Suspension Airmatic
Suspension Airmatic
Suspension Airmatic
All W220 vehicles come with Airmatic pneumatic suspension system, unless vehicle has
option code 487 - ABC SUSPENSION (ACTIVE BODY CONTROL) in which case the
vehicle is equipped with Active Body Control (ABC) hydraulic suspension system with
additional computer control. ABC system provides greater roll control and eliminates any
"nosedive" even with heavy braking (not that there is much of either with Airmatic). Both
suspension systems are responsible for the superb ride and handling of the W220 and
being complex systems will require maintenance.
Airmatic systems on earlier cars tended to fail more often than on the '03 and later - the
'04s and on are less problematic. However, there is no such thing a "bulletproof" pneumatic
suspension system. Seals and pumps will wear, and struts will have to be replaced. You'd
have to do the same thing with standard shocks, too - but Airmatic will be more expensive.
The best protection is to become familiar with the early signs of Airmatic problems, and fix
them right away. Letting them go runs the cost up.
They are not especially problematic, but like any complex system, they break - and any
luxury car is expensive to repair. Keep in mind that if the garage you use does not
have STAR Diagnostics and can not interpret the values both in sensor voltage and other
tests, then don't waste your time and money. Find someone who can. DIY is possible but
preferably requires use of STAR Diagnostics with some prior experience and always lots of
patience.
One common failure point which was initially subject to inspection and free replacement,
was the high-pressure line from the pump to the valve body.
Another common weakness in the pre '03-ish W220's compared to those from a few years
later, is the seals at the tops of the front suspension struts. The older design can leak air
over time. The newer models and ones with new replacement parts do not leak. Cars that
were under warranty could have these seals replaced with that coverage.
Other issues are discussed below.
The EMERGENCY Procedure, or what to do if your car is sitting on the ground, is shown
below.
Description
The W220 AIRmatic system is a fully supporting air suspension system which provides
both static and dynamic support by means of four air struts located at the wheels. Each
strut has an air spring containing an air bag (bladder) and a dampener built-in to the one
unit. The struts get air via a valve distribution unit from an air compressor located behind
the front bumper close to the front right wheel well. On the opposite side is the central
reservoir which stores air pressure for use when the pump is not running. The valve unit is
connected to a computer which monitors the air pressure, the vehicle weight, the vehicle
height requirement and vehicle stance (angle) and then sets the ride height accordingly.
Features
Level control both manual and speed sensitive.
Electronic level control which maintains a constant even level at the front and rear
axles according to the driving and vehicle load conditions.
When the vehicle is stationary the level is readjusted if there is a difference of more
than +/- 10mm after a door or the trunk lid is opened.
While driving the level is readjusted if there is a difference of more than +/- 20mm.
The level is adjusted to +/- 10 mm every 15 minutes.
Active Damping System (ADS) which changes the damping forces according to the
road conditions and the driver's driving style. The road conditions are determined by
vertical acceleration sensors in the body of the vehicle. The horizontal acceleration is
determined by measuring the vehicle speed and turn angle.
Advantages
Higher level of driving safety and ride comfort due to:
Raising vehicle level for poor road surfaces and when negotiating driveways.
Two possible damping levels for comfort or sport driving styles in vehicles produced up
to 08/99.
Three possible damping levels for comfort, sport or extreme sport driving styles in
vehicles produced after 09/99.
Driver information due to:
Function
The functions of the AIRmatic with Adaptive Damping System (ADS) control module are
divided as follows:
Signal conditioning
Function logic component
Safety circuit
Signal conditioning
The following input signals are processed by the function logic component and used for
calculations or to provide information:
ADS II
The control module uses the vertical body acceleration, longitudinal and lateral
acceleration of the vehicle and the ground speed to determine the optimum level of
damping. 4 different damping forces can be set at each wheel by controlling the
damping valves located at each wheel. Phased in as of 09/00, the damping is set
to the Sport 1 damping level if the vehicle speed is >160 km/h.
Compressor control
The compressor is controlled via a relay. Since the compressor is not designed for
continuous operation, the absolute running time and cooling phase are monitored
to avoid overloading the compressor.
Wake-up function
A parked vehicle is "woken up" before the engine is started. That is to say, the AIRmatic
with ADS control module receives signals from the door contact switches, the trunk switch
and infrared remote control indicating that the driver may soon start the engine and drive
the vehicle. The current vehicle level is checked immediately and corrected if required. The
vehicle level at the front axle is considered to be critical, for instance, if the full wheel angle
can no longer be guaranteed. In this case a message appears on the multifunction display
in the instrument cluster to warn the driver: "Stop car too low". If the control module is
woken (for example by opening one of the doors), there follows a period of spare time
before the driver actually starts the engine during which the vehicle level is corrected. This
reduces the waiting time required to correct the vehicle level and the vehicle is ready for
driving more promptly. Pressure in the main reservoir is used to raise the stationary vehicle.
