02 Czech & Slovak Republics (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides) (2011) PDF
02 Czech & Slovak Republics (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides) (2011) PDF
02 Czech & Slovak Republics (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides) (2011) PDF
STARE MSTO
AND JOSEFOV 70
NOVE MSTO 86
FURTHER AFIELD
98
STREET FINDER 106 The Morava river flowing at the foot of Devn Castle in Bratislava
EAST BOHEMIA
194
NORTH MORAVIA
AND SILESIA 212
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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22. by appointment. 7am &
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visitor should miss.
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Detailed Information
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
symbols is on the back flap.
H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7
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Regional Map
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GETTING AROUND
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
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related topics.
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Detailed Information
3All major cities, towns and
Hlavn 67. Tel (051) 773 11 13. 4>?307,?0
?3.09?@=D$09,4> $@?3094,948842=,9?>.,80
?3.09?@=D town hall,??30
www.pis.sk >,9.0 Rakoczy Palace9:B, 1=:8?3090423-:@=492A477,20 9?30,@?@89:1
?30 .09?=0:1?30><@,=03,>
Regional MuseumI,=4O>6L :1 46:AJ&30 Warhol ,??70:1@67,#,>>B,> $09,4>>,9.0B49/:B>,9
%7:A,64,>?34=/7,=20>??:B94> 8PE0@8 &30>@-@=-:1 Family Museum of Modern 1:@23?,2,49>??30!,E4>90,= :=407,9/>?:90;:=?,7>&30?:;
14=>?30,=/:149
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are listed in order, following :849,?492?30?:B9>
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:?34. Church of St Nicholas
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Warhol Family Museum
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Ukraine-Ruthenian
Culture PE0@8
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ari Muzeum
Radnin nmestie 48.
Road map E3. 16 km (10 miles) N of
Kemarok. 3,000. Nmestie
Marinske 3. Tel (052) 439 12 05.
the numbering on the Regional >?=00?7,A9J?3,>8,29414 %7:A,64, &307:.,7,??=,.?4:9> of Modern Art 6@7?P=D3,>,=?41,.?>:1 Tel (054) 472 49 66.
A Warhola 749/26. Tel (057) 748 MaySep: daily;
.09? :?34.;,49?492>,9/ 49.7@/0?307:A07D=0>0=A:4= 00 72. TueSun.
?30 =006,?3:74. &34>>8,77?:B949?30#:;=,/
OctApr: TueSun.
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?3.09?@=D3423,7?,= %0,>@==:@9/0/-D.,8; :1?308@>0@8:9, 2:492-,.6?:
??30
important sights.
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>3:B49!0B *:=6 9,-:@?
30 Centrlna 258. Tel (054) 788 21 34>?:=4.>423?4>?30A,>?!0: /0.:=,?0/,??4.4>1=:8
>?,=?0/?:;,49?;4.?@=0>:10A0=D/,D 00. TueSun. www.muk.sk DE,9?490 Lutheran Church &3090,=-D84/
?3.09?@=D
:-50.?>-,969:?0>80?=:?4.60?> Skansen !:AQ0A,95074.6Q6:>?:7 Piarist Church and Monastery
,9/.42,=0??0>00C0.@?0/34> Nad Svdnickym Amfitetrom. B:=6:1?30(40990>0,=.34?0.? 3,A0,949?0=0>?49234>?:=D
B:=6>B4?3?30;=0.4>4:9:1,9 Tel (054) 752 29 52. MayOct: &30:;347A:9,9>09? :=?3=00.09?@=40>?30
477@>?=,?:=:1?09.3::>492 daily. .:9?,49>?308,@>:70@8:1 8:9,>?0=DB,>3:80?:?30
,/A0=?4>4928:?41>1:=34>?:;4.> :@9? 8=0&3N6N7D30=::1 #4,=4>?.:770201:@9/0/-D?30
4>8:>?1,8:@>B:=6>49.7@/0 Environs @92,=4,9,9?4,->-@=2 -,47411:1%;4O 9
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?30
Statue of Andy Warhol in ?30B4/07D.:;40/>0=40>:1 ??30@67,#,>> 68
49>@==0.?4:9> 9 :88@94>?>?@=90/4?-=4017D
Medzilaborce ;:=?=,4?>:1 ,=47D9 :9=:0 Screen of icons in the Church of 8470>9:=?3:1%A4/9M64>?30 .:9?=,>??30:7/Protestant 49?:,.:9.09?=,?4:9.,8;1:=
" $ ! % ! " # " $ Holy
the Spirit in Medzilaborce Czechoslovak Army Monument Church=0A09Q6:>?:7 %7:A,68:96>
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
VISITORS CHECKLIST
!&"'!%%+
3*4+9-*94<382489).89.3,:.8-*) .-%,"%"' Nmestie Majstra Pavla.
':.1).3,89-*94<3-&117&)3.(&<&8 Tel (053) 451 24 49. Fax (053)
*+/",'++,(
451 28 24. 9am5pm daily.
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Spi Museum exhibition in
town hall 9am5pm daily.
www.snm.sk
For all major sights a Visitors
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5*).2*398<*7*&))*).39-*
9-(*39:7>#-*94<3-&11
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information you need when
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Road map E3. 56 km (35 miles) W
of Preov. 14,000.
Nmestie Majstra Pavla 58. Tel (053)
451 37 63. www.levoca.sk
'7&3(-4+9-*"5.E:8*:243
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7*,.43&1-.8947>
planning your visit.
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Major Sights
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devoted to each major sight.
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STAR SIGHTS
Arcades
the principal sights marked
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SOUTH BOHEMIA
The colourful faade of the Neo-Renaissance Town Hall in Prachatice, South Bohemia
D I S C O V E R I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 11
Nysa
A18
u.
The Czech Republic lies at the heart of Central Europe, D4
sharing borders with Germany, Poland and Austria, as 4
well as Slovakia. Comprising the regions of Bohemia in 6
the west and Moravia in the east, the country covers an
area of 78,865 sq km (30,499 sq miles), of which some 30
80 per cent is made up of mountains and highlands; the
highest peak is Snka (1,602 m/5,256 ft), in the
Krkonoe Mountains of East Bohemia. The Czech Dn
Liberec
Republic has around 10.3 million inhabit- 13
10
ants, more than 1 million of whom Teplice
35
live in the capital, Prague.
15 Terezin 38
13
Jiin
92
D8
atec 7
10
Karlovy Vary
32
(El Labe
be
)
A93
R6 11
PRAGUE (PRAHA)
Cheb D11
303
12
21 nk a
20 erou
D5
B
C Z
38
A93
D5
D1
Plze
26
R E 3 P U
14
20
A6 Klatovy 19
29 Jihlava
27
Tabor
A93
D3
34
GERMANY V
ltav
23
a
A3
20
Regensburg
esk Budjovice 34
24
3 8
A9
A3
A92
4
8
EUROPE FINLAND
Da
nu
NORWAY be
(Do
ESTONIA na
125
SWEDEN u)
REPUBLIC LATVIA
OF
UNITED DENMARK Linz
IRELAND LITHUANIA
KINGDOM RUSSIA
129 Sankt
Plten
NETHERLANDS BELARUS
ATLANTIC BELGIUM GERMANY POLAND Wels
OCEAN LUXEMBOURG Prague A1
CZECH REP. UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
FRANCE A1
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
HUNGARY Enns 20
SLOVENIA
ROMANIA
A9
CROATIA
PORTUGAL ANDORRA BOSNIA AND
SPAIN
CORSICA
HERZEGOVINA
MONTENEGRO
KOSOVO
SERBIA
BULGARIA A U S T R I A
MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
SARDINIA ITALY 14
GREECE 5
Liezen
6
MOROCCO ALGERIA
14
TUNISIA
A9
P U T T I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C O N T H E M A P 13
3
PRAGUE AND ITS ENVIRONS
5
A4 Neratovice
Kralupy Lab
16 e (E
Odra nad Vlt. D8 lbe
) Brands
Slan nad Labem
Kostelec Stara Bolesla
8
240
Legnica Libice 9 nad Labem
nad Vlt.
A4 Wrocaw
Kladno Roztoky 8 elkovice
7
10
94
35 D11
A4
6 12
3 valy
Wabrzych
D5 2
P O L A N D D1
any
R1
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0 kilometres 10 4
a
35
3
Sza
va
0 miles 5
Hradec Krlov
35
78
Sobotin
1
11
37
Opava
E C H 11
Ostrava
Bielsko
B L I C
56
D1 -Biaa
35 ra Frdek
35
Od 48
11
-Mstek
Olomouc
D1 Perov 35
46
11
M
23 Zln
or
Brno ilina
h
av
50
a
18
52
38
50 Martin
D1
53
D2
55
59
Hodonin Trenn
Znojmo
S L O V A K I A
2
Vh
Hollabrun
D1
on
D2
65
Hr
7
Trnava
66
A21 51
Nitra
VIENNA D1
A4
A1 0 kilometres 40
A21 BRATISLAVA
9
0 miles 20
A6
KEY
A3
50
A2
Eisenstadt Airport
Neusiedler M
1 Motorway
See
Gyor
306 Major road
Railway line
H U N G A R Y International border
A2
a
Rab
I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 15
A PORTRAIT OF THE
CZECH REPUBLIC
T
he Czech Republic has blossomed into a vibrant and
fascinating place to visit in the post-Communist era.
Bohemia and Moravia, neglected under the Communists,
now delight visitors with their picturesque towns and cities, well-
preserved palaces and castles, and magnificent scenery.
The view from the terrace of the caf in Stekov Castle, North Bohemia
PUBLIC VERSUS
PRIVATE
For the Czech people,
spending time with
family and friends is of
paramount importance.
We e k e n d s i n t h e The historic Park Colonnade in the spa town of Karlovy Vary
country are popular,
but the most important venues for literary version of Czech (spisovn
socializing are restaurants, pubs and etina), used in public life, exists
bars. Here, it is easy to strike up a side by side with the colloquial
conversation with local people. version (hovorov etina), which
Visitors shouldnt hesitate to ask if has a different grammar; the latter is
they can join a group of friends at a used on private occasions by all
communal table; indeed, this is social groups.
common practice. Czechs are well- The dramatic changes experienced
educated, and are often well- in the last decade or so have not
informed about foreign events and entirely removed the Czech penchant
politics. It is rare, however, to be for retrospection and a nostalgic cult
invited into a Czech home, which is of old things. An attachment to
regarded as a persons oasis of privacy. favourite clothes, places and customs
The dualism of Czech society is occasionally takes on unusual forms.
also reflected in its language. The Nowhere else in Europe will you see
so many long-haired men who
appear to have been transported
straight from the 1960s and 70s.
MOUNTAINS HIGHLANDS
Most of the mountains in the Czech Republic Much of the country is made up of the so-
are lower than 800 m (2,625 ft). The highest called Bohemian-Moravian Highlands plateau
are the aptly named Krkonoe (Giant) (eskomoravsk Vysoina), which consists of
Mountains in East Bohemia, and it is only schist and granite and is furrowed by the
here that sub-alpine and alpine flora can be valleys of the Vltava and Morava, the Czech
found. The other mountain ranges include Republics two main rivers, and their tributa-
the umava, an unpopulated wilderness in ries. Its upper sections are covered in forest,
South Bohemia, and the White Carpathians while the lower parts are where crops such
(Bl Karpaty) in South Moravia. as rye are cultivated and cattle are bred.
The peach-
leaved bell-
The kingcup, with its showy flower is a beautiful
golden-yellow flowers, appears in species which grows
early spring; it favours damp primarily in oak or
habitats, such as meadows and hornbeam forests; it
the banks of streams and ponds. flowers in early summer.
20 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C
Religious Architecture
The two most momentous periods in
the development of Czech religious
architecture were the medieval and
Baroque eras. The peak of these two
architectural heydays were, respectively,
the second half of the 14th century and
the 18th century (the Late-Baroque era).
In between, vicious religious wars in
the 15th and 17th centuries seriously
affected new architectural development,
and also caused brutal damage to Basilica of St Procopius in Teb, an example of
many medieval churches. Czech Baroque architecture
ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE
The oldest churches in the Czech Republic date from the 9th
century. The styles developed during this period culminated in
the flowering of Romanesque architecture in the 11th to 13th
centuries. Romanesque churches fell into three main categories:
rotundas, simple hall churches and triple-aisle basilicas with
apses. Sadly, few of these buildings, which were often quite
opulent with rich architectural details, have survived intact.
St Georges
Basilica in
Prague (see
pp567), begun in
the 10th century,
was altered often
and even partially
rebuilt. However,
it remains the The Rotunda of St Catherine
best-preserved in Znojmo (see p238) is
Romanesque one of Moravias few
basilica in the Romanesque churches to
Czech Republic. have escaped alteration.
St Bartholomews
Cathedral in Plze (see The church in Zlat
pp1645), built from the Koruna (see p156), attached
13th to 16th centuries, to the Cistercian monastery,
has massive columns dates from the mid-14th
supporting classic Gothic century and was worked on
vaulting above the nave. by Peter Parler.
A PORTRAIT OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC 21
BAROQUE ARCHITECTURE
The Baroque period was the last great phase in Czech
religious architecture. Following the destruction of the Thirty
Years War, a massive rebuilding campaign was launched in
Bohemia. In the 17th century the architects of the new style
were mainly from Italy, but they were later superseded by
more local builders, mainly Germans and Austrians with a
few Czechs. Most talented among them were the Bavarian
Christoph Ignaz Dientzenhofer
and his son Kilian. They helped
to develop the new internal
layout of churches, based on
interlocking geometrical figures.
This spatial sophistication was
accompanied by opulent furnish-
ings, stuccowork and frescoes.
Often executed by top sculptors
and painters, the exuberance of
the decoration reached a peak in The Church of St Nicholas in
the Late-Baroque era. Mal Strana, in Prague (see
pp645), the work of Christoph
The Church of St Mary and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer,
Magdalene in Karlovy Vary is one of the most innovative
(see pp1745), designed by churches of the time in Europe,
Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, was with its flowing lines and
built in the 1730s. Inside are the flamboyant colours. The
original fine sculptures and a floorplan of the nave consists of
beautiful main altarpiece. a series of interlocking ellipses.
The hospital-
church complex in
Kuks (see p210) was
designed by Italian-
born G B Alliprandi
in 170710. In front
of the hospital is a
terrace with sculptures
by Tyrolean sculptor,
Matthias Braun.
The Church of
the Most Sacred
Heart in Vinohrady,
Prague, built in
192832, was so
shockingly modern The Church of St Wenceslas in
in its day that it was Prague-Vrovice was designed in 1929
almost Post-Modern. by the Czech architect Josef Goar, a
It was the work of the leading exponent of the avant-garde.
Slovenian architect, The concrete structure, dominated by a
Josip Plenik. tall bell-tower, is denuded of decoration.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C
Czech Music
The Czech Republic has a rich, largely
home-grown musical heritage. Psalms
written as long ago as the 13th century
used the Czech language. It was
nationalism which, centuries later,
inspired Bedich Smetana and Antonn
Dvok, the most famous of the
Sign on violin- unusually large number of composers
makers house to emanate from this small country.
The
voluptuous
gown shows
a masterful
portrayal of
movement.
Intricate floral
decoration
Soft, flowing
lines typical of
Art Nouveau
ALFONS MUCHA
Among the most outstanding exponents
of the European Art Nouveau, Alfons
Mucha (18601939) developed an
instantly recognizable style. Typical
subjects of his numerous paintings and
posters were female figures: graceful,
enigmatic and full of hidden symbols.
Those shown here represent Dance
and Music.
This Baroque
cupboard was
built of walnut and
oak by Frantiek
Maximilin Kaka
(16741766) in
c.1740. It is now Toyen (190280) was a founding
in the library inside member of the Czech Surrealist movement
the Clementinum in the 1930s. Marie ermnov took
(see p82) in Prague. on the cryptic pseudonym Toyen in
order to disguise her gender.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C
MAY
SEPTEMBER
AUTUMN
Dance Bohemia (early Sep),
Autumn is generally long Prague. Global festival open
and mild, and the weather is to amateur dance folklore
normally pleasant ensembles from all
until early over the world.
November. The International
new cultural Tuba Competition
season begins, with (3rd week in Sep),
theatres, concert Brno, South
halls and opera Moravia. Part of
houses reopening Brnos International
after the summer Music Festival, with
break. Grape year-round events. Performers in costume, Prague
harvest festivals International Autumn music festival
are held in wine- Poster promoting Brnos Theatre Festival
making districts, September tuba competition (2nd half of are performed on the organs
such as Moravia. Sep), Plze, of Olomoucs Church of St
Forests all over West Bohemia. Theatre Maurice (see p216).
the country are invaded by groups from all over
armies of mushroom-pickers, Europe perform. OCTOBER
since gathering fungi is the Organ Festival, Olomouc,
favourite autumn activity of North Moravia. Works by The Great Pardubice
many Czechs. Czech and foreign composers Steeplechase (2nd Sun),
Pardubice, east of Prague.
This famous horse race,
first held in 1874 and run on
Pardubice steeplechase
course, is one of the most
difficult of its kind in Europe.
Day of the Republic (28
Oct). Despite the splitting
up of Czechoslovakia in
1993, the anniversary of the
founding of the independent
republic in 1918 remains a
public holiday.
NOVEMBER
WINTER
F
rom the middle ages until the 17th century the Czech Lands
played a significant role in European history. Defeat at the start
of the Thirty Years War, however, marked the beginning of three
centuries of domination by the Habsburgs. The joint state of Czecho-
slovakia, founded after World War I, came to an end in 1993.
The Latin name of Bohemia emperor invited Byzantine
derives from the Boii, one of missionaries to spread
the two Celtic tribes who, Christianity in the Slavic
from the 3rd century BC, language. The two monks,
settled in the territories of the the so-called Apostles to the
present-day Czech Republic. Slavs, were later canonized as
Towards the end of the 1st St Cyril and St Methodius.
century BC, the Celts were
dislodged by two Germanic THE PEMYSLID DYNASTY
tribes, the Quadi and the Following the fall of the
Marcomanni. They inflicted Bronze head of a Moravian empire, brought
several defeats on the Celtic goddess about by a Magyar invasion
Romans who, as a result, in 906, a new political
decided not to extend their empire centre emerged in Bohemia under
beyond the Danube. In the end, it the Pemyslid princes. One of the
was tribes from the east who dis- dynastys early rulers, Prince (St)
placed the Germanic tribes in the 5th Wenceslas, improved his states
and 6th centuries. In the 7th century relations with Germany but was
Bohemia and Moravia were briefly murdered by his brother Boleslav in
part of a vast Slav state ruled by the 935. Under Boleslav, Bohemia
Frankish merchant, Prince Samo. became part of the Holy Roman
Empire. In 973 a bishopric (subordi-
THE GREAT MORAVIAN EMPIRE nate to the archbishopric of
The early 9th century saw the rise of Mainz) was founded in Prague. The
the Moravians. They forged an murder of Bishop Adalbert, who
alliance with the Slavs of Bohemia, became the first Czech-born Bishop
and thus the Great Moravian Empire of Prague in 983, stunned Christian
was born. At its peak, in around Europe (see p101).
885, the empire included Bohemia, In 1085 Prince Vratislav II received
Moravia, Silesia and parts of modern from Holy Roman Emperor Henry
Slovakia, Germany and Poland. In IV the (non-hereditary) title of king.
response to German ambitions in He thus became the first crowned
the region, the second Moravian ruler of Bohemia.
TIMELINE
Saints Cyril and Methodius 9th century
Foundation 1085 Coronation
c.167 Invasion of Roman 450 The Slavs of the Great of Vratislav II, first
territory by the Quadi and begin moving Moravian king of Bohemia
Marcomanni into the region Empire
600 BC 1 AD 400 AD 800 AD 1100 AD
863 The Byzantine monks, Cyril and
c.500 BC Celtic Boii 45 AD Methodius, arrive in Moravia Bishop
inhabit territory of Establishment of the Adalberts
present-day Roman province of bejewelled
Bohemia Noricum, south of 983 Adalbert becomes first Czech- glove
the Danube born Bishop of Prague
TIMELINE
1355 Charles
1346 John of IV crowned 1434 Hussites
Luxemburg killed Holy Roman defeated at
in the Battle of Emperor Crucifix given to Charles IV Battle of
Crcy by Pope Urban V in 1368 Lipany
1350 1400
1415 Jan Hus burned at the stake
1348 Founding of Prague
1344 Establishment University 142031 Emperor Sigismund
of Prague launches five crusades against
archbishopric 1346 Charles IV crowned King of Bohemia the Hussites
36 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C
The Hussites
In the 15th century, the followers of Jan Hus
became a major fighting force. They achieved
great successes against the Emperors crusades,
due largely to the skill of their leader, Jan ika.
The Hussites split into the radical Taborites and
the moderate Utraquists (from sub utraque
specie, symbolizing the wish to celebrate Mass
with both bread and wine). While the former
were finally beaten at Lipany in 1434, the
Utraquists recognized papal supremacy in Burning of Jerome of Prague
return for consent for the Czech language to Jerome of Prague, the Czech
be used in church. The Utraquists were active theologian and supporter of Jan Hus
until the Battle of the White Mountain in 1620. and John Wycliffe, was burned at the
stake in 1416. He was condemned for
heresy by the Council of Constance.
Sigismund of
Luxemburg
Boosted by papal
support, Emperor
Sigismund (1368
1437) launched five
crusades against
the Hussites. They
all ended in failure.
Satan Disguised as
the Pope GODS WARRIORS
This type of lurid The early 16th-century Codex
image, satirizing the of Jena illustrated the Hussites
corrupt Church victories. Here, the Hussites,
and the excessively who included artisans, urban
free lifestyle of priests, merchants and minor nobility,
was painted on are shown singing their hymn.
placards and carried They are led by their blind
through the streets. leader, Jan ika.
T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 37
Hussite Victory
REFORMER JAN HUS
(1420)
In the Battle of Vitkov Jan Hus was one of the most
important religious thinkers
the Hussites, led by
of his day. His objections to
Jan ika, won a the Catholic Churchs corrupt
victory over the practices and opulent life-
Catholic army of style were shared by many
Emperor Sigismund. Czechs peasants and
nobles alike. His reformist
preaching in Prague earned
him a huge following and
The chalice was an was noticed by the Papacy,
important symbol which excommunicated him.
for the Hussites, In 1414 Hus decided to
who demanded the defend his teaching at the
right to take wine Council of Constance. Even
at Mass. though he had received a
Farm implements
guarantee of safe conduct
were used as make-
from Emperor Sigismund,
shift weapons by the
Hus was imprisoned and
peasants.
burned at the stake in 1415.
The peasant
army marched
behind Jan ika.
Hussite Shield
Wooden shields like
this one bearing the
arms of Prague were
used to fill any gaps in
the tight formations of
military wagons.
Taborite Wagon
Hussite armies struck
terror in the whole of George of Podbrady
Europe. They employed In 1458 Czech nobles
new methods of elected a Utraquist
combat, including the George of Podbrady as
use of reinforced king. The first and last
battle wagons. Hussite king, he
reigned until 1471.
38 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C
THE JAGIELLONIAN
DYNASTY
In compliance with the
late monarchs wishes,
the Czech nobility chose
as their new king the
Polish Prince Vladislav
Jagiello (14711516),
who, in 1490, also
ascended the throne of
Hungary and moved his
capital to Buda (todays
Budapest). The kings
absence was exploited
Illuminated manuscript of sacred music from Kutn Hora (1471) by the Bohemian nobili-
ty to strengthen their
GEORGE OF PODBRADY own political and economic power.
The end of the Hussite wars in 1434 The fortunes of families such as the
and the dying out of the Luxemburg Rosenbergs and Pernsteins grew; they
dynasty were followed by nine years founded new towns and supported
of interregnum, which ended in 1458, agriculture and trade.
when the Czech nobility elected as A treaty concluded at Kutn Hora
their king George of Podbrady between Catholics and Utraquists in
(145871), a moderate Hussite, who 1485 laid the foundation for religious
also enjoyed the approval of the peace that lasted more than half a
Czech Catholics. century. Ideas of humanism per-
The new king of Bohemia, who colated into the Czech Lands, and
represented the reforming spirit and local architects created Late-Gothic
preached religious tolerance, was masterpieces such as Prague Castles
initially accepted by a number of Vladislav Hall (1502).
European monarchs. In 1462 George In 1526 Vladislavs successor, Louis
put forward a plan to establish Jagiello, was killed fighting the Turks
a League of Christian
Monarchs to resist the Turk-
ish expansion. This visionary
proposal did not, however,
meet with approval and the
kings position was
worsened by the hostile
attitude of Rome. In 1466
Pope Paul II excommun-
icated George and called for
a crusade against the Czech
heretics. The ensuing war
ended only with the death of
King George, in 1471. Late 15th-century view of Mal Strana in Prague
TIMELINE
Vladislav Jagiello
T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 39
1620 Czech defeat at the Battle of the White Mountain 1621 Execution of 27
leaders of the uprising
Charter for manglers 1618 Prague defenestration. in Prague
and dyers Outbreak of the Thirty Years War
1550 1575 1600 1625
1556 Arrival of 15761611 Reign 1609 Emperors edict 1648 Peace
Jesuits in the Czech of Rudolph II confirming religious freedom of
Lands and privileges of the Estates Westphalia
A ten-ducat ends the
1575 Maximilian II confirms coin of 1634 Killing of Albrecht von Thirty
religious freedom in Czech Lands Rudolph II Wallenstein Years War
40 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C
TIMELINE
1648 Peace 1781 The Edict of Tolerance allows some freedom of worship
of Westphalia 171140 Reign of Charles VI
signed 178090 Reign of Joseph II
16768 174080
16571705 Vyehrad fortifications Reign of Maria Theresa
Reign of reinforced with new
Leopold I bastions Baroque goblet made of
Czech glass (1730)
T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 41
Coat of arms of
Pragues Old Town
Smetanas
Libue OLD TOWN
Written for CLOCK TOWER CALENDAR
the opening of In 1866 the revolving dial on Pragues
the National famous landmark was replaced by a
Theatre in 1881, new one made by celebrated artist
this opera drew Josef Mnes. Individual months are
on legendary symbolized by scenes from peasant
Czech history. life, corresponding with the signs of
the zodiac painted on medallions.
T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 43
Expo 95 Poster
Vojtch Hynais WHERE TO SEE THE
designed this NATIONAL REVIVAL
Art Nouveau Many fine buildings were
poster for the built during this period in
ethnographic Prague and other major cities;
they include the National
exhibition of 1895. Museum in Prague and
It reflects the new Brnos Mahenovo Theatre.
appreciation of Among the best examples of
regional traditions. Art Nouveau are Pragues
Municipal House (see pp84
Portrait of a Woman 5), with murals by Alfons
A young woman dressed Mucha, and the Modern Art
in traditional costume Gallery building in Hradec
Krlov, designed by Osvald
poses for a portrait in a Polvka (see p199). Pragues
Litomyl studio, in Rudolfinum (see p82) and
c.186070. the National Theatre (see
pp945) both have glorious
interiors by great artists
of the day.
Municipal House in
Prague
The Art Nouveau Mahenovo Theatre, Brno
interior is adorned with Built in 1882, this building
allegories of civic virtues has Corinthian columns and
October by Alfons Mucha. a lavish gilt interior.
Scorpio
CZECHOSLOVAKIA
Thanks to the industry established
under the Habsburgs, Czechoslovakia
flourished economically. However,
the ethnic situation was much more
problematic. The new state had a
diverse population made up of some
6 million Czechs, 2 million Slovaks,
and 3 million Germans, as well as
Assassination of Archduke Ferdinand, 1914 communities of ethnic minorities
including Ukrainians and Hungarians.
THE FIRST WORLD WAR While the Czechs were generally
Few Czechs (or Slovaks) had the content with their new situation, the
appetite to fight for the empire other ethnic groups were much less
during World War I, and it was satisfied with their lot.
during the war that the idea of a joint It was thanks to the skills of Tom
Czech and Slovak state independent Masaryk that Czechoslovakia became
of Austria arose. Its main champion such a progressive and staunchly
was Tom Masaryk, a professor at democratic nation. The new Czecho-
Prague University. In 1916, together slovak constitution ensured that there
with Edvard Bene, he created the was, at least for the moment, peace-
Czechoslovak National Council, ful coexistence among the ethnic
based in Paris, which was later minorities by ensuring that any area
recognized by the Allies as the
representative of the future
Czechoslovakia. In May 1918, in
Pittsburgh, USA, representatives of
Czech and Slovak migr organi-
zations signed an agreement that
provided for the creation of a joint
Czechoslovak state after the war.
The political endeavours were
supported by the military efforts of
Czechs and Slovaks fighting on the
side of the Allies. Czechoslovak
legions fought in Italy, France and Signing of the Pittsburgh Agreement, in 1918
TIMELINE
TIMELINE
1966 Oscar for
1945 The Prague uprising. 194955 Period of Ji Menzels film
End of World War II the most notorious Closely Observed
political trials Trains Alexander
Dubek
1984 Jaroslav Seifert 1997 Oscar for Jan Svrks film Kolya
awarded Nobel Prize 2007 Czech Republic joins
for Literature for his 2004 The Czech the Schengen Agreement,
poetry Republic becomes abolishing border controls
Vclav Havel member of the EU with all of its members
1985 1995 2005 2015
1989 Velvet Revolution.
Vclav Havel becomes 1999 Czech
president Republic joins
NATO Serious floods in the
1993 Czechoslovakia splits. Founding Czech Republic,
of the Czech Republic August 2002
PRAGUE
AREA BY AREA
Prague at a Glance
Most major historic sites in Prague are found in the city
centre within the three districts marked on the map. From
Star Msto (Old Town) and Josefov (Jewish Quarter) it is
only a short distance to Charles Bridge and, beyond, Mal
Strana (Little Quarter), from where a steep uphill climb ends
at Prague Castle and Hradany.
HRADANY AND
MAL STRANA
(pp5269)
St Vituss
Cathedral
houses the Bohemian
crown jewels. These fine
relics, shown rarely in
public, include the St
Wenceslas crown and the
royal orb, pictured (see pp589).
Wallenstein Palace,
a Baroque palace built in the
The Church of St Nicholas, in the centre of Mal 1620s for Count Albrecht von
Strana, is perhaps the most magnificent of the Wallenstein, was intended
many fine examples of Baroque architecture in to outshine Prague Castle
Prague (see pp645). (see p66).
STAR MSTO
AND JOSEFOV
(pp7085)
NOV MSTO
(pp8699)
RAD BY
A
KO
K H
MAR
INS OV
US
J E L E
N TK
HO
R
D B
C
U
PO
N
HRADANY
B R
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A
J EL
US
LEDEBURSK
N
E VO
ZAHRADA
SK K
I
JI
B KO
SK
C
NS
KLROV
N OV
Brusnice
E
K EJ
NSR
S V VI
ERN
V A
T T
VA LD
KO
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KA VALDTEJNSK
R O
NO Malostransk
S N MO V N
NS
NMST
VN
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TOMSK
KAPUC
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HRADANSK
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ZAHRADA
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SCHNBORNSK MALTZSK
LOBKOVICK ZAHRADA NMST
VELKOPEVORSK
V l t a v a
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Street-by-Street map
N
PETNSK
See pp545
MAL OSTR
SADY
The closely packed rooftops above the narrow streets of Mal Strana
54 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
To Royal Presidents
Gothic reliquary of Garden office
St Georges arm in
St Vituss Cathedral
Prague Castle
Picture Gallery
Renaissance and
Baroque paintings
hang in the restored
stables of the castle 1
Second
courtyard
Matthias
Gate (1614)
First
courtyard
To Castle
Square
Church of the
Castle steps down Holy Rood
to Mal Strana
. Golden Lane
The picturesque
artisans cottages
along the inside
of the castle wall
were built in the HRADANY AND
MAL STRANA
late 16th century
for the castles
guards and
gunners 5
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, map 2.
Old Castle
steps down to
Malostransk
metro
KA
RS
JI
0 metres 60
0 yards 60
KEY
. St Georges Convent Suggested route
The convent houses 19th-century Czech
art such as this piece titled Summer
Countryside with Chapel by
STAR SIGHTS
Adolf Kosrek 4
. Golden Lane
. Old Royal Palace
. Old Royal Palace
The uniform exterior of the palace . St Georges Basilica
conceals many fine Gothic and and Convent
Renaissance halls. Coats of arms
cover the walls and ceiling of the . St Vituss Cathedral
Room of the New Land Rolls 3
56 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
St Vituss Cathedral 2
CHRM SV . VTA
Work began on the citys most distinctive Chancel
landmark in 1344. Peter Parler was largely The chancel, first
responsible for the grandiose Gothic design, built by Parler
though the building was not finally and repaired in
completed for another 600 years. The Neo-Gothic style,
cathedral contains the tomb of Good King is remarkable
Wenceslas, some fine works of art, among for its vault,
them an exquisite Alfons Mucha window. counterpointed
by the intricacy
Twin west of the webbed
spires
tracery.
Triforium
Rose Window
Designed by Frantiek
Kysela in the 1920s, the
window above the portals
depicts scenes from the
biblical story of the Creation.
West front
Gargoyles
On the ornate west
front gutter spouts are given
Nave
their traditional disguise.
Main entrance
TIMELINE
c.925 Rotunda of 1359 Masterbuilder 1619
St Vitus built by St Peter Parler Calvinists 1929 Consecration of
Wenceslas summoned to take over completed cathedral,
continue work on cathedral as nearly 1,000 years
the cathedral Bust of Peter Parler house of after death of
on triforium prayer St Wenceslas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 59
. Chapel of
St Wenceslas
This opulent,
jewel-studded
chapel, home to
the saints tomb,
is the highlight of
a visit to St Vituss.
This bronze ring
hangs on the chapels
north portal.
The tomb of
St Wenceslas is connected
to an altar, decorated with
semi-precious stones.
. Golden Portal
Until the 19th century this was the
main cathedral entrance, and it is still
used on special occasions. Above it is a
mosaic of The Last Judgment by
14th-century Venetian craftsmen.
Sternberg Palace 8
TERNBERSK PALC
Franz Josef Sternberg founded the Society of Patriotic
Friends of the Arts in Bohemia in 1796. Fellow
noblemen woul d lend their finest sculptures and
pictures to the society, which had its headquarters in
the early 18th-century Sternberg Palace. Since 1949,
the fine Baroque building has housed the National
Gallerys collection of European art, with its superb
range of Old Masters.
Garden
Room
Stairs to
second
floor
STAR FEATURES
. Scholar in his Study
by Rembrandt
Ground
floor
Stairs to . Head of Christ by
first floor
El Greco
. The Martyrdom
of St Thomas by
Ticket Passageway
office to Castle Rubens
Square
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 61
Chinese
Cabinet
Eden (1618)
Roelandt Savery studied the animals
in the menagerie of Emperor Rudolph
Second II. He liked to include them in his
floor biblical and mythological works.
GALLERY GUIDE
The gallery is arranged on
three floors around the central
courtyard of the palace. The
ground floor, reached from
the courtyard, houses German
and Austrian art from the
15th to 19th centuries. The
stairs to the upper floors are
opposite the ticket office at
Stairs down to the main entrance.
other floors
and exit
. Head of Christ
Painted by El Greco in the KEY
1590s, this portrait
German and Austrian Art
emphasizes the humanity of 14001800
Christ. At the same time the
Flemish and Dutch Art
curious square halo gives 14001600
the painting the qualities
Italian Art 14001500
of an ancient icon.
Roman Art
Church of St Nicholas r
KOSTEL SV . MIKULE
Baroque Organ
A fresco of St Cecilia watches
over the superb organ, built
Entrance
in 1746 by Toms Schwarz. from west side
There were originally three of Little Quarter
Schwarz organs here. Square
Chapel of
St Anne Chapel of
St Catherine
STAR FEATURES
Faade
. Dome Fresco
St Paul, by John Frederick Kohl,
. Pulpit is one of the statues that grace the
curving faade. It was completed in
. Statues of the 1710 by Christoph Dientzenhofer,
Church Fathers who was influenced by Italian
architects Borromini and Guarini.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 65
. Dome Fresco
Franz Palkos fresco, The Celebration
of the Holy Trinity (17523), fills
the 70-m (230-ft) high dome.
High Altar
. Statues of the Eastern A copper statue of St Nicholas
Church Fathers by Ignaz Platzer surmounts
The statues of the four great teach- the high altar. Below it, the
ers by Ignaz Platzer stand at the painting of St Joseph is by
base of the four columns supporting Johann Lukas Kracker, who
the dome. Pictured here is St Cyril. also painted the nave fresco.
Charles Bridge s
KARLV MOST
Mal Strana
Bridge Tower
St Adalbert, 1709
Judith Bridge Adalbert, Bishop of Prague,
Tower, 1158
founded St Lawrence Church on
Petin Hill in 991. The Czechs
know him as Vojtch (see p101).
St Vitus,
1714
St Francis Borgia, 1710 St John the Baptist, 1857 St Cyril and St Joseph, 1854
St Methodius, 1938
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 69
Crucifix
Star Msto
For 200 years this Bridge Tower
crucifix stood
alone on the
bridge. The gilded
Christ dates from 1629
and the Hebrew words
Tower
Holy, Holy, Holy Lord
entrance
were paid for by a Jew
as punishment for
blasphemy.
Madonna and
St Bernard,
1709
St Ivo 1711
Piet,
1859
. Star Msto Bridge Tower
This fine Gothic tower was an
The Madonna,
St Barbara, integral part of the old towns
St Margaret and
St Dominic and St Elizabeth,
fortifications. The sculptures, like
St Thomas, 1708 1707 the tower, are by Peter Parler.
P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A 71
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Churches and Synagogues Cemeteries
Church of Our Lady Old Jewish Cemetery
before Tn 3 pp8081 0 N T I K
U
F R A
HRADEBN
Church of St Giles u
N A
Church of St James 4 NMST
CURIEOVCH
PA
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DU
Maisel Synagogue 9 B C H
U M I LO S R D N
RA
N VO
KO Z
O
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Old-New Synagogue
V
OD
O
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REVOL
NH
pp789 7 AL
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PA
OVA
BEC
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BLK HA
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Pinkas Synagogue q
TO
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LIS
Spanish Synagogue 6 ZE
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UN
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17.
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Historic Buildings AS
PA
NMST JANA
M
R Y B N
PALACHA
IR
Clementinum r OK K
S
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Staromstsk
VO
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Municipal House o
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O VN
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NMST
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K C E L E T N Nmst
P L AT N S Republiky
Museums and Galleries
DNIC
MARINSK
NMST
Convent of St Agnes 5 MAL OVOCN
E
NMST TRH
LE
ZN
Museum of Decorative P
Arts w
KA
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O
MSTO P
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Smetana Museum y A
V
N
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SK
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ANENSK K
S
Historic Streets NMST
B
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Celetn Street 2 Y
VO N
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BETLMSK
Charles Street t NMST SKO
PE
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SMETANO
KEY
0 metres 250
Street-by-Street map
See pp723
0 yards 250
Metro station
S T A R O M S T S K
N M S T
Old Town Square is depicted
in this late 19th-century water-
colour by Vclav Jansa, which
shows how little Staromstsk
nmst has changed in more
than 100 years. M A L
N M S T
Z
E
L
E
Monument was
N
erected in 1915,
on the 500th
anniversary of the
religious reformers
burning at the
stake as a heretic.
To the Czechs, he
is a hero.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 73
NOV MSTO
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, maps 34
Church of St James
This wooden Piet, on the
Tn courtyard
main altar, was made in
the 15th century 4
. Municipal
House
This Art Nouveau
! + ) ! T building is a
popular concert
+
venue o
&
(
* + & ( * ) ! T
$
Z
E
q
A
L
Powder
" *
$ T Gate, a
much-restored
Gothic gate, is a
relic of when there
was a royal palace
located here, at the
House of entrance to the
the Black Old Town.
( Madonna
*
q
$
%
,
%
Estates Theatre
The theatre featured
in director Milo Formans Celetn Street
Ovocn trh, This ornamental Baroque
film Amadeus i
once Pragues fruit plaque is the sign of the
market, is now a
pedestrian street.
House at the Black Sun,
on famous Celetn Street 2
The Carolinum
formed the heart of the STAR SIGHTS
university founded by
Charles IV in 1348. A . Municipal House
beautifully carved Oriel
window projects from . Old Town Hall
the oldest surviving part.
74 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
Tourist
information and
entrance to Tower
Temporary art
exhibitions
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 75
Oriel Chapel
The original stained-glass
windows on the five-sided
chapel were destroyed in the
last days of World War II, but
were replaced in 1987.
. Astronomical Clock
Mechanical figures perform above the
zodiac signs in the upper section; the
lower section is a calendar.
Calendar
Entrance hall
decorated
with mosaics Gothic Door
This late Gothic main
entrance to the Town Hall
and Tower was carved by
STAR FEATURES Matthias Rejsek. The
. Astronomical Clock entrance hall is filled with
wall mosaics after designs
. Old Town Hall Tower by the Czech painter
Mikol Ale.
76 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 77
Old-New Synagogue 7
STARONOV SYNAGGA
Right-hand
Built around 1270, this is the oldest Nave
synagogue in Europe and one of the The glow from
earliest Gothic buildings in Prague. The the chandeliers
synagogue has survived fires, the slum provides light
clearances of the 19th century and many for worshippers
Jewish pogroms. Residents of the Jewish who sit in the
Quarter have often had to seek refuge seats lining the
within its walls and today it is still the walls.
religious centre for Pragues Jews. It was
originally called the New Synagogue
until another synagogue (later destroyed)
was built nearby.
Stepped brick
gable (14th
century)
. Jewish Standard
The historic banner of Pragues
Jews is decorated with a star of
David and, within it, the hat
that had to be worn by
Jews in the 14th
century.
These windows
formed part of the
18th-century
extensions built to
allow women a
view of the service.
Candlestick holder
The cantors
platform (or
bima) is surrounded
by a wrought-iron
Gothic grille.
Entrance
in erven
Street
. Five-Rib Vaulting Entrance Portal
Two massive octagonal The tympanum above
pillars inside the hall the door in the south
support the five-rib vestibule is decorated
vaults: one rib was added with bunches of grapes
to the traditional four ribs. and vine leaves.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 79
The interior is
dim since the
small windows
do not allow
much light in.
STAR FEATURES
. Five-Rib Vaulting The Ark
This is the holiest place in the
. Jewish Standard synagogue as it holds
the sacred scrolls of the Torah
. Rabbi Lws (the first five books of the
Chair Bible) and of the books of 18th-century silver Torah crown in
the Prophets. the Maisel Synagogue
80 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
Rabbi David
Oppenheim
(16641736)
The chief rabbi of
Prague owned the
largest collection of
Hebrew manuscripts Klausen
and prints in the city. The gravestone Synagogue
of Moses Beck
VISITORS CHECKLIST
irok 3. Map 3 B3. Tel 222
317 191 (bookings). X Staro-
mstsk. v 17, 18. @ 133.
# AprOct: 9am6pm SunFri,
NovMar: 9am4:30pm SunFri
(last adm 30 mins before closing).
& 7 www.jewishmuseum.cz
The Neo-
Romanesque
Ceremonial Hall
Mordechai Maisel
(15281601) was Mayor of
Pragues Jewish Town and a
philanthropist (see p79). Tombstone of
Hendela Bassevi
UNDERSTANDING THE GRAVESTONES The highly decorated
tomb (1628) was built in
From the late 16th century onwards, tombstones in the
Jewish cemetery were decorated with symbols denoting the honour of the beautiful wife of
background, family name or profession of the deceased. Pragues first Jewish nobleman.
STAR FEATURES
. 14th-century
Tombstones
Blessing A pair of A stag: Grapes:
hands: scissors: Hirsch or blessing or . Tombstone of
Cohen family tailor Zvi family abundance Rabbi Lw
82 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
a fraction of it is ever on
display. Pride of place goes to
the Bohemian glass, of which
there are many fine Baroque
and 19th- and 20th-century
pieces. Other exhibits include
Meissen porcelain, Gobelin
tapestries, costume, textiles,
photographs and furniture.
Rudolfinum e
Alovo nbei 12. Map 3 A3.
X Staromstsk. v 17, 18.
@ 133. Philharmonic
Tel 227 059 227. ^ 7 -
www.czechphilharmonic.cz
buildings in the city after At No. 3, At the Golden Well Smetana was an ardent patriot
Prague Castle. They built the has a magnificent Baroque and his music helped inspire
Church of St Saviour (1593 faade and stucco reliefs of the Czech national revival.
1714), adorned with large saints including St Roch and Deaf towards the end of his
statues of the Apostles by St Sebastian, who are believed life, he never heard his cycle
Jan Bendl (1659). to offer protection against of symphonic poems M
The most brutal expansion plagues. Vlast (My Country), being
involved the demolition of 30 performed. The opera, The
houses after the Jesuits were Bartered Bride, brought him
given control of the universi- the greatest renown abroad.
ty. The sumptuous Baroque
library (Barokn sl), with a
splendid trompe loeil ceiling, Church of St Giles u
dates from 1727. The lovely
KOSTEL SV. JILJ
Chapel of Mirrors (Zrcadlov
kaple), and the Astronomical
Tower (Astronomick v), Husova 8. Map 3 B4. Tel 224 220
offering great views, are also 235. X Nrodn tda. v 6, 9, 17,
18th-century. In 1773, when 18, 22. # 46pm Tue & Thu. 5
the pope dissolved their 7am & 6:30pm MonFri, 6:30pm Sat,
Order, the Jesuits left Prague. A 19th-century sign on the House at
8:15am, 9:30am, noon, 6:30pm Sun.
The Clementinum eventually the Golden Snake, Charles Street
6 www.kostel-praha.cz
became the National Library.
Despite a beautiful Gothic
Smetana Museum y portal on the south side, the
inside of this church is
MUZEUM BEDICHA SMETANY
essentially Baroque. Founded
in 1371, it became a Hussite
Novotnho lvka 1. Map 3 A4. church in 1420. Following the
Tel 222 220 082. X Staromstsk. Protestant defeat in 1620,
v 17, 18. # 10am5pm Wed Ferdinand II gave the church
Mon. & 6 fee. www.nm.cz to the Dominicans, who built
On a spit of land beside on a huge friary. The monks
the Vltava, a former Neo- were booted out under the
Renaissance waterworks has Communists, but they have
been turned into a memorial since been able to return.
to Bedich Smetana (182484), The vaults of the church are
the father of Czech music. The decorated with frescoes by
one-room museum contains the painter Vclav Vavinec
documents, letters, scores and Reiner, who is buried in the
musical instruments from the nave. The main fresco, a glo-
Former Jesuit Church of St Saviour composers life and work. rification of the Dominicans,
in the Clementinum Visitors can listen to extracts shows St Dominic and his
from some of Smetanas key friars helping the pope
works by waving an electronic defend the Catholic Church
Charles Street t baton at music stands. from non-believers.
KARLOVA ULICE
Municipal House o
OBECN DM
Pragues most prominent Art Nouveau building was
built in 190511 on the site of a former royal palace. It
includes Pragues top concert venue, as well as other
smaller halls, a restaurant and caf. The flamboyant and
exciting interior, decorated with works by leading Czech
artists, including Alfons Mucha, is well worth savouring.
The guided tour is excellent and also good value.
. Mosaic by
The Estates Theatre, once the most
important theatre in Prague
Karel pillar
The faade
Estates Theatre i includes a vast
STAVOVSK DIVADLO
semicircular
mosaic
Ovocn trh 1. Map 3 C4.
depicting
X Mstek. # for guided tours Homage to
call 224 902 231. 7 Prague, by
www.narodni-divadlo.cz Karel pillar.
Built in 1783 by the German-
speaking Count Nostitz
Rieneck, the theatre is one
of the finest examples of
Classical elegance in Prague.
Its white, gold and blue
auditorium resembles a
luxury chocolate box. While
performances were given in
Czech or Italian occasionally,
until 1920 the main language
used on stage was German.
The theatre is renowned
for its premieres of operas
by Mozart. On 29 October Glass Dome
1787 the public was treated The imposing glass
to the world premiere of dome, a local
Don Giovanni, with Mozart landmark, towers
himself conducting from the above Hollars Hall, a
piano. Acknowledging the circular room next to
connection between Mozart
and the theatre, the interior the exhibition rooms.
was used by Milo Forman in
his famous Oscar-winning
film Amadeus (1984).
In 1834 Fidlovaka, a comic
opera by Josef Kajetn Tyl,
was performed here for the
first time. One of its songs,
Kde domov mj? (Where is
My Home?), later became the
Czech national anthem. More
than a century later, in the
spirit of the national revival,
the theatre was renamed after
Tyl, though it has since
reverted to its original name.
The Carolinum, opposite, is
the core of Prague University
founded by Charles IV. In the . Mayors Salon
15th and 16th centuries, the This splendid room has Main Hall
university led the movement furniture by J Krejuk Lifts in the main hall have
to reform the church. It was and murals depicting beautiful Art Nouveau
later taken over by the Jesuits. Czech heroes by Mucha. details and ornaments.
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S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 85
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Nmst Republiky 5. Map 4 D3.
Tel 222 002 101. X Nmst
Republiky. v 5, 8, 14. Gallery
# only during exhibitions: 10am
6pm daily. 8 by arrangement.
7 - 0 www.obecnidum.cz
. Smetana Hall
The auditorium seating 1,500 is occasionally used as a
ballroom. The box to the left of the stage is reserved for the
President of the Republic, the one to the right for the Mayor.
Magnificent
glass dome
Figures
seen on all
sides of the
building are
by Czech
artists who
combined
Classical
and historic
symbols with
modern motifs.
STAR FEATURES
. Mayors Salon
. Mosaic by Karel
pillar Decorative Elements
Lavish stucco decoration covers all sides of the
. Smetana Hall Municipal House; seen here are floral motifs,
typical of the Art Nouveau style (see p97).
P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A 87
NOV MSTO
Theatres K
O Nrodn tda. Tram routes
N
National Theatre pp945 r
K
P
Z
A
State Opera 5
N
PA
N
K
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Charles Square.
A
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and Gardens N
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TROJICK ZAHRADA I N
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NA
Train station
I
0 yards 250
Art Nouveau sculptures on the Hlalol Choir Building (1905) on Masarykovo nbe
88 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
Church of Our
Lady of the Snows
The towering Gothic
Mstek
building is only part of
a vast church planned Mstek
during the 14th century 2
A
V
O
K
IC
D
O
V
Lucerna
Palace
S K
N
Franciscan
Garden
P
STAR SIGHTS
. National Museum
. State Opera
. Wenceslas Square
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
N O V E M S T O 89
Vltava
St Wenceslas (1912) and
the National Museum NOV MSTO
Caf
Tramvaj 11
V
. State Opera
C
L
V
and gilded stucco of the
N
O
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A original late-19th-century
M
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S
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Muzeum
K O V
Muzeum
K R A
St Wenceslas
Monument
Fnix Muzeum
Palace
Church of St
Stephen 8
KOSTEL SV . TPNA
Founded by Charles IV in
1351 as the parish church of
the upper Nov Msto,
St Stephens was finished in
1401 with the completion of
the multi-spired steeple. In
the late 17th century the
Branberg Chapel was added;
it is now home to the tomb of
the prolific Baroque sculptor
Matthias Braun. Most of the
subsequent Baroque additions
were removed when the
church was scrupulously
re-Gothicized in the 1870s.
There are some fine Baroque The Michna Summer Palace, home of the Dvok Museum
paintings, however, including
a picture of St John Nepomuk are Dvok scores, as well as 1945; it was one of the few
by Jan Jii Heinsch to the left photographs and memorabilia historic buildings in the city
of the pulpit. But the churchs of the 19th-century Czech to be damaged during World
greatest treasure is a stunning composer, including his War II. When the church was
Gothic panel painting of the piano, viola and desk. reconstructed, it was given
Madonna, known as Our The building, designed by two concrete spires, which
Lady of St Stephens, which the great Baroque architect form an incongruous part of
dates from 1472. Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, the citys skyline.
has an elegant tiered mansard The monastery was
roof. It was built in 1720 for founded in 1347 by Croatian
the Michnas of Vacnov and Benedictines, whose services
was originally known as the were held in the Old Slavonic
Michna Summer Palace. language, hence its name Na
In the 19th century the villa Slovanech. In the course of
and garden fell into decay, Pragues tumultuous religious
but both have been heavily history, the monastery has
restored. The garden statues since changed hands many
and vases, from the workshop times. In 1446 a Hussite order
of Matthias Braun, date from was formed here, then in
about 1735. Inside, the ceiling 1635 the building was
and walls of the large room
on the first floor, often used
for recitals, are decorated with
18th-century frescoes.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
N O V M S T O 93
acquired by Spanish Bene- Charles Square w for their Prague church. Inside,
dictines. In the 18th century KARLOVO NMST
the profusion of gilts is truly
the complex was given a dazzling.
thorough Baroque treatment, To the right of St Ignatius
Map 5 B2. X Karlovo nmst.
but then in 1880 it was taken stands the rather featureless
v 3, 4, 6, 10, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24.
over by German Benedict- former Jesuit college, also
ines, who decided to rebuild designed by Carlo Lurago.
virtually everything in Neo- The southern part of Nov It is now a teaching hospital
Gothic style. Msto resounds to the rattle that is attached to Charles
The complex, also known of trams, as many routes University, which makes use
as the Emmaus Monastery, is converge in this part of the of several buildings in and
now functioning again since city. The public garden in around this square.
the return of monks exiled Charles Square, laid out in
under Communism. Some the mid-19th century, offers
historically important 14th- a peaceful and welcome
century wall paintings are retreat, though its trees do
preserved in the cloisters, make it hard to enjoy broad
though many were damaged vistas within the square.
in World War II. The statues in the park are
of various figures from
Czech history.
Pragues largest square
it is almost twice the size of
Wenceslas Square was laid
out when Charles IV was
establishing Nov Msto in Dancing House, nicknamed Fred
1348. Built at its centre was and Ginger
a wooden tower, where the
coronation jewels were put Dancing House e
on display once a year.
TANC DM
Some time later the tower
was replaced by a chapel.
It was from here, in 1437, Rsnovo nbe 80. Map 5 B2.
that the famous document Tel 221 984 160. X Karlovo
informing the Czechs about nmst. v 3, 4, 6, 10, 14, 16,
the concessions granted to 18, 22, 24. @ 176. Restaurant
the Hussites by the pope and # 9amnoon MonFri, 10am
the council in Basle was read noon Sat. ^
out for the first time.
