extension table only.
Mounting the guide to the
worktable may cause the cutting
edge of the chisel to dig into the
abrasive and the tool to be
thrown from your hands.

Adjust the sharpening guide to the Figure 24-6. To sharpen lathe chisels, mount the sharpening guide on the
extension table only.
desired angle setting. Slide the
sanding disc to within 1/16" of the
sharpening guide then secure the
power plant lock. Warning: Never
use the Velcro Sanding System
to grind tools.

Belt Sander SetupPosition the

belt sander vertically and set the
table to the "0" setting. Position
the parting tool station of the
sharpening guide in front of the
belt sander backup plate. Adjust
the guide to the desired angle
setting. Warning: Position the
sharpening guide to within 1/16"
of the belt and secure the table
Figure 24-7. Position the guide to within 1/16 of the belt.
locking setscrews (Figure 24-7).

Strip Sander SetupSet the strip

sander worktable to 900 and adjust
the sharpening guide to the desired
angle setting. Because there are no
table slots or mounting holes in the
strip sander table, the sharpening
guide must be clamped to the table
top. An index line is used to align
the guide. Draw this line 3-5/8"
from, and parallel to the platen
(Figure 24-8).

When setting the angle, position

the hole in the rear of the sharpen- Figure 24-8. Draw an index line Figure 24-9. Clamp the sharpen-
ing guide and the angle setting 3-5/8 from, and parallel to the ing guide to within 1/16 of the
platen. belt.
indicator directly over the index line. Slide the sharpening guide along the line until the desired station is
in front of the belt. Make sure the sharpening guide is within 1/16" of the belt, then clamp the guide
securely to the table (Figure 24-9).

Grinding the SkewThe skew chisel has a bevel ground on both sides at an angle not perpendicular to
either the side faces or the top and bottom edges. To grind this compound angle the skew must be held at
an angle to the abrasive and leaned to the left and to the right. These angles are controlled by the sharp-
ening guide.

Position the tip of the skew down and the side against the left wall of the second station of the sharpen-
ing guide (Figure 24-10). Be sure the skew is not touching the abrasive and the speed dial is set to
"Slow" (if you are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.

Gently slide the skew against the wall of the skew grinding station and into the moving abrasive. Hold the
chisel there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Turn the skew over and position
the tip of the skew up and lay the
side of the skew against the right
wall of the second station (Figure
24-11).

Gently slide the skew against the

station and into the moving abra-
sive. Hold it there momentarily
then back it away. Repeat this
several times.

Grind away only enough metal to

Figure 24-10. Position the tip of Figure 24-11. Position the tip of remove any damage to the cutting
the skew down and the side the skew up and the side against edge and create a slight burr. If the
against the left wall of the second the right wall of the second skew is being ground for scraping,
station. station. then it is ready to use (the burr is
sharp and scrapes very well). If the
skew is being ground for shearing
or cutting, it will need to be honed
to a razor sharp edge.

Grinding the GougeThe gouge

chisel has a bevel ground on the
convex side (bottom) at an angle
measured from the concave side
(top). This bevel is curved to form
a rounded cutting edge. To grind
this complex curved bevel, the
gouge must be held at the proper
angle, fed into the abrasive and
Figure 24-12. Set the gouge in the third station and lay its side against the rotated. The angle is controlled by
left wall.
the sharpening guide.
 Figure 24-14.Position the roundnose chisel,
Figure 24-13.Set the parting tools side in bevel up in the fourth station. Tighten the
the first station. knob.

Place the gouge in the third station of the sharpening guide and lay the side of the gouge against the left
wall of the station (Figure 24-12). Rotate the gouge until its center touches the abrasive.

With the machine "OFF" practice rotating the gouge, first clockwise from the center to the edge, and then
counterclockwise from the center of the gouge to the edge. You should notice while rotating the gouge
that in order to keep the bevel in contact with the abrasive, you must slide the gouge forward on the
station as the bevel is ground from the center to each edge.

After you get the feel of this grinding motion, be sure the gouge is not touching the abrasive and the
speed dial is set to "Slow" (if you are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.

Gently slide the gouge against the wall of the station and into the moving abrasive. Start rotating the
gouge, like you practiced. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cut-ting edge and create a slight burr. If the
gouge is being ground for scraping, it is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
gouge is being ground for shearing or cutting, it will need to be honed to a razor sharp edge.

Grinding the Parting Tool The parting tool has a bevel ground on both the top and bottom edges. To
grind these angles the parting tool must be held on its side at the proper angle to the moving abrasive,
turned over and reset at the exact same angle. These angles are controlled by the sharpening guide.

To grind the parting tool, lay the side of the parting tool in the first station of the sharpening guide (Fig-
ure 24-13). Be sure the parting tool is not touching the abrasive and the speed dial is set to "Slow" (if
you are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.

Gently slide the parting tool on the station and into the moving abrasive. Hold it there momentarily then
back it away. Repeat this several times.

Turn the parting tool over and lay the other side in the first station. Slide the parting tool on the station
and into the moving abrasive. Hold it there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create a slight burr. It is
VERY important to grind an equal amount from each bevel so that the widest part of the parting tool is
exactly at the cutting edge. If the parting tool is being ground for scraping, then it is ready to use (the
burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the parting tool is being ground for cutting, it will need to be
honed to a razor sharp edge.