The compressor is only used if the pressure reservoir is empty. It must be ensured that the
battery voltage is sufficient to then start the engine.
Locking function
If the control module detects that all wheels are unloaded when the vehicle is stationary,
the valves of the sprint struts are closed. The vehicle therefore remains at the current level.
This is essential, for example, when changing a wheel or during repair work (lifting
platform).
Safety circuit
The AIRmatic with ADS control module monitors all the important components of the
system after they are switched on and during operation. The safety circuit detects faulty
signals from sensors, faults in the control module and in the electric line system. If a fault is
detected, the system is switched off and a message is displayed on the multifunction
display in the instrument cluster to warn the driver. The damper valves for ADS are no
longer controlled and remain set to the "hard" damping level (driving safety level). In
addition, a fault code is stored in the control module. The level control is partially switched
off depending on the fault that occurred. The system always strives to maintain the selected
vehicle level. Moreover, the safety circuit continuously monitors the battery voltage. If the
voltage falls below 10.5 V or exceeds 17.5 V, the system is switched off until the voltage
returns to the specified range.
Components
Location of electrical/electronic components
A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
A1p13 - Multifunction display
B7 - AIRmatic pressure sensor
B22/3 - Rear axle level sensor
B22/8 - Left front level sensor
B22/9 - Right front level sensor
B24/3 - Left front body acceleration sensor
B24/4 - Right front body acceleration sensor
B24/6 - Right rear body acceleration sensor
K40/7 - Right front fuse and relay module
kO - AIRmatic compressor relay
N49 - Steering angle sensor
N51 - AIRmatic with ADS control module
N72/1s2 - Level control switch
N72/1s3 - Comfort and sport switch
S9/1 - Stop lamp switch
X11/4 - Data link connector
Y36/6 - Level control valve unit
Y51 - Left front axle damping valve unit
Y52 - Right front axle damping valve unit
Y53 - Left rear axle damping valve unit
Y54 - Right rear axle damping valve unit
Location of pneumatic/hydraulic components
40 - Front spring strut
41 - Rear spring strut
42 - AIRmatic central reservoir
A9/1 - AIRmatic compressor unit
Y36/6 - Level control valve unit
Y51 - Left front axle damping valve unit
Y52 - Right front axle damping valve unit
Y53 - Left rear axle damping valve unit
Y54 - Right rear axle damping valve unit
Compressor Relay (K40/7kO)
The Airmatic Compressor Relay (K40/7kO) is located in right fuse box, location 'O' (the first
one next to the three 40 amp fuses). The relay starts and stops the Airmatic compressor. A
faulty relay may cause the compressor to overheat thus damaging it. Hella relays have
proven to be reliable. Part number AR4 007 791-13 (A0025427219).
Airmatic compressor relay in fuse box. Airmatic comressor relay (A0025427219).
The main part of the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) is the compressor motor (m1). The
other parts are the pressure relief valve, overpressure/residual pressure valve (b) and the
air drier (c).
The air filter/cleaner (a) is located outside the compressor unit. It is connected to the unit by
a hose. The air released when the vehicle is lowered is returned to the air filter/cleaner via
the line (g) where it is then guided back out through the filter.
The compressor unit is mounted to a mounting plate (h).
The AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) is fixed at the top of the same mounting
plate as the compressor unit and is connected to the compressor by a pressure line.
The valve unit is attached to the AIRmatic pressure sensor (B7).
Function of AIRmatic Compressor Unit
A9/1 -
AIRmati
c
Compre
ssor
Unit
m1 -
Motor
for air
compre
ssor
y1 -
Pressur
e relief
valve for
AIRmati
c
c - Air
drier
d-
Outlet
valve
E - Inlet
valve
f-
Piston
The air compressor is driven by the compressor motor (m1). The air to be compressed is
sucked out of the vehicle longitudinal member through an air filter/cleaner and into the
chamber underneath the piston. With the downward movement of the piston, the air passes
through the inlet valve (e) in the piston crown into the clearance volume. With the upward
movement of the piston, the inlet valve closes and the air is compressed. The compressed
air is forced on via the outlet valve (d) into the air drier (c).
The silicate filling in the drier removes moisture from the air. From the air drier the
dehumidified and compressed air then passes from the air drier into the central reservoir or
directly to the suspension struts as required.
The pressure relief valve installed in the compressor unit (y1) is required for discharging air
when lowering the vehicle. The discharged air is conducted through the air filter/cleaner
back into the atmosphere. This also cleans the air filter/cleaner.