Until the 19th century On the banks of the Vltava,
Baroque faade of Faust House Charles Square was used west of Charles Square, is
mainly as a cattle market, an extraordinary building
Faust House q and for selling firewood, coal affectionately named the
and other goods. On its north Dancing House. Its other
FAUSTV DM
side is the New Town Hall popular name Fred and
(see p96), while on the south Ginger alludes to the fact
Karlovo nmst 40, 41. Map 5 B3. side is the magnificent church that its silhouette brings to
X Karlovo nmst. v 3, 4, 10, of St Ignatius. Built by Carlo mind the famous American
14, 16, 18, 24. to the public. Lurago in the 1660s, this is dancing pair, Fred Astaire and
a prime example of Baroque Ginger Rogers. The glass and
This Ornate Baroque Jesuit architecture, concrete structure
mansion is the object of one intended to which, in fact, is
of Pragues most enduring symbolize the two buildings with
legends: namely, that this strength and the different faades
house, whose origins can be power of the faith. and of different
traced to the 12th century, The faade is heights, is the 1996
was once the home of the topped by a statue work of Californian
notorious Dr Faustus. of the churchs architect Frank
In the 16th century an patron saint, Gehry and his asso-
English alchemist-cum-con St Ignatius of ciate Vlado Miluni.
man Edward Kelley lived Loyola, framed by Detail from a house It was awarded a
here. However, it was the a radiant sunburst. in Charles Square special prize by
experiments of alchemist The Churchs rules Time, the American
Count Ferdinand Mladota of allowed only Christ and the magazine, for blending mod-
Solopysky, who owned the Virgin Mary to be represented ern architecture with an older,
house in the 1700s, which in this fashion, but the Jesuits historical environment. The
gave rise to its association succeeded in obtaining an French restaurant on the top
with the legend of Faust. exemption from the pope floor, Cleste, has great views.
94 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
National Theatre r
NRODN DIVADLO
The
Laterna
Magika, where
shows combine
film, theatre,
dance and light.
The New Stage
auditorium
. Auditorium
The elaborate ceiling,
painted by Frantiek
enek, is adorned
with allegorical
STAR FEATURES figures representing
. Auditorium the arts.
. Lobby Ceiling
This ceiling fresco is
the final part of a
triptych painted by
Frantiek enek
in 1878, depicting
the Golden Age of
Czech Art.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
N O V M S T O 95
ARCHITECTURE
Architecturally, the new style was a deliberate attempt to break
with the 19th-century tradition of monumental buildings. In Art
Nouveau the important feature was ornament, either painted or
sculpted, often in the form of a female figure, applied to a fairly
plain surface. This technique was ideally suited to wrought iron
and glass, which were both light and strong and became popular
materials. The style created buildings of lasting beauty in Prague.
Ornate
pilasters
Decorative
statues
ALFONS MUCHA
Many painters, sculptors and
graphic artists were influenced
by Art Nouveau. One of the
styles most successful exponents
was Alfons Mucha (18601939).
He is celebrated chiefly for his
posters, yet he also designed
stained glass, furniture,
jewellery, even postage stamps
(see p91).
V isitors to Prague,
finding the historic
centre so full of sights,
often ignore the suburbs. It is
true that once visitors venture
the Trade Fair Palace, with its
superb modern art collection; the
former monastery at Zbraslav,
now a repository for some
impressive Asian art and
away from the centre, language artifacts; the Bevnov Monastery,
can become a problem. However, co-founded by St Adalbert;
it is well worth the effort, both to Vyehrad, the rocky seat of the
escape the crowds and also to Pemyslid princes; ikov, site
realize that Prague is a living city of a famous Hussite victory and
as well as a picturesque time of a giant monument that
capsule. The majority of towers over Prague; Bl
the museums and other Statuette of Mozart, on Hora (White Mountain),
show at the
attractions are easily reached Mozart Museum which remains the symbol
by Metro, tram, bus or even of national calamity; and
on foot. The sights of particular the Troja Palace, a splendid 17th-
interest include the Mozart Museum; century villa with a French garden.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries
Mozart Museum 1 Veltrusy
Trade Fair Palace
Vlt
pp1023 4 a
va
Zbraslav Chateau 8
60
8
Monastery
8
Bevnov Monastery 6
Historic Districts
7 10
Vyehrad 2
Slan Podbrady
ikov 3
12
Historic Sites
Ruzyn 6
White Mountain and Star 333
5 km
Karltejn/Plze
M0 Brno
600
R1
0 km 2 10 km
Vltav
0 miles 2
a
KEY
R1
Central Prague
R4
Greater Prague
Airport 15 km
Major road
Mozart Museum 1
BERTRAMKA
See pp104105.
and Kilian Ignaz Dientzen- 1620, affected the two
hofer (see p65): the monastery main communities of Prague
church of St Margaret (sv. in different ways. For the
Markty) is Christophs work. Protestants it was a disaster
Essentially a substantial that led to 300 years of
reworking of the original 10th- Habsburg domination; for
century church, it is based on the Catholic supporters of
a floorplan of overlapping the Habsburgs it was a
ovals, as ingenious as any of triumph, so they erected a
Berninis churches in Rome. memorial chapel on the hill.
For four decades the Ministry In the early 1700s this was
of the Interior used St converted into the grander
Margarets as storage space. Church of Our Lady
Also of interest is the abbeys Victorious and decorated by
meeting hall, or Theresian leading Baroque artists.
Hall, with a painted ceiling In the 16th century the
dating from 1727. woodland around the White
Mountain battle site had
Bevnov monastery, designed been a royal game park.
largely by the Dientzenhofers White Mountain The Star Hunting Lodge
(Letohrdek Hvzda),
Bevnov and Star Hunting completed in 1556, survives
Monastery 6 Lodge 7 today. This fascinating
building has a six-pointed
BL HORA/LETOHRDEK HVZDA
BEVNOVSK KLTER star design hvzda means
star. In 1950 it became a
v 22 (White Mountain), 1, 2, 18 museum dedicated to the
Marktsk 28. Tel 220 406 111. v
(Star Hunting Lodge). White writer of historical novels
15, 22. & 8 10am, 2pm, 4pm Sat
Mountain # 24 hrs daily. Star Alois Jirsek (18511930),
& Sun; by appt MonFri call 220 406
Hunting Lodge Tel 235 357 938. and the painter Mikol Ale
270. ^ www.brevnov.cz
# Apr Oct: 10am5pm TueSun (18521913). This is now
From the surrounding subur- (to 6pm MaySep). & ^ closed for reconstruction.
ban housing you would never The museum has exhibits
guess that Bevnov is one of The Battle of the White relating to the Battle of the
the oldest inhabited parts of Mountain, the decisive White Mountain and
Prague. A flourishing commu- first battle of the Czech culture.
nity grew up here around the Thirty Years War
Benedictine abbey founded in fought on 8
993 by Prince Boleslav II and November
Bishop Adalbert (Vojtch)
Bohemias first monastery. An
ancient well called Vojtka
marks the spot where the
prince and bishop are said to
have met and decided to
found the monastery.
The gateway, courtyard and
most of the present monastery
buildings are by the great
Baroque architects Christoph The 16th-century Star Hunting Lodge, close to Bl Hora
102 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A
Third
Floor
Second
floor . Torso (1936)
Stairs to
all floors
Zdenk Penek was a
pioneer of kinetic art, here
combining an organic form
with neon lighting.
Main
entrance
First
Floor
Mezzanine
Floor
Ground
Floor
KEY
19th & 20th-century European Art
Troja Palace 5
TROJSK ZMEK
One of Pragues most striking summer
palaces, Troja was built in the late
1600s by Jean-Baptiste Mathey for
Count Sternberg, member of a leading
Bohemian aristocratic family. Lying at
the foot of the Vltava Heights, the
palace was modelled on a Classical
Italian villa, while its garden was laid Defeat of
out in formal French style. The superb the Turks
interior is full of extravagant frescoes This turbaned figure, tumbling
expressing the Sternbergs loyalty to from the Grand Hall ceiling,
Terracotta urn
on the garden
the Habsburg dynasty. Troja houses a symbolizes Leopold Is triumph
balustrade good collection of 19th-century art. over the Turks.
Statue of
Belvedere Olympian
turret God
Statues
of sons of
Mother Earth
Personification of Justice
Abraham Godyns image of Justice
gazes from the lower east wall of
the Grand Hall.
. Garden Staircase
The two sons of Mother Earth which adorn the
oval-shaped staircase (16851703) are part
of a group of sculptures by Johann Georg
Heermann and his nephew Paul, showing the
struggle of the Olympian Gods with the Titans.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3479 and p377
F U R T H E R A F I E L D 105
. Chinese Rooms
Several rooms feature 18th-century murals of
Chinese scenes. This room makes a perfect Zbraslav Chateau, home to a fine
backdrop for a ceramics display. exhibition of Asian art
106 P R A G U E S T R E E T F I N D E R
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P RAGUE
CENTRAL (pp48113)
B OHEMIA
(pp118133)
WEST
B OHEMIA
(pp158177)
S OUTH
B OHEMIA
(pp134157)
esk Krumlovs
Old Town has
lovingly restored houses
with ornamented portals
and pediments, as well as
richly decorated faades
(see pp1523).
The castle and the houses of the Old Town beside the Vltava river, esk Krumlov
T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C A T A G L A N C E 117
N ORTH M ORAVIA
AND S ILESIA
(pp212223)
S OUTH
M ORAVIA
(pp224241)
CENTRAL BOHEMIA
T
he region surrounding Prague offers the combined attractions
of an extraordinary landscape with its magnificent rock
formations furrowed by river canyons, as well as a wealth of
historic towns and spectacular castles. Situated relatively close to the
city, these sights provide visitors and locals alike with superb
opportunities for exploration.
Kivoklt Castle, overlooked by a monument to Joseph Frstenberk, one of the castles former owners
120 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
VELTRUSY
CHATEAU
NELAHOZEVES
Neratovice
Slan Kralupy
nad Vltavou
evniov
Vlt
Karlovy Vary ava
Nov Straec Kladno
Rakovnk
LNY
PRAGUE
KIVOKLT
CASTLE HLAV N MSTO
Be
ro u PRAHA
nk Lodnice
a
KEY Beroun Velk Amerika Zbraslav
Dubno
PBRAM Obory
Sedlany
GETTING AROUND
The capital provides a convenient starting point
for exploring the sights of Central Bohemia. The
local transport network is well developed and
reliable. Railway lines offer regular services north
through Mlnk and Mlad Boleslav, east through
Koln and Kutn Hora, south via Konopite and
west to Karltejn and Kivoklt. Buses from
Prague and between towns also serve the
region well.
Liberec
Bl MNICHOVO
HRADIT PALACE
Entrance to the grounds of
Szava Monastery
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
MLAD
BOLESLAV Bentky nad Jizerou 4
Bezno
esk Kras r
Dobrovice
Dob Palace y
Karltejn Castle pp1323 t
BENTKY jezd
NAD JIZEROU Kokon Castle 7
er
a
Nouzov
Koln 2
Jiz
Konopit Castle i
Kivoklt Castle w
Brands nad Nymburk Kutn Hora pp1223 1
Labem-Star Boleslav
Labe Dlouhopolsko Lny q
PODBRADY Mlnk 8
Mlad Boleslav 5
Mnichovo Hradit Palace 6
valy esk Brod
Labe
Vlaim S
za
va
Louovice
echtice
Jihlava
Kutn Hora 1
. Vault
The central nave
with its magnificent
geometric vaulted
ceiling was
designed in the
early 16th century
by Benedikt Ried. It
incorporates coats
of arms from local
craft guilds.
Organ
The Baroque organ
case dating from
174060 hides a much
newer mechanism installed in
the early 20th century by the
local organmaker Jan Tuek.
ST BARBARAS CATHEDRAL
Dedicated to the patron saint of miners, St Barbaras
Cathedral (sv. Barbora) is one of Europes most
spectacular Gothic churches. Both interior and
exterior are richly ornamented, and the huge
STAR FEATURES windows ensure it is filled with light. Many of the
side chapels are decorated with interesting frescoes,
. High Altar
some of which depict miners at work and men
. Vault striking coins in the mint, reflecting the sources of
the towns wealth.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 123
Oak Stalls
The late 15th-century
stalls, originally designed
for St Vituss Cathedral in
Prague, feature Gothic
spired canopies
and carved
balustrades.
Stained-glass
Window
The Art Nouveau
stained-glass
windows designed
by Frantiek Urban
were added in the
early 20th century.
. High Altar
The central scene of the Neo-
Gothic high altar (19015),
a replica of the original,
depicts the Last Supper.
Balustrade
The stone balustrade of the
presbytery includes the initials of
King Vladislav Jagiello (W)
and his son Ludwig (L).
124 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 125
Mlad Boleslav 5
Road map B2. * 45,500. 2 km
(1 mile). @ from Prague. n elezn
107. Tel 326 322 173.
E Dvoks Birthplace
Tel 315 785 099. # 9:30amnoon,
15pm WedFri; also open 1st & 3rd
weekends of the month. & The vast Royal Hall in Kivoklt Castle
www.nm.cz
+ Castle and Roudnice
Lobkowicz Collection
Kivoklt Castle w Tonk Castle e
Tel 315 709 111. # AprOct: Road map B2. 13 km (8 miles) SE Road map B2. 15 km (9 miles) SW
TueSun. & 8
of Rakovnk. @ from Prague. of Beroun. @ from Prague via Beroun
Tel 313 558 120. # JanMar: 10am or Zdice. Tel 311 533 202. # Mar,
Lny q 3pm MonFri; Apr, Oct: 9am4pm Apr, Oct: 10amnoon, 14pm Sat,
TueSun; MayAug: 9am5pm Tue Sun; May, Jun, Sep: 10amnoon, 1
Road map B2. * 1,600. Sun (to 6pm Jul, Aug); NovDec: 5pm TueSun; Jul, Aug: 9amnoon, 1
@ from Prague to Stochov 10am3pm Sat & Sun. & 8 6pm TueSun. 8 www.tocnik.com
(2 km/1 mile). Tel 313 502 079. www.krivoklat.cz
Tonk was one of the
In 1929 Slovenian architect Built in the mid-13th last castles to be built
Josip Plenik remodelled the century by Pemysl in Bohemia during
Renaissance Palace in the Otakar II, Kivoklt the Middle Ages,
village of Lny into the summer (Prglitz) was the commissioned in
residence of the president of childhood home of about 1394 by
the Czech Republic. Its first Emperor Charles Wenceslas IV as a
occupant was Tom Garrigue IV. From 1493 to new royal residence
Masaryk (see p44), the first 1522 it was rem- following the fire
democratically elected Presi- odelled by King which destroyed
dent, and a highly popular Vladislav Jagiello Relief from the nearby ebrak
figure, who was buried in the and his son Ludwig. Kivoklt Castle Castle. In the 16th
village cemetery in 1937. The Lying in a beautiful century Tonk was
palace is not open, but it is area of woodland, the castle is remodelled in Renaissance
worth exploring its beautiful dominated by its 42-m (130-ft) style. After the Thirty Years
park. The former Baroque cylindrical Great Tower. This War it was abandoned. Now,
granary now houses the adjoins the red roofs and although partly ruined, it still
Tom G Masaryk Museum of spires of the three-wing provides a rare example in
the former presidents life. palace and chapel. The most Bohemia of the monumental
beautiful interior is that of the architecture of the turn of the
Y Lny Park
Royal Hall with its star- 14th and 15th centuries. The
# AprOct: Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun,
holidays. &
spangled vault, the second- mighty, five-storey edifice of
largest room of its type in the royal palace can be seen
E Masaryk Museum Bohemia, after the Vladislav from afar. Its Renaissance gate
Tel 313 502 608. # MayOct.
Hall in Prague Castle. dates from 1524.
Pbram u
Road map B3. * 34,800.
@ from Prague.
E Mining Museum
Tel 318 626 307. # NovMar: ARCHDUKE FRANZ FERDINAND
TueFri; AprOct: TueSun. The Austrian Archduke Franz
Underground exhibition Ferdinand bought Konopite in
# AprOct: as museum; 1887. For the Archduke,
NovMar: by appt TueSun. & 8 criticized by the Habsburg Court
R Church of Svat Hora for marrying a Bohemian
Tel 318 626 351. # daily. noblewoman Sophie Chotek, the
castle was a refuge from the
hostilities of Viennese society.
Franz Ferdinand lived in his
Bohemian home until his death
alongside his wife at the hands
of an assassin in Sarajevo the
event that led to the outbreak of
World War I in 1914.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
132 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Karltejn Castle t
STAR FEATURES
. Holy Cross Chapel
. St Marys Tower
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 133
St Catherines Chapel
Used as a place of meditation
by Charles IV, this tiny chapel
has walls that are richly
decorated with paintings and
semi-precious stones.
Madonna Statue
The 14th-century marble
statue of the Madonna, in
the royal bedchamber,
belonged to King Charles IV.
SOUTH BOHEMIA
W
ooded hills and spreading meadows characterize much of
South Bohemia, while in the flatter, central area around
Tebo hundreds of glittering medieval fish ponds, still
used for raising carp, can be seen. The backbone of the region is the
Vltava river. This rises in the umava Mountains to the southwest, a
remarkably unspoilt area of dense forests and tiny villages.
In the 13th century and its fascinating castle, but
several fortified towns many other historic towns,
were established in such as Jindichv
South Bohemia (Jin Hradec and Tebo
echy), with the aim of are equally rich in
defending the kings rule. well-preserved buildings.
The foremost of them, esk South Bohemia played a
Budjovice, is now the regions prominent role in the history
capital and source of Budvar, the of the Hussite movement. Tbor
famous local beer. became the main centre of the more
The deciding influence on the life radical faction of the religious
of South Bohemia in the Middle Ages reformers who strongly opposed the
was often exerted by two powerful 15th-century social conditions.
aristocratic families the Romberks In the 17th century the Bavarian
(Rosenbergs) and the lords of Hradec. Schwarzenberg family achieved great
Both built numerous castles and power in the region. It is to them
fortified towns, known as Rose that the fortress in Hlubok nad
Towns after the red rose of the Vltavou, the most frequently visited
Romberks and the black rose of the castle in this part of the country,
Hradec. esk Krumlov, owned by owes its fairy-tale Neo-Gothic form.
the Romberk family is the regions One of the most magnificent collec-
top tourist destination for the picture- tions of Late Gothic art is found here
postcard perfection of its old town in the Ale South Bohemian Gallery.
Boubn forests, the last remaining virgin backwoods of umava, southwest Bohemia
Decorated towers of the Castle and the Church of St Justus in esk Krumlov
136 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Milevsko
KEY
ZVKOV CASTLE
Motorway Blatn
va
Main road
ta
O
Horadovice
Minor road Tebkov
Vl
ta
Main railway Ot PSEK
va
Rab av
a
Minor railway BECHYN
STRAKONICE
International border Abrechtice
Vimperk
Bla
Vka
1117m
HLUBOK NAD
VLTAVOU
Kvilda Netolice
PRACHATICE
Boubn
1362m HOLAOVICE
ESK
BUDJOVICE
Strn
T Volary
H ZLAT KORUNA
E
MONASTERY
Klet Blansk
1083m
Kniec Stolec
U 1226m
M ESK
A KRUMLOV
V
A
Horn Plan
Vlta
ROMBERK NAD
Zb. Lipienski
1053m VLTAVOU CASTLE
Doln
Dvoit
VY BROD
MONASTERY
The town hall in esk Budjovice Linz
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Bechyn 4 Nov Hrady q Vy Brod Monastery e
erven Lhota Castle 7 Pelhimov 6 Zlat Koruna Monastery y
esk Budjovice Psek p Zvkov Castle a
pp1389 1 Prachatice i
Tour
esk Krumlov Romberk nad Vltavou Castle w
Slavonice 9 The umava pp1489 r
pp1525 t
Hlubok nad Vltavou 2 Strakonice o
Holaovice u Tbor pp1423 5
Jindichv Hradec Temeln 3
pp1445 8 Tebo 0 SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp35052
Prague
Borovany Suchdol
nad Lunic
Trhov Sviny
Vienna
0 km 15
Budvar Brewery
1 km (0.6 miles)
ESKE BUDJOVICE
TOWN CENTRE OV
A
NA
HUS
SA
Black Tower 5 DE
CH
Butchers Market 4 HRADEBN
Ml
ns NOV
k
Dominican Monastery and s
to ka
K
ESK
H O
NA
the Virgin 3 M A
H R L N DE
PL A C H
Motorcycle Museum 9 AD CH
V E
U ER
SK
PIARISTICK
ST
BN
Nmst Pemysla
OC
NM.
Motorcycle H R OZ NO V
E
A
BI S KU P S K
DR. STEJSKAL
IROK
South Bohemia
0 metres 200 elezn panna Museum
ZTK
OVO CH
DU
e
NA
LS
K
Environs
In Albrechtice, 5 km (3 miles)
north of Temeln, by the
Baroque Church of St Peter
and St Paul, is an unusual
cemetery. In 184154 108
small shrines were built here,
each painted in a nave style
to record events in the life
of the deceased.
Bechyn 4
Sumptuously furnished Tapestry Room in Hlubok Castle
Road map B3. * 5,500. from
Hlubok nad Temeln 3 Tbor. @ from esk Budjovice or
Prague. n Nmst TG Masaryka 5.
Vltavou 2 Road map B3. from esk Tel 381 213 822.
Budjovice. @ from esk Budjovice
Road map B3. * 5,000. @ from
or Prague. Tel 381 102 639. # Jul, The most beautiful view of
esk Budjovice or Prague. n
Aug: 9am5:30pm daily; SepJun: this picturesque spa resort is
Zborovsk 80. Tel 387 966 164.
9am4pm daily (appt recommended). from the Rainbow (Duha)
bridge, 50 m (160 ft) above the
Hlubok village is known for The atomic power station in Lunice river. The train ride
its Castle, regarded by many as Temeln was started under the from Tbor takes you over this
Bohemias most beautiful aristo- Communists in 1983, using bridge, and is a pleasant way
cratic residence. Built in the Soviet technology, and com- to arrive. Bechyns spring
13th century by Wenceslas I, pleted in the 1990s using US waters attract those seeking
the Gothic castle was and European technology. treatment for rheumatism
remodelled several times: in the Designed to provide up to and metabolic disorders.
16th century in Renaissance 20 per cent of the The Castle is the
style; then under the owner- Czech Republics towns oldest sight. A
ship of the Schwarzenbergs in electricity, it finally 12th-century Gothic
the 18th century in Baroque opened in 2000. fortress given a
style; and from 1839 to 1871 Prior to that it Renaissance make-
in the style of the English became famous for over four centuries
Neo-Gothic. It has 11 towers the protests it later, it now houses
and over 120 rooms filled provoked in the an exhibition of its
with furniture and paintings. Czech Republic and Coat of arms, history. In the former
In the castles former riding other European Bechyn Castle synagogue near the
school is the Ale South Bohe- countries, particularly main square is the
mian Gallery (Alova jihoesk Austria, whose border is a Firefighters Museum
galerie), a collection of 57 Fle- mere 50 km (30 miles) away. (Hasisk muzeum), with sev-
mish tapestries and Bohemian Critics of the project point out eral old fire engines on display.
medieval art. The Adoration of that from the time of its
Infant Jesus by the Master of commissioning in 2000 there + Bechyn Castle
Tebo (1380) is a highlight. have been frequent failures. Tel 381 213 143. # Jun, Sep: Sat &
A stop at the stations visitor Sun; JulAug: TueSun. &
+ Hlubok Castle centre provides information on E Firefighters Museum
Tel 387 843 911. # JanJun, Sep, the functioning of Temeln, Tel 602 840 275. # May:
Oct: TueSun; Jul, Aug: daily; Dec: but much more impressive is ThuSun; JunAug: TueSun.
WedSun. & 8
Ale South Bohemian Gallery Environs
# daily. www.ajg.cz Tn nad Vltavou, 11
km (7 miles) south
Environs of Bechyn, has a
In the Baroque Ohrada market square with
Hunting Lodge, just south of many Renaissance
Hlubok, is a hunting, fishing houses, the most
and forestry museum, filled prominent of them
with hunting trophies. being the town hall
with its arcades and
E Ohrada Hunting Lodge richly ornamented
Tel 387 965 340. # AprOct: Rococo faade. In
9am5pm TueSun. Towers of Temeln nuclear power station the 1699 Baroque
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
S O U T H B O H E M I A 141
Tbor 5
jM8>q
. Town Hall
On the main square, ikovo nmst,
is the Town Hall (144051). Inside, the
Grand Hall features superb net vaulting.
The Hussite Museum (Husitsk
muzeum) now occupies the building.
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The pretty village of Srn has a couple of pleasant 0ASSAU
places to stay. The village, surrounded by forests
and meadows, makes a good base for trekking,
mountain biking and, in winter, skiing.
KEY
Kvilda 6
Tour route
The highest altitude parish in
Other scenic routes the Czech Republic (1,065 m/
3,495 ft above sea level),
Other roads
Kvilda is a quiet winter
Viewpoint sports centre in an area of
peat bogs.
International border
Volary 5
The town of Volary has some 20 Schwarzenberg Canal 4
original wooden houses, built by Close to the hamlet of Jeleni
Tyrol farmers who settled here in vrchy is a 429-m (1,407-ft)
the 16th century. It is also a long underground tunnel, a
gateway to Boubn. A single-track fragment of the 1789
train service links Volary with Schwarzenberg Canal linking
esk Budjovice. the Vltava with the Danube.
Lake Lipno 3
The man-made water reservoir, Lipno, built
in 195059, is often referred to as the South
Bohemian Sea. Ferries cross regularly, and
it offers excellent facilities for sport and
recreation, attracting many local visitors.
0 km 10
0 miles 10
0SEK
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the oldest in the Czech
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Republic, built in 1825.
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,INZ
offers views of the Alps.
Train Station
1 km (0.6 miles)
ESK KRUMLOV
TOWN CENTRE Budjovice
Gate
Castle Theatre 7
LAT RN
Church of St Vitus 3
Egon Schiele
Centrum 2 Convent of the
Poor Clares
Krumlov Castle 6
Latrn 5 Krumlov
Castle Castle
Nmst Svornosti 1 Theatre
Z MEK Brewery
L AT R N
Ulice Horn 4
L A T R N NOV M S TO
D LO U H
NICK
0 metres 100
I ROK
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NI
AS
IC
V
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DN
S OU K E
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Egon Schiele J Bus
NMST Regional B
Centrum O station
SK
SVORNOSTI Museum
H O RN
KA
VNITN
PL
CK
MSTO Church of
St Vitus
L IN E
Key to Symbols see back flap CK
154 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
A theatre
building was
built in 1682
by Prince
Johann
Christian
Eggenberg,
under the supervision
of the Italian builders G A
de Maggi and G M Spinetti.
Wind Machine
The sound of wind
was simulated by
Sundial turning a revolving
A sundial adorns the Renaissance drum, loosely covered
House, which, since the building with a linen cloth.
of the new theatre, now houses
wardrobes, laundries and stables.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
E S K K R U M L O V 155
. Stage
This setting represents a military
camp; other preserved sets include a
forest, a town, a prison, a garden, a
harbour, a cathedral and a
colonnaded hall.
Auditorium
Rising wooden benches are
provided for the audience, and
the centre of the circle has a
comfortable royal box. The
auditorium would have been lit by
chandeliers with oil lamps.
Scene-shifting Machinery
A sophisticated system of
ropes and pulleys, which
still works well, allowed
for fast shifting of the
STAR FEATURES wings. The same device
. Painted Ceiling or a similar one controlled
Remains of the Late Gothic the lifting and lowering of
. Stage fortified walls of the castle. the backcloth, the ceiling
and the curtain.
156 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Zlat Koruna
Monastery y
Road map B3. @ from Prague or
esk Budjovice. Tel 380 743 126.
# AprOct: 9am5pm TueSun (Apr,
May: to 4pm). & 8
Founded in 1263 by Pemysl
Otakar II, this Cistercian
monastery has at its centre a
courtyard surrounded by
cloisters. Adjoining is the
Church of the Assumption
with a pentagonal presbytery
dating from about 1500. The
main altarpiece is a magnifi-
cent example of monumental
Rococo architecture.
The Chapterhouse, built in
12801300, features vaulting
supported by two Gothic
columns. The Chapel of the
Guardian Angels, at the
southern end of the
monastery grounds, is a
beautiful two-storey church
from the late 13th century,
featuring the original rib Intricate vaulting in the Chapterhouse at Zlat Koruna Monastery
vaulting on both levels.
Another building houses a farmsteads as well as a pub Prachatice i
Museum of South Bohemian represent the architectural
Literature (Pamtnk style known as Folk Baroque, Road map B3. * 11,700. from
psemnictv jinch ech). found only in this part of esk Budjovice. @ from Prague.
Bohemia, and are character- n Velk nmst 1. Tel 388 607 574.
ized by colourful faades with _ Gold Trail Festival: mid-Jun.
Holaovice u white stucco ornamentation.
The gables differ from house The towns tiny centre is
Road map B3. 15 km (9 miles) W of to house. Most of them face surrounded by a ring of
esk Budjovice. * 335. @ from the central square and pond, defensive walls, with a mighty
esk Budjovice. 387 982 145. and have an entrance gate entrance gate. It was a key
leading to a yard. Larger home- point along the salt trade route
This picturesque village steads have brick granaries into Bohemia. The lovingly
contains a splendidly resembling small fortresses. restored town square (Velk
preserved set of early 19th- Providing an enchanting nmst) has a 17th-century
century historic buildings glimpse of traditional rural Old Town Hall (Star radnice),
grouped around a central fish life, this tiny village was its faade decorated with
pond, which is used jointly by declared a UNESCO World sgraffito. Many buildings are
all the inhabitants. Nowhere Cultural and Natural Heritage covered with sgraffito; No. 31
else is such a collection of Site in 1998. Holaovice was has the finest, of the Last
buildings found in its original the setting for the 1932 film Supper (1563). The Church of
setting. The stone buildings version of The Bartered Bride St James (sv. Jakuba) has
including both homes and by Bedich Smetana. magnificent net vaulting.
Folk Baroque buildings overlooking the fish pond in the village of Holaovice
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
S O U T H B O H E M I A 157
was a textile named after the sand Road map B3. @ from Psek to
manufacturing town from which gold is Zvkovsk Podhrad, 1.5 km (1 mile).
and centre of the separated. Pemysl Tel 382 285 676. # Apr, Oct:
woollen industry. It Otakar II founded the 9:30am3:30pm Sat & Sun; JunAug:
became most famous town in the 13th 9am5pm TueSun; May, Sep:
for making fezzes. century. Its main 9:30am4pm TueSun. &
At one point nearly Statue of St Barbara in draw today, the
5 million a year the Regional Museum medieval bridge, Originally built on the Vltava
were being export- in Strakonice Castle survives from that river, Zvkov now overlooks
ed to Turkey, time, making it the artificial lake that has
India, Arabia and Egypt. Also older than Pragues Charles resulted from the Orlk dam
made here are Czech bagpipes Bridge (see pp689). It has downstream. Zvkov was
(dudy); the International several statues of saints, built in the reign of Pemysl
Bagpipe Festival every August including St John Nepomuk. Otakar II in the mid-13th
attracts large numbers of The fascinating Prchesk century, and during the Thirty
bagpipe enthusiasts. Museum, in the former royal Years War it became the final
Situated at the confluence stronghold of the Protestant
of the Otava and Volyka army in South Bohemia. The
rivers, Strakonice has a 13th- oldest part of the castle is its
century Castle, one of the mighty keep. The royal
oldest stone buildings in the palace has an interesting
Czech Republic. Until 1694 chapel of St Wenceslas with
this was the headquarters of lovely medieval frescoes on
the Knights of St John in the first floor.
Bohemia. The castle still
features original Gothic Environs
details, which can also be The Neo-Gothic Orlk Palace,
seen in the cloisters and 14 km (9 miles) north of
porch of the adjacent Church Zvkov, belongs to the
of St Procopius (sv. Prokop). Schwarzenberg family, and its
The Regional Museum in the historic interiors illustrate this
castle has displays of fezzes, prominent familys history.
bagpipes and motorcycles
(also made in the town). + Orlk Palace
Tel 382 275 101. # AprOct:
In the town itself, the main Gothic entrance gate to the castle
TueSun.
square (Velk nmst) has a in Zvkov
couple of beautifully deco-
rated buildings: the town hall
(radnice) and a savings bank. ST JOHN NEPOMUK
Jan of Pomuk, known as John Nepomuk,
+ Strakonice Castle and was from 1389 the vicar-general of the
Regional Museum Prague Archbishopric. In 1393, on the
Tel 383 321 537. # MayOct: orders of Wenceslas IV, he was im-
TueSun. & 8 prisoned, tortured and then drowned
in the Vltava. Later sources claim that
Environs he was murdered for refusing to reveal
About 20 km (12 miles) west the secret of the queens confession.
of Strakonice, Rabi fortress Canonized in 1729, John Nepomuk
(see also p148), built in the became a phenomenon of the Baroque
early 14th century, became a period. Because he is regarded as the
target of Hussite army attacks patron saint of good reputation and
in 1420. After a long siege it bridges, and guardian against floods,
was captured by the troops of countless statues of the saint were placed
Jan ika (see pp367), who by bridges. His was the first statue on
is thought to have been Pragues Charles Bridge (see p69).
blinded in one eye here.
C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 159
WEST BOHEMIA
T
his border region, strongly affected by its proximity to German
neighbours, attracts visitors for its natural beauty, its spa
resorts, and, not least, its excellent beer. Fortresses on the
frontiers of the former Pemyslid state are reminders of its distant past; its
more recent past can be seen in the areas from which, after World War
II, many Germans were expelled, leaving traces of their long presence.
Some of the most (Franzensbad) played a signi-
interesting historic ficant role in European
sites of West Bohemia history. Their habitus
(Zpadn echy) include were the rich and
the structures that were influential from the
built to defend the Kingdom worlds of politics and
of Bohemia; they include the culture, including Goethe,
castles of Pimda, Velhartice and G o g o l , C h o p i n , Wa g n e r,
vihov, as well as a number of Russian Emperor Peter the Great,
smaller fortresses scattered along the British King Edward VII and Austrian
foothills of the umava mountains. Emperor Franz Josef I.
Several magnificent monasteries, Yet the attractions of West Bohemia
including Kladruby, Plasy and Tepl, are not limited to historic relics. Its
are truly outstanding sights. Founded capital, Plze, is a flourishing
in the Middle Ages these Gothic industrial centre, the home of Pilsner
centres of monastic life were beer. The town of Domalice near
remodelled during the Baroque era the German border retains aspects of
and now provide excellent examples Slav folk culture. The region also
of the art that was intended to serve offers intriguing natural phenomena
the ideas of Counter-Reformation. at Soos a strange landscape of
The famous spa resorts of Karlovy small mud geysers and the
Vary (Karlsbad), Marinsk Lzn beautiful ern and ertovo lakes
(Marienbad) and Frantikovy Lzn near the umava mountains.
Statue of the Plze Madonna on the high altar of the Church of St Bartholomew, Plze
160 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
LZN
KYNVART
MARINSK
LZN
Plan
Tachov
M
e
es
k
Bor
Rozvadov
PIMDA
CASTLE
les
Chemnitz
Jchymov
Chomutov
Ostrov
k
vs
po
O h e
Dou
KRAJ Kladno
0 km 10 KEY
Stela 0 miles 10 Motorway
Main road
Touim
Minor road
Bezvrov Main railway
Prague
Radnice
Temon
STBRO
Kladruby PLZE
Rokycany
Star Plzenec
PLZESK KRAJ
Stod Splen
Petice Po
Stakov
lava
uz
a Blovice
Radb
h
Skaov
VIHOV CASTLE
Nepomuk
Psek
Kdyn
KLATOVY One of the Baroque
sculptures of saints
and apostles at the
Zavlekov palace in Mantn
Nrsko
Kolinec
VELHARTICE GETTING AROUND
CASTLE West Bohemia is crosscut by one of the countrys main
Suice
u transport arteries the D5 motorway (international E50
ERN m route), linking Prague with the German city of Nuremberg.
LAKE pik a Plze has good road and rail links with many towns of the
va
region, and buses and trains run between most towns, but
elen Ruda
always check the frequency of weekend services. Severe
weather can hamper winter travel.
162 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
P Town Hall
Nmst Republiky. # 8am6pm daily.
The Renaissance town hall
Plague Column on Nmst (star radnice), one of the
Republiky loveliest buildings of its kind
in Bohemia, was designed by
Exploring the City Italian architect Giovanni de
The majority of Plzes historic Statio. This four-storey edifice
sites are found on the left bank with its magnificent gables
of the Radbuza river. The was built in 155459. The
historic centre, laid out in a interesting sgraffito deco-
grid pattern, is sur- rations on the faade are the
rounded by Plzeske work of J Koul, produced
sady a green belt during 190712. Standing in
created on the site front of the town hall is a
of the old town Plague Column, erected in
walls in the 19th 1681 in thanksgiving for the
century. On the fact that the plague Twin towers with onion domes of
opposite eastern side epidemic suffered at that the Great Synagogue
of the Radbuza is time was only mild.
Pilsner Urquell F Tyl Theatre
brewery, the P Csask dm Smetanovy sady 16. Tel 378 038 070.
Prazdroj. Nmst Republiky 41. www.djkt-plzen.cz
An imposing Plzes theatre (Divadlo J K
P Nmst Renaissance edifice Tyla) is named after Josef
Republiky to the left of the Kajetan Tyl, Czech playwright
Nmst Republiky is town hall, dating and novelist, and a champion
one of the largest market from 1606, twice of national culture in the 19th
squares in the country, played host to century. This striking Neo-
measuring 139 x 193 m Emperor Rudolph II. Classical-style building was
(456 x 633 ft). Standing Now it houses the erected in 1902 and, just like
at its centre is the Church tourist information the National Theatre in Prague,
of St Bartholomew. office. The next door its design was intended to
The square is fringed Pechltovsk dm symbolize and reinforce Czech
by a number of was created by com- patriotism. The figures on the
beautifully decorated bining two smaller, faade are allegories of Opera
houses, with the best- Renaissance build- and Drama. The beautiful
preserved along the A statue on ings and adding a stage curtain was painted by
south side. Particularly Cisask dm Neo-Classical faade. Augustin Njmece.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
P L Z E 163
KOVA
K N SK I-
Assumption 7
D O M IN
TC
SEDL
Great Synagogue 5 VE LE SL
AV N OV
A
Brewing Museum
TA
SO LN Town Hall
Pilsner Urquell PR A S K
SAD
Church of St
T
Y
Brewery 0 Bartholomew
R
Great
O
PR E O
A
VS K Brewery
NMST JE
Tyl Theatre 6 DRO
Tyl REPUBLIKY PRA AZ
SK PR
Theatre BE U
West Bohemian ZR U OV
A Franciscan Monastery and
Church of the Assumption
Museum 8 S West Bohemian .
ME B .
TA N Museum N B
Bus station OV ON
Y SA K z a IS O V
400 m (440 yards) DY KO PE CKH O SADY SK
IC
N
u
AV
db
DE
GL
UM
NO VA
Ra
AN
J U N G M AN
AMERICK Train
station
Cathedral of St Bartholomew
The Gothic Cathedral of St Bartholomew (Chrm
sv. Bartolomje) dominates Plze market square
from its position in the centre. Its 102-m (335-ft)
spire the tallest in Bohemia can be seen from
all over the city, and was used in the 19th century
by the imperial land surveyors in laying out
transport routes around Plze. Construction of the
church continued from the late 13th century until
1480. The Sternberg Chapel, adjoining the south
wall of the presbytery, is an early 16th-century
addition, featuring an unusual keystone at the
centre of the vault, and Renaissance paintings. . Cathedral Tower
Originally the
Sculptures in the Cathedral cathedral had two
The church houses a large towers. One collapsed
number of sculptures, when struck by
including the figures of lightning in 1525.
St Barbara, St
Katherine and St
Wenceslas seen on
the pillars of the This small
main nave. tower is over
the main
nave.
Stained-Glass Windows
The magnificent
elongated stained-glass STAR FEATURES
windows in the aisles and
the presbytery, which . Cathedral Tower
provide the entire church
interior with beautiful . Plze Madonna
light, were fitted in the . Sternberg Chapel Main door
early 20th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
P L Z E 165
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Nmst Republiky 41.
Tel 728 308 761.
# AprSep: 10am4pm
WedSat. &
Tower # 10am6pm daily.
& www.pilsen.eu
. Plze Madonna
The statue of the Virgin Mary
Pulpit dating from about 1390, set at
The Gothic pulpit of sandstone, as the centre of the main altarpiece,
well as the magnificent traceried is an outstanding example of the
canopy above it, date from the same International Gothic style.
period as the rood arch figures, and
were made in about 1360.
The presbytery
was given its
present form in
around 1360.
. Sternberg Chapel
The Sternberg family
founded this chapel in
the early 16th century. It
has a beautiful altar
(right) and marvellous
Renaisssance paintings.
Rood Arch
Standing on the beam of
the rood arch are figures
in a Calvary scene. The
Entrance
crucifix was made in the
1470s by the Bohemian
Master of Plze.
166 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
W E S T B O H E M I A 167
Pilsner Urquell
Pilsner beer, produced in Plze Radbuza in 1842 after a dozen or so
since 1842, is prized for its out- independent breweries were amalga-
standing clarity, golden colour and mated. Purpose-built, the brewery
transparency. The beer-making (see p163) was erected on sandy
tradition in Plze goes back to the soil, which made it easy to build
times of Wenceslas II, who granted tunnels and cellars. Word of the new
260 of the towns citizens a licence beer, Pilsner Urquell, quickly spread
to produce this golden liquid. Its around Europe, and it was widely
quality was poor, however, until imitated. Pilsner soon became the
the Plze brewery was estab- Bottle of Pilsner g e n e r i c n a m e f o r b e e r
lished on the banks of the Urquell produced by similar methods.
Cellars and
tunnels of the
brewery, some
10 km (6 miles)
long, are open to
the public. Here,
visitors can see
how the beer is
produced and
stored using
The information centre, the starting traditional
point for a visit, is in a modernized methods.
section of the old brewery.
In the vast
information centre
visitors can view the
unique equipment
and procedures of
beer-making which The label on the
are not used bottles containing
elsewhere in Europe. the original beer
includes at its
centre a picture of
the entrance gate.
Mantn i
Road map A2. * 1,300. @ from
Prague, Plze.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
174 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map A2. * 53,600.
Main and local stations. @
Varavsk. n Lzesk 1. Tel
353 224 097. Fax 353 224 667.
n Smetanovy Sady 1145/1. Tel
353 304 225. Fax 355 321 165.
_ International Film Festival: late
JunJul. www.karlovyvary.cz
Columns of the Mill Colonnade
ML
PA
VL
JI
OV
SK
DO V
St Paul 8
Y
SA
L
H
E
KRL
Mill D
C
Diana Viewpoint 9
N
Church of Colonnade E
B
St Peter and
E
Imperial Baths 1 HO Z M V
K
St Paul ELI
E
V R C CK
V
D
H
L
RA
Karlovy Vary Museum 2 T
N
PE
S K
Market Colonnade 5
L
K I K O
KOLM
Mill Colonnade 6
T
Church of St Mary
Magdalene
TR
Park Colonnade 7 MO
R AV
SK
NA
0 metres 200 KA
DIVADELN
I
U
U NMST
LIB
LO
A L I B U IN A
AR
UK Karlovy Vary
0 yards 200 ST LO
V
Theatre
Funicular NO
K TY
Karlovy Vary L
RO
OV A
Museum U
PO
MAR
INS VA
KOL
ZE
Diana SK
Viewpoint Imperial
Baths
Key to Symbols see back flap
176 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
W E S T B O H E M I A 177
The Tepl
Monastery
Church of the
Annunciation of
the Virgin Mary is
a beautiful
Romanesque
building, part of
the original 12th-
century monastery
complex. Much of
the rest of the
The Premonstratensian Monastery, Tepl, complex was built
15 km (9 miles) east of Marinsk Lzn, was in Baroque style
founded in 1193. The spectacular Neo- in 16891721 by
Baroque Monastery library was added in the K I Dientzenhofer.
1900s and houses about 100,000 volumes.
KLADRUBY
MONASTERY
This Benedictine
monastery,
founded in 1114
by Vladislav I,
became a major
centre of Pemyslid
power. Early in the 18th
century, St Marys, the
original church, was
remodelled by Giovanni
Santini in Baroque style with
some obvious Gothic elements. It
is considered to be the greatest
achievement of this brilliant Czech-born
The new building
architect. In 1785 the monastery was
was designed by closed and rebuilt as a chateau to designs
K I Dientzenhofer by K I Dientzenhofer (see p65).
as a chateau.
NORTH BOHEMIA
O
ne of the most prosperous and industrial parts of the
country for many centuries, divided in two by the Labe
(Elbe), North Bohemia is a diverse and rewarding region to
explore. The attractive main city of Liberec offers a good taste of Czech
culture, while slightly off the beaten track are a surprising number of
castles and atmospheric old towns.
The wealth of North its population has been German.
Bohemia (Severn Many surviving relics of
echy) was based Gothic architecture
principally on the bear witness to the
regions natural mingling of Czech and
resources. Iron ore and coal Saxon cultures. In 1938 a
were mined here from the large part of North Bohemia,
Middle Ages. During the past few dominated by Germans, was
centuries the production of fine incorporated into the Third Reich,
porcelain has played a significant who set up Terezn as a concentration
role in its economy. Unfortunately camp. The forcible expulsion of all
the intensive exploitation of raw local Germans after World War II left
materials, especially strip-mining for many towns and villages deserted.
lignite (brown coal), and industrial These have since been resettled, but
overdevelopment have ravaged the some border areas remain under-
regions landscape. Since 1989, much populated. Roma (Gypsies) live in
has been done to reduce pollution many areas, and tension exists
and limit the ecological damage, but between them and the local Czechs.
even now the dominant features of Tucked away in the region are
much of North Bohemia are factory some remarkably well-preserved or
chimneys and areas of lunar lovingly restored castles, towns and
landscape left by mining works. monasteries. The weird geological
While the region has shared much formations of esk vcarsko
of its history and culture with (Czech Switzerland) attract many
Bohemia, a considerable section of visitors interested in outdoor activities.
Palace in Teplice
Dresden Jlov
ry
H o ST NAD
Dubi LABEM
st nad Labem
Pov
Prague
Podboany
Strojetice
0 km 15
Plzen
0 miles 15
SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3534
Statue of Jan Hus in
Where to Eat pp3845
Louny town square
GETTING AROUND
The easiest way of getting to North Bohemia
from Prague is along D8 motorway (the inter-
national E55 route), which links the Czech
capital with Dresden. The wide road R10 goes
to Liberec, and Turnov. The main transport
route cutting across the entire region, from
Liberec all the way to Chomutov, is the
popular and often congested road 13. Buses
and trains provide reasonable coverage of
North Bohemia but are less frequent during
weekends and holiday periods. Interior staircase, Liberec Town Hall
luknov Gorlitz
Rumburk
Varnsdorf
FRDLANT
Hensko
ESK
Smrk
VCARSKO HEJNICE 1122m
Jetichovice
Labe
Lu
ic J izer
k H Chrastava sk H o
Kamenick ory ry
DN enov
Doksy
be Mlad
La Boleslav
Roudnice
Prague
Arable land beside the road linking Kada with atec
KEY
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Motorway
Beneov nad Plounic 9 Liberec pp1825 1
Main road
esk Lpa 6 Litomice q
Minor road esk vcarsko pp1889 7 Louny u
Main railway Dn 8 Osek Monastery t
Duchcov Palace y Sychrov Palace 5
Minor railway
Frdlant 2 Teplice r
International border Hejnice 3 Terezn w
Regional border Jablonn v Podjetd 4 tk 0
Kada o st nad Labem e
Summit
Klterec nad Oh p atec i
182 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
P Wallenstein Houses
Vtrn.
Just off Sokolovsk nmst in
narrow Vtrn street are some
of the oldest and most inter-
esting buildings in Liberec:
the Wallenstein Houses
(Valdtejnsk domky). The
three buildings of timber-
frame construction and with
street-facing gables date from
167881. They were once
inhabited by cloth-makers,
Lavishly decorated faade of F X aldy Theatre and one was an inn.
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map B2. * 105,000.
Nkladni 495. Tel 972 365
401. @ Vaurova 885.
Tel 482 423 221.
n Nmst Dr E Benee 2/32.
Tel 485 101 709.
www.infolbc.cz
Liberec Castle one of the towns early brick buildings E North Bohemian Museum
Masarykova 11. Tel 485 246 111.
P Liberec Castle and Flemish artists, 19th- # 9am5pm TueSun. &
U tiskrny. to visitors. century French landscapists This eclectic museum is
The original Renaissance and many superb modern housed in a Neo-Renaissance
palace dating from 15837 paintings, drawings and building erected in 18978.
was remodelled several times. sculptures by Czech artists. The large, varied collection
It has a Renaissance chapel There is also a collection of includes glass, ceramics,
with a lovely coffered ceiling, 19th-century German and porcelain, textiles, furniture,
and beautifully carved Austrian painting. clocks and jewellery, much of
wooden oratory supported by it locally produced. There are
five columns. There are plans also photography, archaeology
to turn the castle into a show- and history exhibitions. Partic-
case for local crystalware. ularly valuable is its extraordi-
nary collection of mechanical
E Regional Gallery music instruments.
U tiskrny. Tel 485 106 325.
# 10am6pm TueSun. & Environs
www.ogl.cz A further walk eastwards along
One of the finest galleries in the tree-lined Masarykova
the Czech Republic, this has leads to the Botanical Gardens
been housed in the 1872 Neo- and the Zoo, the oldest (1904)
Renaissance villa of a textile in Bohemia. To the southwest
industrialist, Baron Johann of the centre is one of Liberecs
Liebig. Much of the art landmarks, Jetd peak. On
collection was donated to the the 1012-m (3,320-ft) summit,
town in 1904 by the Liebig reached by cable car, is a 1960s
family; it now includes works Dvorek v Bentkch by August tower, part of a hotel, which
by 16th18th century Dutch Pettenkofen, Regional Gallery offers superb views.
LIBEREC TOWN SO
CENTRE Church of the RYBA S K A
K
O
LS North Bohemian Museum,
Holy Cross H E L IO VA K Botanical Gardens,
Wallenstein Zoo
Church of the VT Houses F
R N R
Holy Cross 6 MAL DL NA
NMST AN F X aldy T
KV A
F X aldy Theatre 3 Theatre 5. OV
DT
SOKOLOVSK S
HU
SK
NMST EL ALDOVO
Liberec Castle 7
U EZN NMST
OM
L Town Hall
Nmst Dr E
JA
H O VA
U
LUC
EM
B
BU Church of O
L
Benee 1 RS
K St Anthony N
EC
C
NMST
PA L A
K
Regional Gallery 8 I
DR E BENEE
R GO VA
O GU TEN BER
KA
FELBER
Sokolovsk Nmst 4 K OVA
SK
KEVS
HO
A
VA
Town Hall 2
PAPRO
PRA
NSK
MOS
Castle
SK
ME
UN
KO
M
NA
SOUKENN Regional
U
NMST R E V R Gallery
EZ
OL B. N
U
N M
B
CO
V
Y
RN
8.
0 yards 200 OB
LA
NA
Jstd peak NA B
ID
. Main Faade
The symmetrical faade
sports a 65-m (210-ft)
tower; in 2005 a knight
with a banner
was
placed
at the
top.
Staircase Ceiling
The painting by A Groll on the ceiling of the
main staircase depicts a female figure sym-
bolizing Liberec and the god of trade, Mercury.
. Staircase
The main staircase to the first-floor state
rooms emphasized the towns wealth with
its use of marble and its sheer size.
Entrance Hall
Marble stairs,
illuminated by
stained-glass
windows
donated by the
guild of bakers,
lead from the Above the
hall to the first- main entrance is
floor rooms. the date of completion,
and a relief by
Theodore Friedel.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
L I B E R E C 185
Drawing
Room
A large stained-
glass window
in the Drawing
Room shows
Liberecs old
town hall,
demolished
in 1893.
Mayoral Offices
The second-floor
drawing room is a part
of the office of the towns
mayor; it is used to hold
official meetings.
Side
Entrance
Two ornate
columns (right)
flank the side
entrance.
STAR FEATURES
. Main Faade
. Staircase
186 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
N O R T H B O H E M I A 187
Baroque crypt below the high collection of French portrait esk vcarsko 7
altar is the tomb of St Zdisla- paintings, unrivalled outside
va, who lived in the 13th cen- France. Antonn Dvok came See pp1889.
tury, the wife of the local lord several times to Sychrov to
of Lemberk (see below). In rest between 1877 and 1880.
1995 she was canonized. The The palace is surrounded by
faade includes Baroque stat- a large English-style garden
ues of saints, including with many exotic trees. Here,
St Zdislava and St Lawrence. concerts are held over the
summer months.
R Basilica of St Lawrence
and St Zdislava
Tel 487 762 105. # MaySep:
TueSun; Apr, Oct: Sat & Sun. esk Lpa 6
www.zdislava.cz
Road map A2. * 40,000. from
Dn, Liberec. @ from Prague.
Environs n Nmst T G Masaryka 2. Tel 487
About 2 km (1 mile) northeast 881 105. www.mucl.cz
of the village is Lemberk Castle,
St Zdislavas home, which has In the 15th century, esk
interesting displays on her life. Lpa (Bhmisch Leipa) was
one of the major centres of Baroque castle in Dn
+ Lemberk Castle the Hussite movement. Later,
Tel 487 762 305. # Apr, Oct: Sat in the 19th century it gained a
& Sun; MaySep: TueSun. & 8 reputation as a dynamic Dn 8
centre of the textile industry,
Road map A2. * 52,400.
producing popular printed
@ from Prague. n Zbrojnick 14.
fabrics. Today esk Lpa is
Tel 412 540 014.
an industrial town with some
interesting architectural sights. Lying on the Labe (Elbe),
The main square is lined Dn (Tetschen) is made up
with attractive houses. All that of the more industrial
remains of the former Renais- Podmokly on the left bank,
sance castle is the lovely and the older Dn on the
decorated 1583 Red House right. In Dn the Church of
(erveny dm), with a magni- the Holy Cross (sv. K) is an
ficent loggia running along its ornate Baroque building from
first floor. The Church of the the late 17th century. The
Holy Cross (sv. K) was town square has a 1906 Art
founded in 1381 and bears Nouveau fountain. The castle
evidence of later remodelling. is a royal fortress built in the
The Regional Museum has a 13th century and adapted in
The Basilica of St Lawrence and St small collection of local the 17th and 18th centuries.
Zdislava in Jablonn v Podjetd historic materials. It is housed Entrance is via Dlouh jzda, a
in the former Augustinian steep, narrow alley built in the
monastery, founded in 1627 1670s. The castle has a superb
Sychrov Palace 5 by Albrecht von Wallenstein. rose garden.