Grinding the Roundnose ChiselThe roundnose chisel has a bevel ground on the bottom at an angle
measured from the top. This bevel is curved to form a round cutting edge. To grind this curved bevel the
roundnose chisel must be held at the proper angle to the moving abrasive, pivoted and fed into the abra-
sive. The bevel angle is controlled by the sharpening guide.

Grinding the roundnose chisel on the fourth station is the only grinding operation that does not repeat the
"factory" angle. The new 15 bevel angle is ideal for scraping. The distance between the pivoting station
and the moving abrasive will set the radius of the cutting edge. Position the pivoting station close to the
abrasive and the cutting edge will be ground completely around the chisel leaving no sharp corners.
Position the pivoting station further away from the abrasive and the cutting edge will be ground around
the chisel on a large radius leaving sharp corners where the sides and the curved cutting edge join.

To grind the roundnose chisel, position it, bevel up in the fourth station (the pivoting station). Slide it
under the knob until the center of the round nose chisel touches the abrasive and tighten the knob (Figure
24-14).

With the machine "OFF" practice pivoting the roundnose chisel first to the left, and then to the right to
complete the edge. You will notice that the chisel will need to be repositioned further forward on the
grinding station to complete the bevel.

After you get the feel of this grinding motion, be sure the round-nose chisel is not touching the abrasive
and the speed dial is set to "Slow" (if you are using the Mark V), then turn on the machine.

Gently slide the roundnose chisel in the fourth station until it just touches the moving abrasive. Tighten
the knob and start pivoting the roundnose chisel, like you practiced. Repeat this several times.
Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create a slight burr. The
roundnose chisel is ground for scraping, so it is ready to use as is and should not be honed (the burr is
sharp and scrapes very well).

Grinding Lathe Chisels using the Grinding Wheel

The Shopsmith Grinding wheel mounts on the Mark V and will grind skews, gouges, parting tools and
roundnose chisels. Set up the grinding wheel on the Mark V and grind the chisels according to the appli-
cable instructions below.

Grinding the SkewThe skew chisel has a bevel ground on both sides at an angle not perpendicular to
either the side faces or the top and bottom edges. To grind this compound angle the skew must be held at
the proper angle to the side of the wheel and leaned to either the left or to the right on the appropriate
sides of the wheel. Warning: Do not grind the skew on the front of the wheel. This will leave a
hollow ground bevel on the skew that may make the chisel difficult to control.

One angle is controlled by the tool rest and the other angle (the lean of the tool) is controlled by feel.
 Figure 24-16.Position the tip
Figure 24-15.Hold the skew on the tool rest with the tip up and the bevel up, and lay the right side
against the wheel. bevel against the left side of
the grinding wheel.

Figure 24-17.Posi-
tion the left bevel,
with the tip up, near
the right side of the
wheel.

To find the desired tool rest angle setting hold the skew on the tool rest with the tip up and the bevel of
the cutting edge against either side of the wheel. Loosen the wing nut and pivot the tool rest until the
cutting edge is parallel to the rotation of the wheel (Figure 24-15). At the same time, slide the tool rest to
within 1/16" of the wheel and then secure the wing nut.

To grind the skew, position the tip up and lay the right side bevel against the left side of the grinding
wheel (Figure 24-16).

Tilt the skew away from the wheel and be sure the skew is not touching it and the speed dial is set to
"Slow". Then turn on the Mark V and set the speed dial to "A" (3400 RPM).

Gently lean the skew back toward the side of the grinding wheel. Feel for the bevel of the skew against
the side of the grinding wheel. Hold it there momentarily then lean it away. Repeat this several times.

Reposition the left bevel with the tip up near the right side of the wheel (Figure 24-17).
Figure 24-18.Practice rolling the gouge toward the fron Figure 24-19.Roll the gouge to the front of the tool
of the tool rest. Feel the bevel seat on the wheel. rest, this time with the handle pointing to the right.

Gently lean the skew into the side of the grinding wheel. Feel for the bevel of the skew against the side of
the grinding wheel. Hold it there momentarily then lean it away. Repeat this several times.

Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create a slight burr. If the
skew is being ground for scraping, then it is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
skew is being ground for shearing or cutting, it will need to be honed to a razor sharp edge.

Grinding the GougeThe gouge chisel has a bevel ground on the convex side (bottom) at an angle
measured from the concave side (top). This bevel is curved to form a rounded cutting edge. To grind this
complex curved bevel, the gouge must be held at the proper angle to the grinding wheel, rotated and fed
into the wheel. The angle and the roll of the gouge is controlled by feel.

Set the tool rest to 90 and slide it to within 1/16" of the wheel and then secure the wing nut. Set the
gouge on the tool rest with the center of the bevel against the front of the grinding wheel and the handle
pointing to the left.

Practice rolling the gouge toward the front of the tool rest (Figure 24-18). Feel for the bevel against the
grinding wheel while keeping the side firmly against the tool rest. Repeat this movement with the gouge
handle pointing to the right (Figure 24-19).

When you feel confident with the rolling movement of the gouge, slide it away from the wheel. Be sure
that the gouge is not touching the wheel and that the speed dial is set to "Slow". Then turn on the Mark
V and set the speed dial to "A" (3400 RPM).