The air drier is maintenance free. The moisture is delivered back into the air when reducing
the pressure.
Air Filter
It is difficult to get reliable information about the scheduled maintenance interval on the
AIRmatic air filter. W220 community recommends to replace the air filter from time to time
to prevent damage to the AIRmatic compressor. The filter can fill up with debris and salt
which may block the air filter/cleaner. A new AIRmatic air filter costs around EUR 10, and it
should not take more than 20 minutes to replace. For replacement method see the DIY
compressor and filter replacement instructions below.
The air filter is protected with a protective boot (A2203280279). Note: The arrow on the air
filter shows the 'UP' direction and not the direction of air flow which is both ways.
Air filters (new and old).
Six
polyamide
lines lead
from the
AIRmatic
Level
Control
Valve Unit
(Y36/6) to
these
components
connected
at port:
1 - Left
front
spring
strut
2-
Right
front
spring
strut
3 - Left
rear
spring
strut
4-
Right
rear
spring
strut
5-
AIRmati
c
central
reservoi
r
P - Air
compre
ssor
Valve block.
Line designations.
For reasons of safety only one valve is ever actuated at the same time. If an axle is too low,
cycling takes place between the left and right level valve.
Raising the vehicle
The front left, front right, rear left and rear right level valves (y1, y2, y3, y4) are opened as
required and the compressed-air stored in the central reservoir or generated by the air
compressor motor flows from the level control valve unit (Y36/6) to the individual spring
struts.
As soon as the required vehicle level is reached at a front wheel, the respective level valve
(y1 or y2) closes, the other valve still remains open until the same vehicle level has also
been adjusted at the other wheel.
At the rear axle both level control valves (y3 and y4) close when the vehicle level averaged
between the right and left wheel corresponds to the specified level set by the control
module.
Lowering the vehicle
All the wheel level control valves (y1, y2, y3 and y4) are open in the level control valve unit
(Y36/6).
In addition the AIRmatic pressure release valve (y1) in the AIRmatic compressor unit (A9/1)
is open and the compressed-air is reduced via this valve.
At the same time the level valves of the individual wheels remain open until the desired
vehicle level is reached at each front wheel and at the rear axle.
AIRmatic Pressure Sensor (B7)
The AIRmatic Pressure Sensor (B7) is located in the right front fender on the AIRmatic
Level Control Valve Unit. It measures the system pressure and is used to carry out
plausibility checks.
A sensor element compares the fluid pressure (b) to be measured with a reference
pressure (g) in the sensor. The pressure (b) is transmitted to the actual sensor element (h)
by means of a metal protective diaphragm (k) and a silicone oil layer (i).
An electronics module (a) which supplies the pressure signal in the form of an analog
voltage to the control module, is located on the metal housing (d).
The Level Sensors consist of two Hall Effect sensors in a single housing which produce two
signals (redundant design).
Sensor failure is detected by comparing the two redundant signals of each sensor.
Level Sensor Identification
All 3 sensors have the same part number A0105427617 (EUR 150 OE, EUR 70
aftermarket) or A0105427717 (for vehicle with ABC suspension).
Link for rear level sensor A2203200032 (EUR 40).
A common fault is rust on the link of the rear level sensor. The link can be fixed or even
self-made.
Repaired link for rear level sensor. Self-made link for rear level sensor.
The ADS automatically selects the optimum damping for the respective driving conditions.
At the same time the suspension is set to either sporty or regular.
The suspension tuning is set according to:
With increasing speed, ride height is reduced by up to approximately 3/4 in (20 mm).
With decreasing speed, the ride height is again raised to the selected vehicle level.
The selected vehicle level setting remains stored in memory even if the engine is turned off
and restarted. However, the vehicle lowers to regular level when you exceed a speed of 75
mph (120 km/h) or maintain a speed of between 50 mph (80 km/h) and 75 mph (120 km/h)
for more than 5 minutes.
This can be used to raise the vehicle level by 25 mm (20 mm USA). The raised level switch
position is indicated by the red indicator lamp (1) in the switch. In addition, the multifunction
display in the instrument cluster displays: "AIRMATIC VEHICLE RISING".
As long as the multifunction display in the instrument cluster shows the message:
"AIRMATIC VEHICLE RISING", the desired vehicle level has not yet been reached. If the
raising of the vehicle is cancelled due to the driving speed, the instrument cluster displays
the following message for approx. 10s: "AIRMATIC LEVEL SETTING CANCELLED". If the
vehicle is raised several times in quick succession, it may happen that the air compressor
shuts down temporarily in order to prevent an overload. The raising sequence will then take
an unusually long time.
