1

"Give Them A Real Scare This Halloween"

Joseph Pfeiffer

Haunted House Ideas

This chapter is dedicated to both the curious and to anyone ambitious enough
to develop a haunted attraction at their home or a school. As with the chapters
for trick-or-treaters and the chapter on parties, this chapter is divided into two
sections. The first section describes various illusions used in haunted attractions.
The second section discusses a variety of layout scene ideas.

We realize that most of the tricks in this section are more advanced than the
average person will attempt. However, we hope that as you learn the techniques
behind these tricks, you call upon your imagination, and design a simpler version
that better fits your resources. Consider what kinds of things frighten people?
Maybe a piece of large machinery that could be designed to look like it was about
to crush the patrons. Possibly a large bird swooping down, hands crawling by
themselves, large insects creeping down a wall, a person on a rotisserie stake
over an oven, an old woman in a wheelchair elevator flying down a flight of stairs
at you, or many others. The secret is to learn to use your creativity from two
perspectives. What scares people or catches them by surprise, and how can that
sensation be built into an illusion? It certainly gets easier with experience, but
the greatest reward is the benefit you'll reap by learning how to routinely use
your creativity in finding solutions to new challenges.

This chapter should give you plenty of ideas to get started. The tricks and
illusions require far less preparation than do complete layout scenes, so if you
just want to have a little fun, skip the scenes, and just set your favorite tricks. As
you gain experience in constructing these tricks, learn more about the special
effects, and discover the tricks available for purchase, you'll be designing hybrid
tricks of your own. It's like working a crossword puzzle, you start to develop a
talent for it.
 2

The Maze:

The maze is best suited for situations where there is an abundance of space.
We provide a sample floor plan, but refer to a children's maze puzzle book to find
other simple wall patterns. Tricks that can be played on those attempting to pass
through the maze include:

 Characters costumed in dark robes with ugly make-up, vampires, werewolves, etc.
lurking in corners (avoid latex masks since visibility is limited and they get hot to wear
for extended periods). The actors can approach the guests, but should try to avoid
physical contact to prevent injury.
 Strobe lighting adds to the tension and confusion.
 Keep the wall patterns the same. Many people just use black plastic sheeting.
 Have maniacal laughter playing as background sound.
 Use a fog machine to increase the challenge of passage.
 Have emergency lighting and signage in case of emergency.
 Build walls securely enough to withstand the crowds' prodding.
 3

Surprise Trunk - Spring-Board Head

This trick utilizes a prop head that triggers to life upon opening the trunk. The trick
requires you to have an old trunk (found at garage sales, flea markets, import shops,
second-hand stores, or attics). You'll also need a nasty looking head prop. The most
effective choice would be to use a corpse or skeleton head prop that also has the
shoulder attached. You can also use a plastic skull model or Styrofoam wig stand with a
mask.
 4

To build the device pictured you’ll need a 12" section of 1" or larger dowel rod and a
section of 1.5" PVC pipe 14" long (or enough to stand the head completely out of the
trunk once the lid is opened). You’ll also need an 18” section of 2"x12" board, one 6"
section of 2"x12" board, (2) sections of 2" x 4" x 4" board, (2) 2" x 4" x 3" sections of
board, a latch clasp used with a pad lock, a 1.5" PVC "T" fitting, and a wide rubber band
about 5"-6" long.The PVC pipe connects the head to the "T" fitting. The dowel rod is used
to hinge the PVC pipe to the base supported by side bracket blocks. The end brace board
connects the rubber band to the PVC pipe to act like a spring. See diagram for
construction details.The head is latched down in the spring set position, with the unit
resting on the floor inside the trunk. The lock pin is inserted and the other end clipped to
the inside of the lid. This can only be set when the lid is almost closed, since the string is
just long enough to reach so the pin is released when the lid is fully opened. Pulling out
the pin pops the latch open (from upward force of PVC pipe), and the head pops out of
the trunk.

This device can also be mounted to a wall or door with a window.

A similar effect can be achieved by building a dummy that swings open window
shutters and pops out at guests as they pass in a hallway. The dummy has fake hands
and arms attached to the inside door handles, a stuffed torso, and a wig stand with full
head mask or fake severed head. The mechanism is operated from behind the figure by
a helper.
 5

Mysterious Transformation Chamber:

This is an illusion used for many years in

carnivals and State Fair midway shows.The
concept is to transform one figure into
another figure right before your eyes. The
illusion can be used with a variety of
subjects; vampire to a bat, man to a corpse
or skeleton, attractive woman to a witch or
animal. The technique is simple, but these
ground rules must be followed to establish a
realistic illusion:

 The two rooms (see drawing) must be

decorated identically, so the fewer the props
and simpler the wall no patterns, the easier it
is to reproduce.
 The rooms must be square and of the same
dimensions. They should have walls no less
than 4' and no longer than 12' for best effect.
 The figures should be positioned identically in each room.
 Lighting is controlled by rheostat or dimmer switches and adjusted to diminish in the
room with the first figure at the same pace, and level as the light in the second room is
increased, creating a morphing illusion. Perform this fairly quickly, so as not to give
things away.
 When using regular glass plate, use lower watt lighting (40-60), when using 2-way
mirrored glass or screened glass use a brighter light (100-150 watt) in the room the
first subject is in. Also, have the mirrored side of the glass facing the audience.
 Practice until the desired effect is achieved.
 The room lighting is above the front of the room, facing
into the room, and shining onto the figures. This gives
the best effect.