Gently slide the gouge into the grinding wheel. Feel for the bevel of the gouge against the grinding wheel.
Roll the gouge just as you practiced, first with the handle to the right, then with the handle to the left.
Repeat this several times.

Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create a slight burr. If the
gouge is being ground for scraping, then it is ready to use (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well). If the
gouge is being ground for shearing or cutting, then it will need to be honed to a razor sharp edge.
Figure 24-20. Lay the parting tool
edge on the tool rest as shown.

Figure 24-21. Slide the chisel, bevel down, until its center touches the grinding
wheel.

Grinding the Parting ToolThe parting tool has a bevel ground on both the top and bottom edges. To
grind these angles the parting tool must be held on its edge at the proper angle to the grinding wheel,
turned over and held at the exact same angle. Adjust the tool rest to match the center of the bevel previ-
ously ground on the parting tool and slide the tool rest to within 1/16" of the wheel and then secure the
wing nut.

Lay the edge of the parting tool on the tool rest (Figure 24-20). Practice sliding the tool forward while
holding it perpendicular to the tool rest and the grinding wheel. Try this on both sides of the parting tool.
When you feel confident with the movement of the parting tool, slide it away from the wheel. Be sure
that the parting tool is not touching the wheel and that the speed dial is set to "Slow". Turn on the Mark
V and set the speed dial to "R" (3400 RPM).

Gently slide the parting tool on the tool rest and into the grinding wheel. Hold it there momentarily then
back it away. Repeat this several times.

Turn the parting tool over and lay the other edge on the tool rest. Slide the parting tool on the tool rest
and into the grinding wheel. Hold it there momentarily then back it away. Repeat this several times.

Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting edge and create a slight burr. Be sure
to grind an equal amount from each side so that the widest part of the parting tool is exactly at the cutting
edge. If the parting tool is being ground for scraping, then it is ready to use (the burr Is sharp and scrapes
very well). If the parting tool is being ground for cutting, itwill need to be honed toa razor sharp edge.

Grinding the Roundnose ChiselThe roundnose chisel has a bevel ground on the bottom at an angle
measured from the top. This bevel is curved to form a rounded cutting edge. To grind this curved bevel
the roundnose chisel must be held at the proper angle to the grinding wheel, pivoted and fed into the
wheel. The bevel angle is controlled by the tool rest.

Set the tool rest to a 5 to 10 angle to the wheel and slide the tool rest to within 1/16" of the wheel.
Then secure the wing nut.

Grinding the roundnose chisel is the only grinding operation that does not repeat the "factory" angle. The
hollow-ground 50 to 10 bevel angle is excellent for scraping.
Set the roundnose chisel, bevel down on the tool rest. Slide the chisel
forward until the center of the chisel touches the grinding wheel
(Figure 24-21).

With the machine "OFF" prac-tice pivoting the roundnose chisel first
to the left, and then to the right to complete the edge. After you get
the feel of this grinding motion, be sure the roundnose chisel is not
toucriing the wneel and that the speed dial is set to "Slow". Turn on
the Mark V and set the speed dial to "R" (3400 RPM).

Gently slide the roundnose chisel on the tool rest and into the grinding Figure 24-22. Feel the burr by
carefully rubbing your finger
wheel. Like you practiced, pivot the chisel to grind the bevel. toward the cutting edge.

Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage to the cutting
edge and create a slight burr. The roundnose chisel is ground for scraping, so it is ready to use as is and
should not be honed (the burr is sharp and scrapes very well).

HONING LATHE CHISELS

After the skews, gouges, and parting tools are ground for either shearing or cutting, their cutting edges
must be honed razor sharp.

In order to hone the chisel you must be able to find and recognize the burr created by grinding. This must
be done properly and with extreme care to avoid cutting yourself. As you progress from coarser to finer
stones, the burr will become smaller and more difficult to find, but after you become more practiced at
honing this will become second nature.

To find the burr, lightly rub your finger at right angles to the cutting edge from the back of the bevel
toward the cutting edge and across it (Figure 24-22). Warning: Be careful not to slide your finger
along the cutting edge. Even though the chisel is not yet honed, the burr is sharp.

Start honing with a coarse stone. Apply a generous amount of liquid (if required) to the surface of the
stone. Set the chisel in the center of the hone, and rock the chisel on the bevel until you see the liquid
squeeze out from between the ground surface and the stone. This helps to show that you're holding the
chisel at the proper angle. Repeat this until you easily feel the bevel seat flat on the stone. Slide the chisel
over the hone as directed for each class of hone.

By repeating this procedure on progressively finer stones you will be able to hone the cutting edge of the
chisel razor sharp.

There are a couple of tests to check the "sharpness" of the cut-ting edge: (1) A razor sharp cutting edge
will cut end grain of wood with little effort. (2) A razor sharp cutting edge will seem to drag rather than
slip when pulled across the corner of a piece of hardwood. Do not use paper to test the sharpness be-
cause the glues in the paper will dull the edge you worked so hard to obtain.