The AIRmatic with ADS Control Module (N51) receives input signals over CAN Bus from
the following components:
Front struts on W220s up to about 2004 did have epoxy installed at the factory. Also many
of the older style front strut have now been modified with mastic or epoxy added. Note: The
epoxy is not the seal for the upper strut. It is a vibration damper to help the narrow neck of
the brass valve at the top of the strut avoid cracking and leaking due to vibration. If you
have a leak in this older style front strut there is a kit you can buy to fix the leak. (see
below.) Scraping out the old black epoxy and filling it back in will not fix this. The part that
leaks is a half metal and rubber cap under the black epoxy and is secured with a metal lock
ring. The newer seals have rubber mastic compound poured in the center to seal the
circumference of the upper metal cap on the upper part of the front strut and to keep the
brass fitting from breaking off.
Oldest style front strut without epoxy. Newest style front strut with mastic.
Left: A2203202138
Right: A2203202238
Rear:
A2203205013
A2203207913 (for option code Z04)
A2203207813 (for option code Z07) (replaced by A2203202338)
A2203202338 (for option code Z07)
OEM (Bilstein):
Since Bilstein is OE manufacturer for W220 AIRmatic struts, it is possible to buy OE struts
directly from Bilstein much cheaper. It is possible to purchase a brand new Bilstein strut for
about EUR 700.
Front left (4Matic): 44-051518
Front right (4Matic): 44-051525
Front: 44-042295
Rear: 44-042301
Arnott:
Arnott sells both new and remanufactured AIRmatic struts. It is possible to get 10%
discount [1] when making an order online.
Arnott claims [2] that their products use an improved double thickness air spring
bag/bladder manufactured by Continental which provides longer lifetime than the OE.
In fact, Arnott provides limited lifetime warranty [3] for their AIRmatic Air Suspension Struts.
Arnott New. Arnott new Air Spring Struts cost about US$624.
Note that with all new Arnott AIRmatic struts you lose the electronic damping feature. While
the new Arnott struts allow to plug in the original wire harness from the car, it simply fools
the AIRmatic computer in to thinking the selective damping is functioning. In reality it is not
and the shock has constant damping setting corresponding to OE "comfort/convenience"
setting ("sport 1" and "sport 2" damping settings are not available).
Mechanical springs:
A mechanical spring version of the complete suspension strut which eliminates the
pneumatic parts can be bought from Strut masters. This requires both sides to be replaced
as a minimum, and possibly all four wheels should be done together. This method uses
clever electronic components to "trick" the W220 computers into sensing that an AIRmatic
is actually installed so that error messages are not displayed. The BIG disadvantage is the
loss of air suspension ride quality, automatic leveling and damping options. In some
countries such modified cars will not pass annual technical inspection.
Y53 Left rear axle damper valve Y51 Left front axle damper valve
(mirror image for Y54). (mirror image for Y52).
Limp-home Function
A malfunction in the adaptive damping system causes the ADS to shut
down. The suspension is switched to the hardest setting. In the event of a
fault in the suspension system or in the level adjustment system, the
vehicle attempts to maintain the set level. Manual and automatic level
adjustments are no longer possible.
AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!
If the vehicle level at the front axle is more than 50 mm (60 mm USA), or at
the rear axle more than 60 mm (70 mm USA) below the normal level, the
multifunction display in the instrument cluster displays the warning:
"AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!".
Error
Description Probable cause
Code
Fault in component
Y53y2 (Left rear
C1325- solenoid valve 2) in
See above.
001 assembly Y53 (left rear
axle damping valve
unit)
Unlike the OE Air Bag/Bladder, re-manufactured ones usually use two ply
rubber design that prevents vertical wear points and the Air Bag/Bladder is
usually over two times thicker than the original one.
It is possible to replace a damaged Air Bag/Bladder (h), however, the
rubber Air Bag/Bladder is attached to the strut tube and strut top with crimp
rings. This requires access to an hydraulic crimper, which is not easily
available for a DIYer.
Fortunately, it is possible to purchase on eBay a refurbished Air Spring
which is the top part of an air suspension strut for around EUR 120 and
mount it to the original damper unit (the lower part of an air suspension
strut).
Air Spring of the front strut. Air Spring of the rear strut.
This requires the Strut to be removed from the car and the Air Spring to be
separated from the Damper unit by partly dismantling the Air Spring. For
the DIY Procedure see section "Replacing the Air Spring in an AIRmatic
Strut".
If the leak is severe, a hissing sound can be heard from the wheel house
area.
A faulty strut can often be located visually by observing the relative heights
of each corner of the vehicle, but be aware that it is very likely that the
wheel on the other side (or the wheel on other axle on the same side) will
also be brought down significantly, but usually to a smaller extent.
To be thorough, an objective test is best performed.
Do not disturb the vehicle for 10 hours. (Ensure the car remains
"asleep" during this time.)