E Regional Museum + Dn Castle
Road map B2. from Liberec.
Tel 487 824 145. # Mar, Apr, Tel 412 518 905. # MarDec:
Tel 482 416 011. # JanMar: 10am
OctDec: WedSun; MaySep: daily; JanFeb: ThuSun. & 8
2pm daily; Apr, Sep, Oct: 9am TueSun. & www.muzeumcl.cz www.zamekdecin.cz
3:30pm daily; MayAug: 9am4:30pm
daily; Nov, Dec: 10am2pm daily. &
8 www.zamek-sychrov.cz
esk vcarsko 7
taurant and J
the National
62
Park Museum.
Mezni Louka
0 km 1
Hensko
1
Mezn
0 miles
Dn
Ka
me
nice
Kamenick
Str
Kamenice Gorge
This narrow gorge
runs between
vertical walls of
rocks, 50150 m
(165500 ft) high.
Boat trips go up-
or downstream. The
Tich Soutska footpath along its
Known as the quiet gorge, this banks was built in
section of Kamenice Gorge the 19th century
stretches for 960 m (3,150 ft). by Italian workers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
N O R T H B O H E M I A 189
Kyjov
Tourist Trails
Sokol vrch The entire area of the
Park has a network of
486 m
(1594 ft)
clearly signposted hiking
and cycling trails.
Doubice
Ostroh
J
484 m
autejn (1588 ft)
Rynartice auntejn
The high rock platform, which once
was the site of the small auntejn
Castle, known also as Robbers
castle (Loupenick hradek),
can now be reached only by a
series of vertical stepladders.
KEY
Road
Beneov rocky ridge, its former Gothic North Bohemian Art Gallery
castle in ruins, but retaining a (Severoesk galerie vtvar-
nad Plounic 9 pleasant inner courtyard. The nho umni) are Bohemian
mightiest part of the towns Gothic altar paintings by the
Road map B2. * 4,000. @
fortifications is Pikartsk v, Master of Litomice.
from Dn. n Nmst Mru 1.
with 2-m (6-ft) thick walls, now During the late 17th and
Tel 412 589 811.
housing the local art gallery. early 18th centuries the archi-
Two 16th-century castles are The narrow town square tect Ottavio Broggio changed
the pride of Beneov, an features several Gothic many of the towns buildings.
attractive town centred houses with street-facing His father Giulio remodelled
on its main square. gables. The Church St Stephens Cathedral (sv.
The 15th-century of St Peter and St Paul tpna), a vast basilica just
Church of the (sv. Petr a Pavel) west of the town centre.
Nativity of the has an altarpiece
E Regional Museum
Virgin Mary by Karel krta.
Dlouh 173. Tel 416 731 339.
(Narozen Panny Unique to the # TueSun. &
Marie) has a 16th- town are the birds
century sandstone houses (pta E Diocesan Museum & Gallery
Mrov Nmst 16/24. Tel 416 732
pulpit. There is Gable of the town hall domky), wooden
382. # TueSun.
also a fine Renais- in Beneov homes perched
sance town hall. on a rocky ledge. E North Bohemian
The castles are in the Saxon They were inhabited by Jew- Art Gallery
Renaissance style, rare in ish families and then in the Michalsk 7. Tel 416 732 382. #
TueSun. & www.galerie-ltm.cz
Bohemia. Both adjoin the 19th century by Italians who
15th-century city walls. The worked on the construction
Upper Castle is partially open of the railway.
to the public due to reno-
E Gallery U Brny
vations following a 1969 fire.
# FebDec: daily.
The Lower Castle has some
interesting interiors.
+ Beneov Castles
Tel 412 586 575. # Apr, Oct: Litomice q
WedSun; MaySep: TueSun. &
www.zamek-benesov.cz Road map B2. * 25,100.
@ from Prague. n Mrov
nmst 15/7. Tel 416 732 440.
tk 0
The beautiful town of
Road map B2. * 2,700. Litomice was founded in the
@ from Litomice. n Mrov 13th century. The zenith of its Detail of a wall-painting in the
nmst 47. Tel 416 795 368. glory was in the mid-15th House at the Chalice, Litomice
www.mesto-ustek.cz century, when it was among
The picturesque buildings of the largest towns in Bohemia.
tk have provided locations Following the Thirty Years Terezn w
for numerous films. This War, in 1655, it became the
sleepy town lies on a narrow seat of a new diocese, the Road map B2. * 3,100. @ from
main centre for re- Prague, Litomice. n Nmst SA
introducing Catholicism 179. Tel 416 782 616.
to North Bohemia. www.terezin.cz
The Renaissance
town hall (radnice) in In 1780 Joseph II began the
the main square construction of a fortified
(Mrov nmst) has garrison to stop the potential
Gothic arcades. Nearby advance of an enemy from the
is the 1537 House at direction of Dresden. The for-
the Chalice (Dm u tress, called Terezn (Theresien-
Kalicha), with a goblet- stadt) in honour of the
shaped roof finial Emperors mother, Maria
symbol of the Hussites. Theresa, took 11 years to build.
In several other old The resulting structure con-
buildings on the square sists of the octagonal Main
is the superb collection Fortress (Hlavn pevnost) and
of religious paintings the rectangular Small Fortress
in the Diocesan (Mal pevnost). A system of
Museum and Gallery corridors, 29 km (18 miles)
(Galerie & Muzeum long, runs under the town.
litomick diecze). Within the Main Fortress is
Picturesque houses in tk town square Near the square, in the Terezn town centre.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
N O R T H B O H E M I A 191
From the second half of the stages of World War II, was Teplice r
19th century the Small Fortress pushed out of plumb by nearly
was used as a jail for political 2 m (6 ft). A fine example of Road map B2. * 53,200. @
prisoners; Serb student Gavrilo modern engineering and from Prague. n Nmst Svobody 2.
Princip, the assassin of architecture is the Marinsky Tel 417 510 666. www.teplice.cz
Archduke Franz Ferdinand, Bridge over the Labe (Elbe),
was kept here until his death. opened in 1998 an unusual Teplice is the oldest health
In 1940 the Small Fortress suspended structure that is resort in Bohemia. The
became a prison and, later, a supported by a single pylon. curative effects of local spring
concentration camp within the waters were recognized as far
Protectorate of Bohemia and Environs back as the 15th century, but
Moravia. In the autumn of 1941 A couple of kilometres from hydrotherapy was only
the Germans transformed the the town centre are the ruins developed in the 19th century.
Main Fortress into a ghetto for of Stekov Castle, perched on In 1879 the spa waters
the Jews, who were brought a steep rock above the Labe. stopped flowing for a while
here from all over Europe, and In 1842 they inspired Wagner after a nearby mining disaster.
subsequently dispatched to to compose his Tannhuser. Much of the old town centre
death camps. In the Krsne Bezno district, was destroyed by the
The Ghetto Museum inside Communists, but the palace,
the main fortress uses artefacts, built in 15851634, survives,
photographs and videos to give and was later rebuilt in
a detailed and shocking picture Baroque and Neo-Classical
of ghetto life. This continues in styles. In the palace chapel it
the Magdeburg Barracks where is worth taking a closer look
the cramped conditions are re- at the Renaissance altarpiece
constructed. Exhibits also cover now used as a tombstone a
the ghettos rich cultural life. fine 1420 work by an Italian
master. The palace also
P Small Fortress houses Teplice Museum. St
Principova Alej 304. Tel 416 782
Johns church (sv. Jan) in the
225. # daily. &
town square has rich Baroque
E Ghetto Museum and paintings inside.
Magdeburg Barracks
Komenskho. Tel 416 782 577. P Teplice Museum
# daily. & Zmeck Nmst 14. Tel 417 537
Interior of the church of the
869. # TueSun. &
Assumption in st nad Labem
Duchcov Palace y
Road map B2. @ from Prague,
Most. Tel 417 835 301. # Apr, Oct:
9am4pm WedSun; MaySep:
9am5pm TueSun (JunAug: to
6pm). & 8
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
N O R T H B O H E M I A 193
EAST BOHEMIA
S
cenery is the star attraction in much of East Bohemia, an area
of exceptional diversity. The flat, somewhat monotonous
landscape around Hradec Krlov and Pardubice forms a
marked contrast with the dramatic scenery to the north in the
Krkonoe mountain range, which draws visitors in summer and
winter alike to Snka, the highest peak in the Czech Republic.
The capital of East Jin includes esk rj (the
B o h e m i a ( V c h o d n Bohemian Paradise), a land
echy), Hradec Krlov, full of castle ruins and
is a town that has passed extraordinary geological
through many stages of formations, exceptionally
development from Slav rich in precious minerals.
settlement, through medieval Central and eastern parts of
stronghold and Baroque fortress, to East Bohemia are characterized
showcase for spectacular Modernist by the extensive, flat plain around the
architecture in the 1920s. The regions River Labe (Elbe). The towns in this
other large towns Pardubice, with its region suffered badly in the Thirty
famous steeplechase course, and Litomyl, Years War (see p39), and their
with its imposing Renaissance palace and prosperity declined. This resulted in
its links with the Czech national recolonization and Germanization, but
composer, Bedich Smetana are also also in the development of Baroque art
beautiful and interesting places to explore. and architecture. East Bohemia has
The Krkonoe and Orlick mountain many fine works by Kilian Ignaz
ranges form the northern border of the Dientzenhofer, Giovanni Santini and
region and the country. They attract Matthias Braun. A special place among
many visitors keen on skiing and hiking. the historic buildings of the region
Within the Krkonoe range, the Krkonoe must be given to the castle and church
National Park and its flora are strictly complex in Kuks a unique structure
protected. The region near Turnov and born on a whim of Count pork.
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SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3545
P White Tower
Franuova 1. Tel 495 514 722.
# AprSep: 9amnoon, 15pm daily.
The 72-m (235-ft) tall
Renaissance belfry next to the
cathedral was erected in 1589.
The white stone used as the
building material gave the
structure its name White
Tower (Bl v), though the
stone is now grey. The bell
inside, nicknamed Augustin,
is Bohemias second-largest.
Do not be misled by the
replacement clock that was
Town Hall and White Tower in Velk nmst fitted in the White Tower in
1829: the small hand points
Exploring the Town 1717 in thanksgiving for to the minutes, and the large
The oldest part of the town, sparing the town from the one to the hours!
with historic buildings plague of the previous year.
clustered around the two The monument is probably R Church of the Assumption
medieval squares, by sculptor and architect of the Virgin Mary
occupies high ground G B Bullo. Adjoining The church (Nanebevzet
between the two rivers the square to the Panny Marie) was built for
(see also pp2001). northeast is the smaller the Jesuit Order by Carlo
The New Town, built medieval square Lurago in the mid-17th century.
in 192030, starts on Mal nmst. One hundred years later the
the east, and con- church burned down and
tinues on the west R Cathedral of the only the chapel of St Ignatius
bank of the Labe. Holy Ghost Loyola, with its wall paintings
The magnificent brick and a picture by Petr Brandl
P Velk nmst Gothic Cathedral of the glorification of the saint,
One of the most Relief from the house of the Holy Ghost was spared. The present
opulent buildings opposite the cathedral (Katedrla sv. faade, graced with two
in the former Ducha), founded towers, dates from 1857. The
market square is the old town in 1307, is evidence of the former Jesuit College, the long
hall (radnice). This Gothic towns wealth in the early building to the right of the
edifice, erected before 1418, 14th century. In 1424 the church, dates from 16711710.
was remodelled in the late 16th
century in the Renaissance
style. At that time it was used
as the town prison. In 1786 it
acquired two clock towers.
On the south side of the
square stands the Bishops
Palace, one of the towns finest
Baroque buildings. Its designer
was Giovanni Santini, who
also designed its magnificent
entrance portal. Adjacent is the
charming, small-scale Baroque
pulak House (Dm U
pulk). It was remodelled in
1750 by F Kermer. The 20-m
(66-ft) column was erected in Interior of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
H R A D E C K R L O V 199
HRADEC KRALOVE
SMET
TOWN CENTRE
ANOV
ELINO
KA
RLA
Church of the Assumption IV Former
NBE
DIVIOVA K Synagogue
ENS
BE
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of the Virgin Mary 4 MASARYKOVO OS LO V MD
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NMST ESK PL
East Bohemian East Bohemian POS
Regional Museum
Regional Museum 7 Train and bus stations PA
L AC
K
HO STAR MSTO
Former Synagogue 6 1.5 km (1G Omile) V
KO D LO U H MAL
R
KL CP ER OV
PE
Modern Art Gallery 5 NOV O V ANMST
ZK
Prask K NMST
Bridge T O M K O VA
U
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Prask Bridge 8 MSTOH Modern
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A
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St Clement Chapel
Squeezed between the Town Hall and the
White Tower is the Baroque St Clement
Chapel (1716). It would be easy to miss it,
were it not for its golden crown glittering
in the sunlight, visible from any point
in the main square.
Plague Column
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. Cathedral of the
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This Gothic brick church This Empire-style
founded in 1307 has slender covered staircase with
stained-glass windows and a three cupolas was
magnificent high altar. built in 1810 on the
site of the Fishermans
KEY Gate, which once
formed part of the
Suggested route
towns fortifications.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
H R A D E C K R L O V 201
Mal Nmst
In this smaller square is a 1718 statue of
St John Nepomuk with two angels. Its
fine buildings include the houses at No.
129 with Renaissance sgraffito on the
faade, and No. 127 with a beautiful
hall ceiling.
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STAR SIGHTS
. Cathedral of the
Former Canons Houses Holy Ghost
Seen along the south side of the square are
former canons houses lovely Renaissance . Town Hall
buildings with eye-catching gables.
202 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
E A S T B O H E M I A 203
leby Castle 7
Road map B2. @ from slav.
Tel 327 398 121. # Apr, Oct: 9am
4pm Sat, Sun, public hols; MaySep:
9am4pm TueSun. & 8 2 routes.
www.zamek-zleby.cz
Jin w
Road map B2. * 16,700. @
from Prague. n Valdtejnovo nmst
1. Tel 493 534 390. _ Fairytale
Festival (Sep). www.jicin.org
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
E A S T B O H E M I A 207
rock town of
Hruboskalsk.
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Ceramic Altar, Harrachov 1POJLM
&M
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map C2. n Svatopetrsk
173, pindlerv Mln. Tel 499
523 656. n Krkonosk 8,
Vrchlab (National Park
Information). Tel 499 405 744.
Emergency (Mountain rescue)
Horsk sluby. Tel 112 or 155.
www.spindleruvmlyninfo.cz
Studnini hora
This is the third-highest peak in Bohemia; its eastern
and southern slopes are notorious for their frequent
avalanches. Snow here may reach 14 m (46 ft) deep.
Rich Plantlife
The varied environment, including mountain
forests, meadows, glacial basins, sub-Arctic peat
moors and ridge fells, supports many rare plants.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
E A S T B O H E M I A 211
Josefov p
Road map C2. * 12,000. to
Jarom, 1 km (0.5 mile) N of Josefov.
T
his region of the Czech Republic is associated mainly with the
historic town of Olomouc and the industrial landscape of the
Silesian mines and steelworks. Yet it has other facets: the
beautiful mountain ranges of Jesenky and Beskydy; Bouzov and
Hradec castles; a large number of traditional Wallachian wooden
houses; and the fascinating Javosk Caves.
From the earliest days of atmosphere of the days
the Czech state until before vast industrial-
the 17th century the ization took place.
capital of Moravia was Silesia has been
Olomouc. This lovely disputed territory
town, full of historic sights, historically. It was part of
is now a major educational the Bohemian lands until
and cultural centre and an excellent 1745 when Empress Maria
base for exploring its picturesque Theresa lost almost the whole of
environs. The eastern border of Silesia to Prussia. Today, Czech
North Moravia (Severn Morava) is Silesia has its capital in Opava, a
defined by the Beskydy range, a town that suffered severe devastation
region furrowed by deep valleys in the course of the Thirty Years
with fast-running rivers. Beskydy is War and again in World War II. The
the site of an open-air museum much larger town of Ostrava is a
(skansen), the largest and most centre of mining and steel industries
interesting in the Czech Republic, and one of the main economic hubs
located in Ronov pod Radhotm. of the Czech Republic. An unusual
The central and northern parts of aspect of todays Silesia is the
the region are occupied by the presence of a 40,000-strong Polish
Jesenky mountains covered with minority a homogenous native
dense evergreen forests and still community which retains its
maintaining, to a large degree, an language and culture.
Losiny
Hradec Krlov Sobotn
Bruntl
umperk
Rmaov Valov
Zbeh
KEY
Motorway
Main road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Temen International border
Regional border
Summit
Krnov
Mal
Heratice
OPAVA Kravae
Slavkov Bohumn
Hlun
HRADEC NAD MORAVIC
CASTLE Orlova Karvin
Poruba
Dvorce Mo OSTRAVA
rav Kajlovec
ice
LIPNK
Frentt pod
Radhotm sk ydy
Be
NAD BEVOU va
Radho t
Smrk
1275m
Be
1129m
Valask Mezi
RONOV POD Bl
RADHOTM
Bystice p. Hostnem
Velk Karlovice
Karolinka ilina
Vsetn
GETTING AROUND
Ostrava airport has flights to
0 km 10
and from Prague and several European
cities. After World War I the railway line linking
0 miles 10
Prague with Ostrava was Czechoslovakias main transport
artery and connection with Slovakia. Today it remains one SEE ALSO
of the main trunk-lines in this part of Europe. Around the
region, train transport is good to major towns, but Where to Stay pp3556
relatively sparse off the beaten track due to the mountains. Where to Eat pp3878
Buses are often the easiest means of public transport.
216 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
1.
CK
JE M
1. M
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P EKAS K
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218 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
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T!
Arion Fountain
The work of Ivan Theimer and a Tuscan
artist, Angela Chiantelli, this fountain
depicting the ancient poet Arion was 0 metres 100
produced in 2002 to a design created by
the Olomouc councillors 350 years ago. 0 yards 100
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
O L O M O U C 219
Chapel Oriel
In 1488 the remodelled chapel
of the town hall was given a
lavishly decorated oriel,
unique in the Czech
Republic.
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KEY
Suggested route
Nmt Javosk
na Han Caves 4
Palace 3 Road map C3. 4 km (2 miles) S of
Bouzov. @ from Bouzov.
Road map C3. 13 km
Tel 585 345 451. # JanMar, Nov:
(8 miles) W of Olomouc.
10am1pm MonFri; Apr, Oct:
@ from Prostjov,
9am3pm TueSun; MaySep:
Olomouc. Tel 585 952 184.
9am5pm TueSun. & 8
# Apr, Oct: 9am4pm Sat,
Sun; MaySep: 9am5pm The maze of limestone caves
TueSun. & (jeskyn) discovered here in
1938 stretches for over 3 km
The palace, with its (2 miles). Part of the subterra-
mansard roof typical nean complex, nearly 700 m
of late 18th-century (2,300 ft) long, is open to the
French architecture, public. Its chambers, some of
was built in 176063 which are more than 10 m
by Ferdinand (33 ft) high, feature extra-
Bonaventura Harrach. ordinary stalactite formations.
Its two ground-floor
wings surround a
courtyard that ends
with a gate leading to
the palace garden. Laid
out in the shape of a
Plumlov Palace beside Plumlov Reservoir perfect circle, the
garden is crisscrossed
Plumlov Palace 2 by four avenues of lime trees
leading to the four points of
Road map C3. 7 km (4 miles) W of the compass.
Prostjov. @ from Prostjov, Riches of the interior
Olomouc. Tel 582 393 217. include the Red and the
# Apr, Oct: 16pm Sat, Sun, public Gold Parlours with Rococo,
hols; May, Jun, Sep: 10am6pm; Jul, Classical and Empire furnish-
Aug: 10am6pm TueSun. & ings; there is also an extensive
library. Large collections of Inside the Giants cathedral,
An astonishing sight, Plumlov Meissen porcelain and the Javosk Caves
Palace is a tall, three-storey stately coaches are housed in
structure (there are two the ground-floor wings, from
further, intermediate storeys the collection of the Olomouc Bouzov Castle 5
inside), which is also Archbishopric.
unusually flat. The entire The palace Chapel of Road map C3. 12 km (7 miles)
faade is lavishly decorated the Holy Trinity took an Mohelnice. Tel 585 346 202. # Apr,
with columns, cornices, extraordinarily long time to Oct: 9am3pm Sat, Sun; MaySep:
stuccoes and balustrades. be completed; the building 9am5pm TueSun (to 6pm Jun
The palaces unusual shape works started in 1672 and Aug). & 8
is due to its history. The 17th- ended 50 years later. In 1834
century prince-bishop Karl it was remodelled in the Founded in the 14th century,
Eusebius of Liechtenstein, Empire style. Bouzov Castle (Busau) was
Lord of Valtice, designed a
huge four-wing palace that
was to be the most beautiful
residence in Moravia. Unfortu-
nately his son, Jan Adam, sad-
dled by his father with the
responsibility of accomplish-
ing the task, was unable to
meet the financial demands
associated with the project.
The family became embroiled
in arguments about financial
affairs and consequently, by
the end of the century, only
one wing was completed and
roofed. This now serves as a
small museum and a venue
for a variety of cultural events. Interior of the palace in Nmt na Han
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
N O R T H M O R AV I A A N D S I L E S I A 221
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
N O R T H M O R AV I A A N D S I L E S I A 223
E Pbor Museum
Lidick 50. Tel 556 725 191.
# Tue, Thu, Sun. &
Nov Jin w
Road map D3. * 26,200. @ from
Olomouc. n zk 27. Tel 556 711
888. www.novyjicin.mic.cz
S O U T H M O R AV I A
T
he wealth of historic remains in this region would enthral
most visitors. Around virtually every corner you are likely to
come across lovely towns and villages or imposing monas-
teries, castles and palaces. The stunning Renaissance town of Tel, the
archbishops residence in Kromi, and the Lednicko-Valtick park
and palace complex are all UNESCO World Heritage sites.
South Moravia (Jin Elsewhere in the region there
Morava), once a are architectural treasures
frontier region of the from most periods:
Roman Empire, was the Znojmos magnificent
cradle of the first state Romanesque rotunda;
set up by the Slavs, who the splendid Gothic
arrived in the region from castle of Perntejn; the
Eastern Europe. The so-called Great Renaissance gem of Tel; and
Moravian Empire (see p33) lasted the Baroque castle in Valtice. Besides
from 830 until the early 10th century, the buildings that testify to Moravias
when Magyars made incursions strong links with Catholicism, there
into Moravian territory. In the are also many sights associated with
subsequent centuries South Moravia the history of the regions Jewish
was the scene of some of the most population, including those in
momentous events in the history of Boskovice, Mikulov and Teb.
the Czech Lands. While South Moravias hills and
The capital of the region (and of the forests are similar to Bohemias, the
whole of Moravia) is Brno. This southern part of the region is flatter
university town, the second largest in and more open. Home to fertile
the Czech Republic, is often vineyards, it has a long tradition of
neglected by visitors, but it has a winemaking. Around Mikulov and
pleasant and compact historic centre other southern towns it is worth
as well as a modernist landmark, visiting the historic cellars, and
Mies van der Rohes Villa Tugendhat. tasting the highly respected wines.
BOSKOVICE
Prague Nedvedice
PERNTEJN
Meziko CASTLE
JIHLAVA Rjec-Jestebi
Kianov
Kostelec Kamenice
MORAVSK KRAS
Velk Mezi TINOV Blansko
Stonaov
Tet Velk Bte
VYSOINA Sv
KTINY
ra
Os
Trnava tk
la
a
va
TEB Ostrovaice
TEL Jih
Hory lav BRNO
a
Rosice
GETTING AROUND
Brno lies at the junction of major transport routes. The D1
motorway cuts through the centre of the region linking Prague
to Brno, and continuing to Silesia and Ostrava. The D2 heads
south from Brno towards Bratislava and Slovakia. Running
through the eastern part of the region, through Otrokovice and
Beclav, is the main railway line linking Warsaw with Vienna,
Oriel of a house in Tels main via Bratislava, but generally the train network in South Moravia
square is not as good as in Bohemia.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Btov e Moravsk kras 5
Boskovice 4 Perntejn Castle 6
Brno pp22831 1 Slavkov u Brna 2
Buchlovice Chateau i Tel 0
Jaromice nad Rokytnou Tinov 7
Chateau w Teb q
Jihlava 9 Velehrad Monastery o
Krom pp24041 p Vranov nad Dyj Chateau r
Ktiny 3 dr nad Szavou 8
Lednicko-Valtick arel u Zln a
Luhaovice s Znojmo t
Mikulov y
SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3567
Olomouc
Senetov Olomouc
Ostrava
Vsetn
Holeov
KROM
st
Vykov Frytk
ejkovice
Dubany Velk
nad Velikou
Hodonn 0 km 4
Nov Mesto
nad Vhom
Trnava 0 miles 4
Beclav
KEY
Vienna
Motorway
Bratislava
Main road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Regional border
Lednice castle gardens, in the Lednicko-Valticky arel
228 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Villa Tugendhat
BRNO CITY CENTRE
VA KO
O
Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul 1 RE MORAVSK
T
LI
A NMST Sady
M
Church of the Holy Cross 2 EROTNOVO
Osvobozeni
NMST VA
N D LO
Moravian Gallery 7 BRA Moravian Gallery
(Mstodritelsk palc)
Nmst Svobody 6 TOV
A
K
JO ITS
New Town Hall 5 KOMENSKHO ZU
JE
NMST
E
JAKUBSK
RO
I N
SK
OS
D
R AY
LN
SO
BH OUN SK
O
EV
LI
Zeln trh 3
LN
INO
E LT
KO Z
OVA
YT DV O K
SK R
VA
OV
Moravian Gallery
New Town
(UPM) K
VA
Hall NS
S K
PA
EO
RL
HUS
BRAN
ME
St Michaels O
BEN
Augustinian Church
O V
N O VO
Monastery
O VA
0 yards 250
Cathedral of St Peter Church of the
LEITNER
A N
Bus station
PE
N DR
Brno: pilberk
A hilltop castle was built on this site by a Moravian
margrave, the future Pemysl Otakar II, in the 13th
century, but pilberk gained the status of a true royal
residence only 400 years later, when it was transformed
into a mighty Baroque fortress. After the Napoleonic
wars, the castle became a prison and gained a reputa-
tion as one of the harshest symbols of Habsburg
repression. pilberk was also used as a prison by the
Nazis. Displays inside relate to Brno and the castle.
Concerts and plays are staged here in summer.
Coat of Arms
The coat of arms with a twin-
headed eagle and an imperial
crown is a reminder that pilberk
was one of the main fortresses
defending the mighty
Habsburg Empire.
From Renaissance
to Modernism
This permanent
exhibition displays
works by painters
and sculptors associated
with Brno, from the mid-
16th century to 1945.
Tower
The tower at the northeast
corner of the castle provides
an excellent viewpoint over-
looking the entire pilberk
area. It is also used
for staging
exhibitions.
. Chapel
. Dungeons Little remains of the original Gothic
This maze of dark, dank subterranean corridors castle. The Gothic look of the eastern
was transformed, in the reign of Emperor Joseph wing, and of the chapel, dates from
II, into a series of unbelievably gruesome prison controversial reconstruction work
cells, particularly those in the north wing. carried out in the 1990s.
232 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
S O U T H M O R AV I A 233
Perntejn Castle 6
Road map C3. @ Nedvdice,
2 km (1 mile) from Perntejn.
Tel 566 566 101. # Apr, Oct: 9am
noon, 13pm Sat, Sun, public hols;
MaySep: 9amnoon, 14pm Tue
Sun (Jul & Aug: to 5pm). & 8
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
S O U T H M O R AV I A 235
Jihlava 9
Road map C3. * 51,300. @
n Masarykovo nmst 96/2.
Tel 567 167 158. www.jihlava.cz
Jaromice
nad Rokytnou
Chateau w
Road map C3. @ 2 km (1 mile)
away in Popovice. Tel 568 440 237.
# Apr, Oct: 8am3pm Sat, Sun,
public hols; May, Jun, Sep: 9am4pm
TueSun; JulAug: 9am5pm Tue
Sun. & 8 www.zamek-jaromerice.cz
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
S O U T H M O R AV I A 237
The Renaissance
New Synagogue
in Teb dates
from the early
17th century. Its
recently restored
interior includes
some remarkable,
strikingly colourful
wall paintings.
Boskovices Grand
Synagogue, built in
1698, features lavish
Baroque decoration.
Used as a storehouse
under Communist rule,
this fine building has
now been restored
(see p233).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
S O U T H M O R AV I A 239
Buchlovice
Chateau i
Road map D3. @ Tel 572 434 240.
# Apr, Oct: 9am4pm TueSun;
May, Jun, Sep: 9am5pm TueSun;
Jul, Aug: 9am6pm daily. & 7
www.zamek-buchlovice.cz
Krom p
Bedroom
The bedroom and the
adjacent study form the
Winter Quarters. The
pseudo-Renaissance
19th-century furniture
came from Venice.
Throne
room
The tower soars
84 m (280 ft) above
ground level.
North
faade
. Imperial Room
The portraits in this room include
one of Franz Josef I, who was one of
the many distinguished visitors to
the palace. The emperor and Tsar
Alexander III went hunting
together here and their trophies
can be seen in the Hunting Hall.
Staircase
Accessed via a fine staircase is the
palaces art gallery (Zmeck
obrazrna), which has an
impressive collection of European
paintings from the 16th and
17th centuries.
Library
The library rooms were laid out in
1694. Still in beautiful condition, they
house 90,000 volumes dating from the
16th and 17th centuries.
STAR FEATURES
. Assembly Hall
. Imperial Room
INTRODUCING
SLOVAKIA
DISCOVERING SLOVAKIA
S lovakia, tagged on to the
southeast end of the Czech
Republic in the heart of
Central Europe, combines a
dynamic economy with a wealth
Austria and Hungary. The Small
Carpathian mountain range runs
through West Slovakia and boasts
a blossoming viticulture while
Central Slovakias lush valleys
of natural assets: mountains, are home to medieval mining
lakes, unspoilt valleys and towns and villages nestling in the
meadows, spectacular ice caves shelter of the mighty Tatras
and national parks. The capital, mountains. In the east, the region
Bratislava, sits at the western tip Fountain in is dotted with dozens of caves
of the country and borders both Bratislava and quaint wooden churches.
BRATISLAVA
Spectacularly located on
the Danube River between
Vienna and Budapest,
Bratislava effortlessly com-
bines the history, culture,
architecture and cuisine of
three very different nations:
Slovakia, Austria and Hungary.
History and hedonism
intertwine in the Slovak The cobbled streets of Bratislavas Old Town
capitals Old Town (see
pp2767) where, in the Cathedral (see pp2801), a
warmer months, cafs set Gothic treasure. The pretty WEST SLOVAKIA
their tables outside, in front pink Primates Palace (see
of ancient Baroque palaces. pp2789) is a fine example Castles and romantic palaces
The Old Towns pedestrian of Neo-Classical architecture, Trnavas religious treasures
cobbled streets are ideal for while the Little Blue Church Pietanys spa
strolling around and the (see p284) is an unusual Art
centre boasts an impressive Nouveau building. The sun-drenched plains
variety of architectural styles To the northwest of of West Slovakia were once
from the turreted Castle (see Bratislavas urban sprawl and the scene of conflict in
p278) on the north embank- upstream on the Danube is Slovakias busy history.
ment of the Danube to the Devn (see p285), a ruined Eighteenth-century Hungarian
pocket-sized St Martins castle teetering on a high nobles built many palaces
crag above the river. The and castles only to ruin them
castle and surrounding in the heat of battle. Some,
region are popular among like Mojmrovce Palace (see
nature lovers and sports pp3045), have been
enthusiasts, and the riverside restored as luxury hotels,
paths offer an idyllic retreat located in magnificent park
from the summer heat. surroundings. Others, such
The local winemaking as Beckov Castle and achtice
tradition of the Small Carpa- Castle (see pp3001), are
thian mountains has its roots testimony-in-rubble to the
in the town of Raa (see p285) regions turbulent past. The
on Bratislavas outskirts. Grape latter is where Blood
harvest festivals are held here Countess Elizabeth Bthory
and in Modra (see p286). The was walled up as punish-
crisp white wines from this ment for her bloodthirsty
region are of good quality and behaviour.
Dining out on one of Bratislavas excellent value; vineyards are The town of Trnava (see
pedestrianized streets, Old Town dotted around the area. pp2969) has a magnificent
CENTRAL SLOVAKIA
Koice and Preov in the east, ilina in the north,
and Nitra near the capital. The Carpathian mountain
range stretches across most of Slovakias territory.
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I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A 249
A P O R T R A I T O F S L O VA K I A
F
or nine centuries Slovakia was a province of the Kingdom
of Hungary; later, in the 20th century, it was for 70 years part
of Czechoslovakia. Gaining its independence in 1993, it is one
of Europes youngest countries. Its attractions include its natural
environment, beautifully preserved architecture and rich folk culture.
Although it has plenty of Due to Slovakias mountainous
attractions, Slovakia remains a character, there are consider-
relatively little-known able areas of wilderness, with
country, with few visitors. the environment unscathed
The most popular destination by development. There are
is the capital city of not many other countries in
Bratislava, with its historic Central Europe with such
architecture, shops and visitor large areas of unspoilt
facilities. Lovers of good wine mountains, meadows and
will most likely be familiar Decorative ancient forests. There are
clay hive
with the region of the Small also deep gorges, spectac-
Carpathians, which tradition- ular caves and meandering
ally produces very drinkable Slovak rivers. Almost one half of the land is
wine; winter sports enthusiasts devoted to agriculture, while mineral
crowd into ski resorts in the Tatras resources include iron, brown coal,
mountains, and in the Mal (Small) copper, magnesium and salt.
and Velk (Great) Fatra ranges.
Slovaks, particularly the young, are FOLK CULTURE
generally welcoming and hospitable In Slovakia, traditional folk culture
to visitors, and proud of their forms a part of everyday life and
country and its history. customs. Costumes in a variety of
Illustration from the life of Jnok, the popular Slovak Robin Hood figure, by Ludovit Kamenik (1959)
250 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A
View from Bratislava Castle of the Danube with the New Bridge on the right
styles, ornaments and colours are not the dramatic national conflict that
confined to museums; they are also arose in the second half of the 19th
worn (particularly in Central and century. The situation of the Roma
Eastern Slovakia) during local minority, the second-largest
festivities and celebrations, especially at about 350,000, is hard. In
by the women. Pottery, basket work many regions, mainly in the
and other handmade products are east, large Roma commu-
still used in many homes for nities live in great poverty,
everyday purposes. Wooden folk without any prospect of
buildings exist in situ and are also improving their lot.
preserved in open-air museums to
form traditional villages or skansen. RELIGIOUS LIFE
Slovakia, as opposed to
ETHNIC MINORITIES the secularized Czech
Of Slovakias population of 5.4 Republic, is a country
million, over 85 per cent are Slovaks, where religious life and
according to official statistics. The traditions remain very
most significant minorities are the strong. The majority of the
Hungarians, found mainly in the population, nearly 70 per
south, Roma (Gypsies), Ukrainians, cent, declare themselves to
Czechs, Poles, and Ruthenians be Roman Catholics, but
(Rusyns) in the east. Slovak- there are sizeable Statue of St Cyril, by
Hungarian relations are now friendly, groups attached to Jozef Bart
INDEPENDENCE
The 19th-century process of
national rebirth strength-
ened the feeling of national
identity among Slovaks and
consolidated their aspira-
tions to become an inde-
pendent nation. The
desire for autonomy within
the Austro-Hungarian Empire
and later Czechoslovakia,
voiced by consecutive Chairlift station in Skalnat pleso, the High Tatras
generations of politicians,
had never been realized. Ironically, enthusiasts will appreciate the local
the first opportunity to achieve a skiing conditions the best in
semblance of independence arose Central Europe. Marked cycle routes
within the puppet state created of 3,500 km (2,175 miles) allow
according to Hitlers wishes in 1939; cyclists to undertake long-distance
the Slovak National Uprising against expeditions, while several thousand
the Germans of 1944 is a key event hiking trails lead through the most
in the national con- beautiful mountainous
sciousness. The dream of areas. Liptovsk mara and
independence came true other artificial reservoirs
only through the Velvet offer good sailing and
Divorce, following the windsurfing; the waters of
break-up of Czechoslovakia the Vh, Hron and Nitra
in January 1993. Slovakia rivers enable white water
became a member of the Slovak Republic in the rafters to indulge their
EU and NATO in 2004. European Union popular passion.
Beautiful churches in
SLOVAKIAS DIVERSE ATTRACTIONS styles ranging from the Romanesque
An undeniable trump card of modern to Art Nouveau are a feature of many
Slovakia is the wide range of towns and cities. In the Slovak
attractions it offers to those interested landscape numerous castles and
in outdoor activities. Winter sports ruined fortresses stand out. Those in
lowland areas such
as Spi Castle have
huge fortifications.
Those in the moun-
tains, such as Oravsk,
mostly cling, like
eagles nests, to the
rocks. The abundance
of castles testifies to
the regions turbulent
history, a history that
makes an essential and
vivid contribution to
St Martins Cathedral in Spisk Kapitula, East Slovakia Slovakias appeal.
252 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A
LOWLANDS
The lowland areas are concentrated in the
south of the country. In the southwest, dunes
and forests growing on sandy soil dominate.
The areas further to the east, including the
Danube Lowland, where the Vh joins the
Danube, and the East Slovakian Lowland, are
intensely farmed. The most popular crops,
besides cereals, include sugar beet, tobacco,
hops, rape and sunflowers.
Water chestnuts
were eaten in times of
famine. They grow in
ponds and old river
beds, including the
valleys of the
Danube, Cisa and Sunflowers are widely cultivated throughout
Latorica rivers, but Slovakia. In the summer, when the crops flower, vast
are becoming areas of the Danube Lowland and East Slovakian
increasingly rare. Lowland are covered with a yellow carpet.
Jasovsk jaskya, a
cave with particularly
lovely stalactites, is
home to several
species of bats.
FORESTS
It is estimated that forests cover over 30 per
cent of Slovakias territory. In the mountainous
regions the forests are predominantly natural,
with spruce, sycamore and beech; lower
sections are covered with oak forests. Pine
and mixed forests have colonized the poorer
soils. Acid rain has affected Slovakias forests,
but not as severely as in the Czech Republic.
FAUNA
Slovak fauna is not as diverse as its flora but it does
feature many interesting species. Along with the animals
that inhabit lowlands, such as deer, fox and bear, there
are also species typical of high mountain zones
chamois and marmot. Forested riverbanks are home to
waterfowl such as cormorant, heron and crane. In the
areas around the Danube, marshy
meadows are home to the great
bustard, now an endangered species.
The brown bear is the largest
land predator in Slovakia. It is
The lynx, a a good swimmer, and can
predator of the climb steep slopes.
cat family,
inhabits upper
and lower forest The great bustard
zones; it is inhabits Central and
becoming in- Eastern Europe. It is the
creasingly rare. worlds heaviest flying bird.
254 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A
Slovak Architecture
From medieval times until the fall of the
Habsburgs Slovak architecture was linked
with Hungarian culture. The south of the
country also looked to Vienna for its
inspiration, while the north tended to follow
local traditions. Bratislava, which for a long
time was the capital of the Hungarian king-
dom, acquired many splendid residential
buildings. For centuries the finest buildings in
Slovakia were churches, particularly those
of the Late Gothic, and the opulent Baroque
monasteries. The 19th and 20th centuries saw The town hall in Bardejov, combining Gothic
a rapid development of urban architecture. and Renaissance features
MIDDLE AGES
The predominant architectural
features of the early Middle
Ages were fortified towns and
castles. Small churches were
built until the mid-14th
century. Rapid growth of
religious architecture
particularly in Bratislava and
the Spi region took place
during the 15th century. The
spectacular Gothic churches in
Levoa, Bardejov and Kremnica
date from this period.
RENAISSANCE
Renaissance architecture concentrated mainly on
secular buildings: castles, courts and palaces. It
reached its apogee in the second half of the 16th
and the early 17th century. The Italian styles,
modified in Austria, south Germany, and Poland,
acquired their specific local flavour in Slovakia.
For instance, high roofs, ornate attics and plain
undivided faades, with rustication at the corners,
became its typical features.
BAROQUE
Slovakia is particularly rich in Baroque architectural
works, some of which are of international standing.
Many were built in Bratislava, the coronation city of the
Hungarian kings, in the 18th century. The royal status of
the city attracted wealthy investors and prominent artists
from Vienna, including G B Martinelli, A G Bibiena and
G R Donner. At that time many monasteries were built
in southern and central Slovakia, particularly for the
Franciscan and Jesuit orders.
This detail
The Slovak National Theatre in Bratislava from a house in
(see p282) was built in Neo-Renaissance Koice is typical
style during 18858 by Viennese architects of decorations
Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer, used at the turn of
who specialized in designing theatres and the 19th and 20th
opera houses. centuries.
256 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A
JULY
SUMMER
Folk Festival (early Jul),
Most folk festivals take place Detva, Central Slovakia.
in the summer, when many Vchodn Folklore
regions, towns and villages Festival (early Jul),
present their local customs Vchodn, north
and cuisine. The largest Slovakia.
events offer a chance to Pilgrimage to Marian
meet artists from many parts Sanctuary (1st Sat in Jul),
of the world. Levoa, East Slovakia.
The best-attended
pilgrimage in Slovakia,
with hundreds of Folk festival in Detva, Central Slovakia
thousands of Catholics,
marking the start of The countrys biggest folk
many such pilgrimages festival celebrating the
in Slovakia. highway robber, Juraj Jnok
International Handicraft (16881713), who robbed
Exhibition (mid-Jul), nobles and gave to the poor.
Kemarok, East Slovakia. Kysucer Pilgrimage (15 Aug),
International Folk Oadnica near ilina,
Festival in Novohrad (2731 Central Slovakia. Colourful,
Jul), Luenec, Central lively and often crowded
Slovakia. A unique European- religious festivities.
scale event, held at the same Summer Festival (Aug),
time on both sides of the Poprad, East Slovakia, on the
Golden fields in the Small Slovak-Hungarian border. edge of the High Tatras.
Carpathians in midsummer International Historic Fencing
AUGUST Festival (mid-Aug). This is
JUNE one of the attractions that
Jnok Days (36 Aug), brings to life the vast ruins of
Folk Festival (34 Jun), Terchov, Central Slovakia. Spi Castle, East Slovakia.
Humenn, East Slovakia.
Horehronsk Dni, Hepa
(late Jun). Three-day folklore
festival.
Dobrofest (mid-Jun),
Trnava, West Slovakia.
A festival organized in
memory of Jan Dopjera,
who founded the guitar-
making firm, Dobro, in the
United States.
ArtFilm Festival (second half
of Jun), Trenianske Teplice,
West Slovakia. Week-long
event with competitions for
the best avant-garde and
experimental productions. Summer concert in the courtyard of the Old Town Hall, Bratislava
258 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A
60 2.4 Rainfall
June is one of the
40 1.6
warmest but also one
of the wettest months
in Slovakia. The best
20 0.8
time to visit the
country is late spring
0 0 or early autumn
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
when its warm with
less rain.
AUTUMN
Temperature
AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE Large variations in
C F altitude cause the
25 77 weather to vary
between individual
20 68
regions of Slovakia.
15 59 The average summer
10 50
temperature is about
20C (68F); at high
5 41 altitudes it does not
0 32 exceed 15C (59F).
Winters tend to be
-5 23 cold, with tempera-
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
tures often dropping
below freezing.
THE HISTORY OF
SLOVAKIA
F
rom the Middle Ages until the 20th century the fate of the
Slovak nation was bound up with the fortunes of the
Kingdom of Hungary. The national aspirations of the Slovak
people were realized only following the creation of the independent
Slovak Republic in 1993.
PREHISTORY were decisively beaten by
Archaeological discoveries point Charlemagne, at the head of
to the presence of man in the an alliance of Franks and
area of present-day Slovakia Moravians. This cleared the
during the Middle Paleolithic way for the establishment of
era (200,00035,000 BC). The two Slavic principalities, out of
Moravian Venus, a famous which grew the Great
Paleolithic statuette discovered Moravian Empire. By 885, this
near Pietany (West Slovakia) in included parts of present-day
1940, was made around 23,000 Slovakia, Germany and Poland,
years ago. From the 5th as well as the whole of
century BC the area was The Moravian Bohemia and Moravia.
Venus
colonized by the Celts who, From 863 two Greek
as in the Czech Lands, were monks, Cyril and Methodius
displaced in around 10 BC by the took on the task of Christianizing
Marcomanni, a German tribe. They, the people of the empire.
in turn, were attacked by the
Romans, but the Marcomanni were UNDER HUNGARIAN RULE
a troublesome enemy, and the The Moravian empire came to an
Romans eventually pulled back end in the 9th century, destroyed by
south of the River Danube. the invading Magyars. They took
control of the Danube Lowlands, in-
THE GREAT MORAVIAN EMPIRE cluding what is now Slovakia, which
During the 5th and 6th centuries the remained part of Hungary until 1918.
Slavs arrived in the Danube Low- From this moment the Czechs
lands, but they were later con- (under Frankish rule) and Slovaks
quered by the nomadic Avars. A were exposed to differing social,
Frankish merchant called Samo led cultural and political influences, a
a Slavic rebellion in 623 and direct result of which was the
managed to create a kingdom Velvet Divorce of 1993. Also, the
encompassing west Slovakia and Slavic unity under the Great
parts of Bohemia and Moravia. But Moravian Empire has, periodically,
it wasnt until 795 that the Avars fuelled dreams of Panslavism.
TIMELINE
1900700 BC A bronze vessel 863 The Greek monks, Cyril and
Bronze items from dating from Methodius, arrive in Moravia
this period have the 8th-7th
833 The foundation of the Great
been found in centuries BC
present-day Slovakia Moravian Empire
TIMELINE
1000 St Stephen crowned king of Hungary 134282 Reign of
117396 Bela III rules Louis the Great in
1025 Slovak lands become part of the Hungary Hungary
Kingdom of Hungary
Bratislava
Castle
Coronation of Leopold II
After his coronation ceremony on
15 November 1790, Leopold II knighted
33 noblemen in the Franciscan church.
The city
walls, which
the queen
entered via
Michaels
Gate.
Maria Theresa is
BRATISLAVA, 1741 carried in the Pressburg Peace
This painting shows the coronation state coach to
The Primates Palace was the
procession of Empress Maria St Martins
Cathedral for venue for the signing, on 26
Theresa on 25 June 1741. Modern December 1805, of the peace
the coronation
visitors to Bratislava can walk the ceremony. treaty between Napoleon and
coronation route through the city Franz II following the Battle of
(see p280). Austerlitz.
266 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A
WORLD WAR I
The lack of success in their
attempts to win autonomy
within the Hungarian state
drove Slovak politicians to
forge closer links with Czech
activists, led by Tom Ribbentrop and the Slovak prime minister signing a pact in 1940
TIMELINE
Stollwerck chocolate label 1938 Parliament
1867 Creation of
proclaims the
the Austro- 1896 German confectionery
Slovak Republic
Hungarian company, Stollwerck, opens
monarchy a factory in Bratislava
government, headed by
Jozef Tiso, became little
more than a Nazi puppet
state. Tiso banned oppo-
sition parties and deported
thousands of Jews. Slovakia
became the base of the
Nazis military industry and
also actively supported the
German army. Tisos regime
was popular since Slovakia
was, for the first time, able
to set up its own national Soviet tanks on the streets of Bratislava in 1968
institutions. But the support
was not universal, and in
August 1944 elements of the Slovak THE SLOVAK REPUBLIC
a r m y , a s s i s t e d b y C o m m u n i s t After the Velvet Revolution of 1989,
partisans, launched the Slovak when the Communist government
National Uprising. German troops was overthrown (see p47), Czecho-
quashed the revolt. slovakia was finally in the hands of
Reborn in 1945, the state of democrats. The country was not
Czechoslovakia initially continued the destined to remain a joint state,
pre-war democratic traditions of the however, and on 1 January 1993 the
First Republic. In 1948, however, it sovereign Slovak Republic was
fell under the total control of the proclaimed, headed by Michal Kov.
Communist Party (see p46). The era While democracy in the Slovak
of Stalinist repression that followed Republic has seemed extremely
affected both the democratic activists fragile at times, the position of the
and the staunch Communists, who new state within the international
were often accused like Gustv community was confirmed when, in
Husk of Slovak nationalism. 2004, Slovakia joined NATO and the
European Union.
THE PRAGUE SPRING
In January 1968 reformists in the
Communist Party reacted to the
authorities reluctance to adopt a
more liberal course by taking control
of the government. The democratic
reforms of the so-called Prague
Spring came to an abrupt end, how-
ever, on 21 August with an invasion
by Warsaw Pact troops. The orthodox
Communists returned to power and
during the normalization process that
followed, totalitarian rule was re-
established and all dissent suppressed. President of Slovakia, Ivan Gasparovi
Slovakia at a Glance
This small Central European country
displays a diverse topography. Although
there are lowlands in the west of Slovakia,
most of the territory is taken up by forest-
clad mountains. The Small Carpathian
mountains start just north of Bratislava.
Central Slovakia is dominated by the Tatras
range, which includes Slovakias highest
peak. In the east of the country is the Slovak
Karst, which has huge limestone caves.
The Slovak Agricultural Museum, Nitra, is
one of Slovakias most interesting, full of
historic implements for agriculture and
wine-making, as well as displays illustrating
folk and social history (see p304).
B RATISLAVA W EST
(pp272289) S LOVAKIA
(pp290305)
E AST
S LOVAKIA
(pp324339)
0 km 30
0 miles 30
B R AT I S L AVA
T
he capital of Slovakia lies very near the countrys south-
western border. It straddles the River Danube (Dunaj) at the
southern end of the Small Carpathian mountains. From here
it is a mere 2 km (1 mile) to the border with Austria, and only 10 km
(6 miles) to the border with Hungary. In clear weather both
neighbouring countries can be seen from Bratislava Castle.
Bratislava has been the capital when her beloved
of Slovakia since 1993, daughter Maria Kristina
when it became an lived here with her hus-
independent state. band. In the 19th century,
It has always been a it became the centre of the
centre of the countrys Slovak independence movement.
social and cultural life. It was known as The Grassalkovich Palace (now the
Pressburg to German-speakers and as presidential palace) is the setting for
Pozsny to Hungarian speakers. one of the great love stories of the
A Celtic settlement in the 2nd century 20th century. This is where the Austro-
BC, it later became the base of a Roman Hungarian crown prince Franz
garrison, and by the 10th century one Ferdinand dEste met his wife, ofia
of the main centres of the Great Mora- Chotek. In 1914, the murder of the
vian Empire. In 1291 it was granted couple in Sarajevo started World
town privileges by the Hungarian King War I. After the war and the creation
Andrew III and gradually strengthened of Czechoslovakia, the capital of the
its position within the Crown Lands of Slovak part of the country assumed
St Stephen. The city became particularly the name of Bratislava. In 193945, as
important after the capture of Buda by an ally of the Third Reich, Bratislava
the Turks in 1541, when it was the was spared destruction. Postwar
capital of Hungary for nearly 200 years. development, however, destroyed the
Pressburg reached the zenith of its historic centre. Today, the old town of
glory during the reign of Maria Theresa Bratislava has been lovingly restored.
Exploring Bratislava
The majority of historic sights in Bratislava can be 0 metres 200
found in the compact old town centre, on the left
bank of the Danube. The landmark castle is on a hill 0 yards 200
K
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VISITORS CHECKLIST
3 , / 6 ! + ) ! Road map C4. * 430,000.
k tefanika, 9 km (6 miles)
NE. Hlavna stanica, Praska,
1 km (0.5 mile) N. Tel (02) 524
%&
959 06. @ Mlynske nivy. n
Klobuncka 2. Tel (02) 16186.
www.bratislava.sk
GETTING AROUND
Central Bratislava is best seen
.P
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and efficient network of buses,
VC
! 5 3 4 2 ) !
also run at intervals throughout
J
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KO
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NMESTIE offers a connection with Vienna.
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HODOVO DO
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276 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
A
Mirbach Palace NCK
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This Rococo palace, one of Bratislavas
finest architectural relics, now houses the
City Gallery 6
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. Franciscan Church
Bratislavas oldest
religious building, this
Gothic-style church was
erected in the 13th
century. Several times
remodelled, it acquired
its Baroque form in the
18th century 4
LOCATOR MAP
See city map, pp2745
. Primates Palace
One of the citys finest Neo-
Classical structures, this
palace was built in
The Jesuit
Church (see p278)
177881 by Melchior
was built in Hefele for the Archbishop
16368 by Jozef Batthyny 3
Protestants. Its
greatest treasure is
the Rococo pulpit
by Ludovit Gode.
ANTIKNSKA
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. Primates Palace
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Bratislava Castle 1
BRATISLAVSK HRAD
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
B R A T I S L AVA 279
Franciscan
Church 4
FRANTIKNSK KOSTOL
Frantiknske nmestie. #
10:30am5pm MonFri.
The Franciscan Church Buildings of the Academia Istropolitana, site of a 15th-century university
behind an inconspicuous
Baroque faade is the oldest the addition of a Baroque with stuccoes and a triangular
religious building in cupola, and the statue of pediment. The building was
Bratislava. Built in the 13th Archangel Michael was placed erected in 176870 by a rich
century, it was consecrated in at the top. The tower houses brewer, Martin Spech. Its
1297 in the presence of King the Museum of Weapons subsequent owner, Count
Andrew II. Subsequent and Town Fortifications Karol Nyary, ordered his
remodelling works (Mzeum zbran a family crest to be placed in
obliterated its original mestskho opevnienia). the tympanum. The last
Gothic form, but it is still The viewing terrace owner of the palace, Emil
possible to see the affords a stunning Mirbach, bequeathed the
medieval rib panorama of the city building to the town.
vaulting and beyond. The Now it is an art gallery,
above the small building next currently holding the main
presbytery. to the gate is collection of Bratislavas City
Particularly Bratislavas oldest Gallery (Galria mesta
impressive is the pharmacy At the Bratislavy). Exhibits include
two-tier 14th-century Red Lobster. examples of 17th- and 18th-
chapel of St John the century Baroque painting.
