Resilient Pretreatment
Resilient Pretreatment
Resilient Pretreatment
TM
M E N T :
T
PRE -TREA Q ITY
UAL
N G
WEAVI TEXTILES
INT O
For private circulation only
The
RESILIENTA
C
Customer Interface
h e m i c
from
a l
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Warm regards,
All content and images are copyrights of Resil and respective individuals. MS Vijayan
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Market Trends
It’s the fourth largest economy after USA, China and we see that there’s immense value add that takes place here.
Japan; it’s amongst the top ten FDI destinations; it’s a The value added in the garment cycle can be almost 8-10
country with the largest young population in the world. times higher than yarn and nearly twice as high as fabric.
Yes, that’s our India - a vibrant economy and a
resplendent market.
Market Size (Rs. billion) The following reasons enable this high value-add:
2004-2005 35.0
31.0
2009-2010 p
t jum
30.0 28.0
an
nific
Exports Domestic 25.0 A sig
20.0
17.0
amongst them being that India is the 3rd largest cotton 10.0 7.0
0.0
India is the THIRD largest cotton producer country after China and US 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 P
30
Uzbekistan
Others
China
India
Turkey
USA
The RESILIENT 1
Market Trends
this goal certain initiatives have been taken such as Complete bouquet of textile and apparel on offer
the following: to buyers
Some key Indian retailers are:
1. Integrated Textile Parks (ITP): to provide world
class infrastructure and, possibly, flexible operating
Retailer Activity Total Retail Expected
conditions (labour laws, etc). space (sq ft) Turnover
2. Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF): to facilitate (billion USD)
subsidised financing.
Pantaloon Retail Multiformat 1,100,000 1.2
Our country’s investment requirements, as well as the retail
labour generation potential put together, complement
Shopper’s Stop ltd Department 739,903 1.0
and augment this growth process.
store
Defining the growth path further, research recommends Lifestyle Department 325,000 0.65
that: store
Yarn producers should forward integrate into Trent (India) Department 120,000 0.4
garments to improve their profitability: This strategy store &
carries the costs and risks of moving from Hypermarket
commodity products to differentiated products.
Ebony Department 167,000 0.1
Large garment companies should integrate
backwards till the weaving stage: This will enable
them to emerge as bulk suppliers to global retailers. Key global retailers are:
Retailer Outsourcing % Share to Indian
Companies manufacturing high-fashion, short-run From India (billion Textile market
products may however choose to operate as USD)2005
individual units: They should instead focus on Gap 7 15
strengthening their design and fashion capabilities.
Walmart 5 11
Depending upon their risk appetite, some companies
may focus on building and distributing their own J C Penny 3 6.7
brands globally: Since this is a high-margin, Carrefour 1 2
high-risk business.
Target 0.8 1.8
Indian retail: where it stands today
There has been a rapid evolution of new-age young Some major vendors and their brands:
Indian consumers
Arvind brands Excalibur, Newport, Flying machine &
The retail space is no more a constraint for growth Ruggers, Arrow, Lee, Wrangler
Partnering among brands, retailers, investors, Madura Garments Loius Philippe, Van Heusen,
franchisees and malls is an obvious impetus to this Peter England & Allen Solly
growth
Raymonds Park Avenue, Parx, Manzoni, Colourplus
Scaleable and profitable retail models are well
Gokuldas Images Weekender
established for most of the categories
Indus League Indigo Nation, Indus League, Scullers
The following still remain some of the inherent
advantages of Indian retail: Hi fashion Numero Uno
K.G.Denim Trigger
Availability of raw material
Spinning, weaving, processing, garmenting Levi Strauss & Co Levis & Dockers
capacities Zodiac Zodiac
Low-cost advantage in terms of labour cost
2 The RESILIENT
ARC Corner
Reagent preparation:
Take potassium iodide [10gm of KI (100%)] in
100ml of water; then add 0.6358gm of iodine
(100%); stir well until iodine is completely
dissolved in the KI solution. After this, add
800ml of ethanol. Then by adding water the
volume should be raised to 1000ml.
The RESILIENT 3
ARC Corner
Procedure:
Conduct the test in a standard atmosphere as defined
above.
Principle:
C) Test for degree of bleaching
The length of chain of cellulose molecules is decreased
when treated with acid, alkali, oxidising or reducing
A ) F l u i d i t y o f di s p e r s i o n s o f ce l l u l o s e f r o m
bl e a c h e d co t t o n cl o t h a n d B ) R e f l e c t a n c e , agents, etc. The severity of the treatment determines
blue and whiteness of bleached fabrics are the main the extent of the shortening of the cellulose chain and
tests used to determine the effectiveness of the fluidity, or ease of flow, of a dispersion of the cellulose
bleaching. in the solvents.
4 The RESILIENT
ARC Corner
Procedure: Calculation:
Weigh to the nearest 0.1 mg sufficient sample to give a Calculate the apparent fluidity of the dispersion from
0.5% solution of the cellulose in cuprammonium the following formula:
solvent. This is determined as follows
C
F = ————————
0.94 X V X 0.5
0.95{t-K/t}
W= ————————————
100 – M where:
where: F = Apparent fluidity in rhes
W = Weight of sample required t = Time of efflux
V = Volume of liquid in the dissolving tube 0.95 = Density of the cuprammonium solution
M = Moisture content (2% for desiccated samples) C and K = Instrumental constants
0.94 = Density of the cuprammonium solution
2)Reflectance, blue and whiteness of bleached fabrics
Transfer the samples carefully from the weighing dish
or watch glass to the glass dissolving bottle containing Purpose and scope:
the stainless balls. This test method provides procedures for measuring
the whiteness of textiles. Whiteness as measured by this
Add the standard cuprammonium solution in the test method is an indication of how white the textile
following manner: with the stopcock of the T-tube appears to an average viewer. The formulae
closed, open the pinchcock and allow the solution for calculation of whiteness are those recommended
to flow out. When the flow becomes sluggish, by the CIE.
owing to the drop in pressure of the gas in the bottle,
pass a brisk stream of nitrogen gas through the
horizontal arm of the T-tube to expel the air,
and then open the stopcock to allow nitrogen to be
drawn into the bottle.