Re-measure the height at each wheel and record the results.
Calculate the drop at each wheel and compare with the specification.
M-B DAS states the drop in vehicle height must be less than 20mm (30mm
in very cold conditions) in 10 hours, ie less than 2mm per hour is allowed.
Top Seals Leaking
The seals at the tops of the front suspension struts develop leaks. This
issue was more common with the older design in the pre '03-ish W220's
compared to those from a few years later. There is available an epoxy
repair kit that can be used to close the cracks. A professional repair costs
around US$550 parts and labor for both sides.
Note the newer W220's post '03 and ones which have been modified with
new replacement parts do not leak at the top seal which is an 'O' ring
around the metal cover disc. The top of the air suspension strut on these
later models is filled with a butyl mastic compound to reduce vibration on
the residual valve inlet connection.
If it is not running, check AIRmatic Fuse and relay (see above). A faulty
relay may cause compressor to run nonstop which will cause compressor
to overheat and blow out the fuse.
Pressure Lines Leaking
The high-pressure line from the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1)to the
AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) develops a leak. In this case
replacement line or a repair joiner can be used.
It is possible that the pressure line to the strut develops cracks or micro
cracks.
In case of front struts the line from valve block to strut can be tested with
spray test.
However, in case of rear struts the line goes from the valve block to rear
through interior and thus is not reachable. A simple test is to run an
alternative line from the valve block to the strut to check if the original line
is faulty (see the section on the line repair).
If the crack is large it may suffice to push air in the line and locate
damaged point by hearing hissing sound.
Level Control Valve Unit Leaking
The AIRmatic Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or valve block on top of
the AIRmatic Compressor Unit (A9/1) fails (very common) and fails to
close some valve.
In this case the pressure will be released back to air compressor and out
of the system.
For how to inspect valve block for leaks see the section "Inspecting level
control valve unit (Y36/6) for leaks".
Usually, in case of valve block leak the vehicle will not be completely
down, since the residual pressure holding valve at the air inlet to the struts
will prevent the pressure dropping below a pressure of 4-5 bar.
If the level sensor reports wrong height the system will think that vehicle
already has the required level and will not raise the vehicle.
Information reported by level sensors can be viewed using DAS.
The next image shows a top, side and bottom comparison of new (Left)
and old (Right) upper mount rubber bushings. Note the difference in height
in the side view.
Top bushing: new vs old.
Note the Upper Mount Rubber Bushing can be replaced without removing
the strut for the car. Do the first steps as shown in the procedure described
in section "Dismantling Front Air Spring".
It appears from inspection of the exploded diagrams for the AIRmatic front
and rear struts that the upper mount rubber bush may be identical for the
front and rear struts. NOTE This is yet to be confirmed.
Individual W220 Upper Mount Rubber Bushings are not readily available.
Only available in lots of 5 on Ali Express [4].
Emergency Procedure
In case of "AIRMATIC STOP, CAR TOO LOW!" warning on the instrument
cluster, the vehicle should be stopped immediately and measures taken.
Possible consequences of riding with leaky strut:
The ride will be little bumpy, but not much harsher than it is when pushing
the button that stiffens the suspension.
Front axle:
Mount limp-home buffer A2203271230 (1a) onto upper transverse control
arm (6). Slowly lower vehicle and make sure that the limp-home buffer
makes contact with top of wheelhouse.
ear axle:
Slide limp-home buffer A2203280839 (1b) in between body fold and
torsion bar (77). The body fold must lie in the groove of the limp-home
buffer. Slowly lower vehicle and make sure that the torsion bar (77) makes
contact with the limp-home buffer (1b).
DIY tips
Depressurise AIRmatic components (suspension struts, valve unit,
reservoir unit) before removal using STAR Diagnosis. WIS states that
components or the entire system must NOT be discharged by
unscrewing pressure line connectors although most DIYers have done
this without problems. Just be sure to open any pressure line
connections slowly to avoid a sudden loss of pressure.
Soiled pressure line connectors must be cleaned before unscrewing.
Mark the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) with the colours of the air
lines BEFORE removing them to avoid having to look up line and port
designations.
Valve block with lines removed.
Seal off the exposed pressure line ports immediately with blind plugs if
possible. A piece of masking tape over the holes is a short term
solution.
Seal off the pressure lines immediately to keep clean by placing the
exposed ends in small plastic bags sealed with tape.
WIS states you must only use flare nut wrenches or special tools to
unscrew the pressure lines, however most DIYers have used 10mm
open ended spanners successfully. Just be careful to not round the
hex head.
Use a high temperature silicon grease such as Permatex 22058
Dielectric Tune-Up Grease to lubricate high pressure pipes, threads
and O-rings. It is also a good idea to apply a small quantity of dielectric
grease to any electrical plugs and sockets when re-installing them.
