Craft Beer & Brewing - February-March 2015 PDF

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COOK WITH BEER: HEARTY FAVES

Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine

FOR THOSE WHO


THE POWER OF PALE ALE | FAVORITE WINTER RECIPES | WHAT TO DO WITH BAD BATCHES | WOMEN IN BEER

MAKE AND DRINK


GREAT BEER

Magazine

The Power of

PALE
Brewers Share Their
le Ales
Favorite Pa
IPA or Imperial Pale?
Ale
Creative Pale Ale Recipes
40+ Pale Ales Reviewed
Feb-Mar 2015 |

HOW TO:
GET GREAT RESULTS PLUS:

FROM BEER KITS


The Not-So-Secret
History of
Women in Beer
BEERANDBREWING.COM

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When Your Cellared
Beer Hits Its Peak
Beercation: Philly!
& MORE
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| CONTENTS: FEB/MAR 2015 |
FEATURES

56
How Women Brewsters
Saved the World
In the first of a two-part series, Tara
Nurin explores the hidden-in-plain-sight
history of women and beer from prehistoric
times up through Prohibition.

62
Practical Parti-Gyle
Brewing
Parti-gyle brewing is a staple of historical
brewing and is still vital for brewers such

The Power of
as Londons Fullers Brewery. Homebrewer

PALE
and writer Joe Stange paid Fullers a visit to
learn how homebrewers can add parti-gyle
brewing to their arsenal (and why they
might want to).

68
Hopeless Homebrew
Solutions
Sometimes a batch of homebrew that you
crafted turns out to be a multi-gallon batch
of oops. What to do then? Emily Hutto offers
four creative solutions.

73
page 73
Ale The Power of Pale Ale
Brewers push the limits of style as this
second-largest selling craft-beer style
grows and adapts to hop-friendly palates.
74 | Pales in Comparison: A Pale
Ale Style Guide
80 | The Full Spectrum of Pale Ale
Are pale ale differences a regional
68 62 thing or an old-school/new-school
thing? Four craft brewers share
their thoughts on todays pale ales.
83 | Beyond Bitter:
Defining Imperial Pale Ale
Imperial pale ale is a derivative
style, one that could easily be
defined less by what it is than what
it isnt. But in the liquid arts, as in
those visual, incredible beauty is to
be found in the negative spaces.
89 | Pale Ale Reviews
Our blind-tasting panel tastes
through the best commercially avail-
able American Pale Ales and English
Pale Ales in the United States.

BEERANDBREWING.COM |3
| CONTENTS |
THE MASH
11 | Stats, Hot-Rod Your Beer-
Making Kit, Ballast Points
Homework Series, Beer
Slanging, and Whalez, Bro 102
18 | Beer Gear Guide
TRAVEL
19 | Love Handles
20 | Beercation: Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania
BREAKOUT BREWERS
28 | Kane Brewing Company
32 | Rockmill Brewery
28 16
36 | Dageraad Brewing
PICK SIX
40 | For Victory Brewing Cofounder
Bill Covaleski, choosing a dream
six-pack is like DJing: theres an
art to putting together the perfect
playlist. Here are the six tracks on
his current mix tape.
COOKING WITH BEER
44 | Winter Warmers
From Herb Marinated Goat Cheese
to an apple-brussels salad topped
with a tangy Beeranch Dressing
to an incredible rib-eye steak with
Blue CheeseBeer Butter and
crispy potato skins to tart Lem-
on-Beer Hand Pies, Chef Christo-
pher Cina has put together a menu
that will keep you warm while the
weathers cold.
IN THE CELLAR
44
50 | Past Its Prime? Vintage Beer
Warning Signs
Patrick Dawson, the author of
40
Vintage Beer, covers seven points
to consider when youre evaluating
a vintage beer.
HOMEBREWING
79 | Pale Ale Recipes
102 | Ask the Experts: Belgian
Yeast Strains
106 | Gear Test: Digital Hydrometers
and Refractometers 50
MORE Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine (print ISSN 2334-119X; online ISSN 2334-1203) is published bimonthly in February, April,
108 | Glossary & Techniques June, August, October, and December for $29.99 per year (six issues) by Unfiltered Media Group, LLC at 214 S. College Ave., #3,
Fort Collins, CO 80524; Phone 888.875.8707 x0; [email protected]. Periodical postage paid at Fort Collins,
113 | CB&B Marketplace CO and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine, PO Box 681, Stow,
MA 01775. Customer Service: For subscription orders, call 888.875.8708 x0. For subscription orders and address changes con-
116 | CB&B Retail Shop Directory
tact Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine, PO Box 681, Stow, MA 01775, [email protected]. Foreign orders must be
120 | Chill Plate paid in U.S. dollars plus postage. The print subscription rate for outside the United States and Canada is $39.99 U.S.

4| CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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| RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE |

The Power of

PALETag Team Pale Ale


Page 76
Ale
30-Minute Pale Ale
Page 79

City Boy American Pale Ale


Page 79

American Mate Pale Ale


Page 79

Rye Must You Label Me


Pale Ale
Page 85
BEYOND THE PALE:

Single Fin Belgian Blonde Ale


Page 30

No-Math Parti-Gyle Old Ale,


IPA, and ESB
Page 65

| CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE |

RECIPE PHOTO: MATT GRAVES; CONTRIBUTOR PHOTOS: COURTESY TARA NURIN; COURTESY JOE STANGE;
COURTESY CHRISTOPHER CINA; COURTESY EMILY HUTTO; COURTESY PATRICK DAWSON; JAMIE BOGNER

Tara Nurin is a nationally Joe Stange is a freelance As Executive Chef for the Emily Hutto is a Patrick Dawson is the Dave Carpenter is an
published freelance journalist who coau- Breckenridge-Wynkoop Colorado-born travel author of Vintage Beer, A avid hombrewer and
journalist and beer col- thored, with Tim Webb, dining concepts, writer with an affinity for Tasters Guide to Brews freelance writer. His
umnist and a Cicerone the seventh edition of Christopher Cina fermented beverages. That Improve over Time, writing has appeared in
Certified Beer Server. Good Beer Guide Belgium. oversees and inspires the Shes the author of a book that guides Zymurgy, and he contrib-
She runs Beer for Babes, He also is author of menus, operations, and Colorados Top Brewers the taster through the utes regular Web-exclu-
New Jerseys original Around Brussels in 80 culinary teams at all of and a contributor at apparent mysteries of sive content on our web-
beer appreciation group Beers. A former Associat- the restaurant groups many craft beer and cellaring beer. When not site at beerandbrewing.
for women, and serves ed Press newsman, his properties. In addition to food-centric publications. thinking or writing about com. He also develops
as publicity director for articles and photoshave cooking, Christophers Find her ethnography at beer, he is sleeping. curricula for our online
the Pink Boots Society. appeared in the New York talents are also evident emilyhutto.com. homebrewing classes at
She leads tasting and Times and many promi- in his photography, where learn.beerandbrewing
pairing workshops nent beer publications. his favorite subject is, of .com.
through her company, course, food.
Ferment Your Event.
6| CRAFT BEER & BREWING
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| THE MASH |

| 11
Allagash Brewing Co.

BEERANDBREWING.COM
Boston Beer Co.
Breckenridge Brewery
CITY
LOCATION

Brooklyn Brewery
Lagunitas Brewing Co.
New Glarus Brewing Co.
Stevens Point Brewery Co.
Lost Coast Brewery

REGION
North Coast Brewing Co, Inc.
Southern Tier Brewing Co.
COUNTRY New Belgium Brewing
STATE Alaskan Brewing Co.
STREET Summit Brewing Co.
Cold Spring Brewing Co.
Deschutes Brewery

WATER
GEOGRAPHIC

Great Lakes Brewing Co.


FEATURE
most popular themes. With the local nature of craft beer, it should come

SweetWater Brewing Co.


names come from? Not ones to leave a stone unturned, we categorized
names for beers, but have you ever wondered where the actual brewery

Long Trail Brewing Co.

MOUNTAIN
What's in a Name?
Association Top 50 list for 2013) and plotted them below to find the

Sierra Nevada Brewing


The craft-beer industry is known for having some unique and silly

the names of the top fifty craft-beer brands (based on the Brewers

Uinta Brewing Co.


as no surprise that location and geography feature prominently.

PENINSULA
Ballast Point Brewing Co.
Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
Bells Brewery, Inc.
Firestone Walker Brewing Co.

FOUNDER
Matt Brewing Co.

PEOPLE
PROPER
Gordon Biersch Brewing Co.

NAME
Odell Brewing Co
Founders Brewing Co.
BREWMASTER Karl Strauss Brewing Co.
INDIAN CHIEF Left Hand Brewing Co.
DOG Oskar Blues Brewery
Bear Republic Brewing Co.

REFERENCE
Flying Dog Brewery

HISTORIC

EVENT
LIFE
Victory Brewing Co.
Rogue Ales
21st Amendment Brewery

BREWING
Sixpoint Brewery
CraftWorks Breweries
Anchor Brewing Co.

By Brian Devine

BOAT
MARITIME
Shipyard Brewing Co.
Full Sail Brewing Co.

FISHING
Blue Point Brewing Co.
Harpoon Brewery
Ninkasi Brewing Co.

PATRON
SAINT
SPIRITUAL
Saint Arnold Brewing Co.
The Gambrinus Co.

NATURAL
Duvel Moorgat USA

SUPER
Stone Brewing Co.
| THE MASH |

Homework for
BEERSLANGING

Language
Homebrewers
ITS
NO SECRET that the roots of the IPA we ever brewed back when Peter
for Beer
Geeks
craft-brewing industry run deep into AHearn, our founding brewmaster,
the fertile soil of homebrewing. The was here. It was the first one we ever A quick and humorous key to
growth of the industry is largely depen- brewed commercially, and we got to
deciphering the slang terms
dent on talented and dedicated home- bring it back and give out the recipe.
thrown around in the world
brewers honing their craft and carving The pumpkin ale was a great collabo-
out their own turf in the craft-brewing ration between Home Brew Mart and
of Beer Geekdom.
revolution. Brewing Manager Aaron Justus. >> Tallboy
One brewery is taking it a step further In addition to making commercially [tawl-boi] noun
by providing the actual recipes to their available award-winning craft beer, Its 25 percent bigger! The Tallboy
beers by packaging them with the beers Ballast Point also operates Home Brew can holds a sweet 16 ounces of barley
themselves. The Homework Series Mart, a homebrew supply company in soda. Some breweries have taken it
from San Diegos Ballast Point is a line the San Diego area and the place where a step further, such as Oskar Blues
with their 19.2-ounce Stovepipe and
of beers designed to pay tribute to their Ballast Point founders Jack White and Sixpoint with their 22-ounce SILO.
homebrewing roots. Weve always Yuseff Cherney teamed up to start Crush that Heady Tallboy and then
been such an open book with our reci- Ballast Point. Ballast Point has such a solo that SILO of Resin, bro."
pes since we started Home Brew huge variety of styles of beer, and
Mart in 1992 and the brewery that desire for variety really goes >> Crushable
in 1996, says Colby Chandler, back to our homebrew roots, says [kruhsh-uh-bul] adjective
An easygoing, super-drinkable beer.
Ballast Points vice president and Chandler. Most of the pro brewers
These are well-balanced beers with
specialty brewer. Honoring here in San Diego started as home- low-to-medium alcohol by volume
our homebrewing roots is part brewers, and we love to be on (ABV) but tons of flavor that make
of our vision statement, and the front edge. We were doing a you want to go back for more again
putting the recipe on the bottle session IPA eleven years ago and and again. Example: Oh man, Found-
was something weve always an India Pale Lager nine years ers All Day IPA is so crushable.
wanted to do. ago. From the beginning weve
In fact, the very first beer always liked being able to go
>> UBI
Acronym for unexplained beer
released in the Homework into the homebrew shop, injury. The origin of this term is often
Series is a hoppy red ale see new trends, taste ingre- attributed to doctors in Britain, who
that Chandler designed as dients, and get tactile. would encounter inebriated patients
Red Scent Ale in 1998. That collaboration in the emergency room unable to
One his favorites to share connection between craft explain how they sustained their
injuries. Example: I got nine stitches
with his fellow home- brewery and homebrewers from a UBI last night. And apparently
brewers, it was a natural deepens this year as Home I also got married.
choice to be the flagship Brew Mart launches a
for the series. The first homebrew competition to >> Session IPA
one was my wedding see what beer will be the [sesh-un eye-pee-ay] noun
beer, and I was a little next in the Homework Synonym for pale ale. Boom!
selfish in wanting to have series. Not only will the
it again. winning beer join the >> Cuve
[koo-vey] noun & verb
Three more beers ranks of other outstanding While sometimes used to indicate
Belgian-Style Double beers in the series, but it exceptional quality, cuve generally
IPA, English-Style IPA, will also be debuted at the means that the beer is a blend. While
and Pumpkin Alehave National Homebrew Con- blending beers pre-carbonation
joined that Hoppy Red Ale ference, which takes place has been a practice for centuries,
blending finished beers has seen a
in the Homework Series. in San Diego this June.
boost in popularity of late (and is far
Says Chandler, We Ballast Points Homework more complicated than the tradi-
always wanted to package Series is available through- tional black and tan in a Shaker pint).
a Belgian IPA but didnt out the Southern California Example: Austin cuved nineteen
PHOTO: COURTESY OF BALLAST POINT

have the capacity to do it region, and the recipes are versions of pumpkin ale, and it tasted
on any kind of scale until available online at ballast- exactly the same.
now. The English-style point.com/beer-recipes.
IPA was the very first Steve Koenig

12 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| THE MASH |

Whalez, Bro. By Ansis Purins

Trending Online
Craft Beer & Brewings Web editors bring
you breaking craft-beer news and all-new
stories, tips-and-technique articles to help
you make your best beer, unique and tested
original beer recipes, revolutionary online
craft-beer and homebrewing education,
plus a free eNewsletter that will deliver
free tips, techniques, news, and special
offers. Heres what readers are following on
beerandbrewing.com:

Top Stories
7 Spicy Craft Beers to Try
Sriracha, the beloved and now iconic chili
sauce, has made its way into chips, hummus,
and even ice cream, so it was only a matter
of time before a brewery rolled out their
own tangy take. Oregons Rogue Ales, no
stranger to spicy beer with their Chipotle
Ale, announced that they will be releasing a
Sriracha Hot Stout. We highlight it and other
spicy beers from Ballast Point, Westbrook,
Burnside, Night Shift, and Twisted Pine.

Blood, Sweat, and Beer


A new film, Blood, Sweat, and Beer, follows
two start-up breweries in the first year of
their quest. Much like fellow craft-beer
documentarians of the film Crafting A Nation,
director and producer Alexis Irvin and
crew capture small business owners who
are revitalizing run-down areas of cities by
creating community gathering places.

Homebrewing Techniques
5 Way to Reuse Your Old Growler for
Homebrewing
If youre like us, then youve probably
assembled a small arsenal of growler jugs
over the years. Homebrewers are, however,
a resourceful lot, always searching for ways
to reuse old stuff. Check out five uses for
your old growler.

Top Recipes
Winter Warmer Recipe
With its malty character, this recipe is per-
fect for cold days with extract, partial mash,
and all-grain recipes. Free on the website.

14 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Imported by Latis LLC, Ridgefield, CT Rodenbach 2014 Latis, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

THE ORIGINAL SOUR.


Over the past two centuries, RODENBACH has earned its official status
as a Belgian National Treasure and one of the most awarded beers globally.
Michael Jackson referred to RODENBACH as a World Classic. With an active
yeast strain that is almost 200 years old, unique living micro-flora working
in the 294 oak foeders and local Poperingse hops, RODENBACH is the
original sour ale, imitated but never duplicated. Rudi Ghequire, brew master
for over 30 years, fondly describes his complex brew as tart and fruity with
extraordinary balance. Youll know when youre ready to enjoy RODENBACH.

CHARACTER IPENS WITH AGE


| THE MASH |

Hot-Rod Your
Beer-Making Kit!
Size doesn't matter, but the difference between homebrew magic and
homebrew disappointment comes down to quality ingredients and smart
technique. Try these tips (and our specially designed recipe on the opposite
page) to get great results from your kit. By Dave Carpenter

AS THE WINTER HOLIDAYS shrink sanitizing, dry hopping, and adding


to tiny dots in the rearview mirror, the fruit a breeze. Bigger Isnt
excitement and sensory overload that
accompanied the stretch from Thanksgiv-
The fermentors unique geometry
features sloping sides and a flat base to Always Better
ing to New Years Day now give way to a effectively collect trub, hops matter, and
new reality: Its an awfully long time until other sediment. Even after you master the small-
Memorial Day. Getting through the next The integrated spigot obviates the need batch brewery and move on to larg-
er volumes, there are some good
few months is going to take patience, per- to rack and makes bottling a piece of reasons to hold onto your original
severance, and a healthy dose of craft beer. cake (attach a foot-long piece of sani- equipment kit:
If you received a department store tized tubing to the spigot to cut down
brewery-in-a-box starter kit (e.g., Mr. on splashing when you bottle). Small-batch brewing: Maybe
Beer, Coopers DIY, or the Beer Machine) there are times when you neither
as a gift over the holidays and brewed your So why dont these equipment kits enjoy a want nor need five gallons of
homebrew. Brewing in small
first batch before saying good-bye to 2014, better reputation among seasoned home- amounts might simply be more
then you may have already sampled your brewers? I think it comes down to two convenient for your lifestyle.
initial foray into homebrewing. If not, you things: snobbery and bad first experiences. Lager and high-gravity brewing:
will very soon. Only a good dose of humility can chip Achieving the optimal pitch rate
While these off-the-shelf kits are certainly away at the first of these (and even then, for lagers and high-gravity beers
easy to use and a good way to get into home- not always), but the second is easily reme- can be quite a challenge when
you need to inoculate five gallons
brewing, the resulting beer doesnt always died with a simple shift in perspective and or more. But when you work with
meet the expectations of todays discerning process. With quality ingredients, these small volumes, its much easier to
craft-beer enthusiast. If after a couple of kits can turn out excellent beer with just a pitch enough yeast for the job.
weeks of waiting, youve opened your first few minutes more of your time. Split batches and experimental
bottle, taken your first sip, and wondered brewing: Splitting a 5-gallon
why it tastes so, well, amateur, trust us: Drink Fresh batch into two or more smaller
batches offers you an opportu-
Youre not the first to be underwhelmed. Picture the freshest, most delectable bread nity to play with different yeast
But dont panic and dont give up! Great youve ever tasted. Imagine the dense chewy strains, experiment with fruit
beer is more about quality ingredients crust that gives way to a tender interior. additions, and more.
than it is about the equipment you use. Think of the yeasty, slightly tangy aroma Expanding your horizons:
Sure, certain equipment upgrades can and layers of nuanced flavor. Im willing to Sure, youre a great homebrewer,
make your brew day more efficient and bet that this loaf didnt come from a store- but have you ever tried your
hand at mead, cider, wine, or
let you make beer in greater volumes, but bought bread-machine mix. Yes, decent, sake? Small-equipment kits offer
you can brew excellent beer using these perfectly edible bread can be made using a the perfect venue to try before
mass-market kits. In fact, the inherent bread mix and a countertop machine. But you buy, so to speak.
simplicity of such kits makes them a great much better bread requires quality flour,
choice for would-be homebrewers who pure water, healthy yeast, a bit of salt, and
dont have a lot of extra space and arent some of your own precious time.
ready to transform the spare bedroom The same is true with beer. You might
into a science lab. The 2.1-gallon (8-liter) be able to make passable beer using
Mr. Beer fermentation vessel, for example, canned-ingredient kits, but the number
offers several advantages: one way to improve your beer is to brew
from fresh malt, hops, water, and yeast. If
The units small size is ideal for apartment youre ready to put your kit to the test and
dwellers and others with space constraints. see what it can do, try our kit-scale pale ale
The wide mouth makes cleaning, recipe on the oppposite page.

16 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Make It
Hackers Delight
Pale Ale
EXTRACT

This recipe makes 2 gallons (7.5 liters) of beer,


suitable for fermentation in a 2.1-gallon (8-li-
ter) Mr. Beer kit. The ingredients are readily
available from your local homebrew supply
store or from Internet-based retailers. Weve
specifically chosen the hops quantities so
that you can purchase in 1-ounce increments
without leftovers, and the quantity of liquid
malt extract corresponds to small quart-sized
jugs of extract. Just rememberbuy fresh!

BATCH SIZE: 2 gallons (7.5 liters)


OG: 1.057
FG: 1.014
IBUs: 40
ABV: 5.6%

MALT/GRAIN BILL
3.15 lb (1.43 kg) pale liquid malt extract
4 oz (113 g) Caramel 40, crushed

HOP SCHEDULE
0.50 oz (14 g) Citra at 20 minutes
0.50 oz (14 g) Citra at 2 minutes
0.50 oz (14 g) Cascade at flameout
0.50 oz (14 g) Centennial at flameout
0.50 oz (14 g) Cascade at dry hop (7 days)
0.50 oz (14 g) Centennial at dry hop (7
days)

DIRECTIONS
Place 1 quart (1 liter) of cold water in a
3-gallon (10-liter) or larger stockpot, place
crushed Caramel 40 malt in a mesh bag,
and place the mesh bag in the cold water.
Heat the stockpot over medium heat until
the temperature of the water and grain
reaches 155F (68C). Remove the grain,
add the malt extract, top up with 2 gallons
(7.5 liters) of water, and bring to a boil.
Boil for 20 minutes, following the hops
schedule. Chill the wort to 66F (19C)
and transfer to the fermentor. Top up to 2
gallons (7.5 liters) total if needed and add
the yeast. Ferment 10 days at 66F (19C),
then add dry hops. Bottle after 7 days of
dry hopping.

YEAST
1 package White Labs WLP001 California
Ale, or
1 package Wyeast 1056 American Ale, or
package Safale US-05
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 17
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18 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| LOVE HANDLES |

The Great Bittercreek Moeder


Lost Bear Alehouse Lambic
Portland, Maine Boise, Idaho Brussels, Belgium
An old-school beer bar with the best of A super cellar in low-key Boise Confident curators of taste
Maines beer scene on tap in the capital of Beer Paradise

WHAT IT IS: The Great Lost Bear has WHAT IT IS: Boise probably isnt the first WHAT IT IS: Brussels has an array of
been slinging beer since 1979, earning its place you think of when it comes to west- great cafs, but sometimes beer geeks
reputation as a Portland institution and a ern U.S. beer cities, but this gastropub pass through town, between trains, and
haven for craft beer. Of the seventy-eight is making a convincing argument that it have time for only one. Moeder Lambic is
taps, most are pouring New England deserves consideration. With thirty-nine the one they choose. They arrive to find
beers, and the highlights are from options on draft, a completely stacked cellar, an ample terrace beneath a wrought-iron
Maines great brewersfrom classics and a thoughtful menu that includes the Art Deco awning. Inside is a long, mod-
such as a Gritty McDuffs Black Fly Stout likes of duck confit poutine and ksesptzle, ern space with simple wooden booths
or an Allagash Curieux to the latest hoppy Bittercreek Alehouse checks all the boxes and a bar with forty shiny taps whose
offering from the buzzed-about Bissell and then some. offerings are scrawled overhead in chalk.
Brothers Brewing. The food menu is Behind the bar are an additional six cask
equally extensive and delicious; paper WHY ITS GREAT: One look at the hand-pulls, most dedicated to pumping
ephemera and old photographs hang expertly chosen draft and cellar lists at authentic lambics; sparklers on the fonts
throughout the spacious bar and dining Bittercreek makes it obvious that Pro- add froth for presentation. Bottled beers
room; and theres almost always a pint prietor Dave Krick knows beer. In fact, are virtually all 75cl, carefully chosen,
deal or special event going on any night most beer geeks will spend the majority and meant for cellaring and eventually
of the week. of their time with their noses buried in sharing.
WHY ITS GREAT: A trip to the Bear the page-turner of a beer menu. While
feels like seeing an old good friend the draft list includes the one-two punch WHY ITS GREAT: The staff knows its
with whom you havent talked in years; of Pacific Northwest and Rocky Mountain stuff and receives frequent training in
you can pick up right where you left off options (with the likes of Double Moun- the art of gentle education. Regular beers
without missing a beat, and first-timers tain and Odell barrel-aged obscurities), it emphasize smaller Belgian breweries
and thirsty travelers will feel at home in also has a good representation of carefully that make consistently characterful beers;
no time. Its entirely unpretentious, but selected offerings from the growing local local stars Cantillon and Senne get pride PHOTOS FROM LEFT: HEATHER VANDENENGEL, BITTERCREEK ALEHOUSE, JOE STANGE
they take their beer seriously, and with brewing scene. But its the cellar list thats of place. Guest taps show the same choos-
their extensive and constantly rotating the real draw. Not only is it super deep, iness but widen the map to feature Italy,
selection, its the best spot in town to try but the laid back nature of the Boise Spain, Germany, and beyond. (U.S. beers
a beer from a new brewery, make an un- crowd has allowed bottles such as 2010 are rare here because the staff cant vouch
expected discovery, or indulge in a hearty Drie Fonteinen Gueze and various Batch for their freshness after the boat ride.)
plate of nachos, a few rounds of Oxbow #1 bottles from Anchorage Brewing Co. to They are picky so that customers need
Farmhouse Pale Ale, and get pulled into still grace the pagesand at a fraction of not be. It is theoretically possible to order
conversation with the friendly, devoted the cost youd expect. Patrick Dawson a bad beer here, but its difficult. It is even
locals. Heather Vandenengel more difficult to leaveeven when theres
a train to catch. Joe Stange
Details Details
Hours: 11:30 a.m.11:30 p.m. MondaySaturday, Hours: 11:00 a.m.1:00 a.m. MondayThursday, Details
Noon11 p.m. Sunday 11:00 a.m.2:00 a.m. Friday, 8:30 a.m.2:00 a.m. Hours: 11 a.m.2 a.m. Friday & Saturday, 11
Address: 540 Forest Ave., Portland, ME SaturdaySunday a.m.1 a.m. SundayThursday
Web: greatlostbear.com Address: 246 N 8th St., Boise, ID Address: Place Fontainas 8, Brussels, Belgium
Web: bcrfl.com/bittercreek/ Web: moederlambic.com

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 19
| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |
Opposite, top The
tap list at Khyber Pass Pub
can be intimidating, but
bartenders are happy to help.
Opposite, bottom
A wall of windows separates
Yardss popular tasting room

Philly:
from the brewhouse.

Beer Done with Intensity


(and a Wry Sense of Fun)
As an epicenter for nineteenth-century brewing, Philadelphia seized hard
on this centurys beer resurgence long before most East Coast cities
had even caught a hops-scented whiff. By Tara Nurin

BREWING PIONEERS SUCH AS Carol burgers. The Taps local-beer-only policy


Stoudt of Stoudts, Rosemarie Certo of first brought awareness to the native
Dock Street, and Tom Kehoe of Yards brewery scene and anchored the revival of
PHILLY METRO Brewing still help set the pace for the Phila- Northern Liberties (NoLibs).
BY THE NUMBERS delphia region, which continues to set stan-
dards with its breweries, bars, and Belgian
From day one we wanted this to be the
neighborhoods unofficial town hall, the

74
connections. As with everything, including neighborhoods living room, says William
their sports teams, Philadelphians do beer Reed, who launched Standard Tap in 1999.
& BREWPUBS
BREWERIES

with intensity. Unlike with their sports Jerrys Bar brings modern meaning to
teams, with their beer, they also add a wry the gastropub label. Selections such as
sense of fun. You can walk into almost any Bean Dream from Pizza Boy Brewing
bar on almost any corner and find at least (Enola, Pennsylvania), Invasion from

18
one local knob and a Citywide Speciala Cigar City (Tampa, Florida), and Sidra
shot of whiskey and a PBR chaser. De Nava from Virtue Cider (Fennville,
Almost every section of Philly has a Michigan) line up next to an expert cock-
HOMEBREW

little brewery now, and there are so many tail list and house-smoked meats to earn
more in planning, marvels Kehoe. Be- it the designation best new gastropub of
SHOPS

cause its so hard to wrap your lips around the year from the citys most respected
the breadth of beer in this region, its restaurant critic.

54
practical to concentrate on a few walkable In Fishtown, entrepreneurs are adding
neighborhoods. bars seemingly by the month to the streets
that once housed little more than Reeds
GABF GOLD

PHOTOS: DANYA HENNINGER

Northern Liberties intentionally grungy music venue, Johnny


MEDALS

and Fishtown Brendas. JBs still pounds out the tunes


Said to be the bar that birthed the term along with Reeds signature locals-only
gastropub, Standard Tap is dog friendly beer program, but now its surrounded by
and beloved for its rooftop brunch and other places of note. Barcade patrons play

20 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |

South Philly
For a taste of the old guard, eat brunch
at the landmark South Philly Tap Room,
then stop in at Pub on Passyunk East (one
the nations best La ChouffeBrasserie
dAchouffe (Belgium)accounts) before
strolling for beers on East Passyunk
Avenue. You cant go wrong eating at any
of the acclaimed restaurants, but to plan
your meal around beer, have a $5 burger
followed by a Carton of Milk Stout (Carton
Brewing, Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey)
at the unassuming Franklin Porter or a
small-batch domestic at Stateside.
Bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB) restau-
rants line the avenue, so prepare yourself
with a bottle run to BrewA Beer Bou-
tique, which houses Ultimo Coffee, rated
the countrys best coffee shop by TheDai-
lyMeal.com. Or skip the coffee and the
hassle by staking out the stationary food
truck at Garage, where a rotating cadre
of guest chefs serve dishes to can-sipping
swillers in a converted auto repair shop.
Off the avenue, gather with drinkers
who worship craft beer and the servers
who sell it to them at Devils Den and The
Industry, respectively. Its fireplace and
Clockwise from top 1980s arcade games while they do battle homey atmosphere notwithstanding, Dev-
left Sip from classic liter with Victorys Golden Monkey and Trogs ils Dens sour events and regular limited
mugs at picnic tables in
Frankford Halls gravel- Trogenator, while drinkers at the Frank- releases bring hard-core beer nerds in to
covered beer garden; ford Hall Biergarten drink enough Bells worship at the temple of beer-bar-owning
Standard Tap is a gathering (Kalamazoo, Michigan) Two Hearted diva Erin Wallace. Drinking here saves
place for the Northern
Liberties neighborhood; find along with German specialtiesto earn it you a trip to the suburbs if you want to
an all-local, all-draft, all-day recognition as a top Bells account. taste Wallaces GABF-winning ales brewed
beer party at Johnny Brendas Yards Brewing Company lies between at her new Barren Hill Tavern & Brewery.
in Fishtown.
Fishtown and the SugarHouse Casino. If you work in a restaurant or bar, bring
Try a flagship Philadelphia Pale Ale or the your paystub to receive 20 percent off your
Ales of the Revolution series, modeled bill at The Industry, a restaurant designed
after recipes written by former Philly as an in-the-biz hangout where bottles of
dwellers Benjamin Franklin, George Russian River (Santa Rosa, California) and
Washington, and Thomas Jefferson. Brooklyn Brewery (Brooklyn, New York)
PHOTO: DANYA HENNINGER

While in NoLibs and Fishtown, stock up Cuve Noir are de rigueur.


on bottles at The Foodery and Bottle Bar
East. No thanks to Pennsylvanias case
law, its tough to find stores where you can
buy by the single.

22 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA | In addition to pours from the
namesake taps, Alla Spina
offers a selection of local and
Italian craft bottles served in
Rastal Teku glassware.