The RESILIENT 5
ARC Corner
Because reflectance is affected by the nature of the With fabrics having a pronounced face, such as
surface of the textiles, comparisons can be made only corduroys and other pile fabrics, make all
between samples of the same type of textile. measurements on the face.
6 The RESILIENT
ARC Corner
Principle:
Carefully scoured specimens of the cotton to be
tested and unmercerised cotton are immersed in
separate baths of barium hydroxide solution for a
definite time period. Aliquot portion of each soaking
bath and of fresh barium hydroxide solution are then
titrated with hydrochloric acid.
Testing:
Take a minimum of 5gm of each sample of the
unmercerised standards and scour it.
Calculations
Weigh 2gm of each scoured sample and of the Using titration figures, determine the ratio of barium
scoured standard cotton into dry 250ml flasks hydroxide absorbed by a mercerised specimen to that
equipped with stoppers (Ground glass stoppers are absorbed by the unmercerised standard. Multiply this
recommended). ratio by 100 to obtain the barium activity number.
Add 30ml 0.25N barium hydroxide to each flask Barium activity number of unknown sample is:
containing a test specimen and to two empty flasks
for blank determinations. (B.R of Blank – B.R of unknown sample)
x 100
Stopper each flask immediately upon addition of the
barium hydroxide and store them for at least 2 hours (B.R Blank – B.R of unmercerised sample).
in a water bath at 20-25 0 C (68-77 0 F) (room
temperature). *AG Gifta Sherlin, B Tech (Textile Chemistry) from
SSM College of Engineering, is currently working as a
Shake the flasks at frequent intervals. After 2 hours, Technical Officer at Resil’s ARC.
transfer 10ml of solution from each container
including the blanks and titrate with 0.1N *Santhosh M, MSc (Chemistry) from Periyar University,
hydrochloric acid, using phenolphthalein as an Salem, and is currently serving as Technical Officer at Resil’s
indicator. ARC.
The RESILIENT 7
Techno Talk
Pre-treatment is at the heart of processing textiles. Sequestering agents are chemicals whose molecular
Grey cloth when woven is quite unattractive and structure is that of an envelope and it holds a certain
contains numerous natural and added impurities, type of ion in a stable and soluble complex. Divalent
which come in the way of successfully carrying cations, such as hardness ions, form stable and
out the subsequent steps of dyeing, printing soluble complex structures with several
and finishing. types of sequestering chemicals.
In pre-treatment, all these
impurities are removed and the
fabric is brought to a stage where
, Sequestering agents are
When held inside the complex, the
ions have limited ability to react
chemicals whose with other ions, clays or
it becomes more absorbent and polymers. Ethylenediamine Tetra
molecular structure is that
white and can be easily processed. Acetic Acid (EDTA) is a
Major steps involved in textile of an envelope and it well-known sequestering agent
holds a certain type of ion
,
pre-treatment are desizing, for hardness ions, such as Ca+2.
scouring, mercerisation and in a stable and soluble
bleaching. In every step, different Chelation (Greek for ‘claw’) is the
complex.
chemicals are involved. They are the process of reversible binding
following: (complexation) of a ligand - also known
as chelant or chelator or chelating agent or
Wetting scouring agents sequestering agent or complexing agent - to a metal
Sequestering agents ion, forming a metal complex, the chelate. The term is
Mercerising agents
generally reserved for complexes in which the metal
Hydrogen peroxide stabilisers
ion is bound to two or more atoms of the chelating
Hydrogen peroxide killers
agent, although the bonds may be any combination of
coordinating or ionic bonds.
8 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
Learning
the panacea to many problems
forming a precipitate despite the presence of a The need for training as well as for refresher
precipitating agent. courses is often overlooked in the garment
industry. But the truth is that educative sessions
The chelation value is determined experimentally by and the right kind of training can actually help
titrating a weighed quantity of the chelating agent’s address several of its problems. From reducing
sample, with calcium ion solution of known order processing time to reducing wastage,
concentration. As the calcium ion is added, the ions they can bring in efficiency and improvements.
are chelated by the chelating agent, preventing the
formation of permanent precipitation. Under Resil’s recently launched ‘Discover with
Resil’ mission, customised industry-related
The formation of precipitation is prevented as long as education plays a major role. At Resil, we know
there is free chelating agent present in the system. After that experience helps a person learn
a point, when there is no more chelating agent left in professionally. But we also believe that teaching
the system, the calcium ion added forms a cloudy and training play a vital role in acquiring
precipitate - calcium carbonate - by reacting with expertise. A dependable and competent facility
sodium carbonate. The calcium chelation value to provide training for garment professionals has
indicates the amount of calcium (in the form of calcium for long been an unfulfilled, basic need of
carbonate) which will be sequestered by a known garment trade in India and abroad. At Resil,
weight of chelating agent and is expressed as milligrams we have taken up the challenge of fulfilling this
of calcium carbonate per gram of chelating agent. requirement and offer a series of training
programmes. Refer the next page for an overview
Similarly, we can also identify the magnesium chelation of some of our initiatives.
value. The magnesium chelation value indicates the
amount of magnesium (in the form of magnesium
carbonate) which will be sequestered by a known
The RESILIENT 9
A Quantum Leap with Learning
Yet another initiative from Resil for the garment industry
A must for any executive in garment trade; an exhaustive programme that imparts total
basic understanding of the whole gamut of Textile Technology. We promise you that
anyone who attends this programme will be spared the regret of not having a degree in
textiles.
The course explains to you in the easiest possible format, all that you wanted to
know about fibres, fabric and garments and more. A truly amazing programme,
which no participant ever regretted. Suffice to say that many textile graduates
and post-graduates who were participants, in turn recommended it to their
colleagues as they found out the contents and treatment much exceeded the
university syllabus.
The programme is a pleasant guided tour, in which the participants explore and certainly
discover all the required technical skills that a competent merchandiser should possess,
but in most cases never had a chance to acquire. An excellent refresher course for
executives who are already serving in merchandising jobs at any level. Apart from
introduction to the wonderful world of textiles and textile testing based on international
standards, this programme explores garment dyeing, garment washing, garment finishing,
garment surface decorations and embellishments.
Customised programmes
We can also make available specially structured programmes to suit the specific needs of
personnel serving at various levels in the garment trade including textile and fashion
institutes. Our customised programmes can be made flexible to fit into the course
curriculum of textile/apparel/fashion institutes.