This helps keep air and moisture away and stops corrosion. It also
makes it infinitely easier to remove the connections next time.
Damaged O-ring.
Replacing one stut at a time is possible as long as the valve block has
no problems. The valve block has a valve for each strut supply pipe
and if the valves remain closed then no air will leak from the other
struts whilst one strut is off. But be warned, if the valve block is faulty
then any of the struts could loose air after releasing the supply line
from a strut.
The Allen head Stub Screws holding the bottom of the front strut use
Loctite thread fastener so a little heat from a gas torch always does the
trick in breaking the sealant.
Do not fully remove the Stub Screw, just unscrew them so that about
five threads are showing. It is very easy to damage the threads when
reinstalling.
DIY Repairs
Before attempting any DIY repairs make sure to read the tips section
above.
After all valve block valves were closed the compressor produced
10.56 bar within 10 secs which is INSIDE the specification of 10 bar
within 40 secs.
After the compressor was turned off the initial compressor pressure
('P' line) = 10.56 bar.
After the 120 elapsed time the final compressor pressure ('P' line) =
5.30 bar.
Thus the measured leakage rate was 5.26 bar in 120 secs which
is OUTSIDE the specified 0.5 bar in 120 secs.
SDS reported that there was a leakage in the 'P' valve or the high
pressure line between the compressor and the valve block.
A squirt of some soapy solution on the high pressure line between the
compressor and the valve block proved that the line and its associated
connectors were not leaking. Thus the fault was a leaky internal 'P' valve in
the valve block. Once the 'P' valve connector was removed from the valve
block, a simple test by applying a soapy finger over the port produced
obvious positive pressure of air escaping from the port, thus confirming the
diagnosis of a leaky internal 'P' valve in the valve block.
Unfortunately the valve block can not be dismantled for inspection and
cleaning and a new Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) was required.
As a comparison, after replacing the Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or
Valve Block with a BRAND NEW OEM part, the following result was
obtained for a leak test of the 'P' valve and line.
After all valve block valves were closed the compressor produced
10.8431 bar within 10 secs which is withing the specification of 10 bar
within 40 secs.
After the compressor was turned off the initial compressor pressure
('P' line) = 10.8431 bar.
After the 120 elapsed time the final compressor pressure ('P' line) =
10.8431 bar.
Thus the measured leakage rate was 0.0 bar in 120 secs which
is INSIDE the specified 0.5 bar in 120 secs.
2. Leak test between valve block and central reservoir.
As another example the following result was obtained for a leak test
between valve block (Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6)) and central
reservoir for a FAULTY Level Control Valve Unit (Y36/6) or Valve Block.
Common failure mode of the level control valve unit (Y36/6) is when some
valves fail to close thus releasing the air out of system through the P valve
or through other valves back to struts.
Here's how to do a test for an internal leak:
1-
Press
ure
line
conne
ction
2-
Intake
hose
with
air
filter
3-
Conn
ector
for air
comp
resso
r
motor
A9/1 -
AIRm
atic
comp
resso
r unit
A9/1y
1-
AIRm
atic
press
ure
reduc
tion
valve
Line Repair
For the location and routing of the AIRmatic air lines see above.
If you have diagnosed a leak in any of the AIRmatic pneumatic lines, the
repair options are to:
Cut out the failed section and reconnect using an in-line joiner.
Replace the failed section of air line with a M-B repair kit (5 ft length
only available).
Replace the complete air line with an aftermarket high pressure
flexible nylon pneumatic line.
Bypass the complete air line with an aftermarket high pressure flexible
nylon pneumatic line.
The air lines to the rear struts go through the interior and it may be difficult
to find the leak unless the crack is large enough so that the crack can be
located thanks to a loud hissing sound. Alternative line can be run from
front valve block to the rear to test if the line is faulty.
Alternative line connected to the rear
Alternative line running to the rear.
strut.
Repairable front
Picture 1: Air spring Picture 3: Pull the
strut damage
plunger (7) Picture 2: Grasp air spring plunger
(leaking air between
separated from the the air spring (7) downwards by
the air spring
support bearing plunger (7) with the hand and press
plunger (7) and the
(conical shape at hand. onto the support
support bearing).
the bottom). bearing.
Fill the air spring (using the DAS or other means), and in the process
pull the air spring plunger (7) downwards firmly by hand so that the air
does not escape between the air spring plunger and the Damper
support bearing (picture 2 and 3).
Once the suspension strut is filled, carry out the leak test on the head
bearing and repair if necessary. A repair kit is available for this
purpose.
After using the repair kit proceed as described above when filling the
air suspension strut (picture 2 and 3) ie pull the air spring plunger (7)
firmly downwards by hand so that the air does not escape between the
air spring plunger and the support bearing.