But Wait,
Theres More
Notable Breweries Elsewhere in
the City
Locals rate Philadelphia Brewing,
located in a restored nineteenth-cen-
tury Kensington brewhouse, as their
favorite place to hang out following
a brewery tour. Its never the same
beer twice at Mt. Airys Earth Bread
+ Brewery, known for its flatbreads,
dizzying succession of beer recipes,
and owners who founded New
Jerseys much-missed Heavyweight
Brewing in the 1990s. In Manayunk,
try Manayunk Brewerys Schuylkill
Punch mixed berry ale while relaxing
on the waterfront deck.

Notable Breweries in the Burbs


Locals clamor to visit newcomers
Tired Hands, Neshaminy Creek,
and Springhouse, adorable Forest
and Main, and Free Wills new-and-
improved tasting room and extensive
sour program. The GABF-winning
Iron Hill brewpub chain constantly
adds new locations. Two of the most
popular lie at the end of a short ride
into New Jersey, close to Flying Fish,
maker of the famed Exit Series. To the
west, Victory is opening a huge new
production brewery and brewpub Pistolas always has some of the hardest-
that can be visited (by reservation)
on a bus trip that includes lunch and
to-find beers on tap to pair with cheap
a tour of the existing brewhouse. Mexican eats.
German traditions continue far into Rittenhouse Square, sparkling with
the countryside at the mainstays of Greater Center City luxury shopping, restaurants, and wine/
Trogs and Stoudts, and Belgian Monks Caf, once described by a national cocktail bars, houses two prime beer spots.
brewing reigns at Weyerbacher. beer glossy as one of the top five places to Tria Taproom builds on the impeccable
Notable Bars Elsewhere in the City
drink a beer before you die, is why Phila- reputation of its sister wine-and-cheese
If theres one place to find a partic- delphia is a test market for Belgian beers, cafs to present an all-draft list of beer,
ular German beer, its at Brauhaus why Philadelphia consumes more Belgian wine, cider, and soda; and The Dandelion
Schmitz, on South Street, where beer than any city outside Brussels, and pours celebrity restaurateur Stephen Starrs
dirndl-clad lasses serve steins to why four pairs of Philadelphians have won acumen for ambiance and taste into an
fans cheering on favorite teams in contests to brew at De Proefbrouwerij, upscale British pub that serves three cask
televised soccer matches. In the
northeast, practically no week passes
Brasserie Dupont, Brasserie de la Senne, ales and small-batch British beers by the
without Grey Lodge Pub owner Mike and Brouwerij Dilewyns. A member of the flight, half-pint, or Imperial pint.
Scotese inventing some goofy holiday Belgian Knighthood of the Brewers Mash, Slightly farther afield are Strangeloves,
that gives him an excuse to don a Tom Peters masterminded Monks, and with its deeply beer-reverent owners and
costume and bring up good stuff from he hires educated and patient bartenders polished caf and bottle shop vibe; Varga
the cellar. And in the Loft District and to help patrons decipher the names of Bar, whose ceiling beams down painted
Point Breeze, Prohibition Taproom
and American Sardine Bar are con-
300 lofty brews, bound together in a thick images of vintage pin-up girls that are
sidered among the most legit. leather menu. Try the mussels and a beer only slightly more eye-catching than
you cant pronounce. the Russian Riverheavy bottle list; and
Notable Bars in the Burbs Its insane what you can get now, says funky-sophisticated Alla Spina, where you
Well keep it basic and old school here. Peters, who opened the cozy but crowded can spend the night eating pig tails and
The five most influential suburban Monks eighteen years ago, of Phillys selec- washing them down with beer cocktails
craft-beer bars are Teresas Caf
(Wayne), Iron Abbey (Horsham), Ca-
tions. Its an embarrassment of riches. and milkshakes and eight-year-old bottles
pones Restaurant, Bar, and Bottle Near Monks are two more early adopt- of Nora and Al-Iksir from Birreria le Bala-
Shop (Norristown), Hulmeville Inn ers. Good Dog Bars burger has been rated din (Piozzo, Italy).
(Hulmeville), and Isaac Newtons one of the best in the United States, and
DANYA HENNINGER

(Newtown). you can usually find off-duty bartenders


from other beer bars there nursing a
Founders or a Firestone Walker. Jose

24 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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BEERANDBREWING.COM | 25
| BEERCATION: PHILADELPHIA, PA |

Opened recently, 2nd Story Brewing


takes over a spacious post-industrial space
to brew European and American styles.
Desserts are decadent, especially the
Colonial Porter Banana Cake and The Big
and Boozey Adult Sundae, both of which
feature ice cream made with the house
stout at the historic Franklin Fountain
around the corner.

West Philly and Graduate


Hospital
West Phillys City Tap House boasts the
most taps in the city (sixty), and you could
cheerfully drink whats pouring from any
one of them. If theres Russian River to be
found on tap in the city, you can usually
find it at Local 44. The bottle shop next
dooralso owned by Local 44s owners,
who run Strangeloves and the ever-
cherished Memphis Taproom in the Kens-
ington neighborhoodoffers a quieter
place to drink from a few taps or bottles.
Be sure to fill your bank account before
you comethe selection is tightly edited
to reflect only the most covetable (read:
expensive) bottles.
In a historic firehouse, Rosemarie
Certo decided to reopen Dock Street as a
flatbread-focused brewpub after con-
tract brewing the beer she created as the
citys first microbrew in 1985. If youre
Top Trogss tasting room
features longtime classics
Old City luckyor unluckyyou may stumble
plus experimental brews you Beer lovers should make a pilgrimage to into a hidden stash of the infamous Walk-
wont find anywhere else. Eulogy Belgian Tavern, which crams thirty er, a pale American stout brewed with
Above House-brewed taps and 400 bottles into the narrow row- goat brains in honor of The Walking Dead
beers are designed to
complement the food at 2nd house where jewelers founded Bailey, Banks TV series.
Story Brewing. & Biddle in 1832. Slurp mussels and try a Graduate Hospital (G-Ho) lies on the
sour Haandbakk from Haandbryggeriet fringes but supports enough beer bars to
(Drammen, Norway) or a cheese-and-choc- make it worth a trip. Philadelphians con-
olate-loving Chocarrubbica oatmeal stout sistently vote Pub & Kitchen as the best bar
from Grado Plato (Chieri, Italy). in the city; The Sidecar Bar & Grille and
Khyber Pass Pub has been a dive bar Grace Tavern have carried the mantle for
since before dive bars were cool. It was years; and a team comprised of a veteran
PHOTOS: DANYA HENNINGER

also a beer bar before most people had bartender and chef has launched Devils
heard the term. Special events bring Pocket Food & Spirits with twelve taps.
knockouts such as Cantillon Iris Grand Beer in this town is like a pebble, says Pe-
Cru (Anderlecht, Belgium) and Loverbeer ters. You throw it in the water and it keeps
Madamin (Marentino, Italy). generating more and more around it.

26 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEERANDBREWING.COM | 27
| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

The Garden
Statesman Kane Brewing Company is using West Coaststyle ales and Belgian-style
beers to bring craft beer to New Jersey. By Emily Hutto

WHEN MICHAEL KANE LAUNCHED gian-style beersas a platform to bring


Kane Brewing Company (Ocean, New Jer- local craft beer to New Jersey.
sey) in 2011, he brought more than fifteen Kanes West Coast focus was inspired by
years of homebrewing experience, nation- traveling, when he was blown away by the
al and international travel, and business differences between East and West Coast
savvy to the brewhouse. Appropriately IPAs. Compared to English styles [in the
named, Kane Brewing is an embodiment East], I was blown away by the really dry,
of Kane himself with a sense of place hoppy, aromatic IPAs [in the West]. It was
specific to his hometown. a whole new world.
I didnt leave my day job to start the West Coaststyle IPAs have scaled-back
brewery until I was thirty-five, says Kane. malt profiles and are focused on bright
The beauty of what I wanted to do is a flavors and aromatic profiles, says Kane.
long-term approach, to open a brewery and Thats our philosophy with hoppy beers:
do my own thing with no partners or in- a lot of pilsner malt, a tiny bit of crystal,
vestors. Ive spent a lot of time focused on and the rest is just the hops.
being able to do this on my own, and I have The Kane IPAs, including the Head High
a clear vision to bring craft beer to New American IPA and the Overhead imperial
Jersey. I dont say that without the knowl- IPA, have the slightest clean bitterness
edge of great breweries in the area, Kane that hits you in the beginning, says Kane.
continues, But more to bring awareness to They use neutral yeasts to maintain the
what is not exactly a craft-beer state. focus on the flavor of the hops and are
Kane, who grew up in New Jersey, says usually dry hopped for big hops aroma.
that the state has an educated consumer We brew what we like, Kane reminds
base for craft beer without a lot of craft- me when he describes the other beer
beer production. It wasnt [about] getting style for the brewery. A lot like his IPAs,
consumers on board, he says in reference his Belgian-style Single Fin Belgian-style
to the European-beer-style-loving East blonde ale is clean, bright, and crisp. This
Coast beer drinkers. It was getting retail- year-round offering from the brewery is
PHOTO: TYLER BURTON

ers and wholesalers to realize there was a one that beer geeks love, Kane says. We
market for this kind of product. So Kane modeled it after a Belgian singlesuper
decided he would use his two favorite beer low alcohol, drinkable, flavorful, dry, and
categoriesWest Coaststyle ales and Bel- crisp on the palate. Light in body, Belgian

28 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEERANDBREWING.COM | 29
Make It
Single Fin
ALL-GRAIN

The recipe for Single Fin, a Bel-


gian-style blonde ale, is very simple,
says Michael Kane of Kane Brewing
Co. We focus on getting great ingre-
dients and the fermentation profile to
create a majority of the flavor.

OG: 1.042
FG: 1.008
IBUs: 23
ABV: 4.5%

MALT/GRAIN BILL
7.5 lb (3.4 kg) Continental pilsner malt
5 oz (142 g) Vienna malt
5 oz (142 g) Wheat

HOPS SCHEDULE
1 oz (28 g) Styrian Goldings at 90
minutes
0.25 oz (7 g) Styrian Goldings at
knockout
0.25 oz (7 g) Saaz at knockout

DIRECTIONS
Mash for 90 minutes at 148149F
(6465C). Boil for 90 minutes single seemed to be the obvious choice. panding barrel program, including bour-
following the hops schedule. Chill to We thought it would be a good platform bon, tequila, French and American oak,
64F (18C), then pitch the yeast. Hold for pulling flavor out of yeast and malt, at brandy, and cognac barrels. This program
the temperature at 64F (18C) for 12 only 4 percent ABV. yields such beers as the annual release
hours, then raise it to 70F (21C) over Single Fin, like a lot of the other Bel- A Night To End All Dawns, a 12 percent
the course of fermentation (about 1 gian-style beers at the brewery, is brewed ABV imperial stout that ages in bourbon
week for primary). with Trappist-style yeast, says Kane. barrels for fifteen months. In 2014, Kane
Our first, and the yeast we liked the created three additional versions of A
YEAST best, is Belgian Abbaye 2 (ECY13) from Night To End All Dawnsone aged on
East Coast Belgian Abbaye 2 (ECY13) East Coast Yeast. Thats what weve used Madagascar bourbon vanilla beans, one
or other Trappist yeast the most.[But] we love to experiment, aged on dark roast coffee from nearby
so weve also tried White Labs Trappist Rook Coffee Roasters, and one aged on
BREWERS NOTES (WLP500), and were about to try some roasted cacao beans.
Kane recommends that you start with batches using their Belgian Abbey Many of the retired wine barrels that
0.25 ounce (7 grams) each of Styrian Yeast (WLP530). For most of the year Kane uses come from two local New
Goldings and Saaz at knockout and we have a saison strain as well. Most Jersey wineries: Working Dog Winery in
then adjust to flavor. recently weve been using a blend of four East Windsor and Valenzano Winery in
different strains from East Coast Yeast, Shamong. For Kane Brewing, the empha-
Recipes are built to yield a batch size of but weve used the single Dupont strain sis is on New Jersey whenever possible.
5 gallons and assume 72% brewhouse from White Labs in the past for both our We use a lot of different products that
efficiency unless otherwise noted. saisons and wits, he says. come from New Jersey in our beers, says
At Kane Brewing, the Belgian-style Kane. Coffee, ingredients from local
beers are dry and highly carbonated. farmers, and even a local microbiologist
Our Belgian-style quad, for example, with a small yeast companyweve used
is between 11 and 12 percent ABV, dark, his Trappist yeast strain.
and very dry. Its traditional, with higher New Jersey is smack in between New
carbonation and dark fruit notes, Kane York and Philadelphia, so the area is gate-
says. We want to honor the Belgian way to many other craft-beer cities, Kane
tradition, but are by no means experts in says. Some brewers have even moved
PHOTO: TYLER BURTON

Belgian-style beers. Were an American past New Jersey because markets are
craft brewery with a twist. easier to penetrate elsewhere. We [self-dis-
Often responsible for that twist are the tribute] and have mostly draft sales. Were
150 non-sour barrels in the brewerys ex- totally focused on New Jersey.

30 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


AMERICAN INNOVATION
WGC-50
6-10 CANS PER MINUTE

WGC-100
27-31 CANS PER MINUTE

WGC-250
38-42 CANS PER MINUTE

Were pretty darned happy with the machine and the folks that
stand behind it. Your product is great and your people are great.
Billy Pyatt
CATAWBA BREWING COMPANY

1750 55TH STREET, UNIT B


BOULDER, COLORADO 80301
T: 720.406.7442
F: 720.255.2265
| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

The Gastronome
Rockmill Brewery is designing Belgian-inspired beers that are brewed to
be paired with food and is targeting chef-driven states for distribution.
By Emily Hutto
MATTHEW BARBEE, THE OWNER aromatics immediately! I was thinking,
and head brewer of Rockmill Brewery Whoa, whoa, whoa! This isnt beer.
(Lancaster, Ohio), had what he calls his first But it was beer. Barbee would soon dis-
saison experience at Gjelina restaurant on cover the wonder of saisonsnot only did
Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice Beach, saisons and Belgian-style beers offer versa-
California. At the time, the young somme- tility to food pairing that hed not yet found
lier was most interested in wine and ad- with wine; they also provided a connection
mittedly up until that point had a haughty with Barbees agricultural roots. His grand-
attitude toward beer and food pairing. father was a winemaker and a farmer, and
I was riding my beach cruiser from his mother was a farmer, so the seasonality
Manhattan Beach to Venice Beach, he and locality of saison spoke to him.
recalls. It was a sunny afternoon; Id been Historically, every major [Belgian] farm
exercising; I was in the mood for a long had its own brewery on location. They
drink and not a short one. used what they had. The wheat might
Barbee and his companions ordered a be weak one year, so they brewed with
large format Dupont Saison and a salad with rye, or whatever they had access to. They
burrata cheese (a fresh Italian cheese made didnt let anything go to waste, Barbee
PHOTOS: BRIAN KELLETT

from mozzarella and cream) over arugula says. Saison is more of a mindset than a
with drizzled olive oil and grilled peaches. beer style. The underlying mindset to the
The bottle came with a cork and a cage, he etymology of saison helps give me a focus
remembers. The server popped the cork with beer design, he adds.

32 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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Hops, Grain, Malt Extract,
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BEERANDBREWING.COM | 33
| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |
Clockwise from top Rockmill Founder and

Beyond Brewmaster Matthew Barbee hase focused heavily on beer


and food events, extensively partnering with local chefs and

Saisons restaurants for tasting dinners; a spread of cheese and


appetizers on the brewery farmhouse table; Rockmills bucolic
farmhouse location is almost as large a draw as the beer.
Rockmill Brewery also crafts an
abbey-style ale, a witbier, a golden
ale, and a few barrel-aged beers.
Dubbel
ABV: 8%; IBUs: 46
Spicy German hops provide bal-
ance to dark fruits and specialty
malts in this abbey-style ale.
Witbier
ABV: 6%; IBUs: 20
This wheat ale brewed with
coriander and orange peel has a
crisp, clean, refreshing body with
a citrus bouquet and subdued
bitterness.
Tripel
ABV: 9%; IBUs: 34
This golden ale is rich and full-
bodied with dried fruit and deli-
cate, spicy Saaz hops in the nose.
Cask-Aged Tripel
ABV: 10.5%
Aged in oak whiskey barrels from
Middle West Spirits, this golden
ale offers rich vanilla notes that
intermingle with the delicate notes
of the Ohio Winter Wheat Whiskey.

Beer and
Food Pairings
Here are Matthew Barbees
food-pairing suggestions for Rock-
mills year-round saisons.
Petite Saison
ABV: 6%; IBUs: 28 That first saison experience catalyzed perfect for autumn and winter, and it has
This sessionable saison has mild Barbees move home to Columbus, Ohio, a ridiculously sexy label.
spice and earthy notes. Pair it where he would open a saison-specific A little less sexy beer that will still turn
with sunshine and Vermont brewery, Rockmill Brewery, in 2012. some heads is Rockmills new experi-
Creamerys Cremont (mixed- Rockmill is a Belgian-style brewery that mental gluten-free saison, brewed with
milk cheese), a smoked salmon
croissant, or dill, bacon, and
sticks to the terroir of our water from a millet and buckwheat and fermented with
mushroom quiche. well at the brewery farm here in Rockmill. Rockmills saison yeast.
Saison
The minerality of our water is similar to Its all about the yeast, Barbee says.
ABV: 7%; IBUs: 34 that of Belgian beers, he says. [Its] hard Thats the responsibility of Belgian-style
Rustic, earthy, complex spice water, which I think adds structure and brewing. A big part of our focus is making
notes are prevalent in the aroma gives an edge to the beer. sure yeast has a healthy life cycle and
of this farmhouse ale, with flavors Although most of the beer produced at attenuation. We play Bach and Beethoven
provided by fermentation esters Rockmill falls into the saison category, no and whatever it feels like. That classical
and hops aromatics. Pair it with
cave-aged Gruyre, Croque Mon-
two beers are the same or even remotely music apparently makes for happy yeast,
sieur, or mussels. close. [Brewers] can really express them- which creates beers that are effervescent,
Saison Noir
selves through this style, says Barbee, dry, and drinkablethe most conducive
ABV: 8%; IBUs: 36 whose year-round beer offerings include for pairing with food in Barbees opinion.
This dark saison has the complex Petite Saison, Saison, and a brand-new Rockmill beers are designed to be
aromas and flavor of candied fruit Saison Noir. paired, says Barbee. We want this brewery
and sweet potato crme brle, This was my first time working with to find its niche in chef-driven states. I pick
followed by hints of caramel and roasted barley in saison, says Barbee the most competitive food markets out
mild tobacco in the finish. Pair it
with Ossau-iraty (a French sheep-
about the Saison Noir. We ended up with there [for distribution]. New York, Chicago,
milk cheese), cigars, or espres- beer Im obsessed with now. Its flavor California, Ohio, and Kentucky Colorado
so-encrusted cheesecake. component is candied fruit first and then is next on my list. I want to get involved
everything Id expect from roasted barley: with the Aspen Food and Wine Festival,
caramel, tobacco, and coffee roast. Its and I like to hang out in the mountains.

34 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |
Clockwise from top
Ben Coli and Mitchell Warner
of Dageraad Brewing in their
new taproom; Coli grains out
on brew day; Warner pulls a
sample from a fermentor.

PHOTO TKTKTKTKTKTKTKTKTKT

36 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Crafted in
the Belgian
Tradition,
Brewed in BC
Dageraad Blonde

The Global
ABV: 7.5%
A medium-dry blonde ale brewed
with a secret blend of spices.
Crowned with a fluffy white head,
graced with a fruity, spicy, citrusy aro-

Citizens
ma, and inspired by Belgiums strong
blonde ales.
FOOD PAIRINGS: Dageraad Blondes
citrus and spicy flavors complement
salads and desserts, while its tartness
and effervescence cut through fat
and refresh the palate, making it a
good counterpoint to heavier dishes.
Its also excellent paired with semisoft
At Canadas Dageraad Brewing, Brewmaster Ben Coli is out to create a little ripened cheeses and charcuterie.
piece of Belgium in British Columbia. By Emily Hutto Dageraad Amber
ABV: 6%
IN 2014, BEN COLI, the nerdiest among homebrew equipment to Dageraads cur- A hoppy aroma and a crisp finish bal-
his homebrew friends, took the home- rent 10-barrel system, that beer has never ance Dageraad Ambers light malty
brewers plunge and launched Dageraad tasted the same twice. sweetness and bouquet of malt and
Brewing, which he named after the Dag- Another homebrew recipe brought to life stone fruit.
FOOD PAIRINGS: Amber is an
eraadplaats (sunrise square in Flemish), at Dageraad is the brewerys saison. Its
easygoing pub companion and an
a neighborhood square on the east side fermented really dry with French saison excellent pairing beer. Its rich malt
of Antwerp, Belgium. The square is not yeast. Its peppery and fruity and crisp, and flavor complements savory-sweet
a tourist destination, just a neighborhood according to Coli those flavor nuances can dishes, including Indian and Malaysian
square. Its a really lovely place to go hang vary ever so slightly from batch to batch. curries, braised meats, barbecue, and
out and have a beer. That variability is what many brewers pub fare.
So is Dageraad Brewing. Its a small op- will tell you is the bread and butter of Dageraad Randonneur Saison
eration in Burnaby, British Columbia, that Belgian-style beer, which historically was ABV: 6.4%
Coli created Randonneur Saison
just recently opened a cozy new tasting made with whatever simple ingredients
in the tradition of farmhouse ales
room. After launching the business in were available locally at the time. At Dag- brewed in northern France and
April, Coli took his time to transition his eraad, Coli is re-creating traditional styles Wallonia. Peppery and hoppy, effer-
recipes from homebrew-size batches to with ingredients that are most similar to vescent and bone-dry, Randonneur
ten barrels at a time. those in Belgium. Saison refreshes after cycling through
Part of our general philosophy is Belgian beer is all about water, says the autumnal countryside.
FOOD PAIRINGS: Randonneur Saisons
taking things slowly, says Coli, referring Coli. Here we have incredibly soft water,
peppery and lemony notes make it
specifically to the house blend of Belgian which is really nice for brewing Bel- a perfect companion for seafood or
yeast hes pitching. Belgian yeast is slow. gian-style beers. From [that starting point], salads. Its palate-scrubbing efferves-
Its way lazier than American ale yeast or the water can be built into anything you cence allows it to hold its own against
British ale yeast. want it to be by adding salts. stinky cheeses and fried food.
Because Dageraad is a Belgian-style Were using European malts, Coli
brewery, one of the major focuses is yeast. says, mostly German, because local malt
Were brewing moderate-gravity beers, doesnt taste the same. Canadian pilsner
and the fermentor is still poppin at least a malt has this sweet, corny taste to it, where-
week later, Coli adds about slow fermen- as German malt has nutty taste to it. Were
tation times. We dont have a produc- paying twice as much per bag for this
tion schedule, he explains, nodding to imported malt, but it makes a difference.
the fact that yeast invariably attenuates. Finally, Dageraad is using German and
PHTOS: OPPOSITE: BYRON SMITH; RIGHT: MATT GRAVES

Production schedules ruin beers. We Czech hops because thats what they have
could probably make more money if we in Belgium, says Coli. Hops are especial-
jammed beer out faster, but I get way ly important to Belgian blonde ales, which
more satisfaction out of making some- have a fairly pronounced hops presence.
thing special. By the time these beers are imported
One of the first Belgian-style beers that from Belgium, Coli points out, theyve lost
Coli homebrewed (and now brews at Dag- a lot of hops aroma. Take an enormous
eraad) is certainly something speciala quadit tastes great by the time it gets
golden strong ale brewed with pured over here, he says. But Belgian pale ales
pears and coriander that takes at least six and blondes just dont taste right by the
weeks to ferment. He says that from his time they get over here.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 37
| BREAKOUT BREWERS: BELGIAN-STYLE NEXT WAVE |

The Belgian
Renaissance
While the North American craft-beer scenes 70s and
80s roots tended toward British and German styles,
an undeniable shift toward Belgian styles started in
the late 90s and has hit full strength over the past five
years. Here are a few American breweries helping lead
the current Belgian charge
Logsdon Farm Brewery
Hood River, Oregon
Farmhouse isnt just a style, but a lifestyle for Dave
Logsdon, founder of the eponymously-
named brewery. As one of the founders of Full Sail
Brewing (and founder of Wyeast Labs), Logsdon
has a depth of experience with craft beer matched
by few. For his latest act, hes built a brewery in the
big red barn on his familys 10-acre farm in Hood
River and focused on a lineup of beers thats purely
Belgian-style. From the GABF gold-winning Seizoen
Bretta to Cerasus, the World Beer Cup gold-winning
Flanders red, Logsdons PNW take on these tradition-
al styles is making waves and racking up accolades.
River North Brewery
Denver, Colorado
This 2 -year-old brewery, located in (and named
after) Denvers River North district, launched in
2012 with a mission to brew yeast-centric beers
with Belgian-style flair. Owners Matt and Jessica
Hess continue to carve out space in the competitive
Denver craft-beer market with consistently strong
releases including their canned River North White
witbier and Belgian IPA as well as their Quandary
quad and J. Marie Farmhouse Ale. In addition to
their year-round releases, an aggressive barrel-aging
program has delivered an impressive number of The Dageraad Blonde Ale was inspired by Belgiums variety
special releases, such as their fan-favorite Rum Barrel of strong blonde ales, ranging from semisweet to bone-dry, that
Quandary. Recently, they jumped on the beer- offer a huge range of fruit, hops, and spice flavors. Dageraad
inspired-by-cocktails trend with a quad aged in used Blonde gets its depth and flavor complexity from European
Manhattan cocktail barrels. Their success is paying
off with a recent expansion into the Kansas City hops, spices, and the brewerys house yeast. It has a note of nutty
market. I learned to love Belgian yeasts when I was pilsner malt, a whiff of noblehops, a faint note of caramelized
homebrewing, says Hess. They just produce such a sugar, andwhen the beer warmsa subtle, floral heat. The
wide array of delicious and drinkable beers. Blonde is my favorite beer, says Coli. Bright, sparkling, fruity,
Saint Somewhere Brewing Company and delicious.
Tarpon Springs, Florida The Blonde is one of Dageraads two year-round beers. The oth-
Founder and Brewmaster Bob Sylvester has earned a er is an amber made in the Belgian pale ale tradition, says Coli.
reputation for being a bit of a curmudgeon, doggedly It has a rounded malty flavor with soft hops highlights.
focusing on traditional brewing methods such as Although most of the brewerys beers are made in the Belgian
open fermentation and bottle conditioning and tradition, at the end of the day, Dageraad is still a North American
even arguing in favor of green bottles (its tradition!). craft brewery thats open to experimentation. Our most recent
But that same determination manifests itself in his
brewing, and his studious focus on Belgian styles
violation of tradition, jokes Coli, was a wet-hopped blonde ale
has produced some of the strongest farmhouse-style brewed with local Centennial hops. I thought the citrusy, fruity
ales in the southeast United States. To some, limiting components of those hops might go well with citrusy, fruity blonde
style so tightly constricts creativity, but for Sylvester, ale. Its surprising how much of a difference those hops make.
it provides a clear framework for exploration with For Coli, Dageraad Brewing is an effort to transport a small piece
beers such as Serge (a dark farmhouse ale) or Cyn- of the beer culture he found in the Dageraadplaats home to British
thiana (farmhouse ale brewed with grape must). His
recent collaboration with Cigar City Brewing, named
Columbia. I love Antwerp and the Ardennes. And I really love
Deja Vu, dives into American Wild Ale territory, with the beer. But I dont live in Belgium. I live here in Vancouver. Can
an incredible citrus hops profile that will have you we have that beer? Not just occasionally as an expensive, imported
PHOTO: BYRON SMITH

insisting they brewed with Floridas main agricultural bottle, but as a standard, locally brewed beer? Can we drink an
export (they didntthat character comes entirely authentic-tasting Belgian-style beer from the other side of the city,
from the play of hops and yeast). instead of the other side of the world? Hes determined to answer
those questions with a resounding, Yes!

38 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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BEERANDBREWING.COM | 39
| PICK SIX |

A Victorious Six
Tripel Karmeliet
(Brouwerij Bosteels, Buggenhout, Belgium)
Tripel Karmeliet is one of those beers I
discovered after becoming a professional
For Victory Brewing Cofounder Bill Covaleski, choosing a brewer, after we started brewing Golden
dream six-pack is like DJing: while he could select plenty of Monkey. Its nuanced across the spectrum
and just lush and luxurious, with notes of
great options, theres an art to putting together the perfect playlist.
orange blossom and honey. Dont pigeon-
Here are the six tracks on his current mix tape. By Jamie Bogner
hole it as a tripelits pure liquid seduc-
tion that stretches outside of time and
MY LIST HAS A LOT TO DO WITH placeand I admire it for those qualities.
memory, Covaleski says. With only six Im an evangelist [for great beer] as
selections, these cant be desert-island much as [I am] a brewer, and this beer so
beersthey have to have a strong mem- perfectly breaks misconceptions of beer as
ory component. For Covaleski, that beer thin or bitter. No matter what kind of bad
memoryof time, place, and the compa- start someone may have had with beer,
ny with which it was enjoyedis far more Tripel Karmeliet can break them of those
valuable than simply admiring a beer on bad memories.
its technical merits. Our beers arent directly inspired by
I admire Budweiser from a technical anyone elses beer, but when I sit back and
standpoint, he says. With twelve locations drink our V Twelve [Belgian-style quad],
and twelve different water sources, their I sense some of the things I love about
product consistency is technically impres- Tripel Karmeliet.
ILLUSTRATION: EMILY PARSONS

sive. But its not in my dream six-pack.


Good DJs are just editors, Covaleski Stone IPA
says. They can play anything. But choos- (Stone Brewing Co., Escondido, California)
ing what to play is the real skill. Here are Like so many people in the world of craft
my six right now, but as soon as [were brewing, I had my mind blown by Sierra Ne-
done talking], I may change my mind. vada Pale Ale back in 1984. It set up my lust

40 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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COOK WITH BEER: HEARTY FAVES


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BEERANDBREWING.COM | 41
Victory Cofounder Bill Cova-
leski at the sampling station
in their new Parkesburg,
Pennsylvania, brewery.

Its not a confounding or frustrating


beerit soothes me because its rich and
big and warmbut it plays inside my
head. There are so many things going
on, but theyre restrained and play to the
right level of subtlety. Fullers 1845 is more
orchestral than other beers.
Its funny, but I never really buy a single
bottle, because I know Ill want a second
one. I love it with Indian foodit has the
perfect depth to balance the heat of Indian
dishes. I drink one for the beer itself and
enjoy the second one with the meal.

Allagash White
(Allagash Brewing Company, Portland,
Maine)
White just nails refreshment and is a
durable food partner. I havent tasted any-
thing the beer doesnt work with. Its just
a great beer; I dont know how to go more
in depth. Its not the most characterful,
and there arent a ton of things going on,
but its just perfectly dialed in for what its
supposed to be.

Keesmann Bamberger
Herren Pils
(Brauerei Keesmann, Bamberg, Germany)
I would put my own Prima Pils in my
six-pack because I gain so much pleasure
from it, and for a brewer to say that, it says
a lot, since were generally not so motivated
toward self-promotion. The thing that
brings me back again and again is the fla-
vor-to-body ratioso much flavor reward
for hops and hops expression. That came full my eyes to the bigger world of brewing and herbal hops presence and dry bite to
circle in my first taste of Stone IPA. culture, and the location on the lake there it for a 5.3 percent ABV beer.
What I find amazing about Stone IPA is is stunning. Outside of Prima, my most memorable
that its somewhat restrained. It has this The Maibock itself was so soulful, pils is Herren Pils from Keesmann in
huge hops character, but its not just play- almost like a big dogintimidating with Bamberg. It has that light German pils
ing loud to play loud. I dont mean to be heft and character, but gentle, warm, and body that you expect and layers and layers
demeaning to the category, but something invitingwith a copper malty delicious- of herbal German hops deliciousness.
about [Stone IPA] froze time and said, ness you can fall into liter after liter (then People often say, I dont like hops, but
This is what were all heading for. not be able to walk). So very memorable, what you find is that they just dont like
Theyve balanced a lot of flavors and it showcases malt and warmth and richer American varieties of hops. Ill get them
components in a way that makes it a great flavors yet still has that spicy German to try a pils, and they often dont think its
expression of what an IPA should be. hops lift and alcoholic note on the finish hoppy. Ive been fortunate to have Herren
People dont use the word nuance with that keeps it light and edgy. Pils on a couple of occasions. The brewery
IPA, but the way theyve constructed it is is situated across the street from Mahrs
almost haunting to me. Fullers 1845 brewery and in striking distance of two
(Fuller Smith & Turner PLC, London, other breweries, so singling them out is a
Herzogliches Braustuberl
PHOTO: COURTESY OF VICTORY BREWING

England) pretty lofty statement.