Programmes for new recruits or serving personnel; Inspection of yarn, fabric and
garments, Essential basic textile testing based on internationally recognised
methods, training for wet process laboratory etc are a few examples.
For further information please contact during office hours 9986697991 or [email protected]
Techno Talk
Pre-treatment processes in textiles involve a good agents for fastness improvement, felting agents,
number of auxiliaries. Auxiliaries are process fixing acceleration agents for continuous dyeing and
enhancers, which ensure desired end-effect with printing.
uniformity. It is valuable to know and understand
the broad, basic properties of chemicals; Wetting agents can be used in every step
their behaviour during application in of processing to bring the processing
each of the unit processes. liquor in intimate contact with the
This understanding will help make
an effective choice for optimal
, The surfactants assist
textile material. Depending upon
the process method and desired
performance. in wetting and results, wetting agents are
detergency, emulsify selected.
Chemicals used in textile
processing are mainly: unsaponifiable materials Non-ionic wetting agents are
1) Surface active agents like and are especially generally preferred in the
wetting agents, emulsifiers and
detergents
2) Desizing agents, chelating agents,
defoamers, stabilisers for peroxide,
important in scouring
of cotton. , desizing
don’t
bath to ensure that they
interfere with the efficiency
of the alpha amylase desizing
enzyme.
solvents, lubricants, etc
The surfactants assist in wetting and
3) Caustic soda, sodium silicate, organic and
detergency, emulsify unsaponifiable materials and
mineral acids, carbonates and bicarbonate of soda,
are especially important in scouring of cotton.
hydrogen peroxide and sodium hypochlorite, etc
Wetting agents in scouring are mainly ethoxylated fatty
alcohols, ethylene oxide/propylene oxide condensates
Surfactants:
of fatty alcohols or plain EO/PO copolymers. Wetting
Surfactants (organic polar compounds with at least agents penetrate into the core of the fabric, reduce
one hydrophobic part and at least one hydrophilic surface tension of water, and, thus, help in bringing
group) are widely spread in the textile finishing processing chemicals in contact with the fabric.
industry. Even though all types of surfactants (anionic,
The cationic surfactants are mainly softeners and are
non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric) are in use,
not used in pre-treatment/scouring treatments.
the anionic and non-ionic ones dominate. Surfactants
in the textile industry serve mainly as detergents, Since non-ionic and anionic surfactants are widely used
wetting agents, defoaming agents, levelling agents, in pre-treatment of textiles, knowing their benefits or
dispersing agents, softening agents, emulsifying agents, limitation is of prime importance.
spotting agents, anti-electrostatics, after-treatment
A) Non-ionic wetting agents
Hydrophilic part: polyethylenoxide or polypropylenoxide;
Hydrophobic part: fatty alcohol, fatty amine, fatty acid
amide, fatty acid, alkylphenol, alkylnaphthol.
12 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
non-interference with subsequent cationic treatments Non-ionic surfactants are good soil removing
are other advantages of this class of surfactants. agents for synthetics, but not so good for cotton.
However their foaming tendency is high. Hence, anionic agents are used along with non-ionics.
Anionic surfactants also mitigate the cloud point
The choice for the right type of non-ionic surfactant problem of non-ionic surfactants, and if suitably
depends on the following: proportioned, this problem will also be completely
eliminated. Therefore, mixed surfactants are more
Temperature: Temperature has an inverse effect on the efficient than either anionic or non-ionic alone.
solubility of non-ionic surfactants. At higher
temperature, solubility decreases and at ‘Cloud point’ Crypto-anionic surfactants are predominantly
they separate out in the solution. Cloud point is the non-ionic with a number of ethylene oxide groups and
temperature at which 1% of the aqueous solution of also have suitable anion. Thus they possess dual
the non-ionic surfactant is rendered insoluble. The properties of water solubility at higher temperatures as
number of ethylene oxide molecules decides whether well as desired surface activity.
the surfactant is water soluble or oil soluble. As the
number of EO molecules increases, water solubility, B) Anionic surfactants
as well as hot temperature solubility increases. Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane sulfonates,
However, the surface activity reduces as the number alkyl aryl sulfonates, fatty acid condensation products,
of EO molecules increases. Emulsifying properties are alkali salts of fatty acids (soaps), lignine sulfonates,
best at temperatures just below cloud point. condensation products of formaldehyde and
naphthaline sulfonic acid.
Cloud point of non-ionic surfactants gets lowered with
the addition of electrolytes like common salt and Among anionic surfactants, the linear alkyl, alkyl aryl
Glaubbers salt. Therefore, operational temperatures sulphonates have very good detergency characteristics
and electrolyte concentrations in the bath are deciding in alkaline scouring conditions. They are more suitable
factors for the choice of surfactants. in alkaline scouring conditions. They are more stable
in hard water as their calcium and magnesium salts are
The HLB (hydrophilic-lyophilic balance) is an index stable. They are not hydrolysed at higher temperatures
of the suitability of a surfactant for its wettability/ and are stable in both acid and alkali.
emulsifying property/detergency characteristics.
Fatty alcohols are sulphates and are more hydrophilic
The surfactants’ nature and application properties can because of the [OSO3 Na]- group with additional [O] as
be related to HLB values as below: against the sulphonates [SO3 Na]. They are less stable to
hydrolysis for the same reason. The properties depend on
the chain length of the alcohol and also the polar group.
HLB Dispersability
Up to 4 Non dispersible Esters of Sulpho di-carboxylic acids like di-octyl
(2-ethyl hexyl) sulho succinate are powerful wetting
3 to 10 Milky dispersions agents. They are also not stable to alkali/acid at higher
10 to 13 Transluscent dispersions temperatures.
>13 Clear solutions
Phosphate esters of fatty alcohols are very good detergents.
The RESILIENT 13
Techno Talk
they are good wetting agents for mercerising. outward, surrounding the droplet with a hydrophilic
sheath. Ionic surfactants add another dimension to the
C) Cationic surfactants stability of emulsions; they set up a charge-charge
Derivatives of quaternary ammonia salts. repulsion field, which separates the droplets.