Repair Options - Leaking Front Strut
If the head bearing is not leaking and the plunger is fully seated on the
support bearing then the options are to;
TIP: Do not fully remove the stub screws, just unscrew them so that about five
threads are showing.
Loctite can be added to the exposed threads before installation. (Note: It is very
easy to strip the thread when starting the stub screws in dirty holes on an old
damper unit. Not completely removing the stub screws during disassembly
eliminates this problem. If a stub screw mangles the start of a thread, remove the
Air Strut to a work bench and thoroughly clean the threads on both holes. They will
be full of old Loctite sealer. Then screw a stub screw into the 'good' side and keep
screwing it all the way through until it comes out the far side, and in the process
reshaping the mangled thread. Do this a couple of times and the stub screw should
then start properly. It is far easier to start the stub screws on a work bench than
when in the car.)
3. Remove the AIRmatic Multi-electrical plugs X62/6 or X62/7. (Note:
WIS says to press down on the spring retaining clip to release the
Multi-Electrical Connectors.) The next Figure shows what the
Multi-Electrical Connectors and their Spring Retaining Clip look
like.
6. Undo the upper control arm ball joint nut (17mm) until it reaches
the end of its thread and leave in place to protect the thread.
7. Use a ball joint separator tool to remove the upper control arm ball
joint.
8. Remove the pressure airline from the head of the strut (10mm).
9. Wrap the exposed airline connector in a plastic bag to protect the
end of the airline from contamination. (Note: observe the 'O'-ring
on the connector.)
10. Remove the three upper mounting nuts (13mm) at the strut head.
11. Remove the strut. If you are lucky the old strut will pretty much fall
out, especially if it has collapsed.
Installation
Re-read the tips section before starting, especially the tip about installing
the stub screws in the damper unit BEFORE installing in the car and the
use of dielectric grease on O-rings and electrical connectors.
17. Lower the jack partly until the car is at normal vehicle height.
(Note: lower vehicle until distance axle centre to lower edge of
fender is about 400mm.)
18. Start the engine and wait for at least two minutes for everything to
stabilise.
19. If necessary align the bellows. You may have to take the wheel off
again to do this step. If the Air Spring bellows and plunger have
separated from the conical support bearing on the Damper Unit
they must be aligned correctly. The technique is described fully
above. In summary, press the bellows upwards towards the top to
remove any crinkles. Then pull it fully downwards and press it onto
the conical support bearing.
20. From the cockpit press the Level Control Switch (N72/1s2) to raise
the vehicle.
21. The car should lift off the jack.
22. Remove the jack.
23. From the cockpit press the Level Control Switch (N72/1s2) to
lower the car to the normal height.
24. Torque the three strut upper mounting nuts [20Nm].
Tutorials
Excellent replacement tutorials for the front struts are available here:
Front Air Spring Replacement (by Front Air Shock Removal and Installation
David Prokity). (by Arnott).
http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/
E4-WM5-Y328A00_01.pdf (DE/EN)
http://info.bilsteinus.com/mercedes/ (videos)
Replacing Rear Axle Spring Strut (41)
If a replacement Rear Axle Spring Strut (41) has been procured it is quite
an easy task to swap them over. Ref: WIS AR32.25-P-1016I (MODEL 220
except CODE (487) Active Body Control (ABC))
Parts Designations
Removal
22. Loosen the inner bolted connection (1) of spring control arm (72)
to axle carrier. (This allows the Spring Control Arm to easily swing
out of the way for the strut removal.) Installation: [Bolt and nut
Inner spring control arm to axle carrier spec. 50Nm + 90 degrees.]
23. Undo the nut on the bolted connection rear strut to spring control
arm (2) of suspension. Note: Any residual pressure in the strut will
prevent the bolt from being removed. Installation: Ensure rear axle
is horizontal (either by jacking under the rear brake disc with the
wheel removed and measuring distance between lower edge of
fender and centre of axle (about 360mm) or by lowering vehicle to
ready to drive height) before torquing connection rear strut to
spring control arm (2) of suspension. [Nut, rear strut to spring
control arm torque spec. 110Nm]
24. Undo the nut on the outer spring control arm to wheel carrier
bolted connection. Any residual pressure in the strut will prevent
the bolt from being easily removed. Installation: Ensure rear axle is
horizontal (either by jacking under the rear brake disc with the
wheel removed and measuring distance between lower edge of
fender and centre of axle (about 360mm) or by lowering vehicle to
ready to drive height) before torquing connection outer spring
control arm to wheel carrier. [Nut, outer spring control arm to
wheel carrier torque spec. 120Nm]
25. Jack the spring control arm slightly to remove the pressure on the
spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted connection. If there is no
residual pressure in the strut the bolt can be released just by
wriggling the wheel carrier.