Tegernsee Maibock Fullers 1845 messes with my head as a Germans are really good at sticking to
(Herzogliches Braustuberl Tegernsee, brewer, and Ive spent a lot of time hung style, but [Herren Pils] is differentiated
Tegernsee, Germany) up on what components make the flavors and not what you would expect when I
This beer takes me back to 1987 when Ive perceived. At first I ascribed the plum say, German pils. The German public
Ron [Barchet, the other Victory cofound- flavors to the yeast, but then it tails off in measures quality based on similarity to
er] and I took our first trip to Germany another direction and seems to originate style, but I find nuance to the Herron Pils
and Belgium together. That trip opened in the malt. that separates it from others.

42 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| COOKING WITH BEER |

From Herb-Marinated Goat Cheese to an apple-brussels salad topped with a


tangy Beeranch Dressing to an incredible rib-eye steak with Blue CheeseBeer Butter

Winter
and crispy potato skins to tart Lemon-Beer Hand Pies, these tangy, tart, rich dishes will
keep you warm while the weathers cold. Recipes and photos by Christopher Cina

Warme
This page: Spread tangy
Herb-Marinated Goat Cheese
on warm grilled bread.
Opposite page: Pair Grown-
Up Potato Skins with an
English-style pale or mild.

44 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


rs
caption

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 45
| COOKING WITH BEER |

Beer suggestions: Prepare the dressing


with a Vienna-style lager such as Great
Lakes Eliot Ness, Devils Backbone Vienna
Lager, or Neshaminy Creek Churchville
Lager. Pair the salad with a pale ale or
IPA that tilts toward the bitter/piney side
of the hops spectrumsuch as Russian
Rivers Blind Pig.

AppleBrussels Sprout Cast Iron Rib-Eye


Salad with Beeranch with Blue Cheese
Dressing Beer Butter

Active preparation time: 20 minutes Active preparation time: 15 minutes


Chilling time: 4 hours Cooking time: 8 minutes
Serves: 4 Serves: 12

1 Granny Smith apple, cored and thinly


Herb-Marinated 2 Tbs butter
sliced Goat Cheese One 12-oz boneless rib-eye (14-oz bone in)
1 cup red cabbage, shaved cup (2 fl oz) IPA
8 brussels sprouts, cored and leaves 1 pinch salt
separated Active preparation time: 10 minutes 1 pinch freshly ground black pepper
cup Cypress Grove Lamb Chopper (an Marinating time: 48 hours 2 oz Blue CheeseBeer Butter (see below)
aged sheeps milk cheese), shredded Serves: 24
cup Beeranch Dressing (see below) Place the butter in a large cast-iron pan
cup pecan pieces, toasted 1 Tbs fresh parlsey, chopped and place the pan over high heat. Once
1 Tbs fresh chives, minced the pan begins to smoke, gently lay the
Combine the apple, cabbage, brussels Tbs fresh rosemary, minced rib-eye in the pan and brown the bottom.
sprout leaves, and Lamb Chopper in a 1 Tbs fresh thyme, chopped Turn the steak over and cook to desired
mixing bowl. Toss with the Beeranch 1 tsp garlic, minced doneness, being careful to avoid splatter-
Dressing and divide among four plates. tsp salt ing the hot butter.
Garnish with the toasted pecans. tsp black pepper Remove from the heat just before the
cup (4 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil rib-eye reaches your desired internal
Beeranch Dressing 4 oz Haystack Mountain goat cheese log, temperature (130135F/5557C for me-
Makes: 2 cups cut into 1-ounce discs dium-rare; 160F/71C for well-done). De-
Warm grilled bread glaze the pan with the beer, then season
1 cup (8 fl oz) Vienna-style lager the steak with the salt and pepper. Place
1 cup mayonnaise Combine the parsley, chives, rosemary, the Blue CheeseBeer Butter on the steak
cup fresh dill, chopped thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper with the ol- and allow it to melt slowly while serving.
cup fresh chives, chopped ive oil and mix well. Place the goat cheese
cup fresh Italian parsley, chopped discs into two 4-ounce resealable jars. Blue CheeseBeer Butter
cup fresh oregano, chopped Pour the herb oil over the cheese to cover. Makes: 1 pound
2 Tbs garlic, minced Seal the jar tightly and chill for 48 hours.
1 Tbs kosher salt Remove from the refrigerator and allow to lb butter (2 sticks), room temperature
1 tsp restaurant-grind (a semi-coarse warm to room temperature before spread- lb Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese
grind) black pepper ing on the warm grilled bread. crumbles
1 cup (8 fl oz) buttermilk cup (2 fl oz) IPA
1 lb sour cream Beer suggestions: Pair with a bright pil- 1 tsp kosher salt
sner, such as Victorys Prima Pils, August 2 Tbs parsley, chopped
Combine the lager and mayonnaise and Schells Pilsner, or Sixpoints The Crisp.
mix well. Add the dill, chives, parsley, Or try with a klsch, such as Ballast Combine all the ingredients in a tabletop
oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper and mix Points Pale Ale. mixer or food processor and blend togeth-
well. Add the buttermilk and sour cream er. Remove and chill until the butter sets.
and mix well. Refrigerate for 4 hours
before serving.

46 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEERANDBREWING.COM | 47
| COOKING WITH BEER |

Beer suggestions: A citrus-forward IPA, Broil under high heat until the cheese has cup (6 fl oz) India pale lager
such as Victorys Dirt Wolf, Lagunitas melted and the potato begins to brown. cup sugar
Sucks, or Schlaflys Tasmanian IPA, works Remove from the oven and finish with a tsp salt
well against the funky blue cheese. Pair dollop of crme fraiche and a sprinkle of 1 Tbs butter
with a bold black IPA such as Firestone chives on each potato. Sprinkle with the cup (2 fl oz) lemon juice
Walkers Wookey Jack or Odell Brewings remaining salt and freshly cracked black 1 tsp lemon zest
Mountain Standard. pepper. Pastry Dough (see below)
To turn this dish into a meal, combine Oil, for frying
blanched broccoli with the reserved potato Powdered sugar (optional)
flesh and fill the potato skins before you
broil them. In a medium saucepan, combine the egg
yolks, cornstarch, lager, sugar, and salt. Cook
Crme Fraiche over medium heat, stirring constantly just
Makes: 2 cups until the mixture begins to thicken. Remove
from heat and whisk in the butter, lemon
2 cup (16 fl oz) heavy cream juice, and zest. Pour into a bowl and chill.
2 Tbs buttermilk Roll the pastry dough out to -inch
thickness and cut into eight 8-inch
Combine the cream and buttermilk in a squares. Place 3 tablespoons of the lemon
nonreactive container. Cover with a clean filling in the center of the dough. Fold the
towel and place in a warm area. Let sit for dough over the filling to form a rectangle
1214 hours. Refrigerate. and press the edges closed with a fork.
Grown-Up Potato Skins Heat the oil in a deep fryer or deep pot
Beer suggestions: Nothing accompanies to 365F (185C). Fry the hand pies until
upscale pub food like a great English-style golden brown, 34 minutes. Remove from
pale or mild. Were particularly fond of the oil, drain, and serve warm, sprinkled
Active preparation time: 90 minutes the bold and assertive flavor of Summit with powdered sugar if desired.
Cooking time: 70 minutes Brewings Union Series 3X Mild.
Serves: 34 Pastry Dough

3 Russet potatoes, scrubbed Makes enough dough for 68 hand pies


2 fl oz olive oil
2 tsp kosher salt, divided 3 cup all-purpose flour
6 oz pancetta, cooked crispy and chopped 3 Tbs sugar
8 oz Comt cheese, shredded tsp salt
cup chives, sliced cup vegetable shortening
cup crme fraiche (see below) 1 egg, beaten
Freshly cracked black pepper 1 cup (8 fl oz) buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 400F (204C). Rub Combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Work
the potatoes with the olive oil and 1 tsp in the shortening with a pastry blade or in
of the salt. Place in the oven and bake for a tabletop mixer. Avoid using your hands
70 minutes or until potatoes are tender so the shortening doesnt warm up. When
on the inside and skin begins to crisp. Lemon-Beer Hand Pies the dough is crumbly, mix in the egg and
Remove the potatoes from the oven and buttermilk until the mixture just comes
allow them to cool until you can handle together. Cover and chill for 12 hours.
them.
Halve the potatoes and, using a spoon, Active preparation time: 40 minutes Beer suggestions: Jacks Abby Hoponius
scoop out the potato flesh being careful Cooking time: 1015 minutes Union remains one of our favorite IPLs,
to leave inch to inch of potato on Serves: 8 along with Samuel Adams Double Agent
the bottom. Reserve the potato flesh for IPL, Ballast Points Fathom, and Founders
another use. Place the potato skins in a 2 egg yolks Dissenter IPL.
pan and top with the pancetta and Comt. 3 Tbs cornstarch

Nothing accompanies upscale pub food like a great English-style pale


or mild. The citrus flavors in the Lemon-Beer Hand Pie match perfectly
with a modern hoppy India Pale Lager.

48 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| IN THE CELLAR |

Past Its
Prime?
Vintage Beer Warning Signs
What are some of the ways a beer can go wrong? What signs
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES

signal the point of no return? Here are seven points to consider


when youre evaluating a vintage beer. By Patrick Dawson

50 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Another in a growing list of why
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BEERANDBREWING.COM | 51
| IN THE CELLAR |

CHANCES ARE IF YOURE READING Brett-Derived Medicinal


this magazine, you have a beer cellar. Flavors
Aging beer is all the rage right now as Many American breweries are just now
people are not only exposed to many more jumping on the Brettanomyces bandwag-
styles, but also as they learn exactly what on. Brett has wonderful advantages for
their palates prefer. But, as eager cellarers cellaring: it is a fantastic oxygen scavenger
start to wade in, its all too easy to fall (lowering oxidative effects) and creates
into various traps. And one of the most a bevy of unique acids that over time
common is older is better. Its important can lead to the formation of the tropi-
to remember that eventually, all cellarable cal fruit-like esters. However, Brett also
beers will succumb to the tide of time. has the ability to synthesize traditional
Okay, an exception might be made for vin- Belgian yeast phenols (clove, pepper) into
tage greats such as Thomas Hardys and 4-ethyphenol (4-EP), a unique phenol
Cantillon, which have yet to hit the wall, responsible for both funky (horse sweat,
but theres nothing worse than drinking a barnyard) and plasticy/medicinal flavors.
beer thats sat patiently for years, only to This synthesis can occur even in the
discover that its a shell of its former self. Bretty-classic Orval, which begins to exhib-
Its easy enough to recognize a beer it these characteristics after about three
thats well past its prime with that first years. Once formed, these compounds are
sip. Even non-beer drinkers can tell old relatively stable so, if a young Brett beer
when they taste it. However, having the acquires the dreaded medicinal flavor, its
ability to detect the indicative aged aspects time to drink up or move on.
before a beer heads downhill can pay divi-
dends by enabling you to drink whatever Stale Oxidation Flavor
stock you might have left in time and Stale oxidation flavor is the biggie to look
helping you learn where a beers peak is out for in your aging beer. While many of
for the next time. Consider the following the great flavors (e.g., sherry, amaretto,
warning signs. dried fruits) found in vintage beer are due
to oxidation, its also responsible for the
Thinning Body dreaded stale flavor, often described as
One of the worst things that can happen cardboard. And while you may not regu-
to an aging beer is the thinning of its larly eat cardboard, its easy to detect (just
body. Over time, oxidation will reduce think stale bread). Most oxidative flavors
a beers sugars. As these sugars are oxi- are age-stable, so once they appear, theyre
dized, the by-products adhere to the malt going to stick around. And sadly, once
proteins, eventually causing them to fall theyve developed to a substantial degree,
out of suspension, resulting in thinning. theres no turning back.
Many cellar-worthy styles (e.g., barley-
wines, imperial stouts) rely on a malty Flatness
body to let their maturing flavors shine, As a beer rests in the cellar, the bottle
and once this base is gone, the beer can closurebe it cap, cork, or swing top
become dull and muted. will very slowly leak minute amounts

Having the ability to detect the indicative aged


aspects before a beer heads downhill can pay
dividends by enabling you to drink whatever
PHOTO: MATT GRAVES

stock you might have left in time and helping you


learn where a beers peak is for the next time.
52 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
Introducing
the first ever programmable
fermentation thermostat

Automate gradual temperature


shifts to protect yeast
Create, Store and Share Programs
Removable microSD Card
Single and Dual Stage Models Available

www.ohmbrewautomations.com

BELGIAN INSPIRED BEERS SINCE 1995


ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY
PORTLAND MAINE
| IN THE CELLAR |

The quintessential flavors in a beer are those of


malt and hops. A young beer should have these
in spades, but given enough time they will fade,
and once they are gone the resulting beer can
become a boring one-trick pony.

Bottle conditioning, evidenced of carbonation. Given enough time, a begins to fade. Many beers depend on
by yeast remains in the bottle beer will eventually become flat. Much these flavors to make them what they are,
as seen above, will prolong the
cellar life of a beer. However,
of this comes down to the closure type and once they are gone the resulting beer
over time, the cell walls of that (caps are generally the most secure, with becomes a boring one-trick pony. The
yeast will break down through the corks close behind, and swing tops being hoppiness of American barleywines is a
process of autolysis, creating the a distant third), but it also depends on classic example, as many of them are es-
potential for off flavors that range
from meaty to soy sauce to a brewerys bottling practices. A cellars sentially Double IPAs (DIPAs) with some
roasted nuts. humidity can also speed this process if caramel malt flavor. As the hoppiness
its low enough to dry out corks (below starts to fade in these beers, its time to
about 55 percent). Carbonation is a critical consider whether they have what it takes
component to all beers, and once gone or to make it much further.
significantly reduced, its absence can ruin
an otherwise great beer. Acetaldehyde Formation
Essentially, acetaldehyde is present in
Yeast Autolysis all beer, although usually at low enough
Any beer that has been bottle-conditioned levels not to be detectable. In higher
or not filtered prior to bottling will end amounts, a green apple flavor will emerge.
up with some yeast in the bottle. Over Typically found in beers served too young
time, a combination of alcohol, acidity, (hence the name green beer), acetalde-
and temperature breaks down the yeasts hyde is created during primary fermen-
cell walls, a process called autolysis. tation before being converted to alcohol
Depending on conditions, this can take during the conditioning phase. However,
anywhere from one to twenty years, but in an aging beer, the right combination
the resulting yeast guts that spill into the of ingredients can sometimes lead to
beer create a variety of meaty flavors. In alcohol oxidizing back into acetaldehyde, a
dark-roasted beers, the flavor is some- generally unpleasant circumstance. Even
thing akin to blood, while amber-colored worse, in a wild beer with a variety of
barleywine-style ales suggest soy sauce. micro biota, this acetaldehyde can then be
Conversely, light-colored beers such as reduced into acetic acid (vinegar). Watch
saisons and lambics take on hints of out for dem green apples.
roasted nuts. In tiny doses, these facets Again, its important to remember that
can add complexity to a vintage beer, but cellared beers will agegracefully for
be on alert if they begin to appear so you a while, perhaps, but less gracefully as
dont end up with an expensive bottle of time goes by. As Adam Avery suggests in
teriyaki sauce. 8 Tips for Successful Cellaring (CB&B,
Issue 1), if you think a beer is good for
Fading Beery Flavors cellaring, put away a case (or at least sev-
The quintessential flavors in a beer are eral bottles). Every once in a while, drink
those of malt and hops. A young beer a bottle. If you detect any of the warning
should have these in spades, but the un- signs Ive mentioned, its time to decide
avoidable consequences of an aging beer whether to drink up your stock or let it go
are when the maltiness slowly tightens a little longer.
and hoppiness (bitterness, aroma, taste)

54 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Say NO to Water Air Lock

YES to Fermenting/Ventilating Bungs


VIN TABLE Silicone Fermenting Bungs
Carboys Demijohns Wooden / SS Barrels / Tanks /Kegs

Contact local Beer Making Supply Store or send $5.50 ck for


sample #7 ventilating no water reqd carboy bung to:
VinTable LLC P.O.Box 405 Ambler, PA 19002-0405
Phone 215-628-4668 FAX 215-542-9903

www.vintable.com
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 55
How Women
Brewsters
Saved the
World One
Millennium
at a Time
In the first of a two-part series, Tara Nurin (official historian of the Pink
Boots Society) explores the hidden-in-plain-sight history of women and
has likely shaped fundamental aspects of
human existence for 200,000 years. Yet
the producers ignore the fact that, until
fairly recently as history goes, women were
the driving force behind much of the
worlds beer production.

Of Goddesses and High


beer from prehistoric times up through Prohibition. Priestesses
Ninkasi, you are the one who pours out
the filtered beer of the collector vat; it is [like]
IN THE UBER-DRAMATIC INTRO- the onrush of the Tigris and Euphrates.
DUCTION to the Discovery Channels Hymn to Ninkasi
trail-blazing 2011 documentary How Beer
Saved the World, lightning flashes, fires In 2004, archeologists placed the discovery
rage, wort bubbles, and beer historian of the worlds first fermented beverage (a
Gregg Smith tells the camera, Beer has mixture of fruit, honey, and rice) in Jiahu,
changed the course of human history. Not China, between 7000 and 5700 BCE.
once, not twice, but over and over again. The finding overturned the convention-
Calling it the greatest invention of all, al wisdom that humans had concocted
ILLUSTRATIONS: EMILY PARSONS

the film producers credit beer for helping their first grain-based drink in ancient
to originate math, commerce, modern Mesopotamia, located in modern-day
medicine, refrigeration, automation, and Iran and Iraq. Historians now qualify the
even the first system of non-pictorial Mesopotamian concoction as the worlds
writing. As they explain, our literal depen- first barley beer and remain committed to
dence on beer and earlier forms of alcohol their original belief that civilization began

56 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| HOW WOMEN BREWERS SAVED THE WORLD |

Archeologists who study fermentation agree


on one thing: the vast majority of ancient
brewers were women. While men were out
hunting, women were out gathering the
ingredients they needed to make other foods
and drink to go with the wooly mammoth or
mastodon, says Dr. Patrick McGovern.

were out gathering the ingredients they written beer recipe.


needed to make other foods and drink to Two thousand years before Jesus and
go with the wooly mammoth or mast- around the same time that invaders
odon, says Dr. Patrick McGovern, the vanquished Sumer, the Mesopotamian
University of Pennsylvania biomolecular city of Babylon ascended by building on
A fragment of the Epic archeologist who determined that the its former neighbors accomplishments.
of Gilgamesh, one of the Mesopotamian drinking vessels contained Like their predecessors, Babylonians
earliest descriptions of the
brewing of beer. Courtesy of
the earliest known barley beer. held women in high esteem. Babylonian
the British Museum. Once our nomadic ancestors realized women enjoyed the right to divorce and
they could revolutionize their lives by plant- own business and property, and some
in this so-called fertile crescent between ing barley, wheat, and other grains, they historians say they may have participated
the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers. permanently came in off the road. But they in some of the worlds earliest commerce
They date the evidence found in the didnt necessarily change the divisions of as they sold their beer with new forms of
Mesopotamian state of Sumer to no ear- labor. Women [were] the ones who [made] bookkeeping and writing. Women were
lier than 3500 BCE but are confident that the household fermented beverages, Mc- encouraged to work as tavern keepers and
the worlds first settlers began growing Govern says of those early societies. professional bakers/brewers.
barley for beer and/or bread as early as Sumerian women brewed low-alcohol Archeologists hold that Babylonians or
10,000 BCE. Many suspect the hunt- beer for religious ceremonies and as Sumerians introduced brewing to their
er-gatherers who preceded Sumerians part of the daily food ration. Sumerian neighbors, the Egyptians. Egyptians wor-
on the evolutionary timeline also brewed brewers enjoyed tremendous respect, in shipped a goddess of beer named Tenenit
beer, accidentally creating the intoxicant in part because they probably also served as and told stories about the goddess Ha-
containers filled with airborne yeast and priestesses of the revered beer goddess, thor/Sekhmet who saved humanity from
rain-soaked wild grains. Ninkasi. Sumerians believed Ninkasi over- destruction after a binge. Hieroglyphics
Though they argue over the ancient saw the brewing process and worked as depict women brewing and drinking beer
origins, archeologists who study fermen- head brewer to the gods, whod gifted beer through straws, which historians say the
tation do agree on one thing: the vast to humans to preserve peace and promote Babylonian brewers probably invented to
majority of ancient brewers were women. well-being. They showed their reverence pierce thick layers of scum that floated
While men were out hunting, women in the Hymn to Ninkasi, historys oldest atop their product.

A Brief History of Women Brewsters


BEFORE THE COMMON ERA

Humans walked Agrarian society Fruit/honey beer Sumerians, Babylonian women Egyptians develop Germanic women
out of Africa, likely begins in fermented in believed to invent straws to sophisticated beer brew beer in forest
probably drinking Mesopotamia in Jiahu, China. invent word- drink beer. trade. clearings.
fermented pursuit of beer, based writing,
beverages the bread, or both. write Hymn to
whole way. Ninkasi and Epic
of Gilgamesh;
first barley beer
brewed in Sumer COURTESY OF THE ORIENTAL
INSTITUTE OF THE UNIVERSITY OF
(modern-day Iran). CHICAGO. PHOTO: ANNA RESSMAN.

58 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


At first, Egyptian brewing likely fell to children low-alcohol, nutrient-rich home- and forming international trade guilds.
the women of the house. But records sug- brew that proved more sanitary than water. Law and custom kept women out of both.
gest that as production breweries spread For thousands of years women brewed Meanwhile, as the Dark Ages gave
across Egypt, men replaced women as an unhopped liquid called ale, whose way to the Renaissance and the Age of
brewers, and those women were pushed quick spoilage rate suited decentralized Exploration, brewsters werent just losing
into secondary roles. This corporatization domestic production. Some entrepre- relevance. At a time when, by some
of breweries may have carried Egypt and neurial female brewsters (the feminine estimations, up to 200,000 women were
its most iconic female ruler toward their equivalent of the masculine brewer) prosecuted as witches, they were losing
demise. As the online Ancient History produced more than their families needed their dignity and their lives.
Encyclopedia tells us, Cleopatra, Egypts and sold the surplus for a pittance. But Depictions of brewsters in art, literature,
last Pharaoh of consequence, lost popu- married women held no legal status, and pop culture swung negative. And
larity toward the end of her reign more for and unmarried women held little capital. although no one can prove a connection,
implementing a tax on beer (the first ever) Their predicament left them financially some historians see clear similarities be-
than for her wars with Rome, which the and politically vulnerable and unable to tween brewsters and illustrations selected
beer tax went to help pay for. access the economic developments and for anti-witch propaganda. Images of
technological advancements that gradually frothing cauldrons, broomsticks (to hang
Brewsters, Witches, and the transformed Europe from an agrarian outside the door to indicate the availabil-
Beginnings of Capitalism society to a commercial one. ity of ale), cats (to chase away mice), and
In Baltic and Slavic mythology, a goddess German nunneries provided a rare shel- pointy hats (to be seen above the crowd in
named Raugutiene provides heavenly ter for single women to blossom as brew- the marketplace) endure today.
protection over beer. Finnish legend sters and botanists, with St. Hildegard of In a culture where beer defines part of
recounts that a woman named Kalevatar Bingen distinguishing herself as the first the national character, the question of who
brought beer to earth by mixing honey person to publicly recommend hops as a controls the brew is paramount, observes
with bear saliva. And while Norse folklore healing, bittering, and preserving agent a writer for the German Beer Institute.
indirectly credits a man for beer, the late some 500 years before mainstream society He who has his hand on the levers of
beer anthropologist Alan Eames wrote in took heed. Outside monastic walls, a power, also has his thumb in the peoples
1993 that real Norsemen (a.k.a. Vikings) brewsters right to self-determination lay beer mug. By 1700, European women had
allowed only women to brew the aul at the mercy of feudal lords, the Church, all but stopped brewing.
that fueled their conquests. In an article or the emerging merchant classwhich-
published in Yankee Brew News, Eames ever element or elements held sway in her Seeking a New Life in
noted, Viking women drank ale, flagon particular time in her particular region. America
for flagon, along with the men. The mainstream discovery of hops Unusual, regional varieties of beer, devel-
Early Northern Europeans worshipped in sixteenth-century Germany gave the oped by women through centuries of trial
their beer goddesses as ancient Middle ruling classes more leverage to outlaw and error became first endangered and then
Easterners did, and before the second dangerous beer additives that brewsters extinct.Alan Eames, Yankee Brew News
millennium CE, most European women had used for centuries. Granted, purity
drank and brewed beer. From migratory laws such as Reinheitsgebot undoubtedly Maybe youve heard the story about the
Germanic women who brewed in forest kept at least a few drinkers from dying. Pilgrims landing at Plymouth Rock be-
clearings to avoid Holy Roman invaders to But they also put higher-cost resources cause theyd run out of beer and needed to
the English alewives who maintained their such as hops out of brewsters reach. With build a brewhouse immediately. Well, its
traditions until the Industrial Revolution, hops also came longer-lasting beer. Men bogus. Its true that the trans-Atlantic voy-
European women fed their husbands and reacted by building production breweries agers did bring beer rations across the sea

COMMON ERA

German abbess Witch trials seize Germans impose English farmers American married First Central Prohibition ends
Hildegard of Europe. Reinheitsgebot plant first hops women serve Bank founded in legal beer brewing
Bingen recom- beer purity law. crop. small beer and England; Indus- in the United
mends hops as a cider to their trial Revolution States; women
preservative as families for good begins; era of and men brew
well as for healing. health. brewsters ends. beer illegally at
home.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 59
| HOW WOMEN BREWERS SAVED THE WORLD |

They kept doing what theyd been doing,


Smith says.
Its hardly necessary to remind CB&B
readers that Prohibition proved devastat-
ing to quality beer and the beer business
by producing sixty subsequent years of
consolidated, industrial-scale brewing.
The tightly defined gender roles of the
50s and Mad Men-era marketers created
an image of beer as a drink for men,
made by commercial breweries where
women were valued only as promotional
vehicles. But what may prove surprising is
that even after Prohibition, women never
ceased brewing. Not entirely, anyway.
In northern Vermont they were con-
stantly homebrewing in the late 60s and
early 70sboth men and women, Smith
says. It had never stopped. The same
can be said for primitive parts of South
America, Africa, and the Far East, where
women still brew for their communities
using the techniques of their maternal
ancestors. In some Peruvian, Japanese,
and Taiwanese tribes, twenty-first century
brewsters chew rice to release fermentable
starches. Women in Burkina Faso (West
Africa) mash and ferment sorghum beer
in facilities that resemble those in place
5,500 years ago, and groups of Chinese
and that they didnt trust the water supply refrigeration, cheaper packaging, and and Cambodian women continue to slurp
in their adopted homeland because they rail delivery to an at-once expanding and beer through straws. And as contem-
knew the water back home to be unsafe. consolidating full-scale brewing industry. porary Western women lace up their
But beer rations aboard the ship held up No law kept women out of these facto- pink boots and chew their way back into
just fine during the journey, and the first ries, but the mores of the time prevent- brewing, McGovern predicts that a worlds
thing the settlers built were huts to shelter ed them from entering. However, the worth of discovery lies ahead.
against the cold. Germans more relaxed drinking culture Says the biomolecular archeologist who
However, the truth is that once the men did introduce family-friendly bier gardens officially concluded that the samples from
built permanent housing, they each built to America, and proper women in East Jiahu and Godin Tepe had safeguarded
their wives a kitchen brewery. In colonial Coast and Midwest population centers humanitys oldest links to beer: Women
America, as they had in Europe, married were coaxed outside to drink publicly for are so often tied, through art and other
women homebrewed small beer, which the first time. This cavalier approach ways, to these (ancient) fermented bev-
they supplemented with cider, to sustain to drinking incensed the leaders of the erages. As we acquire more information,
their families. Temperance movement. I believe well see that women are more
As the colonies urbanized, city men con- Though low-alcohol lager offered a involved than we thought.
ducted their business and pleasure in tav- relative respite from the destructive
erns provisioned by regional commercial impulses of rum, Prohibition extended In part two of How Brewsters Saved The
breweries. But in rural areas, homebrew- breweries no reprieve. Beer brewing World, well take this history of womens
ing remained the dominant source for (illegal) crept back inside the home, where contributions to brewing up to present times,
beer for more than a century, and it wasnt women, such as Smiths coal-country spotlighting the women who have helped the
Thomas Jefferson who merited acclaim grandmother, kept the tradition going. modern craft-brewing revolution take root.
as a brewer, as folklore would have us
believe. Instead, his wife, Martha, enlisted
slaves at Monticello to brew her regionally
famous recipes for wheat beer.
However, as in the past, When money
Prohibition proved devastating to quality
got involved, men increasingly started beer by producing sixty subsequent years of
brewing, says Gregg Smith, who wrote
the book, Beer in America, The Early Years:
consolidated, industrial-scale brewing. The
15871840. As the industry developed, it tightly defined gender roles of the 50s and
went that way even more.
Louis Pasteurs 1857 discovery of yeast
Mad Men-era marketers created an image of
coincided with a massive wave of German beer as a drink for men, made by commercial
immigration, which brought lagers, breweries. But women never ceased brewing.
60 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
BEERANDBREWING.COM | 61
| BREWING TECHNIQUE |
Opposite, clockwise
from top left Copper
display piece, part of the old
brewhouse; thousands of
parti-gyles occurred in this
mash tun, now a display
piece; Fullers Brewery, a
longtime cornerstone in
Chiswick, circa 1978; an old
Steeles Masher (grist hydra-
tor) in the old brewhouse.