Resil’s wetting cum scouring agents Dispersing agents function in a manner similar to
emulsifying agents. The difference is that solid
Product Ionic Area of Machine APEO/NPEO
particulate matter, rather than insoluble oils,
is dispersed. The nature of the lyophilic part of the
nature application Free
surfactant molecule must be such that it adsorbs onto
the particle’s surface. Surfactant molecules must be
Resiwet NG Non-ionic Scouring & Winch, jigger No matched with their intended use.
bleaching & cabinets
Emulsifying agents are surfactants that convert Resilube DG Non-ionic Scouring, Winch, soft Yes
water-insoluble oils into stable, aqueous suspensions. bleaching & flow, H.T.H.P
garment & drum
The lyophilic part of the surfactant molecule is absorbed processing washers
by the oil droplet and the lyophobic head is oriented
Resiperse DW Anionic Dispersing and Levelling and soaping All machines Yes
washing agents
Resiquest 107 Anionic Dispersing and Levelling and soaping All machines Yes
washing agents
14 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
Sequestering agents:
Complexing agents (chelating agents) are applied to
mask hardening alkaline-earth cations and transition-
metal ions in aqueous solutions, in order to eliminate
their damaging effects like:
The RESILIENT 15
Techno Talk
Peroxide stabilisers:
Stabilisers must be added to the bleach solution to
control the decomposition of hydrogen peroxide.
Stabilisers function by providing buffering action to
control the pH at the optimum level and to complex
with trace metals, which catalyse the degradation
of the fibres.
16 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) precipitates, The use of TSPP is limited to bleaching wool and silk,
reducing the OH- concentration. which are sensitive to high pH and high temperatures.
As opposed to silicates, pyrophosphates are
Bleach solutions containing only magnesium ions have precipitated from solution in the presence of calcium
good stability but the bleaching effectiveness is not and magnesium and therefore do not develop full
as good as when silicates are included. Silicates as stabilising power.
stabilisers have one drawback; they tend to polymerise
and form insoluble silicates. They become hard deposits Peroxide killers:
which build-up in the machines causing the fabric to
be abraded. Also some of the deposits will form in the Since reactive dyes are especially sensitive to peroxide
cloth, giving it a harsh, raspy hand, a real negative for and currently require extended rinsing and/or use of
terry toweling. chemical scavengers after bleaching.
The RESILIENT 17
Techno Talk
Basics in Pre-Treatment
Red, yellow, green... the fabric is dyed and is ready for finishing. But what are the different stages that the fabric passes
through even before it is dyed? How does it get prepared to embrace colour? Jayant Khera* and Rajesh Wakade*
give us the answers
Before a fabric gets coloured, it has to be free from Stability to electrolytes and alkaline solutions
natural waxes, oils and colours, soil particles, etc. Ready removability (desizing)
It goes through a series of processes like desizing, Compatibility with other process steps (eg singeing
scouring, bleaching, and so on, employing a number thermo-fixation)
of chemicals, which ensure that the fabric is prepared Ecological compatibility
for uniform dyeing. This article provides basic Identifiable on the fibre
information about each of the pre-treatment
processes. For high-quality desizing, it is essential to know the
chemical and physical properties of the sizes, which
Sizing and its necessity: will help apply a process that ensures their total
elimination.
The preparation of
threads for weaving 2) Desizing:
, involves covering
To ensure the success the warp threads Definition of desizing
of all the operations with size with Desizing eliminates sizing products to ensure the success
s p e c i f i c of scour boiling and bleaching and the production of
following desizing such as properties. faultless dyeing. Before starting this process, it is better
bleaching, dyeing or A fibre is easier to determine the type of the sizes, to facilitate their
printing, it is important to weave if its
removal.
that the material is
completely clear of sizes. , s i
resistance to
rubbing
g n i f i
improved. Sizing,
hence, improves the
c a n t l
is
y
The chemical identity of sizes:
The products for sizing are generally natural
polymers (starch) as is, or modified (CMS), as well
as synthetic polymers and copolymers (PVA,
weavability of warp
PAC,PES, etc). It goes without saying that the fabric
threads by reducing the
can contain a single size or a mixture of different
thread-to-thread and thread-to-
sizes depending on the type and structure of the
metal friction. The efficiency of a size is measured by
textile substrate, alongside waxes, fats and
the efficiency of the weaving yield.
lubricating paraffin.
1) Sizing: 1. Starch: The two components of starch - amylopectin
and amylose.
Sizing requirements:
18 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
The most widely used chemical modification is To obtain CMC, a well-swollen cellulose is alkalised
carboxy-methylation to improve elimination of the and then etherified with sodium chloroacetate. CMCs
starch (CMS). Starch is a macromolecular are identifiable indirectly with uranyl nitrate or with
polysaccharide, which is identifiable by its bluish violet acridine orange and removable either enzymatically
colouration with iodine and is removable with alpha- with cellulases such as Ezysoft LC Plus, or by a hot
amylase enzymes such as Ezysize Flex. wash in the presence of surfactants such as Resiscour
CSR.
2.Polyvinyl alcohol: PVA – partially or totally
hydrolysed 4. Polyacrylates: PAC - a product of acrylic synthesis
Polymerisation of the vinyl monomer, through synthesis There are several PACs prepared from acrylic acids,
of polyvinyl acetate can produce partially or totally methacrylic acids or acrylic esters. The most commonly
hydrolysed PVAs. used acrylate salts are: ammonium, sodium, potassium
and calcium. PACs are strong electrolytes and are
PVA exists in two spatial forms: isotactic or therefore, readily soluble in a neutral or alkaline
syndiotactic conformations. medium. PACs are indirectly identifiable with
ninhydrin and removable by washing in the presence
PVA is identifiable by its deep bluish violet colouration of Sandozin or Sandoclean surfactants.
with the iodine reactant and the boric reactant. It is
removable, after swelling, with surfactants such as 5. Polyester: PES - synthesis by polycondensation
Resiscour CSR. This synthetic size is highly sensitive
to alkalis, electrolytes and above all, to the heat PES is obtained by the polycondensation of polyglycols
treatment of singeing. with aliphatic or aromatic acids containing hydrophilic
groups such as sulphate, phosphate, carboxylate, etc.
3. Carboxymethylcellulose: CMC - a derivative of The main disadvantage is their sensitivity to alkalis
cellulose and electrolytes. They are identifiable with Astrazon
Red F-3BL and removable by surfactants such as
linear chain, no branching Resiscour CSR as well as sequestrants.