A similar illusion can also be performed in a simpler

arrangement by using a two way mirror with the audience
looking at their reflection or an image screened onto the glass,
and then have the lighting come up on the other side to show
a ghoul, monster, skeleton, etc. Use a wall mirror, framed
picture, or full-length mirror. Make sure the light level on the
backside is not too bright. You want the audience to still see
their own reflection. This illusion makes it look like someone or
something is behind them. The room on the opposite side of
the glass should be fairly narrow, and draped in black (plastic
sheeting or fabric or painted). The morphing effect can be used
for small wall mirrors with costumed helpers on the opposite
side that can mimic the on-looking guest as the lights from behind come up.
 6

Endless Hallway

As you can see in the drawing, this hallway is a

good addition to any maze, or great to just occupy a
hallway between rooms. Mirrors positioned at a 45°
angle will not reflect the person's image in the
hallway, ceiling and walls are black with white
stripes, and the floor is some dark color.

Camouflage Room

Decorating all four walls of a

room in a single pattern, like white
dots on black, small stripes or any
design creates this illusion. The room
is lit with flashing strobe lights, and
there are loud background sounds
playing (screaming, moans, etc).
Then position a character dressed
entirely in the wall pattern against a
wall. As the patrons pass through the
room the character sneaks up on
them with short quick moves to
match the strobe rate. This can also
be done with a jungle or forest scene.
The trick is to match costume with
background pattern, and movements
with strobe light speed.
 7

Body Parts Illusion

This trick has been

discussed throughout the book
in differing variations, but it
uses the same props and
techniques.You need to get a
4'x8' by 1" or thicker sheet of
plywood and two saw horses,
or an old table that you no
longer need that is at least 72"
long and 40" wide. The trick is
just as you would imagine. Cut
holes into the top of the table
or boards to allow the character
to fit whichever real parts are
to be exposed or hidden
(depending on whether the
person lies on top of the table
or underneath the table - lying
on a hidden shelf).This is
usually the head and possibly
one or all of the limbs. If you
only wish to expose a head or
hand, use a smaller table. In
either case, use a white cloth
with bloodstains. Cut holes in
the cloth which correspond to
those in the table. The moving
of the live parts and the moans
to add to the effect.
 8

Pendulum Torture Table

illusion props as above with the

torso of the body as the prop to
be cut. For safety, fabricate the
blade from painted cardboard
or Styrofoam. Use 1" PVC pipe
conduit for the pole swinging
the blade. The swinging hinge
can be fabricated in a variety of
ways. Glue a tight-fitting end-
cap with a screw eye in the
middle into the ceiling end of
the PVC pipe. The ceiling
assembly should have two
In this trick the head, arms, braces with holes for a pin to
and legs stick up out of the slide through both side brackets
holes with the character's and the screw eye in the end
bottom resting on the hidden cap. The swinging action can be
shelf. Use the same type either motorized or maintained
by a helper.

Strobe lights add an eerie effect. Also, place around the scene, plenty of
skulls, bones, rats, and large spiders with webs. Make the backdrop look like gray
stone block. Lighting with a lamp oil yard torch also adds to the crude
atmosphere.

Phony Portrait
 9

Get an old portrait painting, or have an art student paint

up a quickie. Buy a set of fake eyes (see Chapter 7). Make a
pivoting device and attach it to a motor (like the type used
in inexpensive motorized animated Christmas decorations).
Then, cut out the portrait eyes and mount this device
behind the painting so the eyes seem to slowly shift back
and fourth. You can position fixed eyes as pictured.

An additional approach is to have the portrait silk

screened onto a lightweight fabric or glass, and then illuminate a hideous face
from behind the portrait. Alternatively, project a changing image onto a blank
picture frame.

Illusion of Fire

This illusion uses an air-blowing device like a small fan, or hair dryer,
irregularly cut strips of red, orange, and yellow satin fabric, foil, or cellophane,
and red, blue, and orange lighting.
 10

Cut irregular flame strips that can be hot-melt glued to cross-sections of

wood cut from 1"x 1/4" stock. These wood sections are then built into a frame
consisting of 3-6 rows to give a three dimensional effect to the flames.
Depending on where you want the fire to come from, the rack is mounted in such
a way to allow a small fan or hair dryers positioned to be blowing from
underneath to create the flapping movement of the lighted fabric strips
resembling flames. The colored lights add to the realism. Practice positioning the
lights and fan until the desired effect is achieved. This illusion looks best from a
distance of at least 20'. Even when designing a single one row of fabric
configuration, the effect can still be somewhat realistic. Use burning sound effects
to drowned-out the noise of the fan. Cut the flame strips with much longer flames
for a varied 3D look.

Creature with Human Head or Floating Head

Perform this effect with a mirror to hide the

lower body of the character. Make a prop table or
chair with the mirror positioned at a 45° angle to
reflect the floor or chair seat surface. Place the
body behind it. The background behind the head
 11

must match that of the floor or seat pattern reflected by the mirror. Attach the
prop of the creature’s body (a bat or spider) to a board that is positioned at a 45°
angle above the head. Position a mirror at a 45° angle below the head to reflect a
floor pattern that must match the backdrop. For support, and to add effect, build
the scene is in a small cage.