Practical
Parti-Gyle
Brewing
With its reputation for complexity (and excessive amounts of math), parti-
gyle brewing (brewing multiple worts from a single mash) has remained
a technique more talked about than actually practiced. But this staple of
the best-known parti-gyled beers today.
We went all the way to Chiswick, West
London, to ask him about it and snap
historical brewing is still vital for brewers such as Londons Fullers Brew- pictures of him in one of those fetching
ery, so homebrewer and writer Joe Stange paid them a visit to learn how safety vests. As he says, [Parti-gyling] is
homebrewers can add it to their arsenal. Or at least lie and say they did. the most efficient way to get the most out
of your mash tun. He ought to know; he
has been doing it since 1981.
YOU SHOULD KNOW UP FRONT that cious. Why add extra boiling and chilling, Parti-gyling is an old method, used for
you have the choice to not parti-gyle but say not to mention extra pots and fermentors? centuries, to get more beer(s) out of the
that you did. You would be a liar, of course, For brewers of a certain era, however, par- same grains. The usual but not-quite-right
but you would still get to enjoy one of the ti-gyling was the sensible thing to do. It had way to describe it is that you make one
benefits of parti-gyling as a homebrewer clear advantages. And for commercial brew- beer out of the stronger first runnings, an-
that is, getting to say that you did itwith- ers with the right setup, it still has those other beer out of weaker second runnings,
out actually adding extra boils to your brew advantages today. For todays homebrewers, and possibly even a third or more beers
day or doing all the math. it is just one more tool in the toolbox, but from additional runnings.
Now that you have been advised, we will those advantages still come into play (and Technically, that counts. Separate run-
assume that you are an honest person and well get to the advantages shortly). nings is legitimate parti-gyling, Keeling
not a liar. Good for you! Lets continue. While the technique is not especially says. But thats the crude way, and it
complicated, much of what has been writ- ignores roughly 230 years of better practice.
In short: Parti-gyling means getting multiple ten about parti-gyle has either been too Keeping those worts separate means that
beers out of the same mash. The brewer boils simpleleading to common misconcep- you miss two of the great advantages of this
successive runnings separately, and then, tionsor more technical, glazing the eyes technique: blending worts to hit target gravi-
ideally, blends them to different strengths. with gravity figures and ratios. Here we ties, meanwhile making more types of beer.
PHOTOS: JOE STANGE

aim for the middle way: clear but accurate. To illustrate how it works, Keeling de-
For the average homebrewer, this appears Also, we will get valuable guidance from scribes an approximation of a typical run
to be slightly insane. One mash/one boil John Keeling, head brewer at Londons at Fullers. He brews two worts from the
works well enough, and our time is pre- Fullers Brewery, producer of arguably mashthe first runnings hit about 1.080

62 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEERANDBREWING.COM | 63
| BREWING TECHNIQUE |

Having worts of
strengths that are
both high and low lets
[Fullers] blend them
and nail those target
gravities every time.

gravity, while the second runnings come


in at about 1.020. At least three beers
come out of those two worts: Extra Special
Bitter (ESB), London Pride, and Chiswick
Bitter, going from strongest to weakest.
Each beer is a blend of both worts. (Some-
times the same mash also produces Full-
ers stronger ales, such as Golden Pride or
Vintage Ale. Even those beers get a small
portion of the weaker wort.)
The ESB typically starts between 1.050
and 1.060, depending on whether it is
for cask or bottled for export. London
Prideby far Fullers most popular brand,
representing three of every beer sold

More About starts near 1.040. The beautifully subtle


Chiswick Bitter, mainly meant for cask at

Fullers Brewery about 3.5 percent ABV, starts with a grav-


ity near 1.035. Basically, having worts of
strengths that are both high and low lets
Fullers Brewery is not the only British brewery that parti-gyles, only
the best known. That might be because Fullers does a better job Keeling blend them and nail those target
than most of welcoming visitors and telling its story. gravities every time.
Walking through the posh district of Chiswickwith its trendy Why do it like this? For consistent
coffee shops and $8 million homesone turns a corner near the products and for efficiency in the brew-
river and finds a strategically preserved piece of the nineteenth house. Consistency is really important,
century. With its red-brick buildings and respectable smokestack,
Keeling says. I want [the beer] to have
the Griffin Brewery of Fuller, Smith and Turner has been a corner-
stone of this community for at least 170 years. In fact, brewing has personality and character in there, so it
been going on at the same location since the 1500s. does tell me something different from
Top Fullers Mawson One symbol of its pedigree is a famous wisteria plant that clings time to time. We have standards and
Arms pub dates back to its offices. This is said to be the oldest wisteria in Britain; it began
to 1715. Above
values here about how to make beer. The
as one of two clippings that arrived from China in 1816. The other observations and what they do, thats
The wall of wisteria is
went to the Royal Botanical Gardens but later died.
said to be the oldest in what makes the difference.
Britain, dating back to Fullers is aware of its status as an attraction, offering frequent
tours and a well-stocked brewery shop. Tours start next door at the Later I ask Keeling to clarify that idea
two clippings that arrived
from China in 1816. Mawson Arms pub, which itself dates to 1715. the balancing of consistency and person-
ality. The first thing I want a drinker
to do is recognize the beer. Then the

64 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Make It
No-Math Parti-Gyle
Old Ale, IPA, and ESB
Right Casks on display ALL-GRAIN
in the old Fullers brewhouse.
Below Fullers Head From simplest recipe to myriad outcomes, flexible parti-gyle style.
Brewer, John Keeling, with
humming grain mills in
action on the floor above the TOTAL BATCH SIZE
current mash tuns. 10 gallons/37.8 liters (two worts of 5 gallons/18.9 liters each)

MALT/GRAIN BILL
24 lb (10.9 kg) Maris Otter malt

HOPS SCHEDULE
3.5 oz (99 g) East Kent Goldings (5% AA) at 45 minutes on the first boil
1.3 oz (37 g) East Kent Goldings (5% AA) at 45 minutes on the second boil

DIRECTIONS
Mash at 152F (67C) for 60 minutes. Draw 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters) of first runnings
and start your first boil. Boil for 90 minutes. Meanwhile, sparge to draw an addi-
tional 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters) for the second wort. Optionally, continue to sparge
until the runnings drop to 1.005 gravityto get more, lighter second runnings or
additional third runnings that can be used for blending.
Boil the second wort (for 90 minutes) as soon as feasible. This is where the extra
brewing equipment comes in handy. Many of us must boil and chill the first wort,
beers character reveals itself through the then set it aside until were ready to blend.
years of drinking, he says. Consistency
comes from the [brewery] and its use, but First wort after 90-minute boil
in brewing there are lots of individual Estimated OG: 1.090
decisions to be made. For example, how Estimated IBUs: 46
long should the brewer recirculate wort
before starting runoff? When should the Second wort after 90-minute boil
brewer stop the runoff? Based on gravity Estimated OG: 1.045
and other observations, should the mash Estimated IBUs: 25
temperature be tweaked? Should the mill
setting be adjusted? After chilling, blend the two worts to make at least three different beersand with
And about that efficiency? Keeling says many more potential variations.
the second wort is really allowed to run For the strongest beer, blend 3 gallons (11.3 liters) of the first wort and 1 gallon
until the extract gets as low as 1.005. (3.8 liters) of the second to get 4 gallons (15.1 liters) of OG 1.079 wort at an estimat-
[We] get everything [we] can out of the ed 41 IBUs. This becomes your old ale or barleywine.
mash tun. For the second beer, blend 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of each wort to get 2 gallons (7.6
After blending, the beers diverge further liters) of OG 1.067 wort at an estimated 35 IBUs. This becomes your strong ale or
during maturation. The ESB spends two IPA.
to three weeks maturing, with hops in the For the third beer, blend the remaining 4 gallons (15.1 liters) to get a wort of OG
tank. The London Pride is matured for a 1.056 at an estimated 30 IBUs. Even as the weakest of the three, its still strong
week but not dry hopped. The Chiswick enough to be a traditional ESB.
gets a week and is dry hopped.
And there, in that variation, lies the other VARIATIONS
major benefit of parti-gyling: the flexibility Traditionalists can go with a favored British yeast strain and de-
to make many different beers from the cide whether they want to dry hop any or all of these beers
same mash. For homebrewers unbound to in primary, secondary, or keg (or cask, even better).
tradition or branding, the possibilities are But any combination of yeasts and fermentation can
practically infinite. Hop the worts differ- be used, with or without extra hops, to create a wider
ently. Boil one of them longer. Give them variety of beers. Belgian yeast, lager yeast, Brettano-
different yeasts. Ferment them at different mycesthere is room to play. The simplicity of this
temperatures and for different lengths of single-malt, single-hops recipemeant as a starting
time. The only thing not easily changed, pointalso makes it easy to go even further by
of course, is the grain bill, although it is subbing in different grain bills or hops varieties.
possible to cap later runnings with extra
malt or to add sugar, thus allowing changes
to color, flavor, and strength.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 65
| BREWING TECHNIQUE |

Sorry, Did
We Say There
Would Be
No Math?
This is for extra credit then.
Parti-gyling is less intimidating
if you are not fussy about target
gravity, but I know some of you want
to predict everything on paper and
then nail it on brew day. You have my
admiration, because I am the type
to predict everything on paper then
completely miss it on brew day, taking
notes to record it with the hilarious
notion of repeating it in the future.
Well go with Keelings example
of two worts of 1.080 and 1.020,
respectively. With those worts youd
like to make three beers of varying
strengthslets say an IPA at 1.070,
a mid-range pale ale at 1.050, and a
saison of 1.040.
How do you make that happen?
This is where the math comes in.
The simplest way to do the math is
to use the gravity points
80 and 20in per gallon terms. Lets
assume you draw 5 gallons of each
wort, so your total points are 400
and 100 respectively (80 5 = 400;
20 5 = 100).
Are you with me so far? To get 2
gallons of 1.070 wort (for the IPA),
we want 70 points per gallon or
140 points. The way to get there is
to blend 1 gallons of the stronger
wort with gallon of the weaker one.
Okay, Ill show my work:

1 80 = 133 and 20 = 6
133 + 6 = 140
140 2 = 70

You get the idea. The next one is


easy. When you take 2 gallons from Top Keeling pages Keeling refers to parti-gyling as a particularly Victorian way
each wort you get a neat 200 points, through Fullers historic of making beer. What does that mean exactly? In this context, it
divided by 4 gallons to make a tidy brewing logs. Above
1.050. Theres your pale ale. Freshly filled Fullers casks
means practical and industrial. The Victorians inherited early
That leaves 4 gallons1 gallons of roll through the production industrial techniquesthen they improved them. The cost of
strong stuff to blend with 2 gallons line. malt was high relative to wages. Meanwhile pubs and drinkers
of lighter stuff. You end up with 4 were apparently accustomed to a wide range of beers to suit pref-
gallons worth 160 points, and theres erence or occasion. Parti-gyle was not a trick in that environment;
your 1.040 wort for your saison.
it was common practice that had improved over time.
Thats an illustration. Its not
necessary to nail your 1.080 and Modern homebrewers, meanwhile, typically dont mind spend-
1.020 gravities in the first place, as ing extra on maltwe know our hobby costs money; we are not
long youre ready to do some math in it for profit. Free time for additional boiling and chilling, on
with what you have. Also be aware the other hand, can be hard to come by. And for those of us using
that these are post-boil gravities, as gas burners, propane isnt cheap either.
the boil will concentrate the strength
But if youre interested in historical beer and brewing tech-
somewhat.
There are other ways to be flexible: niques, are motivated to produce greater variety, have extra free
For example, hit your targets on two time and/or additional vessels (which can help trim the extra
of your beers but take whatever time needed), have a fetishistic love of arithmetic, and/or are
you get on the third; or, hit all three usually sober toward the end of the brew day, parti-gyling may be
of your targets without using all of just the technique for you.
your wort, saving the rest for a yeast
For my part, I have parti-gyled a couple of times (really!). The
starter or some other use.
beers turned out nicely, thanks, but if Im honest with myself
and I am nothing if not honest, sirs and madamsI did it mostly
just so I could say that I had.

66 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


ancient tradition
Meets Cutting Edge Tech

For more information, see:


www.misco.com/beer

MISCO
Refractometer
Solon, Ohio

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 67
68 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
Hopeless
Homebrew
Solutions
Lets face ithomebrewers sometimes craft batches that just arent drinkable, especially when
theyre new to brewing or using new equipment or ingredients. So what do you do with a
multi-gallon batch of oops? Here are four significantly tastier solutions. By Emily Hutto

1. If the batch is too yeasty or too


husky, make beer biscuits.
Find yourself with a yeast bomb or an astringent, grainy
homebrew? These yeasty, overly husky flavors are hardly de-
Beer Biscuits
sirable in beer; however they can be nice flavor complements 2 cup bread flour
to beer bread, biscuits, and other beery baked goods. 1 tsp sugar
Heres a biscuit recipe passed down from my mother that 2 tsp baking powder
Ive adapted as beer bread, which tends to take on the flavor tsp baking soda
profile of the beer style used. For sweeter, darker breads, tsp salt
use porters, stouts, or other dark ales. For drier, more savory cup butter
breads try pale ale, IPA, or pilsner. cup shortening
1 cup ( 8 fl oz) homebrew
THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW
If the beer was too yeasty, use a clean, healthy yeast strain and Preheat the oven to 450F (232C). In a
be sure to let the beer ferment long enough so the yeast set- large mixing bowl, combine the flour,
tles out. If the beer was too husky, be sure to properly crush sugar, baking powder, baking soda,
all of your grain (if youre doing so yourself ) so that it can all and salt. Cut in room temperature pats
be extracted during sparging. Additionally, cold conditioning of butter and shortening. Add the beer.
the beer can help its graininess to settle out with the yeast. Knead into the dough. With a rolling
pin, roll out the dough to a -inch
thickness. Cut with a biscuit cutter,
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

then place in a greased cast-iron pan.


Bake 1416 minutes until biscuit tops
are slightly golden.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 69
| HOPELESS HOMEBREW SOLUTIONS |

2. If the batch is under-attenuated or


under-carbed, make beer soap.
Fermentation and carbonation issues in homebrew are a
great excuse to take on another unique DIY project: soap Beer-Bar Soap
Your making. Cate Evans-Baze, who owns Let It Be Naturals in

Spent Colorado, crafts a line of beer soap using beer from local
breweries.
33 oz coconut oil
4.83 oz lye (NaOH)
Grain Heres my story about beer soap, she says. Beer soap mak-
ing requires the cold-process method. You can basically take
12 oz homebrew
oz essential oils of
After a brew day, any recipe that you like and simply replace the water with your choice
salvage the spent beer, says Evans-Baze.
grain by either im- Start the beer-soap process with cold, flat beer. I usually put my Youll also need pH strips and
mediately freezing beer in a large glass bowl in the refrigerator for three or more a slow cooker.
it or drying it on a days, says Evans-Baze. Every time I open the fridge, I stir the Pour the cold beer into a
baking pan at 200F
(93C) until the batch beer to help with the process of losing carbonation. Some people glass bowl and add the lye to
is crisp. From there, decide to boil their beer for a bit and then either put it in ice cube the beer (dont add the beer to
the grain can be trays or back in the refrigerator for another day. Bottom line: the the lye). Do this step outside
used directly in a beer must be flat, and it must be cold. while wearing protective gear
baked-goods recipe The beer must be cold because the next step, adding the lye as the mixture will get very
or ground to make or alkaline solution, can be tricky. Even with water, the lye hot. Cool for 10 minutes.
spent-grain flour.
If you have a loyal gets crazy, crazy hot, but the beer takes [the temperature] to a Melt the coconut oil in a
brew dog, he or she whole new level. saucepan and add it to the
will appreciate this This lye mixture can have a funky smell, says Evans-Baze. slow cooker. Add the cooled
spent-grain dog You can counteract that smell with the use of essential oils and beer/lye mixture to the slow
treat recipe that other ingredients. There are an endless number of things you cooker. Stir the ingredients
Ive adapted from can throw in the recipe, she explains. Ive added coriander, until they form a thick
Deschutes Brewery,
with added herbs lemon peel, crushed hops, ground-up barley, and amazing sauce-like substance. Cover
for minty fresh dog essential oils that complement the beer. and cook on low heat for 45
breath. minutes to an hour. The soap
THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW is finished when it is translu-
Spent-Grain Dog Be sure that fermentation is complete before bottling. At bottling, cent and at a pH level of 7 to
Biscuits make sure that youve added the right amount of priming sugar 10. Wait until the soap cools
2 cup spent grain
2 cup flour to your beer and that you still have a healthy yeast population. For and add essential oils. When
2 eggs high-gravity beers that spent a long time in the fermentor, you soap is cool and firm, cut into
1 cup natural peanut may need to add fresh yeast to the bottles before conditioning. Let squares and let dry.
butter bottles sit at fermentation temperature or room temperature for
cup fresh mint, at least two to three weeks.
chopped

Preheat the oven


to 350F (177C). In
a large bowl, blend
the ingredients

3.
together to form a

If the batch is too


dough. Roll out the
dough on a floured
Beer-Barbeque
boozy, barbecue it.
surface and use
a cookie cutter to Sauce
cut desired shapes.
Put the shapes on cup molasses
a cookie sheet and If your batch of imperial stout has alcohol heatbut not in a cup mustard
bake for 30 minutes. good waytame the sharpness by reducing it down to a bar- cup chili sauce
For longer lasting becue sauce. Heres an adapted Breckenridge Brewery recipe 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
treats, after those 30
minutes reduce the for this crafty condiment. Typically the brewery makes this cup powdered onion
heat to 225F (107C) beer-barbeque sauce with its Oatmeal Stout. tsp salt
and bake for 2 more tsp pepper
hours. THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW cup homebrew
Extra booziness is often the result of too high of fermenta-
tion temperatures or excess yeast in fermentation. Keeping Combine all the ingredients
fermentation temperatures within the specified range of your in a small saucepan and bring
chosen yeast strain and highly attenuative yeast can help to to a boil. Reduce heat and
solve those issues. simmer for 15 minutes.

70 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


4. If the batch is too
estery, brine it.
Professional chef-turned-homebrewer Sean Paxton, who
runs the cooking-with-beer website hombrewchef.com, is
a big fan of beer brine. During brining, osmosis removes
liquid from the meat being brined and replaces it with fla-
vors that hydrate the meat, Paxton explains. If your Dop-
plebock or Hefeweizen took on an estery life of its own
during fermentation, soak up those extra fruit-forward
flavors with roasted turkey. Here is Paxtons turkey brine
recipe, adapted with some extra basil and rosemary. Add
your own fresh herbs or spices to brine out with a bang.

THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW


Try fermenting at a lower temperature. The higher the
temperature, the more ester character your beer will dis-
play. You can also consider switching to a yeast strain that
produces fewer esters.

Beer-Brined Turkey
4 qt homebrew
2 cup kosher salt
1 cup sugar
4 bay leaves
2 bunches fresh rosemary
1 cup loosely packed basil
3 bunches fresh thyme
3 yellow onions, peeled and chopped
3 stalks celery, sliced
3 medium carrots, peeled and sliced
2 lemons, quartered
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
4 qt ice or water
1 turkey (thawed if frozen)

In a large pot, combine the beer, salt, sugar, bay


leaves, rosemary, basil, thyme, onion, celery, carrots,
lemons, and garlic.Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and
simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.Add
the ice or cold water; it will help cool the brine solu-
tion.Add the turkey to the brine and refrigerate for
1 hour or until well-chilled.
Preheat the oven to 350F (177C).Remove the tur-
key from the brine and pat dry.Truss the bird with
twine to hold its shape and cook evenly.Place in a
roasting pan and roast until a temperature probe
inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers
an internal temperature of 165F (74C).(If you
dont have a probe, a 16- to 20-pound turkey should
take between 3 and 4 hours to fully cook at this
temperature.) Let the turkey rest for 2030 minutes
before carving.This will help the keep the turkey
moist by letting the meat relax and redistribute its
juices.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 71
IERE
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THE NEW
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The Power of

PALE Ale

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 73
The Power of

PALE Ale

Pales
A PALE ALE STYLE GUIDE

in Comparison
By Dave Carpenter WERE YOU TO PRESENT a taster tray
to a craft-beer newcomer and ask your
From Whence It Came
Once upon a time, all beer was dark and
subject to identify the pale ale in the smoky thanks to rudimentary malt kilning
lineup, he or she could be forgiven for techniques that involved wood fire and
pointing to the Pilsner. The pale in pale offered brewers little control over the drying
ale is a holdover from a time when most process. As technology improved, malts be-
British pints were opaque (See How came increasingly lighter in color, culminat-
Pale is Pale? page 77), while todays pale ing in the so-called white malt that brewers
ales are almost universally a translucent in Burton-on-Trent favored in the 1800s. So
copper hue, somewhere between blonde popular was this extra pale malt that Czech
ale and amber. brewers stole the idea and invented what we
The name might not be as apt an appel- now know as Pilsner malt.
lation as it once was, but pale ale is more Armed with this new pale malt, British
relevant than ever. Walk into any pub in brewers exported vast quantities of pale
Britain and youre virtually guaranteed a ale to India before it began catching on
pint of bitter, lovingly pumped up from in Britain as a refreshing alternative to
the cellar with a swan-necked beer engine. various brown and black beers. Thus, pale
And American pale ale lies at the very ale as a distinct style emerged initially as
heart of the Hophead Revolution, offering pale ale for India and later as the diverse
a blank canvas upon which to slather hops family of English bitters whose starting
even while retaining enough malt back- gravities were eventually driven southward
bone to remind you that it isnt an IPA. by taxes and wartime rationing.
Pale ales appeal lies in its ability to invite
endless experimentation while remaining English Pale Ale
an intimately familiar everyday ale. When English pale ales are affable and approach-
your palate cant take another sour and able. Also known as bitter, English pale ale
your liver has had it with imperial stout, is a single continuum of beer styles (more
pale ale is the old friend you keep coming on that in a bit), with some examples bare-
back to again and again. ly breaching 3 percent alcohol by volume

74 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEERANDBREWING.COM | 75
The Power of

PALE Ale

MAKE IT
Tag Team
Pale Ale TABLE 1
Style Guidelines for
ALL-GRAIN

Brewers from Odell Brewing Company


and New Belgium Brewing Company
developed Tag Team for the 2013 Taste
English Pale Ales
of Fort Collinsa three-day festival that BJCP 2008 GABF 2014
offers local food, beer, entertainment, and
artwork. While the original gravity is right Ordinary OG 1.0321.040 OG 1.0331.038
(standard) bitter FG 1.0071.011 FG 1.0061.012
in line with American pale ale, the hops
IBU 2535 IBU 2035
load is more akin to American IPA. ABV 3.23.8% ABV 3.04.2%

OG: 1.050 Special OG 1.0401.048 OG 1.0381.045


FG: 1.011 (best) bitter FG 1.0081.012 FG 1.0061.012
IBU 2540 IBU 2840
IBUs: 50
ABV 3.84.6% ABV 4.24.8%
ABV: 5.1%
Extra special OG 1.0481.060 OG 1.0461.060
MALT/GRAIN BILL (strong) bitter FG 1.0101.016 FG 1.0101.016
8 lb (3.6 kg) Pale malt IBU 3050 IBU 3045
ABV 4.66.2% ABV 4.85.8%
10 oz (283 g) Pilsner malt
8 oz (227 g) Munich malt
8 oz (227 g) Carafoam
6 oz (170 g) Caramalt

HOPS SCHEDULE (ABV) and others climbing to 6 percent low-gravity examples sturdy enough to
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 45 minutes ABV or higher. These beers also tend to prop up a night of larking about.
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 35 minutes have wonderfully evocative names such English pale ales are usually at their best
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 25 minutes as Workie Ticket (Mordue Brewery), when served in the traditional way, which
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 15 minutes Old Hooky (Hook Norton Brewery), is with low carbonation (1.11.5 volumes,
0.25 oz(7 g)Nugget at 5 minutes Big Lamp Bitter (Big Lamp Brewery), or 23 grams per liter, of CO2) and at
1 oz (28 g) Crystal at knockout and Old Speckled Hen (Greene King cellar temperature (5055F/1013C).
1 oz(28 g)Crystal at end of whirlpool Brewery). When English pale ale first came on
1.50 oz(43 g)Nugget at dry hop (5 days) Built on a foundation of nutty, biscuity the scene, pub customers commonly
0.75 oz(21 g)Amarillo at dry hop (5 days) British pale malt, English pale ales requested pints of bitter to distinguish
0.75 oz(21 g)Perle at dry hop (5 days) almost invariably feature a healthy mea- such ales from sweeter, maltier mild ales.
sure of crystal malt, which adds caramel The name stuck, and nowadays, the term
DIRECTIONS or toffee-like depth. Some examples also bitter typically implies a cask-conditioned
Mash for 60 minutes at 151F (66C), include a bit of toasted or roasted malt, draft product that one purchases in a pub,
sparge, and boil for 90 minutes, following more for color than flavor, and others while pale ale means a bottled beer meant
the hops schedule. Add knockout hops even sneak in maize or sugar adjuncts to be consumed off premises.
at flameout, and whirlpool for 10 min- from time to time. Finally, a note on nomenclature. Bitter,
utes. (Whirlpool is a post-boil, pre-chill Hops are almost always of English ordinary bitter, special bitter, best bitter,
technique that professional brewers use origin. Floral, earthy East Kent Goldings and extra special bitter (ESB) are all
to concentrate the trub and hops solids to hops are perhaps most closely associated English pale ales: They differ only in
the center of the boil kettle.) If your sys- with English pale ale, but minty, grassy their relative strengths. The Beer Judge
tem doesnt permit a whirlpool, a 10-min- Fuggle comes in a close second. Styrian Certification Program (BJCP) 2008 and
ute hop standallowing the hot wort to Goldings from Slovenia also find their Great American Beer Festival (GABF)
sit for 10 minutes before chillingis a way into these beers, but Styrians are 2014 style guides divide English pale ale
great substitute. Add end-of-whirlpool biologically Fuggles, not Goldings. Com- into three completely arbitrary catego-
hops, then chill and transfer to fermentor. mon bittering hops include Challenger, ries, shown in Table 1.
Ferment 10 days at 66F (19C), then rack Northdown, and Target.
to secondary and add dry hops. Package in A defining feature of English pale ale is American Pale Ale
bottles or kegs after 5 days of dry hopping. a recognizable complement of fruity es- The pioneers of American craft brewing
ters that derive from the signature yeast initially followed British brewing tradi-
YEAST strains that ferment these ales. As a gen- tions because the equipment require-
White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale or eral rule, English strains are moderate ments are relatively simple, and much of
Wyeast 1098 British Ale or Safale S-04 attenuators and highly flocculent, which the early homebrewing literature came
means that English pale ale tends to be from the United Kingdom. But, as is
brilliantly clear and full-bodied. It is this usually the case, American craft-brewed
fullness on the palate that makes even pale ale soon broke ranks from traditional

76 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


How Pale Color (SRM) 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Blonde ale

Is Pale?
When is pale not pale? When it refers to pale ale,
Cream ale
of course! Below are some color ranges for a few
selected styles, as suggested by the Beer Judge Witbier
Certification Programs (BJCP) 2008 guidelines.
Not only are English and American pale ales
generally several shades darker than blonde ale,
cream ale, wit, and Klsch, but they are often as
Klsch
dark as Vienna and Oktoberfest, both considered
amber lagers.
It all comes down to context. Pale ale is, in fact,
American pale ale
pale, but only in comparison to mild ales, brown
ales, porters, and stouts. As I explain in Pale by
Comparison (page 74), until pale malt became English pale ale
widely available, beer would have necessarily
been some shade of brown or black. The term
pale ale was coined when improved kilning tech- Saison
nology enabled brewers to create ever-lighter
malts, which led to ever-lighter beers. Compared
to the porters of yore, the new beers were very Belgian tripel
pale, indeed.
But still today, the term can remain a bit of
Belgian golden
a stretch, even within the style category itself.
Apparently different brewers have different ideas strong ale
of what it means to be pale. Here are the approxi-
mate SRM values of a few commercial examples: Vienna lager
Firestone Walker Pale 31 7 srm
Mirror Pond Pale Ale 9 srm
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 10 srm Oktoberfest lager
Fort Collins Brewery 1020 Pale Ale 12 srm
Firestone Walker DBA 13.5 srm
Schlafly Pale Ale 13.5 srm
Ska Brewing Euphoria Pale Ale 15 srm
All of this is, of course, fairly inconsequential,
particularly in light of such category-defying
terms as black IPA and golden stout. As far as Im
concerned, you can call your beer whatever you
like, as long as it tastes good!

As with most American derivatives of English balanced between malt and hops, Amer-
ican pale ale definitely leans toward the
styles, hops play a greater role in American pale latter. The malt backbone of American pale
ale than they do in the British original, but its not ale is mostly there to balance the hops,
although care should be taken not to be
just about quantity: Its even more a question of too restrained with the malt, lest one end
aroma and flavor. up in IPA territory. The typical grist for an
American pale ale is built on American
pale malt or 2-row, with varying amounts of
caramel malt. Some brewers like to include
a portion of Munich or Vienna malt to
English bitters and charted its own course, This paved the way for countless others, fortify the background malt character, but
which, naturally, includes more hops. including Mirror Pond from Deschutes this is by no means universal.
The archetypal American pale ale (APA) (Bend, Oregon), Zombie Dust from Three As with most American derivatives of
is that brewed by Sierra Nevada Brewing Floyds (Munster, Indiana), AlesSmith X English styles, hops play a greater role in
Company (Chico, California), which is (San Diego, California), Victory Headwa- American pale ale than they do in the Brit-
usually credited as having invented the ters (Downington, Pennsylvania), Firestone ish original, but its not just about quantity:
style. What originally set Sierra Nevadas Walkers Pale 31 (Paso Robles, California), Its even more a question of aroma and fla-
interpretation apart was its reliance on the and Dales Pale Ale from Oskar Blues vor. While English pale ales display floral,
then-boisterous Cascade hops, with its (Lyons, Colorado). earthy, and even grassy hops aromas and
signature grapefruit-like aroma and flavor. While English pale ales remain fairly flavors, American brewers prefer to infuse

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 77
The Power of

PALE Ale

TABLE 2
Style Guidelines for
American Pale Ales
BJCP 2008 GABF 2014

American OG 1.0451.060 OG 1.0441.050


pale ale FG 1.0101.015 FG 1.0081.014
IBU 3045 IBU 3050
ABV 4.56.2% ABV 4.45.4%

American N/A OG 1.0501.060


strong pale ale FG 1.0081.016
IBU 4050
ABV 5.66.3%

their pale ales with citrus, pine, resin, and style guide recognizes one American pale
tropical fruit. Typical hops varieties found ale (IPA notwithstanding), while the GABF
in American pale ales include old classics 2014 guidelines describe two (for more in-
such as Cascade, Centennial, Columbus, formation about the American strong pale
and Chinook; proprietary examples such ale, see Beyond Bitter, page 83).
as Amarillo, Ahtanum, Citra, Simcoe,
and Mosaic; and, increasingly, hops from Belgian Pale Ale
Down Under such as Pacifica, Rakau, While one usually thinks of England and
Motueka, and Galaxy. the United States when speaking of pale
Another distinguishing characteristic ale, the Belgians also produce the aptly
of American pale ale has to do with the named Belgian pale ale. Built on Euro-
timing of hops additions. While English pean Pilsner malt, Belgian pale ale is a
bitters usually rely on a single bittering delight, balancing up-front malt sweetness
charge and a moderate flavor and aroma with toasty whole-wheat cracker-like over-
dose toward the end of the boil, late hop- tones and just enough hops bitterness to
ping is essential to American examples of keep everything in check. A Belgian yeast
this style. Virtually all American pale ales strain usually offers up a bit more in the
feature a generous addition of hops within way of esters than is found in American
the last few minutes of the boil; most pale ale, but fermentation by-products
receive some kind of addition at flameout; arent nearly as intense as those that typify
and many are even dry hopped. This late dubbels, tripels, and Belgian strong ales.
hops character makes American pale ale Commercial examples of Belgian pale
The archetypal so intoxicating. ale include De Koninck (Antwerp, Bel-
American pale ale American pale ales usually exhibit re-
strained yeast character. A few subtle esters
gium), Rare Vos from Brewery Omme-
gang (Cooperstown, New York), and New
(APA) is that brewed by are there, enough to let you know youre Belgium Brewings Fat Tire (Fort Collins,
Sierra Nevada Brewing not drinking a lager, but the overall im-
pression is clean enough that ones focus
Colorado/Asheville, North Carolina),
which may be marketed as an amber ale,
Company. Its reliance remains on the brewers expression of malt but stylistically, its a Belgian pale ale.
on then-boisterous and hops. In fact, the most popular APA
yeast strain for homebrewers and profes-
Whether youre enjoying a nonic pint of
bitter in Leeds, a shaker glass of APA in
Cascade hops, with sionals alike is the so-called Chico strain, Portland, or a bolleke of biscuity Belgian
their signature grape- said to have originated with Sierra Nevada
and sold commercially as Wyeast 1056
beer in Antwerp, theres a pale ale for every
occasion. As comfortable with a bowl of
fruit-like aroma and American Ale, White Labs WLP001 Califor- steamed mussels as it is with cold leftover
flavor, set it apart. nia Ale, and Fermentis Safale US-05.
As shown in Table 2, the BJCPs 2008
pizza, its the ultimate everyday beer that
makes others pale in comparison.