ß-1,4-glycosidic linkage
1,000 - 7,000 repeating units 6. Other sizes: fatty substances and additives
The RESILIENT 19
Techno Talk
PVA can also be identified by a touch of boric acid in Wash: very strong and effective washing is required to
an iodine medium. The colouration is dark blue. remove the degraded starch.
20 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
cellulosic fibres. It frees them from troubling substances are darker in colour than the cotton; intensive
and makes them absorbent. At the same time, bleaching would still be necessary to eliminate
vegetable contamination swells perfectly and is softened these disturbing vegetable fragments. Compared to
for rapid de-colouration during bleaching. Alkaline the other bleaching agents used (sodium
scour boiling is an intermediate process carried out after hypochlorite, sodium chlorite, sodium
enzymatic desizing and before peroxide bleaching. permanganate, etc.) hydrogen peroxide is the
Even if the quantity of impurities is not most efficient and, at the same time, the
high, it is essential to eliminate it to one which causes the least
avoid negative effects in subsequent environmental pollution.
finishing processes.
,
during bleaching in the presence to be activated and stabilised at
of iron annoying catalytic activated and stabilised the same time. Caustic soda
damage. It is also essential to at the same time. activates H 2 O 2 and favours the
eliminate vegetable residues as well formation of hydroxo-peroxide
as the proteins and other substances ions. The stabiliser orients the
present in the fibre. peroxo-anions towards oxidation of the
natural coloured pigments in the cotton, and
The quality of scour boiling is measured above all
at the same time, avoids or limits side reactions
by the absorbency; without absorbency there is no
such as the formation of molecular oxygen (loss of
dyeing and no print.
whiteness) or the oxidation of the cellulose (loss
Hydrophobicity: property of a grey fabric to repel water
because it contains the natural cotton waxes and fats
which have to be saponified.
4) Bleaching
Definition of bleaching:
The last phase of purification of cotton, bleaching,
is the most visible. After this treatment the natural
yellowish and brownish pigments, and the vegetable
impurities in the cotton disappear. The bleaching
reaction takes place in the following way: a strong
oxidising agent, hydrogen peroxide, destroys the
chromophoric groups of the natural dyes in the
cotton. Decolouration takes place and the material
looks whiter.
The RESILIENT 21
Techno Talk
,
concerned, the desired effects,
can be the consequences. A single bleaching and dyeing the available space, the possible
molecule, the stabiliser is able to treatment combinations and above
conquer the undesirable effects of
units.
all with the design and specific
H2O 2 and ensure a superior quality of mechanical functions of each machine
bleaching. manufacturer.
Bleach clean-up: Perox series
The use of catalase enzymes to breakdown the One of the most modern ranges is as follows:
residual hydrogen peroxide after bleaching is • singeing at the entrance to the machine
gaining importance in bleaching and dyeing units. • desizing
This is especially since reactive dyes are sensitive • intermediate scouring
22 The RESILIENT
Techno Talk
• wet-on-wet impregnation with maximum pickup for As a rule, bleaching is followed immediately by dyeing
bleaching on the same machine, after an intermediate washing if
• combi-steam steaming either under tension (1-2 necessary. The aim of discontinuous treatment is to
min) or on a roller-belt for a longer period pass through the pre-treatment/bleaching phase as
• open-width washing at the exit of the steamer quickly as possible in order to free the machine for
• drying on heated cylinders. dyeing. One of the certain advantages is that batches
of different weights can be treated on small, medium
Enzymatic desizing: (washing range) or large machines. A discontinuous machine offers
Ezysize flex conc - 2-4 ml/lit considerable flexibility compared to a continuous
Resiscour CSR - 1-2 ml/lit machine.
Resiprep USP - 1 ml/lit
temp: 70-90°C, time: 0.5-2 min The following machines can be used:
Jet/Overflow: short liquor ratio where the material
Demineralisation: (washing range) circulates at high speed. The chemical products
Resiprep USP - 2-4 ml/lit applied must not produce any foam, otherwise the
Resiscour CSR - 1-2 ml/lit transport of the material will be hindered.
temp: 50-70°C, time: 0.5-2 min
Jig: short liquor ratio. The material is rolled up
Usual washes: (washing range) and then unrolled while passing through the
Resiscour CSR - 1-2 ml/lit chemical bath. In this way, it passes through the
Resiscour MCW - 1-2 ml/lit bath many times. Part of the material remains in
pH: 7-10, temp: 70-90°C, time: 0.5-2 min the air (cooling). Today, the new jigs are equipped
with vacuum or submerged suction to obtain
Alkaline scouring: (steam range) better levelness of the effects. Obviously, this type
Resiscour CSR -1-2 ml/lit of machine is not ideal for final washing.
Resiprep USP - 1-2 ml/lit
NaOH solid(flakes) - 20-60 g/l Beam dyeing machine: here the material stands
still and the bath circulates through the material
steam: 1-20 min
from the inside to the outside. Perfect wetting out
Peroxide bleaching (steam range) guarantees good levelness of the effects.
Resiscour CSR - 2-4 ml/lit
Package dyeing machine: the bath circulates from
Resiprep USP - 1-2 ml/lit
the inside to the outside of the bobbin as well as
NaOH 50% - 20-60 ml/lit
from the outside to the inside. The alternation
H2O2 50% - 20-60 ml/lit frequency is defined. Perfect wetting out
Steam: 1-20 min guarantees good levelness of the effects.
Final neutralisation: Winch: long liquor ratio (20:1 - 50:1).
Ultrafab FP - 2-4 ml/lit The material circulates slowly in this machine.
Perox 283 - 1-3 ml/lit Foam is not particularly disturbing. In some cases,
Temp: 20-50°C, time: few seconds the formation of foam makes it possible to use
shorter liquor ratios.
Discontinuous bleaching processes or treatment in a
full bath: *Jayant Khera, BSc (Tech) from UICT, Mumbai, has vast
Discontinuous bleaching means that a certain quantity experience in the fields of pre-treatment, enzymes, finishing
of material is submitted to an oxidising chemical and garment processing, and is currently serving as Business
process for a certain time at a well-defined liquor ratio Development Head, Resil Chemicals Pvt Ltd.