Use the same trick is used to float a head. These can be great illusions when
properly designed and lighted.

Crazy Room Effects

In this trick the tilted floor requires a sub

floor and ceiling that are booth positioned
parallel to each other. This is best suited for
areas with limited square footage of floor
space, like a hallway. Keep the angle no more
than 20 degrees, and be sure to paper and
decorate the walls in a 90°angle to the floor to
create the illusion. With the furniture on the
wall or ceiling, the illusion is to make the
patrons walk through the room passing around
ceiling fans, lights, pictures, doors, etc. The
more detail props you can add like nick-knacks on table tops, clocks, paintings,
etc., the better the effect. There are illusion designs to make people of the same
size look very different. This is done by creating unusual floor and wall angles,
use a browser key word search on "illusion".
 12

You may want to add another dimension by making a chair rock by itself.
Secure the chair to the ceiling with a hinge assembly similar to the one described
for the pendulum attached at the center of each of the chair’s rocker blades. Use
a small motor and some light test fishing line to make a chair rock by itself.

Get a clock, remove the works, and with an electric motor run the shaft into
the face of the clock, attach the hands, and operate the motor to rotate the
hands counterclockwise at a much faster speed than clocks normally run. Get the
motor from a small electronics shop like Radio Shack ®.

Another effect is to create a falling room

or elevator by positioning brick or wall
surfaces on a roller device by the windows
of the room or elevator, using small motors,
or a crank to spin the rolls at high speed. If
making an elevator, position it on rollers or
large springs in the corners to create
movement effects.

Also make fake

walls on wheels to roll
in as if the walls will
crush guests, flicker
lighting or strobe
lights for additional effect.

High-Tech Surveillance

The effect here is to have a ghoulish ghost greet your

guests via what appears to be videotape. However, the host
mysteriously has the ability to interact with his guests.

Place a TV (13”-19”)
in a haunted room. Have it connected to a long camcorder cable in another room.
Make sure the person who will be on the TV can see the guests in the room.
Behind the character being taped use a backdrop or set to be that accommodates
the situation. Script what you want your costumed actor to say. For a spaceship,
 13

layout this may involve the warning of an escaped space specimen. In a haunted
house it may be the visiting spirit of the house's prior owners.

The better the drama of the script, the more effective reaction you get from
the audience. Use other high-tech props like St. Elmo’s fire (use caution when
using electricity). Or, fill a small, round, lighted aquarium with colored water and
strange alien body parts (use some unusual rubber creature toy), add air filter for
bubbles effect.

Haunted Mansion Effects

There are several tricks used in the Haunted

Mansion of a popular theme park that we'll quickly
discuss. Make shrieking heads that pop up for a split
second. Attached small ghastly molded heads to a
rod about 24" long, with the base and pressured air
valve that performs two functions. When a blast of
compressed air is piped through a hose to the valve,
it creates a loud shriek, and shoots the head up the
rod. Since the air blast is so brief, the head quickly
drops back out of sight. Paint the head is in ghostly fluorescent colors, and
illuminated with UV light.

Another trick is used for the portrait in the parlor entrance,

the crystal ball with a woman's animated head inside, a small
ghostly image of a woman giving a warning at the end, and the
ghoulish animated faces of several inverted busts who are singing
in base tone voices to passing guests. These are images that can
be projected onto the objects from a hidden VCR projector. You
 14

can perform this by projecting the image onto a Styrofoam wig stand, a faceless
bust or dummy, or any flat light-colored surface from a hidden video projector
position overhead and behind the guest, playing a prerecorded tape on a VCR.
Use your camcorder to tape just your face or head, masking the remaining
background in black felt (cut hole for head or face).

The ghosts that appear to be seated in your car are actually seen through a
reflection in a darkened glass window panel. This effect can be created using the
same type of lighting techniques described above with the transformation rooms
trick.

Our friend trying to escape the coffin can be made

with some plastic prop skeleton hands being pivoted up
and down on a mechanized rotating rod assembly. You
could also power the hands with the compressed air
tracked on rods like the popping heads. If you add a
person experienced with mechanical devices and
movement, and they have a good imagination, you'll be
amazed at what they can fabricate at fairly reasonable
prices.

The bending, breathing doors can be made of foam rubber treated

with latex paint to resemble wood grain, with a rotating mechanized
device attached to the backside of the door to create the bowing
motion. Many of these effects can be easily recreated when using prop
builders familiar with available materials and mechanized devices used
in the trade.

Impaled and Lovin' It

Attaching an impaled corpse to the wall is just okay until you add a little life
to it. Hide a small speaker behind the body out of sight, and attach some fine
fishing line to the lower jaw. You could even rig up movable glass eyeballs if you
really want to spook them. Then hide the actor operating the "Dead Ventriloquist
dummy" behind the wall, and get ready for some fun. If you can make small
unnoticeable holes, or position a mini video camera to allow the operator to view
 15

patrons on a monitor inside the wall a more personalized assault can be made.
Have thunder sound effects and lightening from a strobe start the performance
off. Great to keep crowds entertained while waiting in line.