Honing the Skew

The skew is honed much like a pocket knife. Each has a bevel ground on both sides of their cutting edge.
The skew must be honed on the two bevels. This will remove the grinding burr and sharpen the cutting
 Figure 24-23. Point the cutting edge in the same Figure 24-24. For narrow chisels, point the cutting
direction you are sliding the skew. edge away from the direction you are sliding the skew.

edge. By repeating this procedure on progressively finer stones you

will be able to hone the cutting edge razor sharp.

Using Oil Stones and Diamond HonesHold one bevel of the

skew on the hone. Slide the skew over the hone with the cutting
edge pointing in the same direction you are sliding the skew (Figure
24-23). Think of it as trying to shave off a thin sliver of the hone.
Turn the skew over and repeat the procedure to hone the other
bevel.

Using Water Stones and Rubber Bonded AbrasivesTo hone

skews with a cutting edge wider than 1/2" follow the oil stones and
diamond hones instructions.

For skews with narrower cutting edges, slide the skew over the Figure 24-25. Point and roll the
outside of the cutting edge in the
hone with the cutting edge point-ing away from the direction you same direction you are pushing the
are sliding the skew (Figure 24-24). Think of it as trying to smooth gouge.
over the surface of the hone. Turn the skew over and repeat the
procedure to hone the other bevel.

Honing the Gouge

The gouge must be honed on both the bevel ground on the outside
and the concave inside. This will remove the grinding burr and
sharpen the cutting edge.

A gouge slip or other rounded (convex) slip will be needed to hone

the inside (concave) of the gouge. This medium or fine slip should
match the profile of the gouge as close as possible.

Using Oil Stones and Diamond HonesHold the bevel of the

gouge on the hone. Roll the gouge as you push it over the hone. The Figure 24-26. Use a rounded slip to
cutting edge should be pointing in the same direction you are push- hone the inside of the gouge.
ing the gouge (Figure 24-25). Think of it as trying to shave off a thin sliver of the hone as you roll the
gouge.

Change to the slip. Apply a generous amount of oil to the inside of the gouge. Set the hone in the gouge.
Slide the slip from the cutting edge to the handle while rotating the gouge so the entire cutting edge on
the inside is honed (Figure 24-26). Then return to the flat bench hone.

Using Water Stones and Rubber Bonded AbrasivesHold the bevel of the gouge on the hone. Roll
the gouge as you pull it over the hone. Slide the gouge over the hone with the cutting edge pointing
away from the direction you are sliding the gouge (Figure 24-27). Think of it as trying to smooth over
the surface of the hone as you roll the gouge.

Change to the water slip hone. Apply a generous amount of water to the top surface of the hone. Set the
concave side of the gouge down on the slip. Slide the gouge away from the slip while rotating the gouge
so the entire cutting edge is honed on the inside. Then return to the flat bench hone.

Honing the Parting Tool

The parting tool is honed on the
bevel ground on both sides of the
cutting edge. This will remove the
grinding burr and sharpen the
cutting edge.
Using Oil Stones and Diamond
HonesHold the bevel of the
parting tool on the hone. Slide the
parting tool over the hone with the
cutting edge pointing in the same
direction you are sliding the tool
(Figure 24-28). Think of it as
trying to shave off a thin sliver of
Figure 24-27. Point and roll the cutting edge away from the direction you the hone. Turn the parting tool
are sliding the gouge. over and repeat this on the other
bevel.

Using Water Stones and Rubber

Bonded AbrasivesHold one
bevel of the parting tool on the
hone. Slide the tool over the hone
with the cutting edge pointing
away from the direction you are
sliding the tool (Figure 24-29).
Think of it as trying to smooth
over the surface of the hone. Turn
the parting tool over and repeat
the procedure to hone the other
bevel. Warning: Never attempt
Figure 24-28. Point the cutting edge in the same direction you are sliding to hone the parting tool with the
the tool.
 Figure 24-29. Point the cutting edge away from the direction you are
sliding the tool. Figure 24-30. Position the
sharpening guide within 1/16 of
the belt and clamp it to the table.

rubber bonded abrasive wheel mounted on the grinding wheel accessory. The cutting edge of the
parting tool will dig into the soft abrasive and throw the tool from your hands, possibly causing
injury and certainly damaging the tool and the rub-ber bonded abrasive wheel.

SHARPENING BENCH CHISELS

A bench chisel may be one of the most used and most abused tools in the shop. Along with chiseling, it's
sometimes used as a pry tool, a wedge, or even a substitute for a screwdriver. Because of this, the bench
chisel could be the most sharpened tool in the shop. To sharpen bench chisels, they must be ground, then
honed.

Grinding Bench Chisels using the Sharpening Guide

The Shopsmith Sharpening Guide mounts on the disc sander, belt sander and the strip sander and is used
to grind bench chisels. Set up the machine you will be using and grind the chisels according to the appli-
cable instructions below. To determine the sharpening guide angle settings, refer to Tab1e24-1.

Disc Sander SetupMount the sharpening guide on the Mark V worktable and adjust the worktable
height. Mount the sharpening guide to the worktable only. Mounting the guide to the extension table will
not allow the required 9 table tilt.

Tilt the worktable 9 toward the abrasive. To adjust the sharpening guide to the desired angle setting, lay
the flat bottom of the bench chisel against the righthand wall of the second station. With the tip of the
chisel against the abrasive, pivot the sharpening guide until the bevel of the chisel sets flat against the
abrasive. Secure the sharpening guide in place.