78 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


CB&B RECIPE CB&B RECIPE READER RECIPE

City Boy APA American 30-Minute


ALL-GRAIN
Mate Pale Ale Pale Ale
This single-hops pale ale showcases the ALL-GRAIN ALL-GRAIN
versatility of high alpha-acid Citra hops
as both a bittering and aroma hops. This ale is a play on a British pale ale Inspired by the constant hopping tech-
using American hops. niques used in Dogfish Head 60 and 90
Estimated OG: 1.058 Minute IPAs, Alex Grote concocted this
Estimated FG: 1.017 Estimated OG: 1.058 nice, drinkable pale ale that showcas-
Estimated IBUs: 42 Estimated FG: 1.012 es a good balance between the malt
Estimated ABV: 5.3% Estimated IBUs: 42 backbone and well-rounded hops flavor
Estimated ABV: 6% and aroma.
MALT/GRAIN BILL
11 lb (5 kg) pale malt (2-row) MALT/GRAIN BILL Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters)
2.5 lb (1.1 kg) caramel malt (10 SRM) 5 lb (2.3 kg) pale malt (2-row) Estimated OG: 1.057
1 lb (453 g) caramel malt (20 SRM) 5 lb (2.3 kg) Marris Otter Estimated FG: 1.011
1 lb (453 g) Vienna malt IBUs: 48
HOPS SCHEDULE 1 lb (453 g) Aromatic malt Estimated ABV: 6%
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at 30 minutes 0.5 lbs (227 g) caramel malt (120 SRM)
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at 15 minutes 0.5 lbs (227 g) light brown sugar at 15 MALT/GRAIN BILL
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at 0 minutes minutes 4.5 lb (2.4 kg) pale malt or 2-row
1 oz ( 28 g) Citra at dry hop 4.5 lb (2.4 kg) pilsner malt
HOPS SCHEDULE 1 lb (0.45 kg) aromatic malt
DIRECTIONS 1 oz ( 28 g) Liberty at 60 minutes 1 lb (0.45 kg) cara-pils/dextrine malt
Mash at 151F (66C) for 60 minutes. 1 oz ( 28 g) Liberty at 30 minutes 1 lb (0.45 kg) caramel/crystal malt (60 SRM)
Boil for 90 minutes, following the hops 1 oz ( 28 g) Amarillo at 15 minutes
schedule. Volume after boil should 1 oz ( 28 g) Amarillo at 5 minutes HOPS SCHEDULE
be 6 gallons to allow for absorption of 1 oz Centennial at 60 minutes
liquid by the hops in the dry-hop stage. DIRECTIONS .25 oz Amarillo at 30 minutes
Ferment at 65F (18C). Dry hop for 13 Mash at 151F (66C) for 60 minutes. .25 oz Cascade at 25 minutes
days. Boil for 90 minutes, following the .25 oz Amarillo at 20 minutes
hops schedule, to get 6 gallons of wort. .25 oz Cascade at 15 minutes
YEAST Ferment at 65F (18C). Dry hop for 23 .25 oz Amarillo at 10 minutes
White Labs WLP041 Pacific Ale days. .25 oz Cascade at 5 minutes
.25 oz Amarillo at 0 minutes
Recipes are built to yield a batch size of YEAST .25 oz Cascade at 0 minutes
5 gallons and assume 72% brewhouse Wyeast 1028 London Ale Yeast
efficiency unless otherwise noted. DIRECTIONS
Mash for 60 minutes at 152F (67C).
Boil for 75 minutes, following the hops
schedule. Ferment at 65F (18C) until
final gravity is reached.

YEAST
Wyeast 1056 American Ale

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 79
The Power of

PALE Ale

s Perspectives :
Brewer

THE FU LL SP EC
OF PA LE AL E Are pale ale differences a regional thing or an old-school/
new-school thing? Four craft brewers share their thoughts
bitter and still incredibly flavorful, Chandler
explains. The brewery came out of the gate
with its original Pale Ale that uses American
on todays pale ales By Emily Hutto and Munich malts and German hops. This
beer is hopped like a lager and fermented
THERES NO DENYING THAT the like an ale to create a smooth, bright taste
farther west one travels in the United that has just a hint of fruit and spice.
States, the hoppier the local IPA will be. I A later addition to Ballast Points beer
expected the same for pale ale, but when I lineup was the Grunion Pale Ale, an Inter-
tracked down craft brewers from the west- national Pale Ale brewed with two modern
ern, midwestern, southern, and north- American hops varieties, Mosaic and Calyp-
eastern United States to speak to their so. Much like its Klsch-style sister, this pale
respective quadrants pale ale, I found that ale has a light grain bill of Marris Otter and
wasnt always the case. Carapils malt. Its hops aroma and flavor are
that of cantaloupe and green melon.
Close to Klsch Were getting to the point where
Here is the condensed spectrum of Amer- regular single pale ales are starting to
ican pale ales according to Colby Chandler, taste more like IPAstheyre losing the
the executive director and specialty brewer malt base and boosting the hops aroma,
at Ballast Point Tasting Room & Kitchen in says Chandler. The pale ales in the West,
San Diego, California: The pale ales made and especially in the San Diego area, are
in the United States get hoppieroften bright with strong hops aroma imparted
from the addition of nouveau hopsand from the late addition of hops into the ket-
drier as you head west. They lose some of tle or into the fermentor for dry hopping
the malt profile thats more apparent in En- post-fermentation.
glish-style pale ales and take on the profiles
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

of traditional German pale ales, inspired by Gushing With Hops


crisp, refreshing Klsch ales. Generally speaking, the pale ales on the
For Ballast Point, pale ale was a bridge beer West Coast are very hoppy and dry and the
from light macro lagers to beer thats not too pale ales on the East Coast are more Brit-

80 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


TRUM
ish [and malty] in style, says Chris Bog-
gess, the head brewer at 3 Floyds Brewing
Co. in Munster, Indiana. Nowadays,
these style differences are getting more
blurred with most of the new breweries
making huge hoppy beers, he continues.
At 3 Floyds we like really hoppy beer
balanced with some malt character.
Enter Zombie Dust, the 3 Floyds pale
ale done justice by its package descrip-
tion: This intensely hopped and gushing
undead pale ale will be ones only respite
after the zombie apocalypse.
Zombie Dust is brewed with European
malts and hops from Germany and the
Yakima Valley. It weighs in at 50 IBUs and
6.2 percent ABV. A beer like Zombie Dust
would have been one of the hoppier IPAs on the aroma and dry hops, he says. than anywhere else in the country. In the
on the market back in the mid 90s when Most recently, Golden has been experi- South, he explains, beers are often brewed
I started brewing, says Boggess. [Today], menting brewing beers with no bittering to counteract the sweltering heat.
some pale ales are just as hoppy as IPAs. hops at all. It makes that drinkability just When I brewed in Maryland, we went
a little bit higher, he explains. heavy on the malt in pale ales, and often
The Everlasting Patio Beer Golden was a professional brewer in included crystal malt. That required more
Will Golden, the head brewer at Austin Maryland (at Frederick Brewing before it bitterness to make up for that caramel
Beerworks in Texas, thinks that craft became Flying Dog Brewery and then at and residual body, says Golden. Theres
breweries are creating pale ale for the Flying Dog before running the Barley & an amber, almost caramel color to a lot of
regions in which they live. In Texas, its all Hops brewpub) before landing at Austin the pale ales in the East, while pale ales
about drinkability. Most of the pale ales Beerworks. He confidently says that the from the West Coast tend to be pale in
in Texas are going to be extra dry with less pale ales brewed in the South are session- color and, of course, much more bitter in
bitterness. There is much more emphasis able and much lighter on hops bitterness every way.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 81
The Power of

PALE Ale

Five on Five
Pale ale is a popular beer style among brewers, some of whom couldnt just pick one favorite. Here
are five craft brewers on more than five pale ales.
Compiled by Emily Hutto

Jeff ONeil
Brewmaster at Peekskill Brewery, Peekskill, New York
I really love Victory Headwaters, and Ballast Point Brew-
ings Grunion is great, too. It won the gold medal (to our
NYPAs silver) at the 2014 Great American Beer Festival.

Will Golden
Head Brewer at Austin Beerworks, Austin, Texas
The first pale ale I had was Anchor Liberty Ale. It
holds a special place in my heart. Id never had any-
thing like it before, and I was blown away. It started Brewers Perspectives, contd
my downward spiral toward pale ales and IPAs. Old School, Newer School
I dont know that Id say that theres a
palpable regional take on pale ale, says
Jeff ONeil, the brewmaster at Peekskill
Brewery in New York.I would say
instead that theres a movement toward
Bryan Greenhagen really expressive hoppy beers that arent
Founder of Mystic Brewery, Chelsea, Massachusetts necessarily bitter, especially among new-
er breweries without long-established
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Perfect balance makes this beer
irresistibly drinkable while being refreshing and invigo-
flagships. He adds, But I dont think I
rating. It is a great American example of a style-defining can say its a regional phenomenon.
beer that has stood the test of time and is now both leg- Peekskill brews the Amazeballs pale
endary and accessible. There are very exciting new pale ale, a single-hops pale ale hopped
ales out there resulting from the explosion in aromatic with Galaxy hops from Australia. This
hops varieties, but few have the breadth of achievement American pale ale is extra dry, both
embodied in a glass of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
from its light grain bill and the use of
clean American ale yeast.
Amazeballs is vastly different from
Bob Sylvester the Captain Lawrence Brewing Co.s
Founder & Brewmaster at Saint Somewhere Brewing Freshchester Pale Ale (a citrusy, piney
Company, Tarpon Springs, Florida pale ale with a noticeable bitterness
There would be no American pale ale without Sierra and a strong malt backbone for bal-
Nevada. Its still my favorite, and its a great introduction ance) brewed just down the road from
to American hops. For English pale ales available in Peekskill in Elmsford, says ONeil. Its
the United States, Id have to say Fullers London Pride. very differentId say more tradition-
Its much different from Sierra Nevada, with a richer
malt character. The hops character is there, grassy and alfrom what were doing with beers
woody, but its in balance with the caramel maltiness. such as Amazeballs.
Its tough to beat one of the standard bearers. ONeil echoes the other brewers
sentiments that there are two domi-
nant stylistic profiles of pale ale in the
Brian Ross United States: dry and aromatically
Quality Assurance Specialist at Alaskan Brewing Co.,
Juneau, Alaska
hoppy; and malty and hops flavor-
forward. He doesnt qualify these two
A great pale ale that sticks out in my mind is the Fire- schools of pale ale as regional differ-
stone Walker Pale 31. I think it is just exemplary of the
stylea really full-flavored pale with everything in the
ences, though. Id say that theres that
right place. Its one of the rare beers that you really cant older-school approach in the style of
find any fault in, where you taste it and think, There is Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (an amazing
just no way this beer could be any better. It is so well beer!) and a twenty-first-century style
composed, with a wonderful whole-cone herbal note thats only been made possible by the
and remarkable hops brightness, as well as an extreme- amazing aroma hops that have been
ly pleasant floral quality. Its a very impressive and
timeless beer and one of my favorite pales.
bred and become available lately.

82 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


BEYOND BITTER:
DEFINING IMPERIAL PALE ALE
Imperial pale ale is a derivative style, one that could easily be defined
less by what it is than what it isnt. But in the liquid arts, as in those visual,
incredible beauty is to be found in the negative spaces.
By Dave Carpenter

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 83
The Power of

PALE Ale

THERE WAS A TIME, not so long ago, malt character. Hops flavor is high, reasonably be expected to do. I headed out
when one could go all the way from exhibiting floral, fruity, citrus-like, to sample some beer.
American pale ale (APA) to India pale piney, resinous, or sulfur-like
ale (IPA) without running across a single American-variety hops flavors. Hops Voluminously Hopped
other beer style. Youd leave APA at about bitterness is high. Fruity-ester flavor The drive along Colorado Highway 119
5 percent ABV, set the cruise, and let the is moderate to strong. from Boulder to Longmont, Colorado,
specific gravity points fly by. By the time features high-tech companies, rolling
you hit IPA at 6 or 7 percent, the land- The description toes a predictable line pastoral farmland, and an unnervingly
scape had lost some of its malty texture, between classic APA and IPA, but it large number of spandex-wrapped cyclists.
but dense, expansive lupulin forests more doesnt really tell us anything we couldnt Upon reaching Longmont, the first thing
than compensated the senses. reasonably deduce from the name of you encounter is a seventy-year-old silo
Those days are long gone. APA and the category. The styles numerics are, that has been transformed into a 40-foot
IPA are still there, of course, and better however, more illustrative. Take a look at tall can of Dales Pale Ale, a sure sign that
than ever, but where once there were vast the original gravity, alcohol by volume, youve reached the home of Oskar Blues
open spaces in between, now styles blend and bitterness ranges (Table 1) that the Brewery, which has crammed big, bold
together into an endless sea of pale ales. guidelines suggest for APA, American beers into little aluminum cans for more
Breweries variously refer to this sub-Bur- strong pale ale, and American IPA. than a decade.
ton sprawl as double pale ale, imperial Reflecting upon the numbers, we see Dales Pale Ale is Oskar Bluess flagship
pale ale, strong pale ale, extra pale ale, that American strong pale ale isnt so product and the first major craft beer to be
or any number of other vaguely defined much a style description as it is a place- sold in cans. Widely distributed from coast
terms. As craft brewers continue to slip holder to close the gap between APA and to coast, Dales is the best-selling pale ale
the surly bonds of stylistic constraint, a IPA (although a 5.5 percent ABV pale ale in the Centennial State. But, true to Oskar
whole new class of pale ale has emerged. would appear to have no home). We cant Bluess go-big-or-go-home approach, this
really infer a stylistic definition other than beer refuses to remain within the bound-
What Is Imperial Pale Ale? through a kind of yeah, but formulation. aries of the classic APA. Billed as a huge
Neither the Beer Judge Certification Pro- Perhaps more illustrative of the styles voluminously hopped mutha of a pale ale,
gram (BJCP) nor the Great American Beer elusive nature is that both AleSmith (San Dales typifies a style-bending approach
Festival (GABF) guidelines have much to Diego, California) IPA (7.25 percent ABV, that moves a beer out of one category with-
say on the matter of imperial pale ale. The 73 IBU) and Bear Republic (Cloverdale, out fully depositing it into the next.
GABF offers a starting point in American California) Racer 5 (7.5 percent ABV, Weve tried entering Dales into compe-
Strong Pale Ale category: 75 IBU) have medaled in the American titions in different categories, says Oskar
Strong Pale Ale category at GABF. These Blues Colorado Head Brewer Tim Mat-
American Strong Pale Ales are deep are both phenomenal beers, of course, thews, but its a hard beer to catego-
golden to copper Low caramel but they could just as easily have won as rize. At 6.5 percent ABV and 65
malt aroma is allowable. Fruity- American IPAs. And, in fact, they have. IBUs, its stylistically closer to
ester aroma should be moderate to So while American strong pale ale offers IPA than APA, but numbers
strong. Hops aroma is high, exhib- a much-needed venue in which to judge dont tell the whole story.
iting floral, fruity, citrus-like, piney, beers that might otherwise fall between Dales has classic
resinous, or sulfur-like American- the stylistic cracks, it doesnt necessarily American pale ale qualities
variety hops characters. Low-level define a genre. In search of more infor- that are out of place in an
maltiness may include low caramel mation, I did the only thing one could IPA. While its definitely

Where once there were vast open spaces in between APA


and IPA, now styles blend together into an endless sea of
pale ales. Breweries variously refer to this sub-Burton sprawl
as double pale ale, imperial pale ale, strong pale ale, extra
pale ale, or any number of other vaguely defined terms.
84 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING
MAKE IT
Rye Must You
Label Me?
ALL-GRAIN

Heftier than your typical American pale


ale, but not quite claiming IPA status, this
rye imperial pale ale features the sticky,
a hops-forward beer, all of those pine, Silver Jubilee resinous flavor of Chinook hops, plus
citrus, resin, and berry aromatics come Brent Cordle has a wonderfully verbose piney Simcoe and citrusy Centennial in
in on the hot side, so it doesnt have job title. As the Barrel Aging, Cellar the finish. If rye tends to give you stuck
quite the same character youd find in Series, and Pilot System Manager for mashes, include the optional rice hulls to
a dry-hopped IPA. Munich and crystal Odell Brewing Company in Fort Collins, keep the wort flowing.
malts lend a rich malt complexity that Colorado, Brent oversees Odells exten-
contrasts with many IPAs, especially sive barrel-aging program and helms OG: 1.062
West Coast IPAs, which tend to focus the five-barrel pilot system from which FG: 1.014
mostly on pale malt. the brewerys 5 Barrel Pale Ale takes its IBUs: 50
Tims observations bring us to an im- name. ABV: 6.3%
portant distinction that helps define this And Odell knows a thing or two
category more than any set of numbers about pale ale. Their 5 Barrel has thrice MALT/GRAIN BILL
can: An imperial pale ale showcases a bolder medaled at the Great American Beer 9 lb (4 kg) pale malt
hops profile than standard APA but retains Festival, and Odell IPA took home gold 1.5 lb (680 g) rye malt
the APAs complex malt backbone. Its this in 2007. The brewery also releases St. Lu- 1 lb (454 g) flaked rye
substantial malt bill that keeps Dales 65 pulin every summer, a 6.5 percent ABV, 1 lb (454 g) Simpsons Caramalt (35 SRM)
IBUs from overwhelming the palate. 6 oz (170 g) Simpsons Extra Dark Crystal
(160 SRM)
0.5 lb (227 g) rice hulls (optional)

HOPS SCHEDULE
1 oz (28 g) Centennial at 60 minutes
1 oz(28 g)Centennial at 5 minutes
1 oz(28 g)Chinook at 5 minutes
1 oz(28 g)Centennial at dry hop 7 days
0.5 oz(14 g)Chinook at dry hop 7 days
0.5 oz(14 g)Simcoe at dry hop 7 days

DIRECTIONS
Mash for 60 minutes at 152F (67C),
sparge, and boil for 60 minutes, following
the hops schedule. Chill, transfer to the
fermentor, and pitch yeast. Ferment at
65F (18C) for 1014 days or until final
gravity is reached, then rack to secondary
and add dry hops. Package in bottles or
kegs after 7 days of dry hopping.

YEAST
White Labs WLP001 California Ale or
Wyeast 1056 American Ale or Safale US-05
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 85
The Power of

PALE Ale

Editors TABLE 1
Picks:
Imperial GABF Guidelines
Pale Ales for Pale Ales
American American American
Pale Ale Strong Pale Ale IPA
OG 1.0441.050 1.0501.060 1.0601.075
ABV 4.45.4% 5.66.3% 6.37.6%
Bitterness 3050 IBU 4050 IBU 5070 IBU

46 IBU hops fest it deems an extra pale Brent notes. Thats why Silver and St.
ale. In contrast to Dales Pale Ale, much of Lupulin dont break 50 IBUs even though
St. Lupulins healthy hops load is infused they have an incredible hops nose.
into the brew post-boil. When I met up For comparison, 5 Barrel, a classic
Hill Farmstead with Brent in the Odell taproom, I had English-style pale ale features 36 IBUs,
Brewery Abner originally planned to discuss St. Lupulin, while Odell IPA boasts 70. And in this
Double Pale Ale but, as luck would have it, something even context, Silvers modest 40 IBUs bring us
After reading Jeff Baker more special was in store. to another important quality of this cate-
of the The Farmhouse The brewery had just released Silver, gory: Imperial pale ale delivers hops without
Grills writing in the
a collaboration brew with Kansas City fatiguing the palate.
Burlington Free Press on
the need for a Ver- based Boulevard Brewing to celebrate the
mont-style IPA, were two breweries twenty-fifth anniversaries So, What Is Imperial Pale
on board for a language (Odell and Boulevard opened within 24 Ale, Really?
around pales that ex- hours of one another in 1989). Available Having discussed this elusive style with
pands beyond the overly on draft in Odells eleven-state distribution brewers who produce world-class pale
reductive East Coast
footprint and in 750 milliliter bottles in ales and IPAs, I think the style is best
is malty, West Coast is
hoppy binary. Abner the twenty-nine states to which Boulevard expressed not in specific gravity units or
is a strong argument for distributes, Silver echoes Tim Matthewss international bittering units, but rather
that broader lexicon, assertion that malt-hops balance is a more holistically:
taking the soft mouth- distinguishing feature of imperial pale ale.
feel, radiant citrus notes, At 7.3 percent ABV and 40 IBUs, Silver is Imperial pale ale is a pale ale whose hops
and hazy golden body
well beyond pale ale territory, but this is aroma, hops flavor, and alcoholic strength
of Vermont DIPAs, yet
eschewing the need for definitely no IPA. have more in common with IPA than pale
IPA classification. We were aiming for a kind of cross ale, but whose malt profile and overall drink-
between a pale ale and a strong ESB, says ability have more in common with pale ale
Half Acre Brewing Brent. Odell strives for big aromas and a than IPA.
Double Daisy Cutter huge nose. That aroma is the first thing
Pale Ale
you experience when you bring a beer As brewers continue to push boundaries,
This imperial version
of Half Acres Daisy to your mouth. It makes you want more its likely that even more subtle distinc-
Cutter pale ale retains before you even take that first sip. tions will crop up to differentiate different
the grapefruit-like citrus In Silvers case, its a decidedly fruity, al- sub-styles, even among imperial pale ales.
notes of its namesake most strawberry-candy-like burst of aroma Think of the possibilities: Imperial Belgian
with a beefed up malt hops. Its a big beer, but with only 40 bal- pale ale, imperial black pale ale, and
backbone and a more
ancing IBUs, it doesnt feature the punch- imperial barrel-aged pale ale all seem likely
accessible bitterness
level compared to the you-in-the-face bitterness so common with candidates for experimentation.
hops bombs in the IPAs. And Silvers pale bronze hue is a Imperial pale ale might frustrate those
(admittedly almost visual prelude to the serious malt that lies who insist on keeping things in nice, neat,
PHOTO: JAMIE BOGNER

overlapping) double IPA underneath all of the hoppy goodness. little categories. But for those willing to
category. Our customers have an unquenchable accept a little ambiguity, its a great reason
thirst for hops, but they dont always want to just sit back and enjoy the ride.
the bitterness that accompanies them,

86 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


ed- Edition
Limit eer &
Craft Bng Merch
Brewi w at
On sale norand brewing.com
shop.be e

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Tasted
Pale ales led the American craft-beer revolution through the 80s and 90s, but a
new generation of brewers has firmly planted their own creative stamp on the
style. Join us as our blind-tasting panel tastes through the best commercially
available American Pale Ales and English Pale Ales in the United States.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 89
| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

INSIDE CB&B

How We TOP TOP


Taste & Test
RATED RATED

EDITORS

Reviewing beer may sound like a PICK


dream job, but our tasting and re-
view panel takes the role seriously.
Composed entirely of Beer Judge
Certification Program (BJCP) judg-
es who have all studied, trained,
and been tested on their ability to
discern characteristics in beer, our
panel is independent and doesnt
include any CB&B editors or staff.
The panel tastes all beer blindly
they do not know what brands
and beers they are tasting until the
tasting is complete.
Our goal is to inform you about
the strengths and weaknesses
of these beers as well as their rel-
ative differences (not everyone
has the same taste in beer, so 3 Floyds 3 Floyds 3 Floyds
accurate descriptors are more
valuable than straight numerical Alpha King Yum Yum Zombie Dust
values). The quotes you see
are compiled from the review
panels score sheets to give you a
well-rounded picture of the beer.
As our reviewers judge, they | ABV: 6.66% | IBU: 68 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 6.2% | IBU: 50 | SRM: N/A |
score based on the standard
BJCP components: Aroma (max
12 points), Appearance (max 3 What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
points), Flavor (max 20 points), A bold yet balanced American Pale Welcome to flavor country. This pale This intensely hopped and gushing
Mouthfeel (max 5 points), Ale with slight caramel sweetness and ale has just the right malt backbone undead Pale Ale will be ones only
and Overall Impression (max aggressive citrus hoppiness. This is our to support an explosive juicy hops respite after the zombie apocalypse.
10 points). Weve listed these flagship beer. profile derived from a new blend of
individual component scores, proprietary hops. What our panel thought
and the bottom-line number is
derived from adding then dou- What our panel thought Aroma: Some wonderful fruit notes
bling these component scores to Aroma: Grapefruit rind and citrus What our panel thought of blackberry, peach, fresh blueberry,
produce a rating on a 100-point peel up front, very juicy with a nice Aroma: An intense candy sweetness mango, and pineapple balanced
scale. Note that weve rounded subtle caramel malt sweetness that that is utterly unique and new to my beer against light onion notes and an almost
the printed component scores to pairs nicely. Dry piney notes are bal- experienceslike Starburst candy on white-wine character. Very resinous,
the nearest whole number, so the the nose or like the sweetened milk left catty, and fruity offset with a dank and
anced by citrus and tropical fruit hops
math wont necessarily add up.
Our judges use the following with prominent mango and lemon-zest after eating a bowl of sweet cereal. Its grassy earth character.
scale in valuing scores: notes. a crazy, unique hops aroma that smells Flavor: Hops present complex fruit
95100 Extraordinary Flavor: Grapefruit and citrus hops like candy or bubblegum and hops, or notes with a little more citrus character.
World-class beers of superlative notes pair well with a subtle malt even more accurately candied hops. Juicy hops flavors up front, reminiscent
character and flawless execution sweetness. Very balanced with both Flavor: The juicy hops character of grapefruit and pine, along with
9094 Exceptional sweet and bitter flavors shining carries through the beer from the start tropical fruit notes, faint onion notes,
Distinguished beers with special through. A juicy hops flavor with an to finish with lemon, orange, grapefruit, and an appropriate level of bitterness.
character, style, and flavor and an almost bubblegum sweetness. Finishes dry and clean.
intriguingly crisp malt bill that finishes
8589 Very good
Well-crafted beers with note- slightly sweet. It may get a little sweet The malt body is bright with a clean, Overall: A very creative beer with
worthy flavor and style for the style, but the piney and resinous crisp finish. Wild candy sweetness and a unique, beautiful, and delicious
8084 Good hops flavors balance the fruit notes flavors range from citrus, to banana, to hops profile. Dry, balanced base with
Solid, quality, enjoyable beers while the malt backbone supports the a butter rum hard candy with a touch of backbone to support (but not crowd)
7579 Above Average hops flavors. bitterness to balance the sweetness. the hops. Gorgeous hops profile that
Drinkable and satisfactory beers Overall: One of the most uniquely fla- showcases both piney, resinous, dank
Overall: A very nice, classic APA with
with minor flaws or style deviations
5074 Not recommended a touch more sweetness than most that vored beers that Ive tried, without the flavors with classic American citrus
works to pull the beer together. The addition of any adjunct or specialty in- notes and tropical fruit hops flavors,
Wed like for you to keep one
thing in mind as you read these malt backbone adds depth and support gredientsthis beer broadens the hops and a very clean fermentation profile
reviewsyour perception of a for the array of hops flavors without flavor lexicon. I love being surprised by to boot. Buy by the caseits an
beer is more important than overshadowing themits a creative beers, and this one surprised me in the excellent example of the style.
that of our review panel or edi- take on the style. best way. Seek this one out.

92 99 99
torial staff, and reading reviews
AROMA: 11 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 12
in a magazine (or on the Web APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
or in a book) is no substitute for FLAVOR: 18 FLAVOR: 20 FLAVOR: 20
trying the beer yourself. MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10

90 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Alaskan AleSmith X Bear Boulder Beer
Brewing Extra Pale Ale Republic Hoopla
Freeride APA Grand-Am Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.3% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.25% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 6% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.7% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
Alaskan Freeride APA features a lush, Fresh American hops are abundant but Grand-Am is a sessionable yet asser- A collaboration among Boulder Beer
green, almost tropical hops aroma carefully balanced by a light, crisp body tive American Pale Ale that balances brewers and Kyle Hollingsworth, key-
paired with the unique taste combina- and smooth bitterness. Notes of citrus both classic and new American hops boardist of The String Cheese Incident,
tion of Cascade, Citra, and Centennial and pine combine with a delicate malt varieties with a distinct malt backbone. Hoopla Pale Ale is dry hopped with
hops, making it both full in flavor and sweetness to create a flavorful drinking generous amounts of Glacier hops for a
crisply thirst-quenching. experience. What our panel thought fruity, floral hops aroma and flavor.
Aroma: Resiny, juicy hops notes with
What our panel thought What our panel thought pine and lemon/grapefruit/orange citrus What our panel thought
Aroma: Presents a hops character Aroma: Subtle cracker malt aromas at the forefront and mild biscuit toasty Aroma: Moderate hops aroma is re-
thats mostly floral with moderate and clean yeast fruit esters blend with notes from the malt. strained with mild citrus hopsorange
esters, citrus fruit aromas with some the forward floral/citrus hops aroma. Flavor: Citrus and pine hops flavors and grapefruitand light caramel,
stone fruit, and pine hops in the Hops candy and sweet resin play dominate with nearly no malt or yeast biscuit, and toast notes. Juicy citrus
background. Sweet caramel buttery against a spicy hops aroma with hints character. It leans more toward bitter, peel with notes of grapefruit, lemon
notes in the malt. Hops aroma drops of apricot and lemon hops. both in flavor and finish, than some zest, and tangerine. Hops dominate.
fairly quickly. Flavor: Light malt flavor lends a dry, of the others weve tasted. The hops Flavor: A moderate hops bitterness,
Flavor: Earthy, grassy hops flavor crisp finish. Strong carbonation really grapefruit sweetness is evened out with balanced by a decent malt backbone
with a touch of spicy. Bitterness is here makes the clean and well-defined hops a touch of grapefruit bitterness and and slight mineral character. Light
but not pronounced. Reasonable malt flavor pop out! Assertive hops flavor is lemon notes that add depth. The finish is on the body, and the juicy orange and
backing provides medium sweetness spicy with some grassy-citrus notes and refreshing and dry. bitter grapefruit hops character carries
against the prominent fruity hops pro- a bitterness that lingers just enough. Overall: A classic version of an APA through to a dry and crisp finish.
file. Finishes dry with a nice bitterness. Very light, spritzy body. with entertaining hops complexity. Leans Balanced and just slightly bitter but
Peach and orange hops flavor is more Overall: Crisp, clean, light, and re- toward the bitter side, but still drink- doesnt linger long in the finish.
subdued than the aroma promises. freshingjust what I want after work. ablevery tasty and worth seeking out. Overall: It doesnt take many risks, but
Overall: A nice example of a less A great take on the style with plenty of This beer was very refreshing, juicy, and this pale ale showcases the hops and
hops-centric take on the style. Tasty character all around, but easy to enjoy sweet. Nice showcase of the hops and a finishes slightly juicy and sweet, which
beer, easy drinking, and not too more than one glass. Pleasant example great example of the style. A solid beer. leads to the next sip. While not quite
assertive. Nicely done representation of of stylevery easy to drink. A very as exciting as other examples, this is a
the stylebalance is appropriate as is light-bodied APA with an effervescent well-executed APA with an accessible
lingering bitterness. Very nice, on the character where the hops dominate and hops profile and just the right amount of
sweeter/maltier end of the American the straightforward malt is only there bitternessa great APA that is worth
pale-ale spectrum. to support. seeking out.