How About a Little Snack

In this scare you simply position an old refrigerator in an otherwise empty

room. Leave the door slightly open (do this by tilting the refrigerator back slightly
so the door closes itself, but install a doorstop inside that keeps door open about
1"). Have a light on inside the refrigerator with no other lights on in the room
other than a single 48" UV tube to illuminate a white sign that reads, "Open for
your treat". Inside the refrigerator have a few cobwebs, the bones of a rack of
ribs on an old dirty plate, and a dead rat lying next to the ribs. Have a character
dressed in all black lurking in the shadows to step out and grab the shoulder of
whomever opens the door, while shouting, "Hey, git outa there mortal."

It's For You

Have a phone in a room ring. When a patron picks it up have a hidden hose
from an air compressor spray them with a sharp burst of air (not in the face).
Then simultaneously have a loud sound effect like a truck air horn or amplified
scream blare out at the victim. A strobe light may also come on to add to the
confusion.

Sparks Anyone
 16

In this scare a heavy metal screen mesh is nailed to the indoor frame over a
window. Connect a ground cable between the ground terminal of a charged car
battery and the screen. Attach a second cable to the positive terminal of the car
battery and the other end of the cable is connected to a metal rod or clamp.
Jumper cables can also be used. A costumed character hides behind the old
drapes of the window either dressed in all black, or as a rotting corpse. When a
patron passes by the window the character scrapes the rod or jumper cable
clamp across the screen sending out a surprise shower of sparks from the screen.
Use the loud sound effect of a boom to add to the scare. User wears heavy
rubber gloves.

Flash News Report

Have a living room scene with an old 25" screen TV playing and no one else
in the room. The TV provides the only light, and it is playing a VHS tape (from a
hidden VCR) made earlier of a television show being interrupted by a special
news flash. The news announcer claims they are reporting live at the scene of a
haunted house where police have tracked down a psychotic serial murderer. The
announcer continues by saying the police report there is still a small group of
patrons inside unaware of the situation. The murderer is inside the house with
them armed with a large knife that he just used to stab a convenience store
employee. Then an actor in a prison costume brandishing a large knife jumps out
 17

from behind the couch lunging at the patrons with one manic scream. Turn on a
strobe light to make the situation even more frightening.

Corpse in Bed

In a tattered unmade bed have a character dressed in a skeleton costume

lying perfectly still in an awkward pose to look like a prop. The room is only lit by
4' UV fluorescent tubes. Just as the group is leaving the lights go out, then a
strobe comes on and the character bounds out of bed toward the patrons rattling
a can filled with small rocks on a short stick or sounding a canister air horn.

Final Ideas

Try a coffin with a hinged back panel, positioned against a

fake wall with a secret opening that the coffin back opens into.
Attach a skeleton to the back, so when it's opened a costumed
figure can take its place using a curtain matching the material
of the coffin to cover the opening. The guests enter, and the
coffin is open with a wooden stake in the ribs. The tour guide
pulls it out to show the guests. The lid of the coffin quickly
shuts by itself (rig a fine line), and quickly reopens with a
costumed vampire or corpse returned to life. He then leaves
the coffin moving out into the guests.

Also you can use three coffins or mummies tombs, two

contain props, one with live costumed helper. For added effect
have your hidden helper animate parts of the prop figures like a hand twitch, or
an arm, foot or leg shift. The narrator walks over to each telling a sordid story
about each body swatting the prop with a hard whip from a cane, until he gets to
the live corpse that grabs the cane, and comes after the group.
 18

"Give Them A Real Scare This Halloween"

Joseph Pfeiffer

Build Your Own Corpse or Dummy

While describing the steps and options necessary for the construction of your
corpse, we segment our discussion into the head, hands and feet, and body. We
feel obligated to mention that grave robbing is a crime in all states.

Your first step is to locate the outfit this corpse is going to be laid to rest in.
Male or female, most people are buried in more formal attire. This includes dark
colored suites, dresses, etc. Accident victims are another story. Just make up
your mind, so you can begin construction. You must select the outfit first,
because we’re going to custom build the corpse to fit the clothes, like they build a
coffin to fit the body.

A quick note before moving ahead. Go to second hand shops, flea markets,
garage sales, church bazaars, accident scenes, mortuaries, or your relatives
clothes closet on the next family visit to obtain the outfit for your "body-to-be."
You can even borrow your buddy's driver's license for ID, and go to a formal wear
rental shop. You probably have something tucked in the back of your own closet
that you could use that is if you want this layout to be a comedy.

Jerry Chavez, author of , "Haunted House Halloween Handbook" had a web

page at members.aol.com/spookyfx/index.html in which he describes how to
build a corpse out of a cheap $10 plastic life-size skeleton, and supplies that are
inexpensive and easy to find. Write me if you can’t find it. Oh yes, if anyone asks
what you're reading, you can inform them that you're reading a book on "Body
Building"!

Heads: Your choices here are to buy a prop head, build a prop head as
described on the previous page, or use a mask to fabricate a head.
 19

Making a Head

To buy a prop head visit our resource chapter and review vendor web sites
and catalogs. To build a prop head takes a little time, and can become expensive
when building just one due to the expense of the materials in small quantities.
The advantages of building vs. buying include developing the skills to build and
design unique props unavailable at stores. This will significantly add to the effect
and realism of your haunt once you improve your talents to produce authentic
looking props. Our discussion will center on the use of latex, since it is pliable,
lightweight, and looks the most realistic. Realize that once you develop these
skills you will almost be qualified to perform plastic surgery.