Warning: Position the sanding disc to within 1/16" of the sharpening guide. Then secure the power
plant lock.

Belt Sander SetupSet up the belt sander vertically. Mount the sharpening guide to the table and
secure it by tightening the two lock knobs. Tilt the table 9 toward the table. Warning: Position and
secure the sharpening guide to within 1/16" of the belt and se-cure the table locking setscrews.
 Figure 24-32. Set the angle so
that the wheel is conetered on
the flat bevel. Tighten the wing
nut securely.
Figure 24-31. Slide the bench chisel into the abrasive. Hold the chisel there
momentarily, then back it away.

Strip Sander SetupBecause there are no table slots or mounting holes in the strip sander table, the
sharpening guide must be clamped to the table. An index line is used to align the guide. Draw this line 3-
5/8" from, and parallel to the platen as shown in Figure 24-8 earlier in this chapter.

When setting the table tilt and the sharpening guide angles, hold the chisel against the left wall of the
second station of the guide. Position the hole in the rear of the sharpening guide and the angle setting
indicator directly over the index line.

Slide the sharpening guide along the line until the chisel in the second station of the guide is in front of
the belt. Warning: Position the sharpening guide to within 1/16" of the belt. Then clamp the sharpening
guide securely to the table (Figure 24-30).

Grinding Bench ChiselsTurn on the machine and set the chisel in the second station of the sharpening
guide. Slide the chisel into the abrasive while holding it firmly against the left wall of the station. Hold the
chisel against the abrasive momentarily, then back it away (Figure 24-31).
Repeat this several times until any damage to the cutting edge is removed.

Grinding Bench Chisels using the Grinding Wheel

The Shopsmith Grinding Wheel mounts on the Mark V. Select the proper wheel for the severity of the
cutting edge damage (coarse for nicks and a badly worn cutting edge and fine for routine grinding). Set
up the grinding wheel according to the Owners Manual that came with the Grinding Wheel Accessory.

The bench chisel can be ground on the front or on either side of the grinding wheel. When the chisel is
ground on the front of the wheel, the bevel will be hollow ground. Because this hollow ground edge is so
thin, a secondary bevel will need to be honed on the cutting edge. This will be done with a coarse sharp-
ening stone.

When the chisel is ground on the side of the wheel, the bevel that is left is flat and can be honed to a razor
sharp cutting edge without the need for a secondary bevel. Warning: Grinding on the side of the wheel
is tricky because there is nothing but feel to guide the chisel to the proper angle and is not the best
approach. Use extreme caution.
Grinding Bench Chisels-Hold the chisel on the tool rest, loosen the wing nut and tilt the tool rest so the
bevel sets against the wheel. If the chisel has a flat bevel, set the angle so that the wheel is centered on the
flat bevel. Tighten the wing nut securely (Figure 24-32). Remove the chisel from the tool rest and make
sure the speed dial is set to "Slow". Then turn on the Mark V and set the speed dial to "R" (3400 RPM).

If the chisel is narrower than the width of the wheel, slide the chisel up into the wheel, hold it there
momentarily and back it away (Fig-ure 24-33).

If the chisel is wider than the wheel, follow the instructions above, except you must slide the chisel from
side to side after it comes in contact with the wheel (Figure 24-34).

Grind away only enough metal to remove any damage. This will complete grinding the primary bevel. To
create the secondary bevel, hone the chisel.

Honing Bench Chisels

The bench chisel has a bevel
ground on one side of its cutting
edge. This bevel as well as the
flat bottom face must be honed.
This will remove the grinding
burr and sharpen the cutting
edge.

Start with a coarse hone and

moderate-to-heavy pressure to
create the secondary bevel. By
repeating this procedure on
Figure 24-33. If the chisel is
Figure 24-34. If the chisel is progressively finer hones you will
wider than the width of the be able to hone the cutting edge
norrower than the width of the
wheel, move the chisel side to
wheel, hold the chisel there razor sharp.
side, then back it away.
momentarily, then back it away.
Using Oil Stones and Diamond
HonesHold the bevel of the
chisel on the hone. Slide the chisel
over the hone with the cutting
edge pointing in the same direction
you are sliding the chisel (Figure
24-35). Think of it as trying to
shave off a thin sliver of the hone.
Turn the chisel over and repeat the
procedure on the flat side.

Using Water Stones and Rubber

Bonded AbrasivesTo hone
bench chisels With a cutting edge
Wider than 1/2", follow the oil
Figure 24-35. Hone bench chisels on oil stones, by pointing the cutting stones and diamond hones instruc-
edge in the same direciton you are sliding the chisel.
tions.
 Figure 24-37. First, grind the
Figure 24-36. For narrow chisels, on water stones, point the cutting edge away primary bevel. Then grind the
from the direction you are sliding the chisel. strengthening secondary bevel.

For bench chisels with narrower cutting edges, slide the chisel over the hone with the cutting edge point-
ing away from the direction you are sliding the chisel (Figure 24-36). Think of it as trying to smooth over
the surface of the hone. Turn the chisel over and repeat the procedure on the flat side.