(volume of water in relation to the weight of the
material); long liquor ratio (20:1 - 50:1), short liquor *Rajesh Wakade, BSc (Tech) in Textile Chemistry
ratio (2:1 - 6:1). As regards the transport or circulation, from UICT, Mumbai, and currently serves as
either the material moves (the bath stands still) or the Key Account Manager - Business Development Group,
bath circulates (the material stands still). Resil Chemicals Pvt Ltd.
The RESILIENT 23
Ask the Expert
Uneven singeing 1. Non-uniform moisture content across the fabric width 1. Uniform moisture content across the
(width-ways) 2. Non-uniform flame intensity across the fabric width fabric width
3. Uneven distance between the burner and the fabric 2. Uniform flame intensity across the fabric
width
3. Uniform distance between the fabric and
the burner
Uneven singeing 1. Non-uniform moisture content along the fabric length 1. Uniform moisture content along the fabric
(length-ways) 2. Non-uniform flame intensity along the fabric length length
3. Change in fabric speed during singeing 2. Uniform flame intensity along the fabric
4. Change in the distance between the fabric and the length
burner along the length 3. Uniform fabric speed during singeing
4. Uniform distance between the fabric and the
burner along the length
Thermal damage or reduction in tear 1. Extremely high flame intensity 1. Optimum flame intensity
strength 2. Extremely slow fabric speed 2. Optimum fabric speed
3. Little distance between the fabric and the burner 3. Optimum distance between the fabric
4. Inappropriate singeing position (too severe) and the burner
4. Optimum singeing position
24 The RESILIENT
Ask the Expert
Problems in desizing: Desizing with acid or enzymes etc, removes size from
the fabric so that chemical penetration of the fabric is
In the process of desizing, the sizing ingredients are not inhibited in the later stages. Problems which are
removed from the grey fabric by dissolving them. generally found in desizing are listed below.
The RESILIENT 25
Ask the Expert
Inadequate scouring or 1. Very low concentration of scouring chemicals 1. Optimum concentration of scouring chemicals
Inadequate absorbency or 2. Incompatible or ineffective surfactant/wetting agent 2. Compatible and effective surfactant/wetting agent
High residual impurities 3. Very low steaming temperature 3. Optimum steaming temperature
(Pad-steam scouring of 4. Inadequate steaming time 4. Optimum steaming time
fabric) 5. Inadequate washing after scouring 5. Optimum washing after scouring
Uneven scouring (random 1. Poor stability of surfactant/ wetting agent 1. Suitable selection and proper use of surfactant/
unevenness when (cloud point below application temperature) wetting agent
scouring in fabric form) 2. Water hardness or ineffective chelating agents 2. Use of soft water or effective chelating agents
3. Non-uniform and/or ineffective washing after scouring 3. Uniform and thorough washing after scouring
4. Improper use of defoamer 4. Suitable selection and proper use of defoamer
26 The RESILIENT
Ask the Expert
Uneven scouring (random (all above causes for random unevenness when 1. Uniform package density
unevenness when scouring yarn scouring in fabric form, and) 2. No yarn variations (Good
in package form) 1. Uneven package density quality control of incoming yarn)
2. Yarn variations
Uneven scouring 1. Variation in the concentration of scouring 1. Uniform concentration of scouring chemicals with time
(length-ways unevenness chemicals with time 2. Uniform moisture content in the incoming fabric along
in pad-steam scouring) 2. Variation in the moisture content of the incoming the length
fabric along the length
Harsh handle Complete loss of natural oils/ fats due to extremely Optimum concentration of
high alkali concentration alkali during scouring
Resist marks 1. Deposits of insoluble salts of the surfactants 1. Use of soft water or appropriate chelating agents
2. Redeposition of impurities 2a. Careful selection of scouring auxiliaries
2b. Thorough washing after scouring
Yellowing of the goods 1. Very high alkali concentration 1. Optimum alkali concentration
2. Lengthy dwell time 2. Optimum dwell time
Tendering or damage or 1. Presence of air in the machine, leading to the 1a. Exclusion of air
loss in strength formation of oxycellulose 1b. Use of mild reducing agent
2. Contamination of iron 2a. Water purification
2b. Use of appropriate complexing agent
2c. Demineralisation (if iron present in the textile
material)
The RESILIENT 27
Ask the Expert
28 The RESILIENT
Ask the Expert
Uneven whiteness 1. Non-uniform pick-up with time 1. Uniform pick-up with time
(length-ways) (bleaching 2. Variation in chemical 2. Uniform chemical
of fabrics by pad steam concentration with time concentration with time
process) 3. Variation in steaming 3. Uniform steaming conditions
conditions with time with time
4. Variation in the fabric speed 4. Uniform fabric speed
Uneven whiteness 1. Uneven pad pressure (across 1. Uniform pad pressure (across
(width-ways) (bleaching the fabric width) the fabric width)
of fabrics by pad steam 2. Non-uniform bath temperature 2. Uniform bath temperature
process) 3. Non-uniform chemical 3. Uniform chemical concentration
concentration
The RESILIENT 29
Ask the Expert
Decrease in the elasticity Too high alkalinity in the Optimum alkalinity in the
of the material bleach liquor bleach liquor
Low sewability of the Too high bleaching temperature Optimum bleaching temperature
material and/or alkalinity and alkalinity
30 The RESILIENT
Ask the Expert
Problems in mercerisation:
The RESILIENT 31
Ask the Expert
obtained at
increases with a
decrease in temperature. Lower
degrees of mercerisation are
temperatures above l000F.
32 The RESILIENT
Ask the Expert
Let us know!