Here’s what to do:

1. You need to find a base to use to mold the latex around. Your best choices are either a
Styrofoam wig stand, or build a life-sized plastic model of a human head or skull. You
could even make a good papier mache life-sized model of a head, though this does
require more artistic skills, and prior experience.
2. If you plan to add eyeballs or teeth, glue these in before applying latex, so you can
model around them to cover gaps, and make it look more realistic. Eyes and teeth can
be purchased at any Halloween prop, Novelty, or Magic & Joke store. Glass eyeballs
cost about $20-$30 each, but look great. Teeth can be bought from vendors listed in
the resource chapter and through web site browsing. Bucky Teeth© look realistic and
come in a variety of styles. Also, check in that glass on the nightstand next to
grandma's bed. You could even make eyeballs and teeth for those who are creatively
artistic. Eyeballs can be painted on Ping-Pong ball halves.
3. If you are using a wig stand or a model without the seven standard head orifices, you
may want to either carve them or drill them out (nose, ears, eye sockets and mouth).
Nothing more humiliating than to have some kid notice that your corpse is without
orifices.
4. The next step is to purchase about a quart can of liquid latex from an art supply store,
then start painting on the first layer of latex over the head. If you want to build up
areas that aren't already part of your foundation model, use nose putty, body putty,
etc. before applying the latex. This might include noses, ears, lips, or areas around and
under the chin when using a skull model. You can also buy these facial accessories, and
glue them on with rubber cement, shoe glue, or other rubber adhesive.
5. Once the first coat of latex has dried, begin painting on
a second coat. Add little pieces of cotton, clay, or
shredded papier mache in with the second third and
fourth layers of latex to add a decaying texture. To mix
paper mache; add 1 cup of flour to 1 - 1.5 cups of water
(depending on desired texture), 1-2 teaspoons of salt,
and optional 1-4 tablespoons of carpenter's wood glue
for additional durability.
 20

6. Continue to add coats by painting on liquid latex mixture until the desired look is
achieved. Avoid applying applications too thickly, resulting in the loss of definition and
detail, and for heaven sakes, don't over paint and block your orifices. A nice effect is to
build up veins with nose putty that will later be painted a dark blue. Also, build several
large ugly moles too.
7. Once the final coat of latex has dried (allow about three days),
begin to apply latex paint (available at an art supply store, but be
sure to tell the store clerk for what you plan to use the paint).
Begin painting with the lightest tone base color. Depending on
the desired degree of decay, the lighter the color, the fresher the
corpse. Colors might start with a white or pale yellow/green and
work through the spectrum to a dark brown. Be sure to mix a
little extra of the base color so you don't run out when you paint
the hands, or to paint over the glue line if you apply any hair. If you don't find latex
paint, mix acrylic paint with the liquid latex, and paint that on. The ratio is four parts
latex to one part paint.
8. After painting the base color, darken it, and paint shadows around eyes and where
there are deep facial lines. When painting a more decayed state skin in a darker color,
no darker shades are needed.
9. Next, paint the lips and any veins a dark blue, then paint eyes
and any teeth an off white or pale yellow. Finally paint totally
shadowed areas like inside mouth, nose holes, ear holes, etc.
black, also finish painting any other areas not yet mentioned.
Allow each color to dry first before painting the next.
10. If you decide to add some hair, buy crepe hair at a
theatrical supply store, cut it to desired length, and glue one
row at a time, in layers, starting at the base of the head,
working upward in rows across the head.

Once the glue is dried, paint the glue line with the base
paint used on the face, move up about a half inch and start
the next row of hair. Continue until you have laid the desired
amount of hair. This takes patience since each row must dry
before moving to the next.

Happy Birthday, your first head

Get creative with the

accessories that can be
attached to the head. Look
around at garage sales and
second hand shops. Model the
face to look just like a neighbor
for additional laughs.
 21

Attaching the Head

Once you've got the head,

you need to insert a rod into
the base of the head used for
attachment to the body. Use
either 1" or 2" wooden dowel
rod, plastic conduit pipe, or
similar PVC pipe. This may
need to be glued in with Shoe
Glue, epoxy glue, hot glue gun,
etc. for increased stability. If
you do this, you can't use the
head independently as a prop.
Leave at least 8"-10" extra rod
out of the base of the neck to
be used for attachment to the
body.
 22

Make Your Own Hands

As with the head, you have several choices here. The most common choice is
to use a pair of gloves. Any kind work, dark or white looks best. Stuff each glove
with cloth, paper, or foam fill to maintain shape. Gloves are hot glued or sewn to
the inside surfaces of the sleeves of the clothes used for the figure.