GRINDING PLANER AND JOINTER KNIVES

Jointer and planer knives need occasional maintenance. This upkeep consists of a simple cleaning and
honing of the knives on the machine (see the Jointer or the Planer Owners Manual). However, this type of
edge repair will only go so far before the knives need to be removed and thoroughly ground.

The best way to grind jointer and planer knives is to use the Shopsmith Grinding Wheel and Knife Sharp-
ening Accessory that mounts on the Mark V. Set up the grinding wheel according to the Owners Manual
that came with the Grinding Wheel.

Select the proper hard wheel for the severity of the cutting edge damage (coarse for nicks and a badly
worn cutting edge and fine for routine grinding). Warning: Never use the soft rubber-bonded abra-
sive or all-purpose wheels to grind jointer or planer knives. The sharp cutting edge of the knives
will dig into the soft wheel and cause the knife to be thrown from your hands, causing serious
hand cuts and damaging the wheel and the knife.

Remove the knives from the cutterhead according to the Jointer or the Planer Owners Manual. Planer and
jointer knives are ground in a two-step operation. First, the primary bevel is ground. Then a secondary
bevel is ground on the front edge of the primary bevel (Figure 24-37). This strengthens the cutting edge
and helps dissipate the heat during cutting.

After the knives are used, they can be either honed in the jointer or planer, or reground on the secondary
bevel. You will be able to regrind the knives in this manner several times until the secondary bevel be-
comes either wider than the primary bevel or wider than 1/8".

Grinding Wheel SetupSet the primary bevel angle by placing the knife on the knife rest in front of the
 Figure 24-38. Center the knife bevel on the wheel.
Figure 24-39. Hold the jointer knife
with one hand while sliding it back
and forth across the wheel.

knife guide. Loosen the wing nut and tilt the tool rest until the knife bevel is centered on the wheel
(Figure 24-38). Warning: Position the tool rest no further than 1/8" away from the wheel. Then
tighten the wing nut.

Position the knife guide behind the knife so that it aligns the knife parallel to and just touching the wheel.
Securely tighten the two screws that hold the knife guide in place. Remove the knife.

Grinding the KnivesBe sure that the speed dial is set to "Slow" Turn on the Mark V and set the
speed dial to "R" (3500 RPM). Hold the knife firmly on one end of the knife rest and feel for it seating
solidly against the knife guide.

The 4" jointer knives are held with one hand and slid back and forth across the knife rest (Figure 24-39).
The 12" planer knives are ground in three overlapping sections (Figures 24-40A, B, and C).

Slide the knife slowly across the knife rest and knife guide, and past the wheel. Caution: Keep the knife
moving. If you hesitate, the wheel will heat up the knife and turn the edge blue. This will ruin the factory
heat treating.

Grind the knives at this setting until the sparking stops. When the sparking stops, the knife should be
evenly ground.

If some of the nicks are still showing on the edge of the first knife, or only part of the bevel is ground,
you may need to reset the guide and continue grinding the primary bevel. But if the remaining edge
damage is minor or all but a slight part of the bevel is yet to be ground, the secondary bevel grinding
operation will grind away and true up the edge.

Grind the primary bevel on the other two knives at this setting. Then turn the speed dial to "Slow" and
turn off the machine.

Set the secondary bevel angle by loosening the Wing nut and resetting the tool rest approximately 10 to
15 toward the wheel. Tighten the wing nut.

Place the knife on the knife rest and reposition the knife guide so that the knife just touches the wheel
(Figure 24-41). Repeat the knife
grinding procedures explained
above, It should only take one or
two passes to grind the secondary
bevel.

It is not necessary to hone the

jointer and planer knives after they
are ground. The burr that is left on
the cutting edge is small, and will
be knocked off at the first contact
with the stock.

A
GRINDING SHAPER CUT-
TERS
Two and three wing shaper cutters
may be the most misunderstood
cutters in the workshop when it
comes to sharpening. It may appear
that all the complicated curved
wings, on each cutter, must be
identically ground and then honed
on their curved surfaces. Well this
is only partially true and not nearly
as difficult as it may sound. These
cutters need only be accurately
sharpened on the leading flat face.
B
For shaper cutters this is made easy
be using the Shopsmith Sharpening
Guide. By precisely grinding the
face of each wing of each cutter,
the cutting edge is sharpened.

Mount the sharpening guide on the

Mark V worktable and position it
according to the Owners Manual.
Mount the sanding disc and posi-
tion it 3" away from the worktable.

To mount the shaper cutter to the

sharpening guide, first, slip the
small rub collar on the 1/2" shaper C
arbor. Then slide the arbor, from
the bottom up, through the hole in Figure 24-40. Planer knives are gound in three overlapping sections: (A)
the base of the sharpening guide. grinding the left end, (B) grinding the right end, and (C) grinding the center.
 Slip the cutter over the arbor. Hold the cutter wing firmly against the
face of the sharpening guide. Install the tongue washer and nut.
Tighten the nut fingertight to hold the cutter in place (Figure 24-42).

Adjust the sharpening guide to the "0" setting. Position the guide on
the worktable until the disc will completely cover the face of the cutter
when the quill is extended. Lock the sharpening guide securely in
place (Figure 24-43).