87 94 93 87
AROMA: 10 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 18 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 91
| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

Boulevard Deschutes Drakes 1500 Epic Brewing


Pale Ale Brewery Element 29
Mirror Pond Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 30 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.5% | IBU: 48 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.2% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
Boulevard Pale Ale is a smooth, Cascade hops and more Cascade hops A hops-forward American Pale Ale. This hops-forward APA highlights Am-
fruity, well-balanced beer. A variety of give this tawny-colored ale delicious Loads of Simcoe and Amarillo hops arillo hops sweet, ripe citrus aroma and
caramel malts impart a rich flavor and hops-forward aroma and flavor. Pale are blended in the fermentor just after flavor reminiscent of Valencia oranges
amber color, while liberal use of whole malt allows the hops to linger, not fermentation has finished to impart a and tangerines. It has a medium body
hops adds zest and aroma. overpower. huge aroma of pine and juicy citrus. with a malt character ranging from
light crust to mild graham cracker.
What our panel thought What our panel thought What our panel thought
Aroma: Medium-high notes of peach Aroma: Classic Northwest hops Aroma: Strong hops in the nose What our panel thought
marmalade with light pineapple and citrus nose with notes of sweet orange grassy and earthy with sweet grapefruit Aroma: A bit muddled in the nose with
bread notes way in the background. juice and a touch of resin. Light malt and citrus notes and an almost vanilla some mercaptan/sulfur that fades as it
Yeasty fruit aromas blend with the sweetness with notes of honey (like undertone. A very unique and wonderful warms. Medium fruity hops aroma with
hops. Slight malt sweetness on the Bit-o-Honey candy), but not overpow- aroma that persiststhe hops almost slight breadiness and some melanoidin
nose accentuates hops fruit notes of ering. Fruity yeast esters hint at apple, jump out of the glass. Slight cattiness notes. Pear or peach esters. Moderate
strawberry, cherry, mango, and peach. strawberry, and pear. Ester aromas are to add complexity, but subtle. hops nose with a bit of pine needle and
Flavor: Big hops flavor up front. strongthe fermentation character is Flavor: The hops are present and earthy weight.
Hops bitterness and malt sweetness almost stronger than the hops aroma. showcased but not overpowering. Its a Flavor: Very nice malt/bitter balance.
are well-balanced, and stone fruit Flavor: Medium body for an APA, me- clean pale that allows the hops flavor to Toasty crust with a touch of brown
abounds. Malty hit with just a touch dium to high carb. Honey character and dominate and shine with overripe citrus sugar and medium-high hops flavors
of tart. Bitterness is appropriate and citrus tartness return in the aftertaste. (mostly orange) and very nice resiny, of grass and flowers, lingering into the
well-balanced. Low astringency, finish Reasonable bitterness but could use a piney hops notes. Finishes slightly dry finish. Sweeter malt backbone provides
is quick and inviting. Moderate hops bit more hops flavor. Balance is a bit with a lingering grapefruit sweetness ample room for hops to play. Hops
flavor and a big ester punch. on the malt sweet side, but the lack of and slight bitterness. bitterness is clean and restrained. Hint
Overall: Yum. Its light on the late bitter is made up in hops flavor. Overall: An amazing beer thats a of oxidation tints the flavor.
hops character that defines more Overall: Predominant orange creamsi- master course in hops presentation. Overall: A tasty example of the style.
contemporary APAs, but its very cle character is interesting. Its a more The hops are expertly showcased using Sulfurs are distracting (maybe a young
well-balanced with pleasing notes of malt-focused pale ale that wanders a perfectly crafted base beer thats bottle?), so let it breathe a bit. Lower
strawberry, mango, and other fruits a bit into winter warmer territory bitter, dry, and yet remains balanced carbonation lends a smooth mouthfeel,
(even a touch of olives). Phenolic finish and borders on English in terms of all characteristics that accentuate the accentuating malt. A pretty-solid
slightly distracting. yeast character. Theres enough malt hops and keep the beer very drinkable. beerhops character is nicely blended
complexity and richness here to back This beer showcases how APAs can be with malt backbone. This would go well
up a bolder showcase of hops. a great canvas for hops. with a roast beef dinner.

87 92 97 82
AROMA: 11 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 9
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 18 FLAVOR: 20 FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 9

92 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Evil Twin Firestone Flying Dog Fort Collins
Hipster Ale Walker Pale Ale Brewery 1020
Pale 31 Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 4.9% | IBU: 38 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.5% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.3% | IBU: 40 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
Perhaps you heard of a beer-move- Floral and citrus hops aromas greet The alpha of the pack, Flying Dog 1020 Pale Ale has a citrus aroma with
ment that tributes favorite hipster the nose with undertones of lightly Pale Ale complements a wide range of underlying tones of pine and grapefruit
neighborhoods across the globe. If you toasted malt. Crisp pale and crystal foods. Flavor notes: Grassy, citrus, and zest that inhabit the flavor, while a
feel excluded because youre hip but malts offer a hint of sweetness. Subtle slight perfume hops aromas with subtly smooth, light body and crisp, clean
your city isnt, this hip-without-border hops bitterness offers a refreshing finish. sweet malt body. bitterness from Magnum, Cascade
pale ale is an homage to you and Chinook hops leave your palate
What our panel thought What our panel thought refreshed and liberated.
What our panel thought Aroma: Very mild nose with medium- Aroma: Intense tropical fruit notes
Aroma: A muddled citrus (orange intensity hops aroma but no prevailing with medium cattiness over musky and What our panel thought
and grapefruit) character with signs of character. Peach and strawberry contrast floral notes that complement the other Aroma: Mineral malt and strong
agemetallic, floral, and earthy. Some with forest aromaswoody hops with hops flavors. Toast and biscuit malt bready yeast aromas at the forefront
nice pine and resin notes as well, but some flowers in the undergrowth. character in the back with a hint of with a touch of peppery spice and
no malt or yeast character. Sweet malt notes of caramel or biscuit grassiness. esters of pear and peach. Hops are less
Flavor: Slighty sweet hops citrus notes balance notable esters. Flavor: The intense citrus and tropical pronounced than some examples and
contrast with a strong bitterness (for a Flavor: The fruity, estery character fruit flavor shine, while the malt does yield a fairly subdued nose overall.
pale ale) that lingers through the finish dominates the flavor. Pilsner malt enough to keep it interesting and bal- Flavor: A straightforward pale malt
and verges on IPA bitterness without comes through over time. Its moderately anced. Similar flavors as displayed in bill with strong bitterness and mellow
the sweetness for balance. Appears to hoppy and sweet with strong peach, the aroma. Bitterness is spot on. Juicy citrus hops notes. Hops flavors tend
have some age on it, so flavors may be apricot, and strawberry character. First hops flavors come through as resiny, toward grassy, with a bit of grapefruit
more subdued. All hops all the time taste is of stone fruit and refreshing dank, and a touch musty. Incredibly accentuating the bitterness. Very
bitter hops flavor lingers in the finish. light malt toast. Low bitterness and balanced and finishes clean, making it light bread flavors, some sweet esters
Overall: The hops in this beer are delicate toast work well. extremely drinkable. detract from crisp finish.
assertive and bitter for a pale ale. Overall: Its missing the typical burst Overall: A fine pale ale that showcases Overall: Delightfully restrained and
Enjoyable and tasty but the bitterness of hops, but is very drinkable and the hops very well while still providing drinkable beer on the extra pale end
overtakes the subtle character of a pleasantly sweet and fruity throughout. a malt counterweight to keep the beer of the category. Hops character is un-
pale ale. Has all the makings of a great This beer would go great with a holiday drinkable and engaging. A very proto- usual for pale ale, but fun, clean, and
APA in the hops profile, but the base mealenough body to stand up to typical pale thats put together well. Its enjoyable. Theres more sweetness in
beer lacks enough malt sweetness and food and enough sweetness to balance a great APA with tons of hops complexi- the aftertaste than the color indicates.
balance to make it work. Needs the bit- other flavors. Its complex but not ty beyond the typical citrusy varieties Crisp bitterness keeps me coming back
terness dialed back a bunch, especially overwhelming in hops character, almost common to most APAs. Very drinkable for another sip.
in the finish. delicate, yet easy to love. and extremely well-executed.

78 94 91 89
AROMA: 10 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 15 FLAVOR: 18 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 19
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 3
OVERALL: 8 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 93
| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

Founders Fremont Goose Island Grand Teton


Pale Ale Universale 312 Urban Sweetgrass
Pale Pale Ale APA

| ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.6% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 30 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 6% | IBU: 60 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
A testament to Cascade hops in a Universale Pale Ale offers a distinctive We are from the city that invented the Sweetgrass APA is a Pale Ale of
bottle, this medium-bodied pale ale has Northwest twist on the classic pale ale, skyscraper. We constructed our Urban distinction! 2009 Great American Beer
a citrus flavor and a floral hops aroma using a select blend of pale roasted Pale Ale on a balanced malt backbone, Festival Gold Medal winner in the Amer-
due to the aggressive addition of hops malt and Old World malts balanced with so the citrus hops aroma and crisp ican Pale Ale category, this crisp and
during fermentation. Youll notice a classic Northwest hops to achieve a flavor can stand tall. fragrant beer is hopped and dry hopped
slight malty sweetness with a balanced beer of rich malt flavor and hops spice. for a citrusy, resinous spiciness.
hops finish. What our panel thought
What our panel thought Aroma: Honey and navel-orange notes What our panel thought
What our panel thought Aroma: Enjoyable lemon and citrus up front with a low bready malt aroma. Aroma: Grassy, earthy, dank, and
Aroma: Hops are not assertive hops plus a light malt sweetness. The Sweet, like the initial mash-ingrainy resiny hops character gives way to
whats there smells floral, like spring- hops aroma is a bit restrained, but with notes of water crackers and toast citrus notes and mild biscuit notes
time. Notes of red apple and grass piney, floral, and grapefruit-rind notes but a low hops aroma. Big melanoidin from the malt. Piney and spicy hops
with a touch of telephone pole resin. come through. malt aromajust like a bock. character is quite a departure from
Moderate esters, mild hops, and light, Flavor: A slightly muted pale, with Flavor: Super rich malt character other pale ales.
toasty, biscuity malt notes. nice malt complexity and interest- with just enough bitterness to balance. Flavor: Grassy dank character carries
Flavor: Clean malt barely balanced ing hops flavors, but everything is Sweet and sunny with enough hops to through in the flavor. Unique hops
with crisp hops bitterness. Clean fer- restrained. Ripe, juicy grapefruit and keep the rich malt from being cloying. flavors, a bit like pine and passion fruit,
mentation produces light fruit esters, pine hops notes with a bit of musk and Nicely balanced APA with strong fruity give way to a crisp, dry finish. Malt back-
and malt is bready and fairly complex dankness. Missing some body, causing esters. Low-in-the-mix hops offer some bone helps support without interfering.
for style. Finishes fresh and inviting the hops bitterness to come off slightly floral and bitter notes despite being Similar spicy and floral hops notes in
pleasantly mild hops flavor and a clean astringent. Completely balanced with buried under raw grainy malt. Tastes a flavor as indicated by the aroma.
bitter finish that leans a bit toward the the bitterness trailing off immediately. bit like they used a decoction mash or a Overall: Slightly bitter, but a little
British style. Overall: A very well-put-together pale very long boil. more layered than some pales. Unique
Overall: Enjoyable if somewhat ale. The sweet citrus character came Overall: A bit sweet for the style, take on an APA with a nice variation on
malt-focused pale ale. Hops aroma through nicely, and the finish was but not so much as to keep you from the typical hops profile and a properly
could use a bump to bring it to the level greatexcellent flavor and pleasantly enjoying a full pint, as the bitterness supportive malt bill. This pale takes
of its contemporaries. Pretty well-bal- crisp. Extremely drinkable with the only backs up this big example of APA. An its own approach, with different hops
anced except for the odd apple ester. gripe being just a touch of body thin- enjoyable beer, but the malt character choices that allow it to stand out from
It could benefit from more hops, and ness. The well-crafted base beer uses is not expected from a pale aleits the crowd, while still delivering some
specific American-style hops, to kick up its dry finish and balance to accentuate as though someone added pale ale fruity hops character and a solid level
a more inviting aroma. Very drinkable. the ripe, juicy hops flavors. hopping to a bock. of bitterness.

84 92 88 88
AROMA: 9 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 10 AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 9

94 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


TOP
RATED

Half Acre Lagunitas Mad River Mission El


Daisy Cutter New DogTown Steelhead Conquistador
Pale Ale Pale Ale Extra Pale Ale Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.2% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 6.1% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.6% | IBU: 26 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 4.8% | IBU: 44 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
A West Coast Pale Ale chock-full of A big and malty pale ale with a A bright golden-hued ale of medium Pale golden color with soft lemon and
dank, aromatic hops. This ones a thirst-quenching hops flavor and a body with a spicy floral hops character melon esters and a bready malt body.
screamer; hoard it. crispy clean finish. and very mild bitterness. 2008 and Dry hopped with Centennial and experi-
2012 Gold Medal and 2010 and 2013 mental hops from the Yakima Valley.
What our panel thought What our panel thought Silver Medal winner at GABF in the
Aroma: Clean hops aroma evokes Aroma: Juicy, resiny hops prevail, Golden and Blonde Ale category. What our panel thought
everything from pitch, pine sap, faint with nice pine and grapefruit notes and Aroma: Medium hops intensity hits
tobacco, and resin to citrus, flowers, a touch of must. Malt and yeast are What our panel thought piney, leafy, and slight citrus notes.
and tangerine. A faint earthiness and mostly absent in aroma. Bright citrus Aroma: Earthy hops character is over- Esters of stone fruit include apricot
bready, cracker-like malt sits in the and cattiness play well together. shadowed by sweet candy with a slight notes. Clean ale yeast character sits
background. Esters are middle of the Flavor: Very juicy and citrusy vanilla, butterscotch, and graham atop caramel and candy sugar malt
road and complement the hops aroma with lemon, orange, and tangerine cracker charactersmells a bit like underneath, lending mild nose overall.
with notes of peach, biscuit, slight notesthe aroma promises, and the a Werthers Original candy. Its interest- Flavor: Moderately hoppy with a piney
banana cloviness. flavor over-delivers. The hops fruity ing, but slightly out of place for a pale. and leafy characterbalance tilts
Flavor: Very even malt/bitter balance sweetness carries through to the dry Hint of oxidization in the nose detracts hoppy over malty, but both are a bit
with low bread notes and plenty of and clean finish. The complex floral and from grapefruit and pine notes. one-dimensional. Clean and light malt
grassy and floral hops flavor coming spice-rack pungency in the hops flavor Flavor: Malt is definitely the most flavors eschew caramel or darker malt
through that wasnt apparent in the is beautiful and yet quite different from interesting thing about this beer, which to leave it bright. Finishes pretty dry
nose. Same fruits as nosepeach, what was suggested in the aroma. Very isnt always the best thing said about a sharp and bitter, ready for another
slight banana. Strong clean bitter hops carbonic and juicy yet dry. pale ale. Hops character is muted and sip. Bitterness lingers with a touch of
bite with a bit of resinous hops char- Overall: A bright, juicy APA that subtle but some notes of grapefruit smoky phenol.
acter. Malt is not as sweet as expected smells and tastes like fresh hops resin; creep through. Toffee and butter Overall: Overall an interesting beer
given the aroma. this beer beautifully showcases the character lead to a finish thats a little with a few characteristics Im not a fan
Overall: Super tasty. This well-crafted hops. Very, very enjoyable. Its quite sweet for a pale. of. Quite hoppy yet light in color and
pale ale showcases the brewers skill an unexpected and delicious beer with Overall: An odd pale ale, with minimal malt bodyas a result, the bitterness
at keeping everything in balance. The unique hops choices that allow it to hops depth but plenty of malt complex- is accentuated. An extra pale ale,
strong hops flavors contrast with the showcase and shine light onto new ity. A bit more classic in its approach as in a very light body that causes
maltier-than-typical backbone, pushing hops flavors. Its very carbonated and than some of the new pales, but still the bitterness to be somewhat over
this right to the line between pale ale dry, very tasty, and probably one of the tasty. The dialed-back bitterness helps emphasizedit could benefit from a
and IPA. But the result is delicious. best weve had. the malt character shinemaybe a bit bit more backbone to counter the hops
too sweet for the style, but pleasant. bitterness. This is a hops-lovers beer.

96 99 78 84
AROMA: 11 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 8 AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 20 FLAVOR: 20 FLAVOR: 16 FLAVOR: 16
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 3
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 8 OVERALL: 9

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 95
| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

EDITORS
PICK

New Holland Oskar Blues Schlafly Dry Sierra


Paleooza Dales Pale Hopped APA Nevada
Ale Pale Ale

| ABV: 4.4% | IBU: 33 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 6.5% | IBU: 65 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.9% | IBU: 50 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.6% | IBU: 38 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
Our classic Pale Ale, with Michi- This voluminously hopped mutha The pine/citrus aroma characteristic Pale Ales unique piney and grapefruit
gan-grown Cascade hops. Bright delivers a hoppy nose and asser- of American hops balances the full aromas from the use of whole-cone
hoppiness and pleasant aromatics are tive-but-balanced flavors of pale malts body provided by North American American hops have fascinated beer
framed with balancing sweetness of and citrusy floral hops from start to malts. After fermentation, the beer cir- drinkers for decades and made this
pale malts. finish. culates through a bed of Cascade and beer a classic. It is all natural, bottle-
Chinook hops, boosting the distinctive conditioned, and refreshingly bold.
What our panel thought What our panel thought hops aroma and flavor.
Aroma: Medium-low hops aroma is Aroma: Nice hops character and What our panel thought
full of citruslemon and tangerine. citrus sweetness with muted piney, What our panel thought Aroma: Light grapefruit, lemon, and
Fruity esters complement the complex earthy, and floral hops notes with just a Aroma: Citrus and pine with notes of floral notes with a slight grainy sweet-
and inviting hops aroma. First hit touch of malt sweetness in support. grapefruit peel and tangerines and no ness behind the hops aroma. A little
offered a touch of DMS, but resolved Flavor: Sweet clean hops citrus real malt or yeast character. Interest- restrained for style, but still pleasant.
into a pineapple-grapefruit mix. character with juicy grapefruit and ing, yet straightforward hops choices. Light sweet malt notes with a touch
Flavor: Highly carbonated, slightly orange complexities, though everything Nice and piney, with a light dankness of biscuit malt. Mostly clean with low
sharp carbonic bite up front. Balance is a bit restrained. Sweet, nutty, and and some pleasant citrus character. esters and just a hint of sulfur.
leans toward malt instead of hops but slightly fruity hops flavor balanced with Flavor: Grapefruit and orange rind Flavor: Nice up-front hops, balanced
flavor remains bright through the finish. pine and a higher bitterness that helps with a bit of pine and lemon sits atop a wonderfully with a soft malt character.
Grassy hops character with a bit of to mitigate the sweetness. clean fermentation and very little malt Citrus rind dominates hops flavors with
orange peel and moderate bitterness Overall: This beer was crafted well backbone. Finish is dry and a touch some floral notes. Restrained yeast
(but not very strong in the mix). Body is but the hops character is somewhat bitter but doesnt linger. Put together notes provide a subtle fruitiness that
thin and simple, and it finishes very dry muted and a bit too one-note. Its well with nice bright flavors, hops, and works well. Light and carbonicvery
with a lingering bitterness. an okay beer, though muted or a bit malt that play off each other nicely. drinkable. Definitely hops forward
Overall: There was a lot of subtle muddy, and more malty than some. Overall: Pretty classic example, with but not out of balance, with a slight
low-level complexity, but it lacks A tasty APA with a nice hops flavor just a bit more bitterness than is typi- lingering bitterness.
some of the bold qualities that make and supportive base beer and malt cal for the style, but not overwhelming Overall: This is your dads pale
a great APA, such as a dominant hops sweetness. A bit lacking in complexity and still enjoyable. Lots of citrus and alea pretty classic-style pale ale
character. Hops bitterness lingers in but still very tasty. a bit less hops complexity as a result, thats rounded out with no intense
a good way and its easy to drink with but great for the style. A nice bright sharp edges that hits straight down
a light and refreshing finish, but that beer with conventional hops, but well the middle. All ingredients play well
simplicity can be read as boring, executed and quite drinkable. Great together, but nothing really sticks out. A
depending on your point of view. example of the style. clean, quaffable pale ale.

82 84 94 88
AROMA: 10 AROMA: 10 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16 FLAVOR: 16 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 3 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 9

96 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


EDITORS
PICK

Ska Brewing Southern Stone Sweetwater


Euphoria Tier Live Pale Ale 420 Extra
Pale Ale Pale Ale

| ABV: 6.2% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 50 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.7% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
A big backbone of malt, with plenty Bottle Conditioned Pale Ale. Light Our Southern California take on the A tasty West Coast Style Pale Ale with
of caramel sweetness and just a touch copper color. Ample, fine carbonation. classic British ale. Deep amber in color, a stimulating hops character and a
of chocolate and toast. Its the epic Sweet malts, citrusy hops, pine aroma. this beers bold malt character is comple- crisp finish. Brewed with Munich, 40L,
grapefruit hops aroma and flavor, Hops dominate the flavor, then mingle mented by a judicious amount of hops, and 2-Row malts and Centennial and
provided by a huge dry hops addition with the malts. Dry finish. lending it a subtly enticing aroma. Cascade hops.
at the end of fermentation, that makes
this beer shine. What our panel thought What our panel thought What our panel thought
Aroma: Strong hops aroma of citrus Aroma: Delicate floral element almost Aroma: Clean citrusy hops aroma with
What our panel thought (intense orange rind and over-ripened makes up for lack of aromatic volume. a slight malt sweetness. Woody, floral
Aroma: Toasty malt and citrus/ orange flesh) and pine. Malt biscuit Very faint nose, with mild apricot, hops with a light citrus edge evoke or-
grassy hops character, though overall notes are just enough to hold up the peach, and citrus. Clean yeast aromatics. ange peel, mild vanilla, and black pepper.
relatively subdued for a pale ale. Some hops profile (but not much more). Some Malt has a biscuit character, verging Light bready malt notes in the back.
malt complexity can be parsed out in tangerine and catty notes and bright, on caramel and dark bread with a bit of Grapefruit comes out as it warms. Nutty
the aromafresh bread crust, slight juicy lemon notes up front with a bit of orange-blossom honey. yeast aromas and spicy phenolic notes.
caramel. Hops are a bit subdued but pine and grapefruit. Flavor: Rich bread and caramel/burnt Flavor: Slightly bready malt bill
still present, coming through as citrus. Flavor: Hops jump in at the front sugar malt flavors underpin a slightly balanced to style by classic West Coast
Flavor: Malt sweetness balances well and are sweet and juicy to the finish. woody, resinous, and crisp hops flavor citrusy hops. Spicy, almost Belgian phe-
with the hops. The hops come through The malt character only stands behind thats much more assertive than the nolic yeast character with a light wheat
more in the end with some bright citrus to showcase these hops. Wonderful aroma. Bitterness hides underneath tartness, decent floral hops flavor
notes and a little grass-like character intense sweet orange and lemon the malt richness, giving support under the spice, pineapple. Peach and
as well. Finishes slightly bitter but still hops notes contrast with a perfectly without lingering in the finish. Carb and cranberry notes. Lingering bitterness in
clean. Hops flavor are much brighter balanced bitterness set against slight balance are spot on. finish without harshness.
than the aroma suggestedmore juicy, malty sweetness. Complex hops flavors Overall: A rich full-bodied pale ale Overall: Good example of a West
tropical fruit flavors than in the aroma. are accentuated by the dry finish of the that seems like a perfect beer to drink Coast pale ale in terms of hops character
Overall: A more malt-forward pale beer, without being too bitter. in a basement pub. Lots of English and overall balance. Leans toward the
ale that still showcases some nice Overall: This is a refreshing and notes (sweeter, fuller body, woody phenolic character of a Belgian pale
citrus hops character. A bit more malty delicious pale ale put together very hops), but with an American level of ale, but very tasty. Caramel sweetness
and sweet than is currently in vogue wellan assertive hops aroma and bitterness. Clean fermentation, big and may be a bit high for style, but the
for APAs. A delicious beer that has a flavor knocks you out with orange and interesting malt character. A well- layers of malt and ester flavors add in-
wonderful flavor with a mild aroma. tangerine. Cleverly crafted to showcase designed APA that needs a bit more terest. A full-flavored, excellent choice
bright and exciting hops flavors. hops on the aroma. to pair with richer dinners.

85 91 88 93
AROMA: 10 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 10 AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 18 FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 8 OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 97
| AMERICAN PALE ALES |

Terrapin Tregs Uinta WYLD Upslope


Rye Pale Ale Pale Ale Extra Pale Ale Pale Ale

| ABV: 5.5% | IBU: 35 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.4% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 4% | IBU: 29 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.8% | IBU: 36 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
By using an exact amount of rye, the Tregs Pale Ale is an American-style Aggressively dry hopped to showcase This clear, crisp, dry pale ale is our
Rye Pale Ale acquires its signature taste. Pale Ale that is aggressively hopped with fresh hops flavors and aromas. Begins signature beer, the one that started
Made with five varieties of hops and a Northwest Cascades and balanced with with slight malt flavor with a subtle it all! Its refreshing characteristics
generous amount of specialty malts, it crystal malts to create a hoppy, crisp, sweetness. Hops character pounces and signature dry finish blend smooth
offers a complex flavor and aroma that is copper-colored ale. Simple and classic, with citrus and pine notes. Finishes dry malt flavors with a unique spicy hops
both aggressive and well-balanced. yet full-flavored and sessionable. with an infusion of sweet hoppiness. bitterness.

What our panel thought What our panel thought What our panel thought What our panel thought
Aroma: Piney and citrusy hops notes Aroma: Green onion, savory, spicy Aroma: Huge tangerine raw hops aroma, Aroma: Strong lemon on the nose with
up front work well with the malt spici- lemongrass on the nose with low malt with notes of resin, grainy malt, and sweet citrus and light biscuit malt.
ness. A touch of malt sweetness comes aromatics and medium esters that low stone-fruit fermentation aromatics. Slight, yet interesting mineral character
through, maybe with a hint of caramel. complement the hops. Esters pull out Very strong hops aromapiney, res- and a nice Smarties candy aroma. Hops
Medium yeast notes of plum and apple notes of pineapple, kiwi, and peaches inous, citrus rind, slightly grassy. Light are a bit subdued but come through as
cider. Pine and citrus hops give it a and cream oatmeal. clean pale malt aromas. pine and resin. A touch of malt sweet-
slightly earthy character. Flavor: Malt sugary sweetness peek- Flavor: Perfectly balanced malt and ness follows the hops notes.
Flavor: A bit more subdued on hops ing out from behind some intriguing bitterness. The raw hops flavors are a Flavor: A very unique grape-juice-like
flavor than most APAs, with the hops hops flavorsgreen onion, tama- bit over-the-top but fun. Low caramel flavor with some intense gooseberry
flavors competing a bit with rye. This rind, and fenugreek. This is a weird, notes in the finish keep it interesting and tart cherry notes. Similar mineral
pale doesnt make the hops the star of well-balanced, not-a-typical-APA beer. and refreshing. Heavy hops flavor, profile in the aroma. A mix of citrusy
the show; its more a bit player behind Malt is fairly simple with some subtle again very resinous, with that fresh- hops and a touch of malt sweetness
an intriguing maltiness with bread crust, biscuity undertones. Finishes clean. hops-just-dropped-into-the-boil smell. and perhaps even a perception of
caramel, and biscuit notes. Earthy and Overall: VERY interesting aromas and Overall: Not sure I could drink very sweetness from the hops (maybe
spiced notes of rye add complexity. flavors going on. This tastes a bit like much of ithops character seems over- tropical fruit) work to balance this one
Overall: The rye malt layer is great, an Asian curry dishIm enjoying it, ly raw and a bit astringent in the finish. out, both in flavor and finish.
but might work better with more spicy but its definitely unique! They hit the Its a fun beer with no process flaws Overall: A unique beer with some
hops, such as Chinook, since the sweet spot between malty and bitter and a nice recipea bit like chewing very interesting and new hops flavors,
citrusy hops dont seem to play as well and deliver great balance. Light esters on hops cones, but I like the hops flavor though restrained, that work well. The
with the rye. Enjoyablea different complement overall flavors without in the finish. Beer is clean and well bal- hops character is complex and unique
take on APA. The spice and malt demanding attention. Nose is weak for anced for an APA, but a slightly higher with just enough malt backbone to
character blend well with the hops. the style, but the unique notes draw carbonation level would accentuate the keep things balanced with a distinct
Very drinkable. you in. Balance is nicely executed. hoppiness and clean up the finish. character in the hops selection.

83 91 91 84
AROMA: 10 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 12 AROMA: 11
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 16 FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5
OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10

98 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


| ENGLISH PALE ALES |

Victory Firestone Full Sail Great Divide


Headwaters Walker DBA Pale Ale Denver Pale
Pale Ale Ale

| ABV: 5.1% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5% | IBU: 30 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.5% | IBU: N/A | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
This firmly crisp and aromatically arous- DBA opens with a biscuity toasted malt Our English Pale Ale is not a West DPA is a world-renowned classic pale
ing pale ale integrates a softly supportive aroma and a hint of oak and vanilla. Pale Coast hoppy pale ale, but more malt ale with a malty middle and an equally
malt base that underlies streams of herb- malts create a smooth malty middle with forward. There is a toasty caramel from hearty complement of hops aroma,
al hops complexity. Shifting impressions ribbons of caramel, English toffee, and the malts, and it finishes with a touch flavor, and bitterness.
of lemon aroma and flavor intermingle toasted oak. A tribute to English pales of earthy hops.
with leafy, tea-like earthiness. traditionally fermented in cask. What our panel thought
What our panel thought Aroma: Slight earthy and herbal hops
What our panel thought What our panel thought Aroma: Fruity and bready, well-blend- notes, but yeasty esters quickly come
Aroma: Floral hops aroma meets Aroma: Spicy hops aroma is very ed and slightly sweet. Hops are mostly out to dominate the aroma. Apple cider,
medium sweet malt with biscuit notes herbal and almost medicinal, with absent, adding just a touch of spicy overripe pear, slight mustiness of a
verging on caramel. Light esters of pear some dark cherry esters. Nice sweet background. Esters are moderately fallen apple set out in the sun too long.
or peach and very subdued citrus notes caramel and toffee malt aroma. Hops assertive, with notes of plums or sweet A mild caramel malt note. As it warms,
sit atop tasty honey-bread crust malt. aroma is subdued, floral and earthy. cherry. Sweet, orangey hops. a slight cheese-rind aroma emerges.
Flavor: Full bodied with a sweeter malt Flavor: The hops character in this Flavor: Big malty caramel burnt Flavor: The hops come through with
finish and hops bitterness to match the beer is earthy, woody, a bit spicy, and sugar up front, balanced with a blunt nice earthy and spiced character and
body. Moderate hops flavorpeach, floral, with mild bitternessmore than bitter and nice grassy hops flavor. Very moderate bitterness. Smooth round
pear, some cherry, and pine, with a the nose would suggest. Notes of cara- British in character and effect. Rich malt flavors, caramel and dark crystal
proper bitter finish. Initial flavor is mel and toffee come through well with melanoidin finishoverly complex for notes with a nice clean finish for an
much more simple than aromatics a light body. Hops flavors clash with the the style but tasty. Hops bitterness has English pale. Mid-level hops bitterness
suggesta good surprise. Lovely. fruity yeast esters, though as it warms a hard time contending with the malt. balances well with the malt body. There
Overall: Well-crafted, balanced pale these work better together. Bitterness Malt is bready with caramel and strong is a noticeable amount of herbal and
ale. Hops flavor lingers into the after- is a little low for the style, allowing the crystal notes. Lightly bitter finish. floral hops flavor, but they arent allowed
taste with juicy citrus notes and fresh malt to linger a little too long. Overall: Enough malt throughout to to shine behind the very British yeast
pine boughs. Right down the center Overall: Nice example of the style. slightly cover up the hops, especially in character.
of the style, an archetypal example. A decent English pale ale, but hops the aroma. A touch sweet throughout, Overall: Enjoyable pale ale. The
Carb makes the hops pop, and then the choices dont quite harmonize perfectly but the finish is bitter enough to clear malt character was nice and provided
bitterness lingers. Great West Coast with the malt complexity and yeast most of the sweetness off. Woody hops some richness without overtaking the
hops characternicely balanced beer. esters. Plenty of hops to keep things flavors in background. Its definitely beer. The earthy spiced hops were
Stylewise it may be a bit bitter overall, interestingperhaps more than would a British Pale with the volume of malt showcased well. Sweet malt aroma
but the malt complexity backs it up well. usually be found in Englandthis is sweet and caramel. But good regard- is appropriate for EPA. Nice beer for
an American take on a British style. lessnice yum factor. enjoying by a fire reading a good book.