Another technique is to add the ability to bend and position the fingers. To do
this:

 Simply cut straight sections of heavy wire coat hanger to lengths of about 10" and twist
the five sections needed per hand (one per finger and thumb) at one end, down about
3" from one end, so to give the appearance of a yard rake.
 Now, hold up one of the gloves that you plan to use. Lay the wire frame on top of it
with the twisted ends facing the sleeve. Bend and then trim each piece of wire to match
the shape and length of a finger and thumb of the glove.
 When this is done, take half inch thick sheets of foam rubber that can be purchased at
any fabric store, and cut a strip 3"-4" wide. To cut strip to the proper length, hold the
foam strip up to the wire finger frame finger trip and measure down to where the wires
wrap together in the palm, and cut to length. Experimenting with one finger to
establish necessary dimensions needed to give fingers a natural look.
 Now, wrap the foam snugly around the wire, and then, using either duct tape or cheap
electrical tape, tightly wrap the foam in tape until achieving desired size and shape to
match a normal finger or thumb.
 Once you decide the amount of foam needed to form a natural finger and thumb width,
cut remaining pieces of foam. Use only two to three total wraps of tape around the
foam to avoid wasting tape. Perform the same procedure to each remaining finger and
thumb. Again, cut enough foam so fingers aren't too thin, and you're forced to
compensate with excessive amounts of tape.
 Slide the glove over each hand, and lay aside for now to await attachment to arm.

Latex Glove Hands

 23


 A final approach involves the use of latex gloves (the variety you can buy as
cleaning gloves, not those worn by doctors). Again, follow the steps described
above. Slide the foam wrapped wire frame into the glove, and paint to match
head. For an added touch, buy a set of fake fingernails from a Halloween prop,
costume, theatrical supplies, or any other store selling beauty or Halloween
supplies. Securely glue these on with spirit gum or any glue that works well with
rubber. Paint the hands with the same latex paint used for the head, paint the
nails a dark blue. Use a black permanent marker to draw wrinkles on the fingers.

Buy Costume Hands

Another technique is to follow all the steps just listed, but instead of a pair of
gloves, use a pair of latex costume hands, the thicker the latex the better. There
are a wide assortment of style and colors, but try to find some that look like
corpse hands. They range $5-$65. These can then be painted to match the head
with the latex paint used when painting the head. Stuff for shape, and glue cloth
or plastic over the ends to retain stuffing.

Buy Prop Hands

A third approach is to buy prop latex hands ($10-$20 each). You can simply
cut sections of coat wire to length, and insert each down to the fingertips from
the end of the wrist to provide for fingers to be posed. If the prop's hands aren't
foam filled, add foam fiberfill or newsprint in from the wrist, until natural shape is
achieved. These too can be painted with the latex paint to match the facial color.
You can also buy head and hands together that match. When buying prop hands
individually, check to see that you can get both a left and right hands. Also,
skeleton hands are available, and give a creepy look, just be sure to get both left
and right.

Make Feet Using Socks or Hose

 24

Use socks or hose stuffed with foam rubber fiber fill, packed tightly, and
formed to a natural shape all the way up past the ankle by about 2"-3". Insert a
1"-2" diameter dowel rod cut to about 10." One end rests in the heal, and the
other end sticks out of the neck of the sock to attach to the leg. Secure the ankle
opening of the sock around the rod using a rubber band, and then seal sock
around dowel rod with a hot glue gun to keep the foam filler inside. The sock can
then be hot glued into a shoe or boot, or left like some "Flake" at the mortuary
just forgot to put the shoes on. It's hard to find reliable help these days.

Purchase Latex Feet

Another approach is to purchase latex prop feet for a more realistic look. This
will add to the costs ($10-$70 each), and once again, be sure to buy or order left
and right feet. There are a variety phony feet to choose from, some attached to
the calve of the leg, some gory. You can also paint these the color of the hands
and face, but don't forget to paint those nasty nails black. Don't use socks or
shoes when you go to the expense and effort to provide the detail of real feet.

Buy Skeleton Feet

A final option is to buy skeleton feet. Again, be sure to get opposing feet or
you may find this corpse constantly walking in circles.
 25

Realize that sometimes you can avoid the feet and hands altogether. This is
particularly true when building a corpse wearing an old suit. The sleeves and
cuffs are tattered, and give the appearance that the hands and feet simply fell
off. Scare Factory builds a prop called the Corpselator ®, which includes a corpse
in a coffin (without hands or feet) that jumps out about 6' on an actuator.

Building the Body

When fabricating the body, once again, there are many options. The main
component will be a frame built to support the head, hands, and feet. This frame
can be built out of a variety of materials, but for our example we suggest using a
2"x4" board for the torso, and PVC pipe for the arms and legs. We recommend
 26

that you read through these simple step-by-step instructions once completely,
then again to make your list of supplies to buy. You may decide to use another
technique to construct a certain component
based on available supplies at your local
hardware or building supplies store. There are
countless alternatives, so be creative and
practical, but frugal.