Position the disc no further than 2" away from the face of the cutter
and lock the power plant lock.
Figure 24-41. Reposition the Extend the quill until the disc comes in full contact with the face of the
knife guide so that the knife just cutter. Slight adjustments of the sharpening guide may be needed at
touches the grinding wheel. this time to position the cutter face precisely in front of the disc.

Set the depth stop to "0" and lock it in place. When the quill is ex-
tended the abrasive will remove a slight amount of metal from the
wing.

Be sure that the speed dial is set to "Slow", then turn on the machine.
Allow the abrasive to contact the cutter for only a moment then allow
the quill to retract. Continue this until the sparking stops. Turn off the
machine.

With the quill retracted, unplug the Mark V, loosen and remove the
arbor nut and tongue washer holding the cutter in place. Slide the
cutter off the arbor. Rotate the cutter so that the flat of the next wing
Figure 24-42. Hold the cutter is facing the disc. Replace the nut and tongue washer. While holding
wing against the shrpening the cutter against the side of the sharpening guide, tighten the arbor
guide and tighten the nut nut securely.
finger tight.

Repeat the previous grinding steps without moving either the depth
stop, carriage or the power plant. Rotate the cutter as described above
to grind the third wing of the cutter. Then hone the face of each wing.

HONING SHAPER CUTTERS AND ROUTER BITS

It is a simple matter to remove the grinding burr from a shaper cutter
left by the abrasive. To avoid changing the cutter's profile, do not hone
its curved or beveled edges. Warning: Because of their size, router
bits are not easily ground soit is recommended that these bits only
be sharpened by honing the leading flat face.

To hone steel cutters and bits, start with a coarse hone (of any type)
and progress to fine. To hone solid carbide or carbide tipped cutters
and bits, you must use a diamond hone. As you progress, reduce the
Figure 24-43. Position the
cutter fully in front of the disc pressure applied to the hone.
and lock the guide in place.
Lay the flat face of the cutter or bit on the flat top surface of the hone with the rest of the cutter over-
hanging the edge. Rub the cutter or bit up and down the hone (Figure 24-44). Be sure to hold the cutter
flat against the surface of the hone while working it back and forth.

Count your honing strokes and hone each wing of the cutter or leading flat face of the bit an equal
amount. This will assure equal metal removal and keep the cutter or bit properly balanced. The slight burr
that may be created

after the grinding burr is removed from the cutter will be knocked oft when the cutter first contacts the
wood.

HONING MOLDER KNIVES

Warning: Molder knives should be honed only. Start with a coarse hone (of any type), then progress
to fine. Lay the flat face of the molder knife cutting profile on the surface of the hone with the rest of the
knife overhanging the edge.

To avoid changing the cutter's profile, do not hone its curved or beveled edges. Hold the knife flat against
the surface of the hone while working it back and forth. (Figure 24-45). Warning: Hone ONLY the
area of the knife that cuts the wood. Do not hone the part of the knife that is held Inside the
molder head. If the surface of the knife inside the molder head is thinned, the knife holding system
will be weakened and the knife may break.

Count your honing strokes and hone each molder knife an equal amount. This will assure equal metal
removal from each knife and keep the assembled molder head properly balanced. The slight burrs that
may be created by honing will be knocked off the cutting edges when the molder knives first contact the
wood.

HONING LATHE DUPLICATOR CUTTERS

Warning: Lathe duplicator cutters should be honed only. To hone the solid carbide cutters (round,
triangle, square or dia-mond), you must use a diamond hone. Warning: DO NOT attempt to grind the
solid carbide cut-ters. The carbide dust is hazardous and may cause health problems.

Figure 24-44. Lay the flat face of Figure 24-45. Lay the flat face of Figure 24-46. Lay the flat side of
the cutter on the surface of the hone the molder knife on the surface of the cutter on the surface of the hone
and rub the cutter across it. the hone and rub the knife back and and rub it across the hone.
forth.
Figure 24-47. To avoid honing a flat
spon in the round cutter, roll it Figure 24-48. Use the edge of ta curved slip sotne to hone the inside edge of
while honing. the cone cutter.

Lay the flat side of the square or triangle cutter on the surface of
the hone. Hold the edge of the cutter flat against the surface while
working it up and down the hone (Figure 24-46). Count your
honing strokes and hone each side of the multi-sided cutters an
equal amount. This will assure equal stock removal from each side
of the cutter.

To avoid honing a flat spot in the round cutter's profile, roll the
cutter as it is honed (Figure 24-47). Figure 24-49. Construciton details
of a mortising chisel support fixture.
To hone the cone (steel) cutter, start with a medium hone (of any
type). Hone the cutter progressing from medium to ultra-fine. Use the edge of a curved slip stone to
remove the burr on the inside of the cutter and produce a razor sharp edge (Figure 24-48).

Each cutter can only be honed a few times before its size and profile are reduced so that it will not match
the follower. When this happens, the cutter may be discarded or the follower can be sanded (by hand)
with fine sandpaper to match the cutter.

SHARPENING MORTISING CHISELS

The inside of the mortising chisels are ground and honed with special cone-shaped grinding stones
mounted in the drill chuck. The outside is then honed on a flat bench stone.

Grinding Mortising Chisels

Even when new the chisels will usually need to be ground or at least honed. All four corners as well as
the edges MUST be razor sharp. This is critical to the accurate operation of the mortising accessory.