Evangelist. During Two of the first-floor halls
coronation pageants Mirbach have walls almost entirely
in Bratislava the Palace 6 covered with colourful 18th-
church was used MIRBACHOV PALC
century engravings set in
for knighting Statue from the wood panelling.
ceremonies, in Franciscan Church
Frantiknske nmestie
which the new
monarch appointed Knights 11. City Gallery Tel (02) 54 43 15 Academia
56. # 11am6pm TueSun.
of the Golden Spur.
www.gmb.sk
Istropolitana 7
The churchs furnishings,
mainly Baroque, date from The Rococo Mirbach Palace Ventrska 3. f
the 17th and 18th centuries; opposite the Franciscan
an older, 15th-century Piet in Church has a beautiful faade The oldest university in
a side altar is a highlight. present-day Slovakia, the
Academia Istropolitana was
founded by King Matthias
Michaels Gate 5 Corvinus in 1465. It occupied
two residential town houses
MICHALSK BRNA
belonging to tefan Gmaitel.
The university trained its
Michalsk ulica 24. Museum of students in three faculties.
Weapons and Town Fortifications Following the death of King
Tel (02) 54 43 30 44. # 10am5pm Matthias in 1490, the
TueSun; 11am6pm Sat, Sun. & university closed down.
www.muzeum.bratislava.sk This building, with its stone
Built in the first half of the entrance portal and oriel
14th century, Michaels Gate windows, is now a national
is the only surviving original cultural monument.
gateway to the medieval city, Modernized in the 1960s, it
and one of Bratislavas oldest houses the Bratislava Academy
buildings. In 17538 its of Music; check with tourist
Gothic tower was raised to Michaels Gate with its striking information offices for times
the present 51 m (167 ft), by Baroque cupola of occasional performances.
280 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
St Martins Cathedral 8
DM SV . MARTINA
Structure of
This Gothic edifice, with a wide nave the Cathedral
flanked by two aisles, was built on the site Due to vibra-
of an earlier, 14th-century Romanesque tions from
church. Between 1563 and 1830 eleven heavy traffic
Hungarian kings and eight queens were on the nearby
crowned here. It is possible to walk the major road to
former coronation route through the Old the New Bridge
Town, starting from here, by following a (see p283), the
series of golden crowns embedded in the cathedral is
pavement. In the late 19th century the being damaged.
church was rebuilt in Neo-Gothic style by It frequently
Jozef Lippert, and its interior was undergoes
refurbished along more purist lines. repair work.
Presbytery
After completing the hall the
builders realized that the
section by the altar was
too small. They added
a presbytery with a
splendid net
vault; the
coat of arms
on it is that
of Matthias
Corvinus.
. Sculpture of St Martin
This dramatic sculpture,
by Georg Raphael
Donner (1734), was
originally made for the
main altar. St
Martin is shown
in Hungarian
dress cutting his
cloak to share
with a beggar.
VISITORS CHECKLIST
The tower, 85 m Rudnayovo nmst 1. Tel (02) 544
(280 ft) tall, is 313 59. # AprOct: 911:30am,
topped with a 15pm MonSat, 1:3011pm Sun
slender cupola, (NovMar: times vary). 5 8am
and includes a & noon MonSat, 7:45am, 9am,
tiny copy of the 10:30am, noon, 5pm Sun. &
Hungarian crown,
a reminder that
this was once the Interior
venue of royal In the late 19th century the
coronations. Baroque furnishings were
replaced with new, Neo-
Gothic ones. The main altar
was removed and its angels
paying homage to St Martin
were transported to Budapest.
Stained-Glass
Windows
The windows in
the presbytery and
the aisles date from
the second half of
the 19th century;
they were mostly
produced by the
Viennese company
of K Geyling.
The Canons
Chapel and the
Chapel of the
Czech queen
Sophia are
adjacent to the
sacristy under
the tower.
STAR FEATURES
. Altar of St Annes
Chapel . Altar of St Annes Chapel
The central field of the
Main portal . Sculpture of ornate altarpiece in this
with Neo-Gothic St Martin chapel depicts the scene of
vestibule the Crucifixion.
282 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Reduta 0
Palackho 2. Tel (02) 20 47 52 33.
# 17pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri;
8am2pm Wed. www.filharm.sk
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
B R A T I S L AVA 283
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
B R A T I S L AVA 285
Devn Castle a
8 km (5 miles) W of the centre of
Bratislava. @ 28, 29. 4 from Central
Bratislava. Tel (02) 65 73 01 05.
# OctApr: 10am5pm TueSun
(MaySep: to 7pm Sat & Sun). &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
B R A T I S L AVA 287
Malacky z
Road map C4. * 17,770. @
n Radlinskeho 1. Tel (034) 772 20
55. www.malacky.sk
W E S T S L O VA K I A
F
or visitors arriving first in the Slovak capital, Bratislava, West
Slovakia becomes the gateway to the rest of the country. The
main topographic features of the region are the great plain of
the Danube river, the wide valley of the middle and lower Vh river
and the gentle slopes of the Small Carpathian mountains stretching
from the Vh valley to the outskirts of Bratislava.
The wester n section of Visitors are drawn
Slovakia differs signi- in their thousands to
ficantly from the rest Pietany, famous for
of the country in that its spa centres, located
it is the most highly on an island on the Vh
developed and most river. Trenianske Teplice is another
industrialized region. West Slovakia historic spa. Nearby Trenn boasts a
has few forests; the landscape history going back to the days of the
consists mainly of flat, open plains, Roman Empire. To this day there are
with rich, fertile soils. Its only the traces of a fortified camp of the
mountain range, the Small Car- Roman legions, Laugaricio.
pathians, is a low, undramatic chain. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the
The most interesting historic sights southern part of the region was the
in West Slovakia are its old towns, scene of conflict due to the Ottoman
Trnava and Nitra. The former, once Empires expansion into the
referred to as the Slovak Rome, Kingdom of Hungary. During that
owes this nickname to the impres- time, a key role was played by the
sive number of churches built within splendid Renaissance fortress, Nov
a small area of the historic town Zmky; its loss in 1663 and
centre. Nitra was, in the early 9th subsequent recovery from Turkish
century, the seat of the Slav ruler, hands after 22 years was an
Prince Pribina, the founder of the first important chapter in the history of
Christian church in Slovak territory. Christian-Ottoman conflict in Europe.
DOBROVODSK
CASTLE PIETANY
Mal D
un
International border a i
ub
e(
Regional border D
un
Horn Pot
a j)
Summit amorn
DUNAJSK STREDA
Baka Doln tl
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Beckov Castle e Nitra u
Brezov pod Bradlom 5 Nov Zmky p
achtice Castle w Pietany 0
Velk Meder
Dobrovodsk Castle 6 Plaveck Castle 1
Doln Krup 7 Senica 3 Medvedv
Dunajsk Streda 9 Smolenice Castle 2
Gjor
Galanta i Topoliansky Castle q
Hol 4 Tovrniky Castle y
Komrno a Trenianske Teplice t 0 kilometres 20
Levice Castle s Trenn r
Mojmrovce Palace o Trnava pp2969 8 0 miles 10
Zln
ilina
h
V
TRENIANSKE
TEPLICE
TRENN
TRENIANSKY
KRAJ
BECKOV
CASTLE Prievidza
Bnovce nad
Bebravou
Beckov Castle on its rocky outcrop
TOPOLIANSKY
CASTLE
GETTING AROUND
TOVRNIKY The predominantly lowland character of West
CASTLE Slovakia means that its transport network is fairly
Radoina Topolany well developed. Good bases for exploring the
region are Bratislava and Trnava, which have
numerous transport links radiating outwards. The
main highway is the D1 motorway, which runs
Preselny southwest to northeast. Trains are also fast and
Doln efficient along this northeast route via Trnava and
Trhovite
Vapy Zvolen Trenin. Buses are a better choice towards Nitra
Opatovce
and Levice, and a good bus network connects the
Luianky regions smaller towns and villages.
Koliary
NITRA
Cabaj-
por Ivanka
LEVICE CASTLE
MOJMROVCE Kalnica
PALACE
Sala
Hr
Komjatce on
Tekovsk
Luany Demandice
arovce
urany NITRIANSKY
KRAJ eliezovce
Kolta
Pastovce
NOV ZMKY Dvory Pohronsk
nad itavou Ruskov
Kolrovo Pribeta
Hurbanovo Kamenny Salka
Most
Vh
Gbelce
Svt Peter
Zemianska Mula trovo
Ola
KOMRNO
Budapest
D a nu b e ( D u n a j )
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
W E S T S L O VA K I A 295
Trnava 8
HO
Cathedral of St Nicholas 2 Cathedral of
BO
DSK
the Virgin Mary 3 ALI
INV
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FN
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SK
A
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avk
Church of
RSK
K
E LE C
A
STR
Key to Symbols see back flap
Pilasters
decorate
the faade
Main Portal
The Latin inscription above the
entrance mentions Count Mikls
Esterhzy, the churchs founder.
Main entrance
Ornate Door
Above the richly carved
wooden door leading to the
sacristy is an ornate metal
grille with gilded elements.
. Vaulted
Ceiling
The paintings on
the arched vaulting STAR FEATURES
of the presbytery . The High Altar
ceiling depict scenes
from the life of St . Vaulted Ceiling
John the Baptist.
300 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Road map D4. 45 km (28 miles) SE who in 1822 built the first spa.
of Bratislava. * 10,000. @ The town became a popular achtice Castle w
n Hlavn 50. Tel (031) 590 39 42. resort visited by Beethoven
# 9am5pm MonFri. and Mucha, among others. Road map D3. 15 km (9 miles) S
The spa is located on the of Beckov. @ to achtice.
The town lies on itn ostrov, edge of the park, on
an island cut off from the the right bank of the The conspicuous
main flow of the Danube by Vh river, and on the remnants of achtice
the Little Danube (Mal spa island. Near the Castle stand on a
Dunaj). Archaeological park is a pavilion, rocky hill (375 m/
discoveries here provide built in 1894 and now 1,230 ft) between the
evidence of settlements in this housing a concert hall towns of achtice and
area since the early Bronze Age and the Spa Museum Viov, offering a
and confirm the importance (Balneologick magnificent view of
of the island under the Great mzeum). The Col- the surrounding area
Moravian Empire (see p261). umned Bridge to the the Small Carpathians
The earliest written records of island is a fine and the Myjava
the town date from the 12th example of 1930s Tower of Plateau. This
century. Materials relating to Functionalist Topoliansk Castle fortified stronghold,
the islands colonization can architecture. whose construction
be seen in the Regional was started in the first half of
Museum (itnoostrovn E Spa Museum the 13th century, was part of
mzeum) in lt katel, a Beethovenova 5. Tel (033) 772 28 the defence system that
75. # TueSun.
pleasant Neo-Classical building guarded the western border
www.balneomuzeum.sk
erected in the 18th century. of the Hungarian Kingdom.
The greatest attraction, how- Over the following centuries
ever, is now the town centre, the most famous person
which in 19959 Imre Makovec Topoliansky associated with achtice was
returned to its former ambience Castle q the Blood Countess
by building a series of unusual Elizabeth Bthory, wife of the
white buildings with tiled roofs, Road map D3. 56 km (35 miles) NE district chief and Hungarian
decorated with arches, towers of Trnava. @ to Podhradie. army captain, Ferenc
and wooden ornaments. Ndasdy. In 15851610 she
On a high rocky ledge above ordered over 600 young girls
E Regional Museum
the village of Podhradie are to be murdered in the castle,
Mzejn 2. Tel (031) 552 24 02.
the scenic ruins of allegedly to obtain their blood,
# TueSat. & www.muzeum.sk
Pietany 0
Road map D3. 40 km (25 miles) S of
Trenn. * 30,000. @ W of
town centre. n Nlepkova 2.
Tel (033) 774 33 55. # 9am5pm
MonFri. www.spapiestany.com
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
W E S T S L O VA K I A 301
Beckov Castle e
Road map D3. 20 km (12 miles) SW
of Trenin. @ # MayOct:
9am6pm Tue-Sun.
Tovrniky Castle y
Road map D3. 6 km (4 miles) NW of
Topolany. @ to Topolany to
the public.
C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A
M
any people regard the central region of Slovakia as the true
heart of the country, not only geographically, but also in a
spiritual sense. There is no doubt that the region played a
crucial part in building Slovak national identity, and particularly
in the eyes of foreigners presents the most stereotypical image of
Slovakia as the land of mountains, castles and caves.
There are many reasons why by countless artists,
Central Slovakia is throughout the year
regarded as the region they attract visitors for
that made the greatest rock-climbing, hiking
contributions to the and skiing. It is worth
countrys history. It was combining a visit to the Tatras with a
here, in 1861, that the plan for trip to the neighbouring Pieniny
national rebirth was unveiled; here beautiful small-scale mountains on
the Slovak language was codified for the border with Poland, which are
the first time; and here the Slovak famous for the scenic Dunajec canyon.
National Uprising against the Nazis The urban heart of Central Slovakia
broke out in 1944. In the local is Bansk Bystrica, a town filled with
mountains the most famous Slovak magnificent historic sights, many of
outlaw, the brave Jnok, robbed them bearing witness to the past
the rich and helped the poor. This is history of the region, which grew
also the only land mentioned in the rich on the mining of gold, silver and
Slovak national anthem, Thunder other precious metals. Other man-
above the Tatras. made attractions in Central Slovakia
Situated in the northern part of the include numerous architectural
region, the Tatras are the highest and sights, such as the fairy-tale castle in
most formidable mountains in Bojnice; Oravsk Castle, perched on
Slovakia. Shrouded in legends, a craggy cliff; and the timber houses
photographed, painted and described in imany and other villages.
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C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 309
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312 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
. Altar of St Barbara
The ornate Gothic altar-
piece of St Barbara
(patron saint of
miners), in the north
View of the Church side chapel, is the
The churchs tower grey with red churchs greatest
decorations is a town landmark. The treasure. Made by
simple arches of the tower windows Master Pavol of
indicate their Romanesque origin. Levoa, it depicts
the Madonna and
Child, St Barbara
and St Jerome.
Interior
The most striking features of the
beautiful interior are the pulpit and
the organ loft. The bronze font, by
Master Jodok, is a masterpiece of
medieval metalwork.
Main Altarpiece
Paintings in the
main altarpiece
(1774) are by Jan
Lukas Kracker.
They portray the
Assumption of the
Virgin Mary and
the Holy Trinity.
. Side Altar
The south chapel,
to the right of the
nave, contains
a 15th-century
Gothic triptych
of St Mary
Magdalene, one
of the most
treasured items
of the churchs
original
furnishings.
Porch
The new main STAR FEATURES
entrance in the porch, . Altar of St Barbara
with a stellar vault and
an attractive portal, was . Side Altar
added in 14731516.
314 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
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famous for the ruins Minor road
of its 14th-century
Other road
castle, later extended
into a Renaissance River
palace and now National border
housing an Ethno-
Viewpoint
graphy Museum.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 317
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Star Smokovec
This attractive spa complex has
several hotels, pensions and
restaurants that blend well with
their woodland surroundings.
Gerlachovsk tt
The Tatras highest peak, Gerlachovsk
tt (2,654 m/8,707 ft), can be climbed Wooden rafts navigating the
only with a professional guide. Dunajec Gorge
Bojnice Castle 9
Plffys Tomb
From the castle crypt,
containing the
magnificent marble Chapel
tomb of Jn Plffy, a The chapel with its magnifi-
passage leads to a cent stuccoed and painted
cave inside vault was built in the
the hill. 17th century, in a
former bastion.
. Golden Hall
The magnificent vault, made
of pine and covered with gold
leaf, was modelled on the
interior of the Venetian
Academy of Fine Arts.
Music Room
The present Music Room was
once Jn Plffys bedroom. The The castle courtyards
piano pictured was made in are used in the
Vienna in 1884. summer as venues for
tournaments and
falconry shows.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 321
Central Castle
The rooms of the central
castle are furnished in
Gothic style. The top floor
features the Knights Hall.
Neo-Gothic
gallery
Entrance
tower and
gate
. Bojnice Altarpiece
STAR FEATURES The altarpiece painted by Nardo di Cione the
. Bojnice Altarpiece only complete surviving work by the artist is
the most important piece from Jn Plffys
. Golden Hall collection. It was painted in the mid-14th
century, using tempera paint on a wooden panel.
322 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
imany w
Road map D3. 40 km (25 miles) S of
ilina. * 200. @ from ilina.
biggest furniture manufac- a museum with a collection of the rich mining towns of
turers. After World War II the the palaces historic furniture Central Slovakia. It was at that
nationalized property was and paintings. The English- time converted into a fortified
badly damaged. Reconstruction style park with a hunting stronghold, by strengthening its
works, which started in the lodge and world-famous stud outside walls, blocking up the
1990s, have ceased and now deserves a separate visit. vast Gothic windows and
the interiors provide only a erecting bastions.
vague indication of the Environs
palaces former glory. The About 10 km (6 miles) to the
park, although neglected, south is the Mlyany Luenec y
remains impressive. Arboretum, established in 1892
by tefan Ambrzy-Migazzi, a Road map E4. 80 km (50 miles) SE of
Hungarian fascinated by Bansk Bystrica. * 30,000. @ n
botany and dendrology. Masarykova 14. Tel (047) 433 15 13.
Today this is Slovakias richest
collection of coniferous trees. One of the centres of
The site, an area of 67 ha (165 Slovakias Hungarian national
acres), features nearly 2,400 minority, Luenec has been
different species, representing known since the 13th century
all regions of the world. under a variety of names,
Particularly interesting are the including Lucheneh, Luenia
specimens brought back by and Losonc. In 1919 it found
scientific expeditions to China itself within the borders of
and Korea, planted on a 20-ha Czechoslovakia, and during
(50-acre) site devoted to Far 193845 belonged briefly to
Eastern flora; also worth Hungary. In its fairly small
exploring is the exotic market square, Kubnyiho
collection of North nmestie, is the former
The south wing of Topolianky American plants. Neo-Gothic Calvinist
Palace, now a museum church of 1853, with
Y Mlyany an unusual ceramic-
Topolianky Arboretum tiled roof and a
Veska nad itavou tower crowned with
Palace r 178. Tel (037) 633 42 a gilded cockerel.
11. # daily. & 8
Inside is the
Road map D4. 30 km (19 miles) N Novohradsk
of Levice. Museum Tel (037) 777
Museum, its col-
75 55. # MayAug: 9am3pm Tue Hronsk Sculpture at Hronsk lection illustrating
Fri, noon4pm Sat, Sun; SepApr:
10am3pm TueFri, noon4pm Sat,
Beadik Beadik Abbey the regions culture,
including glass, fur-
Sun. & 8 0 - Abbey t niture and musical instruments.
www.zamok-topolcianky.sk
In Filakovska, south of the
Road map D4. 20 km (12 miles) N
One of Slovakias most market square, stands an
of Levice. @ Tel (045) 689 31
beautiful historic buildings, the enormous Art Nouveau
98. # Jul, Aug: 9:30am5:30pm
Topolianky Palace was built synagogue dating from 1926,
MonFri; SepJun: by appt. 8 (903)
in the 15th century on the site one of the largest in Europe,
938 393. www.benadik-klastor.sk
of an older building. Over the which has now deteriorated.
following centuries the The Benedictine abbey in
E Novohradsk Museum
original Gothic palace Hronsk Beadik was
Kubnyho Nmestie 3. Tel (047) 433
changed hands several times, mentioned by historic sources
25 02. # Tue-Fri, Sun. www.nmg.sk
becoming the property of the as early as 1075. In the late
Hungarian families of Rakoczy, 14th century its Romanesque
Erddy and Zichy, who during buildings were rebuilt in the
the Renaissance period turned Gothic style. The triple-naved
it into a four-wing residence church with an impressive
surrounding an arcaded court- portal and a beautiful vault is
yard. The Neo-Classical south from that period. The most
wing with its splendid portico interesting features of the
was added in the 18th century. interior include the Gothic wall
In 1890 the palace became painting depicting the legend of
one of the Habsburgs resi- St George; and St Scholasticas
dences, and during 192351 altar with 15th-century carved
was used as the summer figures of the Virgin Mary and
residence of the presidents St Benedict. In the 16th
of Czechoslovakia. century, during the period of
Now the Renaissance part is growing Turkish threat, the
being used as a hotel, while monastery assumed military The former Art Nouveau
the Neo-Classical wing houses significance, guarding access to synagogue in Luenec
S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 325
E A S T S L O VA K I A
M
any regard East Slovakia as the most fascinating part of the
country. The regions cultural riches, particularly evident
in the large number of towns that have maintained or
restored their medieval character, go hand in hand with the beauty of
its natural environment: the astonishing karst scenery and the
mountainous areas barely touched by civilization.
Situated in the western part the nearby Slovensk
of East Slovakia, rj (Slovak Paradise).
southeast of the Tatras Some of the dripstone
Mountains, is the Spi formations (stalagmites
region (known as Zips and stalactites) that occur
in German, and Szepes here are unequalled anywhere else in
in Hungarian), a historic land rich in Europe. Both areas attract hikers.
examples of Late-Gothic art that bear Koice, in the central part of the
witness to the centuries-long region, is Slovakias second-largest
intermingling of the Slovak, city, boasting the magnificent
Hungarian, German, Polish, Cathedral of St Elizabeth and the
Ruthenian (Rusyn) and Jewish carefully restored old town. The
cultures. The places listed on the historic town centre of nearby Preov
UNESCO World Cultural Heritage is also well preserved.
roster Levoa, Spi Castle and the The eastern part of the region,
charming village of ehra attract along the border with Poland, is
the greatest numbers of visitors, but sparsely populated and offers remote
interesting historic sites can be found and tranquil wilderness and pretty
in almost every village. wooden churches. Bardejov has a
The area to the south of Spi offers fine medieval centre, while Svidnk
not only hilly, wooded scenery but has an open-air exhibition of
also a fascinating subterranean traditional wooden folk architecture.
world. The vast cave systems are a The remote, unspoilt Vihorlat
world-class attraction of the mountains to the south provide
Slovensk kras (Slovak Karst) and of superb hiking opportunities.
Richly decorated walls of the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, Medzilaborce
326 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
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GETTING AROUND
Koice the main town of the region has an airport
with domestic flights to Bratislava, and several
international flights. Koice is also the major hub of
bus transport. The main road running through East
Slovakia is the 18 (international E50) leading from
ilina in Central Slovakia through Preov, to Koice.
East Slovakia is also crossed by the main Slovak
railway line, which runs from Bratislava via ilina to
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SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3645
Krsna Hrka Castle in the
Where to Eat pp3945
Slovensk kras
328 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
P Urban Tower
The Plague Column and beautiful houses in Hlavn Hlavn.
The Urban Tower (Urbanova
Exploring the town souls of the dead. In the early vea) stands to the north of
The most interesting sights in 20th century 17 old tomb- St Elizabeths Cathedral. Built
Koice are clustered within its stones from the in the 14th century, it
large historic centre. The main cemetery were built was remodelled in
street, Hlavn, whose spindle into the chapel walls. Renaissance style in
shape is typical of the eastern Highlights include 1628. St Urbans
regions towns, runs north the altarpiece bell was cast in
south, with the main squares, depicting St 1557 and installed
Hlavn nmestie and Nmestie Michael the inside the tower.
slobody, and the cathedral in Archangel; the Dedicating it to St
the centre (see also pp33031). lovely stone Urban was inten-
tabernacle; and, ded to honour the
P Hlavn above the sacristy patron saint of vini-
This lovely avenue, full of door, the oldest culture: wine pro-
shops and cafs, makes for an coat of arms Detail from St duction has always
enjoyable evening stroll. The of Koice. Elizabeths Cathedral been a source of
most striking of its buildings Koices wealth.
are the Gothic Levoa House P St Elizabeths Cathedral
(Levosk dom) and the old Hlavn 28. Tel (091) 869 05 46. P Singing Fountain
town hall, its faade # daily. www.dom-rimkat.sk 8 Hlavn nmestie.
decorated with sculptures of Dominating the main square, In the square between the
ancient heroes by Anton Kraus. cathedral and the
The Plague Column (17223) theatre is the Singing
is Koices most beautiful Fountain (Spievajca
piece of Baroque sculpture. fontna), which spouts
water to recorded
R St Michaels Chapel music. At night, the
Hlavn 26. pearly jets are lit up by
The chapel (sv. Michal) was coloured lights that
built in the 14th century, on change with the
the site of a cemetery south rhythm of the music.
of St Elizabeths Cathedral. The fountain is at the
The lower section of the centre of a narrow
building served as an ossuary. water channel that
The upper section was used runs the length of
for celebrating masses for the Singing Fountain in Hlavn namestie the square.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
K O I C E 329
NMESTIE
T
Jesuit Church 7
VN
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ZBROJ N
St Elizabeths Cathedral 3
IK
KO
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St Michaels Chapel 2
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Singing Fountain 5
SKA
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Jesuit Church
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State Theatre
A
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Key to Symbols see back flap VA
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330 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Urban Bell
The 5-tonne (some
say 7-tonne) bell was
removed from the
tower and
placed in the IN
A
square in the T
BE
1960s. L
A
0 metres 20
. St Elizabeths
Cathedral
The resplendent Gothic
main altarpiece
(14747), with 48
panel pictures in its side-
wings, depicts various
scenes. Some parts
include sculpture and
illustrate the life of St
Elizabeth, a Hungarian
princess and patron
saint of the town
and the church. Hlavn 39
Built for the Smidegh family in
1593, this house is one of many
magnificent buildings on Hlavn.
. St Michaels
Chapel
The Archangel
SK Michael is the patron
N
LY saint of the 14th-
M century chapel in the
cemetery by St
Elizabeths
Cathedral. He is
depicted in a
doorway relief
weighing the souls
of the dead.
NMESTIE
SLOBODY
Hlavn 26
This 19012 Art
Nouveau house
is one of several
notable Art Nouveau
faades in the street.
STAR SIGHTS
. St Elizabeths
Cathedral
. St Michaels Chapel
332 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Medzilaborce 4
Road map F3. 43 km (27 miles) E of
Svidnk. * 6,000. @
Rakoczy Palace (Regional Museum) in Preov
This small town, close to the
Preov 2 by Josef Hartmann. In front of border with Poland, owes its
the church is a Baroque Plague fame to the American painter
Road map F3. 38 km (24 miles) N of Column and the 19th-century Andy Warhol, leading creator
Koice. * 91,000. @ Neptunes Fountain. Opposite of pop art. His parents,
n Hlavn 67. Tel (051) 773 11 13. is the late 16th-century Renais- Ruthenian immigrants, came
www.micpresov.sk sance Rakoczy Palace, now a from the neighbouring village
Regional Museum (arisk of Mikov. The Warhol
Slovakias third-largest town is mzeum). The suburb of Family Museum of Modern
first heard of in 1247. It was a Solivar features an interesting Art (Mzeum modernho
thriving centre of salt mining complex of historic buildings umenia) in Medzilaborce is in
from the 13th century, and associated with salt mining. a chunky concrete building.
mining ceased only in the On display are 18 of Warhols
19th century. During the 16th E Regional Museum original screen prints, including
Hlavn 85. Tel (051) 773 47 08.
and 17th centuries it became his iconic paintings of
# TueFri, Sun. & 8 -
a Reformation stronghold. Campbells soup cans, the blue
www.muzeumpresov.sk
One of the major events in cat and Ingrid Bergman as a
the towns history was the nun. There are also mementos
1687 Preov massacre, when Vihorlat 3 associated with his family.
24 Protestants were publicly The town was severely
executed on the town square Road map F3. E of Koice. @ damaged during the two
for allegedly supporting an World Wars, but its attractive
anti-Habsburg insurrection. A small range of volcanic 18th-century Greek Orthodox
Dominating the towns mountains, Vihorlat runs near Church of the Holy Spirit (sv.
historic district is the 1347 the border with Ukraine. This Ducha) has survived.
Gothic Church of St Nicholas is one of the quietest, least
(sv. Mikul), on the main populated corners of E Warhol Family Museum
street, Hlavn. It has magnifi- Slovakia. The local attractions of Modern Art
A Warhola 749/26. Tel (057) 748
cent Gothic paintings and include the lovely reservoir, 00 72. # TueSun. & 8
Baroque furnishings, particu- Zamplinsk irava (Slovak
larly its 17th-century high altar Sea), surrounded by camp
with figures of saints carved sites. In the Vihorlat Nature
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
E A S T S L O VA K I A 333
. Council Chamber
In 1998 presidents of 11 European countries met for
a summit here: Slovakia, Poland, Germany,
Czech Republic, Hungary, Austria, Romania,
Bulgaria, Slovenia, Italy and Ukraine.
. Wall Paintings
The authentic Renaissance
paintings on the south
The Neo-Classical elevation of the building
pediments date from depict the civic virtues of
the 19th century. restraint, courage,
justice and patience.
STAR SIGHTS
. Arcades
Coat of Arms
. Council Chamber
The towns coat of arms can be found above the
central arch of the ground-floor arcades, on the west . Wall Paintings
side of the building.
336 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
0OPRAD
Krsna Hrka 3
One of Slovakias finest castles, this
is full of gorgeous furnishings.
Nearby is the Art Nouveau
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magnificent library.
OLTOVO $LH6ES
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Jaskya Domica 1
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beautiful cave in Slovakia,
Tour route
Jaskya Domica is also the
Other roads 0 kilometres 18 longest. There is a boat ride
along 140 m (460 ft) of the
Viewpoint
0 miles 9 underground river.
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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
338 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Spi Castle q
Vast Fortress
Occupying an area of 4 ha (10 acres),
Spi Castle is the remains of the
largest fortress complex in Central
Europe. In the 17th century it
had 2,000 inhabitants.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
E A S T S L O VA K I A 339
Environs
ehra, a village 6 km (4 miles)
southeast of Spiska Kapitula,
features a 13th-century Roman-
esque Church of the Holy Spirit
(sv. Duch), a white building
with a tower and a bell, topped
with onion-shaped wooden
cupolas. Inside the church are
magnificent 13th15th-century
frescoes covering the presby-
tery and one wall of the nave,
and a 13th-century stone font.
. Museum
Housed in the renovated
armoury and torture chamber,
the museum documents
the history of the castle in
the Middle Ages.
. Castle Chapel
Six wooden statues of saints adorn the
interior of the 15th-century Gothic
chapel of the Zpolya family. In
2003 the chapel underwent a Church of the Holy Spirit in ehra
complete renovation. from the south side
TRAVELLERS
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
T he Czech and Slovak Republics
have a well-developed network
of pleasant hotels, pensions
and guesthouses, as well as rooms
to let in private homes. Finding a
accommodation, although there are
a few budget hotels in the centre,
and some small pensions on the
outskirts. The chart of places to
stay on the following pages lists
bed for the night, even in a small the most attractive establishments
town or a village, should never be a in all price categories, including
problem, although some places may options such as youth hostels and
be closed in the low season (usually mountain shelters. The listings for
October to April). In large the Czech Republic are on
cities, particularly Prague, it Doorman at Pragues p a g e s 3 4 4 5 7 ; t h o s e f o r
may be hard to find inexpensive Palace Hotel Slovakia are on 35865.
TRAVELLING WITH
CHILDREN
Loretnsk 11, Praha 1. Tel 220 511 369. Fax 220 511 502. Rooms 8 Map 1 C3.
This boutique hotel could hardly be nearer to the castle, the Loreto and Strahov Monastery. The rooms are huge and
tastefully furnished. In summer the delicious breakfasts are served on the terrace with views over the Mal Strana
(little quarter). www.hidden-places.com
Hybernsk 12, Prague. Tel 257 011 500. Fax 257 534 392. Rooms 21 Map 2 F3.
Situated in the heart of historic Mal Strana, this renovated Baroque hotel offers spectacular views over Pragues
little Venice. Both single and double rooms are available. Ask for a top-floor room for views of the castle. Parking
is some distance from the hotel. www.certovka.cz
Nosticova 2, Praha 1. Tel 257 311 319. Fax 257 320 888. Rooms 9 Map 2 E4.
A pretty and well-kept pension, this was the birthplace of Baroque architect Kilian Ignaz Dietzenhofer. It is in a quiet
street only three minutes walk from Charles Bridge. Rooms are comfortable and all have en suite bathrooms, satel-
lite TV and minibar. There is a small terrace for guests. Excellent wheelchair access. www.dientzenhofer.cz
U Brny /h0ez7 |
Nerudova 21, Praha 1. Tel 257 212 029. Fax 257 212 758. Rooms 10 Map 2 D3.
This is one of the best addresses in Prague. A popular place, U Brny is always full during high season, so book well
in advance. The rooms, basically two-, three- and four-room suites, are elegantly furnished, and the bathrooms are
just fantastic. www.hotel-ubrany.cz
Waldstein /h07 |
Valdtejnsk nmsti 6, Praha 1. Tel 257 533 938. Fax 257 531 143. Rooms 34 Map 2 E3.
Rooms of this elegant historic hotel in the centre of Mal Strana are furnished with antique pieces, but also provide
Internet access, satellite TV and a kitchenette. Some have mosaics on the ceilings. Breakfasts, served in the original
vaulted cellar, are delicious. www.hotelwaldstein.cz
Draickho nmsti 6, Praha 1. Tel 257 532 320. Fax 257 531 840. Rooms 45 Map 2 F3.
Fully restored in 1990, the hotel occupies two buildings: one is the former residence of Pragues bishop, and the
other that of an 18th-century butcher. All rooms are comfortable and tastefully furnished. Those on the upper floor
feature exceptionally high ceilings with wooden beams, and delightful nooks. www.starshotelsprague.com
Nerudova 41, Praha 1. Tel 257 533 832. Fax 257 535 131. Rooms 6 Map 2 E3.
With its lovely views over the Royal Route, the castle and peaceful Petin hill, this former burghers house is superbly
located. Its rich interiors include painted Renaissance ceilings, the original period furniture and parquet floors. It also
has a traditional restaurant and wine room. www.hotelredlion.com
Hoffmeister /h0ez ||
Pod Bruskou 7, Praha 1. Tel 251 017 111. Fax 251 017 120. Rooms 37 Map 2 F2.
A high-class hotel, close to Prague Castle, the Hoffmeister has a spa and fitness club. Its large rooms are
flamboyantly furnished and include colourful fabrics; they offer magnificent views over the Vltava. Located halfway
up the hill leading to Chodkov. www.hoffmeister.cz
Sax /0z ||
Jnsk vrek 3, Praha 1. Tel 257 531 268. Fax 257 534 101. Rooms 22 Map 2 D3.
Situated close to Prague Castle, this Neo-Classical hotel is ideal for those who wish to be the first to arrive in the
morning in Hradany. The rooms are decorated in outrageous but very cool designs from the 1950s to 1970s, with
windows facing the spectacular glass-roofed inner atrium. www.sax.cz
Keplerova 6, Praha 1. Tel 224 302 430. Fax 224 302 128. Rooms 61 Map 1 B3.
A deluxe, modern hotel occupying a splendid, elegant building with an Art Nouveau faade. It prides itself on its
service, and its amenities include a library and a fitness centre. The large, luxurious suites and rooms have perhaps
the biggest bathrooms in Prague. Sometimes attracts celebrity guests. www.savoyhotel.cz
Trit 9, Praha 1. Tel 225 334 111. Fax 225 334 666. Rooms 52 Map 2 E3.
In this charming, unusual hotel, the rooms are not very large and each of them is furnished in a style inspired by a
different musical legend, such as Dizzy Gillespie, Puccini or Mozart. The hotel offers live music in its Winter Garden
as well as a music library and a music salon with a real fire. www.ariahotel.net
Vehrdova 16, Praha 1. Tel 271 090 847. Fax 257 404 333. Rooms 84 Map 2 E5.
Housed in a 17th-century armoury, minutes away from the Charles Bridge, the hotel is tucked away in a quiet side
street surrounded by beautiful gardens. The reception area leads into a bar and restaurant combined under lovely
Baroque vaulted ceilings. Rooms are simply furnished, but clean. www.euroagentur.cz
Betislavova 309, Praha 1. Tel 234 091 818. Fax 234 091 860. Rooms 31 Map 2 D3.
Located in a quiet medieval street, below the castle. Newly refurbished, it combines old and modern styles in its airy
interiors. The large rooms have huge beds and wooden floors. The charming hotel restaurant is a splendid place for
dining with friends. www.hotelconstans.cz
U Zlat Studn 166, Praha 1. Tel 257 011 213. Fax 257 533 320. Rooms 19 Map 2 E2.
A luxury hotel on four floors housed in a venerable old building. The view of the town, from the restaurant and the
terrace, is simply stunning. The rooms are nicely furnished and bathrooms are very comfortable, which is a rarity in
this part of town. www.goldenwell.cz
Hybernsk 6, 110 00 Praha 1. Tel 224 192 559. Fax 224 220 681. Rooms 88 Map 4 D3.
This international chain hotel has a congenial, cosy old-world atmosphere. Despite having been modernized it still
maintains its original character. Rooms are rather small. A pleasant restaurant is situated in the atmospheric wine
cellar. www.hotel-meteor.cz
Betlmsk nmsti 9, Praha 1. Tel 222 221 574. Fax 222 220 580. Rooms 21 Map 3 B4.
Close to the Old Town Square, the hotel is housed in a beautiful medieval, pastel-green building standing in a quiet
square. Rooms are small and plainly furnished, but all have bathrooms. Many times rebuilt, the house has a
fascinating history and retains its original cellar. www.betlemclub.cz
Konviktsk 14, Praha 1. Tel 224 211 020. Fax 224 210 800. Rooms 75 Map 3 B5.
This modern hotel, five minutes from the Charles Bridge, offers large, comfortably furnished rooms with pleasant
bathrooms. Tasty breakfasts are served in a spacious dining room. Tea and coffee are freely available all day, and
there is free Internet access for guests in the lobby. www.cloister-inn.com
Klimentzka 30, Praha 1. Tel 222 314 350. Fax 222 312 708. Rooms 76 Map 3 B2.
This lovely hotel stands in a peaceful street, close to the river. Tastefully furnished rooms, large and small, all have
fair-sized bathrooms. Designed in a functional style that complements the buildings historical ambience, the Lobby
Bar offers a wide range of drinks including traditional Czech beers and wines. www.hotelclement.cz
U Klenotnka /0z |
Rytisk 3, Praha 1. Tel 224 211 699. Fax 224 221 025. Rooms 11 Map 3 B4.
A small but beautiful hotel and restaurant, halfway between Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. The rooms are
of a reasonable size and competitively priced. It also has a small bucket-lift for luggage. The hotel restaurant serves
excellent breakfasts. www.uklenotnika.cz
Metamorphis /h0:ez ||
Mal tupartsk 5, Praha 1. Tel 221 771 011. Fax 221 771 099. Rooms 32 Map 3 C3.
Located at the centre of the Star Msto, in the Tn courtyard, Metamorphis is in a venerable old house. It offers
large rooms with pleasant bathrooms; some have antique furniture. The hotel restaurant makes its own delicious
pizzas. www.hotelmetamorphis.cz
28 ijna 11, Praha 1. Tel 224 239 598. Fax 224 237 694. Rooms 32 Map 3 C4.
Understated elegance and modern comfort are the hallmarks of this pleasant hotel, situated in the centre of Prague.
There are spacious rooms and bathrooms, beautiful reception areas and exquisite service. The hotel wellness centre
offers fitness facilities, massage and sauna open 24 hours per day. www.hotelliberty.cz
Celetn 7, Praha 1. Tel 221 776 600. Fax 221 776 603. Rooms 30 Map 3 C3.
A classic Prague hotel, situated right at the centre of the Star Msto. Imaginatively furnished rooms, some split-level,
all have four-poster beds. The reception area is boldly Art Deco in style. Extensive breakfasts are served in the library
with a view over the Church of Our Lady before Tn. www.ventana-hotel.net
Staromstsk nmsti 25, Praha 1. Tel 606 600 583. Fax 221 632 558. Rooms 31 Map 3 C3.
Due to its excellent location with a lovely view over the Old Town Square, the hotel fills up quickly, so book well in
advance. Large rooms and suites have simple classic furnishings, but meet modern requirements. Breakfasts are
served in the historic restaurant, U Orloje. www.grandhotelpraha.cz
Staromstsk nmsti 29, Praha 1. Tel 224 113 807. Fax 224 213 807. Rooms 24 Map 3 C3.
The hotel is popular with visitors thanks to the lovely view of the Star Msto from every room. The building
itself is old, but the interior furnishings are super-modern. It boasts a magnificent terrace reached by a glass
lift, and offers live jazz every evening. www.hoteluprince.com
Krlodvorsk 4, Praha 1. Tel 234 608 111. Fax 222 329 545. Rooms 78 Map 4 D3.
True to its name, this Art Nouveau hotel is opulent and dignified. Rooms are vast, the service is friendly, and the
hotel caf is a favourite meeting place for locals. The buffet breakfasts are very popular among regular visitors to
Prague. www.austria-hotels.at
Jungmannovo nmst 2, Praha 1. Tel 224 219 501. Fax 222 245 418. Rooms 8 Map 3 C5.
Probably the narrowest hotel in Prague, winner of many awards, this hotel offers large and luxurious double rooms
and suites, all with bathrooms. Tasty breakfasts are served in the Gothic cellar. Can arrange transport to and from
the airport. www.goldencross.cz
Opera /h0ez |
Tnov 13, Praha 1. Tel 222 315 609. Fax 222 311 477. Rooms 67 Map 4 F2.
The hotel occupies an imposing late 19th-century Neo-Renaissance building close to the State Opera. Rooms with
classic furniture and vast windows overlook the nearby park. The hotel bar has a good range of beers and is well
worth visiting. www.hotel-opera.cz
Legerova 39, 41, Praha 2. Tel 224 266 779. Fax 224 266 777. Rooms 50 Map 6 D2.
This somewhat run-down building houses a wonderful bed and breakfast establishment. Rooms are simple and
modern, many facing a small garden at the back, and some with exposed wooden beams. Guests can choose from
double or twin bedrooms, ideal for family accommodation. Breakfast is served in a small dining room. www.brezina.cz
Pension Museum z7 |
Mezibransk 15, Praha 1. Tel 296 325 186. Fax 296 325 188. Rooms 12 Map 6 D1.
The pension offers large rooms, most of them with a separate sleeping area and a small lounge. Excellent service,
tasty breakfasts and a phenomenal location close to Wenceslas Square combine to make this the best bed and
breakfast place in central Prague. Ideal for families. www.pension-museum.cz
Elysee /hez ||
Vclavsk nmst 43, Praha 1. Tel 221 455 111. Fax 224 225 773. Rooms 81 Map 4 D5.
If you are looking for a good but not luxurious hotel close to Wenceslas Square, this one will certainly provide the
answer to your needs. The rooms are of a fair size and tastefully furnished, and the location is perfect. Effective
sound-proofing eliminates street noises. Some apartments are available. www.hhotels.cz
Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 347
itn 46, Praha 2. Tel 222 923 111. Fax 222 923 222. Rooms 50 Map 6 D1/2.
A marvellous Neo-Classical building at the centre of the Nov Msto. The rooms are large, with excellent furnishings,
and the communal areas are surprisingly opulent. A sauna and whirlpool are available for a small charge, and all
rooms have Internet and TV. www.hotelsevendays.cz
Tchaikovsky /h0z7 ||
Ke Karlovu 19, Praha 1. Tel 224 912 121. Fax 224 912 123. Rooms 19 Map 5 C2.
The hotel stands in a quiet street, five minutes walk from Wenceslas Square. It offers charming traditional decor,
understated elegance and refinement. Rooms are fairly large and beautifully furnished. A buffet breakfast is included
in the price. www.hoteltchaikovsky.com
U Medvdk 0z ||
Na Pertne 7, Praha 1. Tel 224 211 916. Fax 224 220 930. Rooms 33 Map 3 B5.
Traditional Czech restaurant, pub and pension whose name translates as The Little Bears. The most expensive
rooms are larger and have wooden-beamed ceilings and a medieval flavour. It has a beerhall, which offers numerous
Czech beers, and a beer museum in the cellar. www.umedvidku.cz
V Celnici 8, Praha 1. Tel 222 888 888. Fax 222 888 889. Rooms 293 Map 4 E3.
One of the most splendid of all Marriott hotels, this offers an excellent location right by the Old Town gate. All
possible luxuries are available in each room. There is also a large health and fitness centre, with swimming pool. The
hotel restaurant is one of the best in town. www.marriott.com
Senovn nmsti 13, Praha 1. Tel 224 593 111. Fax 224 223 960. Rooms 152 Map 4 E4.
This beautifully decorated hotel, with marble floors and wall paintings, occupies a Neo-Classical building at the heart
of the city. It belongs to the Boscolo Group, and is magnificently luxurious, with the Box Block restaurant, a Cigar
Bar, a spa and a wonderful swimming pool with mosaic floor. www.boscolohotels.com
Hybernsk 12, Prague. Tel 226 226 111. Fax 224 221 579. Rooms 75 Map 4 E3.
Formerly the Baroque palace, U Vnku, the Kempinski offers an appealing blend of the historical and the
contemporary. Guests can relax in the generously sized rooms, suites and studios or pay a visit to the luxurious spa
and wellness centre. www.kempinski.com
tpnsk 40, Praha 1. Tel 222 820 000. Fax 222 820 100. Rooms 211 Map 6 D1.
This large, luxurious hotel is in a superbly restored 1930s building near Wenceslas Square. The views from the upper
floors of this hotel would provide a big enough attraction but there are others, including huge bathrooms and plush
carpets. It is expensive, but worth the price. www.radissonblu.com
PRAGUE ENVIRONS
Abri /h07 |
Jana Masaryka 36, Praha 2. Tel 222 515 124. Fax 224 254 240. Rooms 25
This comfortable hotel stands in the quiet residential district of Vinohrady. Small rooms with bathrooms are all well
equipped and furnished. The terrace in the small garden provides a pleasant place for a relaxing evening following a
day of sightseeing. The amenities include a secure car park and a restaurant. www.abri.cz
Aida /h07 |
Kubiova 23, Praha 8. Tel 284 680 628. Fax 284 684 570. Rooms 47
A modern, medium-size hotel offering plain rooms but with full facilities, including satellite TV, at reasonable prices.
It is located in a quiet district 4 km (2 miles) north of the city centre. Tram and metro run regularly nearby. The price
includes breakfast. www.hotelaida.cz
Boivojova 53, Praha 3. Tel 221 422 111. Fax 221 422 222. Rooms 73
In the residential district of ikov, the hotel occupies a building that was once a theatre. It offers good-quality
service, at affordable prices. Apart from the huge, well-furnished rooms it also has an excellent, quaintly furnished
restaurant located in the former auditorium, surrounded by balconies and boxes. www.arcotel.at
Ametyst /h0ez7 |
Jana Masaryka 11, Praha 2. Tel 222 921 921. Fax 222 921 999. Rooms 84 Map 6 F3.
Good, modern hotel with air-conditioned rooms, en suite bathrooms or showers and Internet access. The attic rooms
with exposed beams are the most attractive. The hotel offers sauna facilities and massage and also has a small,
pleasantly furnished restaurant. www.hotelametyst.cz
348 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Andels /h0:ez |
Stroupenickho 21, Praha 5. Tel 296 889 688. Fax 296 889 999. Rooms 239
The hotel, representing the latest combination of elegance with functionality, was designed by an award-winning
British team. The rooms are spacious, stylish and contemporary; the bathrooms have separate baths and showers,
and the hotel restaurant is one of the best in Prague. www.andelshotel.com
Ariston /0,7 |
Seifertova 65, Praha 3. Tel 222 782 517. Fax 222 780 347. Rooms 62
This good-quality three-star hotel is situated in a district close to the city centre. The rooms are a fair size, plain but
clean, with high ceilings and solid wooden furniture. All have en suite bathrooms. There are also rooms for non-
smokers, and some are adapted for disabled guests. www.europehotels.cz
Barcel /h0ez |
Na Stri 32, Praha 4. Tel 296 772 111. Fax 241 442 023. Rooms 213
A fine hotel, located a fair distance from the city centre, it belongs to a Spanish chain. Barcel offers high-quality
service, aiming mainly at large, organized groups of holidaymakers and business people. The rooms are spacious;
those on upper floors have fine views over the city. www.barcelopraha.com
Carlton /h0ez7 |
Tboritsk 18, Praha 3. Tel 222 711 177. Fax 222 711 199. Rooms 49
An exquisite, high-class hotel in ikov. Large rooms at affordable prices. The most popular ones are those on the top
floor, with sloping ceilings and exposed wooden beams. One room is specially adapted for people with disabilities.
Breakfast is served in a small basement restaurant. www.hhotel.cz
Duo /h0eS |
Teplick 492, Praha 9. Tel 266 131 111. Fax 283 880 141. Rooms 553
A huge hotel situated in the northern part of the city with large rooms and excellent service. Some rooms have
Internet access. It has the best sports centre in Prague, with swimming pool, fitness club, whirlpool, sauna and
bowling alley. The beer garden is open in warm weather. www.hotelduo.cz
Fgnerovo nmsti 4, Praha 2. Tel 224 261 181. Fax 224 262 182. Rooms 60 Map 6 D3.
A comfortable, if not luxurious hotel, situated close to the main Prague-Brno motorway. The large, spacious, bright
terrace under a huge glass roof, where you can pass a lazy afternoon over a cup of coffee overlooking the small
green garden, is probably the greatest attraction of this place. www.hotelgreengarden.cz
Hotel Amadeus /h |
Dalimilova 10, Praha 3. Tel 224 238 150. Fax 224 238 647. Rooms 50
Hotel Amadeus is pleasantly located only 10 minutes from Wenceslas Square. All rooms and apartments have a
shower and WC, small TV and telephone. Free Wi-Fi is available in the reception area and some rooms. The hotel has
its own underground parking garage. A buffet breakfast is included in the price. www.amadeushotel.cz
Suick 20, Praha 6. Tel 224 341 111. Fax 224 311 218. Rooms 124
When it first opened in 1981 this hotel was regarded by architects as the most modern in the republic, with unique
interior furnishings. Originally used by state dignitaries, it is now open to everyone, but it still remains attractive to
VIPs. www.htlpraha.cz
Kavalr /h0ez |
Plzesk 177, Praha 5. Tel 257 216 565. Fax 257 210 085. Rooms 50
The cheapest hotel of the H&Hotels group, the Kavalr is attractive, and lies south of Mal Strana. The rooms are
exceptionally large, some with double beds. The hotel is well-kept, bright and clean; its friendly staff speak several
languages. www.europehotels.cz
Nad Krlovskou oborou 53, Praha 7. Tel 233 101 331. Fax 233 101 311. Rooms 24
The hotel has a permanent exhibition of modern Czech art. Quiet and peaceful, it provides a good base for
sightseeing in town. Each room has unique decor; all are furnished with taste and panache. The interesting lighting
is subtle and romantic. Delicious breakfasts are included in the room price. www.arthotel.cz
Julin /h0ez7 ||
Eliky Pekov 11, Praha 5. Tel 257 311 150. Fax 257 311 149. Rooms 33
A good-quality hotel with small rooms but excellent service. The amenities include a sauna, solarium and a small
fitness club. Children are welcome. There are also rooms available for wheelchair users, and one room has a specially
adapted bathroom. Located near the river. www.julian.cz
Jankovo nbei 15, Praha 5. Tel 234 705 155. Fax 234 705 158. Rooms 81
The Riverside is a splendid hotel, offering unparalleled attention to comfort. Furnished with subtle elegance, it is
virtually perfect from the beautiful bathrooms to the original Czech art hung on the walls. As the name indicates,
the hotel lies close to the river. www.mamaison.com
Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 349
Mvenpick /h0eSz ||
Mozartova 1, Praha 5. Tel 257 151 111. Fax 257 153 131. Rooms 442
Despite its location far from the city centre, this is an excellent hotel. It occupies two buildings, linked by a cable car.
All rooms, some of them split-level, are large, comfortable and meet the highest standards. The hotel has two
restaurants, and its lobby bar is famous for its delicious ice creams. www.movenpick-prague.com
Mucha /h0ez ||
Sokolovsk 26, Praha 8. Tel 222 318 849. Fax 224 816 641. Rooms 39 Map 4 F2.
Despite being slightly overpriced, this is a very good hotel. It is named after the Czech artist Alfons Mucha.
Reproductions of his works decorate the entire interior, which is a real Art Deco jewel. There is a restaurant, bar and
sauna. www.hotelmucha.cz
Ortenovo nmsti 22, Praha 7. Tel 220 407 082. Fax 222 407 091. Rooms 87
The Alta offers large, comfortable rooms just outside Prague. Ndrai Holeovice train station is conveniently close by
and the metro takes you to the centre in a few minutes. A tasty breakfast is included in the price of a room.
www.plazahotelalta.com
U Blaenky /h0:z ||
U Blaenky 1, Praha 5. Tel 251 564 532. Fax 251 563 529. Rooms 13
Upon entering this grand villa in Pragues best residential district, you will feel your spirits soar. Everything in here is
of good quality; the rooms are modern, spacious and tastefully furnished. The restaurant serves delicious local cuisine
and offers a vast selection of wines. www.ublazenky.cz
Cimburkova 28, Praha 3. Tel 222 781 112. Fax 222 780 189. Rooms 78
The name of this hotel translates as The Three Crowns; the current price of the accommodation certainly exceeds
this amount, but it is still not exorbitant. Rooms are modest, but well equipped. The hotel is situated in the district of
ikov, about a 20-minute walk from Wenceslas Square. www.3korunky.cz
CENTRAL BOHEMIA
Tyrova 2063, 256 01. Tel 317 724 771. Fax 317 724 761. Rooms 26 Road map B3.
A modern hotel standing in the centre of Beneov, 2 km (1 mile) from Konopite Castle. Two-, three- and four-bed
rooms, with bathrooms and satellite TV; six rooms have a minibar. One room has wheelchair access. Restaurant with
a summer terrace. www.hotel-atlas.cz
Ratbo u Kolna, Komenskho 40, 281 41. Tel 321 613 111. Fax 321 613 101. Rooms 39 Road map B2.
The hotel is situated 5 km (3 miles) southwest of Koln, in a palace designed in Neo-Classical style by Czech
Modernist architect Jan Kotra. Luxuriously furnished rooms. The hotel restaurant specializes in Mediterranean
cuisine and has wines from all over the world. Sauna, gymnasium, bicycle hire, tennis courts. www.hotelkotera.cz
KIVOKLT Roztoky h0 |
Roztoky u Kivokltu 14, 270 23. Tel 313 558 931. Fax 313 558 933. Rooms 30 Road map B2.
A quiet, inexpensive hotel about 1.5 km (1 mile) from Kivoklt Castle, adjacent to a protected nature area,
Kivokltsko. Stylish restaurant serving tasty food, and outdoor seating in the summer. A pub brews its own beer on
the premises. www.hotelroztoky.cz
Zvonask .p. 286, 284 01. Tel 327 511 516. Fax 327 516 571. Rooms 7 Road map B2.
A small congenial hotel located within the historic Old Town, in a peaceful street close to the town square and
200 m (220 yds) from the bus station. It occupies a Baroque 18th-century building. All rooms have en suite facilities,
and the hotel has a pleasant restaurant (see p378). www.uzvonu.cz
Zmecka 52, 284 03. Tel 327 524 115. Fax 327 563 202. Rooms 13 Road map B2.