The frame will consist of blouse you plan to use down onto a
one piece of wood for the table, and measure from left shoulder
shoulders, two pieces tip to the right shoulder tip, then
connecting the pelvis or hip subtract 2" for joints.
board, and one piece for the  The board will have the corners
pelvis. The arms and legs will trimmed to narrow at the shoulder
be made of jointed 1.5" PVC tips for a more natural look. Also, a
pipe (2" PVC pipe for the thigh hole the size of the neck rod used to
or femur bone). support the head must be drilled in
the center of the board (see
 The first step is to measure the illustration).
clothes that will be used to dress this
thing. For the shoulder cross board,
cut a 2"x4" section between 15"-20,"
depending on the size clothes you
plan to dress the corpse in. To get
specific measurement, lay shirt or

 For the Hip cross board, measure across the hips of the pants, and subtract only 1".
This measurement will probably be between 10" - 16" (remember there is no such
thing as a fat butt corpse). As with the shoulder board, the hip board will also have
corners trimmed. Sideboards are optional, but can help improve shape. (See drawing).
 27

 Two boards will be used to connect the shoulder board and the hip board. Again, to
determine this length, lay the clothes down on a table, and measure from the shoulders
down to the hips (18" - 26"). Nail the two body boards between the shoulder and hip
boards.
 The ends of the shoulder board and hip board will have 1" screw eyes inserted to
provide for the arms and legs
connections.
 It's optional how you decide to add bulk
to the body, or if you even need to. We
suggest that you finish the arms and
legs, connect them, dress the frame, and
then decide if the chest cavity needs
more shape. If you decide it does, you
can use several different materials. One
option is to use a heavy duty black
plastic trash bag filled with enough
Styrofoam shipping chips, foam rubber
fiber fill, newsprint, etc. until desired
shape is achieved. Use duct tape to
attach bags to wooden frame.
 Another option is to use a screening or
wire mesh or chicken wire, all available
at a building supplies store. Wrap and
shape around the wooden frame.
 Another method is to use one half to
one-inch foam rubber sheets that can be
purchased at a fabric store. Simply cut
sections and wrap it around frame
sections until desired shape is achieved.
Fasten with duct tape, staple gun, or hot
glue gun. You can also use thicker
sections of foam rubber cut to specific
shape and hot glued into position. Buy
this at a furniture upholstery store.
 A final method is to build up the chest by
taping layers of rags or newsprint using
duct tape to the wooden frame. The
objective is to keep materials lightweight and cheap. It would be a shame for this thing
to be hanging somewhere in the house, and then have it fall, crashing down one of
your patrons.

Arms and Legs

 28

Again you have many materials and techniques to use here, but we feel the
famous old PVC method is the way to go. It's light and cheap. Working with it
may even lead you to a new career as a plumber. Use a hacksaw to cut it.

You must cut the arms and legs sections to size. Measure the sleeve of the
clothes to be used. Each arm will have two measurements, from the shoulder to
the elbow, and from the elbow to the end of the sleeve. Then subtract 1". This
should range between 8"-14" sections and the two measurements will be within
1" of each other. Copy these cuts for the opposite arm, unless this guy is
supposed to look lopsided.

Make the measurements for the legs, hip to knee, knee to ankle or end of the
pant leg, and copy for the other leg. For dresses, measure your leg, then make
adjustments for any size differences between your size and the clothes being
used. No, this is not an invitation to test cross-dressing guys.

Buy enough PVC to cut into the eight sections of desired lengths. Use 1.5"
PVC pipe for the six sections used for both sections of the arms and lower legs.
Use two sections of 2" PVC pipe for the thighs. For dummies with more bulk,
either wrap these pipes in foam rubber sheeting until desired thickness is
achieved, or buy larger diameter pipe. For simple dummies, just stuff a one-
piece jump suit for the body, and attach stuffed gloves and socks with hot glue
gun or sew on.

Either buy matching diameter PVC end caps, or buy dowel rod to match the
inside diameter of the PVC pipe sections, also buy PVC glue. These end caps will
support the screw eyes used to make the attachments.

You can even cut round pieces of wood that fit tightly into the ends of the
PVC. You can also drill two small 1/4 inch holes through the sides of the PVC pipe
about 3/8-1/2 inch from end of the pipe sections, and use heavy leather lacing
with the section knotted on each end pulled through the pipe. If you use this
approach, be sure to insert the lacing tightly through the pipe.

The next step is to insert 1" screw eyes into the end caps or wood inserts of
each section of PVC. The screw eyes will not be centered, but offset toward the
inside to allow for improved bending of limbs toward the body. (see drawing) Tie
leather lacing (use a double granny knot, or if you're an x-scout, do your own
thing) to join the PVC sections to each other and to the body. There are a variety
of hardware pieces that can be used to also connect the screw eyes, but when
tied properly, the leather lacing provides improved movement, and can be easily
repaired if broken.
 29

Now it's time to dress our little

bambino for the funeral party, so
put on shirt, pants, coats, tie,
dresses, etc., underwear is not
required, unless of course you're
just that kind of person. We wonder
if they actually bury people with
underwear?

If your corpse is a lady in a

dress, use panty hose over the PVC
pipes for the legs, and paint 4-6
layers of latex the color of the face
and hands over the surface. You
can also attach cotton wadding
while applying latex for skin
texture.

Finally, attach the hands and

feet the same way you attached the arms and legs, with leather shoe lacing
through the screw eyes. If needed, make any final cosmetic adjustments by
adding any extra clothing, foam, dirt or tears on clothing, hats, glasses, worms,
etc.

Now, to test how good it turned out, set it up in some dark corner, closet,
bathroom, or where ever your spouse or friend might stumble across it. Oh yes,
you'll also need a spare pillow and blanket to sleep out in the garage tonight.

http://www.hauntworld.com/JPfeiffers_HowTos/Scare_trick-or-treaters.html
 30

15 Steps to Make a Homemade Haunted House

Be the envy of your neighbors this year and create your own haunted house. Remember to set a budget and decide
whether you're targeting kids, teenagers or adults. Or create some of the simpler effects on your front porch and in the front
hall, to lure trick-or-treaters into your House of Horror on Halloween night.