96 87 83 85
AROMA: 12 AROMA: 10 AROMA: 10 AROMA: 9
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 17 FLAVOR: 16 FLAVOR: 17
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 9 OVERALL: 9

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 99
| ENGLISH PALE ALES |

TOP EDITORS
RATED PICK

Heavy Seas Odell Brewing Samuel Smith Schlafly


Powder 5 Barrel Pale Organic Pale Pale Ale
Monkey Ale Ale

| ABV: 4.8% | IBU: 29 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5.2% | IBU: 36 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 5% | IBU: 31 | SRM: N/A | | ABV: 4.4% | IBU: 25 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says What the brewer says
A traditional English-style pale ale We treat 5 Barrel Pale Ale to an infu- A classic malt-accented, copper-colored A smooth, balanced, copper-colored
with our own East Coast twist: UK Fug- sion of fresh whole hops flowers in the pale ale in which subtle fruity esters from session beer with mildly spiced flavor
gles and Goldings hops dominate the hops back and the fermentor, as well the Samuel Smith yeast strain interact and aroma from the East Kent Goldings
flavor but it has subtle notes of citrus as four hops additions during the kettle with caramel flavors (from organic hops. The bready, lightly caramel malt
and flower from Cascade hops. Distinct boil. We like how this gives the beer a crystal malt) and fresh hops. complements the hint of fruitiness
bitterness and a slight malt sweetness fresh, lively flavor and aroma. contributed by the London Ale yeast.
characterize the taste. What our panel thought
What our panel thought Aroma: Sweet caramel, toast, and What our panel thought
What our panel thought Aroma: Big hops aroma with a mix toffee notes with a floral and earthy Aroma: A slight sourdough bread note
Aroma: An interesting mix of hops and of earthy/floral notes and an overlay hops character. Esters evoke fresh-cut up front, with mild floral, herbal, and
malt that competes for attention. Nice of citrus. Perhaps its dry hopped with Red Delicious apples or an orange grove spicy hops character underneath. Malt is
biscuit and bread-crust malt notes American variety? Very floral in the after the rain. Not much hops aroma, reminiscent of toasted graham crackers
with an interesting pungent orange nose with some slight biscuit toast but other components more than make with Bit-o-Honey candy-sweet notes.
marmalade and floral lavender hops character in the back. up for its absence. Flavor: This beer definitely leans
character with some light fruity esters. Flavor: Hop-tastic initial blast of Flavor: Caramel and toasty malt more toward the malt than the hops.
Flavor: A curious and delicious flavor races ahead of the malt. Medi- sweetness with a touch of floral and Interesting malt notesbread crust,
balance of bready maltiness with um-high carbonation accentuates hops spiced hops. That blend of fruity yeast graham cracker, and some biscuit.
light toffee and caramel notes and an impact. Hops are floral and earthy, with esters plays off the delicious malt Hops flavors of citrus and orange are
assertive bread-crust flavor. The fruity some sweet citrus fruit notes as well. profileapple and pear flavors work almost absent with just enough bit-
and floral hops flavors work perfectly Bitterness is well-balanced against wonderfully with the bread crust. Lin- terness to provide some balance. Crisp
with the malt, and just a touch of yeast a medium body of complex malt, with gering bitterness is just a touch harsh. and carbonic with a dry finish.
esters add to the complexity. bread crust, biscuits and jam, and light Overall: Very enjoyable malt-forward Overall: Enjoyable, although the malt
Overall: An enjoyable beertastes caramel. pale ale with subtle floral and earthy needs definition to shine through. Hops
like an East Coast pub ale with Ring- Overall: Tasty, juicy, hops-focused hops. The bold fruit flavors and sweet play a supporting rolethis is more
wood yeast. The malt body provides a pale ale. Medium malt level allows malt make this both a warming and re- like an English bitter or even a slightly
nice counterpoint to the spicy and earthy for high hops bitterness without freshing treat. Finishes medium sweet more flavorful mild than a true EPA.
hops character. An old-school American harshness. A well-executed and with some tartness in the aftertaste. Good balance of malt sweetness and
interpretation of British pub ales that enjoyable beer where the hops and malt Tastes like caramel applesa won- hops character that did not seem to
encompasses all of those rich English character come together and blend derfully complex and tasty beer with get in the way of each other. Excellent
malt flavorsbread crust, biscuit, and well. A tasty hybrid of American and flavors not often found in this style. example of an EPAvery enjoyable
toast with jam. Overall very nice. English character. Unusual, well done, and welcomed. with an appropriate level of bitterness.

95 93 93 88
AROMA: 11 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 11 AROMA: 10
APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3 APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 19 FLAVOR: 18
MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 5 MOUTHFEEL: 4 MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10 OVERALL: 10

100 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


INSIDE CB&B

Editors Picks
The review scores in this (and every) issue of Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine are a result of blind tasting by our in-
dependent panel (staff do not participate in the scoring of the beers). But our editorial team tastes the same beers,
and we have our own opinions of the brews. Most of the time, those opinions coincide with the review panel, but
occasionally they diverge, so weve used the Editors Pick flags on the reviews in conjunction with this sidebar to
point out some of our editors favorites from this issue.

Sierra Nevada New Holland


Pale Ale Paleooza
At the brewers after-party at While the review panel
the Shelton Brothers Festival searched for bolder notes in
last October, we watched a New Hollands Paleooza, the
room full of some of the most editorial team enjoyed the
celebrated brewers in the subtle berry notes from the
world clean the bar out of Michigan-grown Cascade
the venerable Sierra Nevada hops. It hints at the unique
Pale Ale. It may not be the juicy fruit flavors of 3 Floyds
sexiest pale, but it was one of Yum Yum, but with a subtle
the very first to celebrate U.S. malt profile thats more com-
hops varieties, and Sierra Ne- forting than crisp.
Summit vadas focus on consistency
and quality has earned them
Extra Pale Ale respect from the best of their
peers. Its the standard by
which all others are judged.

| ABV: 5.2% | IBU: 45 | SRM: N/A |

What the brewer says Southern Tier Samuel Smith


Summit EPA has been gracing the pint Live Organic Pale Ale
glasses of serious brew lovers since Bottle-conditioned and We cut our teeth on bottles
bright, Southern Tier Live of Samuel Smith Oatmeal
1986. Bronze color. Gold-medal-
became a favorite in the Craft Stout in the mid-90s when
winning flavor. With caramel, biscuity Beer & Brewing Magazine it was one of the few widely
malts balanced with an earthy hops office fridge as we put this available, but recent experi-
bite and juicy citrus. issue together. With a perfect ences with the brand left us
balance of crisp malt and wishing they would take a
What our panel thought well-defined contemporary few more steps to appeal to
citrus hops profile, Live modern taste buds. Organic
Aroma: Pleasant floral aroma, almost
never feels like its trying too Pale Ale took us by surprise
like honeysuckle. Subtle sweet orange hardthe elements play well with strong fruit flavors driven
marmalade notes. A light biscuit malt together, and the dry finish by yeast esters working
undertone, with slight toast and caramel sets up each new sip. together with the hops. In
malt notes as well. Esters are medium- contrast to many beers in the
high and fruity verging on tropical. style, its a great winter-
Flavor: Assertive bitterness up front season pale ale.
that mellows with a nice malt bread-
line. Hops flavor takes a little work
to discern behind the bitterness and
malt, but floral character remains. The Lagunitas 3 Floyds Yum
beer finishes and lingers on the tongue Born Yesterday Yum Pale Ale
with some biscuit malt sweetness with
Pale Ale Theres that moment when
the floral hops notes. Very dry with This bottle from Lagunitas you crack open a beer youve
medium-high carbonation. arrived after our review never had before, and the fla-
Overall: Enjoyable EPA with a nice panels for the issue wrapped vors hit you in a rush thats a
showcase of hops and a light body up, but that didnt stop mix of excitement, confusion,
the team from enjoying and wonderment. So it is with
at the base. Finishes medium dry. An Yum Yum, where 3 Floyds
the exquisite fresh hops
American take on EPAone probably has extended its mastery of
profile showcased by Born
would not find a beer this bitter very Yesterday. At 7.5% ABV, its at aroma and flavor hops deep-
often in England. A tasty and complex the very top of what could be er into the pale ale territory
beer that showcases this hops profile considered an imperial pale with this beer that evokes
quite nicely. ale, but the very light body strawberries, melon, and
the most wild fruit character

92
and balanced bitterness let
AROMA: 11 the aroma and flavors hops weve enjoyed since that last
APPEARANCE: 3
FLAVOR: 18 push forward. bottle of Fantme.
MOUTHFEEL: 4
OVERALL: 10

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 101
ASK THE EXPERTS

Belgian
Yeast Strains
Our Ask the Experts column poses your homebrewing questions
to industry experts. In this issues column, we asked Phil Leinhart,
brewmaster at Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, New York, for some
advice on Belgian yeast strains.

A CRAFT BEER & BREWING READER ture, but all other things being equal,
recently asked us the following question: attenuation is a good metric with which to
compare two yeast strains. All yeasts are
What are the differences between the vari- different, but as a general rule, Belgian
ous Belgian yeast strains? How do I choose strains tend to be big attenuators relative
the right one? to other broad classes of yeast.
Flocculation refers to a yeast strains ten-
With the vast number of yeast strains dency to clump together and drop out of
available to todays homebrewer, its suspension. Highly flocculent yeast cells
easy to get confused. Belgian yeasts are readily fall to the bottom of a fermentation
incredibly diverse. The best place to start vessel at the end of fermentation, leaving
is to identify the technical performance behind brilliantly clear beer. Less floccu-
characteristics you want for your home- lent yeast, on the other hand, may remain
brew: things such as optimal fermentation in suspension even after fermentation
temperature, attentuation, and floccula- has come to an end. While Belgian strains
tion, says Leinhart. tend to be mildly to moderately flocculent,
A yeasts optimal fermentation tempera- this certainly isnt a rule.
ture is actually a range of temperatures We ferment Brewery Ommegangs
at which that yeast strain performs best. Glimmerglass, a Belgian saison, with a
Aiming for a temperature below this range very flocculent yeast strain, notes Lein-
may stall the fermentation, while ferment- hart. The cells readily clump together
ing substantially above the temperature into a slurry on the bottom of the fermen-
range can encourage the yeast to create tation tanks.
unwanted flavors and aromas. Belgian Flocculation and attenuation are loosely
yeast strains tend to work well at typical ale correlated in that yeast cells that remain
temperatures, 6268F (1620C), but some suspended are more likely to fully ferment
saison strains can tolerate temperatures than yeast cells that drop out. The rela-
approaching 100F (38C)! tionship isnt absolute, but its a good rule
Attenuation is a value that indicates the of thumb.
percentage of available wort sugars a yeast To compare these technical specifica-
strain is likely to ferment. Highly attenua- tions, Leinhart recommends contacting
tive strains can eat through 90 percent or major yeast suppliers such as White Labs,
more of the available sugars, while low- Wyeast, and the Brewing Science Institute.
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

attenuating yeasts might barely get These microbiology labs publish yeast per-
through 60 percent. Attenuation also formance characteristics on their websites
depends on other factors, such as wort and are always happy to answer questions
composition and fermentation tempera- about every brewers favorite microbe.

102 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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BEERANDBREWING.COM | 103
| ASK THE EXPERTS |

While published profiles can offer some clues


to the unique flavors and aromas a particular
strain will lend, a yeasts complex interaction
with wort composition, hops aromatics, and
even fermentor geometry means that some
trial and error is often in order.

Yeast selection, of course, isnt just about beer drinkers instantly recognize as
numbers. Stylistic considerations are also Belgian. Start with WLP500 Monas-
important, and the difference between a tery Ale (formerly Trappist Ale) and
good beer and a great one can easily come WLP530 Abbey Ale from White Labs or
down to yeast selection. While published 1214 Belgian Abbey and 3787 Trappist
profiles can offer some clues to the unique High Gravity from Wyeast to get a feel
flavors and aromas a particular strain will for what you like and then try some of
lend, a yeasts complex interaction with the other strains.
wort composition, hops aromatics, and Belgian Strong Ale yeasts can tolerate
even fermentor geometry means that the high alcohol of golden and dark
some trial and error is often in order. strong ales. White Labs WLP570 Belgian
You just have to practice and discover what Golden Ale and Wyeast 1388 Belgian
works best for you, Leinhart emphasizes. Strong Ale are classics, but Abbey and
Keep in mind that Belgian is a broad term Trappist strains can turn out great exam-
that includes a great number of distinct ples as well.
styles and that some strains are best suited Saison strains include a spicy compo-
to certain kinds of beer. Belgian saison, for nent that can come across as peppery
example, showcases a spicy phenolic char- and clove-like. They also tend to leave
acter (think cloves and pepper) that is large- a distinctive dry tartness. White Labs
ly a by-product of yeast selection (some WLP565 Belgian Saison I and Wyeast
saisons are actually spiced, but this need 3724 Belgian Saison are reported to
not be the case). Fermenting a tripel with have been sourced from Brasserie
the same strain would no doubt produce Dupont, but both are prone to stalling
an excellent ale, but it probably wouldnt at around 1.035. Raising the fermen-
turn out a classic tripel. tation temperature to as high as 95F
Belgian pale ale (See Pales in Com- (35C) can get you over the hump, or try
parison, page 74) is fermented with a Wyeast 3711 French Saison, which is so
relatively clean yeast strain that shares aggressive that you might think it will
more similarities with Chico (American ferment through the carboy itself.
and California ale) and lager yeasts than it Witbier yeast offers up a tart, fruity
does with abbey-style varieties. One could flavor that makes it the ideal accom-
ferment any ale with such a strain, but paniment to the coriander and citrus
the expected esters wont present in the typically found in Belgian whites.
desired amounts for, say, a wit. Classic strains for that refreshing,
We can divide Belgian yeasts into a few thirst-quenching characteristic include
categories, according to the beer styles for White Labs WLP400 Belgian Wit and
which theyre best suited. Wyeast 3944 Belgian Witbier.

Belgian pale ale strains are fairly neutral There are of course, plenty of other
and can be hard to find. White Labs strains, including any number of lambic
WLP515 Antwerp Ale and Wyeast 3655- and sour blends, but starting out with
PC Belgian Schelde Ale, available as one of these basic options will place you
seasonal strains, are both good choices. squarely on the path to Belgian bliss.
In the absence of these, a relatively clean
American-ale strain is a good choice. If you have a question for the experts, email
Abbey and Trappist strains deliver us at [email protected] or visit our
the signature fruity esters and spicy website at www.beerandbrewing.com.
phenols that characterize what most

104 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


register with code: cbbm15 GO TO ncbshow.com
BREW TEST
Digital Hydrometers & Refractometers
A new generation of digital tools makes reading gravity more precise and easier than
ever. Our test lab tried twoThe STM eDrometer and the Misco Digital Refractometer
to find out just how well they work for pro brewers and homebrewers alike.

STM Instruments eDrometer Misco Palm Abbe Refractometer


What it is What it is
An affordable accurate digital hydrometer that offers a wide A convenient, handheld digital refractometer with multiple pur-
variety of measurements (standard gravity, density, Brix, Plato, chasing options depending on the measurement scales needed.
Baume, potential alcohol, and more) with built-in temperature Test unit included Brix, percentage of dissolved sugars, gravity,
compensation in an easy-to-clean form factor. and propylene glycol freeze point.

Test lab notes Test lab notes


PROS: Our testers put the eDrometer through its paces and PROS: The Misco unit is useful in both commercial and home-
found that it offers quick measurement response time, very brew environments, with the tiny sample size being ideal for
precise measurements (measures to the thousandth of a point), homebrew-scale batches. It delivers immediate results (5 seconds
and a wide range of units of measure to choose from (its useful on average), and units can be purchased with up to five separate
for everything from brewing to wine making to distilling). Testers measurement scales (pricing depends on the number of scales
were very happy that the unit measures actual density, not just one needs). For commercial breweries, the option to include
refraction. Nine-volt battery power makes it portable, yet the base measurements such as glycol freeze point adds another layer of
is stable and self-supporting. It offers digital performance for a utility to the device. It proved accurate and consistent when mea-
fraction of the price of typical commercial units. sured against other calibrated devices. Handheld device is easy to
CONS: Our testers found that the unit does take some time to move around a commercial environment.
stabilize if you move it from a warmer to a colder environment CONS: Because its a refractometer, you will need to use a brewing
(or vice versa), and it can yield slightly variable results if ambient calculator to determine gravity once fermentation begins. Only the
temperatures fluctuate. The sample size, while significantly small- manufacturer can install additional scales.
er than what an analog hydrometer test jar requires, is roughly
25mla larger sample than a refractometer requires. Verdict
The Misco PA203X is clearly designed for industrial use, and per-
Verdict forms well at a fraction of the cost of other commercial units. Its
The eDrometer is a nice piece of technology, derived from an a highly accurate refractometer, and multiple independent scales
expired Anton-Paar patent and can fully replace a hydrometer provide a variety of uses around a commercial brewery. Since its
as a homebrew, lab, or brewery tool. Its very slight variability in not truly a hydrometer, its most useful before fermentation or for
results is a drawback, but its worth considering if it will be set up cases that dont require a physical measurement of density.
PHOTOS: MATT GRAVES

in a stationary location.
Details
Details Price ranges from $335 (for a unit that measures only Brix) to
$395. Available online at stm-instrument.com. $535 for the tested unit. Available online at misco.com.

106 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


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| BREWING GLOSSARY |

Brewing A-Z
-A- autolysis >> self-digestion and cold break >> rapid precipitation of proteins
disintegration of yeast cells that can cause that occurs when the wort is rapidly chilled
acetic >> vinegary aroma caused by acetic
off-flavors if beer isnt racked from dead before pitching the yeast.
acid bacteria; common in sour beers.
yeast after primary fermentation. coolship >> a large shallow pan used to cool
acetaldehyde >> chemical present in beer
wort using outside air temperature. During
that has the aroma and flavor of fresh-cut
-B- the cooling process, naturally occurring
green apples or green leaves.
yeast from the air inoculates the wort.
acid >> a pH value between 1 and 7. Balling >> one of three units that are used
Then the cooled wort is transferred into
acrospire >> the barley shoot that develops as the standard to describe the amount of
fermentors.
during germination and malting. available extract as a weight percentage of
conditioning >> a term for secondary
adjunct >> any non-enzymatic fermentable cane sugar in solution.
fermentation, in which the beer matures.
material that will feed the yeast. Common barley >> cereal grain, member of the genus
cone >> the part of the hops plant used in
examples are rice, corn, refined sugar, raw Hordeum. Malted barley is the primary
brewing.
wheat, flaked barley, and syrup. ingredient in beer.
corn sugar >> dextrose. Sometimes added
aerobic >> a process that occurs in the barrel >> standard unit in commercial
as an adjunct in beer to raise alcohol
presence of oxygen. brewing. A U.S. barrel is 31.5 gallons; a
percentage and lighten the color of the beer.
aftertaste >> the flavor that lingers after British barrel is 43.2 U.S. gallons.
beer leaves the mouth. Baum >> hydrometer scale, developed by
-D-
aldehyde >> a chemical precursor to the French chemist Antoine Baum, used to
alcohol. In some situations, alcohol can be measure the specific gravity of liquids. decoction >> a mashing technique that
oxidized to aldehydes, creating off-flavors. beerstone >> a hard brown scale (calcium involves removing some of the mash to
ale >> a beer brewed using a top-fermenting oxalate) that deposits on fermentation another pot, boiling it, then returning it to
yeast at 6075F (1524C) for a relatively equipment. the mash tun to raise the temperature.
short time (23 weeks). The ale family beta glucans >> a group of gums that are dextrin >> a complex sugar molecule,
includes pale, amber/red, strong, and dark. produced in the malting process and can, not normally fermentable by yeast, that
aleurone layer >> the outermost layer of if present in excess, cause problems with contributes to body in beer.
the endosperm of a barley grain, containing runoff and fermentation. diacetyl >> a powerful flavor chemical with
enzymes. biotin >> one of the B-complex vitamins the aroma of butter or butterscotch.
alkaline >> a pH value between 7 and 14. found in yeast. diastase >> an enzyme complex in barley
alpha acid >> a class of chemical blow-off tube >> a tube used during and malt that is responsible for the
compounds found in hop cones resin vigorous fermentation to allow the release of conversion of starch into sugars during the
glands that is the source of hop bitterness. CO2 and excess fermentation material. mashing process.
alpha acid unit (AAU) >> a homebrewing Brettanomyces >> colloquially referred to dimethyl sulfide (DMS) >> a powerful
measurement of hops that is calculated by as Brett, a genus of yeast sometimes used flavor chemical found in beer, with the
multiplying the percent alpha acid of the in brewing. In a glucose-rich environment, it aroma of cooked corn or cabbage.
hops by the number of ounces of hops. produces acetic acid. dough-in rest >> the process of mixing the
American Society of Brewing Chemists crushed malt with water in the beginning of
(ASBC) >> the organization that sets -C- the mash operation.
standards and test methods for brewing dry-hopping >> adding hops directly to
calcium >> mineral ion important in
materials and processes. the fermenter at the end of fermentation to
brewing-water chemistry.
amino acids >> a group of complex organic increase hop aroma without adding bitterness.
caryophyllene >> one of four primary
chemicals that form the building blocks of
essential hop oils. Also found in basil,
protein. -E-
caraway, cloves, oregano, and pepper.
amylase >> an enzyme group that converts
chill haze >> cloudy protein residue that endosperm >> the starchy middle of a
starch to sugar.
precipitates when beer is chilled but re- barley grain that is the source of fermentable
attenuation >> the degree to which the
dissloves as the beer warms up. material for brewing.
fermentation process converts residual
citronellol >> a monoterpene alcohol that is enzymes >> proteins that act as catalysts for
sugars to alcohol and CO2.
primarily biotransformed by yeast from geraniol most reactions crucial to brewing, including
anaerobic >> a process that occurs in the
when high levels of linalool are present. starch conversion and yeast metabolism.
absence of oxygen.

108 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


esters >> aromatic compounds formed from glucose >> corn sugar or dextrose, the most fermenting young beer is added to beer
yeasts complete oxidation of various alcohols common type of sugar. during secondary fermentation.
and responsible for most fruity aromas in beer. gravity (specific gravity) >> describes the
ethanol >> the type of alcohol found in beer, concentration or density of malt sugar in the -L-
formed by yeast from malt sugars. wort. lactic acid >> a tart, sour acid that is a by-
ethyl acetate >> a common ester in beer. grist >> ground grain ready for brewing. product of Lactobacillus.
European Brewing Convention (EBC) Lactobacillus >> large genus of bacteria.
>> Most commonly encountered as a term -H- Some species are used in the production of
applied to malt color. EBC is about twice yogurt, sauerkraut, pickles, and some beers.
hardness >> a term indicating the presence
Lovibond/SRM. lactose >> an unfermentable sugar that comes
of water mineral levels.
European Bitterness Unit (EBU) >> from milk. Traditionally used in milk stout.
hops >> a climbing vine of the
equivalent to International Bittering Unit lag time >> adaptation phase after the yeast
Cannabacinae family, whose cones
(IBU). is pitched during which the yeast begins a
are used to give beer its bitterness and
extract >> concentrated wort in dry or syrup period of rapid aerobic growth.
characteristic aroma.
form. lager >> a beer brewed with a bottom-
hopback >> a sealed container that is filled
with whole hops and inserted in line as fermenting yeast between 4555F (713C)
-F- and given 46 weeks to ferment. The lager
the wort is transferred into the fermenter.
farnesene >> one of four primary essential The hops add aroma and act as a filter for family includes light, pilsner, amber, bock,
hops oils. Although farnesene makes up a removing the break material. and dark.
very low percentage of total oil in most hop hot break >> (also known as hot trub) the lautering >> a process in which the mash
varieties, it is considered significant because rapid coagulation of proteins and tannins is separated into the liquid wort and the
it makes up a substantial proportion of some that forms a brown scum on top of the wort residual grain.
noble hops. as the boil begins. lauter tun >> traditional vessel used to
fatty acid >> among the secondary elements humulene >> one of the chemicals that give separate the wort from the residual grains.
that are produced during fermentation and hops their characteristic aroma. lightstruck >> a skunky off-flavor in beer
create much of a beers flavor. husk >> the outer covering of barley or other that develops from exposure to short-
fermentation >> yeasts biochemical process grains. wavelength light.
involving the metabolism of sugars and the hydrolysis >> in homebrewing, the process linalool >> one of many hop compounds.
release of CO2 and alcohol. by which the addition of water breaks down Although linalool constitutes a tiny
finings >> clarifying agents that are added proteins and carbohydrates. percentage of hop oils, combined with
post-fermentation to help pull suspended hydrometer >> a glass instrument used in geraniol, it strongly affects the aroma of
yeast, malt proteins, and polyphenols out of brewing to measure the specific gravity of beer.
the beer. beer and wort to calculate alcohol percentage lipid >> types of fat in animal and plant
firkin >> British cask containing 10.8 U.S. or and fermentation status. matter.
9 Imperial gallons (40.9 liters). liquification >> the process by which alpha
first runnings >> the first few quarts of -I- amylase breaks up the branched amylopectin
wort that are drained off at the beginning of molecules in the mash.
IBU (international bittering unit) >>
runoff until the draining wort is fairly clear. Lovibond >> a method of measuring beer
the accepted method of expressing hop
flocculation >> the clumping together and and grain color, superseded by the SRM
bitterness in beer.
settling of the yeast out of solution. method for beer, but still often used in
impact hops >> also called special flavor
fusel alcohol >> a group of more complex reference to grain color.
hops. Hops varietals bred to exhibit
alcohols that esterify under normal lupulin >> hops resiny substance that
such flavor and aroma attributes as pine,
conditions. In beer, fusel alcohols can be contains all the resins and aromatic oils.
pineapple, grapefruit, mango, lychee, and
produced by excessive amounts of yeast.
gooseberries.
FWH >> first wort hopping is a process that -M-
infusion >> a mashing technique where
involves adding finishing hops to the boil Maillard browning >> a caramelization
heating is accomplished with addition of
kettle as the wort is drained from the lauter reaction that creates malts roasted color and
boiling water.
or mash tun. flavor.
Irish moss (also called carrageen) >> a
marine algae used to promote the formation malt >> barley or other grain that has been
-G- allowed to sprout, then dried or roasted.
of break material and precipitation during
gelatin >> one of several fining agents. the boil. maltose >> a simple sugar that is the
gelatinization >> the process of breaking isinglass >> a fining agent that comes from predominant fermentable material in wort.
down the starch granules in corn or other the clear swim bladder of some fish. mash >> the hot-water steeping process in
unmalted cereals to make the starch iso-alpha acid >> predominant source of which starch is converted into sugars.
accessible for conversion into sugar. bitterness in beer. Derived from the hops mash tun >> vessel with a false bottom in
geraniol >> one of many hop compounds. during the boil. which mashing is carried out.
Researchers have determined that citronellol isomerization >> the chemical change melanoidins >> the strong flavor
is primarily generated from geraniol when during wort boiling that causes hop alpha compounds produced by Maillard browning.
high levels of linalool are present. acids to become more bitter and soluble in milling >> grinding or crushing grain.
germination >> the process by which the wort. modification >> the degree to which the
barley shoot begins to grow and emerge protein-starch matrix breaks down during
from the hull. -K- malting.
glucanase >> an enzyme that acts on the mouthfeel >> sensory qualities of a beer other
kettle >> boiling vessel, also known as a copper.
beta glucans of unmalted barley, oatmeal, than flavor, such as body and carbonation.
kraeusen >> as a noun, the thick foamy
rye, and wheat. myrcene>> one of four primary essential hop
head on fermenting beer. As a verb,
oils. Also found in bay, wild thyme, and parsley.
a priming method where vigorously

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 109
| BREWING GLOSSARY |

-O- involved in enzyme activity, yeast nutrition, starch >> complex carbohydrates that are
head retention, and colloidal stability. converted into sugars during mashing.
original gravity (OG) >> measure of wort
proteinase (protease) >> an enzyme that starch haze >> suspended starch particles
strength expressed as specific gravity.
breaks proteins apart into smaller, more that cause cloudiness in beer.
oxidation >> chemical reaction that occurs
soluble units. The breaking up of the steep >> soaking barley or wheat in water to
between oxygen and various components in
proteins is called proteolysis. begin malting.
beer.
protein rest >> during mashing, a rest that step mash >> mashing technique that uses
allows remnant large proteins to be broken controlled temperature steps.
-P-
down into smaller proteins and amino acids sterilize >> to eliminate all forms of life by
parti-gyle >> to get multiple beers out of and any remaining starches to be released either chemical or physical means.
the same mash. The brewer boils successive from the endosperm. strike >> adding hot water to the crushed malt
runnings separately and, ideally, blends to raise the temperature and begin mashing.
them to different strengths. -R-
pasteurization >> the process of sterilizing -T-
racking >> carefully siphoning the beer away
by heat.
from the trub to another fermenter or to tannins >> polyphenols, complex organic
peptidase >> an enzyme that breaks up
bottles. materials with an astringent flavor, extracted
small proteins in the endosperm to form
Reinheitsgebot >> Bavarian beer-purity law, from barley husks and hops.
amino acids.
enacted in 1516 decreeing that beer can have terpenes >> the flavor chemicals in hop oils.
peptide >> a short fragment of a protein.
only three components: water, barley, and trub >> the hot and cold break material, hop
pH (potential of hydrogen) >> the scale
hops. bits, and dead yeast sediment at the bottom
used to express the level of acidity and
runnings >> wort that is drained from the of the fermenter.
alkalinity in a solution. Neutral is a value of
mash during sparging. two-row >> the most common type of barley
7; most acidic is a value of 1; most alkaline is
for brewing everywhere except America.
a value of 14.
-S-
phenol >> chemical family responsible for
saccharification >> conversion of starch to -U-
spicy, smoky, clove-like, and other aromas
in beer. sugars in the mash through enzymatic action. underlet >> adding water to a mash from
pitch >> adding yeast to the fermentor. Saccharomyces >> scientific genus name of below to encourage quicker and more
Plato >> European and American scale of brewers yeast. thorough mixing of the grains and water.
gravity based on a percentage of pure sugar sanitize >> to reduce microbial
in the wort. A newer, more accurate version contaminants to insignificant levels. -V, W, X, Y, Z-
of the Balling scale. secondary fermentation >> after the
Vinnie nail >> attributed to Vinnie Cilurzo
polishing >> final filtration before bottling primary fermentation, beer is racked to a
from Russian River Brewing. Made of
that leaves beer sparkling clear. sterile container for a slower phase of yeast
stainless steel and typically 1.5" 2" long,
polyphenol >> tannins that contribute to activity during which complex sugars are
these are used to plug the small hole that
haze and staling reactions. metabolized.
is drilled into a wooden barrel to retrieve a
polysaccharide >> polymers of simple session beer >> a beer that is lighter in
sample of aging beer.
sugars. gravity and alcohol (usually less than 4.5% ABV).
whirlpool >> a device that separates the
ppm >> parts per million. 1 milligram per set mash >> during sparging, when the grain
hops and trub from the wort after boiling.
liter. Most commonly used to express bed plugs up and no liquid flows through it.
wine thief >> an instrument used for taking
dissolved mineral concentrations in water. six-row >> the type of barley most often
a sample of wine or beer from a fermenter.
precipitation >> a chemical process grown in the United States and used in the
wort >> the sugar-laden liquid from the
involving a material coming out of solution. production of American-style beers.
mash.
primary fermentation >> initial rapid stage sparge >> rinsing mashed grains with hot
wort chiller >> a heat exchanger that rapidly
of yeast activity when maltose and other water to recover all available wort sugars.
cools wort from near boiling to pitching
simple sugars are metabolized. specific gravity >> a measurement of malt
temperatures.
priming >> adding a small amount of sugar sugar density in the wort, expressed relative
yeast >> a large class of microscopic fungi,
to beer before bottling to restart fermentation to the density of water.
several species of which are used in brewing.
and give the beer carbonization. SRM (Standard Reference Method) >> the
zymurgy >> the science of brewing and
protein >> complex organic molecules measurement of beer color.
fermentation.