The hotel is on the outskirts of Sedlec, close to the famous Ossuary. Its stylish interiors are furnished with original old
furniture. It provides facilities for tennis, squash, bowling and paintball; it also has a swimming pool, sauna and
fitness club. The restaurant offers a wide selection of Czech and European cuisine. www.ruzehotel.cz
28. jna 511, 284 01. Tel 327 514 618. Fax 327 514 627. Rooms 10 Road map B2.
A snug hotel in a historic 15th-century building in a quiet street in the medieval town centre. Park, swimming pool
and tennis courts are all close by. Well-appointed rooms have views over the towers and steeples of the Old Town.
Has a good restaurant (see p378). www.vlasskydvur.cz
350 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Prask 2639, 276 01. Tel 315 622 419. Fax 226 013 803. Rooms 79 Road map B2.
A long-established hotel, located at the edge of the town, some 2 km (1 mile) from the centre. Ludmila offers
comfortable rooms of standard and economy class. It has a restaurant (see p379), pub and sports bar attached,
with a bowling alley; tennis courts nearby. www.ludmila.cz
MLNK U Ryt /0 |
Svatovclavsk 17, 276 01. Tel 315 621 440. Fax 315 621 439. Rooms 8 (apartments) Road map B2.
A charming little hotel, conveniently located in the historic town centre. A nearby viewpoint affords splendid views
over the confluence of the Vltava and Labe rivers. The luxurious restaurant serves Czech and European specialities;
vintage wines and a variety of beers are also on offer. www.urytiru.cz
Staromstsk nmst 108, 293 01. Tel 326 721 049. Fax 326 721 039. Rooms 31 Road map B2.
A smallish hotel in the town centre, at the foot of the castle. Pleasant rooms, with bathroom and TV, are clean and
snug. There are two restaurants: one serving Czech cuisine, the other specializing in fish dishes and with a garden
area for outdoor dining. www.uhradu.cz
Masarykovo nmst 27, 295 01. Tel 326 771 617. Fax 326 771 246. Rooms 20 Road map B2.
The hotel is very central. It offers pleasant, comfortable rooms with bathrooms, and two luxury suites. The stylish
restaurant serves Czech and European cuisine, and Czech draught beer. Served in the stone-vaulted cellar are
excellent Moravian wines and chefs specials.
Nmst T G Masaryka 143, 261 01. Tel 318 628 007. Tel/Fax 318 628 901. Rooms 22 Road map B3.
The hotel occupies a Baroque building right in the centre of the historic town, close to the steps leading to the
Marian Sanctuary of Svat Hora. Double rooms, two suites and a room for a family with children are all equipped to
modern standards. There is a stylish restaurant (see p379). www.modryhrozen.cz
SZAVA Szava /0 |
Beneovsk 44, 285 06. Tel 327 320 497. Fax 327 321 117. Rooms 9 Road map B2.
A bijou hotel set in a Baroque building. Rooms have a good range of facilities. Caters for families. Every couple
checking in for the night receives a complimentary bottle of wine. The restaurant is famous throughout the Czech
Republic for its excellent cuisine. web.telecom.cz/hotel-sazava
SOUTH BOHEMIA
Radnin 11, 370 01. Tel 386 354 121. Fax 386 354 120. Rooms 12 Road map B3.
A small congenial hotel in the town centre, whose name translates as The Salt Gate. Rooms with balconies or
terraces. The hotel restaurant (see p380) offers a wide selection of dishes, including superb local fish and game, and
a large choice of Moravian wines. www.hotelusolnebrany.cz
U T lv 3a, 370 01. Tel 386 359 900. Fax 386 359 780. Rooms 36 Road map B3.
Modern, well-appointed hotel on the edge of the Old Town. Seven rooms and a terraced restaurant are adapted to
the needs of disabled guests. All rooms have satellite TV, telephone, radio and minibar. The restaurant offers Czech,
Slovak and international dishes. www.hotelutrilvu.cz
Krajinsk 41, 370 01. Tel 387 001 710. Fax 387 001 711. Rooms 10 Road map B3.
Occupying two Renaissance houses decorated with sgraffito, this is a small and friendly place. Comfortable rooms
with modern furnishings including an office desk and Internet access. Considerable reductions are offered on Sunday
nights. A buffet breakfast is included in the price. www.zatkuvdum.cz
Nmst Pemysla Otakara II 28, 370 01. Tel 381 601 601. Fax 381 601 605. Rooms 70 Road map B3.
The hotel, occupying three historic buildings in the main town square, boasts traditions going back to the 16th
century. The main reception area features some beautiful paintings and a 17th-century hand-carved ceiling. The
rooms, of various sizes, are all of individual character. The hotel also has three restaurants. www.hotel-zvon.cz
Latrn 77, 381 01. Tel 380 720 111. Fax 380 720 119. Rooms 65 Road map B3.
The hotel, opened in June 2002, will satisfy even the most fastidious of guests, for a moderate price. Right in the
heart of Latrn, it has luxurious rooms and suites, with satellite TV, Internet access and safes. The restaurant offers
up-to-the-minute cuisine. www.hmv.cz
Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 351
Soukenick 33, 381 01. Tel 380 725 911. Fax 380 725 910. Rooms 11 Road map B3.
A cosy, refurbished hotel situated in a historic building dating from 1582 and featuring lovely wooden
ceilings and a Baroque staircase. It is centrally located near the main square. The price includes breakfast, which
is served in the large dining room. www.hotel-leonardo.cz
Lineck 54, 381 01. Tel 723 854 195. Rooms 17 Road map B3.
This small, congenial pension in a pink Baroque building is located on the edge of the historic town centre but
within easy reach of the main sights. It offers luxury rooms, adapted for people with disabilities, fitted with satellite
TV and en suite bathrooms. www.pension-rosa.cz
Nmst Svornosti 11, 381 01. Tel 380 712 310. Fax 380 712 927. Rooms 39 Road map B3.
In a Baroque building right at the town centre, opposite the town hall, this magnificent hotel perfectly combines
tradition with modernity. All rooms, with en suite bathroom, satellite TV and minibar, are of a very high standard.
The hotel has two restaurants, a cocktail bar, a caf and a grill. www.hotelzlatyandel.cz
Masarykova 972, 373 41. Tel 387 967 777. Fax 387 967 787. Rooms 10 Road map B3.
This luxury hotel is situated near the castle. It has ten suites, each consisting of two bedrooms, dining room, lounge,
kitchen, separate bathroom and WC, offering comfort and good-value facilities for business travellers, individual
tourists and families alike. www.kamille.cz
Bezruova 141, 373 41. Tel 387 967 491. Fax 387 967 491. Rooms 44 Road map B3.
A romantic hotel in a Neo-Gothic building in beautiful surroundings close to the castle. Room furnishings are
reminiscent of castle interiors; no two are identical. Each room is decorated with copies of Old Dutch masters. The
wellness centre offers Thai massage.
Nmst Mru 162/I, 377 01. Tel 384 361 271. Fax 607 853 976. Rooms 18 Road map B3.
An inexpensive hotel of a decent standard. It is housed in one of the former merchants dwellings in the central town
square, surrounded by other historic houses. The restaurant serves traditional Czech cuisine, chefs specials and
Moravian wines. www.hotel-vajgar.cz
rmkova 169, 397 01. Tel 382 214 931. Fax 382 219 002. Rooms 35 Road map B3.
An elegant hotel in the town centre, with a name that translates as White Rose. Rooms are equipped with
bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. There is a restaurant and stylish cellar; the bar has live music and there is a
beerhall with Czech cuisine and a dance floor. www.hotelbilaruze.cz
Vn 51, 383 01. Tel/Fax 388 311 868. Rooms 17 Road map B3.
The hotel is housed in a historic 14th-century building attached to the external city walls. In 1993 the building
underwent reconstruction and its historic interiors have been supplemented with modern furnishings. The reception
is in a Renaissance hall with a vaulted wooden ceiling. Pleasant restaurant (see p381). www.hotelparkan.cz
PRACHATICE Koruna h0 |
Velk nmst 48, 383 01. Tel 388 310 177. Rooms 20 Road map B3.
In the predominantly Renaissance town centre of Prachatice, this hotel occupies a medieval building. Its rooms have
en suite and satellite TV. The hotel restaurant will satisfy any gourmets, with its old Czech specialities and modern
variations on local cuisine. The wine cellar is worthy of attention. www.pthotel.cz
Romberk nad Vltavou 78, 382 18. Tel 380 749 715. Fax 380 749 717. Rooms 14 Road map B3.
A small congenial hotel occupying a 16th-century Renaissance house at the foot of the castle. It combines the
romantic air of an old building with modern room furnishings. There are two suites Komnata Petra Voka and
Prechty z Romberka. Two restaurants serve Czech cuisine. www.hotel-ruze.cz
Nmst Mru 466, 378 81. Tel 384 408 408. Fax 384 408 401. Rooms 19 Road map B3.
The hotel occupies a beautiful pink and white Renaissance town house in the town square. Inside, the atmosphere is
quiet and refined. The comfortable rooms have all modern facilities, and there is a restaurant. Bicycle hire is available
for leisurely exploration of the area. www.hotelarkada.cz
9. kvtna 617, 390 01. Tel 381 256 096. Fax 381 252 411. Rooms 25 Road map B3.
Situated close to the medieval town centre, the Kapital offers clean rooms with all modern facilities. Restaurant with
a terrace for summer dining (see p382). Bicycle hire is available; the hotel can also arrange horse riding and jaunts in
a horse and cart. www.hotel-kapital.cz
352 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
U Svta 750, 379 01. Tel 384 721 394. Fax 384 721 395. Rooms 85 Road map C3.
A complex of two hotels situated on the outskirts of town, close to the Svet pond, one of the largest of the areas
many fish ponds. There are two restaurants in the complex, including one on the lakeside that specializes in fish
dishes. www.bohemia-regent.cz
WEST BOHEMIA
Nmst Krle Jiho z Podbrad 5, 350 02. Tel 354 422 549. Fax 354 422 546. Rooms 20 Road map A2.
The hotel occupies an historic town house in the Old Town square and is near all the towns main sights. Rooms are
well kept and pleasant, but not all have en suite bathrooms. The hotel has facilities for the disabled. Restaurant with
a terrace. www.hotel-hvezda.cz
idovsk 7, 350 02. Tel 354 423 401, 606 344 140. Fax 354 423 401. Rooms 8 Road map A2.
A small pension of a higher than usual standard, situated in the Old Town, just off the the town square. High-
ceilinged double rooms with bathrooms; the rooms can be combined into larger units. Breakfast is not included in
the price. http://tic.mestocheb.cz
Vodn 33, 334 01. Tel 379 720 200. Rooms 10 Road map A3.
In a medieval house, within Domalices Old Town centre, this hotel has views of the castle. Following its
refurbishment the spacious rooms offer homely facilities and atmosphere. There is a beautifully kept garden for
relaxation. In the hotel basement is a stylish restaurant-pizzeria. www.konselskysenk.cz
koln 107, 334 01. Tel 379 725 962. Fax 379 725 962. Rooms 10 Road map A3.
Situated in Domalices historic town centre, 100 m (110 yds) from the main square, the pension offers plainly
furnished but clean rooms with bathroom, at very attractive prices. There is also an apartment. The terrace is open in
summer. Bicycle hire is available. www.pensionfamily.cz
Anglick 392/5A, 351 01. Tel 354 543 156. Fax 354 543 157. Rooms 20 Road map A2.
A comfortable, small, stylish hotel close to the main park. Elegant rooms and suites each have a bathroom and all
the usual facilities. The hotels spa centre offers baths, massage and an extensive range of treatments under medical
supervision. www.spahotelcentrum.cz
HOROVSK TN umava h0 |
Nmst Republiky 11, 346 01. Tel 379 422 800. Rooms 10 Road map A3.
Excellent for business or tourist groups, this small, congenial hotel is in the town square. Offers a decent standard of
rooms each with bathroom and a small TV set. Serves lunch and dinner, mainly Czech cuisine. Dogs and cats
welcome. www.hotel.htyn.cz
T G Masaryka 43, 360 01. Tel 353 229 613. Fax 353 236 171. Rooms 5 Road map A2.
A small hotel in the centre of the resorts pedestrianized zone, in a peaceful and quiet district within easy reach of
bus and train stations. Large, bright rooms with pleasant decor and comfortable beds. Restaurant offers home
cooking and some outdoor seating. www.kavalerie.cz
Sadov 44, 360 01. Tel 353 237 520. Fax 353 237 521. Rooms 37 Road map A2.
This four-star hotel in a late 19th-century building close to the synagogue offers luxury conditions to its residents.
The amenities include a spa, medical care and a restaurant serving international cuisine and Czech specialities.
Special diets are catered for. www.cajkovskij.com
Trit 37, 360 90. Tel 353 222 646. Fax 353 224 134. Rooms 37 Road map A2.
Right at the centre of the resort, opposite the Castle Spa, this hotel offers comfortable, well-appointed rooms that
are stylishly furnished and suitable for holiday-makers and business travellers alike. Restaurant with a summer terrace
that offers stunning views. www.hotelromance.cz
Mrov nmst 2, 360 91. Tel 353 109 111. Fax 353 224 032. Rooms 228 Road map A2.
One of the most famous Czech hotels, with traditions going back to the early 18th century. Luxuriously furnished
rooms with minibar, safe, satellite TV and dazzling bathrooms. The amenities include restaurant (see p382), casino,
an impressive concert hall with Neo-Baroque interior, and of course a fabulous spa centre. www.pupp.cz
Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 353
LOKET Bl k /h0 |
T G Masaryka 109, 357 33. Tel 352 661 809. Fax 352 661 877. Rooms 26 Road map A2.
The name of this elegant, modernized hotel translates as White Horse. It occupies a Neo-Renaissance
house in the Old Town Square that J W Goethe visited many times. The amenities include restaurant, wine
bar and summer terrace. www.hotel-bilykun.cz
Nehrova 141/1, 353 01. Tel 354 603 301. Fax 354 603 303. Rooms 29 Road map A2.
In a grand Neo-Classical building in the resorts centre, this hotel has retained its period interiors. Accommodation is
in luxurious rooms. Offers medical treatment, therapy and rehabilitation; swimming pool (therapeutic baths). The
restaurant menu is extensive. www.hotelmaxim.cz
Hlavn 121, 353 01. Tel 354 697 111. Fax 354 697 221. Rooms 64 Road map A2.
Situated in a large, ornate building close to the Singing Fountain, the hotel offers pleasantly furnished rooms, most
with bathrooms. It is part of the Orea chain of hotels. The Restaurant 1900 serves international cuisine; there is also a
summer terrace. hotelexcelsior.cz
Zbrojnick 8, 301 00. Tel 377 235 292. Fax 377 221 746. Rooms 85 Road map A3.
The Continental is situated in a building that dates from 1895. Its elegant rooms display individual character; a dozen
or so have decor associated with certain themes, such as the sea, old Paris or London. Its former guests include
celebrities, such as Marlene Dietrich and John Malkovich. Live music nightly. www.hotelcontinental.cz
Na Po 398/3, 301 00. Tel 373 729 612. Fax 373 729 616. Rooms 21 Road map A3.
This hotel, in a Neo-Classical building with a magnificent view over the river, is situated very close to the town centre.
Clean, modern, well-equipped rooms with spotless bathrooms. Buffet breakfast. Sauna, hydro-massage, therapeutic
gymnastics. Naturally, Pilsner Urquell is served in the bar. www.irida.cz
Borsk 19, 301 00. Tel 377 221 010. Fax 377 423 370. Rooms 56 Road map A3.
The hotel occupies a grand, early 20th-century town house, a 10-minute walk from the town centre. Homely
interiors create a relaxing, intimate atmosphere. The small walled terrace is a peaceful place to eat out in warm
weather. Fitness club, massages, billiards. Bicycle hire is available. www.hotel-victoria.cz
U Borskho parku 31, 320 04. Tel 378 772 977. Fax 378 772 978. Rooms 150 Road map A3.
This hotel is in a beautiful area of Borsk Park. Comfortable, luxuriously furnished rooms. Italian food is served in the
romantic Emporio restaurant (see p383), and there is an excellent wine bar. A golf driving
range is attached to the hotel with facilities to hire equipment. www.parkhotel-plzen.cz
NORTH BOHEMIA
U Plovrny 43, 405 01. Tel 412 518 859. Rooms 38 Road map B2.
The hotel is located near a pond in the centre of Dn, close to the town square. Well-appointed rooms with en
suite bathrooms; one adapted for the disabled. Restaurant with a terrace and a specialist selection of South
Moravian wines. www.hotelfaust.cz
Mezn 71, 407 17. Tel 412 554 220. Tel/Fax 412 554 027. Rooms 24 Road map B2.
Enjoying a magnificent setting at the heart of esk vcarsko National Park, the hotel occupies the building of a former
gamekeepers house, which in the late 19th century was turned into a hotel. It provides an excellent base for exploring
the park. The facilities include mountain-bike hire, table tennis and billiards. www.cztour.cz/meznilouka
Hensko 37, 407 17. Tel 412 554 006. Fax. 412 554 162. Rooms 30 Road map B2.
A beautifully located hotel in the town of Hensko, on the edge of esk vcarsko National Park. It occupies a stylish
building representing the regional architecture, built in 1914 and modernized in 1995. It offers high standards and
luxuriously appointed rooms. www.hotel-hrensko.cz
elezn 2/1, 460 01. Tel 485 102 655. Fax 485 113 138. Rooms 30 Road map B2.
In a lovely Art Nouveau building constructed as a hotel in 1905, the Hotel Praha is in a central location in the town
square. It was modernized during the 1990s and now offers comfortable rooms, a good restaurant and stylish Art
Nouveau interiors. www.hotelpraha.net
354 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Masarykova 44, 460 01. Tel 482 710 407. Fax 482 710 437. Rooms 38 Road map B2.
The hotel is a 15-minute walk east of the town centre, in a leafy area close to the zoo and the botanical gardens.
Nearby is an indoor swimming pool and aquapark. Bicycle trails lead from the hotel to the Jizersk hory mountains.
www.hotelujezirka.cz
Hodkovick 52, 460 13. Tel 482 772 510. Fax 485 135 184. Rooms 20 Road map B2.
A stylish three-star hotel near the town centre, close to the Jested sports complex and Babylon entertainment centre.
Pleasant rooms with bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. The facilities include restaurant, bar, caf and secure
parking. www.hotelimpuls.cz
LIBEREC Koick h |
Koick 471, 460 03. Tel 486 131 470, 608 001 168. Road map B2.
Hostel-type accommodation is offered in this inexpensive hotel. Rooms for two and four occupants, with one
bathroom shared between two rooms; facilities are basic but clean. Apartments are available. Private car park. Close
to railway and bus stations. www.ubytovna-liberec.cz
Sovova 3, 412 01. Tel 724 835 848. Fax 416 533 660. Rooms 14 Road map B2.
A pleasant little hotel in the town centre, and a good base for visiting the Terezn fortress to the south. Baths have
whirlpool massage. Horse riding can be arranged. Amenities nearby include an indoor swimming pool, thermal
baths, sauna, solarium and bicycle trail. www.dejmalik.eu
U Hadch lzn 1153, 415 01. Tel 417 531 446. Fax 417 531 448. Rooms 35 Road map B2.
The elegant Neo-Classical building enjoys a magnificent view over the spa park. The hotel offers comfortable rooms
with air conditioning, minibar and satellite TV. Facilities for the disabled. It has a new wing with slightly more
expensive double rooms in a contemporary style. www.hotelpayer.cz
Nmst Svobody 155, 438 01. Tel & Fax 415 711 000. Rooms 21 Road map B2.
The hotel is in the historic town centre, occupying a modernized burghers house built in 1235, and featuring some
original stonemasonry. Rooms are comfortable and it has two restaurants (see p385). Solarium, swimming pool,
fitness club, bowling and cinema are all close by. www.uhada-zatec.cz
EAST BOHEMIA
tefnikova 1029, 544 01. Tel 499 628 255. Fax 499 629 393. Rooms 30 Road map C2.
A luxurious hotel, close to the famous zoo. Well-equipped rooms all have French windows or balconies looking out
over the central courtyard, which has an outdoor swimming pool. Bowling alley. Guests are entitled to a discount
when visiting the zoo. www.hotelsafari.cz
Heyrovskho 1177, 500 03. Tel 495 511 175. Rooms 131 Road map C2.
An inexpensive hotel standing on the southern outskirts of town, 1 km (half a mile) from the centre. Rooms are
mainly doubles, and there is also a small dormitory. Bathrooms are shared between two rooms. A restaurant and a
sauna are close by. www.hotelovydum.cz
Velk nmst 32, 500 03. Tel 495 063 111. Fax 495 063 405. Rooms 35 Road map C2.
A well-appointed pension with a restaurant housed in an historic Baroque building in the Old Town square. Rooms
are simply furnished, but clean, all with bathroom, TV and telephone. Close by is a large car park, where hotel
residents may leave their cars. www.noveadalbertinum.cz
Mal nmst 11, 500 03. Tel 495 518 052. Fax 495 518 872. Rooms 33 Road map C2.
In the historic town centre, the hotel occupies two burghers houses dating from the 14th century. The old cellars and
vaulted ceilings have been left untouched during the modernization of the premises. The hotel offers a family atmosphere
and luxuriously furnished rooms. In the cellar is a wine bar with live music. www.hotel-ukralovnyelisky.info
Havlkova 21, 506 01. Tel 493 544 250. Fax 493 544 251. Rooms 16 Road map B2.
The hotel is in the historic town centre, a short distance from the Valdice Gate. Its renowned restaurant, U dlov
koule, serves game dishes and Czech cuisine. The shop in the cellar offers a wide selection of Bohemian, Moravian
and foreign wines. www.hoteljicin.cz
Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 355
LITOMYL Petra /h |
B. Nmcov 166, 570 01. Tel 777 613 061. Fax 461 613 061. Rooms 5 Road map C2.
A small congenial pension in a modernized Renaissance house, in the Old Town. The two rooms on the ground floor
have vaulted ceilings in keeping with the building; all have bathrooms. Breakfast is included in the price. There is a
pretty courtyard garden. www.pension-petra.cz
U stadionu 670, 517 73. Tel 494 668 232. Fax 494 667 480. Rooms 82 Road map C2.
Large, modern hotel close to the town square, aimed mainly at business travellers. It has good facilities for visitors
with disabilities. It is situated within a sports complex that includes a stadium, playing fields, tennis courts, football
pitch and swimming pool.
Kosteln 100, 530 02. Tel 466 511 179. Rooms 10 Road map C2.
Located in the historical centre of the city of Pardubice, Hotel 100 offers quiet, stylish accommodation. Double
and single rooms are available as well as one apartment. Some rooms have views of the castle; all have ensuite
bathrooms and satellite television. Free wireless Internet access available. www.hotel100.cz
trossova 127, 530 02. Tel 466 052 100. Fax 466 052 130. Rooms 40 Road map C2.
This luxurious, modern hotel is at the edge of the town centre. It offers elegant, sunny rooms; in every one of them
the guest will find a bottle of good wine. The amenities include a restaurant, wine bar, and alehouse refurbished in
traditional style. www.zlatastika.cz
Havlkova 10, 541 01. Tel 499 811 9556. Fax 499 811 957. Rooms 58 Road map C2.
Just a few steps from the main square (Krakonoovo nmst), Hotel Adam is made up of two historical buildings,
both listed as cultural monuments. The hotel features all the usual amenities and a restaurant serving regional Czech
dishes. Trips into the Krkonoe range can be arranged on request. www.hotel-adam.cz
Krkonosk 153, 543 01. Tel 499 429 629. Fax 499 429 632. Rooms 34 Road map B2.
A modern, central hotel, this forms part of a complex that includes a bank and shopping arcade. It is named after
Christopher of Gendorf, a royal counsellor who made great contributions to the towns development. The hotel offers
therapy and rehabilitation treatment sauna, massage, cosmetic laser procedures, and others. www.gendorf.cz
783 25. Tel 585 346 491. Fax 585 346 282. Rooms 13 Road map C3.
Situated right in the town centre, at the foot of Bouzov Castle, the hotel offers rustic-style rooms with simple and
comfortable furnishings, and a restaurant specializing in country cuisine (see p387). An ideal place to stay when
exploring the popular castle. www.cimbura.hotel-cz.com
K vod 430, 790 01. Tel 588 000 914. Rooms 27 Road map C2.
This establishment enjoys a beautiful location on the outskirts of town, with views over the Jesenki mountains. The
adjacent field is equipped with tables for outdoor eating and has a barbecue area where residents can cook their
own food. Well-appointed rooms. Services include sauna and massage. www.nodus.hotel-cz.com
Lidick 6, 741 01. Tel/Fax 556 701 229. Rooms 24 Road map D3.
An elegant hotel housed in an Art Nouveau building in the Old Town centre, close to the town square. Rooms have
en suite bathroom, satellite TV and telephone; the suites also have a minibar. The large restaurant (see p387) is set in
a grand period interior. www.prahahotel.cz
Univerzitn 20, 771 00. Tel 585 232 351. Fax 585 232 350. Rooms 39 Road map C3.
A small, stylish hotel in the town centre. The building itself is a historic site and owes its name to the Italian painter,
Francesco Arigone, who owned it in the 18th century. The restored interiors feature some remains of the original
Romanesque stone masonry. Popular restaurant on two levels and bar. www.arigone.cz
Pavelakova 22, 772 00. Tel 585 222 115. Fax 585 231 730. Rooms 33 Road map C3.
Hotel Gemo is housed in a renovated 13th-century building situated in the historical centre of Olomouc. The specially
designed retro-style furniture and paintings by Moravian artists including the famous Czech painter Kristian Kodet
enhance the unique atmosphere. Excellent restaurant (see p387). www.hotel-gemo.cz
356 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Brnnsk 55, 779 00. Tel 585 421 735. Fax 585 412 367. Rooms 58 Road map C3.
This hotel is situated on the outskirts of town, a 10-minute stroll from the centre, along the main road to Brno.
It offers luxurious rooms with all modern facilities. Internet room, Xerox and fax are all available to the residents.
There is a large car park in front of the hotel. www.hotel-hesperia.cz
Ulice 8. kvtna 9, 772 00. Tel/Fax 585 209 995. Rooms 5 Road map C3.
Close to the Upper Market, this pension is in an historic Renaissance building, which dates back to the 15th century.
In recent years the building has undergone a complete modernization. It offers four luxury studio-apartments, with
fully equipped kitchens, and a three-bedroom attic apartment. www.pensionujakuba.com
Pekask 11, 74 601. Tel 553 776 700. Fax 553 776 702. Rooms 23 Road map D2.
A Spanish flavour distinguishes this modern hotel in a 19th-century town house, close to the town square. Rooms
are stylishly decorated and have bathroom, satellite TV, minibar and Internet access. The Castillo restaurant in the
basement offers Spanish and Czech food and wine. www.hoteliberia.cz
Ndran 124, 702 00. Tel 596 134 000. Rooms 20 Road map D2.
Located along the main street that links the town centre with the railway station, this hotel is in a historic building
with refurbished and modernized interiors. A pleasant wine bar is open in the evenings. A 20 per cent discount is
offered at weekends.
OSTRAVA Polsk Dm /0 |
Podbradova 53, 714 00. Tel 596 122 001. Fax 596 125 062. Rooms 20 Road map D2.
A well-appointed hotel with beautiful Art Nouveau interiors in Ostravas town centre. The rooms are not very large,
but they are clean and well equipped: all with en suite bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. There are two
restaurants for residents; breakfast is from a self-service bar. www.polskydum.cz
echova 11, 785 01. Tel/Fax 585 011 742. Rooms 24 Road map C3.
The hotel is situated in the towns historic centre close to Sternberg Castle. It is housed in a restored building, which
succeeds in creating a pleasant family atmosphere and comfortable conditions in which to relax. An elegant
restaurant. www.hotelm.netsimple.cz
SOUTH MORAVIA
BRNO Amphone h0 |
Tda Kapitna Jaroe 29, 602 00. Tel 545 428 310. Fax 545 428 311. Rooms 55 Road map C3.
A friendly family hotel set in a quiet street at the centre of Brno. It occupies a restored 19th-century town house. In
addition to well-equipped double rooms, it has a small apartment. Excellent food, and in summer it is possible to eat
outside on the terrace. Billiards, table tennis, sauna. www.amphone.cz
Svatopetrsk 26. Tel 545 233 500. Fax 545 233 531. Rooms 23 Road map C3.
Business travellers as well as holidaymakers wishing to relax will enjoy this modern hotel a 10-minute walk from the
town centre. Its elegant, well-equipped rooms are spacious and bright. Tennis courts for the use of residents.
www.hotel-bilaruze.cz
Horn 19, 639 00. Tel 543 555 100. Fax 543 215 308. Rooms 90 Road map C3.
The hotel stands in a peaceful area, not far from Brnos centre. Tastefully and simply furnished rooms and suites,
including six rooms adapted for people with disabilities. Restaurant specializes in Moravian cuisine.
www.hotelbrno.cz
Kkovskho 20, 603 00. Tel 543 122 111. Fax 543 246 990. Rooms 201 Road map C3.
Situated near the trade fair complex near the centre of Brno, this hotel has won numerous awards for its high-quality
service. Large rooms decorated in red and yellow are well-equipped and comfortable. The Prominent restaurant (see
p388) serves dishes prepared in front of diners. There is also a hotel brasserie. www.hibrno.cz
Kkovskho 47, 603 73. Tel 543 141 111. Fax 543 212 002. Rooms 369 Road map C3.
This four-star hotel has the regions largest business centre. Air-conditioned rooms, excellent service and hotel restau-
rants satisfy even the most fastidious of guests. There is a whisky bar with live music every evening, and a pub called
the Moravian Cottage. www.orea.cz
Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 357
Husova 16, 659 21. Tel 542 122 783. Fax 542 211 251. Rooms 252 Road map C3.
Belonging to the Best Western Premier group, this modern hotel offers superbly equipped rooms and suites all with
bathroom, satellite TV, minibar and safe. Its two restaurants, Lucullus and Pilsen, are among the most popular in
Brno. www.hotelinternational.cz
Husova 1, 587 52. Tel 567 121 011. Fax 567 310 199. Rooms 33 Road map C3.
In a lovely Art Nouveau building dating from the early 20th century, this hotel is in the town centre, close to the town
square. It offers rooms and three suites furnished with period furniture, in keeping with the hotels character. Bureau
de change and souvenir shop in the reception area. Restaurant and wine bar. www.grandjihlava.cz
Velk nmst 108, 767 01. Tel 573 342 777. Fax 573 342 777. Rooms 11 Road map D3.
A small congenial hotel, occupying a Baroque house in the town square. Tastefully decorated rooms, some of which
have views of the square and the castle. Restaurant (see p389) has an outdoor seated area open in the summer
months in the arched entrance to the hotel. www.hotelboucek.cz
Riegrovo nmst 7, 767 01. Tel/Fax 573 333 023. Rooms 12 Road map D3.
Located in the historical centre of Krom, the Pension Excellent guesthouse is housed in a beautiful old building
and offers comfortable accommodation. All rooms have satellite television and there is a lovely terrace and a
restaurant serving traditional Czech cuisine. Sauna and free Internet access. www.tunker.com
esk 2, 692 01. Tel/Fax 519 512 076. Rooms 15 Road map C3.
Right in the centre of this small town, the Rva has rooms and a summer terrrace overlooking Mikulov Castle.
The restaurant offers a wide selection of Czech dishes and local wines. There is also Italian cuisine on offer, with
pizzas a speciality. www.hotelreva.cz
Nmst Zacharie z Hradce 20, 588 56. Tel 775 999 186. Rooms 9 Road map B3.
This hotel/pension offers comfortable accommodation in a refurbished town house situated in the centre of Tel,
a delightful Czech market town acknowledged by UNESCO for its heritage status. The rooms have beautiful views.
Free TV and Internet. Breakfast is a Swedish-style buffet. Bicycles are available for hire. www.hotel-pension-telc.cz
Na Mstku 37, 588 56. Tel 567 243 109. Fax 567 223 887. Rooms 11 Road map B3.
A small hotel in a street just off the main square in Tel, occupying a Renaissance town house. It offers a high
standard, comfortable rooms and family atmosphere. Its associated restaurant, U Zachariae, spills out on to the
town square. www.hoteltelc.cz
Nmst Zacharie z Hradce 52, 588 56. Tel 567 243 424. Rooms 7 Road map B3.
Housed in one of the stunning, arcaded buildings that surround the historic town square, Penzion Steidler offers
comfortable, simply furnished rooms, some with views towards the lake. A kitchenette is available for guests to
use and there is a common room with a fireplace and television. www.telc-accommodation.eu
Karlovo nmst 5, 674 01. Tel 568 848 560. Fax 568 848 563. Rooms 100 Road map C3.
Modern hotel in the town centre offering comfortable rooms of a high standard, simply furnished and with pale
wooden floors. Amenities include a sauna, bowling alley and fitness club. The restaurant has local specialities and
wines (see p389). www.hotel-trebic.cz
Nmst 45, 671 03. Tel 515 296 216, 515 296 253. Rooms 17 Road map C3.
The hotel enjoys a prominent location on the main square directly below the castle, in a historic building known as
Peters House, whose origins go back to 1524. The rooms are bright and comfortable; there is one apartment, and
some four- and three-bed rooms as well as singles and doubles. www.pod-zamkem.cz
Strojrensk 372, 591 01. Tel/Fax 566 625 208. Rooms 22 Road map C3.
This modernized hotel in the style of a manor house is situated on the outskirts of town, and occupies a house
dating back to 1908. Rooms are comfortably furnished. Spacious restaurant serving Czech cuisine, as well as a large
hotel bar. www.hotelh.cz
Horn nmst 16, 669 01. Tel 515 224 147. Rooms 10 Road map C3.
The hotel is situated in the Old Town square, in a historic house. The rooms are comfortably and individually
furnished. The restaurant offers an attractive choice of menu and local wines. There is a wine bar in the cellar with
many local wines to choose from. www.hotel-morava-znojmo.cz
358 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
BRATISLAVA
Echo h07
Preovsk 39, 821 08 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 55 56 91 70. Fax (02) 55 56 91 74. Rooms 34 Road map C4.
On the eastern edge of the city centre, the hotel is close to the sports hall, stadium, and swimming pools. All the
rooms are spotlessly clean, comfortably furnished and have bathrooms. The hotel restaurant serves breakfast, lunch
and dinner. www.hotelecho.sk
Viedensk cesta 37, 851 01 Bratislava 5. Tel (02) 67 27 31 21. Fax (02) 67 27 25 42. Rooms 85 Road map C4.
The hotel is situated within the area of Incheba Expo Bratislava, a major exhibition centre on the right bank of the
Danube. Rooms and suites all have an en suite bathroom and telephone. Fitness club, squash courts, sauna and
solarium. Superb, generous breakfasts. During exhibitions the hotel is often fully booked. www.incheba.sk
Turist /h0
Ondavsk 5, 822 05 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 55 57 27 89. Fax (02) 55 57 31 80. Rooms 99 Road map C4.
About 1.5 km (1 mile) from the historic town centre, the hotel offers plain yet comfortable conditions at reasonable
prices. All rooms have balconies; some are provided with refrigerators. Breakfast included in the price. There are
plenty of amenities nearby, including a park, swimming pool, ice rink and bowling alley. www.turist.sk
ulekova 20, 811 06 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 10 02 00. Fax (02) 59 10 02 50. Rooms 32 Road map C4.
Close to the city centre and castle, this is the only apartment-type hotel in Bratislava. It offers beautifully fitted apart-
ments with modern decor, complete with kitchen and minibar. Convenient for a longer stay (reduced rates). Part of
the Ma Maison chain, which operates hotels in the capitals of Central Europe. www.residence-sulekova.com
Barnka /h0eSz,7
Murdochova 2, 835 27 Bratislava 37. Tel (02) 44 88 20 89. Fax (02) 44 88 54 00. Rooms 122 Road map C4.
Modern, three-star hotel situated in the Raa district, in a picturesque wine-growing area 20 minutes by tram to the
city centre. Smartly furnished rooms with satellite TV, radio and refrigerator; bathrooms with hairdryers. The facilities
include restaurant, wine bar, summer terrace and a conference room. www.hotelbaronka.sk
ulekova 15/A, 811 03 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 54 64 89 71. Fax (02) 54 64 89 72. Rooms 16 Road map C4.
A small hotel with superb facilities, located in the quiet residential area at the foot of the castle. Rooms are
decorated in a contemporary style, with air conditioning, satellite TV, wireless Internet connection, minibar and safe.
In the summer breakfast is served in the peaceful garden. www.hotelantares.sk
Cesta na Kamzik, 833 29 Bratislava 37. Tel (02) 54 78 86 92. Fax (02) 54 77 77 81. Rooms 49 Road map C4.
The hotel stands in a forested area northwest of the city, close to Kamzik mountain. Since 1999 it has been part of
the international Best Western chain, which guarantees a high standard of service. The luxuriously furnished rooms
include desks. The restaurant has an imposing interior and serves a wide variety of dishes. www.hotel-west.sk
Nbreie arm. gen. L. Svobodu, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 54 64 18 04. Rooms 32 Road map C4.
This four-star hotel is located on a boat moored off the left bank of the Danube, at the foot of the castle. It offers
comfortable cabins and suites with air-conditioning, Internet access and minibar. There is a nightclub on board. A
unique atmosphere and in an ideal location. www.botelmarina.sk
Seberniho 9, 821 03 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 20 60 61 50. Fax (02) 20 60 61 22. Rooms 240 Road map C4.
One of the citys biggest hotels, it is situated in the Ruinov district, between the city centre and the airport. The
rooms are luxurious and stylish. There is a restaurant, lobby bar and grill bar. Large shopping and entertainment
centres are close by. Well served by public transport. www.cityhotelbratislava.sk
Kaliniakova 29/A, 831 03 Bratislava. Tel (02) 49 10 96 00. Fax (02) 49 10 96 90. Rooms 25 Road map C4.
Although situated close to the city centre, Hotel Set is in a quiet location. The rooms are sunny and most have a
balcony or small terrace. There are safe deposit boxes in every room, and one room is set aside for disabled guests.
This is a small, cosy hotel with a touch of English elegance. www.hotelset.sk
Slovansk nbreie 15, Devn, 841 10 Bratislava 4. Tel (02) 60 10 25 11. Rooms 12 Road map C4.
This small, congenial, luxurious hotel is situated close to the Devn Castle. Superbly equipped rooms, furnished
according to Feng-shui principles. The hotel has facilities for the disabled; it also offers relaxation facilities. There
is a restaurant, caf and lobby bar. www.hotelhb.sk
Krlovsk dolie 6, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 32 11 28 70. Fax (02) 32 11 28 71. Rooms 70 Road map C4.
This hotel is in a very quiet area above the Danube, though only a 10-minute walk from the city centre. It was
completely renovated in 2010 and the interior and exterior are modern and futuristic. The restaurant serves typical
Slovak dishes, and there is free Wi-Fi. www.sorea.sk
Tatra /h0ez,7
Nm. 1. Mja 5, 811 06 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 27 21 11. Fax (02) 59 27 21 35. Rooms 203 Road map C4.
Tatra is close to Bratislavas city centre, and rooms have beautiful views of the presidential palace. The entire hotel is
adapted for disabled guests, and Wi-Fi is available in all rooms. The hotel is well geared for business travellers and
has large, modern, well-equipped conference rooms. www.hoteltatra.sk
Devin /h0eSz,
Riena 4, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 98 51 11. Fax (02) 54 43 08 58. Rooms 94 Road map C4.
Located in the historic centre of Bratislava, on the banks of the Danube. Comfortable rooms, with state-of-the-art
facilities are furnished in natural materials and wood. All have views of the Danube or the city centre and castle. Plays
host to heads of government during state visits. Superb restaurant (see p391). www.hoteldevin.sk
Bajkalsk 25/A, 825 03 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 48 24 51 11. Fax (02) 48 24 51 12. Rooms 166 Road map C4.
About 5 km (3 miles) from the city centre, this hotel is an ideal place for business travellers as well as holidaymakers.
It offers comfortable, air-conditioned rooms and three restaurants with Slovak, Italian and international cuisine.
There are also relaxation and business centres. www.holidayinn.sk
Marrols /h0:z,
Tobruck 4, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 57 78 46 00. Fax (02) 57 78 46 01. Rooms 54 Road map C4.
Modern, but in retro-style, this is one of the citys most exclusive hotels. Situated close to the exit from the
Old Bridge. A range of beautiful rooms and three spectacular suites. Numerous events organized for the
guests entertainment. Private taxi service. www.marrols.sk
Hviezdoslavovo nm. 3, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 39 00 00. Fax (02) 59 39 00 10. Rooms 168 Road map C4.
Situated at the heart of town, close to the Slovak National Theatre, the Carlton is housed in one of the capitals most
imposing buildings, built in 1837. Each floor is dedicated to a different famous composer, and one suite is named
after Maria Theresa. The Mirror Bar serves fantastic cocktails. www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bratislava
Pribinova 12, 81109 Bratislava. Tel (02) 35 35 00 00. Fax (02) 35 35 00 09. Rooms 209 Road map C4.
The Sheraton has a beautiful location on the Danube, with scenic views. It is next to Eurova Business and
Shopping Centre and a mere 10-minute walk from the city centre. The hotel has two vibrant bars and a stylish
interior. www.sheraton-bratislava.com
WEST SLOVAKIA
Albetnske nm. 1202, 929 01. Tel (031) 557 52 22. Fax (031) 557 57 77. Rooms 70 Road map D4.
A modern hotel in the town centre, Bonbn offers all kinds of recreation and relaxation and a high-quality service.
There are family rooms and apartments as well as single and double rooms. In addition to a restaurant and caf,
there is a summer terrace leading to an outdoor pool. Geothermal baths nearby. www.bonbon.sk
M R tefnika 1, 945 01. Tel (035) 773 13 49. Fax (035) 773 13 51. Rooms 37 Road map D4.
Two-storey hotel in the central part of town. All rooms have an en suite bathroom, TV and refrigerator. There are
two suites for business travellers and one for a family. The restaurant serves Slovak and international cuisine. There is
also a coffee bar and a fast-food outlet. www.hoteleuropa.sk
360 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
sl. armady 2, 934 80. Tel (036) 631 30 64. Fax (036) 622 97 39. Rooms 29 Road map D4.
The hotel has been in business for over 100 years. It is housed in an imposing building in the centre of Levice and has
a beautiful Art Nouveau conference hall. All rooms have en suite bathrooms and some have a balcony. Buffet
breakfast included in the price. www.hotellev.sk
Zmock 1, 901 01. Tel (034) 772 31 61. Tel/Fax (034) 772 31 63. Rooms 73 Road map C4.
This hotel is situated in a quiet area in the centre of Malacky, close to the Prague-Bratislava motorway, making it
convenient for tourists on their way to or from the Czech Republic, Austria and Hungary. All rooms have Wi-Fi.
The hotel restaurant and caf offer a selection of Slovak dishes. www.hotelmalacky.sk
Piesok, 900 01. Tel 905 97 29 28. Rooms 64 Road map C4.
This cottage-style hotel is situated in a wood only 30 minutes drive from Bratislava. It has a garden with an
outdoor swimming pool, a playground for children, an all-weather tennis court and a beach-volleyball court.
www.zochovachata.sk
Farsk 16, 949 01. Tel (037) 692 52 01. Fax (037) 692 52 03. Rooms 46 Road map D4.
This hotel is an oasis of beauty and tranquillity. All the facilities and service aim at ensuring the highest level of
comfort and relaxation. The rooms have been furnished and equipped with great attention to detail. The lovely,
stylish Symfnia restaurant (see p392) serves Slovak and international cuisine. www.hotelcapital.sk
Svtourbnska 27, 949 01. Tel (037) 655 02 89. Fax (037) 655 02 93. Rooms 27 Road map D4.
This modern hotel opened in 1994 on the slopes of Mount Zobor and offers a sweeping panorama of Nitra from
many of its comfortably furnished rooms. It has an excellent restaurant (see p392) with a large selection of wines and
an intimate lounge. Sauna, whirlpool and massages are available. www.zlatyklucik.sk
Pust Chotr 495, Beladice, 951 75. Tel (037) 633 02 35. Fax (037) 633 06 80. Rooms 45 Road map D4.
Housed in a beautiful Neo-Classical manor house built around 1820 and in an adjacent building, this hotel lies 18 km
(11 miles) east of Nitra. Stylish interiors with luxurious furnishings, and a music room and billiard room. Superb
restaurant and lovely coffee bar with summer terrace or an open fire in winter. www.tartuf.sk
Svtoplukova 2, 949 01. Tel (037) 651 23 15. Fax (037) 651 23 18. Rooms 16 Road map D4.
Located in a quiet street in one of the most beautiful parts of the city, this hotel is only 5 minutes drive from the
centre. It has a wellness and fitness centre with a swimming pool and a beautiful view over the centre of the city.
With only 16 rooms, it has the feeling of a villa. Free Internet. www.penzion-hoffer.sk
Budovatelsk 2, 940 60. Tel (035) 642 64 80. Fax (035) 642 61 76. Rooms 25 Road map D4.
Situated just outside the town on the road to Komarno. A pleasant, small and congenial hotel with traditionally and
comfortably furnished rooms and professional service. The restaurant serves excellent seafood dishes and salads (see
p392). www.hubertnz.sk
Pribinova 19, 940 01. Tel (035) 640 44 24. Tel/Fax (035) 640 44 25. Rooms 22 Road map D4.
A luxury three-star hotel situated outside the town centre and surrounded by a park. The rooms are spacious and
well furnished, with en suite bathroom. The hotel prides itself on its excellent restaurant with a wide selection of
alcoholic drinks. In the summer you can enjoy a meal in the shady garden. www.hotelgrandnz.sk
Kollrova 20, 902 01. Tel/Fax (033) 641 24 02. Rooms 37 Road map C4.
Attractively located in the foothills of the Small Carpathians, at the centre of Pezinok, a small town famous for its
wine-making traditions, 18 km (11 miles) northeast of Bratislava. It has a few apartments as well as rooms. The
restaurant occupies a former wine cellar. www.hoteltilia.sk
Kpen Ostrov, 921 29. Tel (033) 775 51 11. Fax (033) 775 77 49. Rooms 455 Road map D3.
A luxurious spa hotel in Slovakias largest health resort. It lies in a park, in the central part of the spa island. It offers a
spa-rehabilitation centre and beauty salon. Guests have free use of Water World, which has indoor and outdoor
pools, whirlpool, water massage and saunas. Golf, tennis and volleyball are all close by. www.spapiestany.sk
Kpen Ostrov, 921 29. Tel (033) 775 61 11. Fax (033) 775 77 39. Rooms 122 Road map D3.
Architecturally the most beautiful hotel in Pietany. The Art Nouveau building is in the southern section of the spa island,
near the thermal springs and sources of mineral waters. It is linked with Irma spa house, allowing the residents to enjoy
thermal baths regardless of the weather. Restaurant serves vegetarian dishes. www.spapiestany.sk
Key to Price Guide see p358 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 361
kpt. Nlepku 1, 921 01. Tel (033) 762 62 51. Fax (033) 772 11 49. Rooms 125 Road map D3.
The hotel stands on the banks of the Vh river, 1.5 km (1 mile) away from the bus and railway stations. Large, bright
rooms are comfortable and provide a magnificent view over the river and Povask Inovec mountain. Free use of
swimming pool and fitness club. www.hotelmagnolia.sk
Slnen jazerSever, 903 01. Tel (02) 45 92 72 55. Fax (02) 45 92 72 77. Rooms 104 Road map C4.
Located amid the spectacular scenery of the Sunny Lakes, 18 km (11 miles) east of Bratislava, the hotel has a good
restaurant (see p392) and excellent sports facilities. Indoor and outdoor pools, tennis and squash courts, table tennis,
beach volleyball and more. Supervised activities for children. www.hotelsenec.sk
Pri Vadai 2, 943 01. Tel (036) 756 01 11. Fax (036) 756 01 01. Rooms 47 Road map D4.
This imposing hotel stands close to the huge Vada thermal baths complex. In addition to hotel rooms, it offers
luxury apartments (for 3 and 4 people) within the spa area, bungalows, a hostel and a restaurant. There is also a
childrens play area. www.vadas.sk
Bratislavsk 52/11, 900 21. Tel (02) 44 97 07 42. Fax (02) 44 97 07 43. Rooms 18 Road map C4.
The hotel is situated in this wine-producing town, at the foot of the Small Carpathians. Modern both inside and out,
it has double rooms with a full range of facilities. It has a restaurant, caf and wine cellar. Local and international
specialities are served. www.hotelmaxim.sk
Kubransk 8, 911 01. Tel (032) 744 16 71. Fax (032) 743 37 87. Rooms 12 Road map D3.
A small pleasant pension with modern furnishings, situated on the outskirts of town. Well-equipped rooms, and
suites, as well as a restaurant, bar and summer terrace all attractively priced. English breakfast is available but not
included in the price. www.penzionevergreen.sk
M R tefanika 2, 911 01. Tel (032) 650 61 11. Fax (032) 650 62 13. Rooms 70 Road map D3.
Established in 1901, the hotel enjoys an attractive location in a superb Art Nouveau building reconstructed in
198794. The rooms are comfortably furnished. Its renowned eateries include the main restaurant (see p392)
and the Art Nouveau caf Sissi. www.hotel-tatra.sk
17 novembra 14, 914 51. Tel (032) 655 29 81. Fax (032) 655 28 24. Rooms 61 Road map D3.
The hotel is in the centre of this spa resort in extensive leafy grounds. All rooms have en suite bathrooms and many
have been refurbished to a high standard. Most of the hotel balconies afford a breathtaking view. Facilities include
rehabilitation treatment and thermal baths. www.hotelflora.sk
T G Masaryka 3, 914 51. Tel (032) 651 6000. Rooms 90 Road map D3.
This is a large hotel on the promenade, offering comfortable, well-kept, plainly furnished rooms and suites.
The rooms have balconies with a lovely view of the pedestrianized Spa Promenade. Massage, sauna and various
therapies are available. www.hotel-slovakia.sk
T G Masaryka 2, 914 51. Tel (032) 655 10 28. Fax (032) 655 10 29. Rooms 10 Road map D3.
An imposing historical building houses this well-equipped and popular family-owned hotel. The facilities include a
conference room and a wellness centre with sauna and masseurs. The restaurant offers a wide range of Slovak and
international specialities. www.hotel-margit.sk
Jeruzalemsk 3, 917 01. Tel (033) 535 42 16. Fax (033) 535 42 17. Rooms 14 Road map D4.
Situated in the town centre, in a peaceful street close to the Archbishops Palace and St Nicholas Cathedral, this
hotel has 11 en suite rooms and three suites, all comfortably furnished. The restaurant is open only to residents.
A fitness centre can be used free of charge by guests. www.penzionumami.sk
Kapitulsk 12, 917 01. Tel (033) 592 41 11. Fax (033) 592 41 15. Rooms 23 Road map D4.
The hotel enjoys an attractive location in a smartly painted historic building, close to the city walls. Stylishly furnished
rooms and suites include air-conditioning and Internet access. The restaurant and bar offer a large selection of Slovak
and international dishes, plus a good selection of wines. www.hoteldream.sk
ladovncka 15 23, 917 01. Tel (033) 591 79 11. Fax (033) 591 79 22. Rooms 30 Road map D4.
This hotel was designed by Slovakias top firm of hotel architects. It has a quiet location near the historic centre of
Trnava and easy access to the ViennaBratislavailina motorway. The rooms are comfortable and spacious with free
Internet. Free secure parking. www.hotelprestige.sk
362 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
CENTRAL SLOVAKIA
vermova 32, 974 01. Tel (048) 413 08 08. Fax (048) 423 11 91. Rooms 107 Road map E3.
A business-oriented hotel, the Dixon has good quality rooms with plain decor, plus one apartment. Guests can make
use of the superb tennis courts (13 outdoor courts; 3 indoors for winter use) and squash courts. A swimming pool
and sauna are also available, plus a games room with pool and table football. www.dixon.sk
achtika, 974 01. Tel (048) 414 19 11. Fax (048) 414 56 70. Rooms 47 Road map E3.
The hotel is set amid beautiful mountain scenery, in the Low Tatras, at the very heart of the skiing region. It is about
10 km (6 miles) from Bansk Bystrica. There are both rooms and apartments. The hotel restaurant (see p393) offers
Slovak and international cuisine. Modern sports hall; horse riding. Breakfast not included. www.sachticka.sk
Nm. Slobody 2, 974 00. Tel (048) 414 41 41. Fax (048) 414 43 24. Rooms 128 Road map E3.
Situated in the town centre, this modern, high-rise hotel has been in business for 35 years and provides excellent,
professional service with pleasant rooms. A good restaurant (see p393) provides a wide selection of Slovak and
international dishes, with an outdoor terrace in summer. www.hotellux.sk
Palrikova 1, 969 01. Tel (045) 691 39 92. Fax (048) 692 12 62. Rooms 16 Road map D4.
Conveniently located in the historic town centre in an imposing corner building is this welcoming hotel. It offers
luxury rooms and suites, a restaurant, a wine bar with a wide and interesting selection of wines and a caf.
www.hotelsalamander.sk
Hurbanovo nmestie 2, 972 01. Tel (046) 518 51 00. Fax 540 25 82. Rooms 67 Road map D3.
The hotel belongs to the European Wellness chain. It stands in the town centre, by the castle walls (its name means
under the castle). A large variety of rooms are available, all pleasantly furnished. The hotel prides itself on individual
service. www.hotelpodzamkom.sk
Jnoikov 1301/24, 972 01. Tel (046) 518 30 10. Fax (046) 540 27 93. Rooms 16 Road map D3.
A modern hotel with its own Aquacentre (pool, hydro-massage, sauna, solarium). The comfortable rooms and
apartments offer satellite TV, broadband Internet connection and minibar. The popular restaurant Kontesa de Jean
Ville serves international and Slovak cuisine, accompanied by top-quality wines. www.kaskada.sk
032 51. Tel (044) 559 16 61. Fax (044) 559 16 64. Rooms 132 Road map E3.
The hotel is located in one of the most beautiful valleys in the Low Tatras (Nzke Tatry), to the south of Liptovsk
Mikul. Close by are stunning karst caves and Slovakias largest skiing centre, Jasn. An excellent place for families
who enjoy all types of sport and wish to relax in comfortable conditions. www.sorea.sk
Gerlachov 302. Tel (052) 478 08 11. Fax (052) 478 08 05. Rooms 39 Road map E3.
