How To Insulate A Camper Van
How To Insulate A Camper Van
How To Insulate A Camper Van
Table of Contents
Step 1: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 2: Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Step 3: Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-insulate-a-camper-van/
Author:AudreyDesjardins
I am an industrial designer, an interaction design researcher, a painter, a jeweller, and I just love to make stuff!
After reading multiple blogs and info sites about Sprinter and van conversions, we decided to use metallic bubble wrap, fiberglass insulation, and a plastic vapor barrier.
In total, it took us about 2 days (6-7 hours a day) with 2 to 4 people working on this to finish the insulation process. It cost us about 300$ for the materials (although we
got the fiberglass insulation for free from a friend).
DISCLAIMER: This is the first van conversion we are doing, so this is certainly a process of trial and error ! We tried to describe at every step the reasons why we made
the choice materials we made, so hopefully you can see that we used common sense to design this process. I am an industrial designer and design research and my
boyfriend is a landscape architect with some knowledge in wood working. We see this project as an experiment and as a wonderful place to try out some ideas about
design, materials and fabrication.
For an overview of the work we did, take a look at our timelapse videos!
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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-insulate-a-camper-van/
Step 1: Materials
Materials:
Reflectix metallic bubble wrap (we got 150 sq feet and it was just enough for the floor and the walls)
Fiberglass insulation
Duct tape (2 rolls of 66 meters)
Vapor barrier (we got the smallest roll, and it was way too much!)
Spray glue (2 bottles) (we tried Lepage and Nashua. Nashua worked better for us.)
Spray insulation (2 bottles of "GREAT STUFF Big Gap Filler Insulating Foam Sealant" 454 g)
Foam boards (2 sheets of "DUROFOAM DuroFoam EPS Rigid Insulation" 4 x 8, 1 inch thick).
Image Notes
1. Fiberglass insulation
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Step 2: Tools
Tools:
Safety first: Goggles, gloves, masks - particularly when working with the fiberglass insulation
Scissors
Exacto knife
Measuring tape
Screw driver and allen keys
Step 3: Preparation
The first step to insulate the van is to get it ready to accept the insulation.
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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-insulate-a-camper-van/
Image Notes
1. Install a go pro if you want!
Image Notes
1. Close out the front cabin.
1. Unroll the reflectix bubble wrap on the floor. Use the exacto or scissors to cut it to the appropriate length.
2. Secure the bubble wrap in place with the red tuct tape. You don't have to glue it all around, just enough to make sure it won't move once the flooring is put back
on top.
3. Once you have done the middle piece, work around on the edges by placing the bubble wrap down and cutting it to size. The goal is to cover the whole floor
before putting back the top on.
4. Put back the top onto the bubble wrap. Remember the order you took things appart. For us, we had to take out the piece closer to the front benches first and then
remove the back one. So when placing them back, we started with the back piece and then the front one.
5. Where there are holes for the inserts to hold down the plywood, use an exacto knife to make a X shape hole. This way you can find the screw hole under and get
ready to screw back the insert.
6. Place back the insert piece under the foil and then add the black metal piece.
7. Screw everything back in place!
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Image Notes
1. Add smaller parts to finish the whole floor.
Image Notes
1. Start with the back panel since it has the bottom lip between the two floor
platforms.
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Step 5: The ceiling
The ceiling of the Sprinter van is separated by about 6 ribs of about 2 inches wide. In between each set of ribs, we placed durofoam foam boards to do the insulation.
We decided to use this material for the ceiling since it is easy to place and can hold in place without too much trouble.
Remember, a van is not like a house, the materials don't breathe as much and moisture can really be a problem inside. (We did not use the vapor barrier on the ceiling or
floor since there are almost no risk of having mould on the bubble wrap itself or on the durofoam on the ceiling).
1. Unroll a part of the bubble wrap, measure approximately how much you will need.
2. Cut with scissors to the dimensions.
3. Use spray glue. Read well the instructions on the one you get. With the LePage and Nashua, you need to spray on both surfaces (the bubble wrap and the wall)
and let it sit for 2-5 minutes before glueing it together.
4. Place the bubble wrap to the appropriate surface on the walls of the van. Apply pressure everywhere to make sure it is well glued.
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For the smaller sections (between the ribs), we made sure to cut out little wings to fit on the ribs and behind the ribs when possible. For the even smaller sections (in the
ribs), we were sometimes able to add a rectangle of bubble wrap without glueing it in place. The fiber glass insulation will hold it in place.
Image Notes
1. Approximately measure how much you will need before you cut.
Image Notes
1. Make sure you get the edges and corners well.
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Image Notes
1. Make sure you have enough to cover the edge here.
2. Add little wings that can go behind the studs and on the studs.
1. Approximate the size of the pieces you need to cover each piece of bubble wrap.
2. Use scissors to cut to size.
3. In the small sections surrounded by ribs, shove the insulation into place.The ribs should be enough to hold it in place. Don't compact the insulation too much, as it
is the little air parts between the fiberglass that creates the insulation.
4. For the larger sections, we used tape to hold the insulation in place. Since we know that there will be the vapor barrier and the final paneling, this is a good
enough temporary solution!
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Step 8: The walls: foam insulation in the beams
SAFETY NOTE:
Use gloves and goggles for this part, as this stuff is really sticky on the fingers and would definitely not be good to have in your eyes.
There are still gaps behind some of the beams that are not possible to attain with bubble wrap and fiberglass insulation. For those, we used foam insulation in a spray
can. We read only later that you are supposed to fill in only to 50% of the gap with the foam, since it will expand afterwards... So we had to cut out the excess!
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Step 9: The walls: third layer is the vapor barrier
The final step is to add the vapor barrier to seal everything. The goal here is to have no air coming from the van to the fiberglass insulation.
1. Start by cutting an approximately good size piece of plastic for each section. For sections, we used the large beams already on the walls to dictate where we were
going to separate the sections.
2. For each section, start by using tuct tape on the top part of the piece to secure it in place.
3. Then make sure to cut out space for the wheel for the bottom piece. Make sure the size is ok all around.
4. Then tape down the bottom, and finish with the sides.
We had some more delicate cutting outs to do around the ceiling studs, and around the back anchor for the door. With some patience and good scissors, everything can
be sealed out properly!
YOU ARE NOW DONE! The insulation for the van is complete. If you want a super extra good job, you can also add some insulation in the panels of the doors. We did
not get to this part yet. You can also insulate around the wheels, but this has to be done in conjuncture with whatever you want to build around the wheels.
Once this is done, the next step will be to cover the insulation with a 'pretty' finish so that it is nice and welcoming to live in the van. Some people use thin plywood, some
use plywood covered with fabric or rug. We are thinking of using thin cedar tongue-in-groove slats for a very nice finish. This will come in the next instructables tutorial!
As I said in the intro, this is the first van conversion we are working on. We do not claim that this is the best way to insulate the interior of a van, however we believe that
we have done a thorough research of online resources and what we present here is a nice summary of the best options we have seen out there, considering our budget,
our skills, our schedule, and our future use for the van (winter adventures!). We welcome all comments or questions, since we are curious to see how others have done it.
Questions? Comments?
Related Instructables
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Comments
3 comments Add Comment
Yes, you are right, the van is a lot quieter since we have installed the insulation. We noticed before that as soon as we hit a bump, we could hear the
metal sheets do a sort of bong sound. This is way less present now.
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