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tribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is one thousand nine hundred nine; number of copies of single issue published nearest to
filing date is three thousand two hundred sixty-two. Total Paid Distribution Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is eight thousand nine hundred forty-eight; number of copies of single
issue published nearest to filing date is twelve thousand three hundred eighteen. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies included on PS Form 3541 Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12
months is zero; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is zero. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541 Average number of copies each issue during preceding
12 months is zero; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is zero. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS Average number of copies each issue during
preceding 12 months is three thousand one hundred ninety-eight; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is two thousand five hundred eighty-four. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside
the Mail Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is four hundred thirty-nine; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is one thousand two hundred. Total Free or
Nominal Rate Distribution Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is three thousand six hundred thirty-seven; number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is three
thousand seven hundred eighty-four. Total Distribution Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twelve thousand five hundred eighty-five; number of copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date is sixteen thousand one hundred two. Copies not Distributed Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twelve thousand four hundred seventy-five; number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date is thirteen thousand four hundred seventeen. Total Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is twenty-five thousand sixty; number of copies
of single issue published nearest to filing date is twenty-nine thousand five hundred nineteen. Percent Paid Average number of copies each issue during preceding 12 months is seventy-one point one percent;
number of copies of single issue published nearest to filing date is seventy-six point five percent.

110 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


HOT

1. THE MASH
R MEN
FE T
(AND STEEP)
This process extracts
fermentable and
non-fermentable sug-
ars from the grains as
well as valuable color,
flavor, and body.
9. RACK TO
2. THE BOIL 8. PITCH YEAST SECONDARY
Boiling not only Make sure that your After primary fermen-
concentrates the yeast and wort are tation is complete,
wort into a delicious both at room tem- beer is racked to a
sugary liquid, it also perature and then secondary fermenter.
pulls bitterness from add the yeast to your This removes the
the hops and causes fermenter. beer from the trub left
reactions that are in the bottom of the
necessary for rigorous 7. OXYGENATE primary fermenter,
fermentation. WORT which has the
Oxygen plays a key potential to produce
3. ADD HOPS role in jumpstarting the off-flavors.
Hops are generally yeasts fermentation
divided into two cate- ability. While not 10. DRY HOP
goriesbittering hops mandatory, adding An optional step
and aroma hops. The oxygen to your wort based on the style of
longer you boil hops, via an aeration stone beer and personal
the more bitterness or 02 tank is recom- taste, additional hops
you extract. Aroma mended. are added to the
hops are added later secondary fermenter
in the boil process to 6. TRANSFER TO after primary fermen-
preserve the essential FERMENTER tation is complete.
oils that contribute This process adds
their distinct aromatic 5. CHILL WORT hop aroma without
profiles. Rapidly chilling bitterness.
the wort helps add
4. ADD MISC clarity to the wort 11. BOTTLE/KEG
(OPTIONAL) and gets the wort Once fermentation
Toward the end of to a temperature is complete, the beer
the boil, recipes may where it will be ready can then be racked
call for adding other to accept yeast. to either a bottling
ingredients such as Rapidly chilling also bucket or keg. If bottling,
brown sugar, spices, decreases the chance priming sugar is added
extracts, or herbs. of potential bacterial to the beer, giving the
Clarifying agents such infection of the wort. yeast material with
as Whirfloc or Irish which to carbonate
moss may also be the beer in the bottle.
added at this time. If kegging and force
carbonating, no
additional sugar is
required.
COLD

Homebrewing,
Start to Finish
Once youve decided on a recipe or ordered your kit,
ENJOY!

follow these eleven steps and youll be drinking great beer in no time!

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 111
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Retail Shop Directory
Please visit one of these fine shops wherever you are. Castle Rock Homebrew 287 Craft Spirits
Supply (970) 377-0557
If you would like to be listed in our directory, please contact Rachel Szado, (303) 660-2275 5846 S College Ave
[email protected], (888) 875-8708, ext 705. 1043 Park Street Fort Collins, CO 80525
Castle Rock, CO 80109 287discountliquor.com
castlerockhomebrew.com
Pringles Fine Wine & Spirits
Alabama Baycrest Wines & Spirits The Homebrewer
Fermentations (970) 221-1717
(949) 293-3609 (619) 450-6165
Wish You Were Beer (719) 598-1164 2100 W. Drake Rd.
333 E. 17th Street Suite 1 2911 El Cajon Blvd. Suite 2
(256) 325-9992 6820 N. Academy Blvd. Fort Collins, CO 80526
Costa Mesa, CA 92627 San Diego, CA 92104
7407 US Highway 72, Suite G Colorado Springs, CO 80918 pringleswine.com
thehomebrewersd.com
Madison, AL 35758 fermentations.biz
Hops and Berries
wishyouwerebeer.net Pacific Brewing Supplies
Cheers Liquor Mart (970) 493-2484
(800) 448-2337
Alaska (719) 574-2244 1833 E. Harmony Rd. Unit 16
240 S. San Dimas Ave
HopTech Homebrewing 1105 N Circle Dr. Fort Collins, CO 80528
Brew Time San Dimas, CA 91773
Supplies Colorado Springs, CO 80909 hopsandberries.com
(907) 479-0200 pacificbrewingsupplies.com
(925) 875-0246 cheersliquormart.com
29 College Road Suite 4 Old Town Liquor
6398 Dougherty Rd., Ste 7 Boynton Liquors
Fairbanks, AK 99701 Acme Liquor (970) 493-0443
Dublin, CA 94568 (408) 823-0105
(970) 349-5709 214 S. College Ave Suite 1
Alaska Home Brew Supply hoptech.com 3680 Stevens Creek Blvd
510 Belleview Ave. Fort Collins, CO 80524
(907) 863-0025 Operated by 2 passionate San Jose, CA 95117
Crested Butte, CO 81224
6033 Westview Circle home brewers. Over 60 hops, www.site.boyntonliquors.com The Welsh Rabbit Cheese
acmeliquor.com
Wasilla, AK 99654 loads of grain and extract. Shop
Seven Bridges Co-op
alaskahomebrew.com Equipment and ingredients. Park Avenue Wine & Spirits (970) 443-4027
Organic Homebrew
Military and AHA discount! (303) 477-5700 216 Pine Street
Arizona (800) 768-4409
3480 Park Ave W., Ste E Fort Collins, CO 80524
Humboldt Beer Works 325 River St., Ste A
Denver, CO 80216 thewelshrabbit.com
Brew Your Own Brew Gilbert (707) 442-6258 Santa Cruz, CA 95060
parkavewineandspirits.com
(480) 497-0011 110 3rd Street Suite D breworganic.com Toms Brew Shop
525 E. Baseline Rd., Ste 108 Eureka, CA 95501 Argonaut Wine & Liquor (303) 232-5347
Gilbert, AZ 85233 Simi Valley Homebrew
humboldtbeerworks.com (303) 831-7788 883 Parfet St., Ste J
brewyourownbrew.com (805) 583-3110
760 E. Colfax Ave Lakewood, CO 80215
OShea Brewing Co. 4352 Eileen Street
Denver, CO 80203 tomsbrewshop.com
What Ales Ya Homebrew (949) 364-4440 Simi Valley, CA 93063
argonautliquor.com
(623) 486-8016 28142 Camino Capistrano, simivalleyhomebrew.com Barley Haven Homebrew
6363 W. Bell Rd., Ste 2 Ste. 107 Beer At Home (303) 936-2337
Glendale, AZ 85308 Valley Brewers
Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 (303) 789-3676 1050 South Wadsworth Blvd.
whatalesya.com (805) 691-9159
osheabrewing.com 4393 S. Broadway Suite B
515 4th Pl.
Englewood, CO 80113 Lakewood, CO 80226
Brew Your Own Brew Beltramos Solvang, CA 93463
beerathome.com barleyhaven.com
Scottsdale (650) 325-2806 valleybrewers.com
(480) 625-4200 1540 El Camino Real Rambos Longhorn Liquor Warhammer Supply
8230 E. Raintree Rd. #103 Colorado Mart (970) 635-2602
Menlo Park, CA 94025
Scottsdale, AZ 85260 beltramos.com The Brew Hut (970) 586-8583 1112 Monroe Ave.
brewyourownbrew.com (303) 680-8898 1640 Big Thompson Ave. Loveland, CO 80537
Murrieta Homebrew Estes Park, CO 80517 warhammersupply.com
Brew Your Own Brew Tuscon 15120 E. Hampden Ave.
Emporium ramboslonghornliquor.com
(520) 322-5049 Aurora, CO 80014 Quirky Homebrew
(951) 600-0008
2564 N. Campbell Ave. thebrewhut.com Mile High Ace (303) 457-3555
38750 Sky Canyon Dr., Ste A
Tuscon, AZ 85719 Murrieta, CA 92563 Avon Liquor (303) 531-2375 425 W 115th Ave Unit 6
brewyourownbrew.com murrietahomebrew.com (970) 949-4384 2800 W. 104th Ave Northglenn, CO 80234
100 West Beaver Creek Blvd Federal Heights, CO 80234 quirkyhomebrew.com
Arkansas J&M Brewing Supplies milehighaceandgarden.com
Avon, CO 81620 Bruin Spirits
Hydro & Brew (415) 883-7300
avon-liquor.com Als Newsstand (303) 840-1678
(479) 268-3423 101 Roblar Dr. Suite C
Novato, CA 94949 Boulder Wine Merchant (970) 482-9853 11177 S. Dransfeldt Rd
2906 Bell Vista Way 177 North College Ave Parker, CO 80134
Bella Vista, AR 72714 jmbrew.com (303) 443-6761
2690 Broadway St Fort Collins, CO 80524 bruinspiritsinc.com
hydroandbrew.com The Bearded Brewer
Boulder, CO 80304 Hops and Berries Big Bear Wine & Liquor
(661) 418-6348
California boulderwine.com (970) 493-2484 (719) 561-8542
4855 W. Columbia Way
CRAFT Beer & Wine Quartz Hill, CA 93536 Hazels Beverage World 130 W. Olive St. Unit B 2037 S. Pueblo Blvd
(510) 769-9463 (303) 447-1955 Fort Collins, CO 80524 Pueblo, CO 81005
NorCal Brewing Solutions hopsandberries.com liquorstorepueblo.com
2526 A Santa Clara Ave 1955 28th St.
(530) 243-2337
Alameda, CA 94501 Boulder, CO 80301 Savory Spice Shop Barley Haven Draft n Still
1768 Churn Creek Rd.
craftalameda.com hazelsboulder.com (970) 682-2971 (303) 789-2337
Redding, CA 96002
Fermentation Solutions norcalbrewingsolutions.com Boulder Fermentation 123 N. College Ave. #100 4131 South Natches Court
(408) 871-1400 Supply Fort Collins, CO 80524 Unit B
The Cellar myecard.pro/savory Sheridan, CO 80110
2507 Winchester Blvd. (303) 578-0041
(949) 212-6182 barleyhaven.com
Campbell, CA 95008 2510 47th St. Unit I
156 Avenida Del Mar
fermentationsolutions.com Boulder, CO 80301
San Clemente, CA 92672
boulderfermentationsupply.
thecellarsite.com
com

116 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING


Ski Haus Liquors Carters Beer and Wine Brewers Haven (Nampa) Indiana Maryland
(970) 879-7278 Crafters (208) 461-3172
1450 S. Lincoln Ave (941) 753-0011 1311 12th Ave. Rd Great Fermentations Nepenthe Homebrew
Steamboat Springs, CO 1070 Whitfield Ave. Nampa, ID 83686 (317) 268-6776 (443) 438-4846
80477 Sarasota, FL 34243 www.brewershaven.com 7900 E. US 36 West 3600 Clipper Mill Road 130A
Avon, IN 46123 Baltimore, MD 21211
Applejack Wine & Spirits Georgia Rocky Mountain Homebrew greatfermentations.com nepenthehomebrew.com
(303) 233-3331 Supply
3320 Youngfield St. Wine Workshop & Brew (208) 745-0866 DIY Coffee and Ale Supply Maryland Homebrew
Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 Center Inc. 218 N 4000 E. (574) 370-2578 (888) 273-9669
applejack.com (404) 228-5211 Rigby, ID 83442 114 East Washington St. 6770 Oak Hall Lane #108
627-F East College Ave rockymountainhomebrew.com Goshen, IN 46528 Columbia, MD 21045
Kitchen & Homebrew Supply Decatur, GA 30030 facebook.com/ marylandhomebrew.com
(719) 687-0557 wineworkshop.net Illinois diycoffeeandalesupply
118 W. Midland Ave. Flying Barrel
Woodland Park, CO 80863 Taps Craft Beers Bev Art Brewer & Winemaker Brewhouse Supplies (301) 663-4491
kitchenandhomebrewsupply. (404) 996-6939 Supply (219) 286-7285 1781 N. Market St.
com 1248 Clairmont Rd. (773) 233-7579 1555 West Lincolnway, Federick, MD 21701
Decatur, GA 30030 10033 S. Western Ave. Ste102 flyingbarrel.com
Connecticut tapscraftbeers.com Chicago, IL 60643 Valparaiso, IN 46385
bev-art.com brewhousesupplies.com Massachusetts
Stomp N Crush Beverage World
(860) 552-4634 (706) 866-5644 Brew & Grow Iowa Craft Beer Cellar Belmont
140 Killingsworth Turnpike 1840 Lafayette Rd. (312) 243-0005 (617) 932-1885
(Rt.81) Fort Oglethorpe, GA 30742 19 S. Morgan St. C & S Brew Supply 51 Leonard St.
Clinton, CT 06413 ourbeers.com Chicago, IL 60618 (515) 963-1965 Belmont, MA 02478
stompncrush.com brewandgrow.com 315 SW Maple St craftbeercellar.com
Operation Homebrew Ankeny, IA 50023
Maltose Express (770) 638-8383 Brew & Grow www.candsbrewsupply.com Baystate Foods & Spirits
(203) 452-7332 1142 Athens Hwy #105 (773) 463-7430 (617) 232-2587
246 Main Street Grayson, GA 30017 3625 N. Kedzie Ave. Kansas 1418 Beacon St.
Monroe, CT 06468 operationhomebrew.com Chicago, IL 60618 Brookline, MA 02446
All Grain Brewing Specialists
maltoseexpress.net brewandgrow.com LLC Homebrew Emporium
Hops & Barley Craft Beer
Zoks Homebrewing and (912) 657-2006 Brew & Grow (785) 230-2145 (617) 498-0400
Winemaking Supplies 412 MLK Jr. Blvd (815) 301-4950 1235 NW 39th 2304 Massachusetts Ave
(860) 456-7704 Savannah, GA 31401 176 W. Terra Cotta Ave. Topeka, KS 66618 Cambridge, MA 02140
18 North St. hopsandbarleysav.com Suite A allgrainbrewing.biz beerbrew.com
Willimantic, CT 06232 Crystal Lake, IL 60014 Kentucky Corks Fine Wine & Liquors
homemadebrew.net Savannah Homebrew Shop brewandgrow.com
(912) 201-9880 (508) 337-9463
Winemakers & Beermakers 309 West Street
Florida 2102 Skidway Rd North Shore Brewing Supply Supply
Savannah, GA 31404 (847) 831-0570 Mansfield, MA 02048
Brew Story (502) 425-1692 corksfinewine.com
savannahhomebrew.com 1480 Old Deerfield Rd Suite 9475 Westport Rd.
(239) 494-1923 15
20451 S. Tamiami Trail #11 Louisville, KY 40241
Highland Park, IL 60035 winebeersupply.com
Estero, FL 33928 northshorebrewingsupply.com
Hanger 41 Winery and Brew Louisiana
Perfect Brewing Supply
Shop (847) 816-7055 Baton Rouges Premier
(239) 542-9463 Barley & Vine 619 E. Park Ave. Liquor Store
10970 South Cleveland Ave., (770) 507-5998 Strange Brew
Libertyville, IL 60048 (225) 364-2248 (508) 460-5050
Unit 304 1445 Rock Quarry Road #202 perfectbrewsupply.com 3911 Perkins Road
Fort Myers, FL 33907 Stockbridge, GA 30281 416 Boston Post Rd. East
Baton Rouge, LA 70808 (Route 20)
www.timetomakewine.com barleynvine.com Windy Hill Hops
Craft Beer (draft/bottled/ (312) 834-4677 LA Homebrew Marlboro, MA 01752
Hop Heads Craft 139 Windy Hill Rd. (225) 773-9128 Home-Brew.com
kegged), Wine, Cider, and
Homebrewing Supplies Murphysboro, IL 62966 7987 Pecue Lane Suite 8-H Visit New Englands Largest
Mead. Supplies to make your
(850) 586-7626 www.windyhillhops.com Baton Rouge, LA 70809 Retail Home-Brew Store! Save
own beer, wine, cider, mead
26C NW Racetrack Road lahomebrew.com 10% off Craft Beer & Brewing
or cheese. Brew & Grow
Fort Walton Beach, FL 32547 online courses with coupon
hopheadsfwb.com Idaho (630) 894- 4885 Brewstock code strangebrew.
359 W. Irving Park Rd. (504) 208-2788
Biscayne Home Brew Brewers Haven (Boise) Roselle, IL 60172 3800 Dryades St. Craft Beer Cellar Newton
(305) 479-2691 (208) 991-4677 brewandgrow.com New Orleans, LA 70115 (617) 916-0244
7939 Biscayne Blvd. 1795 S. Vista Ave. brewstock.com 1243 Centre St.
Miami, FL 33138 Boise, ID 83705 Home Brew Shop Ltd. Newton, MA 02459
biscaynehomebrew.com www.brewershaven.com (630) 377-1338 Brewniverse craftbeercellar.com
225 W. Main St. (318) 671-4141
Sanford Homebrew Shop HomeBrewStuff Saint Charles, IL 60174 855 Pierremont Rd. Suite 124 Austin Liquors Shrewbury
(407) 732-6931 (208) 375-2559 homebrewshopltd.com Shreveport, LA 71106 (508) 755-8100
115 S. Magnolia Ave. 9165 W. Chinden Blvd., brewniversebeerstore.com 20 Boston Turnpike Rd.
Sanford, FL 32771 Ste103 Shrewbury, MA 01545
sanfordhomebrewshop.com Garden City, ID 83714 austinliquors.com
homebrewstuff.com

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 117

116_CBB5_Directory.indd 117 12/19/14 1:33 PM


Retail Shop Directory
Ball Square Fine Wines Minnesota New Jersey Above The Rest Beer & Wine
(617) 623-9500 Homebrewing Supplies
716 Broadway Natural Harvest Food Co-op The Brewers Apprentice (503) 968-2736
Somerville, MA 02144 (218) 741-4663 (732) 863-9411 11945 SW Pacific Hwy, #235
ballsquarefinewines.com 505 N. 3rd Street 865 State Route 33, Ste 4 Tigard, OR 97223
Virginia, MN 55792 Freehold, NJ 07728 atr-homebrewing.com
Craft Beer Cellar Winchester naturalharvestfoodcoop.com brewapp.com Atlantic Brew Supply
(781) 369-1174 (919) 400-9087 Pennsylvania
18 Thompson Street Mississippi Love2Brew
(888) 654-5511 3709 Neil Street In and Out Beverage
Winchester, MA 01890 Brew Ha Ha Homebrew Raleigh, NC 27607
craftbeercellar.com 1583 Livingston Ave. Unit #2 (717) 264-2614
Supply North Brunswick, NJ 08902 atlanticbrewsupply.com 1106 Sheller Ave.
Beer and Wine Hobby (601) 362-0201 love2brew.com Whether you homebrew, new Chambersburg, PA 17201
(781) 933-8818 4800 I-55 North Suite 17A to the commercial brewing
155 T New Boston St Jackson, MS 39211 New York scene, or expanding, Atlantic Simply Homebrew
Woburn, MA 01801 brewhahasupply.com Brew Supply is ready to set (570) 788-2311
Astoria Beer and Brew you up! 2 Honey Hole Rd.
beer-wine.com Missouri (718) 606-0779 Drums, PA 18222
Austin Liquors Worcester 2176 21st Street Ohio simplyhomebrew.com
Brew & Wine Supply Astoria, NY 11105
(508) 852-8953 (636) 797-8155 The Hops Shack
117 Gold Star Blvd astoriabeerandbrew.com Wine, Barley & Hops
10663 Business 21 (419) 617-7770 Homebrew Supply
Worcester, MA 01606 Hillsboro, MO 63050 Dunkirk Homebrew Supplies 1687 Marion Rd.
austinliquors.com (215) 322-4780
brewandwinesupply.com (716) 679-7977 Bucyrus, OH 44820 248 Bustleton Pike
Michigan 3375 East Main Road hopshack.com Feasterville Trevose, PA 19053
Grains & Taps Dunkirk, NY 14048
(816) 866-5827 Wolfs Premium Nuts & winebarleyandhops.com
dunkirkhomebrew.com
224 SE Douglas St. Crafts Windsor Distributing
Lees Summit, MO 64063 Arbor Wine and Beer (419) 423-1355 (610) 562-2474
grains-taps.myshopify.com Supplies 1016 Tiffin Ave. 800 South 4th Street.
(631) 277-3004 Findlay, OH 45840 Hamburg, PA 19526
Montana 184 Islip Ave wolfiesnuts.com
Adventures In Homebrewing windsordist.com
Hennessy Market Islip, NY 11751
(313) 277-2739 arborwine.com The PumpHouse Homebrew Hamlin Distributors
(406) 723-3097 Shop
6071 Jackson Rd. (570) 689-2891
32 East Granite St. Pantanos Wine Grapes & (330) 755-3642
Ann Arbor, MI 48103 590 Hamlin Highway
Butte, MT 59701 Homebrew 336 Elm St.
www.homebrewing.org Hamlin, PA 18427
hennessymarket.com (845) 255-5201 Struthers, OH 44471
Serving HomeBrewers Since hamlindistributors.com
1999. We specialize in Beer Rock Hand Hardware 249 Rte. 32 South pumphousehomebrew.com
Making, Wine Making and (406) 442-7770 New Paltz, NY 12561 Scotzin Bros
pantanosbeerwine.com Oklahoma (717) 737-0483
Kegging. 2414 N. Montana Ave
Helena, MT 59601 High Gravity 65 C North Fifth St.
Sicilianos Market Saratoga Zymurgist Lemoyne, PA 17043
rockhandacehardware.com (518) 580-9785 (918) 461-2605
(616) 453-9674 7142 S. Memorial Drive scotzinbros.com
2840 Lake Michigan Dr NW Summer Sun Garden & Brew 112 Excelsior Ave.
Saratoga Springs, NY 12866 Tulsa, OK 74133 Weak Knee Home Brew
Grand Rapids, MI 49504 (406) 541-8623 highgravitybrew.com
sicilianosmkt.com 838 West Spruce Street saratogaz.com Supply
Missoula, MT 59802 Oregon (610) 327-1450
Bells General Store Hop & Goblet 1277 N.Charlotte St
summersungardenandbrew. (315) 790-5946
(269) 382-5712 The Brew Shop Pottstown, PA 19464
com 2007 Genesee St
355 E. Kalamazoo Ave (541) 323-2318 weakkneehomebrew.com
Kalamazoo, MI 49007 Nebraska Utica, NY 13501 1203 NE Third Street
bellsbeer.com Bend, OR 97701 Bailees Homebrew & Wine
Kirks Brew North Carolina Supplies
Capital City Homebrew thebrewshopbend.com
(402) 476-7414 Bull City Homebrew (717) 755-7599
Supply 1150 Cornhusker Hwy (919) 682-0300 2252 Industrial Hwy
(517) 374-1070 Lincoln, NE 68521 1906 E. NC Hwy 54, Suite York, PA 17402
2006 E. Michigan Ave. kirksbrew.com 200-B baileeshomebrew.com
Lansing, MI 48912 Durham, NC 27713
capitalcityhomebrewsupply. Nevada South Carolina
bullcityhomebrew.com
com BrewChatter Liquid Hobby
F.H. Steinbart Co.
Pere Marquette Expeditions (775) 358-0477 (503) 232-8793 (803) 798-2033
(231) 845-7285 1275 Kleppe Ln. Unit 21 234 SE 12th Ave 736-F St. Andrews Road
1649 South Pere Marquette Sparks, NV 89431 Portland, OR 97214 Columbia, SC 29210
Hwy brewchatter.com fhsteinbart.com liquidhobby.com
Ludington, MI 49431 F.H. Steinbart, Americas Tennessee
New Hampshire
pmexpeditions.com oldest home brew supply
Kettle to Keg store, offers products and Rebel Brewer
Cap N Cork Homebrew (615) 859-2188
(603) 485-2054 services from starter kits to
Supply 105 Space Park North
123 Main Street professional draft equipment.
(586) 286-5202 Goodlettsville, TN 37072
Suncook, NH 03275
16776 21 Mile Road rebelbrewer.com
kettletokeg.com
Macomb, MI 48044
capncorkhomebrew.com

118 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

116_CBB5_Directory.indd 118 12/19/14 1:33 PM


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Bernoulli Brew Werks Craft Beer Cellar Waterbury Canada
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My LHBS Blichmann Engineering, LLC 1
Haltom City, TX 76117 (703) 241-3874 (403) 258-1580
txbrewing.com 6025 Centre Street South Brew & Wine Supply 33
6201 Leesburg Pike Brew Heads 113
Falls Church, VA 22044 Calgary, AB T2H 0C2
Black Hawk Brewing Supply thevineyard.ca Brew Organic 61
(254) 393-0491 mylhbs.com Brewing Tools 53
582 E. Central Texas Huge selection of ingredients Germany Brewmation 43
Expressway and equipment conveniently Cicerone 27
Harker Heights, TX 76548 located inside the Beltway. Clawhammer Supply 23
blackhawkbrewing.com Check out our unique and Colorado Brewers Festival 88
delicious store recipe kits! K. Malt Inc./Corosys Kellerworks 25
DeFalcos Home Wine and Hopfen und mehr
Beer Supplies Wine and Cake Hobbies Craft Beer Hound 33
Rudenweiler 16 Electric Brewing Supply 35
(800) 216-2739 (757) 857-0245 Tettnang 88069
9223 Stella Link Rd. 6527 Tidewater Dr. Epic Brewing 23
www.hobbybrauerversand.de Five Star Chemicals 72
Houston, TX 77025 Norfolk, VA 23509 In Germany? Were the
defalcos.com wineandcake.com exclusive distributor of CB&B
Fort Collins Brewery 7
Garage Monk 113
Texas Homebrewers Washington magazine here! Check us out!
Grandstand Inside Back Cover
(855) 744-2739 Olympic Brewing New Zealand Great Fermentations 55
3130 North Fry Rd., Ste 800 (360) 373-1094 Grog Tag 41
Katy, TX 77449 2817 Wheaton Way #102 High Gravity 67
texashomebrewers.com Bremerton, WA 98310 Krome Dispense 27
Yellow House Canyon Brew olybrew.com Label-Nator 87
Works LD Carlson 10
Homebrew Heaven Left Hand Brewing 2
(806) 744-1917 (425) 355-8865
601 N. University Ave. BrewShop Love2Brew 35
9121 Evergreen Way. Mad River Brewing 35
Lubbock, TX 79408 Everett, WA 98204 64 7 929 4547
www. PO Box 998 Millars Mills 39
homebrewheaven.com Misco 67
yellowhousecanyonbrewworks. Hamilton 3240
com San Juan Island Cheese brewshop.co.nz Mr. Beer 10
(360) 370-5115 BrewShop is the exclusive Muntons Inc. 33
Cypress Grape and Grain 155 Nichols St. New Belgium Brewing Back Cover
(832) 698-1402 distributor of Craft Beer
Friday Harbor, WA 98250 & Brewing Magazine to Nightclub & Bar Show 105
24914 State Hwy 249 Suite sjicheese.com NorCal Brewing Solutions 114
145 independent retail shops in
New Zealand. Contact us Odell Brewing 13
Tomball, TX 77375 Whidbey Island Homebrew Ohmbrew Automations 53
cypressgrapeandgrain.com Supply today!
Pangea Designs 114
(360) 682-5011 Norway Rodenbach/Latis Imports 15
Utah 3161 Goldie Rd., Ste H Ruby Street 39
Oak Harbor, WA 98277 Bakke Brygg AS
Salt City Brewing Supply 114
whidbeyislandhomebrew.com plus sign 47 73 20 16 40
Fjordgata 9B Saranac Brewing 61
Sound Homebrew Trondheim S-T N-7010 Ska Brewing 55
(206) 734-8074 bakkebrygg.no Society of Beer Travelers 114
6505 5th Place S. Southern Tier Brewing 9
Seattle, WA 98108 Portugal Ss Brewing Technologies 51
Salt City Brew Supply Tap n Handle 61
(801) 849-0955 soundhomebrew.com
Tappecue 114
750 E. Fort Union Blvd. International The Home Brewery 33
Midvale, UT 84047 Customers Thirsty Dog Brewing 39
saltcitybrewsupply.com Oficina da Cerveja
Belgium Total Beverage Inside Front Cover
Call us with your brewing + 351 911 555 851 Solution
questions and make whatever Rua Bernardim Ribeiro 59 Tria Taproom 114
Malt Attacks
beer you want with our Lisbon 1150-069 Vander Mill/Elite Brands USA 87
32 (0) 471/66.10.69
selection of hops, yeast, and www.oficinadacerveja.pt Vin Table 55
Av. Jean Volders 18
grain. Visit our website! Were the Wild Goose Canning 31
Brussels 1060
exclusive distributor of Craft
Vermont Beer & Brewing Magazine
Brewfest Beverage Co. to independent retail shops in For more information about advertising in
(802) 228-4261 Portugal. Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine, please
199 Main St. contact Media Sales Manager Alex Johnson
Ludlow, VT 05149 at [email protected] or
brewfestbeverage.com 888.875.8708 x707.

BEERANDBREWING.COM | 119

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| CHILL PLATE |

PHOTOS: KIRBY LEE FOR FLOCASTS

The Craft Beer Mile


History was made on December 3, 2014, in Austin, Texas, as Beth Herndon set a new womens world
record in the beer mile. Herndon, 29, chose to drink four cans of New Belgiums Fat Tire Ale en route
to her winning mile time of six minutes and seventeen seconds at the Flotrack Beer Mile World
Championships. Watch a replay of her impressive performance at flotrack.org/beermileworlds/ .

120 | CRAFT BEER & BREWING

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