The hotel enjoys an amazing location, 900 m (3,000 ft) above sea level, in the impressive setting of the High Tatras,
overlooking their highest peak, Gerlachovsk. Superb facilities include an outdoor and an indoor pool, fishing pond,
horse riding, and a babysitting service. A good choice of food is available (see p393). www.hotel-hubert.sk
Veternick 117/19, 967 01. Tel (045) 674 27 09. Rooms 27 Road map D3.
The Veternk hostel is situated on the outskirts of Kremnica. It has a restaurant, bar and summer terrace overlooking
the gardens. There is a thermal spa just a 5-minute walk from the hostel, with two swimming pools and a sauna.
www.hotelveternik.sk
J Horvtha 910/50, 967 01. Tel (045) 674 37 67. Fax (045) 674 37 88. Rooms 35 Road map D3.
This golf-orientated hotel offers bright and comfortable rooms. Golf course and golf lessons. Many other sports are
available, winter and summer, including snowboarding, skiing, ice-skating, mountain biking, tennis and basketball.
www.golfer.sk
Starojnska 25, 032 03. Tel (044) 526 33 29. Fax (044) 528 04 60. Rooms 15 Road map E3.
Penzion Una is situated in a village, near a thermal spring in the Jnska valley, one of the most beautiful spots in the
low Tatras. This small family pension has an excellent kitchen and its own wellness centre with sauna and swimming
pool, and an outdoor open fireplace. www.penzionuna.sk
Key to Price Guide see p358 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 363
032 03. Tel (044) 520 81 00. Fax (044) 520 89 03. Rooms 118 Road map E3.
The hotel lies amid mountain scenery at the mouth of the Jnska valley. It belongs to the Slovak hotel chain Sorea.
Restaurant, bar, bistro and espresso bar. Indoor pool, plus several outdoor thermal pools (about 28C/82F). Plenty of
other sports facilities, including skiing, make it an ideal base year round. www.sorea.sk
1. mja 117, 031 01. Tel (044) 552 29 11. Fax (044) 557 06 36. Rooms 52 Road map E3.
The hotel is in the western part of Liptovsk Mikul, the best-known town in the foothills of the Low Tatras and the
capital of the Liptov region. It offers basic, comfortable rooms in a small high-rise building. Thermal baths and skiing
areas are nearby. www.klar.sk
Rztock 21, 031 05. Tel (044) 547 78 512. Road map E3.
A very child-friendly holiday village 2 km (1 mile) west of Liptovsk Mikul, adjacent to the Aquapark Tatralandia.
Bungalows and apartments are in different styles in different themed areas, such as the Fishing Cove, Liptov Village,
Indian Settlement and Scouts Camp. Comfortable accommodation and great facilities. www.tatralandia.sk
Hrdinov SNP 350, 036 01. Tel (043) 422 00 16. Tel/Fax (043) 422 00 15. Rooms 24 Road map D3.
Located on the outskirts of town, amid the Mal Fatra range, this is a welcoming hotel offering high-quality service.
The rooms are cosily furnished. The restaurant serves gourmet food and has a summer terrace with mountain views.
The caf has an open fire. www.grandis.sk
Oravsk Podzmok 5, 027 41. Tel (043) 908 307 110. Rooms 5 Road map E3.
This family pension is situated just below the scenic Oravsk Castle. It offers cosy accommodation in a family
atmosphere. There is a patisserie, and the hotels stylish bistro restaurant Pod Lampon is excellent.
www.ubytovaniepodhradom.sk
Podbansk 18, 032 42. Tel (052) 471 01 11. Fax (052) 449 01 33. Rooms 128 Road map E3.
In the Western Tatras, in a valley dominated by the peak of Kriv, this is one of Slovakias biggest and most
exclusive hotels. Rooms are large and comfortable. It has a complex of steam and water baths, plus good sports
facilities including tennis courts, bowling alley, and a gym. www.hotelpermon.sk
Antona Bernolka 1, 034 01. Tel (044) 431 31 11. Fax (044) 431 31 75. Rooms 45 Road map E3.
Conveniently located in the historic town centre, the hotel occupies the building of a former cultural centre that was
founded in 1928. The building was thoroughly modernized in 2003, but its stylish interiors have been preserved with
many rooms and facilities around a glass-roofed atrium. www.hotelkultura.sk
976 02. Tel (048) 419 92 00. Fax (048) 419 92 03. Rooms 21 Road map E3.
This modern, high-standard chalet-style hotel is within fairly easy reach of Bansk Bystrica (11 km/7 miles) and
Donovale (10 km/6 miles). Many of the homely rooms have sloping roofs and great views. Three restaurants,
including fish and pizza specialities. It provides sauna, massage and swimming pools.
062 01. Tel (052) 442 50 60. Fax (052) 442 50 63. Rooms 75 Road map E3.
Located in Hrebeinok, beside the terminus of the funicular railway that runs from Star Smokovec, this hotel can only
be accessed by funicular. Rooms are comfortable, with satellite TV and balconies. An excellent base for exploring the
central region of the High Tatras on foot or on skis. www.sorea.sk
Vysok Tatry, 062 01. Tel (052) 478 00 00. Fax (052) 472 2157. Rooms 79 Road map E3.
Situated at the centre of Star Smokovec, at the foot of Slavkovsk peak. A hotel with traditions (it has been in
business since 1904), it occupies a romantic Bavarian-style building. Rooms and facilities are luxurious and there is
great attention to detail. Excellent restaurant (see p394). www.grandhotel.sk
059 85. Tel (052) 449 25 91. Fax (052) 449 25 90. Rooms 159 Road map E3.
The most beautifully located hotel in the High Tatras, the Patria stands above trbsk Lake at 1,355 m (4,445 ft)
above sea level. Surrounded by wild scenery, it offers comfortable rooms, a good choice of food (see p394),
recreation facilities and a full range of services. www.hotelpatria.sk
Tatransk Lomnica 202. Tel (052) 446 70 92. Fax (052) 446 70 82. Rooms 24 Road map E3.
This hotel and camping resort has a scenic location in the high Tatras. It has large grounds with service centres,
a camping and caravan site and 14 cottages, each for 6 people. There is a restaurant serving traditional Slovak and
international cuisine and a koliba (chalet, cottage) with Gypsy music. www.hoteltatranec.com
364 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
059 60. Tel (052) 446 79 41. Fax (052) 446 74 95. Rooms 96 Road map E3.
A spectacular building in the form of a turreted castle, the hotel stands against the backdrop of the highest peaks of
the High Tatras, crowned by Lomnick peak. Rich traditions, stylish interiors and sophisticated cuisine. The grand
lounge and main restaurant (see p394) are particularly imposing in size and decor. www.ghpraha.sk
Bel, 013 05. Tel (041) 569 30 35. Fax (041) 569 30 39. Rooms 28 Road map D3.
This modern hotel stands 22 km (14 miles) east of ilina at the foot of the Mal Fatra range. Tastefully furnished
interiors; one room and one suite adapted for the disabled. Facilities for an active holiday, including tennis courts
and a fitness club. www.hotelbranica.sk
Sldkoviova 1, 010 01. Tel (041) 564 32 65. Fax (041) 564 32 66. Rooms 41 Road map D3.
A hotel that has been in business for 90 years, the Grand occupies a historic building refurbished in 2001, standing
in a quiet part of ilinas Old Town. Stylish interiors, some rooms with air conditioning and en suite bathrooms. It is
just about possible to see the main square from some rooms. Private garage. www.hotelgrand.sk
EAST SLOVAKIA
Mihlov 2503, 085 01. Tel (054) 472 84 04. Fax (054) 472 84 09. Rooms 25 Road map F3.
This small, congenial, comfortable hotel stands in a quiet suburban estate, 5 km (3 miles) south of Bardejov. It is
particularly recommended for families. All rooms have bathrooms and satellite TVs, and no-smoking rooms are
available; suites with balconies have a magnificent view over the surrounding area. www.bellevuehotel.sk
MUDr. Alexandra 24, 060 01. Tel (052) 452 40 51. Fax (052) 452 40 53. Rooms 33 Road map E3.
A small hotel situated in an old building in the historic town centre. The interiors are bright and modern and staff are
welcoming. The well-regarded hotel restaurant specializes in game dishes and its walls are hung with a variety of
hunting trophies. www.hotelclubkezmarok.sk
Jiskrova 3, 040 01. Tel (055) 622 59 03. Fax (055) 622 59 18. Rooms 12 Road map F3.
A small congenial hotel located east of the Old Town, offering traditionally furnished rooms with telephone, satellite
TV, minibar and comfortable en suite bathrooms. The facilities include a pool table, bar and restaurant.
www.alessandria.sk
Lfflerova 1, 040 01. Tel (055) 799 43 21. Fax (055) 633 17 17. Rooms 35 Road map F3.
Aimed at visitors who favour peace and a family atmosphere, this small hotel is on the east of the Old Town. Attractive,
tastefully furnished rooms create a feeling of utter comfort. The Dlia restaurant, in addition to Slovak and international
cuisine, offers a wide selection of vegetarian dishes. Sauna, hydro-massage. www.hoteldalia.sk
Hlavn 101, 040 01. Tel (055) 720 37 20. Fax (055) 720 37 27. Rooms 23 Road map F3.
At the centre of Koice, this is a newly modernized hotel offering simply and comfortably furnished rooms and suites.
All have en suite bathrooms, satellite TV, video, hi-fi and refrigerator. The Ambassador has a popular caf with
outdoor seating in summer on Koices atmospheric main street (see p343). www.ambassador.sk
Nmestie Majstra Pavla 26, 054 01. Tel (053) 451 23 72. Fax (053) 451 22 55. Rooms 32 Road map E3.
An establishment in the historic setting of Levoas town square, in a building that has a history going back to the
Gothic era; it was modernized in the 1990s. The rooms are bright and airy, and all have en suite bathrooms.
www.arkada.sk
Nmestie Majstra Pavla 55, 054 01. Tel (053) 451 29 43. Fax (053) 451 44 86. Rooms 23 Road map E3.
The hotel is in a historic building, at the heart of Levoas Old Town. The buildings history goes back to the 14th century,
and as early as the 16th century it was already an inn for travelling merchants. It was thoroughly refurbished in 1993.
Besides restaurant and wine bar, the hotel boasts a terrace and an atrium with a fountain. www.hotelstela.sk
Andyho Warhola 195/28, 068 01. Tel (057) 732 13 07. Fax (057) 732 29 94. Rooms 54 Road map F3.
This central hotel is close to the Warhol Family Museum of Modern Art. The original 1978 building was thoroughly
modernized in 2002. Danova ski centre is nearby, and it provides an excellent base for exploring the nearby wooden
Orthodox churches. www.eurohotel.sk
Key to Price Guide see p358 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 365
Mnohelova 825, 058 01. Tel (052) 716 11 11. Fax (052) 772 11 20. Rooms 127 Road map E3.
This central hotel was opened in 1991. Rooms are furnished in a modern style. The eating places and sports facilities
are excellent, and there is a nightclub. It offers a wide choice of additional attractions, including scenic flights over
the Tatras mountains. www.hotelsatel.sk
portov 1397/1, 058 01. Tel (052) 785 12 22. Fax (052) 785 12 20. Rooms 41 Road map E3.
The hotel is part of a superb aquapark with thermal waters. Large, elegant rooms with stylish decor on a seasonal
theme. The hotel guarantees relaxing conditions and welcomes families. Facilities include an Olympic-size swimming
pool, fitness centre, horse riding and bicycle trails. www.aquacity.sk
Friovce 4. Tel 917 430 201. Fax (051) 772 10 29. Rooms 19 Road map F3.
Situated in the beautiful countryside of the Upper ari region in the Friovce village, with its ancient little church, is
this restored gem of Slovak Renaissance architecture. The mansion has been open since 2002 and has a wonderful
setting adjacent to a park. www.kastielfricovce.sk
eleznin 1900 Vek ari. 082 21. Tel (051) 747 04 22. Fax (051) 646 04 10. Rooms 17 Road map F3.
Guests can choose from hotel-type accommodation or traditional wooden houses. All rooms are non-smoking.
There is a wellness centre with a traditional village atmosphere, a sauna, massage treatments and a pool. Indoor
and outdoor sports facilities and equipment rental, including bicycles, are on offer too. www.sarispark.sk
Hlavn 67, 080 01. Tel (051) 773 11 86. Fax (051) 773 10 92. Rooms 18 Road map F3.
Small congenial hotel occupying a historic building, right at the centre of Preov Old Town. Clean, bright
and spacious rooms are tastefully furnished and well equipped. It has a restaurant and there is a wine bar
in the cellar.
Nmestie Legionrov 2, 080 01. Tel (051) 772 27 41. Fax (051) 773 21 34. Rooms 61 Road map F3.
Conveniently located in the historic town centre, the hotel has been operating since 1951; the building was
modernized in 2000. Well-equipped rooms with bathrooms offer comfort and a pleasant atmosphere. Enjoyable
food at the restaurant and caf. www.hotelduklapresov.sk
Nmestie bankov 17, 048 01. Tel (058) 732 81 86. Rooms 17 Road map E3.
An elegant hotel with a famous restaurant. It occupies a historic, reconstructed burghers house standing in
the town square. The rooms and suites are furnished to a high standard and have showers and telephones.
In the summer there is seating on the square for a drink or light lunch. www.ciernyorol.sk
afrikova 52, 048 01. Tel 058) 788 60 40. Rooms 62 Road map E3.
Conveniently located right at the centre of this mining town, the hotel offers rooms and suites with en suite
bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. The amenities include restaurant, caf and bar. The Mining Museum is close
by. A good base for visiting the Slovensk kras. www.hotel-kras.sk
tefnikovo nm. 2, 052 01. Tel (053) 442 22 41. Fax (053) 442 22 43. Rooms 39 Road map E3.
This high-rise hotel at the centre of the historic capital of the Spi region has been modernized to a high standard.
Large, pleasant rooms decorated in a stylish, contemporary way are suitable for individual visitors, as well as for
families with children. The restaurant (see p395) offers a huge choice. www.hotel-metropol.sk
Spisk Kapitula 15, 053 04. Tel (053) 450 21 11. Rooms 18 Road map E3.
Situated in the former ecclesiastic capital of Spi, the hotel occupies the restored building of the former canonry, part
of the complex on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Close by are the ruins of Spi Castle. The rooms are beautifully
decorated and the restaurant superb. www.hotelkolping.sk
059 60. Tel (052) 446 78 81. Fax (052) 446 72 87. Rooms 41 Road map E3.
Located in between Poprad and the Western Tatras, the Horizont has a lovely panoramic view of the mountains.
Rooms are well appointed. The facilities include a relaxation centre with sauna and hydro-massage, and a tennis
court. www.hotelhorizon.sk
Sovietskych hrdinov 221, 089 01. Tel (054) 752 33 88. Fax (054) 500 12 37. Rooms 10 Road map F3.
A small congenial hotel with a friendly atmosphere in leafy surroundings. Rooms and facilities are basic but clean and
adequate. Provides a good base for exploring the surrounding area. The Museum of the Battle of Dukla and an open-
air museum of traditional architecture are nearby.
366 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
WHERE TO EAT
RESERVATIONS
MEAT
VEGETABLES
What to Drink
Beer is the most celebrated drink in
both the Czech and Slovak
Republics. But perhaps nowhere
else in Europe is alcohol so freely
available and in so many forms.
In both countries you can buy it not
Slovak beer logo only in late-night shops and in almost
all eating places, but even, for
example, in railway station kiosks and buffets; these
often serve wine and spirits alongside beer. Yet the best
way to enjoy a drink is to join the locals for a glass or
a tankard of beer in one of the many inns known as
hospoda in Czech and hostinec in Slovak. You could
also step into a beer hall or a wine bar where you can
sample a wider range of drinks, and these are often Vinoteka sv. Urbana a famous
accompanied by food. wine shop in Bratislava
BEER (PIVO)
Beer
classification
Beer garden by the Vltava river in Prague
FAVOURITE BEERS
WINES
Rulandsk Biele, a White wine from Czech wines in boxes decorated with
white wine from Moravia (Czech Art Nouveau paintings by Alfons
Slovakia Republic) Mucha
SOFT DRINKS
Malostransk Beseda / ||
Malostransk nmst 21, Praha 1. Tel 257 409 112. Map 2 C2.
This traditional restaurant is located on the ground floor of a historic building. Try one of their forgotten Czech
specialities such as leg of cockerel cooked in a wine-plum sauce, served with fried potato dumplings. Enjoy a cold,
local beer on the outside terrace in the summer.
Nebozzek 7 ||||
Petnsk sady 411, Praha 1. Tel 257 315 329. Map 2 D5.
In spring and summer the particularly popular feature of this famous restaurant in Petn Park is its patio with a
magnificent view over Prague. The interior is snug and elegant. Menu includes seafood, steaks, Chinese food and
Czech cuisine. Mouthwatering desserts, such as stuffed pear with ricotta cheese mousse.
Peklo /z ||||
Maltzsk nmst 11, Praha 1. Tel 257 530 318. Map 2 E4.
There has been a restaurant on this spot since 1543. Even back then U Mali received high acclaim: Emperor
Rudoph IIs food tasters awarded it three royal stars. Expect the highest quality traditional and contemporary French
cuisine, including a pricey Chteaubriand. The elegant decor is still worthy of royal guests.
Draickho nmst 4, Praha 12. Tel 257 288 888. Map 2 E3.
The dining room At the Three Ostriches is reminiscent of a Bavarian hunting lodge, but the food is cooked in
genuine Czech style. Adventurous diners may wish to try the ostrich specialities of stew and roulade Prague style
but you can also settle for something more traditional.
Bohemia Bagel :7 |
Dhaba Beas |
Kolkovna /7 ||
V Kolkovn 8, Praha 1, 110 00. Tel 224 819 701. Fax 224 819 700. Map 3 C3.
Very good, authentic Czech dishes and excellent beer served from giant kegs combine the best attributes of a great
Czech pub. The waiters can be a little standoffish, especially if you turn up on a crowded night without a reservation.
The downstairs area is completely non-smoking.
Tnsk 10, 110 00 Praha 1 Star Msto Tel 222 315 165. Map 3 C3.
This reasonably priced restaurant, situated just a one-minute walk from Old Town Square, offers dishes from the
Slovak and Czech national cuisines. Traditional dishes include Haluky (a kind of gnocchi), pirohy (pies), goose and
duck. You can enjoy the best Slovak wines in the friendly atmosphere.
Dun 9 U Sv. Ducha 3/9, 110 00, Praha 1. Tel 222 313 049. Map 3 B3.
This two-storey restaurant can accommodate up to 150 guests, with additional seating for 35 guests in the garden
on warm days. There are plasma screens, a sound system and Wi-Fi. The menu offers both Czech and international
cuisine with grilled specialities prepared by chef Martin Dudde.
U Provaznice /7 ||
Dinitz / |||
Betlmsk nmst 5A, Praha 1. Tel 222 221 443. Map 3 B4.
This hidden gem is tucked away in a warren of tunnels and arches, reached through a courtyard near the Bethlehem
Chapel. The servings are hearty and, unusually for an inexpensive Prague eatery, the menu includes a worthwhile
vegetarian selection.
Karolny Svtl 21, Praha 1. Tel 222 220 008. Map 3 A4.
Arched ceilings, sepia prints and old Chinese porcelain all evoke a gentler era in this warm, friendly restaurant. The
menu is inspired by the famous of yesteryear; for example, you can order a Marlene Dietrich (stuffed avocado with
whipped Roquefort and marzipan) or an Al Capone (roast chicken leg with hot salsa and papaya).
Staromstsk nmst 19, Praha 1. Tel 224 213 015. Map 3 C3.
Housed in a medieval building on Staromstsk nmst square, this long-standing popular inn is famous for its
classic Czech cuisine and Pilsner beer. The menu includes steaks, salads and home-made desserts. Dine inside or,
during the summer months, choose a table overlooking the square.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 375
Smetanovo nbe 195, Praha 1. Tel 224 097 100. Map 3 A4.
A visit to this restaurant may turn out to be an unforgettable experience due to its stunning views of the Charles
Bridge. It serves modern and traditional Czech dishes and international cuisine and has a great wine list. There
is also a live music bar, and an Irish pub.
Pravda /z ||||
Ariadne /hzf ||
Himalaya /z7 ||
Jma / ||
Nrodni tda 20, Praha 1. Tel 224 930 949. Map 3 B5.
An excellent place for breakfast, Caf Louvre has been in business since the early 1900s. As well as a full restaurant
menu of Czech and European fare, they have an excellent selection of cakes and pastries. Theres also a smart billiard
room on the premises.
Vclavsk nmst 25, Praha 1. Tel 224 215 387. Map 4 D5.
This is a classic Art Nouveau restaurant, though slightly shabby around the edges. It has been extremely popular for
years, particularly among Pragues writers. Its small terrace is one of the nicest in town. The food is average, but peo-
ple come for the ambience and company.
U Pinkas / |||
Jungmannovo nmst 16, Praha 1. Tel 221 111 150. Map 3 C5.
This inexpensive, good-quality beer hall has been here since 1843. The food is simple yet tasty, and therefore the
place is popular, particularly during lunch hours. It is arranged on three levels: the basement houses a traditional
beer hall, the ground floor is a bar serving light meals and snacks, and above it is a traditional restaurant.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 377
Aromi : ||||
Jindisk v, Jindisk ulice, Praha 1. Tel 224 220 009. Map 4 D4.
Zvonice is located on the seventh and eighth floors of the tower called Jindisk ve that was re-opened after two
years of renovation. Care has been taken with the decor to preserve the towers heritage. There is a good selection
of salads and traditional Czech dishes on the menu.
PRAGUE ENVIRONS
U Holan f ||
U Maran /zf ||
CENTRAL BOHEMIA
Na Ostrove 816, 266 01. Tel 311 713 100. Road map B2.
Modern interior with light-coloured walls contrasting with the dark woodwork and furniture, making an excellent setting
for the meals served in here. Among many interesting dishes, the ones particularly worth recommending are asparagus
cocktail, onion soup, beef in wine sauce with croquettes and salad, and pancakes with ice cream.
Zmek Dob, 263 01. Tel 318 520 525. Road map B3.
Situated in Dob Castle, this restaurant serves Czech and European cuisine, including an enormous mixed grill (beef
sirloin, pork loin, turkey, potatoes roasted with cheese, rice and thin pancakes). On tap is Staropramen beer, light
and dark. There is also a caf.
Karltejn 13, 267 18. Tel 311 681 465. Road map B2.
This hotel restaurant is furnished in traditional style. Koruna offers Bohemian dishes that are not particularly
sophisticated, but really tasty. Especially good are scrambled eggs with caviar, onion soup, mixed grill with chips or
rice, and blueberry tart.
Karltejn 173, 267 18. Tel 311 513 496. Road map B2.
The restaurant stands only a few paces from the castle walls. It has three rooms and three terraces, plus a beer-
garden with a grill. Traditional Bohemian cuisine including fish, poultry and grilled food. It also puts on knights
tournaments, traditional dance shows and fireworks.
KOLN U ostrova 7f |
Sokolsk 10, 280 02. Tel 321 720 293. Road map B2.
This restaurant is scenically located on an island in the Labe river (the Elbe). Traditional Czech meat dishes, grilled and
spit-roasted, are cooked to order. Roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut is considered the most popular Czech
dish. Budvar beer is served. The summer garden offers a lovely view of the river.
KOLN U Rabna / |
Karoliny Svtl 151, 280 02. Tel 321 724 463. Road map B2.
A restaurant in a welcoming pension. It has an interesting though ascetic interior and serves Bohemian, Moravian
and Italian cuisine; fish and steaks are particularly tasty. Highly professional service and congenial atmosphere. There
is also a wine bar.
Nmst Narodniho odboje 48, 284 01. Tel 327 514 151. Road map B2.
The restaurant specializes in Bohemian and Chinese cuisine; it serves mainly snacks, fish, vegetarian food and salads.
An excellent place for family celebrations and large social gatherings, it also has a child-friendly section of the menu
with smaller portions.
Rakova 8, 284 01. Tel 327 512 248. Road map B2.
This large, traditional beer hall/restaurant situated in the town centre offers flamboyant Bohemian cuisine (such
as baked ostrich steak in coconut cream sauce with garlic-parmesan potatoes), a large selection of desserts, plus
vodkas, wines and seven brands of draught beer. Guests are often treated to live music.
Husova 140, 284 01. Tel 327 512 855. Road map B2.
The restaurant is set in a 15th-century Gothic house and serves traditional Bohemian cuisine. Prazdroj and Gambrinus
beer from Plze. The chefs specials include Vepov zek pana Bohka (Mr Boheks pork chops) and Malnsk
biftek (minute steak).
28 ijna 511, 284 01. Tel 327 514 618. Road map B2.
A pleasant restaurant located on the ground floor of the hotel of the same name. Excellent Czech cuisine and
professional service. Large selection of Moravian wines. A garden with grill opens at the back of the hotel in the
summer, and there is also sunny outdoor seating at the front.
Zvonask 286, 284 01. Tel 327 511 516. Road map B2.
Restaurant belonging to a small hotel situated in the town centre. It specializes in Bohemian cuisine, but the
menu also includes a choice of international dishes. A long list of local and foreign wines is on offer. The decor
is plain and slightly rustic.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 379
Hotel Ludmila, 276 01. Tel 315 622 419. Road map B2.
Simple, modern interior tastefully decorated in pastel shades, wood and rustic brickwork. Dishes worth
recommending include prawn cocktail, garlic soup, chicken with apricot and cheese, and chocolate fondue with
fruit. Plenty of drinks and snacks to choose from, too.
MLNK U atlavy h ||
Nmst Mru 30, 276 01. Tel 315 625 548. Road map B2.
The restaurant is conveniently situated in the town square. On offer is a good range of Bohemian and European
cuisine; the pizzas and the seafood dishes in particular are well worth a try. Draught beer and many other kinds of
alcohol and spirits.
Staromstsk nmst 6, 293 01. Tel 326 326 222. Road map B2.
This friendly restaurant serving hearty food is conveniently situated in the town square. The menu is straightforward
and consists mainly of meat dishes, with a large selection of steaks and sauces. Budvar beer is on tap. A selection of
wines and spirits.
Pod koupalitm 881, 293 06. Tel 326 721 920. Road map B2.
This hotel restaurant, with its modern decor and wooden furniture, favours European cuisine. Large and varied menu
includes black caviar on toast with lemon, home-made goulash, grilled breast of chicken with herbs, apple pie with
ice cream and whipped cream.
Vinina 1343, 293 01. Tel 326 734 054. Road map B2.
A restaurant serving an appetizing variety of Mediterranean dishes. The setting is interesting partly within the rock
under the church. Excellent seafood and salads. Very tasty Parma ham with melon, and a refreshing tzatziki. Good
selection of wines.
Arnoldova 91, 295 01. Tel 326 773 091. Road map B2.
This good-value and serviceable restaurant is centrally situated in Mnichovo Hradit, close to the castle. Inside, the
walls are hung with old views of castles. It distinguishes itself by its friendly service, tasty Czech cuisine (over 150
different dishes are on offer) and attractive prices.
PODBRADY Balada h ||
Jiho nmst 7/2, 290 01. Tel 325 610 361. Road map B2.
Furnished in traditional Bohemian style, this restaurant serves a menu dominated by European and local cuisine.
Try traditional Czech dishes, such as fried Camembert served with cranberries. Hermelin is a local cheese (similar to
Camembert) from Sedlany that is prepared as part of various dishes. A large selection of beers is available.
Nmst T G Masaryka 143, 261 01. Tel 318 628 007. Road map B3.
The interior of this hotel restaurant, with its rich stucco wall decoration, resembles a palace banqueting hall, but the
food served in here is simple, unsophisticated and extremely tasty. The dishes worth recommending include small
vegetarian pancakes, broth with noodles, fried fish fillets, and fruits of the forest goblet.
Nmst T G Masaryka 98, 261 01. Tel 318 623 245. Road map B3.
A lively restaurant with 150 seats, that mainly caters for families with children. It has a decent menu, specializing
in fish, poultry and pork dishes. The fruit goblet is worth ordering. In summer some tables are set out on the
pleasant terrace.
Nerudova 35, 413 01. Tel 416 837 346. Road map B3.
A traditional restaurant with a long history located right in the town centre. Good basic Bohemian food is on offer;
set menus and dishes la carte. Beer is well kept in the cellar, and there is a choice of Staropramen beers as well as
several others; Czech wines. Popular with locals.
Masarykovo nmst 114, 274 01. Tel 312 527 110. Road map B2.
Restaurant in a beautiful atrium, with a glass roof providing additional illumination; lots of natural greenery. Bohemian
and international cuisine. Typical, tasty dishes include salade Nioise, potato soup with wild mushrooms and croutons,
or Wiener schnitzel with potatoes and lemon.
380 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
SOUTH BOHEMIA
erven Lhota 6, 378 21 Kardaova eice. Tel 384 384 305. Road map B3.
This restaurant, situated directly opposite the erven Lhota Castle, offers light meals of international cuisine, all
served with an imaginative variety of sauces. Here you can order vegetarian dishes, as well as delicious fish and meat
dishes.
Hroznova 25, 370 01. Tel 387 318 171. Road map B3.
A hotel restaurant whose interior resembles an old inn. The food is good, straightforward and traditional, in keeping
with the decor: cheese with olives, beef stew with fried dumplings, pork fillet with pepper and fried potatoes, and
cinnamon cake with cream.
Krajinska 41, 370 01. Tel 386 350 999. Road map B3.
A new, stylish restaurant and pizzeria right in the town centre in the Hotel Ztkv Dm. Sensational salads, excellent
pizzas and pastas, but also steaks. A separate area has been set aside for non-smokers, and there are tables outside
in warm weather.
esk 66, 370 01. Tel 387 420 560. Road map B3.
Restaurant/beer-hall serving Staropramen and Hoegaarden beers, as well as several Belgian brands. Divided into two
parts, the main bar and the pub. The chefs specials include grilled chicken legs and neck of pork. A large terrace
overlooks the river.
Radnin 11, 370 01. Tel 386 354 121. Road map B3.
The interior of this modern hotel restaurant is hung with tapestries and paintings. It serves international cuisine with
strong French accents: onion soup with cheese, roast halibut with rosemary, hot raspberries with raspberry
ice cream.
Knsk 330/31, 370 01. Tel 733 609 225. Road map B3.
The emphasis here is on modern cuisine with unusual combinations, making for a gourmet experience in the
intimate atmosphere of a medieval burghers house. The wine cellar offers 50 different wines, and Budweiser
Budvar is also served. Pets are welcome.
Nmst Premysla Otakara II 28, 370 01. Tel 381 601 601. Road map B3.
Hotel restaurant situated on the ground floor, with a charming view of the town square. Stylish interior with a
historic ceiling. The menu is dominated by Bohemian dishes, such as potato soup and roast neck of pork with
sauerkraut and dumplings but the international cuisine on offer is also excellent.
Nmst Svornosti 12, 381 01. Tel 380 772 563. Road map B3.
The restaurant of the Old Inn Hotel offers excellent Bohemian food grilled on a wood fire. It is set in the medieval
13th-century catacombs. Draught beers, light and dark, including some from a local brewery. Large selection of
other alcoholic drinks.
Soukenick 42, 381 01. Tel 380 711 977. Road map B3.
The restaurant is in the historic city centre, close to the town square. It is set in one of the oldest buildings in town,
dating from 1460. The dining room features an old wooden ceiling. A stylish wine bar is located in the cellar.
Particularly worth recommending is the garlic soup with cheese served in a hollowed-out loaf.
Lineck 42, 381 01. Tel 380 712 852. Road map B3.
One of several Mexican chain restaurants in the Czech Republic, it occupies a 15th-century building with Mexican
interior decor and South American cuisine. The food is tasty and hearty and the atmosphere lively and very child
friendly. Salsa sounds in the background.
Latrn 77, 381 01. Tel 380 720 177. Road map B3.
The solemn atmosphere of the interior, with monastery vaults filled with warm light, creates an unforgettable impression.
Added to this is an international cuisine with French accents, such as asparagus in milk with rosemary dumplings, wild
Norwegian salmon fillet in Barnaise sauce, hot marzipan, and strawberries in vanilla sauce.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 381
Nmst Svornosti 11, 381 01. Tel 380 712 310. Road map B3.
A witty, unconventional interior with an open hearth and walls decorated with a relief of the town square. From its
large selection of Bohemian and international dishes it is worth trying tomatoes stuffed with cheese salad, potato
soup, Wiener schnitzel, and tart with berries and whipped cream.
Jeminsk 125/4, 377 01. Tel 777 996 666. Road map B3.
The interior, although modern, is decorated in the style of an old inn, with exposed rafters. The cuisine is mainly
Bohemian and Hungarian, including sheep cheese soup, carp with onion and mushrooms, and cake with fruit and
whipped cream.
Nmst Mru 165, 377 01. Tel 384 361 252. Road map B3.
The restaurants interior seems to have been transported from an Italian palazzo. The cuisine is obviously
Mediterranean, but with the addition of Bohemian dishes. Delicious broccoli soup with croutons, pasta with ham
and cheese sauce, fruit salad.
Na Pkopech 188/II, 377 01. Tel 384 362 235. Road map B3.
Restaurant with a terrace, in a pension of the same name, set in the town centre. It serves Bohemian, Italian, Chinese
and Mexican dishes with a non-standard selection of vegetables. Here, you can spend a delightful evening by candle-
light, drinking excellent wines from the house cellar.
Nmst Miru 141, 377 01. Tel 384 362 320. Road map B3.
The Golden Goose offers top-class Bohemian cuisine and fish dishes. Particularly worth recommending are chicken
cocktail with pineapple, Viennese soup with sesame oil and bacon, rump steak with mushroom sauce and grilled
aubergines, and pancake with fruit.
Kocnova 1, 397 01. Tel 382 221 286. Road map B3.
A pleasant restaurant with pastel decor, situated opposite the city walls, with a view of the Putimska Gate. A large
selection of Bohemian and European dishes is on offer. Grilled food is served in the summer. Friendly service and a
romantic atmosphere.
Horn 165, Prachatice 383 01. Tel 388 310 618. Road map B3.
Suitable for diners who enjoy particularly spicy food, Indian Restaurant Tandoor offers a wide selection of vegetarian
dishes. The restaurant is no-smoking, so a visit here is suitable for families with children. Children will also enjoy the
selection of Indian cakes.
Vn 51, 383 01. Tel 388 311 424. Road map B3.
This restaurant is situated in the basement of the Hotel Parkan. In its pleasant dining room you can enjoy excellent
Bohemian, Moravian, traditional old-Czech or international cuisine. The chefs speciality is fish dishes. Smoking is
prohibited during lunch hours.
Velk nmst 39, 383 01. Tel 721 719 692. Road map B3.
A cosy and well-situated restaurant in the town centre offering superbly prepared Italian cuisine and a large selection
of Italian wines. Here, you can enjoy a choice of excellent pizza, spaghetti or risotto, served in a congenial
atmosphere.
Zadov 13, 384 73. Tel 388 428 107. Road map B3.
This restaurant is located in the Churov Hotel in the umava mountain range. Gourmets will appreciate its
Bohemian and international cuisine. The wine list offers a large selection of wines from all over the world. In
summer you can sit on the terrace and enjoy the magnificent views.
Velk nmst 53, 386 01. Tel 383 323 158. Road map B3.
This simple and elegant restaurant, situated in the town square, is decorated with a British feel. A large selection of
Bohemian and international dishes are on offer. The atmospheric wine bar in the cellar serves good wines and 19
brands of beer.
Varavsk 2708, 390 05. Tel 381 263 905. Road map B3.
A hotel restaurant, with cosy (albeit traditional) decor, serving Czech and international cuisine. The menu includes
cheese dumplings, garlic soup, fried carp with fried potatoes, and honey gateau with nuts and cream. Outdoor
seating is available in summer.
382 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
ikovo nmest 20, 390 02. Tel 380 900 901. Road map B3.
With its high ceilings, large windows, mirrors, sculptures and works by local craftsmen and famous Czech artists such
as Olbam Zoubek, Goldie offers a great experience, whether you choose to sit in the Atrium, Caf-Bar, Gallery or
main restaurant. The menus feature Czech and international cuisine and the wine list is extensive.
9. kvtna 617, 390 01. Tel 381 256 096. Road map B3.
Hotel Kapitl restaurant generates a tranquil homely atmosphere, and the food served here adds to the enjoyment.
Among the choices are tomatoes stuffed with cheese salad, soup with meat and dumplings, turkey steak stuffed
with ham and cheese, and banana in chocolate.
Masarykovo nmst 107, 379 01. Tel 384 757 111. Road map B3.
A restaurant situated in the Zlat Hvzda Hotel in the town centre. Food is cooked to traditional Bohemian recipes
and includes delicious fish and game. Draught beer is straight from the Formakna brewery. Large selection of
alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.
Valy 155, 379 01. Tel 384 721 149. Road map B3.
The traditional fishing region of Southern Bohemia is reflected in the decor of this fish restaurant; nets hang from the
ceiling and down between the tables. The restaurant serves fresh, locally-caught fish; recommendations include the
carp with dill and mushroom sauce.
WEST BOHEMIA
CHEB U Cech h ||
Kamenn 28/203, 350 02. Tel 354 422 661. Road map A2.
A reliable restaurant set in the historic city centre, close to the town square. It offers well-prepared traditional
Bohemian cuisine and a selection of draught beers. Its very friendly staff help to create an excellent
atmosphere.
Vodn 33, 334 01. Tel 379 720 222. Road map A3.
This small congenial restaurant in a Baroque building known as Konelsk enk is close to the town square. It
specializes in Italian cuisine, serving numerous types of pizza and other Italian dishes, as well as vegetarian variations.
Dogs are also welcome.
Nrodn 3/10, 351 01. Tel 353 825 756. Road map A2.
Luxurious restaurant belonging to the resort hotel of the same name. It offers beautifully prepared Bohemian food,
on a set or la carte menu. Excellent game dishes are available, and there is a large selection of both alcoholic and
non-alcoholic drinks.
Nmst Republiky 1, 346 01. Tel 379 423 483. Road map A3.
Located in the main square of this small town, the restaurant has a very pleasant, quiet and intimate atmosphere.
It serves traditional Bohemian dishes and a good choice of beers. The food is unsophisticated, but it is tasty and
reasonably priced.
Slovensk 2, 360 01. Tel 353 224 119. Road map A2.
This luxurious restaurant is located near the spa centre, in a restored building of a former 18th-century post inn.
It features a stylish interior with a wooden ceiling. Bohemian and European cuisines are prepared with taste and
imagination. Wine bar and garden pavilion.
Nov Louka 11, 360 01. Tel 353 102 111. Road map A2.
Modern, cosy interior decorated in warm colours. Bohemian and international cuisine. The most interesting items on
the menu include tuna and soy salad, roast rabbit with spring vegetables, and chocolate tart with orange and
banana ice cream.
Mrov nmst 2, 360 91. Tel 353 109 111. Road map A2.
A very elegant restaurant in the world-famous Grandhotel Pupp (see p352), with stylish decor based on stucco
wall decoration and light-coloured soft furnishings. Menu highlights include smoked fish served with balsamic
sauce, salmon cream soup, and roasted sea fish with jasmine rice, pepper and saffron.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 383
Ndran 185/III, 339 01. Tel 376 358 312. Road map A3.
A small, stylish wine bar near the town centre, close to the bus station. It offers a wide selection of wines, both local
and international, and an excellent range of Bohemian cuisine. Although fully air-conditioned, it also offers a
separate room for non-smokers.
Prask 22, 339 01. Tel 376 322 366. Road map A3.
Located in the town centre, the restaurant is decorated with photographs and historic artifacts associated with beer-
making. It serves delicious Bohemian cuisine, complemented with Plze beer. A programme of music is presented
every night; you can also take to the dance floor. A pleasant garden is open in the summer.
Nmst Mru 151, 339 01. Tel 376 311 958. Road map A3.
Located in the historic town square, this comfortable restaurant offers a wide selection of Bohemian cuisine, as well
as two unique dishes prepared from sea fish and game. There is a choice of grilled food. All dishes are beautifully
prepared and presented.
LOKET Bl k /h ||
T.G. Masaryka 10, 357 33. Tel 352 685 002. Road map A2.
This elegant restaurant in the Bl k hotel serves Bohemian and European cuisine. Its spacious, leafy terrace has a
magnificent view over the Ohe valley and offers a relaxed evenings dining. It also has a lively tavern (open ThuSun
7pm3am).
Nehrova 26, 353 01. Tel 354 624 455. Road map A2.
This elegant restaurant has the style of a romantic, cosy inn; it offers good quality food and drink. Traditional
Bohemian cuisine, set and la carte menus, all top-notch. It has a wide choice of fish and game dishes such as
venison with dumplings.
V Lomech 11, 323 00. Tel 377 534 323. Road map A3.
A highly congenial interior decorated in warm colours, but with modern accents. The restaurant offers a very simple
menu with Bohemian and international cuisine, including ham with melon, hunters soup, meat fondue
accompanied by a large platter of vegetable salads, and tiramisu.
Nmst Republiky 33, 301 00. Tel 377 226 757. Road map A3.
This modern, spacious restaurant decorated in pastel shades is one of the most popular in town. Among its many
dishes, highlights include home-made pt, hunters soup with beans and sausage, venison roulade cooked in wine,
fried potato dumpling, and baked ice cream with chocolate and cream.
U Borskho parku 31, 320 04. Tel 378 772 977. Road map A3.
A warm, homely atmosphere has been achieved through carefully selected furniture and decor, which emphasize the
foods flavour: simple, yet delicious. The best includes chicken salad in mustard mayonnaise, bread filled with traditional
home-made Bohemian potato soup, chicken breast with courgettes, and gingerbread.
NORTH BOHEMIA
Teplick 151, 405 05. Tel 412 544 571. Road map B2.
Pension Janas restaurant can seat 24 diners. The extensive menu includes venison and a selection of traditional
Czech dishes. They serve draught Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus. There is a cosy fireplace, a terrace and a
playground for children in the garden.
384 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
DEN U pstavu h ||
Labsk nbei 669/2, 405 02. Tel 412 532 557. Road map B2.
Scenically located on the shores of the Labe, the restaurants decor is on a marine theme and includes ropes, nets,
anchors and ships wheels. It specializes in grilled dishes, particularly fish, of course, but also game. Ingredients are
all fresh and carefully prepared.
Nmst T.G. Masaryka 91, 464 01 Frdlant v echch. Tel 483 312 439. Road map B2.
Located on the main square of Frdlandt, this cosy restaurant offers dishes named after Czech and Slovak fairy tales.
The specialities are Krakono (baked broccoli with vegetables and cream sauce) and Lamelezo, or iron breaker,
(steak with asparagus, pepper and mushroom sauce).
Frdlantsk 210, 460 01. Tel 606 601 122. Road map B2.
Situated between the town hall and Varsava cinema, this is a light and airy space, one of a handful of Czech
vegetarian restaurants. The chef does not even use eggs. Besides soups and main courses it also serves excellent
breakfasts. It also has facilities for the disabled.
t. Svobody 295/30, 460 01. Tel 482 750 863. Road map B2.
Restaurant with a caf, situated on the outskirts of the town centre, in the Stary Harcov district, on the shores of an
artificial lake. Modern interior includes a huge tank with piranha. It specializes in game, lamb and fish. Also on offer
are Italian dishes and grilled food. A large selection of Czech and foreign wines.
Grand Hotel Zlat Lev, Gutebergova 126/3, 460 01. Tel 485 256 700. Road map B2.
Stylish, intimate interior, lavishly decorated with fabrics, their textures and vibrant colours accentuated by candelabra
lighting. The menu at this hotel restaurant includes salmon caviar; Russian borsch; Golden Lion beef steak, and
chocolate cake.
Masarykova 29, 460 01. Tel 482 710 177. Road map B2.
This restaurant, near the zoo, on the shores of Labuthio Lake, offers the best fish dishes in town, including fresh-
water and sea varieties. Carp, trout, catfish and salmon are all cooked in a variety of ways and styles. Particularly
worth recommending are Atlantic salmon medallions on herbs, in cream sauce.
LIBEREC U Sever h ||
5. kvtna 350/52, 460 01. Tel 485 105 321. Road map B2.
A small, family restaurant with friendly service, and relaxing ambience, offering tasty Bohemian cuisine and Moravian
wines. In the summer tables are set outside; there is also an outdoor grill. The chefs special is the esk tali
(Czech plate).
Mrov nmst 13/21, 412 01. Tel/Fax 416 732 454. Road map B2.
The restaurant is in a small historic house, right in the town centre, with an atmospheric, vaulted interior.
Traditional Bohemian cuisine, including game. The delicious cakes and bread are baked on the premises. The only
non-smoking restaurant on the town square.
Hilbertova 62, 440 01. Tel 415 658 349. Road map B2.
The Na Hradbch restaurant is situated on the ground floor of the eponymous hotel. It serves a wide range of
Czech and foreign specialities particularly Japanese dishes. Chef Petr Koubek offers Beef Steak Harley D and Steak
Karel Gott with three cheeses.
Praska 105, 440 01. Tel 415 652 072. Road map B2.
Situated in the centre of town, the dining room of this small, friendly restaurant is simply furnished with wooden
furniture and white tablecloths. The menu includes delicacies such as deer carpaccio with grilled vegetables and
creamed goats cheese starters, followed by buck medallions filled with camembert and cranberries.
Vilov 18, 417 05. Tel 417 837 082. Road map B2.
A slightly unusual restaurant with stone-and-wood interior decor that is reminiscent of Alpine mountain inns. The
menu is dominated by Bohemian cuisine, but you may also wish to try its excellent seafood and fish. Large selection
of alcoholic drinks.
U Zmku 1991/8, 415 01. Tel 417 535 423. Road map B2.
Conveniently located in the centre of the city of Teplice, Gurman Restaurant nevertheless has parking. The restaurant
offers a varied selection of Czech and international culinary specialities. You can also choose from a wide range of
coffees from the global collection of Caf Corsini.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 385
Hotel Prince de Ligne, Zmeck nmst 136, 415 01. Tel 417 514 111. Road map B2.
The Prince de Ligne hotel restaurant offers a selection of Czech and international cuisine with modern touches in a
pleasant and stylish ambience, along with a wide selection of Czech and Moravian wines. Specialities include salmon
in butter with fine Hollandaise sauce and green asparagus, and snails au gratin in hot sauce on toast.
Star 1094/76, 401 34. Tel 475 221 336. Road map B2.
Situated in the town centre, this restaurant offers a wide choice of tasty Bohemian specialities. Vegetarians will also
find various dishes to their liking. There is a room reserved for non-smokers. The summer garden has an open-air
grill, and there is a childrens play area outside.
Lidick nmst 7, 401 34. Tel 732 327 233. Road map B2.
An elegant restaurant with a pleasant interior, right in the centre of town. It offers set menus as well as la carte
dishes, with a choice of Bohemian and international cuisine. A truly hospitable venue, it stays open until the last
guest leaves.
ATEC U Hada h ||
Nmst Svobody 155, 438 24. Tel 415 711 000. Road map A2.
A small hotel restaurant specializing in Bohemian and European cuisine, situated right in the town centre. The
decor is stylish, with great attention to detail and wonderful fresh flowers. Menu includes a vast selection of
salads, steaks and fish dishes.
EAST BOHEMIA
ERN DL Aurum /h ||
Hotel Aurum, 543 44. Tel 499 435 169. Road map C2.
A snug restaurant in the Aurum Hotel; in the morning it serves breakfast to hotel residents. In the summer you can
have a meal on the terrace, and enjoy a lovely view. A great variety of food, mainly Bohemian cuisine, and drinks.
There is an alehouse in the same hotel.
Nmst T G Masaryka 84, 544 01. Tel 603 104 011. Road map C2.
A tiny restaurant set in a small historic town house, in the main square, serving an interesting choice of Bohemian
and European cuisine. Particularly recommended is the soup served in hollowed-out bread. Highly efficient service
and a quiet, intimate atmosphere.
Na Vslun 1814, 580 01. Tel 569 425 932. Road map C3.
The restaurant offers Balkan cuisine, including fish, grilled steaks, pasta, meats and salads, as well as the more usual,
but nonetheless high quality, traditional Bohemian cuisine. The chefs special is the roast duck. In summer you can
eat in the garden.
Jihlavsk 1985, 580 01. Tel 569 496 200. Road map C3.
A smart restaurant in the Slunce hotel. The interiors are furnished in Empire style, with period furniture and attention
to the smallest details. The walls are hung with stained glass and paintings depicting Good Soldier vejk and the
Emperor Franz Josef. Bohemian cuisine, and Pilsner beer. Theres a room for non-smokers.
SA 353, 500 03. Tel 495 511 026. Road map B2.
An inexpensive restaurant on the edge of the Old Town, situated in a modernized Art Nouveau building. Traditional
Bohemian cuisine, fish, poultry, game and grilled food. A good selection of vegetable salads. The chefs special is
stuffed beef sirloin.
Velk nmst, pitlsk 175, 500 02. Tel 495 581 941. Road map B2.
A classic Czech pub with long wooden tables and benches and rustic artifacts adorning the walls. It serves Bohemian
and Moravian cuisine, also old Czech dishes. You can pop in for a quick lunch, or for an excellent leisurely dinner.
The place is popular with students.
Velk nmst 145, 500 03. Tel 495 214 214. Road map B2.
Staff wear period costume and the menu caters to all levels of medieval society, from supper for the poor traveller
to meals fit for a medieval monarch. Dishes are served on stone plates and there is an open fireplace. Pets are
allowed. Children get free ice cream.
386 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Mal nmst 117, 500 02. Tel 495 518 052. Road map B2.
This hotel restaurant has an idiosyncratic interior, with brick-arched ceilings, simple yet cosy. The menu has some-
thing on offer for everybody; there is carpaccio of salmon with herbs, soup with meat and dumplings, trout fried in
butter and fruits of the forest in dry sparkling wine.
Valdtejnovo nmst 34, 506 01. Tel 493 533 023. Road map B2.
This restaurant set in a Baroque house in Jin town square has a simple, unadorned interior and lovely views over the
park. The menu is extensive, and one of the chefs specials is delicious roast duck served with knedlky (dumplings)
and salad. Staropramen beer is served.
Lipnice nad Szavou 55, 582 32. Tel 569 486 126. Road map C2.
It was to this pub that Jaroslav Haek, the author of The Good Soldier vejk adventures, used to come, to sit, drink
and write. But this is not the only attraction of this place; it also offers delicious Bohemian cuisine cooked to old
recipes; added to this is the fine Plze beer.
Smetanovo nmst 84, 570 01. Tel 461 615 338. Road map C2.
This elegant hotel restaurant in the town centre has been visited by many political celebrities, including Vclav Havel.
Bohemian and European cuisine are served. Specialities include stew with wild mushrooms, omelette with bacon and
artichokes, and roast duck with dumplings. Formal dress code.
Purkyova 436, 547 01. Tel 491 520 374. Road map C2.
This restaurant is part of the Hotel Hron, a renovated historic building that used to be a private sanatorium. The
restaurant can seat 88 people, with a terrace that seats an additional 40 people. Specialities include Eisbein (roast
pork knuckle) and grilled butterfish.
Perntnsk 15, 532 02. Tel 466 513 100. Road map C2.
This restaurant is listed among the 100 best in the Czech Republic. Besides Bohemian specialities it serves dishes from
all over the world (mainly Balkan, Mediterranean and South American food); excellent grills and fish. A separate
room is provided for non-smokers.
Bulharsk 1784, 532 10. Tel 466 614 056. Road map C2.
The restaurant is scenically located in a park on the lakeshore just to the east of the Old Town. Smart and imaginative
interior includes a fish tank, leaving no doubt about which food is the speciality here. Organizes grills and country
music evenings.
Masarykova 941, 516 01. Tel 494 534 619. Road map C2.
Boldly designed, cosy yet classic interior with a view of the mountains. Serves European cuisine. Particularly worth
trying are tomatoes stuffed with chicken salad served with toast, mushroom soup, pork loin stuffed with hot red
chilli peppers and apple pie with whipped cream.
Bedichov 106, 543 51. Tel 499 469 111. Road map C2.
In the congenial surroundings and pleasant atmosphere of this hotel restaurant, with its excellent service, you can
enjoy delicious Bohemian and international cuisine, as well as top-class wines. Leave some room for the
mouthwatering home-made desserts and ice creams.
Na Vslun 236, 532 52. Tel 466 414 459. Road map C2.
This restaurant near Pardubice has pleasant modern decor and serves excellent food; grilled meat and steaks are
particularly recommended. The menu also includes seafood and vegetarian dishes and there is a choice of dishes
for children.
Kosteln, 541 01. Tel 603 481 208. Road map B2.
Restaurant and caf with modern interior furnishings, located close to the Baroque church. The restaurant (upstairs)
is reached by wooden stairs. Dishes worth recommending include onion soup with toast and chicken breast on crisp
vegetables. In summer, meals are also served in the small garden.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 387
Bouzov 15, 783 25. Tel 585 346 491. Road map C3.
A small congenial hotel restaurant decorated with hunting trophies. U Cimbury serves excellent Bohemian
and international cuisine, and offers both set and la carte menus. The restaurant specializes in simple country
fare, using fresh, local ingredients.
Dukelsk 203, 790 01. Tel 774 786 223. Road map C2.
In addition to the original pizza, pasta and salads, Avail Toscas menu offers a variety of Mediterranean dishes, all
prepared with fresh ingredients. There is also a wide range of desserts, including sweet crpes and ice cream
sundaes. The no-smoking environment is suitable for families.
Za Pilou 6, 790 01. Tel 584 402 063. Road map C2.
This huntsman-style restaurant is housed in the oldest building in the district, reconstructed after a fire of 1994. It serves
mouthwatering local cuisine; the chefs specialities include roast duck, and saddle of wild boar in cream, with
cowberries. Self-service bar with a large selection of salads.
Lidick 6, 741 01. Tel/Fax 556 701 229. Road map D3.
An elegant restaurant with stylish Art Nouveau interiors. Bohemian and European cuisine. Well prepared food,
beautifully presented. Friendly, smiling staff. There is an outdoor terrace open in the summer months, and a well-
stocked cocktail bar.
OLOMOUC Caesar /7 ||
Horn nmst-radnice, 771 00. Tel 585 229 287. Road map C3.
Restaurant-caf, situated in Gothic rooms of the historic town hall alongside an interesting commercial gallery.
Top-notch Italian cuisine and a large selection of alcoholic drinks, coffee and other beverages. The caf garden
overlooks the Olomouc town square.
Masarykova 3, 779 00. Tel 777 196 755. Road map C3.