26. Remove the bolt for the spring control arm to wheel carrier bolted
connection.
27. Lower the jack just enough to remove the pressure on the spring
control arm caused by the strut.
28. Remove the bolt for the rear strut to spring control arm connection.
29. Lower the jack which will allow the spring control arm (72) to swing
out of the way.
30. Remove the strut assembly (41) from the car by lowering it and
pulling it out to the side.
Installation
Rear Air Shock Removal and Rear Air Shock Removal and
Installation (by Arnott). Installation (by Arnott).
5. Tighten the central nut to the plate from the inside and this will
wind down the bolt pushing the Air Spring top metal disc inwards
slightly releasing the snap ring.
The next two figures show the inside view of the Top Seal Metal Disc Cover with 'O'
ring (with part number 220 328 06 21 or 2203280621 just visible in the second
figure). (Note: a new Top Seal Metal Disc Cover and a new 'O' ring are provided in
the top seal kit, see below. A new Top Seal Metal Disc Cover and a new 'O' ring are
often provided with a new/refurbished Air Spring.)
9. Inspect the inside of the top of the Front Strut for any sharp edges
or burrs and remove if required.
10. Drill a 4mm hole and if necessary insert a screw or similar device
part way into the nylon plug which can then be pulled out. (Note: a
new nylon plug is available with part number TBD.)
This is what the inside of the Top of the Front Strut looks like after removing the
nylon plug.
11. Use an air impact driver to undo the lock nut on the top of the
damper piston rod (e). (Note: unfortunately it is essential to use an
impact wrench as the piston rod in the damper unit can not be
restrained from turning. The impact wrench shocks the nut
undone.)
12. Remove the complete air spring from the damper unit.
13. From the inside of the Air Spring use a long piece of rod or tubing
to press out the upper mount rubber bush.
The next figures show what the upper mount rubber bush looks like from several
views. This part came from a 2003 update model W220 S500L.
Outside view of the top of a Front Air Spring with the upper mount rubber
bush removed. This part came from a 2003 update model W220 S500L.
Inside of the top of a Front Air Spring with the upper mount rubber bush
removed.
The yellow arrow points to the hole going through the upper mount
rubber bush for the damper piston rod (e).
The blue arrow points to the inside of the Air Spring for the rubber air
bellows (h).
The red circle shows the threaded brass air inlet to the Air Spring.
Reassembly Front Air Suspension Strut (40)
1. Fasten the air bag/bladder (h) to the strut top using the 1st crimp
ring.
The next Figures show the steel support ring for the lower strut tube (a), which
provides support for the 2nd or lower crimp ring.
2. Install the strut tube (a) into the air bag/bladder and secure with
the 2nd crimp ring.
The next Figure shows the rubber air bag/bladder which is mounted on the outside
of the strut tube (a) and is held in place by metal crimp rings.
Notes:
The bottom end or plunger of the lower strut tube (a) is tapered which is for
sealing to the support bearing on the damper unit.
Note: the Airmatic strut can leak air from the bottom of the lower section if not
seated against the rubber of the damper unit correctly.
3. Check the Seal between the damper and the air spring.
The next Figure shows the bottom air spring to damper seal open and fully seated.
5. Install the protective boot/bellows to the top dust seal alloy cover.
6. Thoroughly clean the damper unit before it is fitted into the air
spring.
The next Figure shows a close-up of the strut damper with the bump stop buffer (i)
and bump stop cover. The damper is fitted after the air spring has been assembled.
It slides through the strut top and then has the upper mount rubber bush and nut
fitted followed by the nylon cover and then the top metal disc cover and lock ring.
Note the large conical rubber support bearing which provides the air spring to
damper seal.
8. The next two figures show the metal disc cover with the 'O' ring
installed (TIP: use silicon grease to ensure it is leak free) and the
lock ring ready to be fitted using the strut top seal tool.
9. Install the residual pressure holding valve (k) using the commercial
tool or DIY modified spanner.
10. Support the strut vertically and fill the top of the strut with a black
butyl mastic to reduce vibration damage to the air inlet valve.
TIP: If a pour-able butyl mastic can not be sourced, Sika manufacture a range of
butyl mastic sealers which can be extruded in thin layers (5mm thick). Use a
spatula to smooth the layer evenly and then leave it to set. Repeat the layering
process until the cavity is filled. The result is not as neat as the OEM but it does the
job. If required the extruded layers technique can be done with the Air Strut
installed in the car as the compound is quite viscous and will not run.
A Top Seal Repair Kit (Includes: Steel Cap, Brass Valve, and Spring Clip)
is available with part number; A220 320 25 38 or A2203202538.