Use the white conical grinding stone to sharpen the 1/4" chisel, and the red conical grinding stone to
sharpen the 3/8" and the 1/2" chisels.

To properly grind mortising chisels, a support fixture must first be made (Figure 24-49). The fixture will
be mounted to the miter gauge. Set up the Mark V in the horizontal boring mode. Instead of mounting a
drill bit in the chuck, install the proper grinding stone for the size chisel being ground.
 Figure 24-51. Lay the chisel on a
flat stone and move it back and forth
to remove the grinding burr.

Figure 24-50. Grind a mortising chisel as shown. Retract the quill and repeat
until the stone stops removing metal.

Clamp the support fixture on the

table. Set the chisel on the fixture
and back up the chisel with the rip
fence. Hold the chisel against the
fixture and the fence, and center
the chisel on the grinding stone
and lock the table in position.

Position the power plant, with the

stone mounted in the chuck, so
that the stone is 2" from the chisel. Figure 24-52. Use the cone-shaped grinding stone to remove the internal burr.
Extend the quill until the stone
touches the chisel and set the depth stop to "0" and allow the quill to retract. Warning: Be sure that the
speed dial is set to "Slow," then turn on the machine. Extend the quill until it contacts the chisel
momentarily then allow itto retract (Figure 24-50). Repeat this until the stone ceases to remove any more
metal.

Inspect the tips and the edges of the chisel. Look for the grinding burr on all edges and the four tips. If
there are still unground surfaces or tips, repeat the above steps to remove additional metal.

If the stone becomes loaded with metal particles, it can be cleaned. Turn off the Mark V and apply a
generous amount of oil to the stone. Rub the oil into the stone to lift out the metal particles.

Honing Mortising Chisels

After grinding is complete or the chisel has become slightly dull, hone the mortising chisel on a flat bench
stone and the cone-shaped grinding stone.

Lay the chisel flat on a bench stone and move it back and forth to remove the grinding burr from the
outside (Figure 24-51). Count the strokes and hone each side of the chisel an equal amount.

To remove the burr from the inside of the chisel, hand-hold the cone-shaped stone straight in the end of
the chisel and rotate the chisel back and forth several times (Figure 24-52).
Repeat the honing on the
bench stone with progres-
sively finer stones along with
the internal honing with the
cone-shaped stones until the
tips and edges are razor
sharp.

SHARPENING MORTIS-
ING BITS
Along with the chisels, the
bits must be periodically
sharpened. They can be honed
with contoured slips when
only slightly dull, but must be
filed and then honed after
they become extremely dull.
Clean the bit thoroughly
before attempt-ing to file or
hone it.

Filing Mortising Bits

Before the bits can be filed Figure 24-53. Construction details of a filing block for filing and honing
you must make a filing block mortising bits.
that fits in a vise (Figure 24-
53). Use drill bits, not mortis-
ing bits, to drill the holes in the filing block. Mortising bits flair out at the tip and will drill an oversized
hole.

Attach the filing block to the inside of the vise jaws with double-sided tape. Close the vise to within 1/
16". Slide the mortising bit in the proper hole with the cutting flutes of the bit parallel to the vise jaws and
no more than 1/4" above the top of the wooden blocks. Close the vise to clamp the bit in position (Figure
24-54).

Use a small square or rectangular fine single or double cut file to sharpen the cutting edges of the mortis-
ing bit. Filing should take only a couple of strokes. Start with the inside surface of the two side cutters.
Follow the "factory ground" angle on the inside of the bit.

File from the back of the cutting edge to the front on one of the side cutters. Count your strokes and
repeat the same number of strokes on the inside surface of the other side cutter (Figure 24-55).
In a similar manner, hold the file on the "factory ground" bevel forming the bottom relief angle of the bit
and file this surface. Count the strokes and repeat the same number of strokes on the other bottom relief
angle (Figure 24-56).

The final filing steps are performed on the front of the cutting edge. This will remove the burrs created by
the previous filing steps. Hold the file almost vertical against the front cutting bevel and push the file
down along the bevel (Figure 24-
57). Count the strokes and
repeat the same number of
strokes on the other front cutting
bevel.

Honing Mortising Bits

In most cases the use of a fine
enough file will sharpen the bit
sufficiently. If there is a burr on
the cutting edge, or tearing of Figure 24-54. Position the mortising
the wood fibers during use, bit in the filing block and close the
vise.
honing of the bit's cutting edge
will be necessary. Figure 24-55. File from the back of
the cutting edge to the front on the
Use a fine contoured slip stone. side cutters.
A triangular or a tear-drop shape
works well. These are usually oil
stones, rubber bonded abrasives,
or diamond hones. All work
equally well.

Hone only the inside edges of the

two side cutters (Figure 24-58)
and the two front cutting bevels
(Figure 24-59). Do not attempt
to hone the bottom relief angle
on the bottom of the bit. Honing
Figure 24-56. File the bottom relief
is done in the same manner as
angles from back to front
filing. Remember to count your
strokes and hone each surface
equally. Figure 24-57. File vertically to
sharpen the front cutting bevel.

Figure 24-58. Hone only the inside

edges of the two side cutters.
Figure 24-59. Hone the two front
cutting bevels.