The restaurant is set in a somewhat gloomy cellar with a fireplace. Serves Bohemian specialities, including steak
and chicken dishes. The choice of beers is good, with Velkopopovicky Kozel and Pilsner Urquell among others.
There is a TV in the bar area.
Pavelkova 22, 772 00. Tel 585 222 115. Road map C3.
Modern yet cosy interior; its quiet decor includes some Art Nouveau elements. Excellent food, varied and superbly
flavoured; includes vegetables with mozzarella, basil and olive oil, cream of mushroom soup, salmon fillet in cream
sauce with pasta, and baked vanilla ice cream.
OPAVA U Krbu / ||
Masask 3, 746 01. Tel 553 613 488. Road map D2.
Located in the historic town centre, this restaurant offers a large selection of Bohemian and European dishes from
cabbage soup to frogs legs. It also has a Mexican kitchen with specialities such as burritos and Tex-Mex chilli con
carne. Salads and desserts are both substantial.
Hladnovsk 19, 710 00. Tel 596 245 454. Road map D2.
A huntsman-style restaurant serving classic Bohemian and Moravian cuisine, and old-Czech fare. Game is on
the menu, including rabbit and pheasant, and the chefs special is roast duck. There is a large selection of grilled
dishes, particularly poultry and fish.
Ndran 305/5, 702 00. Ostrava Moravsk Tel 595 133 715. Road map D2.
This restaurant offers beautifully presented Mexican cuisine with excellent salads and pasta. Sirloin steak is a house
speciality. The wine list includes wines from Moravia and the rest of the world. They also serve spirits, including rum
and, of course, tequila.
Zkrcen 2703, 700 30. Tel 596 702 111. Road map D2.
The cosy interiors of this modern hotel restaurant open onto the surrounding greenery. International dishes with French
and Italian accents include beef medallions with blue cheese and salad, cream of asparagus with ham dumplings and
whipped cream, spaghetti with frutti di mare, and omelette with fruit, cinnamon and sugar.
388 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Koliby 2, 750 05. Tel 581 204 466. Road map D3.
Located in a modern hotel with an interesting central spiral atrium. The chef is dedicated to indulging all customers
gastronomic tastes, so the menu is large and varied, with choices such as ham with melon, sauerkraut soup with
sausages, turkey fillet with almond stuffing, and fruit salad.
PIBOR Mexico h ||
Frenttsk 166, 742 58. Tel 556 725 831. Road map D3.
This Mexican restaurant lies along the main road that runs through Pibor. Meals are served at the fast food bar, or
brought to the table. The decor is rustic with Mexican touches, and there are booths, which give it a cosy feel. Some
Bohemian specialities also make it on to the menu.
SOUTH MORAVIA
Masarova 9, 628 00 Brno-Lien. Tel 544 238 380. Road map C3.
Cuban restaurant, where you can enjoy Caribbean food, such as pollo frito a la Criola (fried Creole chicken), as well as
local and international cuisine. The decor is spectacular, with the building made to look like a crumbling Havana
mansion complete with pillars and tropical plants.
Kkovskho 47, 603 73. Tel 543 143 100. Road map C3.
An unusual restaurant occupying a rustic building the name means Moravian Cottage within the Voron
hotel complex. It serves Bohemian and Moravian cuisines, and the best-known brands of beer. There is a beer
tavern and a wine bar in the cellar plus an adjoining bowling alley.
Lidick 23, 659 89. Tel 541 321 207. Road map C3.
The modern decor of this hotel restaurant has a striking gold and blue colour scheme. Particularly recommended
is peach filled with chicken salad, Peking soup, breast of duck in saffron sauce with wild mushrooms, and hot apple
pie with vanilla cream and blueberries.
Orl 17, 602 00. Tel 544 213 845. Road map C3.
A stylish restaurant in the Old Town, housed in a building of the old Minorite monastery established in 1230. The
rooms are decorated with Baroque sculptures. The themed menu uses various ecclesiastical names for dishes, and
the food includes Bohemian delicacies and some vegetarian choices. Moravian wines are on offer.
Kkovskho 20, 603 00. Tel 543 122 111. Road map C3.
This modern hotel restaurant has a warm Scandinavian-style interior. Menu includes breast of duck slices served cold
with apricots and roasted pistachio, chicken broth with home-made dumplings and minced duck liver, roast goose
with red and white cabbage and dumplings, and baked apple en croute, with marzipan filling.
Husova 26/1643, 586 01. Tel 567 300 280. Road map C3.
The interior decor of this unusual restaurant has been inspired by ancient Latin American culture. Serves international
cuisine and vegetarian dishes as part of an extensive menu, which also has a section for children. A large selection of
beers and wines adds to the convivial atmosphere.
Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 389
Velk nmst 108, 767 01. Tel 602 351 620. Road map D3.
This hotel restaurant is situated in the historic town centre. It serves Bohemian and international specialities. In
summer there are tables outside in the arcaded hotel entrance with a wonderful view of the town square and the
castle. Live music and dancing on Fridays and Saturdays. Large selection of wines.
Nedvdice 76, 592 62. Tel 775 073 633. Road map C3.
Situated close to Perntejn Castle, this restaurant of long-standing traditions was established in the early 1920s. The
well-prepared food is mainly Bohemian, with dishes such as spicy pork wrapped in a potato pancake, and grilled
trout. Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Perntejn beers. Closed on Monday.
Palackho nmst 75, 684 01. Tel 544 221 103. Road map C3.
The restaurant belongs to a hotel of the same name, situated in the centre of Slavkov. Bohemian and international
dishes with grilled food a speciality. An open-air terrace has seating in the summer. In the adjoining pub there is a
good choice of draught beer.
Nmst Zacharie z Hradce 33. Tel 567 243 672. Road map B3.
A large, elegant restaurant in a hotel in the town square. The high-ceilinged, airy indoor restaurant spreads over two
rooms, while there is outdoor seating overlooking the square in the summer. Bohemian and European dishes are on
the menu. The wine list offers a large selection of Moravian wines.
Brnnsk 6, 666 01. Tel 549 410 335. Road map C3.
The extensive premises include a beer hall and a restaurant on the ground floor, and a wine bar with restaurant in
the basement. On the menu is a variety of grilled dishes. The tasty food is accompanied by a large selection of Mora-
vian wines.
Modnova 599, Teb-Novdvory. Tel 568 821 016. Road map C3.
A large restaurant set in an amusement centre. Here you can play billiards and mini-golf indoors. Steaks and pizzas
feature heavily on the menu, and the chefs specials include pork ribs and tuna steak cooked with garlic. Ideal for
families or groups.
Karlovo nmst 5, 674 01. Tel 568 848 560. Road map B3.
The Grand Hotel restaurant is situated in the town centre. Its attractions include Moravian evenings with wine tasting
and sampling of traditional local dishes. The regular menu is mainly Bohemian cuisine. The decor is modern and
slightly cold.
Nmst Republiky 24, 591 01. Tel 566 623 188. Road map C3.
A pleasant restaurant in the middle of the town. Located in the basement of the old town hall, it has an interesting
history and was at one time the local prison. It serves Bohemian and European dishes. Outdoor tables are available
in the summer. Friendly service.
Gahurova 5265, 760 01. Tel 577 210 028. Road map D2.
This restaurant and disco club offers a selection of 28 different pizza toppings. There are very good vegetarian
options and a menu of various kinds of pasta, cheese, and 15 different salads. Throughout the day you can enjoy a
bottle of good Moravian wine or a pint of Pilsner beer, or even a cocktail made to recipes directly from the Caribbean.
Nmst Prce 1335, 760 01. Tel 577 560 200. Road map C3.
A popular Mexican restaurant with a congenial atmosphere. The internal decor is typical of a Mexican themed venue.
All food is prepared in accordance with traditional recipes; some ingredients are imported from Mexico. The menu
also includes Mediterranean and American dishes, and there is a great choice for kids.
Hradn 87/2, 669 02. Tel 606 408 863. Road map C3.
A stylish restaurant in the Gothic rooms of Znojmo Castle. The menu is dominated by Bohemian cuisine, specializing
in grilled and spit-roasted fare. In spring and summer you can sit outside and enjoy historic vignettes played out on
the castles front courtyard.
390 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
BRATISLAVA
trova 13, 811 02. Tel (02) 52 63 16 56. Road map C4.
A variety of bagel sandwiches (such as French, Italian, New York and vegetarian) and salads are served in this original
American-style chain-restaurant. The fantastic selection of drinks ranges from cappuccinos, lattes and flavoured coffees
to milkshakes and fresh juices. Branches are found at Obchodn 10, Hlavn nmestie 8 and Ventrska 3.
afrikovo nmestie 7, 811 02. Tel/Fax (02) 52 92 54 73. Road map C4.
This traditional but modern restaurant has an light-hearted atmosphere. The bar serves excellent Czech and Belgian
beers, while the restaurant offers a variety of grill specials, stews and other Slovak, European and American dishes.
Its central location makes Trafen hus a great place to stop when sightseeing in the city.
1. Slovak Pub /
Obchodn 62, 811 02. Tel (02) 52 92 63 67. Road map C4.
This easy-going restaurant is a popular student meeting place. The food is typical Slovak fare, made with fresh
produce from the owners farm, including bryndza cheese made from sheeps milk. The dining rooms are decorated
to different themes from Slovak history.
Nm. SNP 8, 811 02. Tel 0907 227 754. Road map C4.
From the outside this restaurant has the traditional facade of an old Bratislavan town house, but inside the decor is
far from typical, as the interior resembles the deck of an old ship. In this unusual setting diners can enjoy good
Bratislavan and Slovak dishes at reasonable prices.
Zmock 13, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 41 38 24. Road map C4.
This cosy and reasonably priced restaurant on the way from the town centre to the castle, offers delicious dishes
of traditional Jewish cuisine, kosher wines, daily menus and fresh fruit drinks. Chez David also serves breakfast.
and has a quaint terrace.
Dulovo nmestie 1, 821 08. Tel (02) 55 96 85 50. Road map C4.
In addition to game, which is their speciality, this restaurant offers international dishes inspired by French cuisine.
The menu includes vegetable salads, pasta dishes and light chicken and fish selections. The desserts and pastries,
made on the premises, are outstanding. The interior reflects the hunting theme of their speciality.
Retaurcia Hrad /:
Nm. A. Dubeka 1 (in the castle courtyard). Tel/Fax (02) 59 72 42 56. Road map C4.
Located in the garden of the Bratislava Castle, Retaurcia Hrad has fantastic views over Bratislava that can be
enjoyed from the elegant terrace. The menu offers a variety of traditional Slovak dishes including Danube fish soup
and dumplings and sauerkraut. The decor is modern, and has crystal chandeliers.
Au Caf /:z7
La Lanterna /:z7
Zmock 30, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 13 13 90. Road map C4.
This cosy restaurant is owned by a young Italian. It is located halfway between the castle and the town centre.
On the menu are typical home-made Italian dishes like pasta and pizza as well as seafood and fresh fish. All can be
enjoyed with a good Italian wine.
Le Monde /:z7
Rybrsk Brna 8, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 41 54 11. Road map C4.
Situated in historic Kern House in the heart of the Old Town, this restaurant is a spectacular establishment.
The cuisine is international, with fresh fish, good steak and seasonal food. Be sure to check out the fantastic
views from the terrace. Le Monde is classy by day and seductive by night.
Paparazzi /z7
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie 20, 813 36. Tel/Fax (02) 54 43 48 83. Road map C4.
This award-winning restaurant is situated near the historic building of the National Theatre. Slovensk retaurcia
serves contemporary and traditional Slovak cuisine, including a variety of meats in cream sauces, and potato
dishes. The wine list is tempting.
WEST SLOVAKIA
Nmestie Mr tefnika II, 945 01. Tel (035) 773 1930. Road map D4.
An elegant restaurant situated in the town centre in a pension that occupies an 18th-century building. The culinary
traditions of this place go back to the 19th century, yet the stylish interior looks completely up to date. The menu is
a mix of local and international cuisine.
Dukelskch Hrdinov 47. Tel (034) 774 26 02. Road map C4.
Housed in a typical, traditional Slovak cottage, known as a koliba, this cosy restaurant is located adjacent to the
castle park. In keeping with the setting, the menu offers traditional Slovak dishes as well as a selection of grilled
meats. In the summer there is seating on an open terrace.
trova 95, 900 01. Tel (033) 640 57 08. Road map C4.
Located in the vineyard of a stylish 16th-century homestead, this restaurant offers excellent traditional Slovak meals
with a modern touch, as well as international cuisine. The wine cellar is huge, and waiting staff are on hand to help
choose the perfect wine to accompany meals. The courtyard is beautiful.
tefnikova 5, 949 01. Tel (037) 652 53 81. Road map D4.
An original Mexican-themed restaurant housed in the basement of the Zobor Hotel. Menu dominated by Mexican
food but it also includes Slovak and Bohemian dishes (served in the Gastro Grill, MonFri 7am8pm, Sun 211pm).
Occasionally it organizes all-night discos.
392 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Svtourbansk 27, 949 01. Tel/Fax (037) 655 02 05. Road map D4.
Beautifully located above the town on the slopes of Mount Zobor. Serves mainly regional food, but it also offers a
choice of international cuisine. Delicious desserts, including chocolate mousse with pear and cinnamon. There is a
good selection of Slovak and foreign wines.
portov 4, 941 01. Tel (035) 642 60 55. Road map D4.
The restaurant is run by the association of catering colleges and staffed by trainee catering students. Located above
the Kaufland shop, it offers a large and regularly changing selection of good quality and freshly prepared dishes at
very affordable prices.
Budovatelsk 2, 940 60. Tel/Fax (035) 642 64 80. Road map D4.
A modern restaurant and caf with summer terrace, Japanese garden and air-conditioned interiors. It specializes in
freshwater fish and game the stag goulash is very popular. It also offers a large selection of salads and dishes for
people who want to eat healthy yet tasty food.
Pezinsk 2, Slovensk Grob. Tel 0905 525 417; 0905 759 163. Road map C4.
This popular family restaurant cherishes tradition, serving up fine Western Slovak cuisine. The house speciality is roast
goose, and the goose liver and soup are also exceptional. It has an excellent wine cellar that is comprised mainly of
local wines. Its location in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains is lovely and is only a 30-minute drive from Bratislava.
Slnen jazer sever, 903 01. Tel (02) 45 92 72 55. Road map D4.
A modern hotel restaurant with a summer terrace overlooking the Sunny Lakes beach and sports area. The menu
lists a variety of meats, poultry, and even ostrich, as well as vegetarian dishes. The fish selection is good, with trout,
carp and catfish, as well as Goulash la Danube, with four kinds of fish.
Gen M R tefnika, 911 01. Tel (032) 650 61 11. Road map D3.
A hotel restaurant attractively located in a 19th-century building at the foot of Trenin Castle. Serves international
dishes, including grilled breast of duck with roasted apples filled with almonds or goats cheese, served on a bed
of lettuce with blueberries and pine nuts. French wines.
Kpeln 13, 914 51. Tel (032) 655 14 76. Road map D3.
Located in a quiet part of the resort, in a lovingly restored burghers house, it offers typically Slovak cuisine with
traditional names, such as Pachove gule (stuffed potato balls with smoked meat and stewed cabbage) or Zbojncke
dukty (Highland robbers ducats), which is pork roasted with bacon and sheeps cheese.
Rozmrinov 1, 937 01. Tel/Fax (036) 771 19 75. Road map D3.
Hungarian-style restaurant, the interior decor redolent of the 192030s. Wide selection of game, poultry and fish
dishes. The chefs showpiece is Piramida (Pyramid) a dish of turkey, pork loin, and roast goose slices with layers
of blue cheese. Pear with salmon mousse is also worth trying.
CENTRAL SLOVAKIA
chtiky 34, 974 01. Tel (048) 414 19 11. Road map E3.
achtika is a hotel restaurant enjoying an attractive location in the winter sports centre. The restaurants huge
windows offer superb views over the wooded mountain slopes. Slovak and international cuisine served to the music
of a Gypsy band in a typical Slovak environment.
Key to Price Guide see p390 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N S L O VA K I A 393
vermov 32, 974 04. Tel (048) 413 08 08. Road map C4.
A hotel restaurant situated close to the sports complex. Excellent for business meetings and banquets. It offers
Slovak and international cuisine at reasonable prices. Although the restaurant is large, its warm colours and softly
lit interior give it an intimate atmosphere.
Nmestie Slobody 2, 974 00. Tel (048) 414 41 41-45. Road map E3.
Located in the Lux Hotel, in the town centre, with an attractive view over the Old Town. Menu includes a wide
choice of vegetarian dishes, as well as poultry (such as Cte dAzur duck breast in orange sauce), beef, veal and
pork. Home-made sweets.
Bystr 108, 977 65. Tel (048) 630 8500. Road map C4.
Located in a typical Slovak koliba in the middle of a forest, Tlska Bata offers a rustic dining experience. Speciality
meat dishes are prepared on the coals in front of you, and grandmothers recipes keep the menu very traditional.
Live folk music provides a taste of Slovakias musical culture, and the play area offers plenty to keep children entertained.
erven Kltor 61, 059 06. Tel (052) 482 27 84. Road map E3.
This country-style restaurant, celebrating the folklore of the Pieniny highlanders, is situated at the centre of town. It
has simple decor with plenty of natural wood, and offers dishes from highland and Slovak cuisines. It also organizes
picnics with highland music.
Gerlachov 302, 059 42. Tel (052) 478 08 11. Road map E3.
A catering complex (two restaurants, caf, wine bar, hunters lounge and shepherds hut) set amid the romantic
scenery of the High Tatras, overlooking the Gerlach summit. Menu includes fish, poultry and game. Trout fillet with
prawns and salmon sauce is particularly recommended. A very large selection of wines.
Hrdinov SNP 90. Tel/Fax (043) 422 00 15. Road map D3.
Set in a picturesque location on the outskirts of town amid the mountain scenery of Mal Fatra, the restaurant
serves dishes such as turkey with asparagus and basil, and pancakes with chestnut pure, plus the best Slovak and
Moravian wines. An adjacent caf permits smoking.
Nov Smokovec 42, 062 01. Tel (052) 442 23 42. Road map E3.
A very smart, modern hotel restaurant with a light and airy interior and amazing mountain views from the windows
of the restaurant. Menu includes Slovak and international dishes. Outdoor dining in summer. Within the same hotel
are a wine bar and pub.
Prievidzsk 30, 972 46 evenany. Tel/Fax (905) 354 538. Road map D3.
One of the best restaurants in the country, located in a beautiful small castle. Extensive and imaginative menu includ-
ing original seafood dishes. Also cream of snail soup with roasted almonds, or marinated salmon with prawns in a
prawn sauce. Save some room for one of the delicious desserts. Large no-smoking room.
1 mja 899, 020 01. Tel (042) 463 14 51. Road map D3.
The restaurant belongs to the modern Hotel Wili. The interior is crisply decorated, and the food very well presented.
Salmon with spinach garnished with Orava bacon comes well recommended. A delicious dessert is pear baked in red
wine filled with vanilla cream and nuts.
Nmestie A Hlinku 43, 034 01. Tel (044) 432 82 06. Road map C4.
With its excellent location in the towns central square, in a historic craftsmans house, the restaurant is reputed to
be the best in this part of Liptov. It offers regional delicacies consisting of fish and game. Wild boar medallions with
thyme and blueberry sauce, served with grilled potatoes, is definitely a dish worth trying.
Star Smokovec 25, 062 01. Tel 442 51 91. Road map E3.
A modern gastronomic complex within a hotel, with the main restaurant in an imposing, high-ceilinged room, and a
nearby bistro and caf. In summer wooden tables are placed outside for alfresco dining. All dietary requirements can
be accommodated on request.
394 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
Tatransk Lomnica 192. Tel (052) 446 76 30. Road map E3.
The Zbojncka Koliba, or Robbers Cottage, offers a wonderful atmosphere with its typical Slovak ceramics, wood
interior and open fireplace. The food is typical Slovak at reasonable prices. It is situated in the centre of Tatransk
Lomnica next to the Grand Hotel Praha. Live folk music every evening.
Zvodsk cesta 2961, 010 01. Tel/Fax (041) 724 76 63. Road map D3.
The restaurant, run by the association of catering colleges, has plenty of Slovak dishes, some cooked in front
of guests. Famous for its desserts, including the home-baked strudel with nuts. The interior is fairly plain and
brightly lit.
Marinske nmestie 30/5, 010 01. Tel (041) 564 06 85. Road map D3.
Located in the town centre, this is one of the most elegant restaurants in ilina. The chefs, with international
experience, prepare all kinds of dishes from around the world. Particularly worth recommending is the pork
tenderloin wrapped in Parma ham with potato gratin.
Nmestie SNP 64/2, 960 01. Tel/Fax (045) 532 01 24. Road map D3.
The towns most famous restaurant. It leans towards Slovak cuisine and potatoes in any form: boiled, roasted or
made into pancakes (harula). Slovak dishes are served with Slovak wines. Also international cuisine. The delicious
desserts include pear with caramel and ice cream.
EAST SLOVAKIA
MUDr. Alexandra 24, 060 01. Tel (052) 452 40 51. Road map E3.
The towns most elegant restaurant. Its interior is decorated with hunting trophies. A wide selection of Slovak and
international dishes, and its specialities include venison, and whole roast pig (which needs to be ordered in advance).
In spring and summer you can dine outdoors.
Kovska 51, 040 01. Tel (055) 729 51 05. Road map F3.
The restaurant has been in business since 1910. It is located in Koice Old Town, in a 14th-century burghers house.
Snug interior; extensive menu and wine list Slovak and foreign. The chefs specials include breast of duck with
almonds and orange salsa; also turkey roulade.
Bon 10, 040 01. Tel (055) 728 84 93. Road map F3.
Richtrsky Dvor is a truly traditional Slovak-style restaurant in the centre of Koice. It offers huge portions of home-
made traditional Slovak dishes at reasonable prices. Meats are grilled to order on the indoor and outdoor grills.
The atmosphere makes it suitable for families with children.
Key to Price Guide see p390 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
W H E R E T O E A T I N S L O VA K I A 395
Kovska 19, 040 01. Tel (055) 685 40 39. Road map F3.
This restaurant transports visitors to the magical realms of Camelot. Waiting staff are dressed in authentic costume,
and the interior is decorated with shields and swords. Large portions and juicy steaks are served on clay plates, and
are accompanied by excellent beer and wine.
Letn 1, 040 01. Tel (055) 798 38 11. Road map F3.
One of the best restaurants in Koice, it specializes in traditional Slovak cuisine, supplemented by international dishes.
It offers as many as 180 Slovak and French wines. House specials include breast of duck with pineapple sauce, beans
and potatoes; and foie gras with Cumberland sauce.
Nmestie Majstra Pavla 11, 054 01. Tel (053) 451 23 02. Road map E3.
An elegant restaurant (Restaurant At the Three Apostles) situated at the centre of this historic town. It offers
excellently prepared dishes representing traditional Slovak cuisine. Menu includes a large selection of fish, at
reasonable prices, and vegetarian dishes.
Sobotsk nmestie 43, 058 01. Tel/Fax (052) 776 96 02. Road map E3.
Restaurant, caf and wine bar belonging to a congenial pension in Spisk Sobota, the historic district of Poprad.
Housed in a Renaissance building, it serves a lovely venison steak. A well-stocked wine cellar offers a choice of over
200 Slovak and foreign wines.
Sobotsk nmestie 1730/6, 058 01. Tel/Fax (052) 776 95 80. Road map E3.
The restaurant belongs to a small pension in a 17th-century building in Spisk Sobota. It serves Slovak and
international cuisine, including lamb steak with spinach and baked pierogi (dumplings). An attractive summer
garden in historic surroundings. Open fires in winter.
PREOV La Cucaracha /z
Hlavn 72, 080 01. Tel 772 06 00. Road map F3.
The restaurant is located near Preovs historic centre. La Cucaracha specializes in Mexican cuisine the chilli
con carne and tacos are excellent but the menu also features a variety of grilled meats. The delicious, home-
made desserts are highly recommended.
PREOV Ludwig /:
Roavsk 635, 049 41. Tel/Fax (058) 732 99 80. Road map E3.
A cosy restaurant located in a building scenically set at the foot of one of Slovakias most famous castles. It offers
generous portions of traditional Slovak cuisine. Service is friendly and the atmosphere is pleasant. In summer there is
an outdoor terrace for diners, and a childrens play area.
Letn 49, 052 01. Tel/Fax (053) 441 41 44. Road map E3.
Located in the town centre in a historic building, the restaurant favours fusion cuisine, combining American, Mexican
and Italian elements. Particularly recommended are the Knig (king) salmon, grilled breast of duck with peas, fried
potatoes and rosemary sauce, and the Italian desserts.
Stefanikovo nmestie 2, 052 01. Tel 442 22 413. Road map E3.
The elegant restaurant of the Metropol Hotel offers a large selection of international dishes. The restaurant
specializes in meat and fish dishes as well as delicious desserts. There is a patio open during the summer months
where you can enjoy an aperitif before dinner.
SNP 504/99. Tel (052) 482 2178; 0903 759 034. Road map E3.
Restaurant Nova offers a wide range of local and international dishes. In winter visitors can sit by the roaring open
fire, and in summer they can dine al fresco on the outdoor terrace. It has a beer house, where smoking is allowed,
and holds a weekly disco.
Levosk cesta 11, 053 04. Tel (053) 454 12 02. Road map E3.
This long-standing restaurant has been in business since 1964. The menu features regional cuisine, consisting
mainly of traditional Spi dishes such as sheeps-cheese dumplings. A playground and pony rides are provided for
younger guests.
396 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
DIRECTORY
MARKETS Hracky ANTIQUES Na Star Pot
Loretnsk nmst 3. Staroitnosti Nmst
Havel Market Prague. Map 1 B3. Art Gallery
Havelsk, Prague 1. Kinskyeh 7, Prague. Map
Tel 603 515 745. Maiselova 9, Josefov,
Map 3 B4. 3 B4. Tel 257 311 245.
Moser Prague. Map 3 B3.
Prague Market Staroitnosti Uhl
Na Pikop 12, Prague. Tel 222 319 816.
Holeovice, Prague 7. Mikulandsk 8, Prague.
Map 3 C4.
GLASS AND Tel 224 211 293. Bazar nbytku Map 3 B5.
CERAMICS Libensk ostrov, Prague 8. Tel 224 930 572.
Sklrny Bohemia
Nmst T G Masaryka Tel 266 310 726.
Dana-Bohemia
1130, Podbrady. FOOD AND
Nrodn 43, Prague. Dorotheum
Map 3 A5. Tel 325 611 618. ALCOHOLIC
Tel 224 214 655. Ovocn trh 2, Prague. DRINKS
Sklo
Mal nmst 6, Prague. Map 3 C3.
Sklo
Map 3 B4. Tel 224 222 001. Jan Paukert
Tda 1. Mje, Liberec.
Delicatessen and
Helena Bonevov Zdenk Kleprlk Elart Wine Bar
Repliky vitr Veste Glass
Mosteck 7, Mal Strana, Nrodn 17, Prague. Map
jezd 21, Prague. Ddinova 2011, Prague 4.
Map 2 E4. Tel 72 934 117. Prague. Map 3 B4. 3 A5. Tel 224 214 968.
Tel 257 311 496. www.vesteglass.com Tel 257 530 722. www.janpaukert.cz
398 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
SHOPPING IN SLOVAKIA
T he souvenirs and
presents most often
brought back from
Slovakia are handcrafted
goods, such as traditional
The local cheeses are varied
and delicious, and Slovak
wines, beers and spirits are
good value.
Shops in Slovakia range
clothing, tablecloths, lace, from small local outlets and
Slovak ceramic plaque
wooden or china figurines, bazaars and markets to
sculptures, ceramics and paintings on department stores and supermarkets
glass, wood or ceramic. An original, belonging to large international chains.
although somewhat bulky, souvenir The best places to buy Slovak
would be a vast mountain horn up to handcrafted goods are at the numerous
4 m (13 ft) in length! Visitors to the folk festivals, but you can also get them
Tatras mountains can bring back a in specialist shops, which you will
valaka a highlanders walking stick. generally find in any of the larger towns.
SALES TAX Most large department stores
in town centres date from
In the Slovak the Communist era, but their
Republic sales tax is interiors have been adapted
known as DPH (da to modern trade requirements.
z pridanej hodnoty). Some have been taken over
It is charged on most by the Tesco group. The
goods at a flat rate of range of goods on offer is
19 per cent. practically the same as that
When they leave found on the shelves of all
the country, visitors large stores in Europe.
from non-EU coun-
tries can claim a MARKETS
refund of sales tax of
up to 14 per cent of In many Slovak towns
the purchase price of and villages the traditional
A souvenir stall goods over 165. market day is Saturday.
This is when locals come
OPENING HOURS DEPARTMENT STORES out to buy the best local
fruit, vegetables and meat.
Shops in Slovakia are generally Over the last decade, Slovakia, The most famous weekly
open from 9am to 6pm, particularly Bratislava, has produce market takes place
although some food stores experienced a boom of large, in the twin central market
open as early as 6am and do modern, trendy shopping squares in Bratislava
not close until 8 or 9pm. Some malls and galleries. Some of (Hlavn nmestie and
shops open on Saturdays and these are within walking Frantiknsk nmestie).
Sundays, usually until 1pm. distance of the city centre, At Slovak markets, besides
Shops belonging to large and open seven days a week buying all sorts of goods,
chains, like Carrefour, Billa or from 10am to 9pm. you can also taste local
Hypernova, are usually open
every day of the week until
late at night (Saturdays and
Sundays until 5pm). Out-of-
town hypermarkets such as
Tesco are open 24 hrs. These
are not to be confused with
Tesco town centre department
stores, which are open the
same hours as smaller shops.
HOW TO PAY
DIRECTORY
CERAMICS Marin Chovanec Kora ULUV Stores
Rhodyho 13, 085 01 www.uluv.sk
Benekit v.o.s. Hurbanovo nmestie 46,
Bardejov. Main store: Obchodn
Gorkho 15, 811 01 Bojnice. 64, 816 11 Bratislava.
Bratislava. Penzin Remeseln Tel (046) 541 24 95. Tel 0915 987 299.
Tel (02) 54 43 40 29.
Dvor
Trojin nmestie 182/8, Staro itnosti Other branches:
Blesk & MLB s.r.o. 027 44 Tvrdon (near Doln 14, 974 01 Bansk
Pavel Haluka, Ul. 1.
Nmestie A Hlinku 72, Oravsky castle). www. Bystrica.
penzion-remeselnydvor.sk mja 19, Liptovsk Tel (048) 412 36 57.
034 01 Ruomberok.
Mikul. Radnin nmestie 42,
Detvianske ludov Slovensk ludov
majolika www.antikliptov.com 085 67 Bardejov.
umenie
Doln 138, 900 01 Modra. Tel (054) 472 29 84.
Partiznska St. (opposite U Krla Mateja
the church), Detva. Tel (033) 647 32 38. Nmestie SNP 12,
Sobotk nmestie 1774/31, 811 06 Bratislava.
http://vysivky.detva.biz www.majolika.sk
Poprad Spisk Sobota. Tel (102) 52 92 38 02.
Folk Folk ANTIQUES AND Tel 0907 564 312. Hlavn 137 kolgium,
Rybrska Brna 2. HANDICRAFTS 080 01 Preov.
www.antiq.sk
Tel (02) 54 43 48 74. Tel (051) 773 22 66.
Hubov
Ludov umenie U ofky
Zochova 1013/8, 026 01 Hlavn 5,
Kramariov Doln Kubn. Michalska 5, Bratislava. 917 00 Trnava.
Albetina 32/34, Koice. Tel 0905 566 116. Tel (02) 54 43 19 94. Tel (033) 551 36 84.
400 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
CZECH EN T ER TAI N M E NT
T he Czech Republic offers
a wide variety of enter-
tainment for its visitors,
with something for every taste
and interest. Those who enjoy
holiday period, numerous
Czech castles stage knights
tournaments with brilliant
displays of fencing or
swordsmanship. In the
nightlife will get the most from evenings dramatic episodes
Prague, with its scores of associated with the sites
nightclubs, theatres, cinemas history are performed.
and music venues. Outside Concerts of early and Baroque
Prague the options are more lim- music and organ recitals take place
ited, but most other large Detail from the Puppet in castles and churches. Many
towns and cities have a lively Theatre in Ostrava towns and tourist resorts
cultural scene, though it may be mostly organize club nights and rock concerts
for Czech speakers. During the main featuring local and international artists.
THEATRE
An outdoor performance of a play in esk Krumlov, South Bohemia Most large towns have a
theatre, often a historic
INFORMATION advance. If you are visiting in building with a beautiful
the summer, it makes sense to interior. Czech theatre has a
Information on what is on book ahead for performances long tradition. Pragues
and where in Prague can be you particularly want to see National Theatre (see pp945)
found in the listings of the and they will deliver the is the citys main theatre, but
weekly English-language tickets to your hotel. there are many mainstream
Prague Post, sold in the city and fringe theatres, such as
and available on the Internet CINEMA the Laterna Magika and the
(www.praguepost.com). Here Komedie, both of which stage
and elsewhere, tourist offices There are cinemas throughout more avant-garde productions.
are also a good source of the country, even in small As a rule, theatres display
information, and look out for towns. They show the latest the plays that are currently in
free leaflets and posters in the foreign releases (often repertoire on the front of the
local area. Hollywood blockbusters), as building, but posters advert-
ising current productions can
BOOKING AND PRICES also be seen locally. Few
productions outside Prague
Tickets for cultural events in are in English.
the Czech Republic are not
excessively expensive: they CLASSICAL MUSIC
range from around 100K (for AND OPERA
one of the smaller theatres in
Prague) up to 3,000K (for a Classical music has a long
concert by a major orchestra). tradition in the Czech
Concert and theatre tickets Republic. The country has
can be booked by telephone produced some great
or by letter. Tickets to Pragues composers, including Bedich
National Opera or National Smetana, Antonn Dvok,
Theatre can also be purchased Leo Janek, and Bohuslav
on the Internet. Group tickets Martin. Works by Czech
to the most popular perform- Classical music concert in Pragues composers figure in the
ances can be booked well in State Opera repertoires of local orchestras
C Z E C H E N T E R T A I N M E N T 401
DIRECTORY
TICKETS Map 3 A5. Rudolfinum Tel 222 211 275.
Tel 224 901 448. Alovo Nbei 12, Prague. www.agharta.cz
www.ticketpro.cz Map 3 A3. Tel 227 059
www.nationaltheatre.cz
Malostransk
352. www.rudolfinum.cz
CINEMA Beseda
CLASSICAL MUSIC
State Opera Malostransk nm. 21,
Cinema City Flora AND OPERA
Wilsonova 4, Prague 1. Prague 1. Map 3 C4.
Vinohradsk, Prague 3. Map 4 E5. Tel 224 227 Tel 0605 189 524.
Estates Theatre
Tel 255 742 021. 266. www.opera.cz
www.cinemacity.cz Ovocn trh 1, Prague 1. Palace Akropolis
Map 3 C4. Kubelkova 27, Prague 1.
MUSIC FESTIVALS
THEATRES Tel 224 215 001. Tel 296 330 913.
www.narodni-divdlo.cz International Jazz www.palacakropolis.cz
Komedie Theatre Festival
Jungmannova 1, Prague 1. Municipal House Rock Caf
Nmst Republiky 5, www.jazzfestivalpraha.cz
Map 3 C5. Nrodn 20, Prague 1.
Tel 224 222 734. Prague 1. Map 4 D3. Prague Spring Map 3 B5.
www.divadlokomedie.cz Tel 222 002 101. www.praguespring.cz Tel 608 702 008.
www.obecnidum.cz www.rockcafe.cz
Laterna Magika
NIGHTLIFE
Nrodn 4, Prague 1. National Theatre, Valentino
Map 3 A5. Brno Agharta Jazz Vinohradskaho, Prague 2.
Tel 224 931 482. Dvoakova 11, Brno. Centrum Map 6 F1.
National Theatre Tel 542 158 111. elezn 16, Prague 1. Tel 222 513 491.
Nrodn 2, Prague 1. www.ndbrno.cz Map 3 C4. www.club-valentino.cz.
402 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
S LO VA K EN T ER TAI N M E NT
MUSIC FESTIVALS
DIRECTORY
CINEMA Nov Scna MUSIC FESTIVALS Flamenco
ivnostensk 1, tefnikova 14, Bratislava.
Palace Cinemas Bratislava Jazz Days
Bratislava.
Shopping Centre Eurovea. www.nova-scena.sk www.bjd.sk Tel (02) 90 56 12 90.
Tel (02) 68 20 22 22.
www.palacecinemas.sk Pressburger NIGHTLIFE Harley Davidson
Klezmer Band Rebarborov 1, Bratislava.
THEATRES www.klezmer.sk 17s Bar
www.harley-davidson.sk
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie
Arna Theatre CLASSICAL MUSIC, 17, Bratislava.
OPERA AND Jazz Caf
Viedensk cesta 10, Tel (09) 03 63 70 38.
Bratislava. BALLET Ventrska 5,
Tel (02) 67 20 25 57. Apollon Gay Club Bratislava.
Slovak National
Panensk 24, Bratislava.
Astorka Theatre Theatre Tel (02) 54 43 46 61.
Tel 0948 900 093.
Nmestie SNP 33. Pribinova 17, Bratislava
www.apollon-gay-club.sk www.jazz-cafe.sk
www.astorka.sk Historical Building (Opera)
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie Caf Kt Laverna Klub
Divadlo West Bratislava. www.snd.sk
Nmestie SNP 14. Zmonick 11, Bratislava. Nmestie SNP 19,
www.divadlo-west.sk Slovak Tel (02) 54 43 49 57.
Bratislava.
Philharmonic
GUnaGU Orchestra Cirkus Barok
Sparx Disco Club
Na Frantiknskom Palackho 2, Bratislava. Rzusovo nbreie 2,
nmestie 7, Bratislava. Tel (02) 59 20 82 33. Bratislava. Cintornska 32.
Tel (02) 54 43 33 35. www.filharm.sk Tel (02) 54 64 20 91. www.sparx.sk
404 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
SKIING AND
SNOWBOARDING
Canoeists on the Vltava, near Nova Pec, South Bohemia GOLF AND TENNIS
DIRECTORY
HIKING elezn Ruda FISHING Luhaovice
Information Centre www.luhacovice.cz
Czech Hiking Club Czech Fishing
Javorsk 124, 340 04
Archeologick 2256/1, Union Marinsk Lzn
elezn Ruda, umava.
155 00 Prague 5. Nad Olinami 31, www.marianskelazne.cz
Tel 376 397 033.
Tel 251 610 181. 100 00 Prague 10.
Fax 376 397 033. Teplice
Tel 274 811 751.
www.kct.cz www.lazneteplice.cz
www.rybsvaz.cz
ROCK
SKIING CLIMBING GOLF AND TENNIS
SPAS
Czech Skiing esk rj Czech Spa Czech Golf
Association Information Information Federation
Ztopkova 2, Centre Masarykovo nmst 20, Strakonick 2860,
160 17 Prague 6. Nmst eskho 379 01 Tebo. 150 00 Prague 5. Tel 296
Tel 296 118 368. rje 26, 511 01 Turnov. Tel 384 750 838. 373 201. www.cgf.cz
Tel 481 366 255. www.spas.cz
Jesenky Tourist Czech Tennis
Fax 481 366 256. Frantikovy
Information Association
www.cesky-raj.info Lzn
Centre Ostrov tvanice 38,
Masarykovo nm. 1/167, Czech Climbing www.frantiskovylazne.cz 170 00 Prague 7.
790 01 Jesenk. Organization Karlovy Vary Tel 222 333 444.
Tel 584 498 155. www.czechclimbing.com www.karlovyvary.cz www.cztenis.cz
406 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S
ICE HOCKEY
MOTORCYCLE
SPORTS
Czech Autoclub
Na Stri, 1837 Praha 4.
Tel 261 104 279.
www.uamk-cr.cz
The Ice Hockey World Championships in Prague, 2004
S P O R T A N D L E I S U R E 407
HORSE RIDING
DIRECTORY
SKIING AND HIKING CYCLING Pietany. Tel (033) 775
SNOWBOARDING 77 33. Fax (033) 775 77
High Tatras Slovak Cycling 39. www.piestany-spa.sk
Jasn www.tatry.sk Association
Nzke Tatry (Low Tatras). Tel (02) 44 45 67 52. Slovak Spas
Tel 0907 886 644. ROCK CLIMBING www.cyklistikaszc.sk www.slovakia-spa.sk
www.jasna.sk Slovensk Lieebn
Climbing Routes
SPAS Kpele Trenianske
Skipark www.tatry.nfo.sk
Kojovsk Hola Teplice
International Bardejovsk Kpele
914 51 Trenianske-Teplice.
Letn 42, 040 01 Koice. Mountaineering 086-31 Bardejovsk Kpele.
Tel (032) 655 22 88.
Tel (055) 489 83 91. & Climbing Tel (054) 477 44 70.
Fax (032) 655 29 60.
Federation Fax (054) 472 35 49.
Skipark Ruomberok www.slktn.sk
www.theuiaa.org www.kupele-bj.sk
Hrabovsk cesta 1679/31,
Ruomberok. Mountain Rescue Kpele Rajeck GOLF
Tel /Fax (044) 432 26 06. Tel 527 87 77 11. Teplice
www.skipark.sk
Slovak Golf Union
www.hzs.sk Tel (041) 549 42 56.
www.skga.sk
Fax (041) 549 36 74.
Ski Park Vyn Tel (02) 4445 07 27.
CAVE www.spa.sk
Rubachy www.international.sk
EXPLORATION
Vyn Rubachy 333. Slovak Health Spa www.tale.sk
Tel 0903 616 003. Cave Locations Pietany, Inc. www.golfskalica.sk
www.skiparkvruzbachy.sk www.ssj.sk Winterova 29, 921 29 www.golf.sk
S P O R T A N D L E I S U R E 409
Slovak Football
Association
Juncka 6,
832 80 Bratislava.
Tel (02) 492 49 161.
Fax (02) 492 49 595.
www.futbalsfz.sk
SKIING
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
LANGUAGE
LANGUAGE
ADMISSION PRICES
GUARDING AGAINST
THEFT
24-Hour Pharmacy
Pohotovostn Lekrna Palackho 5.
Tel 224 946 982.
Czech police car
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 417
Childrens Emergencies
Limbov 1, Bratislava.
Tel (02) 59 37 11 11.
24-hour Pharmacy
Ruinovsk 12, Bratislava.
Tel (02) 48 21 10 11.
Slovak ambulance
418 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
American Express
Vclavsk nmst 56, Prague.
Map 3 C5.
Tel 57 53 32 47.
www.aexp.com
Interchange
Mosteck 5, Prague.
Map 3 C4.
Tel 257 531 580.
www.interchange.cz
Western Union
Jindisk 7. Tel 24 22 29 54.
www.westernunion.cz
Modern building of the Czech National Bank, in Ust nad Labem
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 419
50K note
100K note
200K note
500K note
1,000K note
2,000K note
5,000K note
50 crowns (50K) 20 crowns (20K) 10 crowns (10K) 5 crowns (5K) 2 crowns (2K)
Coins
Czech coins come in the following denominations:
50 hellers and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 crowns (K).
All coins have the Czech emblem (a lion rampant)
on the reverse.
1 crown (1K) 50 hellers
420 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
SELECTED BRANCHES OF
BUREAUS DE CHANGE
DT Zmenre
Miletiova 17.
Tel 0902 610 791.
Scars
Hviezdoslavova 21, Zvolen.
Tel & Fax (045) 533 33 30.
www.scars.sk
Zmenre Aurika
Nmestie sv. Egdia 22, Poprad.
Tel 0908 844 818.
Bank faade in Bansk Bystrica
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 421
THE EURO Italy, Luxembourg, Malta, the and coins coming into cir-
Netherlands, Portugal, culation. A very short transi-
Sixteen member states of the Slovakia, Slovenia and Spain tion period of only two
EU have now replaced their have all chosen to join the weeks allowed euros and the
traditional currencies with a new currency; the UK, Slovak koruna to be used
single European currency, the Denmark and Sweden have simultaneously. All euro notes
euro. Austria, Belgium, stayed out. The euro was and coins can be used
Cyprus, Finland, France, introduced in Slovakia on 1 anywhere inside the
Germany, Greece, Ireland, January 2009, with notes participating member states.
Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The 5 note
(grey in colour) is the smallest,
followed by the 10 note (pink),
20 note (blue), 50 note (orange),
100 note (green), 200 note
(yellow) and 500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of 5 euros
the European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations:
1 and 2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents,
5 cents, 2 cents and 1 cent. The 2 and
1 coins are both silver and gold in colour.
The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins are gold.
The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
422 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
MOBILE PHONES
USEFUL NUMBERS
2 The message
Vlote telefonni
1 Lift the
receiver and
wait for the
kartu tells you to
insert the card into
Dial these prefixes
before the Czech
dialling tone. the slot. The display number when calling
shows you the credit from abroad: from the
left on your card.
UK and Ireland 00420;
from USA and Canada
4 The card is
ejected
3 When the words
Volte islo appear,
dial and wait to be
011420; from Australia
and New Zealand
automatically connected.
when it runs 0011420.
out. Directory enquiries: 1180
By pressing this red
button you can hear
International info: 1181.
Emergency numbers instructions in English.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 423
The payphones in Slovakia The Slovak telephone network Slovak news kiosk, one of many
are both coin and card- is currently undergoing selling telephone cards
operated. The service is quick modernization, which can
and efficient, but not all make life harder when you parcel up to 2 kg (4.4 lb)
public telephones allow for are trying to get a connection. costs 4; an international
international calls. Those that Three-digit area codes have package up to 1 kg (2.2 lb) in
do not allow been introduced weight costs 25.
outgoing calls to (the first digit is As in the Czech Republic, a
international and always 0), and poste restante service is avail-
mobile numbers when making a able in the main post office
are marked with long-distance (Pota 1) in each major town.
an orange call you should You will need your passport
sticker. If you are dial the area in order to collect your mail.
in doubt, seek code of the town
advice at a post or the region, INTERNET AND E-MAIL
office. Phone followed by the
cards can be Slovak post box subscribers Internet cafs are not quite
purchased at post number. Local as prevalent as in the Czech
offices and news kiosks calls do not need the area Republic, but can neverthe-
and are easier to use for code. The new area codes for less be found in many towns.
international calls. They are Slovak telephone numbers They are opening up on a
sold in 75 and 150 units. are included in this guide. regular basis, so finding them
Some major towns have should not present too many
telephone exchanges in MAIL SERVICES difficulties. Sometimes a sign
which you can make a may be hung along the main
phone call and pay the total Post offices can be found in street, but the actual entrance
cost at the end. Calls from all towns and larger villages. may lead through gates,
hotel telephones tend to They generally open from corridors and back yards.
be expensive; it is advisable 8am until 6pm, Monday to These kinds of establishments
to check the rates before Friday, and 8am until 1pm on are often located in cellars.
making an outward call. Saturday. In large towns you They charge about 1.502
There are currently two can find some post offices per hour, with the total
mobile phone operators that open on Sundays. A charges being calculated by
in Slovakia: Orange and postage stamp (znmky) for the minute. Many hotels offer
EuroTel. an ordinary letter costs 1; a Internet access to guests.
T he easiest way to
reach both the
Czech and Slovak
Republics is by air.
Prague airport is served
(31 miles) from Bratislava, which is
better connected.
Travelling by train
or coach is also
possible; it is often cheaper
by many airlines, including SA (Czech than air travel and enables you
Airlines) aircraft
several low-cost carriers. to see more of the country,
Bratislava has fewer flights, and one though may take longer. Road and rail
option is to fly to Vienna, just 50 km links are excellent from most of Europe.
SA V Celnici 5, Prague.
Tel 239 007 007. www.csa.cz
Danube Wings
www.danubewings.com
easyJet www.easyjet.com
Lufthansa
www.lufthansa.co.uk
Ryanair www.ryanair.com
Bratislavas airport is 12 km
(7 miles) from the city centre;
the bus journey (on bus no.
61) takes 30 minutes and a Glazed interior at Bratislava tefnika airport
taxi takes 15 minutes.
Viennas airport, 50 km promotions that are, from BY COACH
(31 miles) from Bratislava, time to time, offered by vari-
operates a regular bus service ous airlines, for selected You can get to both the
to the Slovak capital. routes. Usually, it is worth Czech and Slovak Republics
booking the ticket well in by coach operated by one of
OTHER SLOVAK AIRPORTS advance. The Internet is a the international carriers who
good starting point for shop- run scheduled services
Slovakias internal airports ping around for a good deal. between main European
are in Bratislava, ilina, cities. Travelling by coach is
Koice, Pietany, Slia and LOW-COST AIRLINES generally less expensive than
Poprad-Tatry (5 km/ by air, but it may sometimes
3 miles from Poprad). Both Low-cost airlines offer a good be less comfortable, and
Czech Airlines and Air range of deals on above all takes
Slovakia serve these airports. flights to Prague, much longer. The
Brno, Bratislava coaches on inter-
TICKET PRICES and Krakow in national routes
Poland, and the are generally well
Prices of air tickets vary number of routes equipped with air
tremendously: they depend is increasing all the conditioning and
on the airline, the time of time. For the have reclining
year, the type of ticket lowest fares you A welcome to visitors at seats. Further
(open or with a fixed return should book via tefnika airport details are availa-
date), the validity period, and the Internet as far ble from the
many other factors, as well as in advance as possible. operator before you book. It
where you purchase the Flights generally do not is worth taking a blanket or a
ticket. Most airlines offer include in-flight meals, sleeping bag with you and, for
special concessions for although refreshments are a cold night, a flask filled with
children; some also offer usually sold on board. a hot drink.
reductions to families and A useful website for checking
group travellers. It is also the latest low-cost routes is BY TRAIN
worth looking for special www.flycheapo.com.
Train travel offers more
comfortable conditions than
travel by coach (particularly
if you travel in a sleeper/
couchette), but it should be
stressed that standard fares
on international train routes
are usually very high the
cost of such a journey may
not be much lower than
travelling by air, for example.
The cost can be considerably
reduced if you buy discounted
international tickets well in
advance, or with passes for
travellers under 26 or for
those over 60. Details and
application forms for such
passes can be obtained from
ticket offices at international
Bratislava tefnika airport exterior railway stations.
426 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
RAILWAY STATIONS
DIRECTORY
TRAIN TRAVEL
D (esk drhy)
Tel +420 840 112 113.