The RESILIENT 33
23
Ask the Expert
Exhaustion: The proportion of dye or any other Lustre (luster, US): The display of different intensities
substrate that is taken up by a substrate at any stage of light, reflected both specularly and diffusely from
of a process to the amount originally available. different parts of a surface exposed to the same
incident light. High lustre is associated with gross
Fastness: The property of resistance to an agency differences of this kind. And empirical measurements
34 The RESILIENT
Ask the Expert
of lustre depend on the ratio of the intensities of Pilling: Small accumulations of fibres on the surface
reflected light for specified angles of incidence and of a fabric. Pills can develop during wear; are held
viewing. to the fabric as they get entangled with the surface
Note: This definition makes these differences in intensity of light fibers of the material; and are usually composed of
the key point, since these form the chief subjective impression on the same fibres from which the fabric is made.
the observer of lustre. Both specular and diffuse light must be
present together, for, if only diffuse light is present, the surface is
Reactive dye: A dye that, under suitable conditions,
is capable of reacting chemically with a substrate to
matt, not lustrous, whereas, if specular light only is present, the
form a covalent dye–substrate linkage.
surface is mirror-like, and again not lustrous. The phrase ‘exposed
to the same incident light’ has been included to rule out shadow Resist: (a) A substance applied to a substrate to
effects, which have no part in lustre proper. The general term prevent the uptake or fixation of a dye in a
‘surface’ is intended to apply to fibres, yarns, and fabrics, and subsequent operation.
indeed to other surfaces, eg, that of a pearl (though there the Note: The substance functions by forming a mechanical barrier,
differently reflecting parts are very close together). In the second by reacting chemically with the dye or substrate, or by altering
sentence of the definition, lustre is regarded as a positive function conditions (eg, pH value) locally so that development cannot occur.
of the differences, the appropriate adjective of intensification being Imperfect preparation of the substrate may cause a resist as a fault.
‘high’.
(b) In printing plate or roller making, a coating of,
Mercerisation: The treatment of cellulosic textiles in for example, light-hardened gelatin protects those
yarns or fabric form with a concentrated solution of areas of the plate or roller which do not require to
caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen, the be etched from the action of the etching solution.
strength and dye affinity of the materials are
increased, and the handle is modified. The process Scouring: The treatment of textile materials, in
takes its name from its discoverer, John Mercer aqueous or other solutions, to remove natural fats,
(1884). waxes, proteins and other constituents, as well as
dirt, oil and other impurities.
Mote: There are two broad categories: (a) Fuzzy
motes: the largest of this type of mote consists of Sequestering agents: A chemical capable of reacting
whole aborted or immature seeds covered with fuzz with metallic ions so that they become part of a
fibres and sometimes also with very short lint fibres, complex anion. The principle is used to extract
the development of which has ceased at a very early calcium ions from hard water, iron (II), and copper
stage. Small fuzzy motes originate as either ions from peroxide bleach liquors and various
undeveloped or fully grown seeds, which are broken metallic ions from dye-baths. This happens by
in ginning and disintegrate still further in the forming a water-soluble complex in which the metal
is held in a non-ionizable form.
opening, cleaning and carding processes. (b) Bearded
motes: pieces of seed coat with fairly long lint fibres Shade: (a) A common term loosely employed to
attached. broadly describe a particular colour or depth, eg,
Note 1: Both classes of mote become entangled with the lint cotton pale shade, 2% shade, mode shade and fashion shade.
and, when they are present in quantity, their complete elimination (b) To bring about relatively small modifications in
is impossible except by combing. the colour of a substrate in dyeing by further adding
Note 2: Fuzzy and bearded motes carrying only a small piece of small amounts of dye, especially with the objective
barely visible seed coat are frequently termed seed-coat neps. of a more accurate match with a given pattern.
Package dyeing: A method of dyeing in which the Singeing: To remove by burning against a hot plate,
liquor is circulated radially through a wound in a flame, or by infra-red radiation, unwanted
package. surface hair or filaments. The operation is usually
Note: Wound packages include slubbing in top form and cheeses performed before bleaching and finishing.
or cones of yarn.
Competitor 3 pH 6 / 9 / 12 pH 6 / 9 / 12
35 / 120 / 120 60 / 100 / 80 Parametres Ultrafab FP Glacial Acetic acid
TDS 0 0
36 The RESILIENT
Product Watch
Wetting and scouring agent: Resiscour CWLF Biodegradable and bioeliminable agent:
Resiscour CWLF is an APEO/NPEO free,
Resiscour CSR
low-foaming, wetting and scouring agent, designed Resiscour CSR is a medium foaming, wetting and
for the preparation of cotton, synthetic and blended scouring agent, designed for the preparation of cotton,
fabrics, particularly in high turbulence equipment synthetic and blended fabrics particularly in turbulence
such as soft flow, jet dyeing, and package-dyeing equipment such as soft flow, package dyeing machines
machines. as well as in continuous processing systems.
Excellent emulsifying and soil-suspending Excellent emulsifying and dispersing properties with
properties with sustained low-foam character sustained low-foam character throughout heating,
throughout heating, cooling and rinsing cycles cooling and rinsing cycles in the preparation of cotton
in the preparation of cotton Concentrated product for uniform extraction of oils
Concentrated product for uniform extraction of and waxes at low levels of application
Possesses very high detergent action that ensures
oils and waxes at low levels of application
rapid removal of synthetic sizing agents and spinning
Eliminates the need for defoamers/antifoams that oils from polyester and polyamide-based fabrics
are generally temperature-sensitive and tend to Extremely high primary biodegradability and bio
disintegrate under high-turbulence conditions eliminability
Stable to hard water, acids, oxidising agents and Stable to hard water, acids, oxidising agents and
caustic under normal processing conditions caustic under normal processing condition.
Stripping: Destroying or removing the dye or finish Sizing: A process in which warp yarns are sized during
from a fibre. transfer from warper’s beams to loom beams. Two or
more size boxes may be used in parallel and/or in
Size: A gelatinous film-forming substance, in tandem if the warp sheet is too dense for effective
solution or dispersion, applied normally to warps sizing in one box; or if it contains yarns with different
but sometimes to wefts, generally before weaving. fugitive tints. Slasher sizing is also known as slashing.
Note 1: The main types are carbohydrates and their
derivatives, gelatin, and animal glues, although other Slashing: See sizing
substances, such as linseed oil, poly (acrylic acid), and poly
Substantivity: The attraction between a substrate and
(vinyl alcohol) are also used.
a dye or other substrate under the precise conditions
Note 2: The objectives of sizing prior to weaving are to protect
of a test, whereby the latter is selectively extracted
the yarns from abrasion in healds and reed and against each from the application medium by the substrate.
other; to strengthen them; and by the addition of oils and
fats, to lubricate them. Surfactant/surface active agent: An agent, soluble or
Note 3: A size may be applied to carpets (eg: starch) and dispersible in a liquid, which reduces the surface
occasionally to wool fabrics (eg: animal glue). tension of the liquid.