1. Make a diagram for your Halloween haunted house by first measuring the space to make sure you have room to do
everything you want. Decide where you want features from the following list to be placed and where you'll create the
entrance and exit.

2. Design fake and shiver-inducing walls by cutting black garbage bags into thin strips, stopping a few inches before you get
to the top. Hang these walls from the ceiling.

3. Hang black thread in your front entryway to give the effect of walking into invisible cobwebs.

4. Black garbage bags also can be used to cover windows for a purer darkness. Replace standard light bulbs with black or
red lights (found at party stores) to give an eerie effect but make sure people can still see where they're walking.

5. Stretch fake spider webbing across the room and spray it with water to create a particularly creepy experience when
visitors walk through them.

6. Cut out gravestone shapes from large pieces of gray construction paper. Write creative epitaphs on them with a thick
black magic marker, such as "Here lies Polly -- Choked on a cracker" or "Buried Alive?" Tape them near the floor to simulate
real gravestones.

7. Have fun making a tape recording of scary sounds with your friends or family or buy a spooky CD from your local music
store. Set up the speakers so the sounds can be heard throughout the maze. Place extra speakers in a front tree or bushes
to lure in visitors.

8. Buy several Styrofoam heads from a beauty supply store and turn them into ghoulish creatures with makeup, masks and
wigs. You can create different looks by sticking knives into the heads, adding fake bodies and semi-attaching the heads
(don't forget a bloody axe to complete the tale) or by lining them up on a shelf for a story about the serial killer that got away.
Add fake blood and wounds made from the recipes below.

9. Stuff a shirt, suit, socks and shoes (use a DSW free shipping code when you buy your goulish shoes) with newspapers
and position this creature in a dark corner. Top with a lighted jack-o-lantern head.

10. To create an electric chair, put another "stuffed" man or a friend dressed ghoulishly in a high-backed chair and place a
metal noodle strainer on its head with wires running from the strainer. A strobe light aimed at the chair completes the look.

11. Make a bowl of eyeballs by pealing enough large grapes that you can plunge the hands of the unsuspecting deep into
the eyeballs.

12. Create a dead hand by filling a plastic kitchen glove with water and fastening the top of the glove with a rubber band. Fill
a large bowl or punch bowl with cold water dyed red and float the dead hand in it. Make sure to tell visitors a particularly
frightening story about your ancestor who disappeared, leaving behind only this bloody hand.

13. Have a friend hide behind one of the garbage-bag walls to spritz visitor's in the face with ice-cold water as they pass. Tell
them the water is the venom of spitting black-widow spiders. Dress other friends as ghouls, goblins, monsters or the walking
dead to pop out on the unsuspected while waving flashlights in their faces.

14. There's nothing quite as creepy as a bit of fog rolling around your haunted house and dry ice makes an excellent fog
machine. Because dry ice can cause serious injury if it touches bare skin, it's best to leave this part of the project to an adult.

15. For a final thrill, have an adult positioned to jump out wearing a monster or zombie costume as guests are about to
depart.

Don't forget to save some of your decorations for the outside of the house. Drape trees and the front porch with plenty of
cobwebs dotted with plastic spiders. Finally, sprinkle the lawn and porch with carved pumpkins and insert long-lasting
candles.
 31

Haunted houses are very fun, you just have to know how to create them. Here are some tips
for making haunted houses.

Step 1 
Make Plans. Before you even consider to get out to make your haunted house come alive,
you first must conceive it. Sketch a layout and write up a brief but detailed walkthrough of what
guests will experience, as well as how you will pull this scheme off and your special effects and
lighting. Make sure everything is feasible and do not go overboard as you plan. Ask yourself some
of these general questions:Will this house be aimed to scare, or will it joke? Will the general
audience be younger or older? Should I use actors or audio-animatronics?

Step 2 

Make it dark. Do not put a lot of lights in your haunted house, otherwise people will be
relaxed and know what to expect. They will also be able to tell where the actors are. If it is dark,
they will be tense and have a better time. Little strobe lights can add drama and fear, but don't
add to many.

Step 3 
Surprises. In most haunted houses you will be walking with a group or family in front of
you, then an actor will jump out and scare the people in front of you. You will know that the actor
is hiding in a particular spot and expect him as you are following them. Here’s how to fix that:
Have some actors jump out in a particular time but not with all the other actors, then people will
not expect him.

Step 4 
Film and Popular Culture Characters. Always have characters like Jason, Freddy,
Leatherface, Michael Myers etc. That will really scare people. Watch movies so you can get a good
idea of what they wear and look like. You can also get pictures off the internet. However, do not
go overboard: you should also be original.

Step 5 
Use special effects. Try mirrors, black lights, and smoke to confuse the visitors. If
constructing rooms yourself make them oddly shaped (long, narrow, high and low ceilings, walls
at a 45 degree angle to the floor rather than completely vertical.)

Step 6 
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Research Go to other haunted houses for tips on things that you can apply to your haunted
house. If you want, you can ask the people running it. Just be remember to be original.