(Also in English.)
www.cd.cz
Czech country road
428 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
WALKING
BICYCLES
General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to Il Bambino di Praga 67 Boleslav I, Prince 33
main entries. Banks 418, 420 Boleslav II, Prince 56, 101
Bansk Bystrica 307, 31013 Bono publico (Hradec Krlov) 200
A events 257, 258 Boivoj, Prince 56
Abbeys see Monasteries and convents hotels 362 Boroviec, tpn 173
Academia Istropolitana (Bratislava) map 311 Boskovice 225, 2323
279, 286 restaurants 3923 Bossanyi, Michal 322
Accommodation see Agritourism; Bansk tiavnica 314 Botanical Gardens and Zoo (Liberec) 183
Camp sites; Hostels; Hotels; hotels 362 Bouzov
Pensions; Private Homes Barbican and Town Walls (Bansk hotels 355
Act of Tolerance 39 Bystrica) 308, 310 restaurants 387
Adalbert, St 33, 101 Bardejov 254, 325, 333 Bouzov Castle 117, 22021
Adam II of Hradec 144 hotels 364 Brahe, Tycho 76
Admission prices 413, 415 Barkczy, Franco, Summer Palace Brandl, Petr 40
Adria Palace (Prague) 88 (Bratislava) 255 Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Adrpach-Teplice Rocks 210 Baroque architecture (Hradec Krlov) 198
Agriculture, Czech Republic 19 Czech Republic 21 Cathedral of the Holy Ghost
Agritourism 343 Slovakia 255 (Hradec Krlov) 198
Air travel 424, 425 Bart, Jozef 250 Church of St James (Prague) 76
Albrechtice 140 Bartk, Bla 283 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 56
Ale, Mikol 42 Bassevi, Hendela 81 St Barbara (Mantn) 173
George of Podbrady and Matthias Bata, Tom 239 St Georges Basilica and Convent
Corvinus 102 Batan, Kristf 289 (Prague) 57
Old Town Hall (Prague) 75 Bthory, Elizabeth 300301 Bratislava 249, 27289
Red Heart House (Plze) 162 Batka, Jn Nepomuk 284 airport 425
Star Hunting Lodge (Prague) 101 Batthyny, Archbishop Jozef 277, 278 City of Coronations 2645
torch House (Prague) 72 Battle for Freedom and Democracy events 2569
U Rotta (Prague) 72 Day 30 getting around 275, 431
Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100 Beaufort, Alfred de 173 history 2645, 273
Wiehl House (Prague) 88 Bechyn 140 hotels 3589
Ale South Bohemian Gallery Beckov Castle 290, 293, 301 maps: Exploring Bratislava 2745
(Hlubok nad Vltavou) 135, 140 Beov Castle and Palace 173 maps: Street-by-Street: Old Town
Alexander I, Tsar 207, 232 Beer 96, 139, 163, 167, 370 2767
Alexander III, Tsar 241 shopping for 397, 399 restaurants 39091
Alliprandi, Giovanni 21, 202, 210 Beethoven Museum (Doln Krup) Bratislava Castle 273, 278
Amadeus (film) 73, 84, 240 295 Bratislava City Marathon 256
Amber Route 278 Bela IV, King of Hungary 287 Bratislava Golf and Country Club 289
Anabaptists 288 Belvedere (Prague) 57 Bratislava Jazz Days 258, 403
Andrssy family 255, 336 Bender, Vclav 217 Bratislava Music Festival 258, 403
Andrej Bagar Theatre (Nitra) 304 Bendl, Jan 83 Braun, Matthias Bernhard 24, 40, 195
Andrew II, King of Hungary 279, 284 Bene, Edvard 44, 45, 46, 141, 295 Betlm 210
Andrew III, King of Hungary 273 Beneov nad Plounic 190 Church of St Stephen (Prague) 92
Anglo-Czech Bank (Ostrava) 222 hotels 349 Duchov Palace 192
Antiques, shopping for 397, 399 Berlinka caf (Bratislava) 282 Dvok Museum (Prague) 92
Archbishops Palace (Koice) 330 Bernolk, Anton 263 Hohenstein Palace (Prague) 63
Archbishops Palace (Krom) 24041 Bernolkovo 289 Holy Trinity Church (Kuks) 210
Archbishops Palace (Prague) 62 Beroun, restaurants 378 Nov Msto Castle 197, 211
Architecture Beskydy mountains 213 Plague Column (Liberec) 182
Czech Republic 2021 Bethlen, Gbor 311 St Georges Basilica and Convent
Slovakia 2545, 315 Betlm 210 (Prague) 57
Arion Fountain (Olomouc) 218 Betliar hunting lodge 255, 336 St Jude 56
Arpad family 284 Bianco, Giovanni 211 St Luitgard 69
Art Bibiena, A G 255 Betislav II, Prince 202
Czech 245 Bicycles 430, 431 Bevnov Monastery (Prague) 101
Art galleries see Museums and Biennale of Illustration (Bratislava) 258 Brewing Museum (Plze) 163
galleries Blek, Frantiek, The Blind 102 Brezno, restaurants 393
Art Nouveau 245 Bishops Palace (Hradec Krlov) 198 Brezov pod Bradlom 295
in Prague 97 Bishops Palace (Spisk Kapitula) 339 Brixi, Frantiek 23
ArtFilm Festival (Trenianske Btov 236 Brno 225, 22831
Teplice) 257 Black Tower (esk Budjovice) 1389 events 28, 30
Assicurazioni Building (Prague) 89 Black Tower (Klatovy) 166 hotels 3567
Astronomical Clock (Olomouc) 212, The Blind (Blek) 102 map 229
219 Bohemia see Central Bohemia; East restaurants 388
Astronomical Clock (Prague) 42, 75 Bohemia; North Bohemia; South Broggio, Ottavio 190, 192
ATMs 418, 420 Bohemia; West Bohemia Brokof, Ferdinand Maxmilian 24, 40,
Augustinian Monastery (Brno) 229 Bohemia and Moravia Protectorate 45 62, 63, 68, 76
Austerlitz, Battle of 41, 232, 265, 278 Bohemian Paradise see esk rj Brokof, Jan 193
Austro-Hungarian Empire 41, 44, 251, Boh, Peter Michal 263 Brok, Vclav 91, 95
263, 266 Jan Francisi: Captain of Slovak Brunswick Palace (Doln Krup) 253,
Avars 261 Insurgents 260 295
Boii tribe 33 Buchlovice Chateau 239
B Bojnice Budovec, Vclav 125
Bach, J S 210 events 256 Budvar Brewery (esk Budjovice)
Bagpipe festivals 29, 157, 259 hotels 362 138, 139, 370
Balcarka Cave 233 Bojnice Castle 307, 32021 Bullo, G B 198
G E N E R A L I N D E X 433
Bureaus de change 418, 420 Castles and fortifications (cont) Cathedrals (cont)
Burian Tower (ilina) 322 Mikulov Castle 238 St Nicholas (Trnava) 292, 296
Buses 427, 429, 430, 431 Mlad Boleslav Castle 125 St Nicholas (Znojmo) 238
Nchod Castle 210 St Peter and St Paul (Brno) 228
C Nelahozeves Castle 1267 St Stephan (Litomice) 190
achtice Castle 3001 Nitra Castle 304 St Vitus (Prague) 50, 54, 589
Caesar Fountain (Olomouc) 219 Nov Hrady Castle 1467 St Wenceslas (Olomouc) 215, 217
Caf Tramvaj 11 (Prague) 89 Nov Msto Castle 197, 211 Caves
Cage of Disgrace (Levoa) 334 Nov Zmky 2623, 291, 305 Balcarka Cave 233
ak, Mat 301, 320 Old and New Castles (Bansk cave exploration 407
Camp sites 343 tiavnica) 314 Jaskya Domica 336
Canoeing 405, 408, 409 Opono Castle 211 Jasovsk Jaskya 250, 337
apek, Josef 199 Oravsky Castle 307, 315 Javosk Caves 220
apek, Karel 27 Pajtn Castle 288 Kateinska Cave 233
Car hire 427, 429 Pardubice Castle 205 Konprusk 130
Cardinal Cesis Garden in Rome (van Perntejn Castle 225, 234 Punkva Caves 18, 233
Cleve) 60 Plaveck Castle 294 The Celebration of the Holy Trinity
Carolinum (Prague) 73, 84, 93 Pluhv dr Castle 141 (Palko) 65
Carpathian range 252 Podbrady Castle 124 Celetn Street (Prague) 73, 76
see also Small Carpathians Prague Castle 547 Cemeteries
Casanova, Giacomo 192, 193 Pimda Castle 159, 168 Jewish Cemetery (Boskovice) 233
aslav 204 Pusty Fortress (Zvolen) 314 Jewish Cemetery (Brno) 237
ast 287 Rab fortress 148, 157 Jewish Cemetery (Lede nad
Castle Theatre (esk Krumlov) 1545 Romberk nad Vltavou Castle 147, Szavou) 203
Castles and fortifications 149 Jewish Cemetery (Senica) 294
Barbican and Town Walls (Bansk auntejn Castle 189 Jewish Cemetery (Terezn) 191
Bystrica) 308, 310 Seeberg Castle 172 Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 8081
Bechyn Castle 137, 140 Small Fortress (Terezn) 19091 St Andrews Cemetery (Bratislava) 284
Beckov Castle 290, 293, 301 Smolenice Castle 294 Slavn Hill (Bratislava) 284
Beov Castle and Palace 173 pilberk (Brno) 23031 Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100
Beneov Castles (Beneov nad Spi Castle 257, 2689 Central Bohemia 11833
Plounic) 190 Sternberg Castle (Central Bohemia) getting around 121
Btov Castle 236 1289, 131 hotels 34950
Bojnice Castle 256, 307, 32021 ternberk Castle (North Moravia) 221 map 12021
Boskovice Castle 232 Strakonice Castle 157 restaurants 3789
Bouzov Castle 117, 22021 Stekov Castle 15, 191 Central Slovak Museum (Bansk
Bratislava Castle 273, 278 Stupava Castle 287 Bystrica) 31011
achtice Castle 3001 vihov Castle 159, 166 Central Slovakia 30623
erven Lhota Castle 141 Tonk Castle 127 getting around 309
erven Kame 2867 Topoliansk Castle 300 hotels 3624
Cheb Castle 169 Tovarniky Castle 304 map 3089
Chod Castle (Domalice) 168 Tebo Castle 146 restaurants 3924
Dn Castle 178, 187 Trenn Castle 301, 3023 Ceramics, shopping for 3967, 399
Devn Castle 285 Trosky Castle 207 ermnov, Marie see Toyen
Dobrovodsk Castle 295 Valdtejn Castle 206 ern Lake 159, 166
Fortifications (Josefov) 211 Velhartice Castle 148, 158, 166 ernin, Count Humprecht 207
Frdlant Castle 186 Vrchlab Castle 208 ernn Palace (Prague) 623
Helftn Castle 223 Vyehrad (Prague) 100 ern Dl, restaurants 385
Hlubok Castle 135, 136, 140 Water Fortress (Jesenk) 221 ertovo Lake 159, 166
Hol Castle 295 dar Castle (dr nad Szavou) 234 erven Lhota, restaurants 380
Horovsk Tn Castle 168 irovnice Castle 141 erven Lhota Castle 141
Hradec nad Moravic Castle 222 leby Castle 204 erven Kame 2867
Hranice Castle 223 Znojmo Castle 238 erven Kltor, restaurants 393
Hrub Skal Castle 14, 207 umberk fortress 147 erven Kltor Museum 317
Jindichv Hradec Castle 1445 Zvkov Castle 157 esk Lpa 187
Kada Castle 193 Zvolen Castle 270, 308, 314 esk Budjovice 34, 1389
Karltejn Castle 119, 1323 see also Palaces hotels 350
Kemarok Castle 333 astolovice Palace 117, 211 map 139
Kokon Castle 125 Catacombs (Jihlava) 235 restaurants 380
Konopit Castle 119, 131, 131 Catacombs (Klatovy) 166 esk vcarsko 116, 179, 1889
Kost Castle 206 Cathedrals eskomoravsk Vysoina 18
Krsna Hrka Castle 327, 336 Assumption of the Virgin Mary esk Kras 119, 130
Kivoklt Castle 118, 127 (st nad Labem) 191 esk Krumlov 17, 11415, 116, 134,
Krumlov Castle (esk Krumlov) Holy Ghost (Hradec Krlov) 196, 135, 15255
134, 153 198, 200 events 29
Kuntick Hora Castle 205 St Barbara (Kutn Hora) 1223 hotels 35051
Kynvart Castle 169 St Bartholomew (Plze) 20, 158, map 153
Landtejn Castle 146 1645 restaurants 38081
Lede Castle 203 St Elizabeths (Koice) 254, 328, esk rj 194, 195, 2067
Lemberk Castle 187 33031 esk Tn, theatre festival 28
Levice Castle 305 St Emeram (Nitra) 304 Charles IV, Emperor 345
Liberec Castle 183 St John the Baptist (Trnava) 2989 Charles VI, Emperor 206
Lipnice Castle 203 St Martin (Bratislava) 254, 265, 28081 Charles Bridge (Prague) 24, 689
Loket Castle 17071, 173 St Martin (Spisk Kapitula) 251, 339 Charles Square (Prague) 87, 93
Mlnk Castle 126 St Nicholas (esk Budjovice) 139 Charles Street (Prague) 83
434 G E N E R A L I N D E X
Frantikovy Lzn 159, 172 Habsburg, Archduke Eugene 221 Hotels (cont)
hotels 352 Habsburg dynasty 33, 3941, 44, 2626 Prague 3449
restaurants 382 Hacha, Emil 45 South Bohemia 35052
Franz I, Emperor 172, 207, 278 Handicrafts South Moravia 3567
Franz II, Emperor 40, 41, 232, 265 Handicraft Exhibition (Kemarok) 257 West Bohemia 3523
Franz Ferdinand, Archduke 44, 131, 191 shopping for 397, 399 West Slovakia 36061, 3912
Franz Joseph I, Emperor 41, 159, 241, Slovak 255 House at the Chalice (Litomice) 190
263 Hansen, Theophil von 333 House at the Good Shepherd
Franzensbad see Frantikovy Lzn Hanu, Master 219 (Bratislava) 283
Frederick II, Emperor 34 Harbuval de Chamar, Count Jean House at the Two Golden Bears
Frederick William III, King of Prussia Antonn 202 (Prague) 72
207 Harrach, Count Frantiek Arnot 205 House of the Black Madonna
Freud, Sigmund 169, 222 Harrach, Ferdinand Bonaventura 220 (Prague) 76
Fri, Martin 27 Harrachov 208 Hrabal, Bohumil 17, 27
Friedel, Theodore 184 Hartmann, Josef 332 Hradansk Square 53, 62
Frdlant 186 Haek, Jaroslav 27, 203 Hradany and Mal Strana (Prague)
restaurants 384 Hat Museum (Nov Jin) 223 5269
Fugger, Anton 287 Hauberisser, Georg von 221 hotels 3445
Fujara 255 Havel, Vclav 17, 27, 47, 88, 90 map 53
Functionalist architecture 21 Havel Market (Prague) 396 restaurants 3723
Frstenburg, Archbishop Bedich 217 Havlkv Brod 203 Hradec Krlov 195, 198201
restaurants 385 hotels 354
G Haydn, Joseph 192, 265 map 199
Galanta 304 Head of Christ (El Greco) 61 restaurants 3856
Gans, David 80 Health 41617 Street-by-Street map: Old Town
The Garden of Eden (1618) (Savery) 61 Heermann, Johann Georg 104 200201
Gartner, Jakub 297 Hefele, Melchior 277, 278 Hradec, Lords of 135, 144
Gasparovi, Ivan 267 Heinsch, Jan Ji 76, 92
Hradec nad Moravic Castle 222
Gay and lesbian travellers 401, 403 Hrdek u Nechanic Palace 205
Hejnice 186
Gehry, Frank 93 Hranice 223
Helftn Castle 223
George of Podbrady, King 37, 38, Hensko, hotels 353
Helmer, Hermann 174, 175, 182, 282
124, 131, 221 Hronsky Beadik Abbey 323
Henry IV, Emperor 33
George of Podbrady and Matthias Hrub Skal Castle 14, 207
Herscher, Josef 173
Corvinus (Ale) 102 Hrznsk Palace (Prague) 76
Heydrich, Reinhard 45, 96
Gerlachov Huber, Leopold 139
Hiking 404, 407
hotels 362 Hukvaldy, music festival 29
Hillebrandt, Franz A 282, 294
restaurants 393 Humenn, folk festival 257
History
Gerlachovsk tt 253, 258, 317 Hummel, Johann Nepomuk 277
Czech Republic 3347
Germans Humprecht hunting lodge (near
Slovak Republic 2617
expulsion of German speakers 15, Sobotka) 207
16, 46 Hitchhiking 427, 429 Hungary
settlers 34, 179, 195, 262 Hitler, Adolf 45, 249 Bratislava as capital of 262, 2645,
Gerulata Museum (Rusovce) 285 Hlalol Choir Building (Prague) 86 273, 280
Ghetto Museum and Magdeburg Hlavn (Koice) 271, 328, 330, 331 Slovak relations with 248
Barracks (Terezn) 191 Hlavn nmestie (Bratislava) 276 Slovakia under Hungarian rule 247,
Glass 25 Hlubok nad Vltavou 140 2613, 266
Decorative Arts Museum (Prague) 82 hotels 351 Hus, Jan 26, 35, 36, 37
shopping for 3967 Holaovice 156 monument (Brezov pod Bradlom)
Gmaitel, tefan 279 Hol 2945 295
Gor, Josef Holy Ghost Cathedral (Hradec monument (Prague) 72
Anglo-Czech Bank (Ostrava) 222 Krlov) 196, 198, 200 statue (Louny) 180
Church of St Wenceslas (Prague- Holy Roman Empire 334 Husk, Gustv 47, 267
Vrovice) 21 Holy Trinity Column (Olomouc) 216, Hussite movement 35, 367, 38, 93,
House of the Black Madonna 218 135, 142, 262
(Prague) 76 Holy Trinity Square (Trnava) 291, 297 Hussite Museum (Tbor) 142
Hradec Krlov 198, 199 Horn nmesti (Olomouc) 216 Hutka, Jaromr 23
Gode, Ludovit 277, 289 Street-by-Street map 21819 Hynais, Vojtch 43, 91, 95
Godyn, Abraham 104 Horowitz, Aaron Meshulam 82
Goethe 159, 169, 173, 192 Horse racing 30, 205 I
Golden Lane (Prague) 55, 57 Horse riding 407 Ice climbing 407
Golf 289, 405, 408 Horovsk Tn 168 Ice hockey 406, 409
Gothic architecture 20 hotels 352 Illshzy family 293, 301
Gottwald, Klement 46 restaurants 382 Imperial Baths (Karlovy Vary) 174
Grand Hotel Europa (Prague) 89, 90 Hospitals 416, 417 Insurance, travel 416, 417
Grand Meal (Medek) 103 Hotalkov House (atec) 193 Internet services 422, 423
Grand Seminary (Nitra) 304 Hostels 3423
Grassalkovich Palace (Bratislava) 284 Hotel Meran (Prague) 97 J
Great Moravian Empire 33, 225, 228, Hotels 34265 Jablonn v Podjetd 1867
261, 273, 300 general information 3423 Jger, Josef 202
Groll, A 184 Central Bohemia 34950 Jagiellonian dynasty 389
Gypsies 179 Central Slovakia 3624 Jan II of Liechtenstein 221
East Bohemia 3545 Jan Adam of Liechtenstein 220
H East Slovakia 3645 Jan Francisi: Captain of Slovak
Haban Houses (Velk Levre) 2889 North Bohemia 3534 Insurgents (Boh) 260
Habans 255, 2889 North Moravia and Silesia 3556 Janek, Leo 23, 29
G E N E R A L I N D E X 437
Liptovsk Jn, hotels 3623 Maps (cont) Medek, Mikul, Grand Meal 103
Liptovsk Mikul 316 East Slovakia 3267 Medzev 337
hotels 363 Hradec Krlov: Old Town 2001 Medzilaborce 332
Literature, Czech 267 Hradec Krlov: Town Centre 199 hotels 365
Litomice 190 Karlovy Vary 175 Mlnk 126
hotels 354 Koice 329 hotels 350
restaurants 384 Koice: Around St Elizabeths restaurants 379
Litomice, Master of 77, 190 Cathedral 33031 Mendel, Gregor 229
Litomyl 29, 195, 202 Krkonoe 2089 Menus 367
hotels 355 Liberec 183 Menzel, Jii 27
restaurants 386 North Bohemia 18081 Methodius, St 26, 33, 96, 261
Little Quarter Square (Prague) 667 North Moravia and Silesia 21415 Metro, Prague 430
Loket 17071, 1723 Nov Msto 87 Metzner, Franz 182
hotels 353 Olomouc: Horn nmst 21819 Michaels Gate (Bratislava) 265, 276,
restaurants 383 Olomouc: Town Centre 217 279
Lomnick tt 309, 317 Plze 163 Middle Ages, architecture 254
Loreto (Prague) 62 Prague: Around Wenceslas Square Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 225, 229
Lsi, Imrich, Archbishop of 889 Mikulov 225, 237, 238
Esztergom 298 Prague: At a Glance 5051 hotels 357
Louis I, King of Hungary 288, 301 Prague: Hradany and Mal Strana 53 Mill Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Vary)
Louis Jagiello, King 389, 262 Prague: Prague Castle 545 15, 160, 175
Louny 192 Prague: Star Msto 723 Miluni, Vlado 93
restaurants 384 Prague: Star Msto and Josefov 71 Mineral water 371
Lw, Rabbi 79, 80 Prague: Street Finder 10613 Mining 179, 213, 222
Low-cost airlines 425 Slovakia 2467, 27071 Mining Museum (Bansk tiavnica) 314
Luenec 323 Slovensk kras 3367 Mining Museum (Ostrava) 222
events 257 South Bohemia 1367 Mining Museum (Pbram) 13031
Ludmilla, Princess 56 South Moravia 2267 Mirbach Palace (Bratislava) 276, 279
Luggage 427, 429 The umava 1489 Mlad Boleslav
Luhaovice 239 Tbor 1423 hotels 350
Lurago, Anselmo 65 Tatras mountains 31617 restaurants 379
Lurago, Carlo 40, 130, 193 Trnava 297 Mlada, Princess 56
Assumption of the Virgin Mary West Bohemia 16061 Mladota, Count Ferdinand 93
(Hradec Krlov) 198 West Slovakia 2923 Mlyany Arboretum 323
St Ignatius (Prague) 93 Marathon, Prague 28 Mnichovo Hradit
Luxemburg dynasty 345, 38 Marcomanni tribe 33, 261 hotels 350
Maria Theresa, Empress 40, 213, 263, restaurants 379
M 2645, 273, 283 Mnichovo Hradit Palace 125
Mcha, Karel Hynek 26, 125 Marinka Shrine 288 Mocker, Joseph 58, 132
Maggi, Baldassare 145, 152 Marinsk Lzn 159, 169 Modern architecture
Maggi, G A de 154 Chopin Festival 29 Czech Republic 21
Magyars 2612 hotels 353 Slovakia 255
Mahenovo Theatre (Brno) 43, 401 restaurants 383 Modern Art Gallery (Hradec Krlov)
Mahler, Gustav 23 Marinsky Bridge (st nad Labem) 43, 199
Mail services 4223 191 Modra 286
Maillol, Aristide, Pomona 102 Marienbad see Marinsk Lzn hotels 360
Main Station (Prague) 91, 97 Market Colonnade (Karlovy Vary) 174 restaurants 391
Maisel, Mordechai 77, 79, 81 Markets Mohcs, Battle of 39, 262
Maisel Synagogue (Prague) 51, 79 Czech Republic 396 Mojmrovce Palace 3045
Makh, Lorenz 154 Slovakia 3989 Monaco, Lorenzo, The Lamentation
Makovec, Imre 300 Mrkl, Leo 154 of Christ 60
Mala Lehota, events 259 Martin 315 Monasteries and convents
Mal Strana see Hradany and Mal hotels 363 Augustinian Monastery (Brno) 229
Strana restaurants 393 Bevnov Monastery (Prague) 101
Malacky 288 Martinelli, Antonio 138 Brothers of Mercy Church and
hotels 360 Martinelli, G B 253, 282 Monastery (Bratislava) 283
restaurants 391 Martinic Palace (Prague) 62 erven Kltor 317
Mal Nmst (Hradec Krlov) 198, The Martyrdom of St Thomas Convent of St Agnes (Prague) 77
201 (Rubens) 61 Dominican Monastery (esk
Malokarpatsk Marathon (Trnava) 258 Masaryk, Jan 623 Budjovice) 138
Mnes, Josef 42 Masaryk, Tom 445, 57, 63, 266, 295 Franciscan Monastery (Plze) 163
Mantn 161, 173 Tom G Masaryk Museum (Lny) Hronsky Beadik Abbey 323
Mansfeld, Jindich Pavel 130 127 Jasov Monastery 255, 337
Maps Mathey, Jean-Baptiste 104, 176 Kladruby Monastery 159, 168,
Bansk Bystrica 311 Matica Slovenska 266 1767
Bratislava: Exploring Bratislava 2745 Matsche, Franz 174 Loreto (Prague) 62
Bratislava: Old Town 2767 Matthew of Arras 58 Marinska Shrine 288
Brno 229 Matthias II, Emperor 39, 286 Minorite Monastery (Stbro) 168
Central Bohemia 12021 Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary Osek Monastery 192
Central Slovakia 3089 279, 280 Piarist Church and Monastery
esk Budjovice 139 Matthias House (Bansk Bystrica) 310 (Podolinec) 333
esk Krumlov 153 Mauelbertsch, F A 240 Plasy Monastery 159, 161, 176
esk rj 2067 Maximilian I, Emperor 39 Porta Coeli convent (Tinov) 224, 234
Czech Republic 1213, 11617 Maximilian II, Emperor 39 St Georges Basilica and Convent
East Bohemia 1967 Measures 413, 415 (Prague) 55, 567
G E N E R A L I N D E X 439
Monasteries and convents (cont) Museums and galleries (cont) Museums and galleries (cont)
Szava Monastery 119, 121, 131 East Bohemia Regional Museum Pbor Museum 2223
Slavonic Monastery (Prague) 923 (Hradec Krlov) 199 Puppet Museum (Chrudim) 204
Strahov Monastery (Prague) 63 East Slovak Museum (Koice) 329 Radek Pila Museum (Jin) 207
Tepl Monastery 159, 177 Egon Schiele Centrum (esk Records Museum (Pelhimov) 141
Velehrad Monastery 239 Krumlov) 152 Regional Gallery (Liberec) 183
Vy Brod Monastery 147 Fire Fighters Museum (Bechyn) 140 Regional Museum (esk Lpa) 187
West Bohemian Monasteries 1767 Gallery of Arts and Crafts (Ostrava) 222 Regional Museum (esk Krumlov)
Zlat Koruna Monastery 20, 156 Gallery U Brny (tk) 190 152
Mongols 262 Gerulata Museum (Rusovce) 285 Regional Museum (Dunajsk
Montfort, Katherine de 144 Ghetto Museum and Magdeburg Streda) 300
Monument to Peace (Austerlitz) 232 Barracks (Terezn) 191 Regional Museum (Jesenk) 221
Monument to the Red Army Soldiers House of Master Pavol (Levoa) 334 Regional Museum (Jin) 207
(Bratislava) 284 Hussite Museum (Tbor) 142 Regional Museum (Koln) 124
Monument to the Victims of Jaroslava Prluika Ethnographic Regional Museum (Lede nad
Communism (Prague) 89 Museum (Hol) 294 Szavou) 203
Morava, River 18, 19 Jindich Jindich Museum Regional Museum (Levice) 305
Moravia see Great Moravian Empire; (Domalice) 168 Regional Museum (Litomice) 190
North Moravia and Silesia; South Karlovy Vary Museum 174 Regional Museum (Nov Zmky) 305
Moravia Kemarok Museum 333 Regional Museum (Preov) 332
Moravian Field, Battle of the 34 Masaryk Museum (Lny) 127 Regional Museum (Strakonice) 157
Moravian Gallery (Brno) 229 Mendelianum (Brno) 229 Rohan Gallery (Sychrov Palace) 187
Moravian National Museum (Brno) 228 Mining Museum (Bansk tiavnica) Roudnice Lobkowicz Collection
Moravian Venus 261 314 (Nelahozeves) 127
Moravsk kras 233 Mining Museum (Ostrava) 222 ari Museum (Bardejov) 315, 333
Moser of Karlovy Vary 25 Mining Museum (Pbram) 13031 efnik Museum (Koarisk) 295
Motorcycle Museum (esk Modern Art Gallery (Hradec Silesian Municipal Museum
Budjovice) 139 Krlov) 43, 199 (Opava) 221
Motorcycle Museum (Kmen) 141 Moravian Gallery (Brno) 229 Skansen (Svidnk) 333
Motorcycle sports 406 Moravian National Museum (Brno) koda Museum (Mlad Boleslav) 125
Mountain hostels 3423 228 Slovak Agricultural Museum (Nitra)
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 22, 192, 265 Motorcycle Museum (esk 270, 304
Estates Theatre (Prague) 84, 100 Budjovice) 139 Slovak National Gallery (Bratislava)
Mozart Museum (Prague) 99, 100 Motorcycle Museum (Kmen) 141 282
Mucha, Alfons Mozart Museum (Prague) 99, 100 Slovak National Museum
Art Nouveau in Prague 97 Mucha Museum (Prague) 91 (Bratislava) 278, 287
Dance 24 Municipal Gallery (Bansk Slovak National Museum in Martin 315
Mucha Museum (Prague) 91 Bystrica) 310 Slovak Village Museum (Martin) 315
Municipal House (Prague) 43, 845 Municipal Museum (Hranice) 223 Small Carpathian Museum
Music 25 Museum of Art (ilina) 322 (Pezinok) 286
St Vituss Cathedral (Prague) 58 Museum of the Battle of Dukla Smetana Museum (Prague) 83
Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100 (Svidnk) 333 SNP Museum (Bansk Bystrica) 311
Mumlov Waterfall 208 Museum of Clocks (Bratislava) 283 South Bohemia Museum (esk
Munich Agreement 45 Museum of Coins and Medals Budjovice) 139
Municipal House (Prague) 43, 73, (Kremnica) 315 South Bohemian Literature Museum
845, 401 Museum of East Bohemia (Zlat Koruna Monastery) 156
Municipal Library (Hradec Krlov) 201 (Pardubice) 205 Spa Museum (Pietany) 300
Municipal Theatre (Pardubice) 205 Museum of Ferdi Kostka (Stupava) pilberk (Brno) 23031
Museums and galleries 287 Star Hunting Lodge (Prague) 101
general information 413, 41415 Museum of Music (Bratislava) 277, 278 Sternberg Palace (Prague) 6061
Ale South Bohemian Gallery Museum of Ukraine-Ruthenian tr Museum (Modra) 286
(Hlubok nad Vltavou) 135, 140 Culture (Svidnk) 333 Teplice Museum 191
Asian art collection (Zbraslav Museum of Weapons and Town Town Museum (Marinsk Lzn) 169
Chateau) 105 Fortifications (Bratislava) 279 Trade Fair Palace (Prague) 1023
Battle of Dukla Museum (Svidnk) Museum of West Slovakia (Trnava) Trenn Museum 301
333 2967 Tn nad Vltavou Museum 141
Beethoven Museum (Doln Krup) Museum of Wine Production tk Art Gallery 190
295 (Bratislava) 277 Wallachian Open-Air Museum
Brewing Museum (Plze) 163 Music Museum (Trnava) 297 (Ronov pod Radhotm) 223
Central Slovak Museum (Bansk National Museum (Prague) 43, 89, Warhol Family Museum of Modern
Bystrica) 31011 9091 Art (Medzilaborce) 332
erven Kltor Museum 317 Nitra Museum 304 West Bohemian Museum (Plze) 163
Cheb Museum 169 North Bohemian Art Gallery Zhorsk Gallery (Senica) 294
Chod Castle and Museums (Litomice) 190 Music 4003
(Domalice) 168 North Bohemian Museum (Liberec) Czech 223
Chopin Museum (Marinsk Lzn) 183 festivals 2830, 202, 2569, 401, 403
169 Novohradsk Museum (Luenec) 323 Music (Mucha) 25
City Gallery (Bratislava) 279, 282 Nov Jin Museum 223 Music Museum (Trnava) 297
City Museum (Bratislava) 278 Olomouc Art Museum 217 Mussolini, Benito 45
Decorative Arts Museum (Prague) Porta Coeli Museum (Tinov) 234 Myslbek, Josef 42, 90, 211
81, 82 Postal Museum (Vy Brod Pemysl and Libue 25
Diocesan Museum (Litomice) 190 Monastery) 147
Dvok Museum (Prague) 92 Povask Museum (imany) 322 N
Dvoks Birthplace (Nelahozeves) Prchesk Museum (Psek) 157 Nchod 210
1267 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 54, 56 restaurants 386
440 G E N E R A L I N D E X
Ndasdy, Ferenc 300 Nov Zmky 2623, 291, 305 Palaces (cont)
Nmt na Han Palace 220 hotels 360 Brunswick Palace (Doln Krup)
Nmst Dr E Benee (Liberec) 182 restaurants 392 255, 295
Nmst Pemysla Otakara II (esk Novohradsk Museum (Luenec) 323 Buchlovice Chateau 239
Budjovice) 138 Novotn, Antonin 46 astolovice Palace 117, 211
Nmst Republiky (Plze) 163 Nov Jin 223 ernn Palace (Prague) 623
Nmst Svobody (Brno) 229 hotels 355 Ditrichstein Palace (Brno) 228
Nmst Svornosti (esk Krumlov) 152 restaurants 387 Dob Palace 119, 121, 130
Nmestie SNP (Bansk Bystrica) 31011 Nov Smokovec, restaurants 393 Duchcov Palace 192
Nmestie SNP (Bratislava) 283 Nuclear power station (Temeln) 140 Edelmann Palace (Olomouc) 218
Napoleon 40, 41, 207, 232, 265, 278, 285 Nyary, Count Karol 279 Esterhzy Palace (Bratislava) 282
Nardo di Cione 321 Grassalkovich Palace (Bratislava) 284
National Monument (ikov) 1001 O Hrdek u Nechanic Palace 205
National Museum (Prague) 43, 89, Ohrada Hunting Lodge 140 Hrznsk Palace (Prague) 76
9091 Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 8081 Jaromice nad Rokytnou Chateau 236
National parks Old Post Office (Nov Jin) 223 Karlova Koruna Palace (Chlumec
esk vcarsko 179, 1889 Old Royal Palace (Prague) 55, 56 nad Cidlinou) 206
Krkonoe National Park 195, 2089 Old Town Hall (Bratislava) 272, 277, 278 Kinsk Palace (Prague) 72
Pieniny National Park 317 Old Town Hall (Brno) 228 Klterec nad Oh Palace 193
Podyj National Park 236 Old Town Hall (Prague) 72, 745 Koruna Palace (Prague) 88
umava National Park 1489, 166 Old Town Square (Jansa) 72 Kynvart Palace (Lzn Kynvart) 169
Tatra National Park 316 Old Town Square (Prague) 72, 74 Lny Palace 127
National Revival, Czech 41, 423, 100 Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 789 Lednice Chateau 227, 238
literature of 26 Olomouc 212, 213, 21619 Lucerna Palace (Prague) 90
music of 22 hotels 3556 Mantn Palace 161, 173
Where to See the National Revival 43 map: Town Centre 217 Martinic Palace (Prague) 62
Organ Festival 30 Mirbach Palace (Bratislava) 276, 279
National Theatre (Prague) 42, 43,
restaurants 387 Mnichovo Hradit Palace 125
945, 400
Street-by-Street map: Horn nmst Mojmrovce Palace 3045
NATO 47, 251, 267
21819 Nmt na Han Palace 220
Nature reserve, Soos 159, 172
Olomouc Town Hall 216, 21819 Nov Hrady Palace 2023
Nazi regime 16, 456, 2667, 273
Onell, Jn 283 Nov Msto nad Metuj Palace 197
Church of St Cyril and St
Opava 213, 221 Old Royal Palace (Prague) 55, 56
Methodius (Prague) 96
hotels 356 Orlk Palace 157
Jewish Historical Sites 237
restaurants 387 Palace of St Anton (near Bansk
see also Slovak National Uprising
Opening hours tiavnica) 314
Nedvdice, restaurants 389
business hours 413 Plffy Palace (Bratislava) 2823
Nelahozeves 1267
museums and historic sites 413, Perntejn Palace (Litomyl) 202
restaurants 379
41415 Plumlov Palace 213, 220
Nmec, Jan 27 restaurants 366 Pemyslid Palace (Olomouc) 217
Neruda, Jan 26, 63, 100 shops 396, 398 Primates Palace (Bratislava) 265,
Nerudova Street (Prague) 63 Opera 89, 91, 202, 401 277, 2789
Neumann, Franz 184 Opono 211 Rjec nad Svitavou Chateau 233
New Bridge (Bratislava) 250, 283 hotels 355 Rkczy Palace (Preov) 332
New Town Hall (Brno) 2289 Oppenheim, Rabbi David 80 Renaissance Palace (Galanta) 304
New Town Hall (Prague) 96 Oravsk Castle 307, 315 Schwarzenburg Palace (Prague) 62
New Year 31, 259 Oravsk Podzmok, hotels 363 Slatiany Palace 204
Night transport 430 Organ Festival (Olomouc) 30 Slavkov Chateau 232
Nightlife 401, 403 Orlick mountain range 195 Sternberg (Prague) 6061
Nitra 291, 304 Orlk Palace 157 Summer Palace (Bratislava) 255
hotels 360 Oadnica, events 257 Sychrov Palace 187
restaurants 3912 Osek, restaurants 384 Tel Chateau 235
North Bohemia 17893 Osek Monastery 192 Teplice Palace 180, 191
getting around 181 Ostrava 213, 222 Thun-Hohenstein Palace (Prague) 62
hotels 3534 hotels 356 Thurzo House (Bansk Bystrica)
map 18081 restaurants 387 31011
restaurants 3845 Otakar I, King 34 Topolianky Palace 323
North Bohemian Art Gallery Otakar II (Pemysl), King 34, 127, Troja Palace (Prague) 98, 1045
(Litomice) 190 138, 156, 157, 192, 202 Uherice Chateau 236
North Bohemian Museum (Liberec) 183 pilberk (Brno) 230 Valtice Chateau 225, 227, 238
North Moravia and Silesia 21223 tomb 58 Velk Levre 289
getting around 215 Ottoman Empire 291 Velk Uherce Palace 3223
hotels 3556 Veltrusy Chateau 126
map 21415 P Vranov nad Dyj Chateau 236
restaurants 3878 Pajtn Castle 288 Wallenstein Palace (Prague) 50, 66
Nov Hrady 1467 Palaces Zbraslav Chateau (Prague) 105
Nov Hrady Palace 2023 Adria Palace (Prague) 88 see also Castles and fortifications
Nov Msto (Prague) 8696 Archbishops Palace (Koice) 330 Palach, Jan 46, 47, 90
hotels 3467 Archbishops Palace (Krom) 2401 memorial (Prague) 89
map 87 Archbishops Palace (Prague) 62 Plffy, Count Jan Frantiek 264, 32021
restaurants 3767 Beov Castle and Palace 173 Plffy, Marshal Leopold 283
Nov Msto (Prague) (cont) Bernolkovo Palace 289 Plffy family 286, 287, 288, 294
Street-by-Street map: Around Bishops Palace (Hradec Krlov) 198 Plffy Palace (Bratislava) 2823
Wenceslas Square 889 Bishops Palace (Spisk Kapitula) 339 Palko, Franz, The Celebration of the
Nov Msto nad Metuj 211 Boskovice Chateau 2323 Holy Trinity 65
G E N E R A L I N D E X 441
Road travel 427, 429 Szava Monastery 119, 121, 131 Slovensk kras 252, 271, 325
Rock climbing 404, 407 Schauberger, Jan J 216 A Tour of the Slovensk kras 3367
Rock towns, Ardpach-Teplice Rocks Schiele, Egon 152 restaurants 395
210 Schikaneder, Jakub, Evening in Slovensk rj 325
Rohae 271 Hradany 102 Small Carpathian Museum (Pezinok) 286
Rohsky Waterfall 316 Schmidt, Anton 313 Small Carpathians 291, 292, 294, 295
Roma (Gypsies) 248 Schnirch, Bohuslav 94 Smetana, Bedich 22, 28, 29, 42
Romanesque architecture 20 Scholar in his Study (Rembrandt) 61 The Bartered Bride 156
Romans 33, 261, 285, 291, 301 Schpf, Jan Adam 138 Smetana Hall (Municipal House,
Rondel (Jindichv Hradec) 144 Schulz, Josef 90, 94 Prague) 85
Rottmayr, Johann Michal 236 Schwarz, Tom 64 Smetana Museum (Litomyl) 202
Roudnice nad Labem, restaurants 379 Schwarzenberg, Prince Josef Adam 154 Smetana Museum (Prague) 83
Royal Garden (Prague) 57 Schwarzenberg Canal 149 Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100
Romberk family 38, 135, 141, 146, Schwarzenberg family 135, 140, 152, Smetanova Litomyl International
147, 152, 153 157 Opera Festival 29
Romberk nad Vltavou Schwarzenberg Mausoleum (near Smoking, in restaurants 367
Castle 147, 149 Tebo) 146 Smokovce 307
hotels 351 Schwarzenburg Palace (Prague) 62 Smolenice Castle 294
Ronava, hotels 365 Secession movement 97 Snka 209
Ronov pod Radhotm 213, 223 Seeberg Castle 172 Sninsk Crag 332
Rubens, Peter Paul 56, 127, 282 Senec 289 Snowboarding 404, 407, 409
The Martyrdom of St Thomas 61 hotels 361 Sobslav 141
Rudolfinum (Prague) 43, 82, 401 restaurants 392 Sobotka 207
Rudolph I, Emperor 105 Senica 294 Sochor, E 216
Rudolph II, Emperor 39 Servadori, G N 130 Sokol Movement 97
Csask dm (Plze) 162 Shopping 3969 Sokolovsk Nmst (Liberec) 182
Prague Castle Picture Gallery 56 Shrovetide 259 Solimena, Francesco 64
Svt Jur 286 Sigismund of Luxemburg, Emperor Solivar (Preov) 332
Rural architecture, Slovak 315 35, 367, 301 Soos Nature Reserve 159, 172
Rusovce 285 Silesia see North Moravia and Silesia Souches, Louis de 305
Ruomberok Silesian Municipal Museum (Opava) 221 South Bohemia 13457
hotels 363 Singing Fountain (Koice) 328, 330 getting around 137
restaurants 393 Skiing 404, 407, 409 hotels 35052
Ruzyn Airport (Prague) 424 koch House (Tbor) 142 map 1367
Ryba, Jan Jakub 22 koda 125, 162 restaurants 38082
Rychnov nad Knnou 386 krta, Karel 40, 64, 67, 186 South Bohemia Museum (esk
Slan, restaurants 379 Budjovice) 139
S Slatiany Palace 204 South Bohemian Literature Museum
St Barbaras Cathedral (Kutn Hora) Slavn Monument (Bratislava) 284 (Zlat Koruna Monastery) 156
1223 Slavkov Chateau 232 South Gardens (Prague Castle) 55, 57
St Cyril (Bart) 248 Slavkov u Brna 232 South Moravia 22439
St Elizabeth (Master Theodoric) 24 restaurants 389 getting around 226
St Huberts Day (Pibylina) 258 Slavonic Monastery (Emauzy) hotels 3567
St Jude (Braun) 56 (Prague) 923 map 2267
St Luitgard (Braun) 69 Slavonice 146 restaurants 3889
St Martins Cathedral (Bratislava) 254, hotels 351 Soviet Union 15, 467
28081 Slobslav I 56 pla, Vclav 199
St Matthews Fair (Prague) 31 Slovak Agricultural Museum (Nitra) Spanish Synagogue (Prague) 77
St Nicholas Square (Trnava) 296 270, 304 Spas 159, 174, 405, 408
St Vituss Cathedral (Prague) 50, 54, Slovak National Gallery (Bratislava) 282 Spa Museum (Pietany) 300
589 Slovak National Museum (Bratislava) Spazzi, Pietro and Antonio 296
St Wenceslas and St Vitus (Spranger) 32 278, 287 Spazzio di Lancio, Marco 186
aldy, Divadlo F X 182 Slovak National Museum in Martin 315 Spech, Martin 279
Sales, seasonal 396 Slovak National Theatre (Bratislava) Spezza, Andrea 66
Sm na javisku (Trenin) 256 255, 282 pilberk (Brno) 23031
Samo, Prince 33, 261 Slovak National Uprising (1944) 251, pillar, Karel 84
Samsons Fountain (esk Budjovice) 267, 283, 307, 310 pindlerv Mln 209
138, 139 SNP Museum (Bansk Bystrica) 311 restaurants 386
Santini, Giovanni 40, 195 Slovak Paradise see Slovensk rj Spinetti, G M 154
Bishops Palace (Hradec Krlov) 198 Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra 402 Spirits and liqueurs 371
Chlum sv. M 172 Slovak Village Museum (Martin) 315 Spi Castle 2689, 325, 3389
Church of Our Lady (Ktiny) 232 Slovakia tournament 257, 339
Karlova Koruna Palace (Chlumec Bratislava 27289 Spisk Kapitula 251, 339
nad Cidlinou) 206 Central Slovakia 30623 Spisk Nov Ves
Mantn Palace 173 East Slovakia 32439 hotels 365
Marinsky Tnec 177 history 2617 restaurants 395
Santini, Giovanni (cont) hotels 35865 Spisk Star Ves, restaurants 395
Plasy Monastery 176 maps 2467, 27071 Spiske Podhradie
dar Castle and St John Nepomuk Portrait of 24955 hotels 365
Church (dr nad Szavou) 234 restaurants 39095 restaurants 395
ari Muzeum (Bardejov) 315, 333 Through the Year 2569 pork, Count Frantiek Antonn 195, 210
auntejn Castle 189 Slovakia (cont) Sport and leisure 4049
Savery, Roleandt, The Garden of Eden travel 4245, 4289 Spranger, Bartholomeus 56, 57
(1618) 61 West Slovakia 290305 The Resurrection of Christ 55
Szava, hotels 350 Slovensk Rudohorie mountains 252, 336 St Wenceslas and St Vitus 32
G E N E R A L I N D E X 443
pulak House (Hradec Krlov) 198 Swimming 31, 256 Thurzo House (Bansk Bystrica) 31011
Srch, restaurants 386 Sychrov Palace 187 Thurzo House (Levoa) 252, 334
Srn 148 Synagogues Tickets
Stachy, restaurants 381 Former Synagogue (Hradec air tickets 425
Stadler, V 299 Krlov) 199, 201 entertainment 400, 402
Stalin, Josef 46 Former Synagogue (Koice) 329 train tickets 426, 428
Star Hunting Lodge (Prague) 101 Grand Synagogue (Boskovice) 233, Time zone 415
Star Lesn, hotels 365 237 Tipping, in restaurants 366
Star Hory, hotels 363 Great Synagogue (Plze) 116, 162 Tinov 234
Star Msto and Josefov (Prague) 7285 Jewish Historical Sites 237 restaurants 389
hotels 3456 Lede nad Szavou 203 Tiso, Monsignor Josef 267, 284
map 71 Louny 192 Titian
restaurants 3735 Luenec 323 Archbishops Palace (Krom) 240
Star Msto Street-by-Street map 723 Maisel (Prague) 51, 79 The Toilet of a Young Lady 56
Star Msto Bridge Tower (Prague) 69 Malacky 288 Tonk Castle 127
Stark House (Tbor) 143 Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 789 The Toilet of a Young Lady (Titian) 56
Star Smokovec 317 Pinkas Synagogue (Prague) 80, 82 Topolianky Palace 323
hotels 363 Rear (New) Synagogue (Teb) Topoliansky Castle 300
restaurants 393 235, 237 Torso (Penek) 103
State Opera (Prague) 89, 91 Senec 289 Tourist information 412, 414
State Theatre (Koice) 329 Spanish Synagogue (Prague) 77 Tourist tax 343
Stations 4267, 428 Stupava 287 Tours by car
Prague Main Station 51, 91 Trnava 297 esk rj 2067
tech, Rudolf 162 Zadn/Nov Synagogue (Teb) 235 Slovensk kras 3367
tefnik, General Milan Rastislav Szalatnai-Slatinsk, Artur 297 The umava 1489
monumental tomb 296 Tovrniky Castle 304
efnik Museum (Koarisk) 295 T Town halls
Steinfels, Johann Jakob 172 Tbor 135, 1423 Jewish Town Hall (Prague) 77
Stella, Paolo della 57 hotels 351 Levoa town hall 254, 3345
Stephen I, St, King of Hungary 262 restaurants 3812 Liberec town hall 181, 1845
Sternberg, Count 104 Taborites 36 New Town Hall (Brno) 2289
Sternberg, Franz Josef 60 Tatra National Park 316 New Town Hall (Prague) 96
Sternberg Castle (Central Bohemia) Tatransk Lomnica Old Town Hall (Bratislava) 272,
1289, 131 hotels 3634 277, 278
ternberk Castle (North Moravia) 221 restaurants 394 Old Town Hall (Brno) 228
Sternberg Chapel (Plze) 165 Tatras mountains 249, 252, 253, 307, Old Town Hall (Prague) 72, 745
Sternberg Palace (Prague) 6061 31617 Olomouc town hall 216, 21819
Sternberg-Phipps, Franziska Diana 211 map 31617 Toyen 25
ternberk, hotels 356 Taxis 430, 431 Trade Fair Palace (Prague) 1023
Stoppard, Tom 239 Tel 225, 226, 235 Trains see Rail travel
torch House (Prague) 72 hotels 357 Trams 430, 431
Strahov Monastery (Prague) 63 restaurants 389 Transport 42431
Strakonice 157 Telephone services 4223 Travellers cheques 419, 420
restaurants 381 Temeln 140 Teb 225, 235
Strnice 29 Temperatures 31, 259 hotels 357
trbsk Pleso Tencalla, Giovanni Pietro 216 restaurants 389
hotels 363 Tennis 405, 406, 408, 409 Tebo 135, 146
restaurants 394 Tepl Monastery 159, 177 hotels 352
Stekov Castle 15, 191 Teplice 191 restaurants 382
Stbro 168 hotels 354 Tebo, Master of 77, 140
Studnini hora 209 restaurants 3845 Trenianske Teplice 291, 301
Stummer family 300 Terchov, events 257 events 257
Stupava 287 Terezn 45, 82, 19091 hotels 361
tr, Ludovt 263, 285 Teutonic Knights 221 restaurants 392
tr Museum (Modra) 286 Theatre Trenn 291, 301, 3023
Sturmer, Josef 216 Czech Republic 27, 400 events 256
trovo, hotels 361 festivals 28, 30, 256 hotels 361
Sucharda, Stanislav 91 Slovakia 402 Musical Spring Festival 256
Sudetenland 45, 182, 266 Theft 416, 417 restaurants 392
Suk, Josef 23 Theimer, Ivan 218 Trizulijak, Alexander 284
umava Mountains 18, 135, 1489, 159 Theodoric, Master 56, 77, 132 Trnava 249, 291, 2969
umava National Park 1489, 166 St Elizabeth 24 events 257, 258
Summer Countryside with Chapel 55 Thirty Years War 33, 39, 40, 56, 157 hotels 361
Summer Palace (Bratislava) 255 East Bohemia 195 Musical Spring Festival 256
Sunny Lakes resort 289 Frdlant Castle 186 map 297
Sunshine 29, 257 Jin 2067 Troja Palace (Prague) 98, 1045
Sv. Jan pod Skalou 130 Perntejn Castle 234 Trolleybuses 431
vabinsk, Max 25, 211 White Mountain and Star Hunting Trosky Castle 207
Svt Jur 286 Lodge 101 Trutnov
hotels 361 Thkly, Count Imre 263, 333 hotels 355
Svt Kr 322 Thomasberger 216 restaurants 386
Svrk, Jan 27 Thun-Hohenstein Palace (Prague) 62 Tuba Competition (Brno) 30
Svidnk 315, 325, 333 Thun-Hohenstein tomb (Klterec Tuek, Jan 122
hotels 365 nad Oh) 193 Tulka, Josef, National Theatre
vihov Castle 159, 166 Thurzo family 310, 320 (Prague) 94
444 G E N E R A L I N D E X
Acknowledgments
Hachette Livre Polska wishes to thank the to take photographs inside their premises; and to
following people at Dorling Kindersley: use photographs from their archives:
428; Jon Arnold Images/ Walter Bibikow 306; JTB MUZEUM KROM: Pink Portrait by Max
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Profimedia CZ s.r.o 14, 118, 1289, 150151, 242 NRODN GALERIE V PRAZE: Graficka sbirka 37br,
3; Profimedia International s.r.o 11 bl; Michaela 39cbr, 95br; Klaster sv Anezky 77cl; Klaster sv.
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Wlodarczyk 245tc; zdspics 244ca; ARCHV HLAVNIHO 6061 all; Veletrzni Palac 1023 all; NRODN
MESTA, PRAHY (CLAM-GALLASUV PALC): 39bl, 74tr, KNIHOVNA ESK REPUBLIKY: 38tl; NARODNI MUSEUM
ARCHIWUM ZDJE KARELA KRYLA: 23c; ARKADA HOTEL: V PRAZE: Vlasta Dvorakova 35cr, 36bl, 367c, 37c,
343tl; ART ARCHIV: Janaek Museum Brno/Dagli
37cl, 38bc, 39bc, 74bl; Muzeum Bedricha
Orti 23t; ARTOTHEK: 24cr, 25cl, 25br; AV STUDIO:
262t, 263t, 263bra. Smetany 42bl; Tyrsovo Muzeum 97bl; NRODNI
BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY: Jean-Loup Charmet PAMTKOV STAV: St Elizabeth, by Master
Collection 43tl, 72cl; The Meeting of Napoleon and Teodoryk 24cl.
Francis I, by Jean Antoine Gros. 40crb; OBLASTN GALERIE, Liberec: Manor House in
Rosegarten Museum, Constance 36cla; B&W: 99cb Benatky, by August Pettenkofen 183c; OBRAZRNA
(Wojciech Wjcik). PRASKEHO HRADU: 56tl; OFFICIAL TOURISM AND TRAVEL
ESK VCARSKO O. P. S.: 189crb; CORBIS: 22b, 34c, GUIOE TO BRATISLAVA: 277ca; ORSZGOS SZCHNYI
41ba, 42cl, 42tr, 101t; Alinari Archives 174b; KNYVTAR: Tartars Raid miniature 262crb.
Paul Almasy 46bra, Archivo Iconografico,
PHOTOLIBRARY.COM: Jon Arnold Images: 89.
S.A. 40cr; Austrian Archives; Haus-, Hof- und
Staatsarchiv, Vienna 34brb, 266bra; Yannis REGIONAL MUSEUM IN VYSOK MTO: J Junek 26br;
Behrakis/Reuters 409t; Bettmann 26c, 41bb, RESTAURANT LE MONDE: 367tl.
46t, 46brb, 131t; Stefano Bianchetti 265tr; SLOVAK NATIONAL TOURISM CENTRE: 257t, 258t,
Mike Blake/Reuters 409b; David W. erny/ 259b, 312b, 312c, 312tra, 313t, 313ca, 313cb,
Reuters 267bra; John Dakers; Eye Ubiquitous 317br, 322c, 339b, 339cb, 339ca, 343b, 371bl,
426c; Franz-Marc Frei 20tlb, 22tl; Marc 398b, 402t, 402c, 402b, 403t, 409c, 425b, 425c,
Garanger 267t; Hulton-Deutsch Collection 22tr, 425t, 428b; SLOVENSKA NARODNA GALERIA,
(Lancaster) 47t; Petr Josek/Reuters 406b;
George D. Lepp 17tla; Buddy Mays 30tr; BRATISLAVA: Jan Francisci, Captain of Slovak
Gail Mooney 369tl; Ali Meyer 40t, 264c; Insurgents, painting by Peter Michal Buh:
Reuters 47brb, 256c, 406c; Galen Rowell 189t; 260; STTN STREDNI ARCHIV: 34tc; STTN IDOVSK
Rykoff Collection 44brb; Scheufler Collection MUZEUM: 51tr, 79br; LUBOMR STIBUREK: 89ca;
43cla, 43b, 44bra, 44bla, 266t; Liba Taylor 248b; BARBARA SUDNIK-WJCIKOWSKA: 17bla, 252tl, 252cl,
Peter Turnley 14b, 47bc, 47bla; Miroslav 252b, 253cl, 253cr; SVATOVTSK POKLAND, PRAH
Zajic 46c; Zefa 43cra; JOE CORNISH: 489; 97cr. HRAD: 35cl, 35bc.
ROMAN DELIKT: 264b.
MIKOAJ TAANDZIEWICZ: 318319.
SAMANTHA VON GERBIG: 39t; GETTY IMAGES:
Imagno/Contributor 269c; Adam Jones 10cla. U PINKAS RESTAURANT: 368cl; UMLECKOPRMYSLOV
HEMISPHERE IMAGES: Monde/Pawel Wysocki 41011. MUZEUM V PRAZE: 40bc, 97br; GABRIEL
INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL, KARLOVY VARY: 29cr; URBNEK/UMP: 25bl.
ISTOCKPHOTO.COM: narvikk 424bl. ZEFA: 170171.
JON ARNOLD IMAGES: Walter Bibikow 23, 3023.
KANCELR PREZIDENTA REPUBLIKY: 33br; OLDICH
KARASEK: 18cr, 20cl, 28c, 31t, 58tr, 65t, 208bl, Jacket
209cb, 209ca, 209t, 337t, 340341, 370cl; Front PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/Jose Fuste
JAROSLAV KLENOVSKY: 237cr; DALIBOR KUSK: 104bl; Raga.
ARCHIVE OF MARLENE KRYL: 23cr; KUNSTHISTORISCHES Back ALAMY IMAGES: Chris Howes/Wild Places
MUSEUM, WIEN: portrait of Emperor Sigismund, by Photography tl; pictureproject bl; AWL IMAGES:
Pisanello 36clb.
LEBRECHT MUSIC AND ARTS PHOTO LIBRARY: RA 27b; Walter Bibikow clb; Gavin Heller cla.
LEONARDO MEDIA LTD.: 367br. Spine PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/Jose Fuste
MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY: 9, 36t, 37t, 41t, 44t, Raga t.
45t, 45bla, 45blb, 49t, 115t, 411c; MESTSKE MUZEUM,
BRATISLAVA: 264265c; MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF All other images Dorling Kindersley
SCIENCE, OXFORD: Samantha von Gerbig, 39tl; For further information see: www.dkimages.com