The RESILIENT 37
Through the Industry
38 The RESILIENT
‘Discover with Resil’ Launched in Bangalore
Friday, 15 December 2006, was an exciting day for Resil Marketing Director, and Suzanne Powell, Technical
and its customers. It saw the launch of the first Director of Celessence, elaborated on the remarkable
programme in the Discover with Resil series, an technology that evolved from the in-depth study of
umbrella concept with awareness meets, training how smell can positively affect moods and thereby,
programmes, tag programmes, etc, to empower textile consumer perceptions towards fabric.
brands, both in terms of aesthetics and economics.
Unidyne’s technical team member Ryosuke Hara,
The Bangalore event was backed by Resil’s business then went on to explain the amazing technology
associates: Celessence, textile division of the renowned behind water- and oil- repellency in Daikin-treated
International Flavours and Fragrances (IFF), UK; and fabrics. His talk ended with an awe-inspiring
Unidyne, a division of Daikin, world leaders in demonstration: water splashed on his clothes. But
Fluorocarbon Manufacturing. before the audience could even digest the fact, the
water simply rolled down, leaving his suit as dry as
The Seasons Hall, Hotel Royal Orchid, in Bangalore before. Ample proof of the stain preventive power
was all spruced up to receive the guests at 7:30 pm. of Daikin-treated fabric.
A formal introduction to Resil and the ‘Discover’
themes, and the programme had begun. Show reels From there, the audience was invited for a more
capturing this initiative and that of Resil’s tagline personal experience of the Celessence and Daikin
‘Because fabric has feelings’ received a warm response technologies through the T-shirts. Lavender perfumed,
from the audience. plum coloured T-shirts and water-repellent black
T-shirts were lapped up with great enthusiasm.
The Chief Speaker for the evening, eminent
academician, Professor Dr Teli, HOD of University However, the highlight of the evening was an exciting
Institute of Chemical Technology (UICT), Mumbai, introduction to the ‘Discover with Resil’ programme
next held the audience’s attention with his speech. by Jayant Khera, Head - Business Development Group,
He briefly spoke on the booming opportunities in Resil. The presentation was preceded by a small,
the textile sector and how textile brands, finishing entertaining video on fabrics and feelings, a key theme
experts, buying houses could attract potential at Resil.
customers if only they worked in sync.
The presentations were followed by highly-interactive
Dr Teli also stressed on the importance of educational sessions in each of the four stalls set up at the venue.
institutes and the industry coming together to explore Apart from Celessence and Daikin, Resil’s expertise in
research and technology trends. Continuing, the finishing, particularly garment finishing, captured the
Professor commended Resil’s efforts in developing viewers’ attention. The third stall reading ‘Discover with
customised training programmes for both students and Resil’ soon transformed into a Consultancy Corner on
professionals under the ‘Discover …’ initiative, enabling finishing and application - Resil’s dual strengths since
them to meet the demands of a growing industry. The inception. A reasonable flow of queries also came in at
potential is immense and we need to exploit it, was his the last stall featuring Ultrafresh-treated fabrics, world
conclusion. leaders for antimicrobial solutions.
From there, the programme moved onto power- With cocktails, music, a sumptuous banquet and
packed presentations from Celessence and Daikin’s cheerful banter, the evening was a perfect blend of
representatives. Shibani Mohindra, Sales and business and fun.
The RESILIENT 39
Kaleidoscope
Book Review
Sandeep Nanu
Hello,
can you hear me?!! Sharath Raghavan
Something has changed. We old timers can feel it in my LAPTOP via INFRARED.’ Can you imagine the
the very air that we breathe. If you’re wondering what pure physical strain of walking around with this much
it is, here is a wild guess. It’s probably RF energy. equipment all the time? Frightening!
The stuff that whizzes about in space, mysteriously
carrying our voices from one corner of the world to the The ‘I hate cell phones’ guy: He walks around with
other. Yes, I am talking about the all prevailing the oldest, most cumbersome phone that he can find.
‘cell phone’. The cell phone has taken over our lives, The fact is he is too stingy to buy a decent phone.
hasn’t it? All our conversations are either on it or about He just doesn’t want to say it.
it. We can love it, hate it, curse it, use it, not use it,
leave it off, on vibrator, silent... but we can’t ignore it. The ringtones/caller tunes man: It doesn’t matter what
phone he has; he always has the most current and most
You go to a movie theatre to watch the new James irritating ring tone/caller tune possible. Entire
Bond movie. You’re waiting for the new James to say companies work to develop content for this kind of a
“My name is Bond... James Bond,” for the first time; phone user.
at the exact moment when he does, some idiot’s phone
starts playing the latest downloaded ring tone from the The loud talker: Mostly found standing under a board
worst movie of the year ‘Jhumri thalaya ka majnoo’. that says ‘silence please’, like in the ICU wards of
Look at Hindi movies. The entire cast of Dhoom 2 hospitals, movie theatres, auditoriums, etc. They
apparently uses Sony Ericsson phones. A little specialise in waking up babies who have just been put
farfetched don’t you think? What are they saying? to sleep by their mothers and scaring domestic animals.
That the best phone to use while the entire police force
of the country is hunting for you is a Sony? The ‘I am too important to put it on silent’ person:
To be found in conference rooms across corporate India.
There are many types of phone users. The most obvious Never puts his phone on silent because of the off chance
ones are: that the Prime Minister might call him to ask about a
matter of utmost national urgency. Dr Singh - please
The gadget freak: These people change phones with call him now. And spare us the agony!
the same frequency that the rest of us change shirts.
They won’t be caught dead with the same phone twice There was this funny story doing the rounds on the
in the same week. They are also wired from head to Internet. Somebody was having a hot torrid affair.
toe. Their arsenal include bluetooth headsets, iPods, One day, his wife called in an absolute panic while
Blackberries, PDAs and any other combination of he was with his girlfriend and asked him “Where are
letters that you can think of. If you can’t afford all these you? Are you okay? My god, I was so frightened.”
and still want to appear cool, you just need to talk the He said “At the office darling. Why, what’s wrong?”
talk. I heard someone actually say this: She slammed the phone down on him. The day was
‘I BLUETOOTHED a song from my PDA to my iPod September 11, 2001. He worked at the World Trade
while POP-ing my E-MAIL to my BLACKBERRY from Center, New York.
The RESILIENT 41